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u  * 


OUTPOSTS  OF  2ION, 


WITH 


LIMNINGS  OF  MISSION  LIFE. 


BY 


EEY.  WILLIAM  H.e  G^ODE, 

TEN   YEARS   A   MEMBEK   OF    FRONTIEB   CONFEBENCES. 


CINCINNATI: 

PUBLISHED  BY  POE  &  HITCHCOCK 

CORNER  OF  MAIN  AND  EIGHTH  STREETS. 

B.    P.    THOMPSON,    PRINTER. 
1863. 


Gr 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1863, 
BY  POE   &  HITCHCOCK, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the 
Southern  District  of  Ohio. 


Library 
ft,  // 


PEEFAOE 


IN  the  following  pages  I  have  followed  out  a  simple 
train  of  narrative  and  reflection,  depending  partly 
upon  imperfect  journalizing,  but  mainly  upon  personal 
recollections,  as  called  forth  and  aided  by  such  memo- 
randa. Memory,  covering  nearly  a  score  of  years, 
may,  in  some  instances,  have  proven  treacherous  or 
defective;  but  I  feel  assured  that  this  is  seldom,  if 
ever,  the  case  in  any  material  point. 

The  periods  embraced  are  those  spent  by  tlie  writer 
in  actual  frontier  labors.  But  little  matter  is  pre- 
sented aside  from  personal  observation,  and  the  range 
of  personal  knowledge.  The  reader  may  look  for 
nothing  startling  or  extraordinary.  The  aim  has 
been,  in  a  series  of  personal  details,  to  present  a  simple 
and  truthful  view  of  mission  life  upon  our  frontier, 
with  some  of  the  actual  results  of  missionary  labor. 
Incidentally,  and  with  little  effort  at  arrangement,  I 
have  sought  to  give  reliable  facts  as  to  the  history  of 
our  Indian  tribes,  their  country,  character,  condition, 
improvements,  and  the  progress  of  Christianity  among 
them;  also  sketches  of  the  white  settlements  in  our 

western  Territories. 

3 


4  PEEFACE. 

In  the  labor  of  preparation  many  a  lonely  hour 
has  been  beguiled;  many  a  thrilling  recollection  has 
been  stirred;  many  a  tender  chord  of  feeling  has  been 
touched.  Gratitude  to  God  has  been  awakened,  with 
increased  love  to  the  cause  of  missions.  Could  the 
writer  be  assured  that  equal  entertainment,  and  equal 
profit,  would  accrue  to  the  reader,  he  would  be  amply 

repaid. 

THE  AUTHOE. 
GLENWOOD,  1860. 


CONTENTS. 


PART    I. 

LIFE  AND  LABORS  AMONG  SOUTHERN  INDIANS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

CALL    TO    THE    FRONTIER. 

Introduction — Revivals  in  the  North — My  Field — My  Predecessors: 
Armstrong,  Griffith,  Hargrave,  Wood — Christian  Attachments — Sum- 
mons to  the  Frontier — Mental  Conflict — Refusal — Reconsideration — 
Surrender  at  discretion Pages  23-29 

CHAPTER    II. 

TRAVEL FROM  THE  LAKES  GULFWARD. 

The  Outset  —  Logansport  —  Indianapolis  —  Greencastle  —  Revivals — 
Lawrenceburg  —  Cincinnati  —  Sickness  —  Outfit  —  Louisville  —  Steamer 
"Gallant" — Down  the  Ohio — Mississippi — Montgomery's  Point — Cut 
Off — Up  the  Arkansas — Scenery — Early  Settlements — Little  Rock — 
Governor  Yell — Judge  Pascal — Fort  Smith — General  Taylor — Destina- 
tion Reached— Cargo  Landed— First  Night  Out 30-37 

CHAPTER    III. 

CHOCTAW   COUNTRY   AND    PEOPLE. 

Survey  of  Premises — Choctaw  System  of  Education — Liberal  Appro- 
priations— Services  of  Rev.  E.  R.  Ames — Choctaw  People — Their  Lands — 
Chickasaws  among  Them — Description  of  Country — Form  of  Govern- 
ment—  An  Infidel  Party — Our  Home  —  Fort  Coffee  —  Description  of 
Site — Our  Reception — Tribute  to  late  Major  Armstrong — J.  H.  Heald, 

Esq 38-44 

5 


6  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   IV. 

LABORS    AND    INTERCOURSE. 

Duties  of  Superintendent — First  Labors — Freak  of  Arkansas  River — 
Remodeling  a  Fort  —  Developments  of  Soldier  Life  —  Solitariness  — 
Tidings  of  Death — Mental  Exercises — 'Intercourse  with  Natives — Re- 
moval of  Choctaws — Land  Stealing — Improved  Condition — Choctaw 
Character — Language — A  "Maine  Law" — Missionary  Labors — Visit  of 
Bishop  Roberts — Quadroon  Wesley — Choctaw  Conscience Pages  45-53 

CHAPTER   V. 

CHEROKEE    SIDE TRIP   TO    TAH-LE-QUAH. 

Shingling  by  the  Acre — Rev.  II.  C.  Benson  and  Lady — Express  from 
General  Council — Off  for  Council  Ground — Route — Scenery — Delaware 
Guide — Assumed  Superiority — "  Grandfather  "  of  all  the  Indians — In- 
cident of  the  Tribes — Borrowed  Vices — Cherokee  History  and  Char- 
acter— Feuds — Murder  of  the  Ridges — Boudinot — Retaliation — Inter- 
marriages— Illinois  of  the  West — Flood — Detention — Scenery — Hermit- 
age—Park Hill 54-62 

CHAPTER   VI. 

CHEROKEE    LITERATURE — CALL    OF    COUNCIL. 

Park  Hill  Mission — Rev.  S.  A.  Worcester — Rev.  Mr.  Foreman — 
Translations — Spoken  Language — Ludicrous  Mistakes — Invention  of 
Alphabet — George  Guest,  the  Cherokee  Cadmus — Park  Hill  Settlement — 
Vivacity — Female  Equestrianism — Object  of  Council — Slow  Assembling — 
Expensive  Gathering — Camanches — Pawnees — Ex-Governor  Butler — Our 
Arrival 63-68 

CHAPTER   VII. 

THE     GREAT     COUNCIL. 

Description  of  Ground — Costume — Legislative  Leisure — Council  As- 
sembles— Manner  of  Speaking — Prominent  Men — John  Ross — Lowry — 
Bushy-Head — Roly  M'Intosh — Wild  Cat — Wau-bon-sa — Shin-go-was- 
sa— Speech  of  Ross— Of  M'Intosh— Of  Young  Chickasaw 69-76 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

THE   GREAT    COUNCIL,    CONTINUED. 

Sabbath  Exercises — Preaching  through  an  Interpreter — Pottawata- 
mie  Chief — Incident— The  Tribe— Rude  Sports — Indian  Dance — Speci- 
mens of  Savage  Life — lowas — Osages — Appearance — Dress — Gorman- 


CONTENTS.  7 

— Incident — Ferrying  on  Skins — Thieving — Lying — Boasting — 
Cowardice  and  Treachery — Redeeming  Traits — Retort  Courteous — Sem- 
inoles Pages  77-84 

CHAPTER    IX. 

TAH-LE-QUAH    TO    FORT    SCOTT. 

Young  Wolf — Starting  North — Military  Roads — Moravian  Mission — 
Compromise  Line  —  Seneca  Indians  —  Decrease  —  Causes  —  Mohawk 
Preacher — Band  of  Shawnees — Quaw-paws — Their  Mission — Pomme  de 
Terre — Neutral  Lands — River  Adventure — Prairie  Flies — Stampede — 
Fugitives  Reclaimed — Hieroglyphics  —  Night  Traveling  —  Short  Ra- 
tions—Coal Bank 85-91 

CHAPTER   X. 

FORT    SCOTT   TO   MISSOURI    RIVER. 

Fort  Scott— Military  Men— Courtesy— Brief  Authority— No  Rest- 
Maries  des  Cygnes — Jeru's  Trading-Post — Cold  Water  Grove — Bishop 
Roberts — Reminiscences — Cold  Night's  Drive — Camping  under  a  Bug- 
gy—  Hunger  and  Weariness  —  Sabbath  Day's  Journey  —  Destination 
Reached — Shawnees — Commerce  of  the  Plains — Missionary  Life. ...92-97 

CHAPTER  XI. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND — NOTES  BY  THE  WAT. 

Shawnee  School — Friends'  Establishment — Baptist  Mission — Fourth 
of  July— Kansas  Landing— Night  Vigils— Platte  Purchase — Steamer 
Edna — All  Aboard — Aground — Sabbath  Service — Under  Way — Ground- 
ed Again — Rains — Influenza — Cowardly  Captain — Drunken  Row — Work 
&t  the  Capstan — Scorching  a  Horse — Lighted  Off — Sold  Out — On  Board 
Again — Auction  on  Board — St.  Louis — Change  of  Plan — Floor  Accom- 
modations— Off  in  Stage — Savages  in  Civilized  Life — Terrible  Night — 
Left  Sick  —  Long  Sleep  —  Recovery  —  Home  to  Family  —  Trip  to  the 
Lakes — Removal  to  Ohio  River — Cincinnati — Disappointment — Pain- 
ful Detention — Rev.  J.  N.  Maffitt — Bishop  Soule — Indiana  Conference — 
About  to  Give  Up — Arrival  of  Major  Armstrong — Sinews  of  War  Sup- 
plied— Beginning  of  Transfers 98-107 

CHAPTER    XII. 

INCIDENTS   OF    RIVER   PASSAGE. 

Preparations — Steamer  Governor  Morehead — Embarkation — Reflec- 
tions—  Sickness  of  Mrs.  G.  —  Brutal  Captain  —  Reminiscence  of  Dr. 
Coke — Passage  down  the  Ohio — Mississippi — Up  the  Arkansas — Struck 
a  Snag  —  Boat  Sinking  —  Sensation  —  Female  Courage  —  Run  upon  a 


8  CONTENTS. 

Shoal — Temporary  Repair — Under  Way  Again — Low  Water — Tied  Up — 
Captain  Knocks  Under — Catholic  Settlement — Lodgings  on  Cotton 
Plantation  —  Losses  —  Workings  of  Slavery  —  Cotton  Gathering  —  The 
Lash — Effects  on  a  Sick  One — Almost  a  Slaveholder — Tampering  with 
Slavery — Tender-Hearted  Scotchman — Combination  of  Charms  Irre- 
sistible— Turned  Out  of  Doors — Deliverance — Doctrine  of  a  Special 
Providence Pages  108-116 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

ARKANSAS    TRAVELING INCIDENTS. 

Joy  of  Deliverance — Our  Host — The  Shedder  of  Blood — Two  Days' 
Meeting — Rev.  L.  B.  Dennis — Off  for  Conference — Cypress  Swamps — 
"  As  ye  go,  Preach  " — A  Shout — Little  Rock — Arrival  of  Gov.  More- 
head — Bishop  Andrew  and  Rev.  J.  F.  Wright — Ladies  of  Little  Rock — 
News  from  Fort  Coffee — Family  Left  Again — Land  and  Water — Rev. 
J.  C.  Parker  —  Clarkesville  —  Conference  Opened  —  Bishop  on  Foot — • 
Soliloquy — Episcopal  Deterioration — Conference  Business — Bishop  An- 
drew in  the  Chair— Speech  on  Marriage—"  Up-Hill  "  Itinerancy—"  Gifts 
and  Graces  " — Preacher  in  a  Wolf-Trap — Indian  Work — Appointments — 
Rev.  John  Page — Off  Again — Reached  Fort  Coffee — Benson  and  Lady — 
Family  Not  Here 117-125 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

PRELIMINARIES — SCHOOL   OPENED. 

Labor  and  Care — Arrival  of  Family — Female  Resolution — Fine  Pas- 
sage— First  Quarterly  Meeting — Gratuitous  Labors — Preachers  turned 
Mechanics — Visit  to  Bayou  Zeal — Indian  Graves — B.  starts  to  Little 
Rock — Returns  with  Freight — Private  Losses — Opening  of  School — Our 
Plan  — Worship  —  Study  —  Recreation  —  Uniform  — Names — Aptness  in 
Learning — Disease  among  Indians — Indian  Doctors — Piety  of  Stu- 
dents— Indian  Songs 126-134 

CHAPTER    XV. 

CREEK    INDIANS. 

Rev.  W.  Browning— Creeks— Visit  to  Fort  Gibson— Site— "  Graveyard 
of  the  Army  " — Regulations — Whisky  Rations — Spilling  Uncle  Sam's 
Liquor — Official  Example — Col.  Loomis — Condition  of  Creeks — Sem- 
inoles — Alligator — John  Bemo — Falls  of  Verdigris — Three  Rivers — 
Creek  Towns  —  Cheers  —  Agriculture  —  Capt.  Dawson — Marshall — Ca- 
rousal— Muscogees — Negro  Intermixture — Prejudice  against  Missiona- 
ries— Persecutions — Indian  Letter — Recommendation  of  Major  Arm- 
strong—A Murder 135-144 


CONTENTS.  9 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

AFFAIRS     AT     FORT     COFFEE. 

Habits  of  Indian  Boys — Progress — Water-Floods — Our  Gibraltar — 
Excitements — General  Conference  of  1844 — Indignation  Roused — Finale 
Announced — Rev.  W.  Browning — Rev.  Sidney  Dyer — Mrs.  Benson — 
Mission  Conference — Too  Much  Superintendence — Character  of  Indian 
Piety  — Primitive  Love-Feast  —  After  History  of  Pupils  — The  Man 
Charles — Aged  African — Maternal  Affection — Fort  Smith — Gen.  Tay- 
lor— Gen.  Arbuckle — Other  Officers — "  Christianity  Incompatible  with 
Our  Institutions  " — Suffrages  against  the  Sentiment — Affair  of  Honor — 
Irish  Magnanimity — Close  of  the  Session — School  Suspended — Charac- 
ter of  the  Climate Pages  145-153 

CHAPTER   XVII. 

EXCURSIONS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

Excursions  —  Unarmed — Slight  Alarms  —  Praying  Indians  —  Inci- 
dent— Dardanelle  Camp  Meeting — Rev.  J.  C.  Parker — Place  and  Peo- 
ple—  Secession  Movements  —  Judge  C.  —  Tragical  Incident — Indian 

Camp  Meeting — Death  of  Col. Preparation  Deferred — Scenes  of 

Frontier  Life— My  Friend  Killing  an  Indian 154-160 

CHAPTER   XVIII. 

INDIAN    TRAITS     AND    INCIDENTS. 

The  Intellectual  and  the  Moral — Treatment  of  Slaves — Negro  Facto- 
tum— Slaves  Owning  Masters — Laws  against  Instructing — Caught  Vio- 
lating—Indian Diet — Tah-ful-lah— Could  n't  Go  It— Sports  and  Games-^- 
Extract —  Betting — Ball-Plays — Excitement — Parricide — Punishment  — 
Never  Flee — Courts  Incidental  to  Sports — Capt.  Riddle — Barbarous 
Scene — Violent  Deaths — No  Collection  LaTs — Drinking — Burnt  In- 
dian—Speck of  War  — Flight  of  Families  —  " Council  Spiled"  — A 
Truce— Hot  Weather — Sickness— Watering-Places— A  Preacher  Swear- 
ing  161^169 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

CONFERENCE   TRIP — INCIDENTS. 

School  Reopened — Mr.  Brigham— Approach  of  Conference — Visit  of 
Native  Preachers — Ok-chi-ah — Chuk-ma-bee — Character — Preaching — 
Moving  Scene— Off  for  Conference— Ok-chi-ah  Left  Sick— Fairfield— 
Missionary  Greeting — Rev.  Dr.  Butler — Tah-le-quah — Rev.  S.  A.  Wor- 
cester—  Imprisonment  of  Georgia  Missionaries — A  Lovely  Family — 
Death  of  Mr.  Worcester — Assassination  of  Boudinot...  ...170-175 


10  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   XX. 

FIRST   INDIAN   MISSION    CONFERENCE. 

Changes  at  Tah-le-quah — Opening  of   Conference — Bishop  Morris — 

Conference  Services  and  Business — Delegates  to  Louisville  Convention 

Adjournment — Legislator  in  a  Felon's  Grave — Visit  to  Dwight  Mis- 
sion— Mr.  Hitchcock — Rev.  Mr.  Buttrick — Presbyterian  Missionaries — 
Peter  P.  Pitchlynn— Death  of  Ok-chi-ah Pages  176-180 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

TRIP  TO  RED  RIVER. 

My  Traveling  Companion — Ki-e-mi-ehi  Mountains — Texas  Emigra- 
tion— Extract — Bishop  Morris  at  Fort  Smith — Choctaw  Country — Spencer 
Academy — Defects  of  Organization — Failure  of  Plans — Superiority  of 
Mission  Schools— Choctaw  Pride 181-386 

CHAPTER   XXII. 

RED   RIVER   SIDE. 

Doaksville— Col.  Folsom— Extract— Off  for  "the  Land  of  the  Lone 
Star" — Red  River  — Texas  Regulators  —  Pine  Flats  — Clarksville  — 
Texan  Patriotism — Sabbath — Emigration — Noted  Limb — Annexation — 
Texan  Spunk — M'Kenzie's  Seminary — Old  Soldier — Influences  of  Meth- 
odism— Our  Fallen  Men — Dr.  Ruter — Rev.  A.  Poe — Gen.  Howard — 
Sketch  of  Dr.  Ruter— Return  to  Doaksville — Annuity  Payment— Mot- 
ley Scene — Gamblers — Involuntary  Dragoonship — Escort  to  Frontier — 
Modest  Hint  to  Law- Makers — Death  from  Toothache — Indian  View  of 
Retributive  Providence 187-196 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

BED   RIVER   SIDE — TRAVELS   AND   INCIDENTS. 

Fort  Towson — Moral  and  Religious  Influence — An  American  Have- 
lock — Church  Call — A  Soldier  Choir — Indian  Generosity — Female  Mrs- 
sion  Schools — Rev.  Messrs.  Kingsbury,  Wright,  Byington,  Hotchkin — 
New  Recruits — Missionary  Intercourse — Parson  K.  and  the  Bishop — A 
Prelate  Mortified — Late  Acts  of  American  Board — Noble  Conduct  of 
Missionaries — Start  for  Fort  Washita — Visit  to  Koonsha — A  Missionary 
Heroine — Scenery — Loneliness  of  Prairie  Traveling — Washita — Colonel 
Upshaw — Ultima  Thule — Captive  Children — Col.  Harney — Capture  of 
Tom  Starr  —  Lynch  Law  Advised — Indian  Obstinacy  —  Exchange  of 
Notes — Preaching  in  the  Garrison — Courtesy  of  Officers 197-205 


CONTENTS.  11 

CHAPTER    XXIV. 

WEEK    AMONG    THE    CHICKASAWS. 

Detained — Extract — Chickasaws — Conflict  of  de  facto  and  dcjure  Gov- 
ernments—Annuity Payment— Sprig  of  Royalty— Chickasaw  Wealth- 
Customs — Burial — Chickasaw  Mission — Rev.  Mr.  Duncan — Missionary 
Concert — Skinning  the  Indians — Snow — Educational  Plan — Academy 
Endowed  — Homeward  Trip  — Boggy  Depot  —  Kind  Old  Slave— White 
Exiles — A  Home  Welcome — Choctaw  Murders — Unhuried  Body — Re- 
flections—Winter  Climate Pages  206-213 

CHAPTER   XXV. 

PRELIMINARIES   TO    A   RETURN. 

Affairs  at  Fort  Coffee — Prosperity — Female  Department — Church  Mat- 
ters— Approach  of  Louisville  Convention — Mental  Conflict — Line  of 
Action  Fixed — Decline  a  Seat — Determine  to  Take  Family  East — Prep- 
arations for  a  Storm — Southern  Preachers  in  Trouble — Frank  Conces- 
sions— Past  and  Present — Arrangements  for  Leaving — Substitute  Ap- 
pointed—  Condition  of  Institution  —  Educational  —  Moral  —  Fiscal  — 
Extract  of  Letter — State  of  Mind  on  Leaving — Determine  to  Set  Off  by 
Land 214-221 

CHAPTER   XXVI. 

TO   LOUISVILLE   VIA  NEW   ORLEANS — INCIDENTS. 

Take  Leave  of  Fort  Coffee— One  Day's  Land  Travel— Heavy  Rains- 
Rise  of  River — Dismiss  Teamster — Remove  to  Fort  Smith — Embark  on 
Steamer  Archer — Little  Rock — Kind  Attentions — Quaker  Captain — Ef- 
fects of  Spring  Flood — Cotton  Plantations — Aged  Planter — A  Hearer 
of  Wesley — Tribute  to  Freedom — Napoleon — Determine  to  Visit  New 
Orleans — Shipping  Cotton — River  on  Fire — Use  of  a  Nose — High  Wa- 
ter— Scenery — Climate — Arrive  at  New  Orleans — Meet  Friends — Rev. 
C.  W.  Ruter — Excursion  of  Juniors — Louisiana  State  Convention — Take 
Passage  on  the  Steamer-^Upward  Trip — Summary  of  a  Month... 222-228 

CHAPTER   XXVII. 

LOUISVILLE    CONVENTION    AND    SEQUENCES. 

The  Body — Esprit  de  Corps — Waiting  for  Results — The  Crisis — Course 
Fixed — Personal  Intercourse — Interview  with  Bishop  Soule — Final  Set- 
tlement— Transfer — Parting  Scenes — Rev.  W.  Gunn — Fraternal  Feel- 
ing— Arrival  of  Rev.  H.  C.  Benson  and  Lady — Changes  at  Fort  Coffee — 
New  Scene  Opening — Death  of  Rev.  B.  Westlake — Appointed  to  Peru 
District — Long  Illness — Rev.  Philip  May — Offered  Appointment  to  Ore- 
gon— Decline — Nine  Years  in  the  North  Indiana  Conference 229-235 


12  CONTENTS. 

PART    II. 

EARLY  SCENES  IN  KANSAS  AND  NEBRASKA. 
CHAPTER    I. 

EXPLORATION APPOINTMENT TRIP    TO    FRONTIER. 

Passage  of  Kansas-Nebraska  Act — Effects — Religious  Aspect — Meet- 
ing of  Bishops — Determine  to  Occupy — Letter  of  Appointment — Rich- 
mond Station— Last  Ten  Years— Rev.  J.  H.  Hull— Rev.  S.  C.  Cooper- 
Revival — Ties  Sundered — Preparation  for  Exploring  Trip — Off  for  the 
Frontier — Indianapolis — Terre  Haute — Sabbath  in  Illinois — Uncle  Billy 
Moore — St.  Louis — Change  of  Route — Sabbath  in  Missouri — "  Living 
Waters  " — Cholera — Rumors  of  Wars — Independence — Westport — Our 
Missionaries  Ignored— Make  a  Stand Pages  239-247 

CHAPTER    II. 

FIRST   SCENES   IN   KANSAS. 

Kansas  City — Coincidence — Mormon  Emigrants — Cholera — Visit  to 
Wyandotts — Leave  Westport — Enter  Kansas  Territory — "Johnson's 
Mission  " — Pro-Slavery  Stronghold — Free  Side — Quaker  Mission — Bap- 
tist Mission — Dr.  Barker — Graduated  Scale  of  Government  Favors — 
Delawares — Getting  Lost — Value  of  a  Drunken  Indian — Off  for  Waka- 
rusa — Crossing  Kaw  River — Dr.  A.  Still — Wakarusa  Mission — Settlers' 
Meeting — Mormon  Crossing — Ride  to  "  Big  Timbers  " — Hickory  Point — 
Kibbee — First  Sermon — Quaker  Mission — Friends  Thayer  and  Menden- 
hall— Independence— Return  to  Wyandott— Short  Stay— Start  North — 
Attack  of  Disease — Indian  Indifference — Night  at  Johnny  Cake's — Fort 
Leavenworth — Weston 248-258 

CHAPTER    III. 

TRIP    NORTHWARD INCIDENTS. 

A  Resting-Place— Rev.  T.  B.  Markham— Continued  Illness— Kicka- 
poos— Regaining  Health— Off  Again— Sabbath  in  Missouri— Threats  of 
Lynching — St.  Joseph — Continued  Feebleness — Traveling  Outfit  Sold — 
Excursion  into  Kansas — Wa-thc-na — Night  in  the  Stage — Ground  Sleep 
on  the  Nodaway — Oregon — Col.  Archer — Cabin  Hospitality — Excursion 
into  Territory  —  Enter  Great  Nemaha  River  —  No  Settlers  —  Return  — 
Stage  Again— Sidney— Taking  Time  by  the  Forelock— Old  Fort  Kearr 


CONTENTS.  13 

ney — Nebraska  City — Kearney  City — Major  Downs — Church  Lots — Otoe 
Indians  —  Begging  Papers  —  Indian  Funeral  —  Politico-Theologians  — 
Return  —  Stage  Again  — "Sow  Beside  all  Waters  "  — Glenwood  —  St. 
Mary's— Peter  A.  Sarpy Pages  259-268 

CHAPTER    IV. 

UPPER   NEBRASKA — HOMEWARD   TRIP. 

Council  Bluffs — Cross  into  Nebraska — Omaha — Large  Expectations — 
Claim-Taking  —  Collisions  —  Squatter  Sovereignty  —  Summary  Execu- 
tions—  Bellevue — Mission  —  Rev.  W.  Hamilton  —  First  Sermon  in  Ne- 
braska— Excursion  to  Platte  River — Cross  to  St.  Mary's — Disappointed — 
Return  to  Council  Bluffs — Meeting  a  Friend — Choosing  a  Guardian — Off 
for  Home — Iowa  Staging — Short  Rations — Rafting  the  Nodaway — 
Bivouac  in  Stage — Depredation  upon  a  Cornfield — Recuperating — Sab- 
bath at  Ft.  Desmoines — Rev.  W.  Butt — Growing  Independent — Musca- 
tine — Stage  Sleeping — Davenport — Rock  Island — Chicago — Michigan 
City— Lafayette — Indianapolis — Home  Again 269-274 

CHAPTER   V. 

REST — RE  APPOINTMENT START   FOR   KANSAS. 

Home — Population  of  Territories — Report  and  Recommendations — 
Surrender  of  Work — Reconsideration — Acceptance — Transfer  and  Ap- 
pointment— Shawnee  Mission — Striking  for  a  Conference — Canvassing 
for  Help — "Not  Ready" — Rev.  J.  S.  Griffing— Secular  Credentials- 
Wagons,  Teams,  Camp  Equipage — 'Auctioned  Out — The  Start — Our  Com- 
pany— Indianapolis — Lowering  Auspices — Off  in  a  Storm — Sunshine 
Again 276-281 

CHAPTER    VI. 

TRAVEL  TO   KANSAS INCIDENTS. 

Western  Indiana — Rubicon  Passed — Sharp  Practice — Camp  Life — 
Nomads — Sabbaths — Scarcity  of  Water — Super-Legal  Plea — Narrow  Es- 
cape of  Family — Springfield — Illinois  Conference — Take  Railroad — 
Naples — Distinguished  Guests — Nondescript  Night — Griggsville — Han- 
nibal— Missouri  Conference — Plans  all  Upset — Mental  Struggle — Deter- 
mine to  Proceed — Kansas  and  Nebraska  District — Rev.  J.  H.  Dennis — 
Extent  of  Field — Responsibility — Return  and  Meet  Family — Rev.  Mr. 
Blood — Death  from  Cholera — Travel  Through  Missouri — Leave  Family 
Again — Prospecting  Tour — Liberty  and  Independence — U.  S.  Agent — 
Wyandott  Council — Tenant  to  an  Indian — Return  and  Meet  Teams — 
Change  of  Drivers — Griffing  is  Taken  Sick — Kansas  City — Our  Last 
Day's  Travel  aud  Adventure — Indian  Magnanimity — Home  in  a  Strange 
Land ....282-293 


14  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   VII. 

INDIAN   TRIBES   IN   KANSAS. 

Osages — Fragmentary  Tribes — Shawnees — Capt.  Parks — Pascal  Fish — 
Church  Membership  —  Delawares —  Fine  Lands  —  Baptist  Mission  — 
Charles  Ketcham — Johnny-Cake — Wyandotts — Early  History — Rev.  J. 
B.  Finley — Dr.  Elliott — Wyandott  Methodism — Mo-non-cue — Between- 
the-logs  —  Home  Among  Delawares  —  Outside  Influence  —  Exciting 
Scenes — Churches  Burned — My  Home  Among  Them — Government — 
John  Hat— Mud-Eater  — Squire  Gray-Eyes  —  George  W.  Clarke  — 
Francis  Hicks — Big-Tree — John  Solomon — Split-the-logs — Robetaille — 
Defense  of  Indian  Character Pages  294-302 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

OTHER  NORTHERN   TRIBES — TRAITS — INCIDENTS. 

Kickapoos — Sacs — lowas — Presbyterian  Mission — Rev.  Mr.  Irwin — 
Pottawatamies — Kaws — Disgusting  Habits — Dog-meat — Sacs  and  Fox- 
es— Ottawas — Baptist  Mission — Tawa  Jones — Nebraska  Line — Half- 
Breeds — Otoes — Omahas — Presbyterian  Mission — Rev.  Dr.  Sturgess — 
Temperance  Law — Pawnees — Traits  of  Indian  Character — Familiarity — 
Vanity — Religious  Fervor — Scene  at  Delaware  Quarterly  Meeting — Care 
of  Graves — Treaties — Failure  of  Government  with  Delawares — Injus- 
tice to  Missionaries — Wyandott  Treaty — Nation  Virtually  Disbanded — • 
Superiority  of  Southern  Tribes— White  Settlers 303-311 

CHAPTER  IX. 

DISTRICT    LABORS — EARLY   SCENES. 

Home  Adjustments — Freezing — Regular  Irregularity — Labors  Be- 
gun— Wakarusa  —  Hunting  up  a  Mission  —  Opposition  Line  —  Quick 
Work — Sample  of  Early  Labors — Lawrence — Indomitable  Yankees — 
First  Kansas  Election — First  Homicide — Kibbee — Confession — Appre- 
hended Outbreak  —  Night  Ride  — Gov.  Reeder  —  Arrest  — Rev.  T.  B. 
Markham — Quarterly  Meeting  on  Short  Allowance — Retreat  to  Missouri 
Bottom— Failure  of  Horse— Failure  of  Horse  No.  2— No.  3  Holds  Out- 
Nebraska  City — Major  Downs — Lost — Found — Hotel  Preaching — Turn 
Homeward— Leavenworth  City— Hard  Fare  and  High  Pay— Meeting- 
House  Lodging — "Entertaining"  Abolitionists  "Unawares" — Life  in 
the  Territories 312-322 

CHAPTER   X. 

DISTRICT   LABORS — EXPLORING. 

Preachers  Coming  In — Character — Rev.  A.  L.  Downey — Isaac  F.  Col- 
lins— J.  Dennison — C.  II.  Lovejoy — L.  B.  Dennis — B.  C.  Dennis — II. 


CONTENTS.  15 

Burch— D.  Hart— Outfitting  Point— Second  Round— Kibbee  Again— Ex- 
citing Scene — Finale — Quarterly  Meeting  on  Black  Jack — Undo  Billy 
Moore  and  His  Boys — Trip  with  Brother  Gritting — Hundred  and  Ten — 
Free  Whisky  —  Man  Devoured  by  Wolves  —  Great  Indignation  —  Old 
Catholic  Mission— Topeka — Small  Beginning — Hasty  Pudding— Hunt- 
ing up  Church  Members — German  Settler — Taunts — Organization — Law- 
rence Quarterly  Meeting — A  Funeral — Faithfulness  of  Brother  G. — 
Loses  His  Pony— Loss  Made  Up — Traveling  in  Pain Pages  323-331 

CHAPTER   XI. 

DISTRICT   LABORS — MEN   OF   THE   TERRITORIES. 

Off  for  Omaha — Leavenworth  Quarterly  Meeting — Bar-Room  Preach- 
ing— Stakes  Set — Mormon  Elder — Nebraska  City — Hired  Guide — Quar- 
terly Meeting  on  Great  Platte — Omaha — Territorial  Legislature — How 
Elected — Gov.  Burt — Hon.  T.  B.  Cuming — Gov.  Izzard — Preaching  in 
State-House  —  African  Slave-Trade  —  Clerico-Executive  Admonition  — 
"  Seven  Devils  "—Home  Again— Kansas  Election  of  1855— Trip  East — 
Parkville  Mob — Life  Among  the  Wyandotts — Upset  in  a  Storm— Rev. 
J.  H.  Dennis — Life  and  Character — Gov.  Reeder — Dr.  Charles  Robin- 
son—Gen. Pomeroy— John  Brown— Summer  Outfit— A  Retreat. ..332-340 

CHAPTER    XII. 

DISTRICT   LABORS — INCIDENTS. 

Third  Round— Wakarusa — Quarterly  Meeting— Slight  Sensation- 
Mouth  of  Big  Blue— Pawnee— Its  Fate — Fort  Rilcy— Republican- 
Smoky  Hill — History  of  Manhattan  Colony — Bluemont  College — Scien- 
tific Farming — Anecdote  of  John  Strange — The  "  House  Three  Stories 
Long" — An  Unkind  Cut — Touch  at  Home — Off  for  the  North — Leaven- 
worth— Good  Quarterly  Meeting — Companion's  Horse  Lost — Travel  on 
Alone  — Wolf  River  — Visit  to  Presbyterian  Mission  — Hon.  Walter 
Lowry — Between  the  Nemahas — Naming  a  Town — Canonization — Ferry- 
ing Without  Insurance  —  Nebraska  City  Quarterly  Meeting  —  Omaha 
Quarterly  Meeting — A  Criminal  Present — Extract — Bogus  Legislature 
of  Kansas  —  Morals  of  "The  Mission  "—Reckless  Legislation  —  Ef- 
fect  341-348 

CHAPTER    XIII. 
DISTRICT   LABORS BORDER   EXCITEMENTS. 

Visit  to  South  Kansas — Glance  Over  the  Line — Independence — Harri- 
sonville — Preacher  Driven  Away — Rev.  W.  Ferril — West  Point — Way- 
side Work  —  Nocturnal  Depletion  —  Fort  Scott — The  Wrong  Man — 
Mistaken  Transfers — Fourth  Round — Osawattamie — Atchison  Quarterly 
Meeting  — Threats  — Murder  of  Judge  Collins  — Home  — Excitement 


16  CONTENTS. 

Among  Wyandotts —  Violence  —  Committee  of  Notification  —  Female 
Courage — llesolve  to  Face  the  Enemy — Wyandott  Council — My  Speech — 
Reply — Threats  from  Parkville — Voice  of  a  Revolver — Camp  Meeting 
on  Wakarusa  —  Sickness  —  Wyandott  Camp  Meeting  —  Conquering  a 
Peace  —  Dutiful  Sheriff— Murder  of  Barber  —  New  Arrangement  of 
Work— Seat  of  Conference  Changed .....Pages  349-357 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

CONFERENCE  SESSIONS — INCIDENTS. 

Off  for  Iowa  Conference — Steamer  Polar  Star — Excitements  on  Mis- 
souri River — A  Minister  Beaten  and  Put  Ashore  —  Threats  —  Ingrate  — 
Keokuk — Conference  Doings — Bishop  Simpson — Nauvoo — Quincy — St. 
Louis — Bishop  Janes — Rev.  J.  L.  Conklin — Missouri  Conference  Ac- 
tion— Off  Again — An  "Arkansas  Traveler" — Home  Again — Another 
Removal — Adventures  Losing  Interest — South- Western  Iowa — Home  on 
the  "Western  Slope" 358-363 

CHAPTER   XV. 

THE    FIRST    YEAR    IN    NEBRASKA. 

On  My  Work— Future  Details  Omitted— My  Field — Severity  of  Win- 
ter— Deaths  from  Freezing— Trip  East — General  Conference  of  1856 — 
Formation  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  Conference — "  Lane's  Men  " — Capt. 
Chambray — Work  Filled — Camp  Meetings — Off  for  Conference — Party 
Captured — Passing  the  Troops — Topeka — Lecompton — Ludicrous  Mis- 
take—Bout with  a  Sentry— Col.  Titus— United  States  Court— Brief  Im- 
mortality— Burned  Houses — Lawrence — The  Presiding  Elder — A  Testi- 
monial— Imignia  of  War — Bishop  and  Escort — Conference  Tent — Armed 
Preachers — Session — Funeral  of  Rev.  J.  H.  Dennis 364-370 

CHAPTER   XVI. 

SECOND   TEAR  IN  NEBRASKA — ADVENTURES. 

On  the  Way — Camp  Fare — The  Honored  Dead — Passage  to  St.  Louis — 
Cincinnati — Bishop  Morris — Cleveland — General  Mission  Committee — 
Spring  Conference — Another  Severe  Winter — Struggle  in  a  Snow-Drift — • 
Great  Freshet — "Wading  Missouri  River  "—Conference— Arrival  of 
Preachers — Adventure — No  Bishop — Opening  of  Session — Progress — Ar- 
rival of  Bishop  Ames— Extent  of  Work 371-376 

CHAPTER   XVII. 

THIRD   YEAR  IN    NEBRASKA — CONDITION   OF   TERRITORY. 

My  Field  —  Population  and  Improvements  —  Speculating  Mania — • 
Town  Building — Banking — Moral  Influences — Appointments  to  Office  — 


CONTENTS.  17 

Steady  Growth — Camp  Meetings — Eastern  Trip — Mild  Winter — Off  for 
Conference— Falls  City— High  Waters — Topeka— Conference  Session- 
Statistics— Literary  Institutions Pages  377-382 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

FOTTBTH   YEAR  IN  NEBRASKA — ITS   CLOSE. 

My  Last  Territorial  District — Extraordinary  Rains — Hard  Travel- 
ing—Omaha Village — Attempted  Indian  Trick— Refused  a  Lodging  on 
the  Floor— Missionary  Greeting— Rev.  Dr.  Sturgess— Unable  to  Pro- 
ceed— Crossing  Omaha  Creek — Second  Trip — Journeys  Up  the  Platte — 
Smudges — Trip  to  Seaboard— Return— Horse  Struggling  With  Ice— Win- 
ter Travel  North— First  Retreat  from  a  Storm — Scenes  at  Home— Illness 
of  Mrs.  G. — Close  of  Life — My  Arrival — Funeral  Services — Interment — 
Monument — Inscription — Apostrophe 383-390 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

AFTER    SCENES — RETIEW. 

Home,  as  it  was  Left  —  Conference  at  Omaha  — Statistics— Pike's 
Peak — Oreapolis — Review  of  Five  Years — Kansas  Struggle — Influence 
of  Our  Ministry  —  Increase  of  Population  —  General  Improvement  — 
Religious  Growth  —  Educational  Effort  —  Retirement  —  Providential 
Changes 391-395 


PART   III. 

EXPLORING  TOUR  TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 
LETTER  i. 

THE   START. 

Conference  of  1859 — Rocky  Mountain  Mines — Call — Conflict — Declin- 
ature — Home  Changes — Acceptance  and  Appointment — Outfit — Rev.  J. 
Adriance — Great  Stampede— All  Ready — Off Pages  399-404 

LETTER   II. 

MISSOURI   RIVER  TO   FORT   KEARNEY. 

Plattesmouth— Salt  Creek— On  Guard— Elephant  City— Platte  Val- 
ley—Pawnee Village— Passing  U.  S.  Troops— Platte  River— Fort  Kear- 
ney—Retreaters— The  Major— Incident 405-409 

2 


18  CONTENTS. 


LETTER   III. 

FORT   KEARNEY   TO   GREAT   CROSSING. 

Great  Bustle  on  the  Plains — Government  Trains  —  Coralle  —  Buffalo 
Range  —  Dog  Towns  —  Cottonwood  Springs  —  O'Fallon's  Bluff — Paw- 
nee and  Sioux  Indians — The  Crossing — "  High  Wines  " — Seasons  of 
Devotion Pages  410-414 

LETTER   IV. 

GREAT   CROSSING   TO   CHERRY   CREEK. 

News  from  the  Mines  —  The  Country — Birthday  Sabbath  —  Select 
Library — Jolly  Missourians — Songs  "  in  a  Strange  Land  " — Almost 
Envious — Cheyennes — Dead  Indian — Fremont's  Orchard — Old  Forts — 
Arapahoes— First  View  of  the  Mountains— Cherry  Creek 415-419 

LETTER   V. 

TOWNS — MINING   REGION — INDIANS. 

Denver — Auraria — Other  Towns — Fourth  of  July — Mountain  Range — 
The  "  Parks  "—Diggings— Latitude— Elevation— Utah  Indians— Massa- 
cre—Indian  Wars 420-423 

LETTER   VI. 

STAY REMOVAL MULE    RIDE    UPON    THE    MOUNTAINS. 

Recognitions — Camping  Ground — First  Sabbath — Raising  a  Congre- 
gation— Quartering  on  the  Enemy — Drive  to  the  Mountains — A  Stand- 
Still — Head-Quarters — Patriarchal  Labors — Climbing  the  Mountain — 
" Raising  the  Color" — New  Phase  of  Itinerancy — Scenery — Stream  of 
Travel— Night  in  the  Mountains— Gregory's  Diggings 424-429 

LETTER   VII. 

DISCOVERIES — STAY   AT   MINES — SABBATH   AT   GREGORY'S. 

Mining  Explorations — Claims — Mining  Process — Short  Breathing — 
Losing  the  Way — Mountain  Summit — Eternal  Snows — Inspiring  Pro  - 
pect — Incident — Meeting  Friends — Sabbath  Services — Organization — 
Affecting  Recognition 430-434 

LETTER   VIII. 

OTHER  DIGGINGS — YANKEE  ENTERPRISE — CHARACTER  OF  POPULATION. 
Scenes   by   the   Way — Mexicans — Thunder-Storm — A    Court — Modus 
Operand*  — Yankee   Incident — Ladies   of   the   Mines  — Learned   Pro- 
fessions....   435-439 


CONTENTS.  19 

LETTER   IX. 

RESULTS — PROSPECTS — THE    CHURCH' S   WORK — DOWN   THE    MOUNTAIN. 

Success  and  Disappointment — Problem  Unsolved — Hope  Deferred — 
Qualifications  of  a  Miner — Creek  "  Clear  "  on  Sabbath — Open  Door — 
Will  it  Pay? — Iron  Duke  —  Rocky  Mountain  Conference  —  Down  the 
Mountains— The  Jftntw  and  the  Plus— Closing  Off Pages  440-444 

LETTER    X. 

PASSING  INCIDENTS CONVENTION — THE    ROUTE. 

Summary  —  Convention  —  Compromise  —  Character  of  Members  —  De- 
portment— Mining  News — Excitement — Products  of  Soil — Route  to  the 
Mines...  445-448 


RESULTS  OF  EXPLORATION— REPORT. 

Recapitulation  —  Probable  Population  —  Inviting  Field  —  Arrange- 
ment of  Work  —  Denver  and  Auraria  Mission  —  Rocky  Mountain 
Mission— Labors — Preachers  Wanted— Probable  Future— Present  Duty 
Plain  ...  449-451 


CONCLUSION. 

Results  of  Personal  Observation — Indian  Missions — Removal  Policy — 
Second  Removals — Common  Occupancy  of  Lands — Annuity  System — 
Bad  Example  —  Bad  Agents  —  Influence  of  Missionaries  —  Numbers 
Saved— Plea  for  the  Indian— Hon.  8.  W.  Parker— A  Policy  Suggested— 
Field  Among  White  Settlers — The  Struggle — Influence  of  Religion — 
Send  Them  the  Gospel— Last  Word  With  the  Reader— Review— Whole 
Field— "  Journeyings  Oft  "—Preaching  to  All— Changes  Witnessed— 
Result— Tribute  to  Fellow-Laborers....  452-464 


PART   I. 


LIFE  AND  LABORS 


A  M  <>  N  < } 


SOUTHERN    INDIANS 


OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 


LIFE  AND  LABORS  AMONG  SOUTHERN  INDIANS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

CALL    TO    THE    FRONTIER. 

THE  Winter  of  1842-3  was  a  glorious  season  for  the 
Church  in  the  West.  The  flaine  of  revival  was  kindled 
far  and  near.  Zion  had  put  on  her  "beautiful  garments;" 
the  ministers  of  Christ  had  received  a  fresh  anointing; 
the  hosts  of  the  Lord  were  girded  anew  for  the  conflict; 
sinners  were  pressing  to  the  cross  hy  scores  and  hundreds ; 
and  on  every  hand  the  shout  of  victory  was  heard  from  the 
ranks  of  Israel.  A  powerful  impression  was  made  upon 
the  public  mind ;  opposition,  for  the  time,  gave  way  or 
was  powerless  ;  and  even  the  impenitent  acknowledged  the 
hand  of  the  Lord,  and  seemed  to  participate  in  the  gen- 
eral desire  for  the  spread  of  the  work.  The  secular  prints 
had  taken  up  the  theme,  and  the  weekly  mails  were 
freighted  with  reported  triumphs  of  the  Cross.  It  was 
one  of  the  "set  times"  with  which  God  is  pleased  to 
"favor  Zion;"  one  of  those  seasons  in  which  the  arm 
of  the  Lord  is  so  powerfully  revealed  as  to  disarm  the 
adversary,  close  the  lips  of  infidelity,  and  constrain  all  to 
acknowledge  that  "the  excellency  of  the  power  is  of 
Grod" — scenes,  the  increase  and  perpetuation  of  which 
will  introduce  and  constitute  millennial  glory. 

23 


24  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

This  blessed  influence  rested  upon  the  Churches  for  a 
period  of  years  preceding  and  succeeding  the  time  referred 
to,  and  additions  to  the  ranks  of  our  Zion  were  numbered 
by  hundreds  of  thousands.  This  was  its  acme. 

The  Spring  of  that  year  found  the  writer  in  the  extreme 
north  of  Indiana  Conference,  the  limits  of  which  were 
then  commensurate  with  the  State.  South  Bend  district, 
my  field  of  labor,  extended  quite  across  the  northern  end 
of  Indiana,  from  the  Ohio  line  upon  the  east  to  that  of 
Illinois  upon  the  west,  stretching  along  the  Lake  and  State 
of  Michigan  on  the  north,  and  running  south  through  the 
width  of  several  counties.  Scarcely  half  a  score  of  years 
had  passed  since  the  first  white  settlements  were  made,  but 
already  the  appearance  of  thrift  and  comfort  indicated  a 
community  of  maturer  age.  The  Winter  preceding  will 
long  be  remembered  as  one  of  unusual  length  and  severity. 
For  months  the  face  of  the  earth  had  been  deeply  covered 
with  snow,  save  the  "ditch,"  or  beaten  track,  on  which 
was  heard  the  merry  ring  of  sleigh-bells,  with  the  cheerful 
voices  of  an  active  and  energetic  people  on  excursions  of 
business  or  of  pleasure,  or,  on  Sabbath,  upon  their  way  to 
and  from  the  house  of  God. 

Religion  had  early  taken  a  deep  hold  upon  this  com- 
munity, and,  as  usual,  Methodism  had  led  the  van.  Many 
of  the  early  emigrants  to  this  fine  region  had  been  nurtured 
in  her  lap,  and  were  here  treading  in  the  steps  of  their 
fathers.  Side  by  side  with  them,  in  their  incipient  strug- 
gles, had  been  found  the  itinerant  preacher.  Here  an  Arm- 
strong and  a  Griffith  had  labored  and  fallen.  In  their  steps 
had  followed  a  Hargrave  and  a  Wood,  each  surrounded  by 
a  band  of  devoted  co-laborers.  God  had  signally  owned 
their  labors  in  the  steady  and  progressive  improvement  of 
the  Church  and  the  conversion  of  many  souls,  though  as 
yet  no  general  and  widespread  revival  influence  had  visited 
this  section.  They  were  thus  a  "people  prepared  for  the 
Lord,"  and,  in  the  exercise  of  faith  and  persevering  effort, 
awaiting  his  coming. 


FLAME   OF  REVIVAL.  25 

No  marvel,  then,  that  here  the  fires  of  revival  caught  at 
once,  and  burned  with  intense  ardor.  The  attack  was  led 
on  by  A.  Wood,  Games,  Lemon,  Monson,  Posey,  Blue, 
and  others,  some  of  whom  have  passed  to  their  reward, 
and  others  are  still  upon  Zion's  walls.  On  every  side  the 
battle-cry  was  heard,  and  shouts  of  victory  were  borne  on 
every  breeze.  From  west  to  east  the  flame  spread.  Valpa- 
raiso, Door  Prairie,  Laporte,  Michigan  City,  Terracoupee, 
South  Bend,  Mishawaka,  Plymouth,  Goshen,  Lima,  An- 
gola, all  shared  the  gracious  influence.  Churches  were 
filled  to  overflowing,  and,  at  times,  even  in  midwinter, 
windows  were  thrown  open,  and  throngs  of  sleighs  grouped 
around  the  house,  filled  with  eager  listeners  to  the  Word 
of  Life.  In  the  absence  of  houses  of  worship,  court-houses 
were  signally  honored  of  God  as  places  of  the  revelation 
of  his  power.  The  temples  of  justice  resounded  with  the 
wail  of  the  penitent  and  with  the  shout  of  the  new-born 
sonl. 

The  "people  were  willing"  in  this  "day  of  His  power." 
The  outpouring  was  gineral,  and  no  section,  perhaps, 
shared  more  largely  an#  permanently  in  the  happy  results 
than  that  then  embraced  in  this  field  of  labor.  It  will  be 
no  matter  of  wonder,  then,  that,  in  the  midst  of  such 
scenes  and  surrounded  by  such  associates  and  co-laborers, 
the  heart  should  cling  fondly,  and  say  to  itself:  "  Here  will 
I  build  my  tabernacle;"  "This  people  is  my  people,  and 
their  God  my  God  ;  where  they  die  will  I  die,  and  there 
will  I  be  buried."  What  itinerant  heart  has  not  realized 
these  feelings  ? 

But  "this  is  not  our  rest."  Itinerancy  leaves  us  not 
long  to  indulge  these  dreams  of  continuance  in  the  hal- 
lowed associations  of  life,  till  its  stern  mandate  falls  upon 
the  ear,  and  the  dearest  earthly  ties  are  severed.  And  so 
effectually  and  repeatedly  are  the  affections  wrenched  off 
from  their  most  cherished  objects,  that,  at  length,  like  the 
tendril  often  torn  from  its  hold,  it  almost  refuses  to  clasp 
again  ;  or,  to  give  the  thought  a  more  cheerful  turn,  they 

3 


26  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

clasp   only  to  hold  for  a  time,  then  to  be  severed  for  a 
season  preparatory  to  an  eternal  reunion. 

In  the  midst  of  these  scenes  the  summons  came  to  an- 
other and  far  different  field  of  labor,  not  even  awaiting  that 
annual  crisis  of  itinerant  life,  the  Conference  season  of  re- 
lease and  reappointment.  A  letter  was  received  from  Rev. 
E.  R.  Ames,  then  one  of  the  Corresponding  Secretaries  of 
the  Missionary  Society,  dated  Washington,  February  4, 
1843,  from  which  the  following  are  extracts  : 

"  DEAR  BROTHER, — Will  any  thing  induce  you  to  consent 
to  go  to  the  Indian  country  in  the  South-West  ?  The  Choc- 
taw  Indians,  at  their  late  General  Council,  appropriated  six 
thousand7  dollars  per  annum,  for  the  next  twenty  years,  to 
the  support  of  the  Fort  Coffee  Academy.  This  institution 
they  have  placed  under  the  care  of  our  Missionary  Society. 
The  Society  is  to  contribute  one  thousand  dollars  per  annum 
toward  its  support.  Now,  what  we  want  is  a  Superintend- 
ent— a  man  to  take  the  general  oversight  of  the  concern,  to 
employ  teachers,  mechanics,  laborers,  etc. ;  in  short,  to 
manage  the  whole  matter.  Now,  if  the  Bishops  appoint 
you,  will  you  not  consent  to  serve  the  Church  in  this  de- 
partment of  her  labor  ?  If  you  will  go  as  Superintendent, 
I  think  brother  W.,  of  Greencastle,  will  go  as  principal 
of  the  female  department,  and  brother  B.  as  principal 
teacher. 

"You  perceive  it  will  be  a  very  large  establishment, 
and  an  annual  expenditure  of  seven  thousand  dollars.  The 
site  is  a  very  beautiful  and  healthy  one,  on  the  Arkan- 
sas River,  at  Fort  Coffee.  It  is  twelve  miles  from  Fort 
Smith,  a  military  post  and  village  of  three  or  four  hundred 
inhabitants,  and  twenty  miles  from  Van  Buren,  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  towns  in  Arkansas.  There  are  buildings 
already  erected,  formerly  occupied  by  the  garrison,  which, 
with  some  repairs  and  slight  additions,  will  furnish  suffi- 
cient accommodations  for  the  male  department.  The  ar- 
rangement would  be  for  you  to  go  on  early  in  the  Spring, 


MENTAL   CONFLICT.  27 

.     .     .     and  get  things  in  readiness  for  opening  the  male 
department,   say  by  the  first   of  next   October,  when  you 
would  move  your  family  on  and  take  out  teachers.     .     .     . 
"  Do  not  fail  to  write,  etc. 

"  Yours,  truly,  E.  R.  AMES." 

Bishops  Roberts,  Soule,  and  Morris  were  expected  to 
meet  in  Cincinnati  in  March,  at  which  time  it  was  contem- 
plated that  the  place  would  be  filled.  I  was  consulted ;  for 
authoritatively  as  our  Bishops  are  empowered  to  speak,  and 
implicitly  as  our  ministry  are  wont  to  obey  for  the  Gospel's 
sake,  I  have  yet  to  learn  the  first  instance  in  which  an  arbi- 
trary or  unreasonable  requirement  has  been  made,  by  which 
any  brother  has  been  transferred  to  a  distant  field,  irrespect- 
ive of  private  and  domestic  considerations  and  wishes. 
No  man  ever  takes  a  foreign,  or  even  a  remote,  field,  except 
as  a  volunteer ;  a  policy  at  once  wise  and  humane. 

And  now  a  conflict  ensued.  Domestic  life  was  dear. 
Middle  years  were  already  attained.  Itinerancy  with  me  had 
been  bounded  by  the  limits  of  a  single  State,  whose  "  long 
removals"  dwindled  into  insignificance  compared  with  the 
thousands  of  miles  now  placed  before  me.  Then,  civiliza- 
tion, with  its  social  and  religious  privileges,  was  to  be  left 
behind,  and  the  future  abode  of  self,  wife,  and  little  ones 
was  to  be  among  savages  in  their  own  wilds.  These  con- 
siderations, however,  were  personal,  and  might  be  disposed 
of,  could  the  path  of  duty  be  made  clear.  But  another  class 
of  objections  arose  still  more  formidable.  "I  am,"  it  was 
suggested,  "  now  in  the  midst  of  a  glorious  revival.  To 
some  extent  I  am  identified  with  this  work.  Whatever 
abilities  God  has  given  me  may  certainly  be  as  profitably 
employed  here,  while  another,  differently  circumstanced, 
may  take  charge  of  the  proposed  enterprise." 

Such  were  the  plausible  arguments  that  forced  themselves 
upon  my  mind,  seconded,  at  the  same  time,  by  the  spoken 
and  written  remonstrances  of  brethren  whose  piety  and 
judgment  I  had  learned  to  respect.  For  the  time  being  they 


28  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

prevailed,  and  a  letter  was  written  setting  forth,  at  some 
length,  the  reasons  for  respectfully  declining  the  appoint- 
ment. Thus  the  point  was  settled,  and,  as  I  believed,  upon 
considerations  of  duty,  whatever  unconscious  influence 
may  have  been  exerted  by  a  love  of  domestic  life  and  a 
desire  to  die  in  the  midst  of  my  brethren. 

Some  time,  however,  elapsed  before  the  period  at  which 
an  answer  was  required.  The  letter  was  retained,  and  the 
whole  subject  came  up  for  reconsideration.  Reflection  took 
another  turn.  "If,"  thought  I,  "the  reasons  that  have 
influenced  me  be  just  and  proper,  still  they  do  not  belong 
to  me,  but  should  be  weighed  by  the  appointing  power.  It 
is  for  those  to  whom  we  have  surrendered  this  province  to 
judge  of  the  comparative  wants  of  different  sections  of  the 
work,  and  of  individual  fitness  and  competency  for  each 
field.  I  may  be  a  very  inadequate  judge  in  my  own  case, 
and  may  be  assuming  a  responsibility  that  belongs  of  right 
to  others."  This  train  of  reflections  was  not  indulged  long 
till  it  produced  a  complete  reversal  of  former  determina- 
tions. The  written  letter  was  canceled,  and  another  pre- 
pared and  forwarded  containing  a  surrender  at  discretion. 
Previously  my  motto  had  been  "any  place  in  the  Confer- 
ence." Now  I  extended  it  to  "the  world." 

Meanwhile  my  district  labors  went  on  as  usual,  awaiting 
the  developments  of  providence.  A  few  weeks  passed, 
and  the  matter  was  definitely  settled  by  my  'receiving  the 
following : 

"  CINCINNATI,  MARCH  9,  1843. 
"To  THE  REV.  WILLIAM  H.  GOODE: 

"This  is  to  certify  that  you  have  been  duly  appointed  to 
the  superintendence  of  Fort  Coffee  Academy,  in  the  Choc- 
taw  Nation,  to  which  station  you  will  repair  with  as  little 
delay  as  the  circumstances  of  the  case  will  admit.  In 
organizing  this  institution  you  are  expected  to  adhere 
strictly  to  the  stipulations  entered  into  between  the  civil 
authorities  of  the  Nation  and  our  Missionary  Secretary, 


CONSECRATION  TO   THE   WORK.  29 

Rev.  E.  R.  Ames.  Especially  in  the  selection  of  teachers 
you  will  have  strict  regard  to  their  literary,  moral,  and 
religions  character.  And  it  is  greatly  to  be  desired  that  all 
persons  who  may  be  employed  in  the  different  departments 
of  the  institution  shall  be  such  as  to  afford  an  example  of 
morality  and  piety  in  every  respect  worthy  of  imitation. 
"Yours,  with  esteem  and  affection, 

"  JOSHUA  SOULE, 
"Tnos.  A.  MORRIS." 

The  sensation  produced  by  this  announcement  will 
scarcely  be  appreciated  by  many ;  an  announcement  which 
was  to  change,  and  which,  in  its  consequences,  actually  has 
changed,  the  whole  subsequent  course  of  life,  subverted  all 
pre-arranged  plans,  and  converted  its  subject  into  a  wan- 
derer over  earth  ;  a  wanderer  in  hope  of  eternal  life. 

No  sooner  was  the  fact  communicated,  than,  with  my 
now  sainted  wife,  on  bended  knees  and  with  tearful  eyes, 
ourselves,  our  little  ones,  our  cause  were  commended  in 
humble  prayer  to  Him  in  whose  guidance  alone  is  safety. 


30  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   II. 

TRAVEL  — FROM  THE  LAKES  GULFWARD. 

THE  Episcopal  summons  reached  me  at  South  Bend, 
then  the  residence  of  my  family,-  upon  the  15th  day  of 
March,  1843.  Existing  relations  were  at  once  dissolved ; 
the  old  harness  fell  off,  and  new  duties,  responsibilities,  and 
labors  spread  themselves  out  before  me.  No  time  was  to 
be  lost.  I  was  expected  to  set  out  at  once,  leaving  my 
family  at  some  convenient  point,  visit  the  country,  make 
all  needful  arrangements  for  entering  upon  the  work,  and, 
when  all  was  ready,  return  and  take  out  my  family  and 
other  members  of  our  mission  establishment.  Indianapolis, 
our  last  previous  residence,  was  selected  as  the  place  of 
temporary  stay  for  the  family.  Two  days  were  spent  in 
preparation,  embracing  the  winding-up  of  personal  affairs, 
sale  of  household  goods,  hire  of  teams,  and  all  needful 
arrangements  for  the  comfort  of  a  family  during  a  week's 
exposure  at  that  rigorous  and  inclement  season.  On  the 
morning  of  the  17th  we  set  out  in  wagons,  the  earth  still 
covered  with  snow,  and  the  weather  intensely  cold.  Sab- 
bath, the  19th,  was  spent  at  a  hotel  in  Logansport.  I 
heard  a  sermon  at  the  Presbyterian  church  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  preached  at  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church  in 
the  evening.  On  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  crossed  the 
Wabash  on  ice  a  foot  thick,  and  on  the  22d  reached  Indi- 
anapolis in  a  violent  snow-storm,  and  met  a  hearty  welcome 
from  kind  friends. 

A  visit  to  Greencastle  followed,  and  an  interview  with 
the  Corresponding  Secretary,  then  resident  there,  and  hav- 
ing supervision  of  missionary  interests  in  the  West.  All 


REVIVAL   SCENES.  31 

requisite  preliminaries  were  adjusted  for  a  vigorous  prose- 
cution of  the  enterprise. 

From  north  to  south,  through  the  State,  the  flame  of  revival 
was  burning,  and  at  almost  every  point  the  invitation  was 
heard,  "We  have  a  meeting  in  progress;  can't  you  stay 
and  help  us  ?"  To  these  I  responded  as  I  was  able,  and 
indeed  beyond  my  strength.  Indianapolis,  as  usual,  was 
sharing  largely.  The  two  preceding  years  it  had  constituted 
my  field  of  labor,  the  entire  city  and  suburbs  having,  up  to 
that  time,  been  embraced  in  one  charge.  At  the  close  of 
my  term  the  city  was  divided,  and  two  stations  constituted. 
The  Western  charge,  under  the  care  of  Rev.  L.  W.  Berry, 
retained  the  old  church  premises,  now  known  as  Wesley 
Chapel,  while  the  Eastern  charge  temporarily  worshiped  in 
the  court-house  till  Roberts  Chapel  was  erected.  Here  I 
enjoyed  a  season  of  labor  and  religious  communion,  and 
rejoiced  in  the  work  of  the  Lord  in  both  charges. 

Time,  however,  and  urgent  personal  duties  forbade  delay 
in  a  work  so  delightful.  The  kindness  of  friends  left  me 
little  to  do  in  preparing  for  a  family  residence  during  my 
absence.  On  the  29th  I  was  off  by  stage  for  Madison, 
en  route  for  Cincinnati.  Calling  at  Lawrenceburg  to  visit 
an  aged  parent,  I  had  the  happiness  to  spend  a  Satur- 
day and  Sabbath  with  my  former  presiding  elder,  Rev.  C. 
AY.  Ruter,  and  Rev.  A.  Eddy,  who  had  come  up  to  assist 
him  in  the  labors  of  a  quarterly  meeting.  Lawrenceburg 
station,  under  the  pastoral  labors  of  Rev.  S.  T.  Gillet,  was 
then  enjoying  a  season  of  refreshing.  We  preached,  prayed, 
exhorted,  and  rejoiced  with  happy  converts  and  quickened 
believers. 

I  arrived  at  Cincinnati  on  the  3d  of  April.  Here  I  had  a 
violent  attack  of  disease,  brought  on,  in  the  judgment  of 
my  physician,  by  excessive  labor  and  exposure.  Serious 
apprehensions  were  entertained  as  to  the  result.  A  family 
adjoining  my  lodgings,  seeing  a  carriage-load  of  ministers 
drive  away  from  the  door,  concluded,  "the  man  is  dead." 
But  God  ordered  otherwise.  By  skillful  medical  treatment 


32  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

and  kind  attentions  from  the  family  of  my  friend,  brother 
L.  Swartz,  and  others,  with  God's  blessing,  I  was  in  a 
short  time  so  far  restored  as  to  enter  again  upon  my  work. 
Here  some  days  were  spent  in  obtaining  the  necessary  sup- 
plies of  provisions,  hardware,  paints,  etc.,  for  building  and 
repairing,  farming  implements,  mechanics'  tools,  camp  and 
household  equipage,  and  all  the  requisite  outfit  for  a  frontier 
residence.  Here,  too,  I  employed  a  young  German  and  his 
wife  to  accompany  me,  and  aid  in  the  domestic  labors  of 
the  Mission. 

On  the  10th,  I  went  down  by  boat  to  Louisville,  and  spent 
several  days  there  in  completing  purchases  and  arranging 
papers  preparatory  to  a  departure.  On  Saturday,  April 
15th,  we  got  all  on  board  our  steamer,  and  took  leave  of 
the  "upper  country." 

There  were,  at  that  time,  few  boats  in  the  Arkansas  tra-le 
from  points  upon  the  Ohio  River ;  and  those  few  generally 
inferior  in  character  and  accommodations.  The  "Gallant," 
for  this  was  the  chivalrous  cognomen  of  our  craft,  was  a 
vessel  of  some  age,  and  had  already  seen  more  service  than 
was  consistent  with  safe  reckonings  upon  her  future  per- 
formance. She  was  "condemned,"  or,  in  other  words, 
unable,  from  age  and  condition,  to  obtain  insurance,  and 
so  ran  upon  the  personal  risk  of  owners  and  shippers. 
This  looked  rather  unfavorable  for  a  long  trip  upon  danger- 
ous waters  ;  but  the  initiated  will  understand,  when  I  say 
that  it  probably  turned  to  our  advantage.  All  hope  of 
making  a  fortune  by  sinking  the  boat  and  recovering  insur- 
ance was  taken  away,  and  the  great  care  and  watchfulness 
with  which  she  was  managed  contributed,  in  no  small 
degree,  to  the  comfort  and  safety  of  our  passage. 

A  Sabbath  upon  a  steamboat  is  irksome,  though  upon 
long  trips  and  by  unfrequented  routes  it  is  often  inevitable. 
The  tedium  is  greatly  relieved,  and  Sabbath  observance 
among  the  passengers  promoted,  when  an  opportunity  is 
afforded  of  preaching.  My  first  Sabbath  out  afforded  no 
such  opportunity,  and  was  spent  in  reading  and  reflection. 


SCENERY   OF  THE   LOWER  ARKANSAS.  33 

Our  company  on  board  was  small  and  quiet,  our  officers 
were  gentlemanly,  and  no  incident  worthy  of  note  occurred 
upon  our  passage  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi. 

Upon  the  20th  we  reached  Montgomery's  Point,  an  old 
and  well-known  landing,  at  the  mouth  of  the  White  River 
of  Arkansas,  one  of  the  rude  and  lawless  resorts  of  the  flat- 
boatmen  of  early  days ;  a  place,  which,  had  it  a  tongue, 
could  tell  many  a  tale  that  would  make  the  ears  tingle. 
Here  I  was  surprised  and  gratified  to  take  by  the  hand  Rev. 
David  Crawford,  formerly  a  member  of  Indiana  Conference, 
transferred,  within  a  year  or  two,  to  the  more  destitute  field 
in  Arkansas.  His  circuit  extended  over  a  large  section  of 
adjacent  country  upon  the  Mississippi,  a  region  most  unin- 
viting both  in  its  physical  and  moral  aspects.  He  seemed 
cheerful,  and  spoke  encouragingly  of  his  work. 

Here  we  entered  the  mouth  of  White  River,  and  passed 
up  some  distance;  then  took  a  bayou,  or  "cut-off,"  com- 
municating with  the  Arkansas,  and,  by  this  means,  entered 
the  latter  river  at  some  distance  up.  This  is  often  done  by 
downward-bound  boats,  instead  of  going  down  to  Napoleon 
and  entering  the  Arkansas  at  its  own  outlet.  It  serves  to 
give  some  idea  of  the  low,  flat  character  of  the  country 
affording  facilities  for  such  intercommunication. 

The  low  bottoms  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas  afford 
but  little  scenery  such  as  is  generally  admired ;  and,  hence, 
the  country  is  seldom  described  by  tourists,  each  seeking  to 
sink  the  past  in  oblivion  so  soon  as  his  own  escape  is  made. 
But  even  this  dreary  region  was  not  without  interest  to  me. 
The  wide  expanse  of  channel  through  which  the  river,  when 
low,  meanders  its  course  amid  interminable  sand-banks, 
planted  thickly  with  snags,  sawyers,  and  lodged  trees,  with 
roots  anchored  and  tops  downward,  presenting  their  stub- 
born ramifications  so  closely  set  as  would  seem  to  defy  the 
progress  of  an  ascending  steamer;  the  dense  cane-brakes 
lining  the  banks  with  their  somber  shades ;  the  long  rows 
of  young  cotton-wood,  which,  following  up  the  successive 
freaks  of  the  stream,  had,  year  after  year,  taken  root  in  the 


34  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

newly-deposited  alluvium,  and  grew  in  ranks  as  straight 
and  regular  as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of  man  ;  and  all  this 
tuned  into  melody  by  the  hoarse  music  of  wild  geese  and 
brants,  which,  with  their  long-limbed  companions,  the  sand- 
hill cranes,  seemed  to  claim  the  exclusive  proprietorship  of 
these  wild  domains ;  even  these  had  a  melancholy  interest, 
especially  when  responded  to  by  the  creakings  and  groan- 
ings  of  our  "  Gallant "  old  steamer,  indicative  of  years  of 
former  toil  as,  night  by  night,  I  pensively  paced  her  hurri- 
cane deck  alone  by  moonlight,  and  thought  of  home  and 
friends  far  away.  There  is  a  luxury  in  melancholy ;  and 
here  was  found  enough  to  raise  it  to  its  most  exquisite 
point. 

Here  and  there  the  dull  monotony  was  broken  by  the 
appearance  of  a  cotton  plantation,  whose  proprietors  held 
only  a  nominal  residence  of  a  few  Winter  months,  the 
Summers  being  spent  in  some  more  genial  clime ;  their 
annual  return  being  only  in  season  to  convey  to  New 
Orleans,  the  great  cotton  emporium,  ..their  "  crop  "  of  bales 
of  the  world's  great  staple,  raised  arid  prepared  by  months 
of  Summer  toil  of  Afric's  sons  and  daughters,  under  the 
lash  of  a  taskmaster,  and  to  enjoy  a  season  of  gayety  and 
festivity  over  its  proceeds  ;  thus  forever  dooming  this  region 
to  remain  unimproved,  unenlightened,  uncared  for,  while  the 
present  order  of  things  continues. 

A  few  exploded  enterprises  of  former  days  have  barely 
left  traces  enough  to  tell  the  tale  of  defeat.  An  early 
settlement  was  made  by  the  French,  about  one  hund- 
red miles  up,  and  a  town  commenced  the  same  year,  it  is 
said,  with  the  founding  of  Philadelphia.  But,  like  many 
more  modern  schemes  of  the  same  character,  its  dreams  of 
future  greatness  have  vanished,  and  it  is  now  known  to 
boatmen  simply  as  "The  Post."  Still  further  up  was  a 
Catholic  colony  and  seminary,  at  a  place  known  as  St. 
Mary's.  Here  remain  only  a  few  houses,  and  a  relic  of  the 
former  population.  This  spot  was  rendered  memorable  to 
me  and  mine  in  after  historv,  as  will  be  seen. 


LITTLE   ROCK — GOV.  YELL.  35 

On  Sabbath,  the  23d,  I  had  a  pleasant  season  of  worship 
with  the  passengers  in  the  cabin,  while  I  preached  to  them 
of  the  "judgment-seat  of  Christ."  I  thought  I  observed  a 
marked  change  of  deportment  afterward. 

On  the  24th  we  arrived  at  Little  Rock,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  about  three  hundred  miles,  by  water,  from  the  mouth. 
This  is  a  pleasant,  well-built  town,  of  several  thousand 
inhabitants,  surrounded  by  a  rough  and  unpromising  coun- 
try. It  contains  a  good  State-House,  United  States  Arm- 
ory, and  other  public  buildings.  Resident  here  is  quite  a 
number  of  genteel  and  interesting  families,  with  a  large 
amount  of  rough  and  vicious  population.  I  found,  also,  a 
pleasant  little  society  of , our  own  Church,  with  a  comfort- 
able house  of  worship,  and  Rev.  H.  Kern,  formerly  of 
Pittsburg  Conference,  as  their  pastor. 

At  Little  Rock  I  was  introduced  to  the  late  Gov.  Yell ; 
found  him  a  slender,  plain,  pacific-looking  man,  dressed  in 
common  jeans,  seated  in  his  office,  and  calmly  smoking  a 
long-stemmed  pipe,  with  little  indication  of  that  desperate 
and  furious  courage  exhibited  by  him  on  the  fatal  fields  of 
Mexico,  where  he  met  an  untimely  end.  Here,  also,  I 
formed  the  acquaintance  of  Judge  Pascal,  of  the  Supreme 
Bench  of  the  State,  an  intelligent,  large-hearted  Virginian, 
resident  at  Van  Buren,  with  whom  and.  his  full-blood,  but 
genteel,  and  well-educated  Cherokee  wife,  a  romantic  pair, 
I  was  afterward  hospitably  entertained  at  their  pleasant 
home.  From  Judge  Pascal  I  received  much  information  as 
to  the  history,  habits,  and  condition  of  the  several  tribes 
of  southern  Indians,  such  as  materially  to  aid  me  in  pre- 
paring for  my  work. 

Above  Little  Rock  the  country  becomes  more  elevated 
and  broken,  the  spurs  of  the  Ozark  Mountains,  in  places, 
pointing  in  to  the  river,  and  terminating  on  its  banks  in 
craggy  and  abrupt  precipices,  forming  a  scenery  of  rugged 
sublimity  in  bold  contrast  with  the  lowlands  further  down. 

The  banks  of  the  Arkansas  in  this  region  afford  a  fine 
supply  of  steamboat  fuel  unknown  on  most  of  our  West- 


36  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ern  waters.  "Pine-knots,"  as  they  are  called,  being  the 
branches  and  knotty  portions  of  the  yellow  pine-tree,  per- 
fectly dead  and  dry,  and  containing  a  large  amount  of 
resinous  matter,  are  collected  by  the  settlers  and  piled  upon 
the  banks.  The  boatmen  buy  it  with  eagerness.  It  makes 
an  intense  heat,  sends  forth  volumes  of  black  smoke,  and 
urges  a  boat  up  to  her  utmost  capacity  of  speed. 

Nothing  of  note  occurred  during  the  remaining  three 
hundred  miles  of  our  trip  to  Fort  Smith.  The  old  boat 
performed  well,  and  we  reached  the  fort  upon  the  morning 
of  the  27th.  This  place  is  situated  upon  the  State  line,  the 
fort  itself  and  Government  buildings  being  on  the  territo- 
rial or  Choctaw  side,  and  a  thriving  village  below  the  line. 
A  large  Government  expenditure  has  been  made  here  ;  but 
all  operations  have  ceased,  and  probably  will  never  be  re- 
sumed. The  old  barracks  of  temporary  structure  were  still 
occupied  by  the  troops.  Here  I  made  the  acquaintance  of 
brother  Boyer,  the  stationed  preacher  for  Fort  Smith  and 
Van  Buren,  another  transfer  from  Pittsburg  Conference; 
also  of  other  kind  brethren. 

The  regular  trip  of  the  "Gallant"  terminated  here,  and 
my  freight  was  about  to  be  put  ashore.  The  captain  pro- 
posed, for  a  stipulated  sum,  to  go  up  to  my  place  of  desti- 
nation, some  thirty  miles  further,  and  discharge  it  there. 
This  was  extremely  desirable.  But,  then,  the  intercourse 
act  of  the  United  States  forbade  a  boat  going  up  into  the 
Indian  territory  without  leave ;  examinations  were  first  to 
be  made  for  whisky  and  contraband  goods  ;  and,  withal,  I 
was  without  passports  or  letters  of  introduction  of  any 
kind.  In  the  dilemma  I  sought  an  introduction  to  General 
Zachary  Taylor,  then  in  command  there,  explained  to  him 
my  situation  and  objects,  and  asked  his  counsel.  The 
General  received  me  with  his  wonted  urbanity,  and  advised 
me  to  get  on  the  boat  and  go  up  without  waiting  for  leave 
of  any  one,  provided  I  was  sure  of  being  recognized  and 
approved  by  the  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  on  my 
arrival.  This  was  all  I  wanted.  The  boat  was  chartered 


LANDED — NIGHT  ON  THE   BEACH.  37 

for  the  remainder  of  the  way.  Several  brethren  from  Fort 
Smith  accompanied  me  up,  and  at  five  o'clock,  P.  M.,  of 
the  same  clay  we  landed  upon  the  beach  at  the  foot  of  the 
bold  promontory  on  which  stands  old  Fort  Coffee,  destined 
to  be  the  site  of  our  future  operations.  By  dark  the 
freight  was  discharged.  The  boat's  crew  and  accompa- 
nying friends  bade  us  farewell,  and  soon  she  was  on  her 
downward  course,  leaving  us  to  the  peculiar  reflections  of 
the  hour. 

We  were  now  fairly  beyond  the  bounds  of  civilization, 
surrounded  by  two  powerful  Indian  tribes.  I  had  some 
childhood  reminiscences  of  Indian  life  in  the  early  settle- 
ment of  Ohio,  but  myself  had  scarcely  ever  shaken  the 
hand  of  a  red  man,  and  was,  to  a  great  extent,  unac- 
quainted with  their  habits  and  customs.  In  addition  to 
tliis,  I  had  never  "lain  out"  a  single  night.  The  scene 
was  novel.  Our  company  consisted  of  my  German,  his 
wife  and  child,  a  friend  from  Fort  Smith,  and  myself.  A 
lire  was  struck  upon  the  beach,  and  our  little  band  com- 
menced the  Avork  by  a  prayer  meeting.  It  was  a  solemn 
time.  We  invoked  the  blessing  of  God  upon  ourselves, 
our  distant  friends,  our  work,  and  especially  upon  the  be- 
nighted sons  of  the  forest,  upon  whose  soil  we  had  now 
kindled  our  fires.  The  premises,  though  but  a  few  hund- 
red yards  distant,  were  not  surveyed  that  evening;  but, 
after  taking  refreshment,  we  laid  ourselves  down  upon  the 
beach  and  slept  securely  under  the  care  of  Him  "whose 
eyelids  never  sleep." 


38  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER  III. 

CHOCTAW  COUNTRY  AND  PEOPLE. 

ON  the  following  morning,  April  28th,  we  surveyed  the 
premises,  formerly  a  military  station,  garrisoned  with  sol- 
diers and  filled  with  military  stores  and  implements  of 
war,  now  to  be  transformed  into  a  missionary  post,  whence 
should  go  forth  the  Word  of  Life,  with  all  the  gentler  and 
more  subduing  influences  of  the  Gospel  of  Peace. 

Large  appropriations  had  been  made  by  the  General 
Council  of  the  Choctaw  Nation  for  educational  purposes. 
These  acts  had  obtained  the  sanction  of  the  proper  depart- 
ment at  Washington,  and  had  now  the  force  of  law.  Hith- 
erto the  interest  of  the  sums  due  to  the  several  Indian  tribes 
had  been  paid  out  in  annual  dividends,  and  distribution 
made  per  caput  to  each  man,  woman,  and  child  of  the 
tribe — a  course  still  pursued  by  many  of  the  tribes.  The 
evils  of  this  annuity  system  had  long  been  apparent,  cre- 
ating a  dependence  upon  a  trifling  annual  stipend,  and 
weakening  the  motives  to  personal  exertion  and  self-reli- 
ance. The  more  intelligent  and  judicious  among  the  Choc- 
taws  were  not  slow  to  discern  this,  and  wisely  determined 
to  cut  off  the  annuities  and  to  apply  the  larger  proportion 
of  their  annual  income  to  purposes  of  education  and  gen- 
eral improvement. 

Probably  no  nation  on  earth  has  ever  applied  so  large  a 
proportion  of  its  public  revenue  to  the  cause  of  education. 
Distrusting  their  own  ability  to  manage  these  funds  judi- 
ciously, they  had,  by  law,  placed  the  larger  proportion  of 
the  amount  in  the  hands  of  the  Missionary  Boards  of  sev- 
eral different  religious  denominations,  already  laboring 
among  them,  to  be  used  in  the  manner  intended.  In  these 


SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATION.  39 

appropriations  the  Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  had  shared  largely.  Rev.  E.  R.  Ames, 
in  the  prosecution  of  his  work  as  Corresponding  Secretary, 
had  attended  in  person  the  session  of  their  General  Coun- 
cil, and  aided  by  his  advice  in  planning  the  system  of  edu- 
cation and  drawing  up  the  act  of  the  Council  which  made 
the  appropriations  and  provided  for  their  control.  Sub- 
sequently he  obtained  their  ratification  at  Washington, 
services  of  which  the  Choctaw  people  retained  a  grateful 
recollection.  The  Choctaws  had  been  the  most  extensive 
patrons  of  the  Government  school  for  Indians,  under  the 
supervision  of  Colonel  Richard  M.  Johnson,  in  Kentucky. 
They  had  seen  the  evil  of  sending  their  children  abroad, 
and  were  now  resolved  upon  a  system  of  home  education. 

Three  large  institutions  of  learning  were  provided  for  by 
the  act.  Two  of  these  were  placed  under  the  care  of  our 
Missionary  Society,  each  with  an  appropriation  of  six 
thousand  dollars  a  year  for  twenty  years,  with  the  con- 
dition that  the  Society  should  make  an  annual  appropri- 
ation additionally  of  one  thousand  dollars  to  each.  One 
of  theso  institutions  was  located  at  Fort  Coffee,  and  the 
other  at  an  interior  point  upon  Ki-e-mi-chi  River,  called 
"Nun-na-wa-ya."  The  Choctaw  National  Council  under- 
took to  manage  the  third  themselves  by  a  Board  of  Native 
Trustees  of  their  own  appointment,  with  the  aid  of  the 
United  States  Agent  resident  among  them.  An  eligible 
site  was  selected  near  their  Council  House,  and  the  name 
of  "Spencer  Academy"  was  assumed  in  honor  of  the 
Secretary  of  War.  Liberal  appropriations  were  also  made 
to  other  schools  already  in  existence  under  the  care  of  other 
missionary  organizations. 

Under  the  removal  policy  of  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment, this  people  had  been  transferred  from  their  original 
homes  east  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  mainly  in  the 
State  of  Mississippi,  and  placed  upon  the  lands  now  occu- 
pied by  them.  Some  ten  years,  more  or  less,  had  been 
occupied  in  their  removal.  Their  entire  number  was  about 


40  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

twenty  thousand,  near  two -thirds  of  whom  had  already 
been  removed,  and  the  remaining  third  were  still  behind. 
Since  that  time  the  removal  of  the  entire  tribe  has  been 
completed. 

The  lands  assigned  to  the  tribe  embraced  a  large  tract  of 
country  lying  west  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  State  of 
Arkansas  ;  having  the  Arkansas  River  on  the  north  divid- 
ing them  from  the  Cherokees,  and  Red  River  on  the  south 
separating  them  from  Texas,  being  the  most  southerly  por- 
tion of  what  is  known  as  the  "Indian  Territory."  The 
breadth  of  this,  their  new  national  domain,  from  north  to 
south,  was  about  one  hundred  miles,  and  its  extent  west- 
ward probably  two  hundred  or  more.  Within  these  limits, 
as  will  hereafter  be  seen,  are  embraced  also  their  kindred 
tribe,  the  Chickasaws. 

This  tract  of  country  is  in  a  high  degree  picturesque.  A 
ridge  of  mountains  intersects  it  from  east  to  west,  and 
single  mountainous  elevations  are  found  in  many  places 
rising  up  from  the  plain;  some  oblong,  some  conical, 
others  in  various  forms,  and  greatly  diversifying  the  scenery. 
The  mountain  sides  are  generally  covered  with  a  heavy 
growth  of  yellow  or  pitch  pine,  while  the  level  lands  are- 
divided  between  prairie  and  woodland.  The  small  prairie 
valleys  between  the  different  mountain  ridges  are  strikingly 
beautiful. 

The  country  is  well  watered.  Health  is  in  the  main 
good,  though  somewhat  interrupted  during  the  Summer 
months  by  intermittent  bilious  disease.  The  lowlands 
upon  the  streams  are  fertile ;  some  of  the  wooded  uplands 
also.  On  the  south  or  Red  River  side  are  some  fine  cotton 
plantations,  owned  and  managed  by  natives,  generally  of 
the  mixed  blood.  The  prairies  between  the  Arkansas  and 
Red  River  are  poor,  bearing,  in  their  natural  state,  a  thin 
coat  of  grass,  but  wholly  unfit  for  cultivation  or  continued 
pasturage.  As  a  whole,  the  Choctaw  lands  are  quite  infe- 
rior to  those  of  the  Cherokees  on  the  north,  or  of  Texas  on 
the  south.  The  lands  are  held  in  common  by  the  tribe, 


GOVERNMENT — AN   INFIDEL   PARTY.  41 

each  having  his  option  to  reside  where  he  chooses  ;  only  so 
that  no  new  settlement  is  permitted  within  a  prescribed  dis- 
tance of  one  previously  occupied. 

We  found  the  Choctaws  living  under  a  regular  form  of 
government  with  a  written  Constitution  and  laws,  modeled 
after  our  own.  Their  Legislature  consisted  of  a  General 
Council  with  two  branches,  an  upper  and  lower  house; 
the  Representatives  being  elected  by  the  people.  The  ex- 
ecutive authority  was  vested  in  three  chiefs,  elected  at  stated 
intervals ;  the  nation  being  divided  into  three  districts,  of 
which  each  had  its  chief;  and  a  majority  of  these  held 
a  veto  power  upon  legislative  action.  They  had  also  a 
judiciary  constituted  by  law.  These  forms,  however,  were, 
as  might  be  expected  in  their  condition  of  society,  loosely 
and  inefficiently  administered,  and  mingled  up  with  many 
relics  of  their  former  customs. 

This  triple  lodgment  of  executive  power  had  obtained 
previous  to  their  removal  West.  At  the  time  of  removal 
the  three  chiefs  were  divided  in  sentiment  and  policy.  Two 
of  them,  Push-ma-ta-ha  and  Puck-she-nub-bee,  were  favor- 
able to  the  efforts  of  missionaries  and  to  the  cause  of 
morals  and  education ;  while  the  third,  Me-shu-la-tub-bee, 
opposed  all  efforts  for  the  civilization  and  moral  and  intel- 
lectual improvement  of  his  people.  Upon  this  question  the 
nation  also  was  divided,  and  the  new  settlement  was  con- 
trolled by  party  affinities  and  predilections.  The  first  two 
leaders,  followed  by  the  more  enlightened  and  orderly  por- 
tion of  the  tribe,  settled  in  the  south  of  their  country,  upon 
Red  River,  accompanied  by  their  missionaries ;  while  the 
infidel  and  more  savage  part,  under  the  leadership  of  their 
chief,  took  possession  of  the  northern  and  less  inviting  sec- 
tion lying  upon  the  Arkansas.  The  three  districts  took  the 
names  of  the  three  several  chiefs  then  in  power,  which  they 
still  retain.  Among  this  last  and  rudest  portion  of  the 
tribe  our  lot  was  cast. 

FORT  COFFEE,  the  site  of  our  intended  institution,  was  in 
the  northern  extreme  of  the  Choctaw  country,  upon  the 

4 


42  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

south  bank  of  the  Arkansas  Kiver.  The  position  is  com- 
manding and  beautiful  in  a  high  degree ;  situated  upon  an 
elevated  projecting  bluff,  overlooking  the  country  of  the 
Cherokees  upon  the  opposite  shore,  and  affording  a  fine 
view  of  the  river  below  and  above.  A  precipice  of  some 
sixty  feet  overhangs  the  river  in  semicircular  or  crescent 
form,  with  a  ravine  below  and  lowlands  above.  Upon 
the  brink  was  the  guard-house,  surmounted  with  a  flag- 
staff. From  the  brink  is  a  gradual  ascent  of  several 
hundred  yards  to  the  main  fort  buildings.  A  narrow  neck 
joins  the  promontory  to  the  uplands  in  the  rear.  The 
grounds  were  set  in  blue-grass  and  covered  with  tall  forest 
trees  and  an  undergrowth  of  young  cedars. 

From  an  inscription  upon  the  wall  of  one  of  the  build- 
ings we  learned  that  the  fort  was  established  in  June,  1834, 
and  evacuated  in  November,  1838.  The  reason  assigned 
for  the  relinquishment  of  the  post  was,  I  believe,  that  the 
garrison  might  be  stationed  more  immediately  upon  the 
State  line,  such  being  the  situation  of  Fort  Smith.  After 
its  abandonment  by  the  Government,  the  site  had  been 
taken  up  as  a  claim  by  a  shrewd  half-breed  Indian,  and, 
upon  the  location  of  our  institution  at  that  point,  we  were 
under  the  necessity  of  paying  him  largely  to  relinquish. 

The  principal  buildings  of  the  fort  were  arranged  in  a 
hollow  square,  embracing  an  area  of  about  one  hundred 
feet  square  within ;  three  sides  being  built  up,  and  the 
fourth  open,  except  the  spots  occupied  by  magazines  ;  the 
intervening  spaces  having  been  once  filled  with  pickets 
which  were  now  fallen  down.  Besides  these  there  were 
numerous  other  buildings  for  various  uses,  without  the  reg- 
ular line  of  inclosure.  The  aspect  of  the  place  was  cheerful 
and  inviting,  though  four  years  of  neglect  had  left  the  build- 
ings in  a  dilapidated  state ;  all  needing  repairs,  and  some 
requiring  to  be  removed  and  their  places  supplied. 

Early  on  the  day  after  our  arrival  we  were  waited  upon 
by  Major  William  Armstrong,  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs  in  the  South- West,  and  also  United  States  Agent  fot 


MAJOR   WILLIAM   ARMSTRONG.  43 

the  Choctaws,  who  gave  us  a  cordial  reception,  and  with  J. 
H.  Heald,  Esq.,  a  prominent  Indian  trader,  furnished  us 
with  teams  and  hands,  and  afforded  every  needed  aid. 

Among  the  small  number  of  white  men  that  are  found 
on  Indian  ground  are  a  few  of  the  very  best,  and  a  larger 
number  of  the  very  worst,  specimens  of  our  fallen  human- 
ity. The  two  gentlemen  just  referred  to,  the  former  of 
whom  has  since  passed  away  from  time,  deserve  to  be 
ranked  among  the  few  who  have  maintained,  in  all  their 
intercourse  with  the  Indians,  an  unblemished  reputation. 

Major  Armstrong  was  a  native  of  Tennessee,  and  a 
brother  to  General  Robert  Armstrong,  late  Consul  to  Liv- 
erpool, and  long  the  intimate  friend  of  General  Jackson. 
Another  brother  had  held  the  place  of  Choctaw  Agent,  and, 
dying,  was  succeeded  by  the  acting  incumbent.  Major 
Armstrong  was  one  of  "nature's  noblemen;"  of  command- 
ing person  and  noble  bearing ;  courteous,  gentlemanly,  and 
hospitable ;  with  a  soul  that  scorned  the  thought  of  profit- 
ing by  a  mean  act,  whether  at  the  expense  of  a  white  or  red 
man.  He  was  emphatically  the  friend  of  the  Indian,  and 
especially  of  the  Choctaw ;  and,  as  a  result,  he  possessed 
their  confidence  and  even  affection  in  a  very  high  degree. 

An  incident  will  illustrate  this,  while  it,  at  the  same  tinn-, 
throws  some  light  /upon  Choctaw  character.  During  the 
harassing  wars  with  the  Seminoles  in  Florida,  it  was  pro- 
posed by  the  Government,  as  a  means  of  ferreting  them  out 
from  their  lurking-places,  to  employ  against  them  some  of 
the  removed  Indians  known  to  be  loyal  and  warlike.  The 
Choctaws  were  called  upon,  and  soon  a  large  band  respond- 
ed to  the  summons,  assembled  at  the  Agency,  erected  their 
war-pole,  and  began  their  war-songs.  Learning,  however, 
that  they  were  to  be  mustered  into  service  under  the  com- 
mand of  the  officers  of  the  regular  army,  they  refused,  and 
demanded  that  they  should  be  led  by  their  agent  and  friend, 
Major  Armstrong.  This  being  denied,  they  disbanded, 
returned  to  their  homes,  and  left  the  Government  to  carry 
on  its  war  as  best  it  could. 


44  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Major  Armstrong  highly  approved  the  educational  move- 
ments among  this  people,  encouraged  missionary  labor, 
and  vigorously  seconded  every  effort  for  their  improvement. 
This  much  is  due  to  the  memory  of  the  Indian's  friend  and 
protector,  a  worthy  man  and  faithful  public  officer.  Would 
that  among  the  appointees  of  the  Government  to  Indian 
Agencies  such  examples  were  not  so  rare ! 

Mr.  Heald  was  an  Eastern  man,  and  a  gentleman  of  the 
first  stamp,  liberally  educated,  and  possessing  fine  business 
attainments.  He  was  a  member  of  the  house  of  Berthelet, 
Heald  &  Co.,  the  first  being  a  Canadian,  and  the  third 
member,  Bob  Jones,  a  half-breed  Choctaw.  They  were  the 
licensed  traders  of  the  nation,  had  establishments  at  differ- 
ent points,  and  supplied  the  natives  with  goods  of  good 
quality  and  at  fair  rates,  scorning  to  deceive  or  take  advant- 
age of  their  ignorance;  a  great  contrast  with  the  character 
of  most  Indian  traders.  Here  were  no  conspiracies  between 
agents  and  traders  to  defraud  the  Indians ;  no  licentious 
examples  to  debauch  them. 

Mr.  Heald  was  amiable,  generous,  and  humane.  It  was 
only  to  be  regretted  that  he  was  of  too  fine  a  mold  for  the 
rugged  contacts  and  associations  of  the  frontier.  Of  this 
we  shall  hereafter  see  evidence.  He  subsequently  became  a 
member  of  a  house  in  New  Orleans.  Both  these  gentlemen 
resided  at  the  Agency,  about  five  miles  distant  from  our 
station ;  and  from  the  hands  of  them  both  myself  and  fam- 
ily received  many  kind  attentions,  that  contributed  no  little 
to  soften  down  the  asperities  of  our  exposed  situation. 


MISSION   LABORS.  45 


CHAPTER   IV. 

MISSION  LABORS  — INTERCOURSE  WITH  TRIBE. 

OUR  destination  was  now  reached ;  and  the  magnitude 
and  pressing  character  of  our  work  opened  up  before  us. 
The  institution,  under  the  name  of  "Fort  Coffee  Acade- 
my," was  to  consist  of  two  departments ;  that  for  males  at 
the  place  bearing  the  name ;  that  for  females  at  New  Hope, 
some  five  miles  distant  and  near  the  Agency. 

The  outlines  of  the  plan  were  laid  down  in  the  act  of  the 
General  Council.  The  students  were  to  be  selected  by  the 
Council,  and  to  be  boarded,  clothed,  and  instructed  at  the 
expense  of  the  institution.  The  course  for  the  boys  was  to 
include  instruction  in  agriculture  and  mechanic  arts,  as  well 
as  literature  and  morals.  The  females  were  to  be  instructed 
in  appropriate  domestic  labors. 

My  appointment,  as  Superintendent,  embraced  the  control 
of  funds ;  employment  of  teachers ;  oversight  of  school ; 
planning,  contracting  for,  and  superintending  buildings ; 
farming  operations ;  in  short,  the  entire  management  of  all 
its  affairs.  The  only  proviso  was  that  the  books  of  the 
institution  should  at  all  times  be  open  to  the  inspection  of 
three  trustees,  educated  natives  appointed  by  the  Council, 
but  claiming  no  control  over  disbursements.  Subsequently 
a  committee  was  appointed  by  the  Conference  to  act  in  con- 
junction with  the  agent,  with  whom  I  should  make  annual 
settlements.  In  addition  to  this  I  had  a  pastoral  charge 
embracing  the  institution  and  country  contiguous. 

Some  building  and  a  large  amount  of  repairing  was 
needed  at  Fort  Coffee,  and  the  male  department  was  ex- 
pected to  be  open  for  students  the  ensuing  Autumn  ;  while 


46  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

for  the  female  department  at  New  Hope,  the  beginning  was 
yet  to  be  made.  The  farming  lands  attached  to  the  prem- 
ises were  to  be  cultivated,  and  supplies  raised.  We  were 
now  in  the  last  days  of  April ;  no  preparations  had  been 
made ;  no  laborers,  no  teams  for  farming,  to  say  nothing 
of  mechanics  and  building  material.  Our  whole  colony 
consisted  of  my  German,  his  wife  and  child,  and  myself; 
and  our  only  domestic  animal  was  a  large  dog  that  I  had 
bought  upon  the  Mississippi.  And  so  exceedingly  timid 
were  my  Germans  among  "the  Indians,"  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  I  could  leave  them  for  an  hour. 

We  lacked  funds,  too.  The  construction  placed  upon 
the  act  was,  that  our  annual  appropriation  did  not  com- 
mence to  run  from  the  date  of  its  passage,  but  from  the 
time  of  our  actually  entering  upon  the  work.  So.  we  had 
nothing  to  begin  with ;  and  our  building  fund  was  to  be 
saved  after  paying  current  expenses.  The  missionary  ap- 
propriation of  one  thousand  dollars  had  been  placed  in  my 
hands ;  upon  my  own  responsibility  I  borrowed  a  thousand 
more ;  and  this  was  all  we  had  for  outfit  and  expenditures 
till  means  should  be  received  from  the  department.  Neces- 
sity, however,  drove  us  to  effort,  and  Providence  kindly 
opened  our  way. 

The  first  Sabbath  I  went  to  New  Hope,  and  preached  to 
a  mingled  company  of  whites,  blacks,  and  Indians,  formed 
some  acquaintances,  and  was  kindly  entertained  by  Major 
Armstrong,  with  whom  I  always  found  a  hospitable  home. 
Early  in  the  week  following  I  was  off  for  Fort  Smith,  Van 
Buren,  and  adjacent  country  below  the  State  line,  in  search 
of  teams,  hands,  etc.  In  the  course  of  about  ten  days  I 
found  myself  in  possession  of  a  good  substantial  team ; 
hands  were  at  work  upon  the  farm,  a  large  quantity  of  pine 
lumber,  shingles,  etc.,  had  been  delivered  at  our  landing,  and 
a  good  mechanical  force  were  at  work  upon  the  buildings ; 
the  desolate,  forsaken  aspect  suddenly  gave  way  to  the  life 
and  bustle  of  agricultural  and  mechanical  industry. 

An    occurrence,    however,    of    which   we   little   thought, 


REMODELING   A   FORT.  47 

came  very  near  arresting  our  building  operations.  A  large 
amount  of  lumber  was  lying  upon  the  beach.  The  river 
was  quite  low,  and  no  indication,  to  our  eyes,  of  a  rise — 
when  suddenly  came  rolling  down  the  stream  a  torrent  of 
water,  swelling  it  with  a  rapidity  known  probably  to  no 
other  stream  in  the  wide  world.  An  exciting  scene  ensued. 
All  hands  and  teams  fell  to,  and,  by  great  effort,  our  mate- 
rial was  saved  from  starting  for  the  lower  country  on  its 
own  responsibility.  The  Arkansas  is  given  to  such  freaks, 
especially  at  the  time  of  its  annual  overflow  called  the 
"June  rise."  The  weather  may  be  dry,  the  sky  clear,  the 
great  channel  almost  bare  in  the  evening,  and  by  morning  a 
perfept  torrent  be  rolling  by.  This  hint  was  enough  to 
keep  us  wide  awake  thereafter. 

A  plan  was  soon  made  out  for  the  requisite  changes  in 
adapting  the  buildings  to  the  new  occupancy.  Near  the 
center  of  the  north  line  of  buildings  stood  the  command- 
ant's quarters,  the  most  imposing  edifice  of  the  group. 
This,  upon  examination  by  the  mechanics,  was  pronounced 
too  far  gone  for  repair,  and  was  doomed  to  be  demolished 
and  its  place  supplied  by  another,  intended  as  the  residence 
of  the  superintendent's  family,  etc.  On  the  left,  in  the 
same  line,  stood  the  warehouse  reserved  for  the  same  uses, 
and  on  the  right  a  building  appropriated  as  our  store-room. 
Upon  the  east  stood  a  line  of  barracks  which  we  converted 
into  a  dining-hall,  with  kitchen  in  the  roar  ;  a  large  school- 
room, occupied  also  for  a  chapel,  and  a  row  of  dormitories 
for  students.  On  the  west  was  a  similar  line,  part  of  which 
were  set  apart  as  lodgings  for  occasional  guests,  teachers, 
and  other  employe's,  and  the  remaining  rooms  to  be  occu- 
pied by  students.  The  magazines  were  removed,  and  the 
space  on  the  south  left  open.  The  sutler's  store,  without 
the  lines,  was  set  apart  as  a  residence  for  the  cook  and  his 
family,  and  the  hospital  converted  into  a  barn.  In  short, 
the  whole  arrangement  was  turned  over  and  made  to  con- 
form to  the  new  order  of  things. 

Occasional  developments  were  made  during  the  process 


48  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

that  gave  to  our  men  some  amusing  ideas  of  the  habits  of 
former  occupants ;  none  more  so  than  the  exploration  of 
our  well.  This  was  a  wide,  deep  excavation,  much  of  the 
way  blown  out  of  solid  rock,  which  had  supplied  the  entire 
garrison.  The  great  windlass  was  worked  by  a  large  wheel 
similar  to  the  pilot-wheel  of  a  steamboat.  It  yielded  a 
bountiful  supply  of  pure  freestone  water;  but  large  accumu- 
lations had  been  made  at  its  bottom  of  unknown  substances, 
bedded  in  some  ten  feet  of  mud,  which  did  not  materially 
improve  its  flavor  or  supposed  healthfulness.  We  were  told 
that  the  abundance  of  the  supply  rendered  hopeless  any 
attempt  to  draw  off  the  water,  preparatory  to  a  ''cleaning 
out."  But  we  resolved  upon  a  trial.  An  Irishman  from 
Fort  Smith  was  employed  for  subterranean  operations. 
Two  half-barrels  were  rigged  to  the  massive  windlass.  A 
respite  of  a  day's  labor  was  proclaimed  to  all  the  mechanics 
and  laborers,  and  all  hands  joined  in  the  common  interest. 
At  an  early  hour  it  was  commenced,  the  men  working  at 
the  windlass,  and  resting  by  turns,  so  as  to  keep  the  water 
rapidly  passing  off.  By  nightfall  it  was  done  ;  water,  mud, 
and  all  thrown  off,  the  rocky  bottom  gained,  and  the  solid 
contents  brought  up  and  ranged  in  line,  as  follows :  one 
half-barrel,  three  large  wooden  well-buckets,  one  painted 
bucket,  five  large  tin  buckets,  five  small  tin  buckets,  two 
coffee-pots,  three  tin  pans,  five  tin  cups,  one  quart  cup,  two 
table-spoons,  one  curry-comb,  one  bridle-bit,  one  soldier's 
cap,  and  sundry  other  articles  too  tedious  to  mention. 
What  kind  of  compound  would  be  formed  for  our  daily 
beverage  from  these  ingredients,  I  leave  to  better  chemists 
to  determine.  But  ever  after  we  were  abundantly  supplied 
with  that  indispensable  to  health  and  comfort,  pure  cold 
water. 

The  Spring  proved  rainy,  and  our  work  was  somewhat 
retarded.  Several  of  our  hands,  too,  suffered  from  sickness. 
Still  the  hand  of  God  was  upon  us  for  good,  and  our  work 
prospered.  Upon  the  24th  of  May  we  fini.shed  planting 
corn,  of  which,  in  the  Fall,  we  had  a  fine  yield.  Our  me- 


LONELINESS — MENTAL   EXERCISES.  49 

chanical  improvements,  too,  went  forward  rapidly.  About 
two  months  had  now  passed  since,  amid  the  snows  of  the 
North,  I  had  received  my  appointment  to  this  field  A  The 
change  had  been  made,  some  two  thousand  miles  traveled,  all 
our  preparations  gone  through,  and  our  work  was  now  fairly 
under  way,  with  a  good  prospect,  by  God's  blessing,  of 
meeting,  at  the  fixed  time,  the  expectations  of  all  concerned. 
It  is  hard,  for  those  that  have  never  realized,  to  imagine 
the  solitary  feelings  produced  by  a  transition  from  home, 
domestic  relations,  social  and  religious  privileges,  to  a  state 
of  almost  absolute  seclusion.  Subsequent  years,  in  a  de- 
gree, inured  me ;  but  it  cost  many  a  struggle  to  gain  the 
victory,  and  even  yet  it  is  but  partial.  It  matters  not  that 
we  arc  surrounded  by  beings  possessed  of  a  common  hu- 
manity, if  there  be  no  chords  of  mutual  sympathetic  feeling. 
And  so  different  are  the  habits  of  civilized  and  savage  life 
that  there  are  but  few  of  these.  Our  intercourse  with  the 
moving,  thinking  world  was  altogether  through  the  mails; 
and  these,  irregular  and  unreliable,  often  led  to  disappoint- 
ment. Generally  they  brought  reports  of  health  and  com- 
fort from  loved  ones  left  behind,  and  sometimes  of  sickness 
and  kind  attentions  of  friends,  at  which  the  unbidden  tear 
would  fall.  Sometimes  they  brought  tidings  of  death. 
Never  shall  I  forget  the  feelings  produced  by  the  announce- 
ment from  a  single  mail  of  the  deaths  of  three  valued 
friends,  one  of  whom  I  had  left  awaiting  his  change,  and 
two  others  cut  suddenly  down  at  the  noonday  of  life. 
Suddenly,  solemnly,  the  news  from  afar  fell  upon  us.  But 

"  There  's  mercy  in  every  place ;" 

and  even  here  we  had  precious  seasons  of  communion  with 
God. 

I  preached  on  the  Sabbath  alternately  at  Fort  Coffee  and 
New  Hope.  Our  mixed  congregations  were  attentive,  and 
seed  was  sown  which,  I  humbly  trust,  may  bring  forth 
fruit  unto  eternal  life.  Class  meetings,  too,  were  not  for- 
gotten, though  conducted  in  a  very  simple  and  primitive 

5 


50  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

form.  Under  date  of  May  18th,  I  find  I  made  the  fol- 
lowing record : 

"Even  here  we  find  sweet  access  to  God  in  prayer.  We 
feel  that  we  are  in  the  order  of  God  and  doing  his  work, 
and  we  trust  in  God  that  our  'labor'  will  not  be  'in  vain.' 
I  have  not  had  a  single  doubt  or  misgiving  with  regard  to 
the  indications  of  Providence  in  this  quarter  since  I  en- 
tered upon  the  work.  Every  successive  step  confirms  me 
in  the  belief  that  there  is  here  a  'great  and  effectual'  door 
opened.  Why  should  we  remain  in  the  densely-populated 
settlements  and  crowd  each  other,  preaching  to  those  upon 
whose  heads  a  fearful  load  of  guilt  is  already  accumulated 
by  long-continued  rejection  of  the  Gospel  message,  while 
thousands  upon  thousands  are  perishing  in  their  own  native 
darkness  ?  Let  us  rather  follow  them  to  their  own  wilds. 
With  them  let  us 

'  Range  the  wide  woods  where  the  council  fires  curl, 
And  there  the  broad  banner  of  Jesus  unfurl.' 

But  'who  is  sufficient  for  these  things?'  Who  has  the 
grace,  discretion,  self-denial,  and  persevering  firmness  requi- 
site for  so  great  a  work  ?  For  this  we  cast  ourselves  upon 
God  and  the  prayers  of  the  Church." 

As  time  and  opportunity  allowed  I  mingled  freely  with 
the  natives,  and  endeavored  to  acquaint  myself  with  their 
condition,  habits,  and  prejudices.  So  greatly  have  the  In- 
dians been  deceived  and  imposed  upon  by  the- whites  that 
it  is  no  matter  of  surprise  they  should  look  with  suspicion 
upon  all  strangers ;  but  their  confidence,  once  gained,  is 
implicit.  My  attachment  to  this  people  increased  with  ac- 
quaintance ;  my  whole  intercourse  with  them  was  agree- 
able ;  and,  while  I  saw  much  in  their  condition  and  char- 
acter to  regret,  I  also  saw  many  things  to  love  and  admire. 

The  removal  of  this  people,  as  has  been  the  case  with 
most  of  the  removed  tribes,  was  followed  with  great  dimi- 
nution of  their  numbers.  Ignorant,  improvident,  without 
the  foresight  necessary  to  prepare  for  the  change,  having 
none  to  care  for  them  beyond  the  completion  of  a  contract 


MANNER   OF   LIVING.  51 

for  delivery,  like  so  many  cattle,  their  exposure  brought  on 
disease  in  various  forms,  and  their  numbers  were  fearfully 
thinned.  Melancholy  and  dejected  with  their  compulsory 
removal,  years  elapsed  without  much  effort  for  improve- 
ment. An  amusing  incident,  illustrative  of  their  feelings 
on  leaving  their  old  homes,  and  their  sense  of  the  injustice 
done  them,  was  related  to  me.  At  the  time  that  a  large 
party  were  being  ferried  across  the  Mississippi,  the  boat 
about  making  its  last  trip,  among  the  remaining  fragments 
that  we/e  thrown  in  was  a  shrewd,  waggish  Choctaw,  quite 
drunk.  He  was  unceremoniously  heaved  into  the  boat, 
and,  lying  upon  his  back  as  she  shoved  off  from  the  east- 
ern shore,  he  exclaimed:  "Farewell,  white  man  !"  with  an 
oath,  "  Steal  my  land  !" 

Time,  however,  was  in  a  degree  reconciling  them  to  their 
new  homes.  Dispersed  over  the  country,  they  had  selected 
the  best  lands,  erected  cabins,  cleared  small  patches  upon 
which  they  raised  a  little  corn  and  other  common  vege- 
tables. Their  chief  property  was  in  their  cattle.  A  com- 
mon Indian  frequently  owned  fifty  or  a  hundred  head. 
The  Winters  being  mild  and  short,  they  subsisted  all  the 
year  without  being  fed,  wintering  mostly  upon  the  cane, 
fat  all  the  year,  except  a  short  time  in  early  Spring,  when 
the  warm  weather  drove  them  from  the  cane-brakes  beforo 
grass  was  sufficient.  Many  of  them  attained  a  great  size. 
Their  beef  was  a  staple  article  of  diet,  and  the  chief  induce- 
ment to  raise  them,  their  habits  being  too  careless  and  un- 
thrifty to  profit  much  from  the  milk.  Some  were  in  better 
circumstances,  especially  mixed  bloods,  owning  slaves  whose 
industry  and  foresight  were  superior  to  their  own.  Somo 
of  these  had  good  farms,  with  comfortable  improvements, 
and  a  few  were  the  owners  of  considerable  cotton  plant- 
ations. 

The  Choctaws  are  a  mild,  pacific  people,  though  reck- 
oned one  of  the  most  warlike  tribes.  The  men  of  the  tribe 
are  generally  spare,  with  small  limbs  and  neatly-formed 
hand  and  foot,  while  the  women  are  more  robust  and  cor- 


52  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

pulent.  It  is  the  boast  of  the  nation  that  they  have 
"never  shed  a  white  man's  blood."  Perhaps  no  tribe  on 
our  frontier  is  so  loyal  to  the  United  States  Government 
as  the  Choctaws.  As  a  general  thing  they  are  strictly 
honest,  thefts  being  rarely  known  among  them.  Naturally 
they  are  pensive  and  rather  inclined  to  melancholy.  Sui- 
cides are  frequent.  They  are  indolent  and  inactive,  and  the 
drudgery  is  mainly  performed  by  the  squaws.  A  Choctaw 
is  rarely  seen  beyond  the  limits  of  his  own  tribe. 

The  language  of  the  Choctaws  is  mild  and  soft,  and  to 
the  ear  of  a  stranger  it  lacks  articulateness.  The  tone  of 
conversation  is  monotonous,  and  the  nasal  predominates. 
The  name  of  the  tribe  itself  has  not,  among  them,  that 
harsh  pronunciation  which  our  English  orthography  indi- 
cates, but  is  softly  pronounced  "Chah-tah."  When  en- 
gaged in  animated  conversation  their  words  are  sung  out, 
especially  by  the  women,  with  quite  a  tune.  The  language 
is  easily  acquired,  and  some  of  the  older  missionaries  speak 
it  fluently.  In  their  written  language,  as  arranged  by  the 
missionaries,  they  use  our  alphabet,  having  hymns  and  por- 
tions of  the  Scriptures  translated  for  their  use.  Like  most 
other  Indians,  they  laugh  a  great  deal,  and,  when  sober,  are 
extremely  gentle  and  inoffensive  in  their  habits. 

In  common  with  Indians  generally,  strong  drink  is  their 
great  bane.  They  have  rigid  laws  against  the  introduction 
of  ardent  spirits  into  their  country,  and  a  set  of  ministerial 
officers  known  as  "light  horse,"  a  sort  of  patrol  band,  are 
specially  charged  with  its  execution.  Whenever  found,  the 
barrels  or  jugs  are  unceremoniously  tomahawked,  and  the 
contents  poured  out.  Several  of  the  Indian  tribes  could 
boast  a  prohibitory  act  years  before  the  "Maine  Law" 
originated.  But  no  such  law  exists  among  their  "  civil- 
ized" neighbors.  Whisky  in  large  quantities  is  brought, 
by  unprincipled  men,  to  the  very  line  of  the  State,  and 
they  cross  over,  and  drink,  and  smuggle  large  quantities 
into  their  country.  Under  its  influence  murders  are  com- 
mon, and  not  unfrequently  the  murder  of  near  relations. 


WESLEY   AND    METHODISM.  53 

Missionary  labors  had  been  bestowed  upon  this  people 
for  many  years  prior  to  their  removal,  and  some  thousands 
of  them  were  in  actual  membership  in  the  several  Churches, 
about  one  thousand  in  our  own  Church.  The  missionaries 
of  the  American  Board  accompanied  them  to  their  new 
homes,  and  those  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  fol- 
lowed them  by  appointments  from  year  to  year.  But 
these  labors  had  been  confined  to  the  south  of  the  Nation. 
Scarcely  a  semblance  of  religion  was  found  in  the  north. 

The  Fall  previous  to  our  appointment  the  venerable 
Bishop  Roberts  had  made  a  tour  upon  this  portion,  in 
company  with  Rev.  E.  R.  Ames.  On  his  return  he  re- 
marked, with  his  characteristic  good-humor,  that  "  the  near- 
est approach  to  Methodism  he  had  seen  in  the  country  was 
a  boy  named  '  Wesley.'  '  A  short  time  after  my  arrival 
I  was  ferried  across  a  stream  by  some  boys  of  mixed  col- 
ors, one  of  whom,  a  little  quadroon,  was  called  by  his 
comrades  "  Wesley."  Ah !  thought  I,  I  have  found  the 
Bishop's  boy  ;  here  is  the  Methodism  of  this  country. 

In  some  respects,  the  tone  of  public  sentiment  on  points 
of  morals  is  more  elevated  among  these  semi-civilized  In- 
dians than  among  their  /w/fy-civilized  neighbors  of  the 
States.  An  incident  may  illustrate  this.  Conversing  with 
a  member  of  the  Choctaw  National  Council,  son  to  one 
of  their  ex-chiefs,  I  incidentally  inquired  the  time  of  meet- 
ing of  their  Council.  He  replied :  "  The  first  Monday  in 
October."  Correcting  himself  soon,  he  said:  "No;  the 
first  Tuesday  in  October.  Formerly  we  met  on  Monday ; 
but  this  compelled  us  to  travel  on  Sunday,  which  we  were 
unwilling  to  do,  and  the  day  was  changed." 

At  the  time  of  my  coming  among  them,  they  were  begin- 
ning to  recover  from  the  shock  of  removal.  The  climate 
proved  healthy  for  them,  their  numbers  were  again  on  the 
increase,  and  some  indications  of  general  improvement  in 
their  condition  were  appearing. 


54  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER    V. 

CHEROKEE    SIDE  — TRIP    TO    TA-LE-QUAH. 

NEAR  two  months  since  our  arrival  had  now  been  spent 
in  labors  incident  to  our  enterprise.  Already  the  place  had 
assumed  a  new  aspect.  Our  men,  though  collected  at  ran- 
dom, labored  agreeably  together  under  the  oversight  of  a 
trusty  and  experienced  foreman,  who,  with  his  family,  re- 
sided with  us.  It  was  humorously  remarked  by  one  of  the 
mechanics,  that  they  had  "shingled  an  acre,"  as  a  single 
item  of  their  labor. 

Previous  to  leaving  Indiana  I  had,  through  the  Missionary 
Secretary,  arranged  with  the  Bishops  for  the  transfer  to  our 
work    of  Rev.    Henry    C.    Benson,    he   having   consented. 
Brother  Benson  had  graduated  at  Asbury  University  the 
year  preceding,  had  entered  Indiana  Conference,  and  was 
then  engaged  in  the  labors  of  a  circuit.     He  was  to  take 
the  place   of  principal   teacher  in   our  academy,   and,   till 
opening,  was  to  aid  in  preparatory  labors.     After  receiv- 
ing his  appointment  to  Fort  Coffee,  he  was  joined  in  mar- 
riage to  Miss  Matilda  Williamson,  daughter  of  T.  W.  Wil- 
liamson,  Esq.,   of  Greencastle,   Indiana.     I   mention   this 
estimable  couple  the  more  particularly,  as  they  were  after- 
ward so  agreeably  associated  with  us,  and  bore  so  cheerful 
and  faithful  a  part  in  all  our  labors.     At  the  time  of  which 
I  write  we  were  in  daily  expectation  of  their  arrival,  upon 
which  I  expected  to  start  on  my  return  .to  the  States  and 
bring   out  my  family,  with  additional   supplies ;   leaving, 
meanwhile,  the  management  of  the  whole  concern  in  the 
hands  of  brother  Benson,  whose  habits  and  acquirements 
rendered  him,  though  young,  fully  competent  to  the  charge. 


OFF    FOR   TAH-LE-QUAII.  55 

Brother  Benson  had  maintained  a  high  standing  in  the 
University,  and  graduated  with  honor.  The  association 
proved  fortunate  in  its  influence  upon  the  society  of  our 
mission  as  well  as  to  the  interests  of  the  institution. 

While  awaiting  their  arrival,  and  expecting  to  float  down 
the  Arkansas  upon  the  annual  rise,  an  event  occurred  which 
led  to  a  change  of  plans  and  to  my  return  by  an  unexpected 
route.  A  Delaware  Indian  arrived  at  our  place,  sent  as  an 
express  messenger  from  the  Cherokee  Council-Ground  at 
Tah-le-quah,  where  a  general  council  of  Western  and 
South- Western  Indians  was  then  in  session,  inviting  me  to 
come  to  the  Council,  spend  a  few  days  there,  and  thence 
accompany  a  party  of  missionaries  and  Indians  who  would 
be  going  north  to  their  homes  on  Missouri  River,  visiting 
the  missions  by  the  way,  and  returning  by  St.  Louis  to  my 
former  home.  The  proposal  met  my  views,  and  was 
accepted.  A  day  was  spent  in  preparation.  The  man- 
agement of  affairs  was  committed  to  the  foreman  till  the 
arrival  of  brother  Benson,  which  occurred  a  few  days  after 
my  departure.  We  were  thus,  for  the  time,  deprived  of  our 
expected  greeting  on  mission  ground,  and  they,  as  it  turned 
out,  passed  some  solitary  months,  and  underwent  some 
scenes  of  affliction  before  we  were  ever  permitted  to  meet  at 
the  scene  of  our  future  labors. 

On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  22d  of  June,  taking 
leave  of  our  little  mission  company,  and  commending  them 
and  our  cause  to  God,  we  were  ferried  over  the  Arkansas  to 
the  Cherokee  side,  gave  a  parting  look  back  to  our  majestic 
bluff,  and  took  up  our  line  of  march.  Our  Delaware  friend, 
as  guide,  led  the  way,  followed  by  Rev.  J.  M.  Steele,  mis- 
sionary to  the  Choctaws,  both  on  horseback ;  while  I 
brought  up  the  rear  in  my  buggy,  bearing  the  rifle,  pro- 
visions, and  light  camp  equipage.  Passing  a  thick  skirt 
of  woods,  such  as  usually  lines  the  streams  of  this  country, 
we  ascended  a  rocky  bluff,  and  soon  emerged  into  beautiful 
prairies,  interspersed  with  woodlands.  On  our  left,  at  the 
distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  the  Cavinole  Mountain  lay 


56  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

in  full  view,  and  a  little  further  west  the  peak  known  as 
Sugar-Loaf  raised  its  pyramidal  form.  The  morning  was 
fine  and  our  sensations  delightful ;  the  more  so  to  myself 
as  I  was  taking  a  step  toward  home — though  a  distant 
home. 

No  where,  in  all  my  prairie  wanderings,  have  I  witnessed 
a  scenery  equal  to  that  presented  upon  these  south-western 
savannas.  The  Spring  and  Summer  aspect  is  beautiful 
beyond  description.  The  whole  face  of  nature  presents  an 
unbounded  sea  of  variegated  flowers.  Many  of  the  plants 
and  shrubs  that  in  our  gardens  and  hot-houses  are  tended 
with  assiduous  care  and  made  to  grow  secundum  artem,  and 
which,  after  all,  have  but  a  feeble  and  sickly  existence,  here 
flourish  in  wild  luxuriance,  as  planted  and  nurtured  by  the 
All-forming  Hand.  Here  is  the  passion-flower  with  its 
supposed  mystic  representations ;  here  the  sensitive  plant 
modestly  folds  its  leaves  before  the  heedless  hoof  of  the 
steed,  or  is  crushed  beneath  the  wheels  ;  here  are  a  thousand 
other  forms,  some  novel,  some  familiar,  in  which  "Uni- 
versal Love'  smiles  all  around."  Quite  a  number  of  plants 
were  pointed  out  as  possessing  medicinal  virtues. 

The  prairie  lands  here  contiguous  to  the  river,  like  those 
of  the  Choctaws  upon  the  opposite  side,  are  unproductive 
under  the  hand  of  cultivation.  The  hilly  and  mountainous 
parts  are  rocky  and  barren,  while  the  plains  are  covered 
with  mounds  of  different  sizes,  from  one  to  ten  feet  in  hight, 
and  so  regularly  formed  as  almost  to  lead  to  the  conclusion 
that  they  were  artificial,  did  not  their  immense  number  for- 
bid the  idea.  They  contribute  much  to  the  richness  and 
beauty  of  the  scenery.  "Buffalo  wallows"  abound,  left  by 
the  former  occupants,  as  they  have  retired  still  further  into 
the  "boundless  contiguity  of" — prairie. 

Our  Delaware  friend  we  found  to  be  an  intelligent  and 
interesting  traveling  companion.  He  not  only  served  as 
guide,  but  officiated  as  cook  pro  tern.,  and  instructed  us 
generally  in  the  details  of  camp  life.  He  spoke  English 
fluently,  was  lively  and  communicative,  and  entertained  us 


GRANDFATHER  OF  ALL   THE   INDIANS.  57 

with  many  traditional  and  historical  incidents  pertaining 
to  the  different  tribes.  In  passing  through  the  Cherokee 
country  he  facetiously  assumed,  though  a  young  man,  to  be 
by  birthright  their  grandfather,  and  claimed,  in  virtue  of  the 
relation,  their  particular  respect  and  attention.  The  Dela- 
ware Nation,  he  informed  us,  claims  to  be  grandfather  to  all 
the  other  tribes  of  the  country  ;  not  in  virtue  of  any  greater 
antiquity  or  alleged  lineal  descent,  but  in  consequence  of 
the  former  superiority  of  this  Nation  over  the  others  in 
numbers  and  strength,  an  idea  which  among  Indians  is  ex- 
pressed by  the  paternal  relation.  He  gave  us  the  following 
incident,  which  indicates  that  this  relation  is,  to  some 
extent,  acknowledged  by  the  other  tribes  : 

A  party  of  Sioux,  about  two  years  previously,  had  fallen 
upon  and  massacred  sixteen  Delawares.  Among  the  Sioux 
were  some  Winnebagoes  who  had  participated  in  the  deed. 
Some  time  subsequent  to  this  it  happened  that  the  Winnc- 
bago  tribe,  according  to  custom,  sent  their  pipe  and  tobacco, 
emblems  of  peace,  to  the  Pottawatamies.  The  latter,  indig- 
nant at  the  outrage  committed  upon  the  Delawares,  refused 
the  offering  and  sent  it  back,  assigning  as  a  reason  that  the 
Winnebagoes  had  assisted  to  "kill  their  grandfather." 
The  Winnebagoes,  upon  this,  sent  another  deputation  with 
the  same  emblem,  explaining,  that  the  individuals  of  their 
tribe  who  had  participated  with  the  Sioux  in  the  murder  of 
the  Delawares  were  an  irresponsible  party  that  had  broken 
off  from  their  tribe,  and  for  whose  acts  they  were  not 
accountable ;  that  their  nation  had  not  countenanced  nor 
taken  part  in  the  affair.  With  this  explanation  the  Potta- 
watamies were  satisfied,  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace,  sent  their 
emblem  in  return  to  the  Winnebagoes,  and  a  mutual  good 
understanding  was  restored.  A  fine  specimen  of  diplomacy 
this.  National  honor,  in  Christendom,  would  probably 
have  taken  insult  at  the  first  rejection,  and  instead  of 
friendly  explanations,  a  bloody  war  have  ensued.  Our 
Delaware  was  a  noble  specimen  of  his  tribe.  Many  years 
afterward,  when  traveling  among  the  Delawares,  I  endeav- 


58  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ored  to  find  him,  hut  having  lost  the  recollection  of  his 
name,  I  was  unable  to  do  so. 

In  our  first  day's  traveling  we  crossed  a  road  leading  into 
the  interior,  known  as  the  "whisky-smuggling  road,"  and 
from  the  marks  of  travel,  it  would  seem  that  here,  too,  a 
large  business  was  carried  on  in  that  line.  Our  guide  in- 
formed us  that,  on  the  preceding  Sabbath,  about  thirty 
barrels  and  several  hundred  jugs  filled  with  whisky  had 
been  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Council-Ground,  and 
incontinently  spilled  by  the  authorities ;  a  large  portion  of 
it  the  property  of  a  white  man.  I  have  seen,  and  I  feel,  the 
deep  degradation  of  our  Indian  tribes ;  but  often  I  have 
been  compelled  to  ask  myself,  "Who  is  the  civilized  and 
who  the  savage?"  The  principal  vices  of  the  Indians  arc 
emphatically  our  vices.  If  they  get  drunk  it  is  upon  our 
whisky.  If  they  swear  profanely,  it  is  with  our  oaths,  hav- 
ing no  words  in  their  own  languages  that  are  profane.  If 
they  gamble,  it  is  with  our  cards.  If  they  stab  and  shoot 
each  other,  it  is  with  weapons,  and  powder,  and  balls  that  we 
have  furnished  them;  and  yet  we  claim  to  be  "civilized," 
and  freely  deal  out  to  them  the  epithet  "savage." 

A  marked  difference  of  national  and  individual  character 
is  observable  between  the  Choctaws  and  the  Cherokees. 
The  latter  have  a  larger  number  of  educated  and  prominent 
men,  and  are  in  advance  in  general  improvement ;  but  they 
have  less  candor  and  honest  simplicity  of  character.  The 
difference  may  be  in  part  constitutional ;  but  it  is  alleged 
that  circumstances  have  had  much  to  do  in  forming  the 
Cherokee  character ;  and  that  the  feuds  and  crimes  that 
have  existed  among  them  are  traceable,  in  a  great  degree,  to 
the  treatment  which  they  have  received  at  the  hands  of  the 
United  States  Government. 

The  Cherokee  people  were  removed  principally  or  wholly 
from  the  limits  of  the  State  of  Georgia,  and  numbered  at 
the  time  of  which  I  speak  about  twenty  thousand.  They 
occupy  a  beautiful  and  fertile  section  of  country,  lying 
north  of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  west  of  the  northern 


FEUDS  AND   ASSASSINATIONS.  59 

section  of  the  State  of  Arkansas.  The  Nation  comprised 
three  parties.  The  first  consisted  of  a  number  of  Cherokees 
that  had  voluntarily  left  their  former  homes  and  taken  up 
their  abode  in  this  region,  previous  to  any  removal  by  Gov- 
ernment authority.  These  were  known  as  the  "  Old  settler 
party,"  or  "Western  Cherokees."  The  chief  of  this  band 
was  Rogers,  a  man  of  intelligence  and  reputed  wealth.  I 
have  occasionally  met  him  at  Fort  Smith,  where  he  remained 
for' a  time  in  exile  from  his  tribe.  A  second  party  was 
composed  of  those  who  had  emigrated  under  the  treaty  of 
1835,  known  as  the  "  Schermerhorn  Treaty,"  a  treaty  alleged 
to  have  been  surreptitiously  obtained  by  the  agents  of  the 
Government  from  a  minority  of  the  Nation,  led  by  the 
Ridges  and  other  well-meaning  men  of  the  tribe,  but  against 
the  wishes  of  the  majority  of  the  Nation,  who  never  recog- 
nized its  validity.  These  two  fractions  of  the  tribe  were 
united  in  feeling  and  policy,  and  together  constituted  about 
one-third  of  the  whole  number.  The  remaining  two-thirds 
of  the  tribe  under  their  chief,  John  Ross,  did  not  emigrate 
till  years  after,  and  even  then  persisted  in  refusing  to 
acknowledge  the  treaty  referred  to. 

The  result  was  mutual  feuds,  jealousies,  and  assassin- 
ations, and  a  state  of  internal  discontent  and  commotion, 
which,  for  a  time,  greatly  retarded  their  improvement. 
Ross  and  his  party,  on  removal,  took  the  government  into 
their  own  hands  and  maintained  the  ascendency,  while  the 
others  vainly  endeavored  to  recover  their  supposed  rights. 
A  plot  was  laid  to  murder  Major  Ridge,  the  father,  Ridge, 
the  son,  and  Boudinot,  leaders  of  the  minority,  in  the  same 
night  and  at  the  same  hour,  though  at  places  distant  from 
each  other.  The  plot  was  promptly  executed,  with  a  little 
variation  in  time,  from  not  finding  one  of  the  victims  at 
the  expected  place.  This  deed  was,  after  my  arrival  in  the 
country,  bloodily  avenged  by  the  assassination  of  Vann  and 
other  leaders  of  the  Ross  party. 

This  state  of  things,  continued  as  it  was  for  years,  could 
not  fail  to  exert  a  most  unhappy  influence  upon  the  morals 


60  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

and  habits  of  the  people.  Some  were  kept  out  of  the  coun- 
try, not  daring  to  go  to  their  homes ;  others,  driven  to  des- 
peration, resorted  to  crime,  murdering,  plundering,  and  then 
fleeing  the  countiy;  occasionally  returning,  repeating  their 
outrages,  and  then  fleeing  again  to  their  haunts  among  the 
wild  tribes  further  west.  These  statements  I  had  in  sub- 
stance from  Judge  Pascal,  of  whom  I  have  before  spoken 
as  one  of  the  Supreme  Judges  of  the  State  of  Arkansas. 
His  wife  was  the  daughter  of  Ridge  the  elder,  an  intelligent, 
well-educated,  full-blood  Cherokee  woman.  She  spoke  with 
deep  feeling  of  the  fate  of  her  father  and  brother. 

Ross  himself  was  kept  in  perpetual  fear,  and  for  many 
years  was  surrounded  by  a  body-guard,  ostensibly  kept  for 
the  security  of  public  documents,  etc.  When  returning  to 
the  Nation,  after  an  absence,  he  was  met  at  the  line  by  an 
escort  to  guard  him  home. 

I  have  referred  to  these  events,  and  may  do  so  again 
among  the  current  events  of  the  history  of  this  people;  but 
it  is  gratifying  to  add  that  the  difficulties  of  the  Nation 
have  since,  been  amicably  adjusted,  and  they  are  now  living 
together  in  quiet  under  the  government  of  Ross,  who  is  still 
living,  and  maintains  his  influence. 

The  Cherokees  are  largely  intermixed  by  the  marriages  of 
whites  among  them,  more  so,  perhaps,  than  any  other  tribe 
on  our  frontier.  A  traveler,  judging  from  appearance, 
might  suppose  that  one-half  of  the  Cherokee  population 
have  more  or  less  of  white  blood.  Next  to  them,  the 
Chickasaws  have,  perhaps,  formed  most  alliances  of  this 
kind,  and  after  these  the  Choctaws.  Very  few  of  either  of 
these  tribes  have  intermingled  with  the  African  race.  The 
Creeks  have  intermarried  largely  with  the  negroes,  and  some 
of  their  principal  men  are  of  this  descent.  It  is  now  pro- 
hibited among  them  under  severe  penalties. 

The  intermarriages  of  whites  among  Indians  may  some- 
times be  based  upon  virtuous  and  laudable  considerations ; 
and  I  have  known  a  few  instances,  I  think,  in  which  there 
was  genuine  affection  and  domestic  happiness.  But,  in  a 


INTERMARRIAGES — INDIAN   BONIFACE.  (31 

large  majority  of  cases,  these  alliances  are,  doubtless,  formed 
from  sordid  and  mercenary  motives.  By  this  process  a 
right  of  residence  is  gained,  and  all  the  offspring  are  enti- 
tled to  the  rights  and  claims  of  Indians,  however  small  a 
proportion  of  the  blood  may  run  through  their  veins. 
Shrewd  and  designing  white  men,  by  this  means,  acquire 
an  influence  among  them  which  is  wielded  greatly  to  their 
own,  advantage  in  treaties  and  other  public  negotiations. 
The  influence  of  a  resident  white,  or  a  prominent  half- 
breed,  is  often  well  paid  for  by  the  agents  of  the  Govern- 
ment in  carrying  a  desirable  measure.  On  this  account 
they  are  regarded  with  great  jealousy  by  the  full-bloods. 
In  case  of  an  intermarriage  between  two  tribes,  the  off- 
spring are  entitled  to  citizenship  and  annuities  in  both. 

Missionary  labors  have  been  faithfully  bestowed  upon 
this  people,  and  with  marked  results.  A  large  nuinlx-r 
have  been  brought  into  religious  communion,  and  are  con- 
sistently pious.  Presbyterians  of  both  Schools,  Baptists, 
and  Methodists  are  represented.  Our  membership  was 
about  equal  to  that  among  the  Choctaws,  consisting  of  near 
one  thousand. 

Our  first  dayrs  travel  brought  us  to  the  bank  of  a  river 
called  "  Illinois,"  a  considerable  tributary  of  the  Arkansas, 
where  we  put  up  with  a  half-breed  Cherokee,  of  portly  ap- 
pearance and  courteous  bearing ;  rather  a  fine  specimen  of 
an  Indian  "  Boniface."  A  torrent  of  rain  fell  during  the 
night,  and  in  the  morning  the  river  was  quite  out  of  its 
banks,  and  the  ferry-flat  swept  away.  It  was  found  lodged 
in  the  drift  below,  and  a  force  of  Indians  and  negroes  was 
collected  to  bring  it  back  to  its  place.  Steam-power  was 
applied  internally  from  the  bottle.  Almost  the  entire  day  was 
spent ;  and  we  began  to  think  that  our  host  was  arranging 
matters  so  as  to  entertain  us  for  another  night.  This  our 
Delaware  declared  never  would  do  ;  "we  must  cross,  if  we 
had  to  lie  in  the  woods."  About  five  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon our  craft  was  in  place,  and  we  were  soon  safely  over. 
We  found  that  the  whole  country  had  been  deluged,  so  that, 


62  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

had  we  crossed  earlier,  we  must  have  been  delayed  by 
smaller  streams. 

For  some  time  our  route  lay  through  a  rough,  mountain- 
ous region,  the  towering  hills  partially  covered  with  low, 
scrubby  trees  and  scanty  vegetation.  Prickly-pear  abounds 
here.  By  brisk  traveling  we  reached,  before  nightfall,  a 
cabin  in  the  edge  of  a  fertile  prairie,  where  we  obtained 
a  shelter.  Our  host  was  a  little,  withered,  old  white  man, 
with  a  Cherokee  wife.  To  a  man  who  is  willing  to  live 
without  society  a  situation  here  is  desirable ;  some  of  the 
valleys  are  exceedingly  fertile,  and  there  is  no  "  crowding." 
Our  hero  was  emphatically  "  lord  of  the  fowl  and  the 
brute." 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  coffee  and  crackers  were 
announced  by  our  Delaware  factotum.  We  took  it,  and 
were  soon  off.  For  some  distance  we  passed  over  Flint 
hills,  very  high,  and  composed  of  stones  about  the  size  and 
appearance  of  those  broken  up  for  M'Adamized  roads.  In 
some  places  we  had  a  fine,  natural  turnpike,  in  its  primitive, 
untrodden  roughness.  As  we  advanced  the  soil  became  bet- 
ter, flinty  still,  but  fertile,  with  occasional  farms.  After 
passing  through  a  variegated  scenery  for  some  distance,  we 
emerged  into  a  large  and  beautiful  prairie.  In  the  distance 
was  seen  an  establishment  of  imposing  appearance.  This 
we  learned  to  be  Park  Hill — of  which  in  our  next. 


PARK    HILL.  03 


CHAPTER   VI. 

CHEROKEE  LITER ATURE  — CALL  OF  COUNCIL. 

PARK  HILL  is  the  site  of  the  most  prominent  and  influ- 
ential mission  among  the  Cherokees,  and  is  under  the  pat- 
ronage of  the  American  Board.  The  situation  is  elevated 
and  beautiful,  with  comfortable  buildings  and  considerable 
cultivated  land.  The  Principal,  Rev.  S.  A.  Worcester,  was 
absent — a  talented  and  pious  minister  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  and  son  of  a  prominent  New  England  clergyman. 
He  had  proven  his  constancy  in  the  mission  work  and 
his  attachment  to  the  Cherokee  people  by  a  lifetime  service 
and  by  "  bonds  and  imprisonment."  I  shall  have  more  to 
say  of  him  hereafter. 

Rev.  Mr.  Foreman,  an  educated  native  minister  of  the 
same  Church,  entertained  us  kindly,  and  accompanied  us 
subsequently  to  the  Council-Ground.  Mr.  F.  was  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Education  Fund  of  the  Nation,  amounting 
to  about  twelve  thousand  dollars  per  annum,  and  the  Or- 
phan Fund,  of  two  thousand.  These  funds  supported 
eleven  schools  in  eight  districts,  which  were  said  to  be 
doing  well.  The  Cherokees  have  no  national  appropria- 
tions for  school  purposes  similar  to  those  of  the  Choctuws. 
Their  educational  interests,  and,  indeed,  all  the  business 
matters  of  the  Nation,  are  managed  chiefly  by  themselves. 
Even  their  annuities  are  received  and  paid  out  by  their  own 
officers,  and  not  by  United  States  Agents,  as  among  the 
other  tribes. 

The  missionaries  at  this  point  were  mainly  employed  in 
translating.  They  had  a  printing  establishment,  at  which 
all  the  printing  was  done  both  for  them  and  the  Choctaws, 
there  being,  at  that  time,  no  press  in  the  Choctaw  Nation. 


64  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

They  had  translated  and  printed,  in  Cherokee,  part  of  the 
Gospels,  some  of  the  Epistles,  selections  from  the  Old 
Testament,  hymns,  and  a  few  tracts.  I  was  presented  with 
a  copy  of  their  hymn-hook.  A  conversation  with  Mr. 
Foreman  strengthened  me  in  a  previously-entertained  opin- 
ion that  the  true  policy  is  to  educate  the  Indians  in  English 
solely.  Language  stands  closely  identified  with  habits  and 
prejudices,  cherishes  and  keeps  them  alive.  These  must  be 
removed  before  any  permanent  change  can  be  wrought  in 
their  condition  and  character.  Meanwhile  a  few  transla- 
tions may  benefit  those  who  are  too  far  advanced  in  life  to 
acquire  our  language. 

The  Cherokee  language,  as  spoken,  unlike  that  of  the 
Choctaws,  is  harsh  and  fierce.  It  abounds  in  aspirates, 
and  seems  to  possess  great  force  and  distinctness  of  artic- 
ulation. Still  it  is  very  difficult  to  acquire;  indeed,  it  is 
affirmed  that  no  white  man  has  ever  learned  to  speak  it 
correctly.  One  of  the  most  talented  and  diligent  mission- 
aries among  them,  after  much  time  and  labor  spent  in  the 
acquisition  of  the  spoken  language,  imagined  that  he  had 
so  far  succeeded  that  he  might  venture  to  preach  in  Cher- 
okee ;  but  o-n  trial  he  so  utterly  failed  that  the  idea  was 
abandoned  in  despair  of  success.  Sounds  very  nearly  re- 
sembling each  other  are  said  to  convey  the  most  different 
and  even  contrary  meanings,  and  distinctions  of  articula- 
tion are  so  minute  that  none  except  those  familiar  with 
them  from  infancy  can  express  them  properly.  This  gives 
rise  to  the  most  awkward  and  sometimes  mischievous  blun- 
ders. I  have  heard  of  mistakes  like  the  following :  One, 
wishing  to  invite  a  Cherokee  to  breakfast,  used  words 
which  signify,  "I  want  to  fight  you."  Another,  intend- 
ing to  say,  "  Sit  down,"  said,  "I'll  cut  your  throat."  A 
third,  meaning  to  say,  "Retire,"  said,  "Go  to  heaven." 
A  fourth,  designing  to  describe  a0"fox  springing  from  the 
ground,"  said,  "The  devil  rising  up."  Words  are  danger- 
ous things  in  any  language  ;  but  it  is  peculiarly  hazardous 
to  tamper  with  such  as  these. 


WRITTEN   LANGUAGE — GEORGE   GUEST.  65 

One  of  the  most  extraordinary  facts  in  the  history  of 
letters  stands  connected  with  the  written  language  of  the 
Cherokees.  All  the  other  Indian  tribes  that  are  in  posses- 
sion of  a  written  language  have  had  it  framed  for  them  by 
the  whites,  and,  I  believe,  in  every  instance,  by  missiona- 
ries, and  always  by  the  use  of  our  alphabet.  The  Cher- 
okee alphabet  was  invented  by  one  of  their  own  tribe,  and 
formed  from  original  characters.  The  inventor  was  George 
Guest,  an  illiterate  native  Cherokee.  The  circumstances  are 
said  to  have  been  as  follows  :  Guest  was  an  inveterate  en- 
emy to  missionaries  and  missionary  effort.  He  had  the 
sagacity  to  discover  the  advantages  of  a  written  language, 
and  the  superiority  which  it  gave  to  the  whites  over  the 
Indians,  and  judged  that  if  his  people  could  be  put  in  pos- 
session of  a  written  language,  they  would  thus  be  placed 
upon  an  equality  with  the  whites.  The  great  object  with 
him  was  to  counteract  Christian  influence  rather  than  any 
general  benefit  to  arise  from  the  education  of  his  people. 
Full  of  the  thought,  he  set  himself  to  the  task,  illiterate  as 
he  was,  of  constructing  an  alphabet,  and  at  length  suc- 
ceeded in  producing  one  and  presenting  it  to  the  Nation. 
And  so  perfect  was  it  found  that  it  was  adopted  in  general 
use,  and,  to  this  day,  remains  the  only  medium  of  written 
communication  among  them. 

No  sooner  was  the  discovery  made  than,  to  the  great 
mortification  of  the  inventor,  the  missionaries  got  hold  of 
it,  and  commenced  printing  the  Scriptures,  hymn-books, 
and  other  religious  publications,  so  that,  in  the  providence 
of  God,  the  discovery  was  made  to  serve  the  cause  of  re- 
ligion. Poor  Guest,  disappointed  and  heart-broken,  left 
his  home,  and  wandered  away  among  the  wild  tribes  of  the 
farther  West,  where  he  remained  for  years,  a  dejected,  self- 
exiled  outcast.  Within  a  few  years  past  I  have  seen,  in  a 
public  journal,  a  statement  of  an  appropriation,  by  the 
proper  department  at  Washington,  to  pay  for  bringing 
George  Guest  home  to  his  tribe.  Whether  he  still  lives 
or  not,  I  am  not  informed.  Had  the  Cherokee  people, 

6 


66  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

from  that  time,  had  a  classic  history,  like  that  of  Greece, 
the  name  of  George  Guest  would  have  stood  side  by  side 
with  that  of  Cadmus;  rather  would  have  risen  above  it; 
for  Cadmus  only  introduced  a  borrowed  literature,  while 
the  Cherokee  formed  one  anew.  As  it  is,  Cherokee  history 
will  soon  close,  and  with  it  the  name  sink  into  forgetful- 
ness.  So  much  have  the  times  in  which  a  man  acts  his 
part  to  do  with  the  reputation  which  his  name  carries 
down  to  posterity. 

The  Cherokee  alphabet  is  syllabic,  consisting  of  eighty- 
five  characters,  each  of  which  represents  a  syllable. 

Leaving  Park  Hill,  we  passed  some  excellent  farms  in  a 
good  state  of  improvement,  among  them  that  of  John 
Ross,  the  Head-Chief.  The  scenery  of  this  region  is  fine, 
and  the  improvements  are  the  best  to  be  found  in  the  In- 
dian country.  It  presents  the  aspect  of  our  older  prairie 
settlements  in  the  States,  east  of  the  Mississippi.  What, 
to  us,  added  no  little  to  the  interest  was  that,  upon  one  of 
the  finest  summits,  we  were  pointed  to  a  Methodist  meeting- 
house, a  frame  building  of  respectable  dimensions  and  ap- 
pearance. Here,  the  ensuing  year,  as  will  be  seen,  we 
organized  the  Indian  Mission  Conference.  It  was  known 
as  "Riley's  Chapel." 

To  what  has  been  said  of  the  Cherokee  character  I  must 
add  another  trait — their  great  vivacity  and  cheerfulness, 
exhibiting  a  striking  contrast  with  their  Choctaw  neigh- 
bors. In  manners  they  remind  me  of  the  French.  The 
females  are  sprightly,  and  many  of  them  handsome.  They 
are  excellent  riders,  and  appear  to  fine  advantage  on  horse- 
back, sitting  gracefully  in  the  saddle,  and  managing  a  horse 
with  dexterity.  A  specimen  of  skill  in  this  line  was  af- 
forded us  as  we  approached  the  Council-Ground.  A  fine- 
looking  Cherokee  female  appeared  upon  our  left.  She  was 
well  mounted  and  gayly  dressed,  her  head  bound  with  a 
kerchief,  and  her  long,  black  hair  flowing  loosely  in  the 
air.  Bounding  over  the  prairie  in  a  lope,  she  managed, 
for  some  time,  to  keep  just  in  proper  distance  to  give  effect 


OBJECT   OF    COUNCIL.  67 

to  the  exhibition,  till,  as  if  satisfied  with  the  display,  she 
wheeled  off  and  went  her  own  way. 

The  Council  to  which  we  were  going  was  a  grand  con- 
vocation of  all  the  tribes  in  the  South-West,  and  many 
of  the  North.  The  Cherokees  had  sent  the  pipe  and  tobacco 
to  all  the  Indian  tribes  on  the  frontier,  to  the  number  of 
thirty-six,  inviting  them  to  a  friendly  conference.  The 
Creeks  had  given  a  similar  invitation  the  year  previous, 
but  with  comparatively  little  success. 

Considerable  interest  was  excited  by  the  call,  and  no  little 
speculation  indulged  as  to  the  real  design  of  the  movement. 
Some  attributed  private  and  designing  motives  to  the  prom- 
inent Cherokees,  and  especially  to  John  Ross.  The  minds 
of  others  were  excited  with  the  apprehension  that  there  was 
about  to  be  a  hostile  combination  of  the  Indian  tribes 
against  the  whites ;  and  the  department  at  Washington  was 
addressed  on  the  subject.  Nothing  has  ever  transpired, 
however,  to  justify  either  imputation.  No  specific  object 
was  announced  in  the  call.  In  general  they  proposed  to 
become  better  acquainted,  cultivate  friendly  relations,  and 
make  such  international  regulations  as  occasion  might 
require.  It  seemed  to  be  simply  a  great  family-gathering 
of  all  the  tribes  to  enjoy  a  season  of  festivity,  and  to  renew 
the  ancient  bonds  of  friendship. 

The  time  appointed  for  assembling  was  the  5th  of  June. 
They  had  now,  as  our  Delaware  informed  us,  been  assem- 
bling some  eighteen  days,  and  had  only  commenced  their 
sessions  a  few  days  previous,  expecting  to  remain  a  week  or 
two  longer.  Some  twenty-two  tribes  had  responded,  and 
their  representatives  were  on  the  ground  to  a  greater  or  less 
number.  The  whole  number  in  attendance  was  estimated 
at  three  or  four  thousand,  supported  by  the  Cherokees  at  an 
expense  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  day.  Among 
the  absentees  were  the  Camanches,  who  had  so  much  fight- 
ing on  hand  that  they  had  neither  leisure  nor  inclination  to 
smoke  the  pipe  of  peace ;  the  Pawnees  also,  who  affected  to 
suspect  treacherous  designs,  and  refused  to  attend  unless 


68  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

upon  condition  that  five  men  should  be  sent  as  hostages  for 
the  safe  return  of  their  delegates ;  the  real  reason  heing,  as 
was  supposed,  the  fear  of  meeting  the  Osages,  with  whom 
they  had  hostilities.  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  our  own 
people,  the  Choctaws,  who,  with  their  agent,  stood  aloof 
from  the  whole  proceeding. 

The  United  States  Agent  among  the  Cherokees  at  the 
time  was  Ex-Governor  Butler,  of  South  Carolina,  who 
subsequently  fell  in  the  Mexican  war;  brother  to  the  late 
United  States  Senator  of  that  name. 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  day  we  arrived  at  the  ground,  and 
the  vast  assemblage  of  savans  of  the  forest  opened  up  before 
us.  We  were  kindly  received  by  several  missionary  breth- 
ren in  attendance ;  and  I  soon  found  myself  quartered  at 
the  hospitable  home  of  Young  Wolf,  an  aged  and  venerable 
Cherokee,  whose  character  will  receive  a  further  notice. 


THE   GREAT  COUNCIL.  69 


CHAPTER   VII. 

THE    GREAT    COUNCIL. 

WE  were  now  prepared  to  contemplate  at  our  leisure  the 
appearance  and  movements  of  the  assemblage,  the  largest 
and  most  imposing  of  its  character  prohably  that  was  ever 
convened. 

The  site  of  the  Cherokee  Council-Ground  is  called  Tah-le- 
quah ;  a  name  brought  with  them  from  their  Eastern  home. 
A  considerable  village  has  since  grown  up,  but  at  that  time 
there  were  no  improvements  save  the  rude  preparations  for 
their  annual  council  sessions.  An  area  of  perhaps  three 
acres  was  inclosed.  Upon  the  line  of  inclosure,  and  in  rear 
of  it,  were  about  thirty  cabins.  Two  of  these,  facing  each 
other  upon  opposite  sides  of  the  square,  were,  on  ordinary 
occasions,  used  by  the  two  houses  of  the  Legislative  Council 
of  the  Cherokee  Nation,  which  like  that  of  the  Choctaws 
consists  of  an  upper  and  lower  house.  The  remaining 
cabins  were  for  the  accommodation  of  members  in  attend- 
ance ;  and  now  all  were  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the 
delegated  representatives  of  the  several  tribes.  The  multi- 
tudes of  men,  women,  and  children  that  had  come  together 
of  their  own  accord  to  witness  the  proceedings  and  help  to 
devour  the  beef,  were  spread  abroad  over  the  plains  in  the 
true  Indian  style,  accommodating  themselves,  day  and 
night,  by  a  fire  in  the  open  air. 

The  assemblage  presented  a  motley  appearance,  exhibit- 
ing every  age,  phase,  and  condition  of  Indian  life  of  both 
sexes.  The  costume  of  the  Indian  tribes  is  greatly  varied, 
from  the  richest  and  most  genteel  style  of  their  white  neigh- 
bors to  the  rudest  and  simplest  form  of  savage  dress. 
Hence  an  Indian  gathering  presents  a  singular  and  fan- 


70  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

tastic  commingling  of  the  tastes  of  the  white  and  the 
man.  The  most  common  male  dress  of  the  half-civilized  is 
a  calico  hunting-shirt.  Some  wear  pantaloons,  some  leg- 
gins  ;  some  with  hats,  some  caps,  some  bareheaded ;  but 
more  still  with  a  handkerchief  or  shawl  tied  round  the  head 
in  the  form  of  a  turban ;  some  with  boots  or  shoes,  some 
moccasins,  and  many  barefooted —  males  and  females  fan- 
tastically ornamented,  especially  about  the  head ;  some  with 
rich  plumes,  some  with  more  common,  and  many  with  the 
single  quill  of  a  fowl.  Almost  every  one  is  distinguished 
by  some  article  of  display ;  the  ears  and  noses,  especially 
of  the  ruder  tribes,  variously  and  profusely  ornamented, 
and  their  faces,  arms,  and  bodies  painted  according  to  the 
custom  of  their  several  tribes.  They  have  a  great  passion 
for  gay  colors,  especially  for  red.  Sashes,  shawls,  and 
handkerchiefs  are  in  great  demand.  Many  very  rich  red 
blankets  are  used  among  them.  The  article  of  our  apparel 
which  they  seem  most  to  abominate  is  the  hat  pr  bonnet. 
Although  compelled,  when  full-dressed,  to  conform  to  the 
usage  of  the  whites  in  this  respect,  yet  all,  especially  the 
females,  seem  greatly  relieved  when  they  can  doff  the  head- 
dress, and,  in  their  own  free  and  easy  style,  substitute  a 
kerchief  or  shawl  in  its  place.  The  dress  of  the  Cherokees 
approaches  more  nearly  to  the  white  costume  than  that  of 
most  of  the  other  tribes. 

Among  the  persons  first  pointed  out  to  me  were  Ross,  the 
present  Head- Chief,  and  candidate  for  re-election,  and 
Vann,  the  opposing  candidate,  sitting  in  friendly  conver- 
sation. The  men  were  leisurely  smoking  their  pipes,  and 
engaged  in  low  tones  of  conversation  ;  the  women  were 
employed  in  beating  the  corn,  and  other  labors  of  the  camp. 
Indians  are  rarely  in  a  hurry ;  time  is  of  no  value  to  them. 
Two  weeks  passed,  after  the  day  set  for  opening,  before  the 
first  "  talk."  They  seemed  quite  as  contented  upon  their 
beef  rations  alone  as  our  legislative  savans  do  with  their 
per  diem  and  "roast  beef." 

About  eleven  o'clock  the  horn  was  blown  as  a  signal  for 


MANNER   OF    SPEAKING.  71 

aSmbling,  but  no  attention  was  paid  to  the  summons ;  the 
smoking,  talking,  and  lounging  went  on  as  before.  About 
three  in  the  afternoon  another  signal  was  given,  and  they 
slowly  assembled  and  prepared  themselves  for  business. 

No  formality  was  observed  in  the  opening.  A  large, 
well-roofed  shed  stood  in  the  center  of  the  ground,  under 
which  the  services  were  held.  A  stand,  or  rostrum,  was 
placed  on  one  side,  which,  however,  was  not  occupied  by 
the  speakers,  who  seemed  to  prefer  a  place  on  the  ground. 
In  front  of  the  stand  was  a  table  covered  with  wampum 
and  the  great  pipes  used  on  special  occasions.  The  seats 
were  rude  benches,  placed  with  one  end  toward  the  table, 
and  extending  out  like  the  radii  of  a  semicircle.  The  sev- 
eral delegations  were  arranged  upon  separate  seats,  the  Del- 
awares  taking  precedence.  The  speaker  occupied  a  central 
position  at  the  table,  and  the  interpreter  for  each  tribe  stood 
at  the  head  of  his  delegation. 

Eighteen  tribes  were  represented  by  properly-authorized 
delegations.  In  some  instances  two  or  three,  or  even  four, 
tribes^spoke  the  same  language  with  such  slight  differences 
as  to  understand  the  same  interpreter.  There  were  eight 
interpreters,  one  of  whom  spoke  two  languages,  and  acted 
for  two  different  tribes.  The  process  of  speech-making  was 
exceedingly  slow.  The  speaker  gave  his  address  sentence 
by  sentence,  in  his  own  language.  At  the  close  of  each 
sentence  or  clause  he  paused,  and  his  own  interpreter  ren- 
dered the  words  into  English,  the  only  medium  common  to 
all.  The  several  interpreters  then,  in  turn,  repeated  them, 
each  to  his  delegation  in  their  own  language ;  upon  which 
the  delegation  responded  with  the  hearty  grunt  peculiar  to 
Indians — as  if  to  say,  "We  hear  you;"  or,  "We  under- 
stand your  words."  Each  waited  for  the  others  with  delib- 
erate slowness.  The  words  being  thus  repeated  nine  times 
after  their  rendering  into  English,  afforded  ample  time  for 
taking  notes,  even  without  the  aid  of  stenography.  I  took 
down  several  of  the  speeches,  which  may  serve  to  give  a 
specimen  of  Indian  oratory  in  modern  times. 


72  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Before  proceeding  to  the  speeches,  I  will  lay  before  the 
reader  a  brief  account  of  the  personal e  of  some  of  the  nota- 
bles present : 

JOHN  Ross,  now,  and  for  many  years  past,  the  Head- 
Chief  of  the  Cherokee  Nation,  was,  in  point  of  talents  and 
acquirements,  the  first  man  present.  He  is  a  small,  active 
man,  apparently  then  fifty  years  of  age ;  said  to  be  one- 
eighth  Cherokee,  but  with  little  or  no  appearance  of  the 
Indian  ;  much  such  a  man  in  appearance  as  Martin  Van 
Buren,  only  a  size  smaller ;  quite  equal,  I  should  think,  in 
mental  caliber  and  business  tact,  to  the  average  of  our  Con- 
gressmen. Ross  occupies  about  the  same  standing  among 
his  people  as  Col.  Pitchlynn  among  the  Choctaws,  though 
Pitchlynn  is  more  of  an  Indian. 

LOWRY,  the  second  Chief  of  the  Cherokees,  was  an  aged  and 
venerable-looking  man ;  neat,  though  plain,  in  his  person ; 
grave  and  sedate  in  his  demeanor;  a  communicant,  I  be- 
lieve, in  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  perhaps  an  elder.  I 
think  I  have  since  seen  a  notice  of  his  death.  I  suppose 
him  to  have  been  a  pious  man,  and  useful  in  his  tribe. 

BUSHY-HEAD,  a  Cherokee,  was  the  Chief  Justice  of  the 
Nation,  their  interpreter,  and  also  a  Baptist  preacher.  He 
was  a  large,  robust  man,  having  much  the  appearance  of  a 
well-fed  Ohio  farmer,  with  apparently  no  more  of  the  Indian 
about  him  than  Ross.  He  interpreted  fluently,  was  a  man 
of  reputable  talents,  and  was  said  to  possess  great  influence 
in  his  Nation.  He  also,  I  think,  is  since  deceased. 

GEN.  ROLY  M'INTOSH,  Head-Chief  of  the  Creek  Nation ; 
in  appearance  a  full-blood,  and  unable  to  speak  English ; 
apparently  forty-five  years  of  age,  rather  below  the  medium 
stature,  thoughtful  and  expressive  countenance,  eyes  some- 
what peculiarly  set ;  and  whole  contour  indicative  of  hon- 
esty, foresight,  and  great  firmness  and  decision  of  character. 
He  was  of  a  family  of  note  among  the  Creeks,  and  possessed 
almost  unlimited  influence  in  his  tribe.  I  must  say  that  I 
was  prepossessed  in  his  favor,  notwithstanding  his  alleged 
fixed  hostility  to  missionary  effort. 


MEN   OF   NOTE — INDIAN   ORATORY.  73 

WILD  CAT,  the  Seminole  warrior,  so  conspicuous  for  the 
part  he  acted  in  the  Florida  War,  and  the  trouble  which  he 
and  his  band  gave  to  the  United  States  troops.  He  was,  I 
should  think,  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  five  feet  ten 
inches  in  hight,  sprightly  countenance,  light  and  graceful 
step,  and  possessing  every  mark  of  energy  and  vigor  of 
character.  He  bore  on  his  person  a  greater  amount  of  sil- 
ver onfament  than  any  one  present ;  broad  silver  bands 
upon  his  forehead  and  wrists,  a  string  of  silver  plates,  each 
in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  about  eight  inches  in  the  curve, 
and  one  and  a  half  broad,  suspended  one  below  another 
from  the  neck  almost  to  the  waist,  besides  a  large  profusion 
of  smaller  ornaments.  He  walked  as  if  he  disdained  the 
earth  on  which  he  trod.  He,  I  think,  is  since  ctead  also. 

WAU-BON-SA,  a  Pottawatamie  Chief,  said  to  be  eighty- 
seven  years  of  age ;  treated  with  great  respect  by  those  of 
his  tribe  present ;  complete  Indian  costume,  with  the  skin 
of  a  crow  split  in  the  middle,  through  which  his  head  was 
thrust,  covering  his  shoulders  and  back,  and  the  tail  hang- 
ing down  before. 

SHIN-GA-WAS-BA — if  I  recollect  the  name  correctly — an 
Osage  brave ;  large,  fleshy,  good-humored,  and,  like  the 
rest  of  his  tribe,  an  incessant  talker  and  boaster. 

The  list  might  be  enlarged,  but  these  are  specimens. 
Artists  were  upon  the  ground,  obtaining  portraits  of  such 
chiefs  and  distinguished  men  as  they  could  induce  to  sit  for 
them.  Years  after,  in  the  fine  gallery  of  Indian  portraits 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institute  at  Washington,  I  was  highly 
entertained  by  the  sight  of  familiar  faces,  some  of  which 
were  probably  sketched  at  that  time. 

The  first  speaker,  after  my  arrival,  was  Ross.  His  talk 
was  delivered  by  him  in  English,  from  a  manuscript  held  in 
his  hand.  The  following  is  nearly  a  verbatim  report  of  his 
address : 

"Brothers,  the  talk  of  our  fathers  has  been  spoken,  and 
you  have  listened  to  it.  You  have  also  smoked  the  pipe  of 
peace,  and  taken  the  hand  of  friendship  around  the  council- 


74  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

fire  newly  kindled  here  at  Tah-le-quah  in  the  West.  We 
have  been  made  glad  on  this  interesting  occasion. 

"Brothers,  when  we  look  back  to  the  history  of  our  race 
we  see  some  green  spots  that  are  pleasing  to  us.  We  also 
see  many  things  to  make  our  hearts  sad.  When  we  look 
back  on  the  days  when  the  first  council-fires  were  kindled, 
around  which  the  pipe  of  peace  was  smoked,  we  are  grate- 
ful to  our  Creator  for  having  united  the  hearts  of  the  red 
men  in  peace ;  for  it  is  in  peace  only  that  our  women  and 
children  can  enjoy  happiness  and  increase  in  numbers.  By 
peace  our  condition  has  been  improved  in  the  pursuits  of 
civilized  life.  We  should,  therefore,  extend  the  hand  of 
peace  from  tribe  to  tribe,  till  peace  is  established  between 
every  nation  of  red  men  within  the  reach  of  our  voice. 

"  Brotheffj'Jsvhen  we  call  to  mind  the  early  associations 
which  endeared  fts  to  the  land  that  gave  birth  to  our  fore- 
fathers, where  we  were  brought  up  in  peace  to  taste  the 
blessings  of  civilized  life ;  when  we  see  that  our  fires  have 
there  been  extinguished,  And  our  families  been  removed  to 
a  new  and  distant  home,  we  can  not  but  feel  sorry.  But 
the  designs  of  Providence  are  mysterious  ;  and  we  should 
not,  therefore,  despair  of  once  more  enjoying  the  blessings 
of  peace  in  our  new  home. 

"Brothers,  by  this  removal  tribes  hitherto  distant  from 
each  other  have  become  neighbors,  and  those  hitherto  unac- 
quainted have  become  known  to  each  other.  There  are, 
however,  numerous  other  tribes  with  whom  we  are  still 
strangers. 

"Brothers,  it  is  for  renewing  in  the  West  the  ancient 
talk  of  our  forefathers,  and  of  perpetuating  forever  the  old 
pipe  of  peace,  and  of  extending  them  from  nation  to 
nation,  and  of  adopting  such  international  laws  as  may 
redress  the  wrongs  done  by  the  people  of  our  respective 
nations  to  each  other,  that  you  have  been  invited  to  attend 
the  present  Council.  Let  us,  therefore,  so  act  that  the  peace 
which  existed  between  our  forefathers  may  be  pursued,  and 
that  we  may  always  live  as  members  of  the  same  family. 


INDIAN   ORATORY.  75 

"Brothers,  the  business  of  the  Council  is  now  before 
you,  and  I  hope  you  will  persevere  till  it  is  finished." 

Ross  was  followed  by  the  Creek  Chief,  Roly  M'Intosh. 
This  talk  was  delivered  in  his  own  language,  and  rendered 
by  his  nephew  into  English;  then  given  by  the  different 
interpreters  to  their  respective  tribes.  This  speech,  doubt- 
less, suffers  by  translation  into  English  ;  yet  it  will  be  seen 
to  harve  some  beauties.  He  spoke  with  much  earnestness 
and  apparent  feeling  about  as  follows : 

"Friends  and  brothers,  we  are  all  assembled  here  under 
this  roof.  I  am  going  to  speak  a  few  words. 

"  Brothers,  we  are  met  together  to  renew  our  forefathers' 
talk.  It  was  made  in  the  East.  It  has  been  brought  to 
the  West.  Yet  every  day  we  assemble  here  we  attend  to  it 
as  well  as  we  know  how. 

"Brothers,  our  fires  are  all  behind.  They  were  first  kin- 
dled in  the  East;  but  now  we  have  been  driven  to  the 
West,  and  have  renewed  our  fires. 

"Brothers,  we  are  now  in  the  West.  We  are  trying  to 
make  the  path  of  our  forefathers,  that  it  may  extend  from 
one  door  to  the  other ;  that  it  may  be  a  white  path ;  that 
it  may  be  kept  clean  ;  that  our  rising  generation  may  walk 
in  the  paths  of  peace. 

"Brothers,  you  are  met  together  to  make  such  interna- 
tional laws  that  you  may  raise  your  children  in  peace.  We 
and  our  brethren,  the  Cherokees,  have  made  these  broken 
days  [so  the  Creeks  called  Council  times]  for  this  Council, 
and  we  have  come  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  that  the  talk 
of  our  forefathers  be  renewed. 

"  Brothers,  I  do  n't  know  how  many  tribes  there  are  in 
the  North.  We  have  sent  the  wampum  to  them  that  they 
may  come  in  and  walk  in  the  paths  of  peace.  I  am  will- 
ing, also,  to  extend  my  hand  to  the  tribes  of  the  South, 
and  take  them  by  the  hand,  and  invite  them  in,  and  extend 
to  them  our  fires,  that  they  may  kindle  their  lights  and 
walk  in  the  paths  of  peace. 

"Brothers,  I  am  now  going  to  part  with  you.     I  hope 


76  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

you  will  not  think  hard  of  me.  It  has  been  the  custom  of 
the  Creeks  to  renew  our  fires  every  year,  [alluding  to  the 
time  having  arrived  for  the  sitting  of  their  own  National 
Council.]  We  have  already  staid  longer  than  we  expected. 
Some  of  our  men  have  already  gone  home.  We  leave  some 
chiefs  to  represent  our  Nation,  and  Avhatever  may  he  de- 
termined, we  will  coincide  with  you  when  the  instrument 
of  writing  containing  it  shall  be  presented  to  us." 

The  main  points  embraced  in  both  these  speeches  are  the 
same — their  lingering  love  for  their  former  homes,  respect 
for  their  ancestry,  a  cautiously-expressed  sense  of  the  in- 
justice done  them  by  their  removal,  a  reluctant  resignation 
to  their  fate,  and  a  desire  to  cultivate  the  arts  of  peace  and 
to  provide  for  their  offspring.  The  reader  will  not  fail  to 
perceive  that  the  former  01"  these  addresses  is  the  speech 
of  one  wrho  is  virtually  a  white  man,  though  affectedly  in 
the  Indian  style,  while  in  the  latter  he  will  recognize  all 
the  characteristics  of  the  true  Indian.  If  his  taste  be  like 
mine,  he  will  not  hesitate  which  most  to  admire.  An  ele- 
gant touch  of  Indian  pathos  is  contained  in  the  expression 
of  M'Intosh,  "Our  fires  are  all  behind." 

These  were  followed  by  one  from  a  young  Chickasaw,  in 
which,  on  behalf  of  his  fellow-delegates  present,  he  took 
leave  of  the  Council,  assigning  as  a  reason  for  their  depart- 
ure the  unexpected  failure  of  the  Head-Chief,  and  others 
of  the  delegation,  to  attend,  their  own  want  of  instructions 
and  consequent  lack  of  authority  to  do  any  thing  that 
would  be  binding  upon  their  Nation,  illustrating  his  re- 
marks by  reference  to  some  of  their  peculiar  national  cus- 
toms in  their  diplomatic  intercourse,  and  expressing  his 
hearty  approval  of  the  objects  of  the  Council.  He  spoke 
in  English,  was  modest  and  apparently  educated,  and  spoke 
with  chasteness  and  fluency.  These  three  speeches,  by  this 
slow  process,  occupied  the  time  till  sunset.  After  a  public 
request  that  the  following  day — Sabbath — should  be  em- 
ployed by  the  ministers  present  in  religious  services,  they 
dispersed  as  unceremoniously  as  they  had  assembled. 


PREACHING  THROUGH  INTERPRETER.      77 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

THE    GREAT    C  0  U  NC  I  L  — CONTINUED. 

PURSUANT  to  request  arrangements  were  made  for  the 
Sabbath.  A  sermon  was  preached  on  Saturday  evening  by 
Rev.  J.  M.  Steele,  missionary  to  the  Choctaws ;  a  prayer 
meeting  was  held  at  sunrise  on  Sabbath  morning ;  the  first 
sermon  was  preached  by  Rev.  Mr.  Buttrick,  a  venerable 
Presbyterian  missionary  among  the  Cherokees ;  the  second 
morning  discourse  by  myself;  afternoon  sermon  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Jones,  Baptist  missionary  to  the  Cherokees;  evening, 
by  Rev.  L.  B.  Stateler,  our  missionary  to  the  Shawnees. 

The  day  was  spent  with  solemnity  and  apparent  interest, 
and,  I  trust,  not  without  profit.  The  sermons  were  publicly 
translated  only  into  Cherokee,  the  large  majority  in  attend- 
ance being  of  that  Nation.  We  had,  however,  quite  a  num- 
ber of  apparently  devout  worshipers ;  the  services  were 
enlivened  by  the  singing  of  hymns  in  the  Cherokee  and 
Delaware  languages,  and  an  occasional  Indian  prayer. 
The  whole  scene  was  imposing,  and  evidently  God  was 
there. 

This  was  my  first  attempt  at  preaching  through  an  inter- 
preter. I  had  fears  that  I  should  not  be  able  successfully 
to  conform  to  the  slow  process ;  and  the  more  so  from  the 
inexperience  of  my  pro  tern,  interpreter.  Rarely  have  I 
made  more  careful  preparation.  Taking  my  interpreter 
aside,  I  carefully  inquired  of  him  as  to  his  ability  to  express 
certain  thoughts  embraced  in  my  intended  sermon,  which, 
though  plain  and  simple,  I  feared  he  might  not  communi- 
cate correctly.  By  these  precautions  I  was  enabled  to 
speak  without  embarrassment. 

Much  depends  upon  an  interpreter ;  his  capacity  and  fidel- 


78  ouTrosTS  OF  ZION. 

ity.  He  may  either  make  or  mar  a  discourse.  This  was 
particularly  apparent  in  the  sermon  of  the  afternoon.  Rev. 
Mr.  Jones,  the  speaker,  was  a -good  preacher;  but  it 
was  quite  manifest  that  he  relied  greatly  upon  his  inter- 
preter, Chief  Justice  Bushy-Head,  himself  a  capable  preacher 
and  entirely  conversant  with  the  structure  and  capabilities 
of  the  language.  The  speaker  was  at  perfect  ease  in  this 
respect,  and  enabled  to  speak  with  fewer  pauses  and  less 
interruption  than  through  a  less  competent  medium. 

In  after  years,  habit  rendered  me  familiar  with  the  * 
process ;  insomuch  that  it  became  not  only  an  easy,  but  an 
agreeable  manner  of  addressing  a  congregation  ;  the  pauses 
affording  time  for  reflection  and  choice  of  thoughts  and 
words.  Never  have  I  preached  to  more  attentive  and  will- 
ing hearers  than  among  the  Indians ;  never  have  I  felt  more 
in  the  spirit  of  my  work ;  and  to  no  people  would  I  more 
cheerfully  proclaim  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  than  to 
them. 

I  have  said  that  the  sermons  were  publicly  translated 
only  into  Cherokee.  I  must  not  omit  an  interesting  inci- 
dent that  attracted  my  notice.  During  one  of  the  sermons 
I  observed  in  the  congregation  the  Pottawatamie  interpreter 
seated  upon  his  bench  with  his  venerable  old  Chief,  Wau- 
bon-sa,  noticed  in  a  former  chapter,  and  several  others  of 
his  tribe  seated  near ;  while  he,  in  an  undertone,  was,  with 
much  apparent  earnestness,  interpreting  the  sermon  to 
them.  I  subsequently  learned  that,  though  his  earthly  pil- 
grimage had  reached  nearly  ninety  years,  he  had  never 
before  heard  a  Gospel  sermon.  He  listened  with  seeming 
solemnity,  and  occasionally  gave  a  nod  of  approval.  We 
afterward  had  some  conversation  with  him.  The  aged  Chief 
expressed  his  conviction  of  the  truth  of  what  had  been  said. 
To  our  inquiries  as  to  his  willingness  to  receive  schools  and 
missions  among  l^is  people,  he  replied  that  they  "wanted 
schools,  but  wished  to  have  them  established  and  supported 
from  the  educational  fund  secured  to  them  by  treaty  with 
the  Government;"  thus  declining  any  gratuitous  service  by 


WILD   SPORTS.  79 

the  whites.  In  reference  to  missionary  effort  he  manifested 
an  equal  spirit  of  independence;  saying,  that  he  "would 
not  ask  them  to  come,"  but  if  any  chose  to  come  volun- 
tarily and  labor  in  his  tribe  he  and  his  people  would  receive 
them  kindly. 

This  band  of  Pottawatamies  then  resided  upon  Missouri 
River,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Council  Bluffs.  Near  to  that 
spot,  rffter  the  lapse  of  almost  a  score  of  years,  I  am  now 
penning  these  reminiscences.  The  "trail"  of  the  red  man 
'  is  still  seen  over  these  majestic  bluffs,  but  his  voice  is  no 
more  heard ;  he  has  passed  away.  Old  Wau-bon-sa  is 
"gathered  to  his  fathers."  The  name  of  a  stream,  not 
remote  from  my  dwelling,  perpetuates  his  memory.  The 
top  of  a  tree  on  its  bank  is  said  to  have  been  the  sepulchral 
place  of  the  aged  Chief. 

This  band  has  been  removed  further  west  and  incorporated 
with  another  remnant  of  the  same  tribe,  in  a  reserve  upon 
Kansas  River.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  an  institution 
among  them,  and  whatever  errors  and  false  reliances  they 
may  teach  them — doubtless  many — candor  compels  the  state- 
ment that  their  influence  over  the  tribe  and  labors  among 
them  have  done  much  toward  the  improvement  of  tlu-ir 
temporal  condition.  Would  that  we  Protestants  could 
always  emulate  their  zeal  and  pel-severance,  while  we  avoid 
their  ruinous  errors  ! 

The  day  thus  passed  with  general  good  order  and  appar- 
ent respect  for  the  Sabbath.  There  were  some  restless 
spirits,  however,  that  could  not  brook  the  restraint,  longing 
for  their  much- loved  sports.  In  the  afternoon  a  party  went 
off  to  the  prairie  for  a  ball-play,  a  most  exciting  athletic 
game  practiced  among  Indians,  which  I  may  hereafter 
describe.  Just  before  dark  the  delegation  of  the  Iowa  tribe 
undertook  to  "show  off"  the  Indian  in  their  own  peculiar 
style.  A  march  was  commenced  by  them  around  the  en- 
campment, which  soon  grew  into  a  large  procession  by  the 
falling  in  of  others  from  curiosity.  Starting  from  their 
own  lodge,  they  passed  in  succession  to  each  cabin  upon  the 


80  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

square,  stopped  before  the  door,  sang,  danced,  blew  "  horri- 
ble discord"  upon  their  cane  flutes,  and  finally  wound  up 
with  a  loud  yell  by  way  of  salute  to  the  inmates,  and  then 
moved  on  ;  so  passing  quite  around  the  ground.  They  got 
through  in  time  for  evening  service,  which  was  allowed  to 
proceed  without  molestation.  At  the  close,  however,  we 
found  an  opposing  attraction  on  hand,  without  the  line  of 
encampment,  in  the  shape  of  a  dance  among  some  wild 
Cherokees.  I  will  not  attempt  a  description  of  these 
Indian  dances,  as  practiced  in  their  own  country,  especially 
when  under  the  influence  of  liquor.  I  have  witnessed  them 
in  several  tribes.  Nothing  that  I  have  ever  seen  gives  so 
terrific  an  idea  of  savage  life.  The  songs,  yells,  and  shrieks 
are  furious  and  startling ;  and  the  whole  scene  is  savage, 
wild,  and  rude  beyond  all  previous  conception.  I  shall 
never  forget  the  first  night  I  ever  passed  under  hearing  of 
such  a  scene.  In  my  bed  the  piercing  intonations  produced 
a  shivering  sense  of  horror  which  drove  sleep  away,  though 
without  any  apprehension  of  personal  danger.  Large 
dances  had  been  held  for  several  evenings  preceding.  This, 
I  learn,  is  not  usual  at  their  National  Councils,  which  are 
conducted  with  greater  decorum  ;  but  this  extraordinary 
occasion  had  brought  together  an  assemblage  of  spectators 
too  large  and  too  rude  to  submit  to  control. 

The  only  two  tribes  present  that  seemed  to  reject  all  affect- 
ation of  resemblance  to  the  whites,  and  fully  to  retain  their 
primitive  customs  in  dress  and  manners,  were  the  lowas 
and  Osages ;  both  indigenous  tribes,  and  bearing  a  strong 
resemblance  to  each  other ;  their  dress  consisted  of  the  flap 
and  blanket ;  the  latter,  in  warm  weather,  thrown  loosely 
down  below  the  shoulders  and  arms,  and  at  times  laid 
aside  entirely,  leaving  no  covering  to  the  person  except  the 
flap ;  heads  and  feet  bare.  Their  heads  are  shaved  to  the 
crown  ;  two  small  ridges  of  hair,  erect  and  about  an  inch 
or  less  in  hight,  proceed  angularly  back  from  the  crown, 
with  a  lock  of  long  hair  in  the  center.  Both  tribes  paint 
profusely,  especially  the  lowas.  They  are  more  filthy  than 


IOWAS  AND   OSAGES.  81 

the  Osages.  The  home  of  the  lowas  was  upon  the  west 
side  of  Missouri  River,  below  the  Great  Nemaha,  in  the 
north  part  of  what  is  now  Kansas  Territory.  They  were 
the  most  perfect  specimens  of  savage  life  upon  the  ground, 
having  no  interpreter,  and  consequently  but  little  inter- 
course with  the  other  tribes ;  eating,  drinking,  sleeping, 
inarching,  dancing  in  their  own  way  to  the  apparent  aston- 
ishment of  the  other  Indians  themselves.  One  who  has 
not  seen  an  Indian  in  his  forest  home,  in  full  paint  and 
costume,  would  scarcely  conceive  the  hideousness  of  the 
sight. 

The  Osages  deserve  particular  notice,  not  so  much  from 
their  merits  as  their  other  peculiarities.  Their  present 
home  is  south  of  the  head-waters  of  the  Osage  or  Maries 
Des  Cygnes  River,,  in  rear  of  the  small  tribes  of  removed 
Indians  that  are  placed  immediately  west  of  the  Missouri 
State  line.  They  boast  that  all  these  lands  are  theirs  by  con- 
quest ;  that  they  are  not  indebted  to  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment for  their  homes  ;  as  one  of  their  chiefs  proudly  said 
to  me,  they  got  them  "by  fighting."  They  are  physically 
tine  specimens  of  the  human  form,  if  those  present  were  a 
sample ;  perfect  Patagonians  in  stature ;  well-formed  and 
portly  in  appearance ;  I  should  think  the  minimum  six  feet 
in  hight  and  two  hundred  avoirdupois  in  weight.  Each 
might  seem  to  be,  as,  indeed,  almost  every  one  claimed  to 
be,  a  chief.  Their  fine  person,  loosely  covered  with  a  large, 
rich,  red  blanket,  without  the  slightest  apparent  design  of 
intentional  immodesty,  presented  to  my  eye  an  interesting 
contrast  with  the  motley  frippery  of  others,  who  were  en- 
deavoring to  combine  the  civilized  with  the  savage  in  their 
outward  man. 

They  are  said  to  be  incredible  gormandizers ;  a  few  men 
will  consume  a  large  beef  in  a  very  short  time ;  especially, 
as  is  not  uncommon  with  Indians,  if  provided  at  others' 
expense.  The  late  Major  Armstrong  related  to  me  a  char- 
acteristic incident.  A  deputation  of  their  tribe,  on  some 
real  or  pretended  business,  paid  him  a  visit  as  Superintend- 


82  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

ent  of  Indian  Affairs.  They  encamped  near  his  agency, 
and,  during  their  stay,  according  to  custom,  drew  daily 
rations  of  beef  at  Government  expense.  The  business  over, 
they  still  lingered  in  camp,  and  were  fed  as  before.  At 
length,  desirous,  it  would  seem,  of  planning  their  future, 
movements,  they  sent  some  of  their  delegation  to  the  Major 
with  the  question,  "  How  long  will  you  feed  us  if  we  remain 
here?"  This  was  a  signal  for  their  dismissal.  "Not  a 
day  longer,"  was  the  reply;  and  they  summarily  decamped. 

Another  fact,  from  the  same  authority,  which  contrasts 
strangely  with  their  eating  propensities,  is  that  they  are 
capable  of  enduring  the  greatest  fatigue,  and  especially  in 
traveling  on  foot.  Their  ordinary  gait,  when  on  an  ex- 
press, or  other  matter  of  haste,  is  a  long  trot,  or  lope, 
which,  it  is  said,  they  can  keep  all  day.  An  Osage  on  foot 
is  employed  as  a  messenger  in  preference  to  an  other  Indian 
with  a  pony.  The  reward  of  such  a  day's  service  is  a  red 
blanket.  I  should  fear  the  imputation  of  credulity,  at  least, 
were  I  to  give  some  well-attested  statements  of  their  pedes- 
trian performances  which  I  have  heard.  They  are  expert 
swimmers,  withal ;  and  will,  it  is  said,  place  a  passenger 
upon  a  raft,  or  float  made  of  skins,  swim  by  its  side  and 
ferry  him  safely  over  their  swollen  streams,  steering  the 
craft  with  their  hands. 

The  Osages  can  not,  I  think,  be  so  bad  a  people  as  gen- 
erally represented.  I  make  no  pretensions  to  judging  of 
character  from  bumps  on  the  cranium,  but  there  are  in  their 
whole  appearance  too  many  marks  of  benevolence  and 
good-humor  to  conceal  a  character  essentially  bad.  True, 
they  lie  and  steal  to  an  extent  that  exceeds  most  other 
tribes  ;  but  then  they  believe  these  to  be  virtues.  Dexterity 
in  theft,  and  its  concealment,  are  among  them  the  high  road 
to  promotion.  But  was  not  this  true  of  the  Spartans  also  ? 
The  man  who  steals  most  is  made  "Big  Captain."  They 
steal  without  regard  to  the  value  or  utility  of  the  article. 
One  stole  a  jack-screw  from  the  garrison  at  Fort  Gibson. 
Having  no  knowledge  of  its  use,  he  carried  it  to  the  woods, 


OSAGES — TRAITS   OF   CHARACTER.  83 

and  amused  himself  by  turning  the  crank  and  projecting 
the  bar ;  next  he  placed  it  under  a  log,  and  experimented 
upon  its  power  by  forcing  it  up ;  at  length,  anxious  to  un- 
derstand its  inward  organization,  he  undertook  with  his  tom- 
ahawk to  drive  off  the  bands  and  expose  the  mechanism  ; 
failing  in  this,  he,  in  despair,  shouldered  the  instrument 
and  carried  it  back  to  the  fort  to  inquire  into  its  structure, 
and  thus  satisfy  his  curiosity. 

They  are  great  boasters.  A  common  Osage  reckons  that 
he  has  performed  quite  an  exploit  if  he  can  make  you 
believe  that  he  is  a  chief.  Shin-ga-was-sa,  a  Chief,  enter- 
tained me  some  time,  through  his  interpreter,  with  a  detail 
of  the  affairs  of  his  Nation ;  especially  his  contest,  as  he 
stated,  with  the  late  Head-Chief,  and  triumph  over  him  ; 
much  of  which  I  afterward  learned  to  be  untrue.  Withal, 
they  are  regarded  as  cowardly  and  treacherous  in  the  ex- 
treme. Whatever  apologies  I  may  have  made  for  their 
other  vices,  I -have  none  for  these. 

Still  they  have  redeeming  traits.  There  is  a  genial  good- 
nature in  their  very  appearance.  They  were  among  the 
first  Indians  to  come  out  and  meet  me  as  I  drove  up  to  the 
Council-Ground,  take  me  by  the  hand,  and  give  me  a  cordial 
welcome.  Nor  are  they  destitute  of  native  eloquence.  One 
of  their  chiefs,  aged  and  lame,  made,  a  few  days  before,  a 
most  dignified  and  courteous  reply  to  what  he  thought  an 
ungenerous  reflection  upon  his  tribe.  A  traditional  speech 
had  been  delivered  by  one  selected  for  the  purpose,  embody- 
ing facts  and  incidents  in  connection  with  past  Indian  his- 
tory, embracing  all  the  tribes ;  and  in  that  speech  some 
statement  had  been  made  which,  it  was  thought,  reflected 
improperly  upon  the  Osage  Nation,  and  involved  a  violation 
of  the  friendly  relations  of  the  Council.  On  their  assem- 
bling the  following  day,  the  old  Chief  limped  out  from  his 
lodge  and  addressed  them.  After  referring  to  the  supposed 
insult,  he  added,  "  When  I  come  out  of  my  lodge  I  look 
upon  that  flag,"  referring  to  the  banner  that  floated  above 
the  place  of  meeting;  "that,"  said  he,  "wipes  out  all  past 


84  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

stains'."  It  was  the  utterance  of  an  untutored  son  of  the 
forest,  but  it  would  not  have  disgraced  the  most  accom- 
plished statesman. 

The  Seminole  delegation  represented  a  portion  of  that 
tribe  lately  removed  West.  This  band  seemed  likely  to 
prove  inconvenient  neighbors  to  their  Indian  brethren  as 
they  had  been  to  the  whites.  They  obstinately  refused  to 
go  to  the  lands  assigned  them,  remaining  as  trespassers 
within  the  limits  of  the  Cherokees.  They  are  generally 
tall,  straight,  slender,  dressed  clean,  with  stately  walk  and 
haughty  appearance.  They  mingled  but  little  with  the 
other  tribes,  keeping  up  a  cold  and  clannish  reserve. 

This  extraordinary  convocation  presented  the  singular 
spectacle  of  an  assemblage  of  nations  spending  some  weeks 
together  in  grave  consultation,  with  no  definite  object  in 
view.  No  definite  measure  had  been  submitted,  and  it  will 
be  seen,  from  the  speeches,  that  none  such  is  referred  to. 
Yet  Mr.  Eoss  says,  "  The  business  of  the  Council  is  before 
you."  At  the  time  of  my  leaving,  it  seemed  probable  that 
this  vast  body,  after  eating  beef  a  week  or  two  more  at  the 
expense  of  the  Cherokees,  would  disperse  without  having 
done  any  thing  ;  a  result  which  I  have  since  learned  actually 
took  place.  Some  of  the  tribes  spent  three  months  or  more 
in  going,  staying,  and  returning.  Some  benefit,  however, 
would  doubtless  accrue  from  the  intercourse  of  the  ruder 
tribes  with  the  semi-civilized,  and  a  mutual  interchange  of 
thought  and  feeling.  Effort  would  be  stimulated,. afid  thus 
incidental,  if  not  direct  advantage  would  be  reaped  from 
the  association. 


NORTHWARD   TRAVEL.  85 


CHAPTER   IX. 

NORTHWARD     TRAVEL  —  TAH-LE-QUAH     TO 
FORT     SCOTT. 

IN  taking  leave  of  the  Council,  a  notice  is  due  of  my 
venerable  host.  REV.  YOUNG  WOLF  was  an  aged  Cherokee 
of,  I  should  think,  about  half-blood,  dignified  in  appear- 
ance, grave  and  courteous.  Rarely  have  I  met  with  so  fine 
a  sample  of  patriarchal  simplicity.  From  his  general  in- 
telligence and  consistent  piety,  I  should  judge  him  to  have 
been  an  able  and  effective  Indian  preacher.  He  was  then  in 
declining  health,  and  in  a  short  time  "was  gathered  to  his 
fathers."  I  enjoyed  his  society  greatly,  and  at  parting 
received  his  patriarchal  blessing. 

Time,  and  urgent  duties  ahead,  would  not  allow  me  to 
await  the  tardy  and  uncertain  movements  of  our  expected 
Indian  company.  Accordingly,  taking  leave  of  my  friends 
at  Tah-le-quah  on  the  morning  of  Monday,  June  2Gth,  I  set 
my  face  northward  with  a  single  traveling  companion,  Rev. 
L.  B.  Stateler,  missionary  to  the  Shawnees.  Our  next 
point  of  destination  was  the  Manual -Labor  School  among 
the  Shffwnees,  near  the  mouth  of  Kansas  River,  the  point 
where  the  western  line  of  the  State  of  Missouri  strikes  Mis- 
souri River,  supposed  to  be  about  three  hundred  miles. 
This  distance  we  proposed  to  make  before  the  ensuing  Sab- 
bath. Instead  of  inclining  east,  and  taking  the  more  fre- 
quented route  through  the  borders  of  the  neighboring  States 
of  Arkansas  and  Missouri,  we  determined  to  steer  directly 
north,  keeping  entirely  within  Indian  territory.  With  this 
intent,  we  furnished  ourselves  with  a  supply  of  provisions 
and  camp  utensils  adapted  to  the  journey. 

Traveling  north  about  fifteen  miles,  we  struck  the  mill- 


86  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

tary  road  leading  from  Fort  Gibson  to  the  old  evacuated 
post  of  Fort  Wayne,  near  the  north-western  corner  of  Ar- 
kansas. These  military  roads  are  laid  out  by  the  Govern- 
ment from  post  to  post.  The  course  through  the  prairies 
was  marked  out,  on  our  left,  by  a  single  furrow  of  a  great 
plow,  and  the  only  improvement  consisted  of  throwing 
stones  into  the  bottoms  of  the  streams  so  as  to  render  the 
fords  passable. 

Midday  a  little  past,  we  reached  the  Moravian  mission 
and  school,  known  as  Spring  Place.  What  indefatigable 
zeal  and  perseverance  do  this  people  manifest  in  the  cause 
of  missions  !  Where  is  the  place  that  they  are  not  found  ? 
Though  a  small  band  with  feeble  means,  they  set  an  exam- 
ple to  all  Christendom.  This  mission  was  under  the  charge 
of  Kev.  Messrs.  Reeder  and  Bishop,  both  unmarried  men. 
They  lived  there  alone,  performing  their  own  domestic 
labors ;  all  had  the  aspect  of  neatness  and  comfort.  Here 
we  grazed  our  horses,  dined,  and  had  a  season  of  prayer 
with  several  missionary  brethren;  camped  at  night  upon 
the  bank  of  a  small  stream  called  Mosely's  Creek,  put  our 
horses  to  grass,  spread  our  buffalo-skin  under  the  branches 
of  a  friendly  oak,  committed  ourselves  to  God,  and  rested 
securely. 

27th.  Off  early.  Left  the  military  road  near  the  State 
line,  and  took  another  leading  directly  to  the  Seneca  Mills. 
Passed  through  a  corner  of  Arkansas  and  Missouri  at  their 
western  junction;  the  famous  "36°  30'"  of  the  Missouri 
Compromise ;  and  thence  back  west  of  the  lines  again. 
Beautiful  streams  abound,  running  west  into  the  Neosho  or 
Grand  River,  with  fine  springs  gushing  from  the  projecting 
rocks.  A  return  to  limestone  water  proved  very  grateful. 
In  the  afternoon  we  entered  the  country  of  the  Seneca  In- 
dians. A  fine  grist  and  saw  mill  has  here  been  erected  for 
them  by  the  Government ;  but  so  idle  and  improvident  were 
these  poor  creatures  that  their  mills  proved  a  curse  rather 
than  a  blessing.  Being  contiguous  to  a  fertile  section  of 
Missouri,  large  quantities  of  grain  were  brought  to  the 


SENECA   INDIANS.  87 

mills,  the  toll  for  grinding  being  distributed  among  the 
tribe.  This  led  many  to  abandon  their  little  farms,  give  up 
their  partially-formed  habits  of  industry,  and  rely  upon  the 
pittance  divided  to  them  from  the  mill ;  half-starving  them- 
selves and  families,  and  spending  their  time  in  idleness  and 
dissipation. 

The  Senecas  have  a  fine  country,  but  it  bore  the  appearance 
of  neglect  and  dilapidation.  Fields  were  turned  out,  cabins 
vacated,  and  numbers  said  to  be  on  the  decrease.  The 
work  of  destruction  is  forwarded  by  a  large  distillery  just 
over  the  Missouri  line,  to  which,  it  is  said,  they  carry  much 
of  their  toll  grain  and  exchange  it  for  whisky.  Brother 
Adams,  a  Muhnwk  preacher,  was  appointed  to  labor  among 
them.  He  was  said  to  be  a  good  man,  and,  I  think,  before 
the  close  of  the  year  was  called  to  his  reward.  Passing  a 
few  miles  beyond  the  mills  we  encamped  in  a  beautiful 
spot,  and  enjoyed  a  comfortable  night's  repose. 

28th.  Traveled  through  a  district  of  country  owned  by  a 
small  band  of  the  Shawnees  who  have  separated  from  the 
main  body  of  the  tribe.  Thence  we  passed  into  the  country 
of  the  Quaw-paws.  This  little  tribe  had  for  several  years  a 
missionary  among  them  from  Missouri  Conference ;  but 
little,  I  think,  was  accomplished  by  the  effort.  Several  of 
these  fragments  of  tribes  were  united  under  the  Neosho 
Agency,  the  site  of  which  we  passed  in  the  morning.  The 
lands  continue  generally  good,  the  prairie  being  well  inter- 
spersed with  woodland.  On  passing  the  thirty-seventh  par- 
allel of  latitude  we  entered  the  country  since  organized  as 
Kansas  Territory. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  day  we  had  a  heavy  fall  of  rain  ; 
sought  shelter  in  an  Indian  hovel,  but  finding  this  to  be 
worse  than  out  of  doors,  took  the  road  again,  and  early  in 
the  afternoon  arrived  at  the  bank  of  Pomme  De  Terre  or 
Spring  River,  where  we  were  hospitably  entertained  by  a 
mixed-blood  Cherokee,  named  Joseph  Rogers,  a  manly, 
intelligent  Indian.  He  was  living  upon  the  "  Neutral 
Lands,"  a  tract  of  eight  hundred  thousand  acres  ceded  by 


88  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

the  Government  to  the  Cherokees  under  the  treaty  of  1835, 
the  validity  of  which,  as  before  seen,  has  never  been  ac- 
knowledged by  the  body  of  the  Nation.  There  were  but  few 
inhabitants  upon  these  lands ;  no  jurisdiction  is  extended 
over  them,  and  consequently  they  live  "without  law." 
About  twenty  miles  west  of  this  lies  the  country  of  the 
Osages,  and  about  fifty  miles  distant  are  their  principal 
towns. 

A  noon  repast  over  with  our  Indian  host,  we  addressed 
ourselves  to  crossing  the  stream.  Spring  River  is  a  consid- 
erable stream,  navigable  for  flat-boats,  running  west  into 
the  Neosho,  then  swollen  by  the  late  rains.  Rogers  sent  our 
horses  to  another  crossing  and  undertook  himself  to  trans- 
port my  buggy  and  baggage  by  placing  it  astride  a  large 
canoe.  He  appeared  sanguine  of  success ;  we  had  many 
misgivings,  but  it  seemed  the  only  alternative.  It  was 
determined,  nem.  con.,  that  I  should  accompany  the  freight, 
and  endeavor  to  steady  it ;  and  that  my  traveling  compan- 
ion, not  being  a  swimmer,  should,  for  greater  safety,  be 
taken  over  in  a  separate  canoe  by  another  man.  All  was 
adjusted  according  to  the  programme ;  the  buggy  carefully 
balanced  astride  the  unsteady  craft ;  I,  with  outer  clothing 
doffed,  took  my  position,  and  we  shoved  off.  But  scarcely 
had  we  struck  the  rapid  current  when,  by  a  sudden  rock  of 
our  craft,  buggy,  baggage,  and  all  were  precipitated  into  the 
stream.  Whether  voluntarily  or  involuntarily  I  know  not, 
but  so  it  was,  I  went  overboard  with  them,  and  left  our  Cher- 
okee in  full  and  quiet  possession.  The  instinct  of  self-pres- 
ervation led  me  at  first  to  make  for  the  shore,  but  after 
swimming  a  little  way,  finding  myself  able  to  master  the 
current,  I  wheeled  around  and  set  about  rescuing  the  float- 
ing baggage,  and  in  a  little  time,  with  the  help  of  others, 
all  that  appeared  upon  the  surface  was  safe  on  land.  But 
part  of  our  property  was  not  gifted  with  the  capacity  of 
floating  ;  and  the  next  process  was  wading,  swimming,  and 
diving  for  the  lost  articles.  I  succeeded  in  bringing  up  the 
harness,  another  rescued  other  articles,  and  soon  all  that 


SAFELY   OVER — STAMPEDE.  89 

was  valuable  was  saved.  The  first  ducking  in  a  stream, 
like  the  first  gun  in  a  battle,  makes  a  man  courageous ;  so, 
being  fairly  "in  for  it,"  we  swam  our  buggy,  the  cause  of 
the  disaster,  over,  and  deposited  it  upon  the  opposite  shore 
to  await  us.  This  done,  we  returned  with  our  kind  friend 
to  spend  the  night  in  drying  our  goods,  thankful  to  a  kind 
Providence  for  our  escape.  In  early  life  I  was  fond  of 
swimming.  This  was  the  first  time  that  it  was  called  into 
requisition  to  save  my  own  life.  Repeated  instances  of  its 
utility  have  occurred  since. 

29th.  By  sunrise  we  found  ourselves  on  the  opposite 
shore,  harnessed  and  rigged,  and  launched  out  into  a  bound- 
less prospect  of  prairie,  being  a  branch  of  the  great  west- 
ern openings,  since  so  familiar  to  me,  reaching  with  little 
intermission  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  We  had,  as  we 
judged,  lost  by  our  disaster  one  full  day's  travel,  or  rather 
night's  travel ;  as  we  anticipated  that  much  of  our  remain- 
ing journey  must,  to  avoid  the  flies,  be  performed  in  the 
night ;  there  being  no  relief  from  them  in  the  day,  except 
by  sheltering  in  a  grove  and  kindling  a  fire  or  "smudge," 
the  smoke  of  which  drove  them  away.  From  this  point  to 
the  Missouri  River  we  were  mostly  in  open  prairie,  there 
being  only  small  strips  of  timber  upon  the  margins  of  the 
streams. 

We  soon  reached  the  military  road  leading  from  Fort 
Gibson  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  which  passes  within  a  few 
miles  of  our  destination.  The  first  reach  was  made  without 
much  difficulty.  Arrived  at  a  grove  we  deemed  it  prudent 
to  take  shelter.  Our  first  effort  was  to  kindle  a  fire,  but  the 
water  had  rendered  our  matches  useless.  The  next  resort 
was  to  flint  and  powder,  but  the  high  wind  interfered  with 
this.  Meanwhile  our  horses  became  furious  from  the  attack 
of  swarms  of  flies,  broke  from  us,  and  started  upon  a  full 
lope  over  the  boundless  prairie,  they  knew  or  cared  not 
whither.  The  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  were  pouring  most 
intensely  upon  us,  and  in  the  tall  grass  we  followed  on  foot 
with  great  difficulty.  But  what  were  we  to  do  ?  To  lose 

8 


90  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

our  horses  at  this  distance  from,  human  aid  were  bad 
indeed.  So  off  we  bolted  at  the  top  of  our  pedestrian 
speed.  But  the  distance  between  us  increased,  and  our  pur- 
suit would  have  been  unavailing  but  for  their  turning  their 
course  and  taking  refuge  in  the  timber  upon  the  stream. 
My  companion  outwinded  me  upon  a  long  race,  and  guided 
by  the  bell,  came  up  to  them  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream 
which  had  providentially  checked  them.  He  raised  the 
whoop,  I  responded,  and  soon  coming  up  found  him,  to 
my  great  joy,  in  possession  of  the  captives,  both  of  us 
much  exhausted  by  the  race.  Mounting  our  steeds  bare- 
backed, and  guiding  them,  he  by  a  halter  and  I  by  the  bell- 
collar,  we  marched  them  in  triumph  back  to  the  camp.  I 
was  forced  to  admit  my  comrade's  superiority  on  land, 
though  I  had  outdone  him  in  the  water. 

By  the  aid  of  the  rifle  fire  was  at  length  raised,  the  horses 
were  brought  up  to  it,  the  smoke  soon  dispersed  the  flies, 
and  the  poor  creatures  stood  hovering  over  the  fire  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day,  even  to  the  singeing  of  their  eyelids 
and  noses.  Those  who  have  never  traveled  in  our  large 
western,  and  especially  south-western  prairies,  in  fly-time, 
would  form  little  conception  of  the  severity  of  these  blood- 
suckers. They  rise  from  the  grass  as  the  animal  passes, 
fasten  themselves  upon  him  in  immense  numbers,  and  draw 
blood  from  every  pore.  It  is  said,  and  I  doubt  not  its 
truth,  that  they  will  kill  a  horse  if  not  relieved.  As  might 
be  expected,  a  horse  becomes  furious  and  ungovernable ;  it 
is  extremely  difficult  even  to  extricate  him  from  the 
harness. 

All  this  over,  we  took  our  breakfast  about  twelve  o'clock, 
and  spent  the  day  in  keeping  up  smoke  and  fighting  flies. 
In  this  grove  I  was  shown  a  specimen  of  Indian  hieroglyph- 
ics, left  by  the  old  Delaware  Captain,  Ketcham,  and  his 
party,  on  their  way  to  the  Council.  The  bark  had  been 
removed  from  a  tree  standing  by  the  roadside,  and  signs, 
drawn  with  a  charcoal,  left,  indicating  their  tribe,  the  num- 
ber of  days  they  had  been  out,  and  the  loss  of  one  of  Ketch- 


NIGHT   TRAVELING.  91 

am's  horses,  with  perhaps  other  particulars.  The  death  of 
the  animal  was  signified  by  the  representation  of  a  horse 
lying  upon  his  back  with  his  feet  up. 

About  six  in  the  afternoon  we  harnessed  up  and  ventured 
out  again  into  the  open  prairie.  It  was  over  twenty  miles 
to  the  next  timber.  We  had  not  proceeded  far  till  we  found 
that  we  had  hazarded  too  much.  The  flies  attacked  our  ani- 
mals. We  could  only  control  them  by  keeping  them  at 
rapid  'speed.  So  we  drove  at  a  fast  rate  till  dark,  then 
slackened  speed  and  pursued  our  way  in  peace. 

Night  traveling  upon  the  prairies,  in  fine  weather,  is  quite 
pleasant,  affording  magnificent  prospects  and  delightful 
opportunities  for  contemplation.  After  traveling  all  the 
night  we  stopped,  about  daylight,  at  an  Indian  camping- 
ground  upon  a  small  stream  called  Drywood,  grazed  our 
animals  and  took  our  breakfast.  Our  provisions  had  shared 
in  the  damage  accruing  from  our  water  adventure  and  be- 
come unfit  for  use.  No  others  were  to  be  had,  and  for  the 
remainder  of  the  way  we  were  upon  short  allowance.  Here 
we  found  a  bed  of  stone-coal,  lying  out  upon  the  surface, 
and  apparently  rich.  I  collected  and  burned  some  of  it, 
and  found  it  seeming  of  good  quality. 

30th.  Weary  and  worn,  we  determined  to  go  by  the  way 
of  Fort  Scott,  though  a  few  miles  out  of  our  direct  course, 
with  the  hope  that  we  might  obtain  some  refreshment  and 
much  needed  repose.  A  drive  of  ten  miles  brought  us  to 
the  place. 


92  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   X. 

NORTHWARD    TRAVEL  — FORT    SCOTT    TO    MIS- 
SOURI   RIVER. 

FORT  SCOTT  has  of  late  become  a  point  of  some  noto- 
riety, from  its  connection  with  the  Kansas  struggle.  At  the 
time  of  this  visit  it  was  occupied  by  a  garrison.  Large 
Government  expenditures  were  subsequently  made,  good 
buildings  were  erected,  and  the  site  well  improved.  After 
an  occupancy  of  some  years  it  was  evacuated,  and  the  site 
and  improvements  sold  for  a  trifling  consideration,  and 
converted  to  private  purposes. 

The  situation  is  upon  the  Marmaton  River,  a  few  miles 
west  of  the  Missouri  line.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  command- 
ing position,  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  section  of  country,  and 
contiguous  to  considerable  bodies  of  timber.  The  neigh- 
boring scenery  is  magnificent. 

Repose,  however,  was  not  to  be  found  here.  The  only 
accommodation  for  travelers  was  at  a  cabin  hotel,  some 
hundreds  of  yards  from  the  fort,  but  very  difficult  of  access. 
This  was  crowded  to  overflowing  with  a  class  of  men  who 
cared  little  for  the  comfort  of  a  weary  stranger ;  so  that 
this  part  of  our  design  was  frustrated. 

We  had  well-nigh  failed  of  success  in  another  depart- 
ment. An  application  was  rendered  necessary  to  the  mil- 
itary gentlemen  at  the  fort  for  permission  to  have  some 
slight  but  indispensable  repairs  upon  my  carriage  by  the 
mechanics  in  their  employ,  for  which  I  was  willing  to  pay. 
Such  aid  is  ordinarily  afforded  at  our  military  posts  to  trav- 
elers, in  case  of  disaster.  Among  no  class  of  men  have  I 
met  with  more  uniform  courtesy  and  urbanity  than  the  offi- 
cers at  our  military  stations.  Many  of  them  are  gentlemen 


BEIEF  AUTHORITY.  93 

in  the  true  sense  of  the  word;  men  whose  hearts  arc 
wanned  with  the  "milk  of  human  kindness."  Personal 
favors  received  at  their  hands  are  not  forgotten.  But  there 
are  others  of  small  caliber,  who  seem  to  suppose  that  their 
own  official  dignity  is  to  he  supported  by  a  supercilious 
churlishness,  and  a  display  of  authority  toward  any  whom 
misfortune  or  necessity  may  have  placed  in  their  power. 
Into  the  hands  of  such  a  one  I  was  thrown,  in  the  person 
of  a  little  acting  Quarter-Master,  who  controlled  the  work- 
shops. Situated  as  I  was,  I  "made  a  virtue  of  necessity," 
submitted  to  his  impertinence,  obtained  what  I  could,  with 
any  treatment,  and  at  any  price,  and  left,  with  an  ardent 
hope  that  I  may  not  again  be  thrown  upon  the  "  cruelty  " 
of  their  "tender  mercies."  Years  after  the  evacuation,  I 
had  something  to  do  with  Fort  Scott,  in  a  different  relation, 
with  not  much  more  satisfactory  results  ;  but  of  that  here- 
after. 

After  passing  the  "Neutral  Lands,"  our  way  had  lain 
over  a  large  body  of  Government  land  not  appropriated  to 
any  Indian  tribes.  Weary  as  we  were,  we  set  out  again  in 
the  evening,  traveled  till  about  two  hours  after  midnight, 
camped  on  the  bank  of  a  streamlet,  turned  our  horses  loose 
to  graze,  and  slept  about  two  hours. 

July  1st.  Off  at  an  early  hour ;  passed  through  the  Pot- 
tawatamie  lands ;  with  difficulty  crossed  the  Little  Osage, 
considerably  swollen,  and  arrived  at  Jeru's  Trading-House, 
a  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  upon  the  Great 
Osage,  or  Maries  des  Cygnes.  This,  if  I  mistake  not,  is 
the  place  where  Rev.  E.  R.  A.,  in  company  with  Bishop 
Roberts,  played  so  successfully  upon  Catholic  ears  with 
the  episcopal  title,  as  detailed  in  Doctor  Elliott's  Life  of 
Roberts. 

Crossing  the  river,  we  entered  the  lands  ceded  to  the 
Miami  Indians,  then  about  being  removed  from  their  former 
home  in  Indiana.  Subsequently  we  passed  the  lands  be- 
longing to  the  Weas,  Peorias,  Pyankeshaws,  and  perhaps 
other  fragmentary  tribes  that  have  been  placed  by  the  Gov- 


94  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

eminent  upon  the  Western  border.  Stopped  to  breakfast 
upon  the  bank  of  a  small  stream  of  bad  water,  which,  with 
our  damaged  provisions,  constituted  rather  an  unenviable 
repast.  As  we  progressed  northward  the  flies  became  less 
troublesome,  and  this,  together  with  the  shortness  of  our 
available  stores,  determined  us  to  hazard  day  traveling, 
although  our  already  jaded  animals  could  ill  bear  it. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Cold  Water  Grove. 
Here  is  truly  a  place  of  refreshing  to  the  way-worn  visitant. 
Off  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  main 
road  is  a  grove,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a  deep  ravine,  and 
near  the  bottom  gushes  out  a  stream  of  the  coldest,  purest 
limestone  water.  The  place  to  me  was  one  of  solemn  inter- 
est from  the  associations  of  thought  which  it  called  up. 
Here,  about  a  year  previous,  the  venerable  Bishop  Roberts, 
on  his  last  frontier  tour,  with  Rev.  E.  R.  Ames  as  his  travel- 
ing companion,  then  in  the  prime  of  his  manhood,  stopped 
and  sought  rest.  And  here,  if  rumor  be  not  at  fault, 
through  an  inadvertence,  certainly  not  characteristic  of 
either  of  these  sharp-sighted  frontier's-men,  their  team  was 
permitted  to  run  away  with  the  carriage,  and  some  time  was 
spent  in  repairs.  I  find  in  my  memoranda  of  that  date 
thoughts  like  the  following :  "  In  this  grove  the  aged  serv- 
ant of  God  sought  a  few  hours.'  repose  ;  now  he  rests  in  the 
groves  of  paradise.  From  this  gushing  stream  he  drank ; 
now  he  slakes  his  thirst  from  the  waters  of  life  eternal, 
flowing  fresh  from  the  throne  of  God." 

Evidences  were  found,  all  along  the  frontier,  of  the  deep 
impression  made  by  this  visit  of  the  venerable  man  of  God. 
The  Indians  are  peculiarly  impressed  by  a  commanding 
form  and  personal  appearance.  Few  men  have  been  more 
highly  gifted  in  this  than  the  departed  Bishop.  This  struck 
them  with  awe  and  respect,  while  his  fine,  genial  spirit  and 
patriarchal  kindness  won  their  affections.  Many  inquiries 
were  made  respecting  him.  Some  had  not  heard  of  his  de- 
cease ;  and  many  whites  as  well  as  Indians  thought  them- 
selves honored  to  say,  "He  spent  some  days  at  my  house/' 


SABBATH   DAY'S  JOURNEY.  95 

or,  "He  staid  all  night  with  me,"  seeming  to  feel  that  they 
had  "entertained  an  angel  unawares." 

Here  we  had  indications  of  a  storm.  We  accordingly 
hoppled  our  horses,  turned  them  loose,  and  set  about  depos- 
iting our  baggage  under  the  shelving  rocks,  and  making  the 
best  arrangements  in  our  power  for  spending  the  night ; 
but  suddenly  the  clouds  passed  away,  the  air  became  cool — 
we  toojt  up  our  horses,  reloaded,  and  about  sunset  emerged 
from  our  grotto  into  the  open  plainj  once  more  resuming 
our  journey.  The  near  approach  of  the  Sabbath  urged  us 
on  ;  and  this  motive  was  quickened  by  the  demands  of  appe- 
tite, now  becoming  rather  imperious.  We  traveled  on  till 
about  midnight,  hoping  to  find  timber  to  shelter  us,  the 
night  being  cold.  At  length,  despairing  of  success,  our- 
selves and  our  animals  exceedingly  weary,  we  stopped  in  the 
open  prairie.  The  wind  blew  fiercely,  and  we  were  much 
chilled.  Kindling  a  little  fire  from  some  small  wood  which 
I  had  transported  in  my  buggy,  we  turned  our  horses  loose, 
spread  our  buffalo-skin  under  the  carriage,  placed  our  bag- 
gage, blankets,  and  umbrellas  around  it,  committed  ourselves 
to  the  care  of  Him  who  "giveth  to  his  beloved  sleep,"  crept 
under  our  shelter,  and  slept  soundly  till  daylight.  As  light 
appeared  we  found  ourselves  within  a  short  distance  of  a 
grove,  which  the  darkness  of  the  night  had  concealed  from 
our  view. 

2d.  This  was  the  holy  Sabbath,  a  day,  in  all  my  frontier 
labors  and  travels,  sacredly  set  apart  for  rest.  But  we  were 
now  within  striking  distance  of  our  place  of  destination — 
which,  but  for  disaster,  we  should  have  reached  ere  this. 
Rest  here  was  impossible.  Hunger  urged  us  on  ;  and  this, 
with  our  desire  to  enjoy  an  opportunity  of  public  worship 
with  our  brethren,  made  out  a  case  which  we  felt  to  warrant 
a  brief  "  Sabbath  day's  journey."  So  having  decided,  we 
harnessed  up,  and  a  few  hours'  drive  brought  us  into  the 
fine,  rich  country  of  the  Shawnees.  My  companion,  the 
missionary,  turned  aside  to  spend  the  day  among  the  people 
of  his  charge,  while  I  drove  on  to  the  Manual  Labor  School, 


96  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

introduced  myself  and  met  a  hearty  welcome.  After  par- 
taking of  needed  refreshments,  and  a  little  repose,  I  joined 
in  the  labors  and  privileges  of  the  day,  preaching  my  first 
sermon  in  what  is  now  Kansas  Territory. 

The  Shawnee  Indians  were  placed  by  the  Government  in 
possession  of  a  very  valuable  body  of  land,  cornering  upon 
Missouri  River,  below  the  mouth  of  Kaw,  or  Kansas  River, 
extending  south  along  the  Missouri  line  some  thirty  miles, 
and  reaching  as  far,  or  further  west,  into  the  interior;  a 
large  provision  for  a  tribe  numbering  only  about  one  thou- 
sand men,  women,  and  children.  These  lands,  lying  in  the 
vicinity  of  large  streams,  afforded  considerable  bodies  of 
good  timber,  interspersed  with  fertile  prairies.  The  cession 
of  these  lands  to  the  Government,  in  1853-4,  with  the  indi- 
vidual rights  to  choice  lands  retained  by  them,  have  since 
made  the  Shawnee  people  rich. 

The  value  of  these  lands  was  enhanced  by  their  con- 
tiguity to  Independence,  and  other  towns  in  Missouri  which 
drive  a  large  business  in  the  commerce  of  the  plains.  In- 
dependence was,  for  many  years,  the  great  outfitting  and 
starting-point  for  the  plains.  Even  as  early  as  the  time  of 
which  I  speak,  the  trade  was  becoming  extensive  and  im- 
portant. Since  that  it  is  vastly  enlarged,  and  has  mostly 
been  transferred  to  other  points.  At  the  time  of  which  I 
write,  emigrants  to  Oregon  and  California,  Santa  Fe  expe- 
ditions, Government  exploring  parties,  army  provision 
trains,  etc.,  all  set  out  from  Independence,  and  passed 
through  the  Shawnee  lands.  A  stirring  scene,  even  then, 
was  presented,  contrasted  with  the  country  through  which  I 
had  been  traveling.  All  the  bustle  and  excitement  of  the 
commerce  of  the  plains  appeared  before  us — scenes  that  in 
later  years  have  become  familiar. 

I  have  been  somewhat  minute  in  the  details  and  incidents 
of  this  last  trip,  with  the  view  of  affording  the  reader  some 
correct  representation  of  frontier  life  and  travel ;  more  so 
than  I  purpose  to  be  in  subsequent  journeys,  though  afford- 
ing equal  or  greater  variety  of  incident.  At  that  time  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  97 

scene  was  novel  to  myself,  and  each  succeeding  adventure 
made  an  impression.  But  as  years  of  this  kind  of  labor 
have  rolled  on,  these  scenes  have  become  familiar.  Expo- 
sures, risks,  and  hardships  grow  common,  and  adventures 
come  so  thick  and  fast  that  they  degenerate  into  every-day 
occurrences,  and  almost  cease  to  excite  attention. 

Missionary  life  upon  the  frontier,  as  it  is  painted  to  the 
fancy  at  a  distance,  is  clothed  in  romance;  and  a  desire  is 
awakened  in  imaginative  minds  to  share  in  the  scenes  that 
they  have  heard  so  graphically  described.  But  in  a  little 
season  of  actual  experience  the  poetry  wears  off;  the  stern 
realities  are  encountered,  and  many  faint  by  the  way,  or 
sigh  for  the  scenes  they  have  left. 

9 


08  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND— NOTES  BY  THE  WAY. 

THE  institution  known  as  the  Indian  Manual-Labor 
School,  but  more  commonly  called  the  "Methodist  Mis- 
sion," is  the  first  missionary  experiment  upon  a  large  scale 
of  educating  Indian  youth,  not  only  in  common  English 
literature,  but  in  habits  of  industry  and  the  duties  of  domes- 
tic life,  by  taking  the  entire  control  of  them,  boarding, 
lodging,  clothing,  and  instructing  them.  Experience  had 
shown  that  little  could  be  accomplished  by  schools  among 
them  while  the  children  remained  with  their  parents,  subject 
to  all  the  caprices  and  irregularities  of  Indian  life.  This 
suggested  the  idea  of  a  large  establishment  of  the  character 
referred  to,  A  site  was  selected,  appropriations  made  by 
the  Missionary  Society,  aid  obtained  from  the  Government, 
buildings  erected,  a  farm  inclosed,  and  the  institution  had 
now  been  some  years  in  successful  operation.  At  the  time 
of  my  visit  it  was  under  the  superintendence  of  Rev.  J.  C. 
Berry  man. 

The  site  is  about  two  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  State 
line,  and  about  six  miles  from  the  point  where  this  line 
strikes  Missouri  River.  A  better  selection  could  scarcely 
have  been  found.  The  prairie  lands  lie  well ;  timber  is  con- 
tiguous ;  the  farm  reaches  to  the  great  California  thorough- 
fare ;  altogether  it  is  one  of  the  finest  situations  I  have  seen 
west  of  the  Mississippi.  The  main  buildings  are  of  brick, 
large  and  commodious.  Besides  these  there  are  mechanics' 
shops,  in  which  the  boys  are  instructed  in  handicraft  labor. 
They  are  also  employed  upon  the  farm,  while  the  girls  are 
taught  to  sew,  spin,  weave,  and  perform  all  necessary 


INDIAN   MANUAL   LABOR  SCHOOL.  99 

domestic  avocations.  About  one  hundred  students  were  in 
attendance.  All  were  orderly,  and  some  had  made  a  pro- 
fession of  Christianity.  The  school,  though  situated  on  the 
Shawnee  lands,  was  designed  for  the  benefit  of  all  the  con- 
tiguous tribes,  and  most  of  them  shared  in  its  benefits.  The 
institution,  so  far  as  I  could  judge,  had,  up  to  that  time, 
been  well  conducted,  and  had  amply  demonstrated  the  prac- 
ticability and  usefulness  of  the  plan.  A  few  slaves,  even 
then,  were,  or  had  been,  held  by  the  preachers  engaged  at 
the  institution ;  but  it  was  apologized  for  as  a  temporary 
arrangement  justified  by  peculiar  circumstances,  while  the 
propriety  of  our  General  Rule  was  not  questioned.  Subse- 
quent changes  will  appear  in  another  part  of  this  volume. 

At  this  place  I  was  kindly  entertained,  and  spent  a  few 
days  in  recruiting  strength  for  the  remainder  of  my  journey 
ami  acquainting  myself  with  the  plans  and  operations  of 
the  institution,  desiring  to  avail  myself  of  their  experience 
in  founding  our  own,  which  was  intended  to  be  of  the  same 
character. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  institution  were  two 
others  of  similar  character,  but  upon  a  less  extended  scale ; 
one  under  the  patronage  of  the  Friends,  and  known  as  the 
"Quaker  Mission,"  and  the  other  conducted  by  the  Bap- 
tists. Both  were  then  doing  a  good  work.  The  Baptists 
had  erected  a  neat  church  edifice,  and  had  a  regular  organi- 
zation. Changes  passed  upon  these  also.  Each  of  them 
had,  in  after  years,  "a  history"  in  the  struggles  and  con- 
vulsions then  undreamed  of;  these  will  be  noted  in  their 
proper  place. 

In  the  afternoon  previous  to  the  4th  of  July,  the  Super- 
intendent set  out  with  some  forty  of  his  pupils,  male  and 
female,  to  attend  a  Sunday  school  celebration  at  Independ- 
ence. They  had  been  well  trained  in  vocal  music  by  a 
competent  instructor,  and  their  presence  was  calculated 
greatly  to  highten  the  interest  of  such  an  occasion. 

Much  suffering  had  been  endured  during  the  trip  from  a 
cause  seemingly  small ;  the  simple  bite  of  a  tick  upon  my 


100  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

side,  which,  becoming  chafed  and  inflamed  in  the  extreme 
heat,  at  length  formed  an  abscess  requiring  the  use  of  the 
lance.  This  operation  over  I  was  gradually  relieved.  This 
insect  is  exceedingly  annoying  in  the  region  of  the  Arkan- 
sas. He  fastens  upon  the  body,  buries  his  head  in  the  flesh 
up  to  his  shoulders,  and,  when  torn  away,  often  leaves  it 
imbedded  there.  I  have  heard  of  a  case  resulting  in  death. 

My  horse  being  much  jaded  I  determined  to  put  all  on 
board  a  boat  and  go  down  to  St.  Louis  by  water.  With 
this  intent,  upon  the  4th  of  July,  I  removed  to  the  bank  of 
Missouri  River,  at  a  point  then  called  "Kansas  Landing," 
with  a  single  log  warehouse  and  dwelling,  now  known  as 
"Kansas  City,"  boasting  a  population  of  eight  thousand, 
and  commanding  a  large  share  of  the  trade  of  Kansas  Ter- 
ritory and  of  the  plains.  Here  I  was  detained  several  days 
in  waiting.  I  find  the  following  record  of  midnight  vigils 
and  reflections  : 

"A  boat  is  expected  down  to-night.  I  am  'keeping 
watch.'  The  hour  of  midnight  has  almost  arrived.  Others 
around  me  are  at  rest.  The  moon-beams  are  playing  beauti- 
fully upon  the  noble  stream  just  before  me.  All  is  solemn 

silence  and  friendly  to  reflection The  result  of 

all  [my  recent  explorations]  is  a  deeper  conviction  that  the 
cause  of  missions  is  the  cause  of  God,  and  an  unwavering 
determination,  if  God  point  out  the  way,  to  be  spent  in 

this  blessed  work Since  coming  here  I  have 

seen  a  company  of  'Mackinaw  boats' — as  they  are  called — 
from  the  Upper  Missouri,  freighted  with  skins  and  furs,  the 
property  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  as  they  glided 
rapidly  down  the  stream.  The  world  around  us  is  busy. 
Shall  we  be  less  upon  the  alert  in  saving  souls  ?  Let  it  no 
longer  be  said  that  in  this  respect  'the  children  of  this 
world  are  wiser  in  their  generation  than  the  children  of 
light.'  '  Here  I  had  my  first  taste  of  buffalo  meat. 

At  that  time  this  point  was  almost  the  ne  plus  ultra  of 
navigation  on  the  Missouri,  except  to  Government  boats 
and  those  engaged  in  the  fur  trade.  The  Platte  Purchase 


SABBATH   SERVICE — GROUNDED   AGAIN.  101 

had  then  just  been  annexed  to  Missouri  and  opened  for  set- 
tlement, and  Weston,  about  fifty  miles  above  Kansas  Land- 
ing, was  beginning  to  be  heard  of  as  the  landing  point  for 
that  inviting  district  of  country. 

About  seven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  July, 
I  got  my  horse  and  buggy  on  board  the  steamer  "Edna," 
bound  for  St.  Louis.  Our  boat  was  heavily  freighted  and 
made  slow  progress.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  8th  we  ran 
aground  upon  a  sand-bar  about  ten  miles  above  Jefferson 
City.  This  was  then  a  serious  matter,  the  Missouri  River 
boats  having  not  then  learned  the  art  of  "  walking  over 
bars  upon  stilts"  —  the  use  of  spars  —  as  they  have 
since. 

The  day  following,  being  the  Sabbath,  I  preached  on 
board.  The  audience  were  solemn  and  attentive  while  I 
attempted  to  point  them  to  the  second  coming  of  Christ  as 
the  great  motive  to  Christian  diligence  and  watchfulness. 
Just  as  our  services  closed  the  boat  got  under  way,  ran 
about  twenty  miles  and  grounded  again,  a  little  below  the 
mouth  of  Osage  River.  Here  we  remained  several  days, 
and  all  efforts  seemed  to  avail  nothing.  Heavy  rains  set 
in ;  the  boat  became  damp ;  a  large  number  of  the  passen- 
gers, myself  among  them,  were  seized  with  an  epidemic 
influenza  then  prevailing  all  over  the  country ;  the  Captain, 
incompetent  and  discouraged,  concealed  himself  in  his 
state-room ;  the  passengers  took  to  drinking,  and  a  general 
row  ensued.  A  few  of  the  sober  passengers,  led  on  by  my- 
self, joined  the  crew  in  efforts  to  get  off,  worked  at  capstan 
in  the  rain,  did  all  we  could,  but  in  vain.  Our  condition 
grew  hourly  worse  by  the  washing  of  the  current  in  the 
sands  under  the  boat,  as  is  the  wont  of  this  capricious 
river,  thus  letting  her  down  further  and  further  into  the  bar. 
My  horse,  a  noble  animal,  suffered  greatly.  Deprived  of 
food,  by  its  having  been  put  ashore  through  mistake ;  tied 
back  near  the  fires  so  as  to  allow  room  for  the  hands  to 
work,  he  was  scorched  and  singed  most  piteously.  A  wag- 
gish young  lawyer,  in  his  cups,  remarked  in  my  hearing, 


102  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

"I  have  no  sympathy  with  any  animal  on  board  except 
that  preacher  and  his  horse." 

So  things  passed  till  the  morning  of  the  10th,  when  a 
few  men  visiting  the  boat  from  the  neighboring  shore,  I 
contracted  with  them  to  build  a  raft  on  the  ensuing  day, 
and  attempt  to  convey  my  animal  and  carriage  to  land ; 
choosing  rather  to  run  the  hazard  of  drowning  him  than 
to  murder  him  by  slow  tortures.  The  day  following,  how- 
ever, a  small  steamer  passing  agreed  to  light  us  off.  The 
first  trip  to  land  I  took  passage,  and  got  my  all  safe  to 
shore.  My  poor  animal,  on  reaching  terra  firma,  gave 
demonstrations  of  joy  of  which  I  had  not  conceived  his 
species  capable.  I  was  about  to  harness  up  and  risk  a  land 
journey  the  remainder  of  the  way.  Just  at  this  crisis  the 
Edna,  lighted  as  she  was,  got  under  way  and  "rounded  to." 
I  could  ill  bear  to  be  left  behind.  The  thought  of  home 
after  a  long  absence  rushed  upon  me.  An  offer  of  seventy- 
five  dollars  was  made  for  a  fine  horse  with  buggy  and  har- 
ness thrown  in.  A  bargain  was  struck.  Once  more  I  got 
on  board.  A  jolly  Kentuckian,  but  a  really  kind-hearted 
man,  volunteered  to  auction  off  my  camp  equipage  and 
extra  baggage  among  the  crew  and  deck  passengers,  and 
soon,  lightened  of  my  burden,  I  was  again  under  way  for 
St.  Louis,  where,  without  further  disaster  or  detention,  we 
arrived  on  the  12th,  about  seven  o'clock,  P.  M. 

It  had  been  my  purpose  to  go  from  St.  Louis  to  the  falls 
of  Ohio  by  water,  and  thus  obtain  some  rest  in  my  extreme 
fatigue  and  indisposition.  On  arriving,  however,  I  learned 
that  the  Eastern  stage  would  start  at  three  in  the  morning, 
and  take  me  through  in  three  days  to  my  family.  The 
motive  was  strong,  and  forgetting  my  incompetency  for  a 
hard  stage  ride  of  three  days  and  nights,  I  engaged  a  pas- 
sage, and  lay  down  to  rest  a  few  hours  upon  the  floor  of  a 
crowded  hotel,  no  better  accommodation  being  to  be  had ; 
but,  unwell  as  I  was,  little  rest  came. 

Long  before  the  dawn  of  the  next  day  we  were  over  the 
Mississippi,  wending  our  way  across  the  American  Bottom 


ILLINOIS  STAGING.  103 

en  route  for  Indianapolis  via  Terre  Haute.  The  day  passed 
as  well  as  could  be  expected  in  my  plight.  A  few  rough 
passengers  were  on  board  in  the  persons  of  Wabash  flat- 
boatmen  returning  from  New  Orleans.  But  having  one 
gentlemanly  passenger  and  a  few  ladies,  it  was  easy  for  us 
to  control  the  stage.  Toward  evening,  however,  these  left 
us,  and  their  places  were  supplied  by  a  recruit  of  ruffians  of 
the  same  stamp.  This  left  me  in  a  minority  of  one  and 
gave  them  full  sway ;  the  drivers,  as  usual,  being  on 
their  side.  They  were  furnished  with  arms,  music,  and 
liquor,  and  spent  the  night  in  carousal,  accompanied  with 
the  most  disgusting  profanity  and  obscenity.  I  appealed  to 
them  to  desist  out  of  compassion  to  my  sickness,  but  this 
seemed  only  to  add  to  the  fury,  till,  making  a  virtue  of 
necessity,  I  submitted  and  silently  bore  all  their  indignities. 
Never  have  I  passed  another  such  night.  I  doubted  much 
if  I  should  not  be  murdered  before  the  morning.  It  was 
not  a  little  humiliating  that,  after  having  traveled  thou- 
sands of  miles  by  land  and  by  water  among  civilized  and 
uncivilized,  here  was  a  company  of  savages,  claiming  citi- 
zenship in  my  own  State,  more  degraded  and  brutal  than 
any  I  had  encountered.  Weary  at  length  with  their  own 
revelry,  or  possibly  relenting  when  they  saw  me  almost 
sinking  with  sickness  and  exhaustion,  they  desisted  and  left 
me  for  a  time  in  quiet.  A  little  after  daylight  I  was  put 
out  at  a  stage  stand  almost  in  an  insensible  state.  Provi- 
dence directed.  The  host,  a  clever  Illinois  farmer,  proved 
to  be  a  brother  in  the  Church.  I  was  well  and  kindly 
cared  for.  A  physician  was  called,  and  I  was  not  a  little 
surprised  to  recognize  in  him  one  under  whose  ministry  I 
had  sat  in  boyhood ;  then  a  talented  and  promising  young 
itinerant,  and  often  a  guest  at  my  paternal  home ;  now 
fallen,  but  kind  and  attentive  in  his  professional  services. 
Whether  naturally  or  from  medicine  I  know  not,  I  fell 
into  a  profound  sleep,  which  continued  some  twenty-four 
hours  or  more.  This  over,  I  felt  relieved  and  invigorated, 
and  by  the  morning  of  the  16th  was  able  to  resume  my 


104:  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

journey.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  I  arrived  at  Indian- 
apolis, and  found  my  family  in  health  and  comfort,  after 
an  absence  of  near  four  months,  grateful  to  God  for  our 
mutual  preservation,  and  to  kind  friends  at  Indianapolis 
for  many  good  offices  to  mine  during  my  absence.  May 
Heaven  reward  them ! 

I  shall  purposely  pass  briefly  over  the  scenes  that  fol- 
lowed for  months,  only  referring  to  them  as  a  connecting 
link  in  my  frontier  work.  Preparations  were  to  be  made 
for  a  removal  and  entering  permanently  on  my  field  of 
labor.  Preparatory  to  this  supplies  for  our  institution  were 
to  be  purchased  and  shipped.  Previous  to  my  leaving  Fort 
Coffee,  an  arrangement  had  been  made  with  Major  Arm- 
strong, Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  and  disbursing 
agent  of  the  Government,  that  he  should  meet  me  at  Cin- 
cinnati at  an  appointed  time,  on  his  way  East,  and  furnish 
the  requisite  funds  then  due  to  our  institution  from  the 
Department. 

A  hasty  trip  to  the  lake  region,  my  late  field  of  labor, 
was  made ;  private  matters  were  adjusted ;  leave  taken  at 
Indianapolis ;  family  removed  to  the  Ohio  River ;  intervals 
being  taken  up  with  sundry  missionary  meetings.     At  the 
day  appointed  I  was  in  Cincinnati.     But  what  was  my  dis- 
appointment and  mortification  to  find  that  Maj.  Armstrong 
had  passed  on  to  Washington  without  having  made  any 
deposit  of  funds,  as  stipulated  !    The  reasons  for  this  I  never 
have  known.     Being  a  departure  from  his  ordinary  prompt 
habits,  I  can  only  infer  that  he  desired  to  consult  the  Depart- 
ment at  Washington  before  making  his  disbursements  to  us. 
Whatever  may  have  been  the  reason,  it  was  felt  by  me  as  a 
heavy  blow.     It  was  now  the  middle  of  August.     My  work 
in    the   West   demanded   my   presence.      My   family   were 
broken  up  from  their  home,  and  in  the  river  towns,  await- 
ing a  passage.     The  dreaded  season  of  low  water  and  Fall 
sickness  upon  the  Mississippi  and  Arkansas  was  approach- 
ing.    Personally  ready  and  anxious  to  go,  I  was  now  tied 
up  by  inevitable  circumstances.     To  go  without  the  needed 


REV.  J.  N.    MAFFITT.  105 

supplies  was  useless ;  and  how  long  the  painful  detention 
was  to  be  protracted  none  could  conjecture  !  Perhaps,  too, 
a  constitutional  temperament,  ill-fitted  to  bear  needless 
delays  and  detentions,  contributed  to  magnify  the  difficul- 
ties to  my  mind.  A  most  unenviable  state  of  suspense  en- 
sued. I  wrote  to  Washington,  and  used  all  possible  effort 
to  reconcile  myself  to  my  fate. 

During  the  continuance  of  this  period  of  suspense,  time 
was  filled  up  by  occasional  labors  and  brief  trips  on  the 
Ohio  River,  and  inland.  While  in  Cincinnati  I  met  with 
Rev.  J.  N.  Maffitt,  who  had  visited  the  city  with  the  purpose 
of  holding  a  series  of  meetings  in  Wesley  Chapel,  then 
under  the  pastoral  charge  of  Rev.  J.  L.  Grover.  This 
place  had,  in  former  years,  been  the  scene  of  one  of  Maf- 
fitt's  most  extraordinary  successes.  During  the  pastorate  of 
Rev.  E.  W.  Sehon,  and  with  his  zealous  co-operation,  he 
had  labored  there  for  a  season  ;  immense  crowds  had  hung 
upon  his  ministry;  an  intense  religious  interest  had  been 
waked  up,  and  a  large  addition  made  to  the  Church.  I  had 
known  Maffitt  in  the  days  of  his  glory;  had  co-operated 
with  him  in  my  own  charge,  and  elsewhere ;  had  heard  his 
overpowering  eloquence,  witnessed  his  sway  over  the  multi- 
tudes, and  seen  valuable  and  lasting  benefits  from  his 
labors ;  had  known  his  weaknesses,  and  trembled  for  him 
amid  the  caresses  and  flatteries  that  surrounded  him ;  had 
listened  to  his  confidential  tales  of  sorrow — admired,  loved, 
and  pitied  him.  Now  it  was  painfully  evident  that  his 
power  was  gone ;  he  was  shorn  of  his  strength.  I  attended 
his  meetings  from  time  to  time,  and  endeavored,  as  afore- 
time, to  aid  him  ;  but  all  was  in  vain.  He  could  neither 
command  a  full  house,  nor  profitably  entertain  and  influence 
the  small  number  in  attendance.  This  was  the  beginning 
of  his  failures.  Poor  Maffitt !  I  can  scarcely  yet  think  of 
him  without  a  tear.  I  trust  he  died  a  penitent  at  the  foot 
of  the  Cross ! 

During  my  stay,  also,  I  took  occasion  to  pay  a  brief  visit 
to  Bishop  Soule,  at  his  residence  at  Lebanon,  Ohio,  for  the 


106  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

purpose  of  consulting  him  in  reference  to  our  Indian  work, 
then  under  his  special  charge,  and,  especially,  of  urging  an 
immediate  appointment  to  the  Nun-na-wa-ya  Institution, 
and  a  vigorous  prosecution  of  that  work.  I  found  him  only 
awaiting  a  suitable  man  on  whom  he  could  "lay  his  hands." 
My  stay  was  passed  with  satisfaction  and  profit.  Hitherto, 
I  had  known  him  only  at  Conference ;  at  his  own  home  I 
found  him  affable,  cheerful,  and  communicative,  yet  grave 
and  dignified  ;  a  little  inclined — as  is  the  wont  of  most  old 
men — to  speak  of  self,  relate  personal  incidents,  and  anon, 
"  shoulder  his  crutch  and  show  how  battles  were  fought  and 
won ;"  but  upon  the  whole  a  fine  model  of  a  Christian 
Bishop.  He  had  just  returned  from  filling  up  the  work  left 
unprovided  for  by  the  decease  of  Bishop  Roberts,  and  was 
soon  to  enter  upon  his  own.  Little  did  he  then  dream  of 
the  position  he  was  soon  to  occupy.  With  his  heart  really 
and  fondly  set  upon  the  perpetuated  unity  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church ;  attempting  to  conciliate  one  section  by 
concession,  and  misjudging  his  power  over  the  other,  he 
went  too  far  to  recede.  Ere  he  was  aware,  he  found  him- 
self placed,  beyond  recovery,  in  a  position  never  contem- 
plated ;  one  at  which,  with  his  previous  opinions  and  feel- 
ings, he  would  have  revolted. 

Nearly  two  months  had  now  passed  in  suspense.  The 
annual  session  of  my  own  (Indiana)  Conference  was  near 
at  hand.  No  means  had  been  furnished  for  the  prosecution 
of  my  appointed  work.  The  purpose  was  almost  formed  to 
attend  the  session  at  Crawfordsville,  surrender  up  my  Indian 
charge,  decline  a  transfer,  and  ask  an  appointment  in  the 
home  work.  While  meditating  upon  this,  a  messenger 
came  to  me  at  Jefferson ville,  informing  me  that  Maj.  Arm- 
strong had  arrived  in  Louisville,  and  was  awaiting  me  at 
a  hotel.  I  saw  him  ;  received  at  his  hands  all  that  was 
needed,  and  was  again  prepared  for  action  ;  not,  however, 
without  uncomfortable  reflections  over  a  blank  of  two 
months  in  the  history  of  our  work,  forced  upon  me  by  the 
acts  of  others. 


TRANSFER.  107 

At  the  session  of  the  Indiana  Conference  referred  to, 
being  the  last  time  that  the  whole  body  of  preachers  met 
together,  I  was  transferred  by  Bishop  Andrew  to  the  Arkan- 
sas Conference ;  the  Indian  missions  west  of  that  State 
being  then  an  appendage  of  that  Conference.  Here  com- 
menced a  series  of  transfers,  always  unsought  by  me,  arising 
solely  from  the  desire  of  the  appointing  power  to  employ 
me  in  frontier  work,  and  from  the  perpetually  changing 
form  of  that  work.  It  has  had  its  successes,  its  joys ;  it 
has  had  its  privations,  its  toils,  its  sorrows  ;  but  this  day  I 
would  not,  if  I  could,  reverse  that  act ;  an  act  which  in  its 
results  has  changed  the  whole  course  of  my  life. 


108  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

INCIDENTS    OF    A    RIVER    PASSAGE. 

ANOTHER  scene  of  hurried  preparation  ensued.  Some  ten 
days  were  spent  in  Cincinnati  and  Louisville  laying  in 
stores  for  our  institution,  such  as  books,  clothing,  bedding, 
furniture,  and  provisions,  with  other  necessaries  for  farm- 
ing, building,  etc.  Passage  and  freight  were  engaged  upon 
the  Governor  Morehead,  a  medium-sized  boat,  newly  re- 
paired and  fitted  up  for  the  Arkansas  trade.  I  got  my  Cin- 
cinnati freight  on  board,  and  on  the  15th  of  October  went 
to  the  Falls ;  spent  some  days  in  completing  outfit  and 
shipping  goods  at  Louisville.  On  the  17th  my  family, 
consisting  of  my  wife  and  five  children,  embarked  at  Jeffer- 
sonville.  The  falls  were  passed,  and  our  steamer,  with 
accustomed  glee,  was  soon  speeding  her  way  down  the  noble 
Ohio.  On  board  were  thoughtful  ones.  Home,  friends, 
associates,  Church  privileges  were  left  behind.  Before  was 
life  beyond  the  bounds  of  civilization,  care,  toil,  privation, 
we  knew  not  what,  perhaps  death.  Still  no  murmur  was 
heard,  the  cost  had  been  counted. 

The  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers  were  at  a  fine  stage,  and 
our  steamer  made  good  progress.  The  comfort  of  the  pas- 
sage to  us,  however,  was  greatly  marred  by  the  illness  of 
Mrs.  Goode,  which  continued  nearly  all  the  way.  Divine 
grace  sustained  her  under  the  affliction,  and  personal  forti- 
tude triumphed  over  constitutional  debility  and  suffering, 
producing  the  utmost  cheerfulness  and  resignation.  Several 
pious  persons  were  on  board,  and  among  them  a  number  of 
ladies,  by  whose  request  the  ladies'  cabin  was  opened  for 
daily  religious  devotions. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  till  it  was  ascertained  that  we 


A   HUMAN   TORMENTOR — PERIL   BY   WATER.      109 

were  to  be  annoyed  beyond  measure  in  the  person  of  the 

commander   of  the    boat,    Captain   .      Never,    before 

or  since,  has  it  been  my  lot  to  fall  under  the  control 
of  just  such  a  being.  Surly,  unaccommodating,  tyran- 
nical, he  seemed  disposed  to  plan  rather  for  the  discom- 
fort than  for  the  accommodation  of  his  passengers.  Even 
the  table  allowance  was  shortened  as  we  progressed,  till 
it  became  difficult  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  appetite,  and 
especially  to  obtain  food  for  children.  Often  was  I  re- 
minded of  the  sea  captain  who  so  tormented  Dr.  Coke  in 
one  of  his  voyages  to  the  West  Indies.  Still  our  progress 
was  good,  and  we  were  consoled  by  the  prospect  of  a  speedy 
passage  and  early  relief. 

Entering  the  Arkansas  River  at  Napoleon,  we  found  it  at 
a  very  low  stage,  so  that  we  proceeded  with  difficulty 
through  forests  of  snags  and  over  interminable  sand-bars. 
Still  no  serious  hinderance  occurred  till  we  had  passed  up 
over  one  hundred  miles.  About  nine  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  23d,  as  we  were  passing  Barrique's  Bar,  in  a 
dangerous  part  of  the  river  some  twenty-five  miles  below 
Pine  Bluffs,  our  boat  struck  a  snag,  opening  a  breach  in 
her  bottom.  No  violent  shock  being  felt,  and  such  jars 
being  common,  it  was  not  apprehended  that  any  injury  had 
been  sustained,  and  no  examination  was  made  till  suddenly 
it  was  discovered  that  the  hold  was  half  filled  with  water 
and  the  boat  going  down  ;  how  deep  no  one  knew.  The 
indescribable  sensation  followed  peculiar  to  such  an  an- 
nouncement. Still  there  was  no  outcry,  all  was  quiet. 
My  first  notice  was  from  an  elderly  Episcopalian  gentleman, 
who  approached  me  and  gently  said,  "I  am  told  that  the 
boat  is  sinking."  It  was  immediately  proposed  that  we  go 
to  the  ladies'  cabin,  communicate  the  fact,  and  bring  out 
the  ladies  and  children  to  the  forward  deck,  where  they 
might  have  a  full  view  of  all.  This  was  done.  It  was  a 
fearful  moment.  None  knew  at  what  instant  we  should 
sink  to  a  watery  grave.  Still  all  were  firm  and  quiet.  Not 
a  woman  or  child  of  our  company  uttered  an  exclamation, 


110  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

though  the  females  of  the  deck  passengers  were  fleeing  aloft 
with  piteous  confusion  and  crying.  The  pilot  was  firm 
and  self-possessed,  Providence  helped  him,  the  course  was 
changed,  steam  crowded,  and  in  a  little  time  we  were 
grounded  upon  a  bar  whose  shoals  rendered  us  secure 
from  danger,  having,  in  the  good  providence  of  God, 
escaped  this  extreme  "peril  by  water,"  with  just  experience 
enough  to  teach  us  how  to  appreciate  the  sensation  preced- 
ing the  last  struggle  of  so  many  voyagers  upon  our  Western 
waters. 

The  panic  over  we  were  left  to  reflect  upon  our  new  posi- 
tion. The  hold  was  found  to  be  pretty  well  filled,  and  a 
large  proportion  of  our  freight  submerged.  Quite  a  large 
breach  was  found  to  have  been  made.  A  partial  stoppage 
was  effected,  and,  after  a  wearisome  effort,  by  dint  of  pump- 
ing and  bailing,  the  hold  was  emptied  of  water,  the  passen- 
gers joining  heartily  in  the  labor.  The  mechanics  set  to 
and  effected  a  temporary  repair,  and  it  was  determined  to 
attempt  to  run  to  Little  Rock,  some  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  further,  and  there  lay  up,  refit,  and  dry  our  goods. 

Getting  again  under  way  we  ran  about  twenty  miles, 
when  we  were  brought  to  a  sudden  pause  by  a  bar,  upon 
which  the  water  was  insufficient  to  bear  us  over.  Here  was 
no  compromise,  no  alternative  but  to  ''tie  up"  and  "wait 
for  a  rise;"  to  remain  here  upon  the  Lower  Arkansas,  at 
this  sickly  season,  among  musketoes  and  gallinippers,  we 
knew  not  how  long.  The  thought  was  dreary  enough,  but 
we  bowed  to  the  necessity.  To  add  to  our  discomfiture 
rain  set  in,  depriving  us  of  an  opportunity  of  drying  our 
goods,  and  yet  affording  no  prospect  of  relief,  unless  heavy 
above. 

But  amid  all  our  discouragements  there  was  one  relieving 
circumstance.  Our  Captain  was  brought  to  terms,  at  least 
with  myself.  He  could  collect  no  freight  till  our  destina- 
tion was  reached,  and  his  funds  had  run  out,  so  that  he  was 
unable  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  boat.  This  rendered  him 
dependent  and  submissive,  an  advantage  of  which  I  felt 


PRACTICAL   WORKINGS   OF   SLAVE   SYSTEM.       Ill 

perfectly  justified  in  availing  myself,  at  least  so  far  as  to 
M'lMire  reasonable  treatment  to  myself  and  mine.  He  be- 
came civil  and  accommodating,  and  remained  so  till  we 
parted. 

The  point  at  which  we  were  lying  was  the  old  Catholic 
settlement  of  St.  Mary's,  noticed  in  a  former  chapter,  about 
five  miles  below  Pine  Bluffs.  In  the  vicinity  are  some  cot- 
ton plantations,  owned  mostly  by  French  Catholics  and 
their  descendants.  At  one  of  these,  under  the  care  of  an 
overseer,  I  applied  for  quarters  where  we  might  find  some 
relief  from  the  confinement  of  the  boat,  and  room  to  dry 
our  goods,  Mrs.  Goode  still  being  quite  sick.  The  overseer 
kind  and  humane — at  least  to  white  men — and  con- 
sented to  take  us  in.  On  the  25th  we  removed  my  family 
and  goods.  The  latter  we  found  to  be  in  a  sad  plight. 
Kvi-ry  thing  capable  of  injury  by  water  had  suffered.  Our 
supply  of  flour  was  damaged  so  that  we  were  obliged  to 
sell  it  at  once.  My  library  was  a  perfect  wreck.  Some 
days  were  spent  in  the  drying  process,  and  additional  loss 
of  goods  was  sustained  by  fire  and  by  theft. 

During  our  stay  we  had  some  opportunity  of  enlarging 
our  observations  of  the  practical  workings  of  slavery. 
With  its  milder  forms,  as  it  exists  in  the  Border  States,  we 
were  already  familiar ;  but  here  it  was  seen  in  a  type  to  us 
new.  It  was  tho  season  of  gathering  in  the  cotton  crop. 
Early  in  the  morning  the  gang  of  slaves,  men,  women,  and 
children,  such  as  were  able  for  the  task,  were  marched  off  to 
the  snow-white  fields,  each  with  a  sack,  into  which  the  pods 
of  ripe  cotton  were  cast  as  they  were  plucked  from  the  stem 
by  the  hand,  leaving  the  unripe  portion  for  another,  and 
another,  and  still  another  plucking.  Late  in  the  evening 
they  returned  to  their  cabins  and  rested,  to  repeat  the  same 
toilsome  round  again  and  again  during  the  season.  The 
overseer,  our  host,  I  have  before  spoken  of  as  apparently  a 
humane  man.  Education  and  habit,  however,  had  taught 
him  lessons  of  negro  inferiority  and  endurance.  To  pre- 
serve his  place  he  must  act  in  conformity  with  the  code, 


112  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

and  exact  the  labor  to  the  uttermost.  I  never  personally 
witnessed  a  castigation,  but  in  my  absence,  the  sound  of  the 
lash  and  the  shrieks  of  the  slave,  heard  by  my  sick  wife, 
affected  her  greatly.  Born  and  reared,  as  she  had  been, 
among  slaves,  and  in  early  life  always  personally  sur- 
rounded by  them,  yet  she  had  never  seen  it  after  this 
fashion  ;  and  in  her  then  debilitated  state  it  was  too  much 
for  her  to  bear. 

An  incident  occurred  during  our  stay  at  this  place  which 
had  well-nigh  made  me  a  slave-owner.  The  narration  may 
subject  me  to  the  imputation  of  want  of  judgment  or  of 
consistency ;  but  if  it  serve  to  pay  an  incidental  tribute  to 
the  superior  discretion  and  foresight  of  one  then  at  my 
side,  but  now  among  the  spirits  before  the  Throne,  I  am 
content.  ,. 

On  one  fine  Sabbath  morning  of  our  stay  on  the  planta- 
tion, desirous  of  being  profitably  employed,  I  proposed  to 
ride  up  to  the  village  of  Pine  Bluffs,  try  to  collect  a  con- 
gregation, and  spend  the  day  in  religious  service.  Our 
host  very  readily  arranged  that  I  should  be  accompanied 
by  a  likely  young  negro  man,  who  should  show  me  the 
way  and  render  all  needful  attentions,  according  to  the 
custom  of  the  country.  On  our  way  up  I  entered  into 
conversation  with  the  "boy,"  and  found  him  not  only 
sprightly  and  intelligent,  but  seemingly  pious.  Arriving 
at  the  place,  after  introducing  me  to  a  religious  family,  he 
undertook  the  task  of  raising  me  a  congregation,  which 
his  acquaintance  with  the  people  and  their  confidence  in 
him  enabled  him  easily  to  accomplish.  The  services  over, 
and  our  brief  hospitalities  enjoyed,  we  returned.  On  our 
way  down  the  following  train  of  unspoken  reflections  was 
waked  up  in  my  mind.  "Is  there  not  now  presented  an 
opportunity  of  performing  an  act  of  humanity  ?  This 
young  man  is  industrious,  sprightly,  pious.  He  is  a  slave, 
with  no  hope  of  relief  if  he  remain  here.  May  not  I  pur- 
chase him,  pay  for  him,  become  his  owner,  take  him  with 
me  to  the  Indian  country,  employ  him  at  our  mission,  have 


EFFECTS  OF  TAMPERING  WITH  SLAVERY.   113 

him  travel  with  me  when  safety  or  comfort  may  require  it, 
better  his  immediate  condition,  make  him  useful  to  myself 
and  the  institution  till  his  labor  shall  have  repaid  the  price 
advanced  for  him,  and  then  manumit  him  and  leave  him  a 
free  man  the  rest  of  his  days?"  The  reasoning  seemed 
plausible,  and  commended  itself  to  me  with  great  force. 
The  first  opportunity  I  communicated  the  suggestion  to  her 
whose  private  counsel  I  never  deemed  it  unmanly  to  ask, 
and  never  regretted  following.  With  characteristic  mod- 
esty and  gentleness  she  replied:  "I  think  we  had  better  let 
it  alone." 

On  further  reflection  I  acquiesced  in  the  opinion,  and 
subsequent  observation  has  confirmed  its  correctness.  The 
humanity  and  purity  of  the  motive  I  can  not  question,  nor, 
indeed,  the  lawfulness  and  strict  Christian  morality  of  the 
act  contemplated.  But  its  positive  inexpediency  has,  to 
my  mind,  been  settled  by  unquestionable  facts.  Many,  no 
doubt,  have  begun  in  this  way,  and  have  ended  practical 
and  theoretical  slaveholders.  I  could  myself  name  men, 
Christian  men,  Christian  ministers,  who,  a  score  of  years 
ago,  apologized  for  holding  a  few  slaves,  under  peculiar  cir- 
cumstances, that  are  now  enrolled  among  the  stan chest  de- 
fenders of  the  system.  I  might  have  proven  as  weak  as 
they,  and,  ere  I  was  aware,  have  been  inextricably  entan- 
gled in  the  net  so  plausibly  laid  and  interwoven  with  all 
the  social  frame-work  of  the  South.  Even  had  not  this 
been  the  case,  had  the  plan  been  persisted  in  and  the 
scheme  consummated  in  the  ultimate  freedom  of  a  single 
slave,  still  the  influence  of  example  would,  meantime,  have 
been  lent  to  the  wrong — example  unexplained  and  often 
willfully  misrepresented.  "That  negro  belongs  to  the  mis- 
sion ;"  "That  is  Parson  K.'s  negro;"  are  remarks  that 
have  more  than  once  been  made  to  serve  the  cause  of  op- 
pression, however  merciful  the  ultimate  design  of  the  rela- 
tion. I  speak  from  facts  personally  known  to  myself. 
"Touch  not,  taste  not,"  is  the  only  safety. 

An  incident  of  later  years  may  serve  to  illustrate  the 
10 


114  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

stealthy  change  which  circumstances  sometimes  gradually 
effect  upon  the  minds  of  those  in  actual,  every-day  contact 
with  the  peculiar  institution.  It  may,  at  the  same  time, 
aid  to  explain  the  much-wondered-at  fact  that  so  many 
once  opposed  to  slavery  become,  upon  a  change  of  resi- 
dence, its  most  strenuous  advocates  in  word  and  deed. 

Among  the  exciting  scenes  that  were  acted  out  upon  the 
Missouri  River  steamers,  during  the  recent  Kansas  struggle, 
it  was  my  lot  repeatedly  to  pass  up  and  down  and  to  wit- 
ness much  imbittered  feeling  and  some  bloodshed.  Form- 
ing an  agreeable  acquaintance,  upon  a  certain  downward 

trip,  with  a  young  Presbyterian  clergyman  of  ,  I  was 

introduced  by  him  to  a  venerable  old  Scotchman,  a  resident 

of  the  State  of ,  a  member,  and  perhaps  an  elder,  of 

the  same  Church.  I  learned  him  to  be  a  man  of  wealth,  a 
slaveholder,  then  just  starting  on  a  visit  to  his  native  land. 
I  found  him  intelligent,  peculiarly  bland  and  gentle  in  his 
manners,  and,  withal,  quite  free  to  converse  mildly  and 
calmly  on  the  then  interdicted  subject.  In  the  course  of 
conversation  he  stated  to  me,  with  much  apparent  frank- 
ness, the  change  that  had  been  effected  in  his  own  feelings 
and  sentiments  upon  the  subject  of  slavery.  "When," 
said  he,  "I  first  came  where  I  saw  Africans  held  in  bond- 
age I  was  greatly  affected.  All  my  sympathies  were  roused. 
I  felt  as  though  I  could  weep  over  them.  But  by  degrees  I 
became  more  familiar  with  the  system.  Its  horrors  were 
taken  away.  I  saw  in  it  something  so  pa-tri-arch-al,  so 
pa-ter-nal,  [emphasizing  every  syllable,]  that  my  whole 
feelings  and  sentiments  underwent  a  change."  Somehow 
or  other,  it  afterward  came  to  me  that  the  tender-hearted 
old  gentleman  had  married  a  lady  of  large  estate.  What 
influence  her  personal  charms  and  legal  rights  may  have  had 
in  producing  his  mental  revolutions  may  be  matter  of  con- 
jecture. So  it  is,  closely  interwoven  in  all  the  texture  of 
society  where  it  exists,  fixing  the  social  status  of  every  man 
and  woman.  Hence  much  of  its  power. 

We  return  from  this  digression  to   our  quondam  place 


TURNED   OUT  OF   DOORS.  115 

upon  the  low  banks  of  the  Arkansas,  with  its  social  and 
ecclesiastical  institutions,  its  cane-brakes,  wolves,  muske- 
toes,  and  miasmas,  our  damaged  goods,  damaged  boat,  low 
water,  and  little  prospect  of  relief.  But  soon  another  cause 
of  disquietude  arose.  One  of  the  two  joint  proprietors  of 
the  plantation  resided  in  Pine  Bluffs,  and  was  wont  to  pay 
frequent  visits  to  the  quarters,  and  look  to  his  interests 
there.  These  had  been  suspended  since  myself  and  family 
had  been  taken  in.  Our  host  grew  uneasy  lest  his  landlord 
might  be  offended.  His  place  was,  perhaps,  jeoparded  by 
his  receiving  and  entertaining  us.  We  knew  no  cause  for 
dissatisfaction,  as  I  made  full  pecuniary  compensation,  un- 
less his  Catholic  ire  had  been  roused  by  having  a  heretic 
family  on  his  premises,  and  especially  my  having  had  the 
temerity  to  preach  on  the  plantation  to  all  the  whites  and 
blacks  I  could  assemble.  So  it  was,  my  host  thought  best 
to  see  and  know  how  the  matter  stood.  Desirous  of  having 
some  hand  in  fixing  my  own  fate,  or,  at  least,  of  knowing 
it  as  early  as  possible,  I  accompanied  him.  An  interview 
was  had  with  him,  first  by  the  overseer,  then  by  myself. 
All  was  understood  ;  the  conjectures  had  been  well-founded  ; 
he  was  displeased ;  remonstrances  were  in  vain  ;  a  day  was 
fixed,  and  that  an  early  one,  by  which  we  were  desired  to 
leave. 

Here  was  a  new  trial.  Turned  out  of  doors  with  wife 
and  little  ones,  the  former  still  sick,  in  this  unhealthy,  in- 
hospitable region,  with  no  earthly  prospect  of  shelter  or 
relief,  the  influences  all  around  being  of  the  same  character, 
faith  and  patience  were,  for  the  time,  put  to  a  severe  test ; 
and  I  need  hardly  say  how  great  the  temptation  is  at  such 
moments  to  self-reproach — charging  one's  self  with  rash- 
ness, imprudence,  and  even  cruelty  to  loved  ones,  in  thus 
exposing  them.  To  look  back:  "I  have  undertaken  too 
much  ;"  "  What  I  forfeit  for  myself  is  a  trifle  ;  but  these — 
what  have  they  done?"  How  many  such  reflections  does 
memory  call  up  !  But  God  is  good,  and  takes  tender  care 
of  all  who  trust  in  him.  This  was  soon  strangely  manifest. 


116  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

Our  sentence  of  expulsion  received,  the  next  step  was  to 
return  and  communicate  it.  Truly  I  felt  that  I  "  had  no 
more  place  in  these  parts  ;"  but,  then,  whither  should  I  go  ? 
Pensively  I  turned  my  steps,  leading  my  horse  down  to  the 
bank  of  the  river,  which  was  to  be  crossed  in  our  return. 
There  I  stood,  musing  upon  what  seemed  to  have  befallen 
us,  as  the  ferry-flat  approached  with  some  passengers  from 
the  other  shore.  The  boat  came  to.  A  plain,  farmer-look- 
ing man,  with  frank  expression  of  countenance,  stepped  on 
shore  and  addressed  us.  "I  am  told/'  said  he,  "that  there 
is  a  Methodist  preacher  and  family  on  that  steamboat,  and 
I  have  come  after  them."  God  bless  him !  The  tears  fill 
my  eyes  after  near  a  score  of  years  as  I  recur  to  the  scene. 
I  was  pointed  out  to  him.  A  warm,  cordial  grasp  of  the 
hand,  with  benevolence  outspoken  from  his  countenance, 
told  me  at  once  that  all  was  right.  "Come,"  said  he,  "I 
live  upon  the  river,  about  eight  miles  distant.  I  have 
brought  a  skiff  to  take  you  and  family  to  my  house.  They 
can  remain  there  till  the  river  rises.  You  can  go  on  by 
land.  I  will  see  your  family  and  goods  on  the  boat,  and, 
if  need  be,  will  accompany  them  up."  I  need  scarcely  add 
that  such  an  offer  was  gratefully  accepted,  and  that  night- 
fall found  me  and  mine  under  a  friendly  roof,  receiving  the 
timely  attentions  of  a  kind  Christian  family. 

'  Tell  me  not  that  God  has  no  special  providence  over  his 
children.  Too  often  have  I  had  evidence  of  immediate 
Divine  interposition  to  allow  a  doubt.  But  for  this,  life 
itself  had  not,  thus  far,  been  prolonged. 


OUR   NEW   HOST.  117 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

ARKANSAS     T  R  A  VELI  NG  — INCIDE  N  T  S. 

GREAT  was  the  relief  providentially  brought,  and  greatly 
did  we  appreciate  it.  True,  we  were  still  prisoners,  detained 
by  uncontrollable  circumstances ;  but  then  we  were  at  ease, 
from  the  belief  that,  however  long  our  detention  might  con- 
tinue, we  had  a  place  of  security  and  comfort,  where  we 
might  wait  till  Providence  should  further  open  our  way. 

Our  new  host,  whose  name  I  shall  not  mention,  was  a 
cotton-planter,  in  medium  circumstances,  with  a  moderate 
force  of  slaves  around  him.  He  was  a  prominent  and  in- 
fluential member  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church ; 
prominent,  not  from  his  own  personal  forwardness,  but 
from  duties  forced  upon  him  by  the  confidence  of  his  breth- 
ren. Personally,  he  was  modest  and  retiring.  Withal, 
there  was  something  mysterious  in  his  deportment  and 
remarks  at  times ;  a  melancholy  remembrance  of  the  past, 
accompanied  with  seemingly-deep  humiliation  ;  something 
in  his  history  which,  it  seemed,  he  could  not  forget,  and 
which,  even  in  the  midst  of  present  religious  confidence, 
stung  him  with  remorse.  Once,  in  speaking  of  his  acts  of 
personal  kindness  and  benevolence,  he  said  to  me,  "I  have 
been  a  very  bad  man  ;  I  want  now  to  do  all  the  good  I  can." 
But  he  went  no  further.  Not  long  after  I  learned  the  ex- 
planation. He  had  been  a  murderer.  In  early  life,  in  a 
fit  of  intoxication,  he  had  taken  the  life  of  a  fellow-being. 
Stung  by  remorse,  and  dreading  the  law,  he  had  fled  to  the 
lonely  West,  and  for  years  had  roamed  among  savages  in 
the  region  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  After  a  long  time  he 
returned,  became  penitent  and  pious.  Now  he  was  the 
head  of  a  considerable  family,  honored  and  respected ;  the 


118  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

scenes  of  his  early  years  forgotten,  or  never  mentioned  to 
his  injury.  Still  he  seemed  to  feel  that  the  stain  of  blood 
was  upon  him.  So  God  has  wisely  ordered  that  it  should 
be  with  him  who  takes  away  human  life.  The  relation 
caused  a  chill  of  horror  to  run  over  me.  Myself  and  family 
were  the  guests  of  a  murderer ;  my  family  were  to  be  left  in 
his  care.  Still  my  confidence  in  his  integrity  and  kindness 
remained  unshaken,  and  was  sustained  to  the  last.  Of  his 
after  history  I  know  nothing.  I  trust  he  is  in  heaven,  or 
still  on  his  way. 

A  week  had  been  spent  at  the  house  of  our  kind  but 
cringing  overseer.  It  was  now  the  2d  of  November.  On 
the  day  following  we  removed  our  goods  from  the  quarters 
to  the  boat  in  as  good  a  condition  as  possible,  to  await  a 
rise,  and  gave  to  our  Catholic  landlord  a  wide  berth. 

The  Sabbath  was  approaching.  We  had  the  satisfaction 
to  learn  that  our  stopping-place  was  within  the  bounds  of 
the  circuit  traveled  by  my  quondam  friend,  Rev.  D.  Craw- 
ford, spoken  of  in  a  former  chapter ;  and  further,  that  he, 
with  several  other  preachers,  was  expected  on  the  ensuing 
Saturday  and  Sabbath  to  hold  a  "two  days'  meeting,"  on 
their  way  to  the  Annual  Conference.  The  day  came ;  and 
with  it  the  preachers  and  the  people.  Our  domicile  was  the 
chapel ;  all  went  off  in  primitive  Western  style.  We 
labored,  prayed,  and  rejoiced  together.  Among  the  preach- 
ers present  was  Rev.  Levin  B.  Dennis,  since  my  valued 
companion  in  labor  in  another  field ;  now  grown  gray  in 
the  service — then  in  the  first  years  of  his  ministry.  Another 
was  the  eccentric  Edwards,  who  subsequently  became  a 
chaplain  in  the  Mexican  War,  and,  I  think,  fell  there. 

The  services  of  the  Sabbath  over,  I  began  to  think  of 
scenes  in  advance.  The  session  of  the  Arkansas  Confer- 
ence, at  Clarksville,  was  near  at  hand.  It  was  almost  in- 
dispensable that  I  should  be  there.  There  was  no  indication 
of  a  rise  in  the  river.  I  accordingly  determined  to  procure 
a  horse,  and  join  the  brethren  on  their  way,  leaving  my 
family  under  the  care  of  our  kind  host,  and  in  the  hands  of 


CYPRESS    SWAMPS — LITTLE    ROCK.  119 

Providence,  to  follow  when  they  could.  A  horse  was  kindly 
furnished  me  for  the  trip,  as  far  as  Little  Rock,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  7th  1  set  out,  with  two  of  the  brethren,  on 
our  way  to  the  seat  of  our  Conference. 

The  journey  was  a  long  one  on  horseback.  Our  route 
lay  up  the  Arkansas,  through  a  sparsely-inhabited  district 
of  country,  generally  well  timbered.  One  singular  feature 
is  found  at  different  points  in  the  lowlands,  the  cypress 
swamps,  so  different  from  all  other  forest  scenery  as  to  merit 
particular  notice.  These  swamps,  or  low  grounds,  are  cov- 
ered with  a  heavy  growth  of  cypress-trees,  standing  thick, 
and  casting  their  somber  shades  over  the  face  of  nature. 
Around  each  cypress-tree  is  a  "body-guard"  of  natural 
stubs,  springing  np  from  the  roots  of  the  trees,  conical  in 
form,  and  hollow,  but  exceedingly  firm,  varying  from  a  few 
inches  to  four  or  five  feet  in  hight,  with  proportionate  di- 
ameter, from  a  foot  down.  These  are  called  "cypress- 
knees  ;"  the  number  is  immense,  and  so  thickly  set  as  to 
render  the  forest  almost  impervious.  Cane-brakes  line  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  furnish  Winter  range  for  cattle. 

Instinctively,  or  otherwise,  we  brought  up  at  nightfall  at 
the  cabin  of  a  good  Methodist  family,  and  met  a  hearty 
welcome.  It  was  seldom  their  privilege  to  hear  preaching ; 
and,  bearing  in  mind  the  example  of  our  early  ministry  in 
expounding  the  Word  of  God  in  families,  I  proposed  a 
service  of  this  kind,  which  was  readily  agreed  to.  The 
family  came  together ;  a  Psalm  was  read  and  expounded — 
and  we  wound  up  with  a  shout  in  the  camp.  After  a  com- 
fortable night's  rest,  we  were  on  our  way  betimes  the  next 
morning,  and  another  day's  travel  brought  us  to  Little 
Rock.  Lodging  not  far  from  the  landing,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  the  sound  of  a  boat  in  the  night.  Judge 
my  surprise  and  thankfulness  to  find,  in  the  morning,  the 
Gov.  Morehead  with  my  family  on  board.  A  sudden  swell 
had  come,  sufficient  to  float  them  up  thus  far,  and  my  land 
travel  had  gained  me  nothing. 

The  rise  in  the  river  being  insufficient  to  take  the  boat, 


120  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

further  up,  the  Captain  determined  to  store  his  freight,  and 
return.  Wishing  to  control  my  own  freight,  I  took  it  off 
of  his  hands,  paid  him  proportionally,  and  stored  it  myself. 
The  remnant  of  my  library  hooks  left  undestroyed  were 
kindly  taken  in  charge  by  a  gentlemanly  clerk  in  one  of  the 
public  offices,  removed  to  a  room  in  the  State-House,  and 
spread  out  there  to  dry,  where  they  remained  for  months. 
My  family  was  taken  to  as  comfortable  lodgings  as  could 
be  obtained,  and  time  was  again  taken  for  consideration. 

A  series  of  meetings  was  in  progress  at  Little  Eock. 
Bishop  Andrew  and  Rev.  J.  F.  Wright,  then  senior  Book 
Agent  at  Cincinnati,  arrived  soon  after  me,  on  their  way  to 
the  Conference;  and  the  time  for  several  days  was  agreea- 
bly spent  in  their  pleasant  society,  and  in  the  alternate 
labors  of  the  pulpit.  The  Bishop  I  found  to  be  an  agreea- 
ble fireside  companion  ;  dignified,  plain,  unostentatious ;  a 
fine  specimen  of  the  Southern  gentleman  of  the  old  school  ; 
and  all  adorned  with  cheerful,  consistent  piety.  He  took  a 
deep  interest  in  the  circumstances  of  my  family,  and  subse- 
quently wrote  me,  from  Mobile,  expressing  his  sympathies 
and  good  wishes.  At  this  time  and  place  I  learned  from 
good  authority  that  he  then  entertained  serious  thoughts  of 
resigning  the  Episcopal  office.  This  was  the  Autumn  of 
1843.  He  was  then  unmarried,  having  lost  his  companion 
some  considerable  time  previously. 

Meanwhile  we  were  not  unemployed.  A  large  amount 
of  material  was  on  hand  for  clothing  our  pupils,  which 
would  be  needed  immediately  upon  the  opening  of  our 
school,  as  we  expected  to  receive  them  in  a  destitute 
condition.  The  ladies  of  the  place  took  the  matter  in 
hand.  An  organization  was  formed,  and  an  agreeable 
company  were  found  every  day  plying  the  scissors  and 
needle,  till  a  large  amount  of  clothing  was  prepared  for  use. 
Thus  we  were  enabled  to  levy  a  tax  upon  our  misfortune. 
Many  kind  attentions  were  bestowed  upon  my  family  by 
gentlemen  and  ladies  of  the  place,  during  my  own  stay, 
and  afterward,  which  will  never  be  forgotten. 


ARKANSAS   TRAVELING.  121 

The  approach  of  the  Conference  urged  me  on.  A  letter 
also  reached  me,  informing  me  of  the  dangerous  illness  of 
Rev.  H.  C.  Benson,  my  colleague  and  assistant,  then  at 
Fort  Coffee  and  in  charge  of  all  our  interests  there.  I  ac- 
cordingly determined  to  leave  my  family  again  and  proceed 
by  land  to  Clarksville.  Arrangements  were  made  for  their 
board.  Rev.  H.  Kerns,  the  pastor  of  the  charge,  kindly 
agreed  to  see  them  on  board  a  boat  when  an  opportunity 
should  offer,  and,  if  necessary,  to  accompany  them  in  per- 
son. Another  was  intrusted  with  the  care  of  our  freight 
and  its  reshipment.  A  horse  was  purchased,  and  all  need- 
ful arrangements  made.  On  the  morning  of  the  13th,  com- 
mitting my  family  again  to  the  providence  of  God  and  the 
oare  of  strangers,  I  took  leave  and  pursued  my  way  on- 
ward. 

The  Bishop  and  brother  Wright  took  a  different  course. 
They  had  come  up  White  River  to  Rock  Roe,  a  route  always 
practicable,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Little  Rock.  Weary  of 
staging,  they  determined  to  risk  a  passage  upon  the  "Ex- 
port," a  boat  which  was  about  to  make  an  effort  to  go  up ; 
while  I,  equally  disgusted  with  experiments  upon  the  river 
at  its  low  stage,  was  betaking  myself  to  land.  The  even- 
ing before  my  departure  they,  with  much  hesitancy,  got  on 
board.  My  parting  advice  was  to  "take  light  baggage," 
which  they  did,  much  to  their  relief,  as  it  turned  out;  the 
Bishop's  farewell  words  to  me  being,  "  Tell  brother  Parker 
to  open  the  Conference  if  I  am  not  there,"  brother  Parker 
being  a  presiding  elder  and  leading  member  of  the  Con- 
ference. 

Our  horseback  trip  was  pleasant,  and  the  third  day  we 
brought  up  at  Clarksville,  a  small  inland  village  in  Western 
Arkansas.  To  my  great  gratification  I  found  brother  Ben- 
son so  far  recovered  as  to  have  reached  the  place.  But  the 
forebodings  of  the  Bishop  were  realized ;  he  was  not  there. 
The  chair,  according  to  appointment,  was  taken  by  Rev.  J. 
C.  Parker,  and  the  Conference  business  progressed  agree- 
ably. Meanwhile  the  Export,  after  much  puffing  and 


122  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

straining,  had  failed  in  her  upward  passage.  The  good 
Bishop  and  his  amiable  co-traveler  had  betaken  themselves 
again  to  the  land ;  and  one  bearing  the  satchel-in-common, 
and  the  other  the  partnership  buffalo-skin,  were  trudging 
their  way  on  foot  through  the  cane-brakes,  or  getting  such 
rude  conveyances  as  they  could  of  the  settlers  from  point  to 
point.  The  Bishop  was  then  writing  a  series  of  letters  for 
publication  in  one  of  the  Southern  journals.  The  descrip- 
tion of  this  part  of  his  tour  has  a  spicy  interest  which 
memory  has  in  part  preserved.  He  soliloquizes  upon  such 
a  plight  for  "a  Bishop"  to  be  in  ;  gives  a  gentle  retort  to 
one  who  was  subsequently  his  colleague  in  the  Episcopacy, 
and  who  had  intimated  a  letting  down  of  the  office  in  latter 
days;  thinks  that  present  surroundings  may  prove  "an 
antidote  to  my  friend,  Dr.  C.'s  newly-discovered  process 
of  episcopal  deterioration ;"  gentle  ebullitions  of  feeling 
these,  very  natural  under  such  circumstances,  but  which  no 
man,  perhaps,  knows  better  how  to  repress  than  his  even- 
tempered  companion  in  travel. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  session  the  Bishop  arrived  and 
took  the  chair,  presiding  with  dignity,  and  pressing  busi- 
ness with  dispatch,  but  without  improper  haste  ;  sometimes 
acting  arbitrarily,  it  was  thought,  arresting  debate,  and 
putting  questions  when  he  thought  proper,  and  occasionally 
administering  a  sharp  rebuke.  But  the  Conference  was  in 
its  minority  and  submitted  patiently.  Upon  the  whole,  I 
admired  his  sound  discretion  and  firmness.  A  case  came 
up  which  taxed,  his  sympathies,  and,  in  the  sequel,  evinced 
that  he  possessed  much  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness.  A 
regular  bill  of  charges  had  been  preferred  by  an  officious 
and  aspiring  member  of  the  Conference  against  an  amiable 
and  pious  old  preacher,  founded  wholly  upon  the  character 
and  conduct  of  his  faithless  wife,  and  for  which  it  was  at- 
tempted to  hold  him  responsible  from  the  fact  that  he  con- 
tinued to  live  with  her.  All  loved  the  old  brother  and 
pitied  fcirn.  No  personal  blame  attaching  to  him,  he  was, 
after  an  exciting  trial,  easily  acquitted.  The  trial  over,  the 


ARKANSAS  CONFERENCE — GIFTS  AND   GRACES.    123 

Bishop  followed  with  some  remarks,  spoke  affectionately 
and  feelingly  of  his  long  acquaintance  with  the  accused, 
paid  a  high  tribute  to  his  moral  and  religious  worth,  ironic- 
ally rebuked  the  "species  of  moral  alchemy"  by  which  it 
had  been  sought  to  make  him  a  criminal  for  the  acts  of  an- 
other, and  attributed  all  to  the  unfortunate  choice  of  a  wife. 
He  then  gave  us  his  memorable  speech  on  marriage,  so 
widely  known.  "Remember,"  said  he  to  the  young  men, 
"the  preacher  that  marries  a  wife,  marries  her  for  the 
Church."  Portentous  words,  as  they  proved  in  his  own 
history.  It  was  understood  that  the  prospect  of  a  pending 
presiding  eldership  was  forfeited  by  the  aspirant  who  figured 
in  the  prosecution. 

No  other  Methodist  Annual  Conference,  perhaps,  has  had 
so  hard  a  struggle  as  has  fallen  to  the  lot  of  Arkansas  in 
all  its  history.  The  unhealthiness  of  the  climate;  the 
sparse  settlements ;  the  unsettled  condition  of  its  wealthier 
semi-citizens,  and  the  poverty  of  actual  settlers ;  the 
streams,  and  sloughs,  and  insects ;  the  meagerness  of  min- 
isterial support,  and  often  the  want  of  the  necessaries  of 
life,  with  the  consequent  scanty  supply  of  ministerial  expe- 
rience and  ability — all  conspired  to  make  its  itinerancy  an 
"up-hill  work."  Volunteers  had  been  called  for  at  other 
Conferences ;  quite  a  number  had  responded,  and  among 
them  men  of  promise ;  but  at  the  separation  of  the  South 
most  of  them  returned  to  their  former  homes. 

The  state  of  things  called  for  a  peculiar  class  of  men, 
and  it  was  not  a  little  amusing  to  listen  to  the  description 
of  "gifts  and  graces,"  given  hy  presiding  elders  and  others 
in  the  representation  of  character.  To  be  able  to  "swim  a 
slough"  with  courage  and  success  was  an  indispensable 
rarely  omitted  in  recommending  a  young  preacher.  Of  one 
it  was  said,  "He  is  a  good  shot ;  can  shoulder  his  rifle,  go 
to  the  woods,  and  in  a  little  time  bring  food  to  the  family 
where  he  is  entertained."  Of  another,  "He  can  cut  down 
a  tree,  dig  out  a  canoe,  and  paddle  it  equal  to  any  man  in 
the  country  "  Of  one  of  the  presiding  elders  near  the  Mis- 


124  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

sissippi  it  was  stated  that  he,  with  a  young  preacher,  made 
nearly  or  quite  an  entire  round  on  his  district  in  a  pirogue, 
when  all  the  country  was  navigable,  hauling  up  the  craft 
and  tying  up  during  the  quarterly  meeting,  and  then  resum- 
ing the  voyage.  One  of  their  preachers,  who  had  traveled 
in  Louisiana,  related  to  me  an  incident  of  his  having  passed 
a  night  in  a  wolf-pen  or  trap,  in  the  forests  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. This  was  done  to  secure  himself  from  the  wild 
beasts.  Fearing,  however,  that  his  wolfship  might  come 
and  claim  admittance,  he  sprung  the  trap  upon  himself. 
How  he  was  extricated  from  his  prison-house  in  the  morn- 
ing I  have  now  forgotten. 

My  association  with  these  suffering  brethren  was  pleasant 
and  profitable.  I  sympathized  in  their  sufferings,  admired 
their  courage,  and  formed  some  lasting  attachments.  A 
very  deep  interest  was  taken  in  our  Indian  work,  and  our 
appointment  to  an  Indian  mission  was  looked  upon  as  an 
especial  favor  contrasted  with  the  fields  of  labor  in  the 
State.  Our  transfers  were  recognized.  I  was  regularly  ap- 
pointed to  "Fort  Coffee  Academy  and  Mission,"  with  Rev. 
H.  C.  Benson  as  my  colleague ;  and  at  my  request,  Rev. 
John  Page,  a  native  preacher,  was  associated  with  us.  The 
mission  embraced  a  considerable  district  of  country  adja- 
cent. I  had  the  charge,  and  was  to  visit  the  different  points 
as  occasion  allowed ;  Page  was  to  do  the  principal  travel- 
ing and  preaching  among  the  natives,  to  have  his  home  at 
our  institution,  act  as  our  interpreter,  and  aid  by  his  influ- 
ence and  efforts  among  the  pupils.  Page  was  a  fine, 
sprightly  young  Choctaw,  full  blood,  very  dark  complex- 
ion, pious,,  cheerful,  and  agreeable.  He  had  been  educated 
at  the  Indian  school  at  the  Great  Crossings,  in  Kentucky, 
for  years  under  the  superintendence  of  Colonel  Richard  M. 
Johnson,  afterward  Vice-President  of  the  United  States. 
The  school  had,  in  the  main,  proved  a  failure  and  been  dis- 
continued. A  few  had  been  benefited,  Page  among  them. 
He  proved  an  agreeable  and  useful  helper. 

Conference  over,  I  again  took  up  the  line  of  march,  ac- 


AFFAIRS  AT  THE   MISSION.  125 

companied  by  brothers  Benson  and  Page.  No  grass  was 
permitted  to  grow  under  our  horses'  feet,  and  on  the  23d 
day  of  November  we  reached  Fort  Coffee,  and  found  all  in 
health,  except  our  foreman,  who  was  suffering  with  sickness. 

Now,  for  the  first  time,  I  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Benson 
on  missionary  ground,  and  soon  had  evidence  of  the  worth 
of  my  associates.  The  good  judgment  and  management 
of  brother  Benson  were  visible  in  their  results,  and  his 
unflagging  industry  was  the  theme  of  all.  The  large  new 
building  was  nearly  completed  for  the  reception  of  my 
family  and  his,  with  office,  etc.  He  had,  as  I  learned, 
labored  personally  with  his  hands  in  the  absence  or  failure 
of  others ;  even  carrying  the  hod  rather  than  let  the  work 
cease.  Sister  Benson,  too,  had  cheerfully  borne  up,  and, 
even  when  his  life  was  hanging  in  jeopardy,  had  expressed 
her  determination,  in  any  event,  not  to  leave  the  place.  I 
saw  at  once  that  that  mild  and  gentle  exterior  incased  a 
brave  and  noble  spirit,  and  time  only  confirmed  the  opinion. 

All  the  other  affairs  of  the  institution  were  in  a  safe  and 
prosperous  condition  ;  and,  notwithstanding  all  our  inevi- 
table past  hinderances,  we  still  had  a  prospect  of  a  speedy 
opening  of  the  school,  provided  our  needful  supplies,  now 
stored  below,  should  reach  us.  The  hands  in  our  employ 
had  in  some  respects  taken  advantage  of  my  absence. 
These  were  quietly  dismissed.  Many  of  the  mechanics  and 
laborers  employed  in  the  country  were  discharged  soldiers, 
who  only  could  be  controlled  by  strict  discipline  promptly 
enforced.  With  this  I  succeeded  without  difficulty. 

The  great  burden  of  preparatory  labor  was  now  over. 
Matters  were  assuming  a  cheerful  aspect,  and  we  began  to 
look  forward  with  pleasure  to  a  more  settled  and  regular 
system  of  operations,  with  a  little  circle  of  society,  now 
forming  around  us,  which  should  greatly  relieve  the  tedium 
of  our  wilderness  home.  Still,  to  me  the  reflection  came 
up,  "  Wife  and  children  are  not  here ;  where  ?  how  circum- 
stanced ?  how  long  the  separation  ?"  These  were  questions 
I  could  not  answer. 


126  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

PRELIMINARIES— SCHOOL  OPENED. 

No  time  was  lost  in  completing  arrangements  for  receiving 
the  large  accession  contemplated  to  our  numbers,  by  the 
hoped-for  arrival  of  my  family  and  the  ingathering  of  the 
Indian  boys  scattered  over  the  country  that  were  anxiously 
awaiting  our  bidding  to  come  into  their  expected  quarters. 
Time,  however,  hung  heavily  upon  my  hands ;  the  thought 
of  absent  ones,  in  a  strange,  rude  country ;  unknown,  un- 
protected, exposed,  perhaps  suffering.  Still  I  trusted  in  the 
providence  of  God  and  labored  on. 

On  the  13th  day  of  November  business  took  me  to  the 
Agency,  already  mentioned  as  five  miles  distant.  Major 
A.  met  me  with  a  smile.  "  I  have  good  news  for  you," 
said  he.  "What  is  that?"  I  asked.  "Your  family  are  at 
Fort  Smith,"  he  replied.  "A  boat  has  just  arrived,  and 
they  are  on  board,"  intelligence  to  that  effect  having  just 
reached  him.  Supposing  that  the  boat  would  come  no 
higher,  and  thankful  that  they  were  so  near,  I  set  off  for 
Fort  Coffee  in  haste  for  a  team  to  go  down  and  bring  them, 
up  by  land,  through  the  long  cane-brake  pass  that  inter- 
vened. What  sight  should  greet  me  on  my  arrival,  but  a 
magnificent  steamer  lying  at  our  landing,  and  my  wife  and 
children  all  safely  arrived,  the  former  with  health  greatly 
improved  !  If  ever  gratitude  to  a  kind  Providence  warmed 
my  heart,  I  felt  it  then ;  and,  now  that  death  has  removed 
her  beyond  the  reach  of  praise  or  dispraise,  I  may  add, 
increased  admiration  of  the  calm  fortitude  and  resolution 
that  I  always  knew  was  possessed  by  the  companion  of  my 
life  and  labors. 

The  man  to  whom  I  had  mainly  committed  my  affairs  at 


ARRIVAL    OF    MY    FAMILY.  127 

Little  Rock  had,  from  interested  views  it  would  appear, 
detained  my  freight,  suffering  boat  after  boat  to  pass.  Mrs. 
G.,  with  good  reason,  grew  dissatisfied  with  the  delay.  The 
river  was  at  a  good  stage.  The  fine  steamer  "Express 
Mail"  touched  at  the  landing,  upward  bound.  The  pastor, 
brother  Kerns,  was  absent.  Mrs.  G.  informed  my  agent, 
with  whom  she  boarded,  that  he  might  do  as  he  pleased 
with  the  freight,  but  demanded  that  he  should  put  herself 
and  little  ones  upon  the  boat,  determined  to  risk  a  passage 
up  into  the  Indian  country  alone.  It  was  done,  the  freight 
being  still  detained.  The  appearance  of  a  lady  and  chil- 
dren on  their  way  to  the  frontier,  unattended,  excited  in- 
quiry. The  reply  created  an  interest  in  their  behalf.  Cap- 
tain Haldeman,  a  gentleman,  in  all  respects  the  reverse  of 
our  previous  churl  commandant,  was  polite  and  attentive ; 
a  personal  acquaintance  and  friend  of  former  years  was 
recognized  in  one  of  the  officers ;  the  passengers  vied  with 
each  other  in  acts  of  kindness,  and  the  passage  was  safe 
and  pleasant  beyond  anticipation.  Thus  God  provided  for 
them,  and  thus  in  his  providence  was  happily  terminated  a 
most  tedious,  and,  in  some  respects,  painful  and  disastrous 
journey,  near  four  months  having  elapsed  since  we  had  left 
Indianapolis  and  set  our  faces  to  the  South- West. 

On  the  day  following  we  were  favored  with  a  visit  from 
Rev.  Messrs.  Parker,  Harrel,  and  Hunter,  members  of  the 
Arkansas  Conference,  appointed  as  a  committee  to  audit 
the  accounts  of  the  institution.  Major  Armstrong  was 
invited  to  act  with  them  and  settle  whatever  preliminaries 
were  necessary  to  the  work.  Rev.  Mr.  Harrel  was  then  our 
presiding  elder,  and  remained  to  hold  our  first  quarterly 
meeting. 

Our  permanent  residents  being  now  on  the  ground  the 
temporary  organization  was  gradually  supplanted  by  that 
which  was  intended  to  remain.  Several  of  the  employes 
were  quietly  dismissed  or  permitted  voluntarily  to  retire, 
their  places  supplied,  and  matters  began  to  assume  a  more 
settled  aspect.  Among  other  reforms  was  one  in  the  culinary 


128  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

branch  of  our  household  affairs,  that  department  so  difficult 
to  fill  in  all  large  boarding  establishments.  Mrs.  Benson, 
as  well  as  her  husband,  was  under  salary,  having  undertaken 
a  department  in  the  institution.  Mrs.  Goode  was  under  no 
engagement  of  the  kind.  The  two  ladies,  when  together, 
soon  demurred  to  the  management  of  the  kitchen,  or,  as  we 
termed  it,  our  "police  regulations."  They  proposed  that 
the  existing  officials  be  discharged,  and  offered  to  substitute 
their  own  voluntary  services  in  their  stead  till  other  arrange- 
ments should  be  made.  It  was  done.  Our  cooks  took  a 
downward  boat.  Months  elapsed  before  the  place  was 
regularly  filled,  and  the  interregnum  was  supplied  by  our 
volunteers,  to  the  no  small  additional  comfort  of  the  in- 
mates, however  hard  it  pressed  upon  the  pro  tern,  function- 
aries. At  the  filling  of  the  place  Mrs.  B.  resumed  her 
regular  department,  but  Mrs.  G.,  having  become  identified 
with  the  domestic  arrangements,  continued  her  relation,  not 
in  the  same  capacity,  the  labor  being  performed  by  others, 
but  in  the  general  oversight  and  control.  The  keys  of  our 
store-room  were  committed  to  her,  and  she  became  the 
acting  stewardess  of  the  concern,  a  relation  that  she  con- 
tinued to  sustain  to  the  close  of  our  stay ;  one  requiring 
much  time  and  care,  but  of  vast  importance  to  the  economy 
and  comfort  of  the  institution ;  a  service  for  which  she 
never  claimed  or  received  any  pecuniary  compensation. 
One  said,  "She  acts  as  though  the  institution  belonged  to 
her;"  this,  though  intended  as  a  complaint,  was  received 
as  an  encomium. 

The  interval  was  employed  by  brother  B.  and  myself  in 
various  mechanical  labors,  as  painting,  glazing,  white- 
washing, etc.  All  was  now  ready  on  our  part,  but  still  our 
freight  was  delayed,  including  our  supply  of  books,  clothing, 
and  othei-  indispensables ;  delayed,  as  we  had  reason  to 
believe,  by  our  agent  for  purposes  of  private  gain. 

Meanwhile  the  time  arrived  for  the  payment  of  the  Choc- 
taw  annuity,  in  the  Me-shu-la-tub-bee  district,  a  season 
always  of  great  interest  and  excitement.  The  manner  of 


ARRIVAL   OF  FREIGHT.  129 

conducting  these  payments  I  will  hereafter  notice.  This 
was  held  at  the  District  Council-Ground,  at  Bayou  Zeal, 
otherwise  called  Yak-ni-a-chuk-ma,  or  "good  ground,"  the 
place  originally  selected  as  the  site  for  our  institution,  but 
afterward  substituted  by  Fort  Coffee.  I  determined  to 
attend.  On  the  way  passed  the  graves  of  many  of  the 
Choctaws  that  had  been  swept  away  by  small-pox,  immedi- 
ately consequent  upon  their  immigration.  The  spectacle 
gave  melancholy  proof  of  the  effect  of  the  "  removal  policy," 
while  it  presented  affecting  evidence  of  the  working  of  the 
finer  feelings  of  humanity,  even  in  the  savage  heart,  in  the 
little  houses  built  over  the  graves,  and  various  tributes  of 
affection  for  the  departed ;  which,  rude  and  fragile  as  they 
were,  offered  a  silent  rebuke  to  the  neglect  and  indifference 
on  this  subject  often  witnessed  among  those  who  claim  to  bo 
civilized.  Here  we  were  favored  with  another  entertainment 
in  the  form  of  an  Indian  dance;  but  the  o-ka-ho-ma,  "fire- 
water," being  kept  away  by  the  vigilance  of  the  Agent,  the 
frolic  passed  off  without  damage. 

Weary  with  protracted  delay,  it  was  determined  that 
brother  Benson  should  start  for  Little  Hock  in  order  to 
hasten  our  freight.  Accordingly,  on  the  27th  of  De- 
cember he  set  out,  and  met  it  on  the  way  on  board  a 
petty  steam-scow,  to  which  it  had  been  improperly  con- 
signed, and  which  never  did  succeed  in  reaching  the  point 
of  destination.  It  was  reshipped  the  firs'  opportunity,  and 
after  an  absence  of  ten  days  brother  B.  returned,  bringing 
our  all  of  worldly  substance  with  him.  Thus  terminated 
the  transportation  of  our  stores,  nearly  three  months  after 
shipment  at  Cincinnati,  with  three  subsequent  storages  and 
as  many  reshipments.  On  opening  and  examination,  the 
extent  of  our  damage  and  loss  from  the  steamboat  disaster 
appeared,  a  mere  beginning  of  scenes  afterward  made  fa- 
miliar by  repetition  ;  but  we  "pocketed  the  loss." 

Persons  and  substance,  at  last,  were  all  on  the  ground. 
Our  present  connection  with  the  freaks  and  moods  of  the 
unreliable  Arkansas  and  its  not  more  reliable  navigators 


130  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ceased.  No  time  was  to  be  lost  in  grieving  for  the  past  ; 
the  future  demanded  all  our  attention.  Accordingly,  upon 
the  9th  day  of  January,  1844,  just  two  days  after  the 
arrival  of  our  goods,  we  opened  our  doors  for  the  reception 
of  students  already  selected  by  the  Council,  and  anxiously 
awaiting  the  time.  Our  rooms  were  soon  filled  with  boys 
of  from  ten  to  twenty-one  years  of  age,  though  the  Coun- 
cil designed  admitting  none  over  sixteen.  Circumstances, 
which  I  may  hereafter  mention,  operated  greatly  in  our 
favor  in  the  selection.  Our  pupils  were,  for  the  most 
part,  full-bloods,  selected  from  various  parts  of  the  Nation, 
and  proved  to  be  quite  as  tractable  and  subordinate  as  is 
usual  with  boys  of  their  age.  Their  manners  were,  of 
course,  rude  and  unpolished ;  but  in  the  main  their  dispo- 
sitions were  gentle  and  docile. 

Brother  Benson  entered  with  vigor  upon  the  duties  of 
teacher.  A  plan  was  laid  down  for  study,  labor,  and 
recreation.  On  a  post,  in  the  center  of  our  area,  hung 
the  large  bell.  Its  reveille  tones  roused  all,  and  called  them 
forth  at  a  stated,  early  hour  of  the  morning ;  and  its  curfew 
notes  in  the  evening  were  the  signal  for  the  extinguishment 
of  all  lights  and  retirement  to  rest.  Intermediate  signals 
announced  the  successive  calls  and  engagements  of  the  day. 
At  a  stated  hour  all  were  assembled  in  the  school-room,  our 
only  chapel,  for  morning  worship,  consisting  of  reading, 
singing,  and  prayer.  From  worship  they  passed  in  orderly 
procession  to  the  dining-hall,  where  all  were  seated  at  once 
to  meals,  embracing  our  own  families  and  the  different  em- 
ployes. The  students  maintained  silence  during  meals,  all 
remaining  at  the  tables  till  finally  dismissed,  and  retiring 
in  order.  Immediately  after  breakfast  they  were  summoned 
to  labor.  The  different  implements  of  husbandry  for  clear- 
ing, cultivation,  etc.,  were  supplied,  and  "all  hands"  spent 
an  hour  and  a  half  at  labor  under  the  superintendence  of 
myself  or  one  of  the  teachers.  The  labor  was  relieved  by 
cheerful  conversation,  and  the  time  agreeably  and  profitably 
spent.  A  signal  from  the  bell  called  off  from  work,  and  a 


HABITS — DRESS.  131 

season  of  recreation  ensued.  This  was  spent  in  various 
plays,  mostly  of  an  athletic  character,  and  affording  rare 
specimens  not  only  of  agility  and  skill,  but  often  of  gen- 
uine wit  and  humor,  all  under  a  constant  but  gentle  over- 
sight. Another  signal  called  to  study,  when  all  assembled 
at  the  school-room,  and  three  hours  were  spent  with  their 
books.  The  twelve  o'clock  bell  released  them,  and  the 
entire  noon-spell  was  allowed  for  dining  and  recreation. 
Three  hours  of  study  followed  in  the  afternoon,  succeeded 
by  one  hour  of  labor,  and  then  by  recreation,  worship, 
supper,  etc.  The  last  bell  was,  of  all  others,  most  reluct- 
antly complied  with.  Often  they  were  loth  to  relinquish 
sport  for  rest.  And  not  unfrequently  have  1,  after  all  the 
rooms  were  visited,  as  the  custom  was,  and  all  found  snugly 
laid  away  in  apparent  slumber,  had  to  repeat  the  visit,  and 
quiet  some  who  had  risen,  unclothed,  from  their  beds  to 
enter  anew  upon  their  frolics. 

A  few  from  the  abler  families  came  with  a  tolerable  sup- 
ply of  clothing ;  but,  for  the  most  part,  they  were  destitute, 
and  came  depending  on  our  supply.  The  dress  was  uni- 
form, consisting,  in  Winter,  of  gray  jeans  roundabout  and 
pants,  seal-skin  cap,  brogan  shoes,  socks,  handkerchiefs, 
etc.,  and,  in  Summer,  of  blue  calico  hunting-shirt,  palm- 
leaf  hat,  and  other  articles  to  correspond.  All  the  clothing 
was  numbered,  and  on  Saturday  evening  was  distributed, 
clean  and  in  good  repair.  Some  were  remarkably  neat  and 
tidy  in  their  persons,  while  others  were  slovenly  and  care- 
less— One  so  incurably  filthy  that  we  were  compelled  to 
dismiss  him.  The  new  dress  produced  quite  a  change  of 
appearance. 

Some  of  our  boys  had  already  received  English  names, 
while  others  had  only  their  heathen  or  Indian  names.  To 
such  we  gave  names  generally  after  those  of  persons  known 
as  active  and  bene\M^ent  friends  of  the  cause  of  missions  in 
the  States. 

Indian  youths  are  generally  apt  and  quick  in  elementary 
studies.  Their  pronunciation  is  usually  defective,  some 


132  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

sounds  being  never  mastered.  But,  with  this,  they  learn 
to  spell  and  read  with  amazing  facility,  often  before  they 
speak  the  language  or  understand  the  meaning  of  the  les- 
sons. Arithmetic  is  easily  acquired  by  them.  For  gram- 
mar and  the  higher  branches  of  lingual  study  they  have 
little  capacity.  The  mechanical  art  of  penmanship  they 
learn  with  great  ease,  while,  in  composition,  even  the  edu- 
cated ones  commit  the  most  simple  and  amusing  blunders. 
But  their  greatest  aptness  is  in  music.  Most  of  them  pos- 
sess a  fine  voice  and  an  excellent  ear  for  music,  learning 
readily  to  sing  by  air,  or  acquiring  with  facility  the  prin- 
ciples of  the  science. 

Some  of  our  students  were  found  to  be  suffering  under 
chronic  diseases,  and  quite  a  number  were  affected  with 
ulcers  and  sores  of  long  standing,  some  hereditary,  others 
originating  from  hurts  or  accidental  wounds,  and  neglected 
till  nearly  or  quite  incurable.  Under  the  directions  of  our 
physician  I  personally  undertook  their  treatment.  A  con- 
siderable time  was  spent  each  day  in  dressing  and  treating 
them,  and  with  some  degree  of  success.  In  this  work  and 
in  the  care  of  the  sick  I  was*  greatly  aided  by  our  assistant 
teacher,  Mr.  David  Brigham,  an  Irish  gentleman  of  good 
social  and  moral  qualities.  Mr.  Brigham  was  a  Presby- 
terian. He  had  gone  to  the  frontier  as  a  merchant,  had 
been  unfortunate,  was  reduced  in  circumstances,  and  sought 
employment  with  us.  He  proved  an  interesting  and  val- 
uable accession  to  our  society,  staid  with  us  to  the  close, 
and  accompanied  us  on  our  return  to  the  States. 

Very  erroneous  and  unfounded  opinions  are  entertained 
generally  as  to  the  skill  of  the  Indians  in  the  treatment 
of  disease.  A  few  simple  medicines  of  value  they  may 
have;  but,  in  the  general,  their  treatment  is'absurd,  unnat- 
ural, and  barbarous.  Many  an  upstart  in  his  profession 
passes  off  his  quackery  and  gains  a  wide  reputation  by  giv- 
ing out  that  he  "has  been  with  the  Indians,"  or  that  he  has 
learned  the  "Indian  cures."  Many  a  poor  sufferer  is  led  to 
abandon  humane  and  skillful  medical  aid,  and  resort  to  the 


RELIGION   AMONG  THE   STUDENTS.  133 

"Indian  doctor"  with  his  stupid  nostrums,  while  the  In- 
dians themselves  place  no  reliance  upon  their  own  skill, 
and  are  ready  to  take  medicine  from  any  white  man  that 
will  administer  it.  They  are  greatly  addicted  to  the  use  of 
medicine,  and  especially  inclined  to  blood-letting.  Their 
finding  that  I  had  some  knowledge  of  the  use  of  the  lancet 
led  to  repeated  applications  to  "hurt  my  arm,"  or  to  bleed, 
which  I  uniformly  refused.  A  mistake  also  exists  as  to  the 
general  health  and  constitutional  vigor  of  the  Indians.  An 
opinion  is  formed  from  the  appearance  of  those  that  are 
seen,  at  times,  traveling  in  the  white  settlements.  These 
are  their  best  specimens.  Go  to  their  lodges  and  camp- 
fires,  and  you  will  find  a  very  large  proportion  of  lame, 
blind,  maimed,  and  diseased  in  various  ways.  Most  of  the 
mission  stations  and  Government  agencies  are  provided 
with  a  supply  of  medicines  for  gratuitous  distribution  to 
Indians,  travelers,  and  all  necessitous  persons,  and  many 
of  the  missionaries  are  compelled  to  act  as  physicians, 
whether  making  any  pretensions  to  medical  acquirements 
or  not. 

Several  of  the  students  were. pious  at  the  time  of  their 
coming,  and  we  have  good  reason  to  believe  that  the  num- 
ber was  increased  during  their  stay.  Never  shall  I  forget 
the  emotions  produced  in  my  own  feelings  on  first  hearing 
their  singing.  Indulging,  at  one  time,  an  hour  of  pensive 
loneliness,  and  perhaps  temporary  mental  depression,  my 
attention  was  arrested  by  singing  in  one  of  the  rooms.  A 
number  of  the  boys  were  collected,  and  singing  the  verses 
of  an  Indian  hymn  to  one  of  my  old,  favorite  airs.  At 
the  close  of  each  Indian  stanza  all  voices  would  join  in  the 
familiar  English  chorus  of 

"  I  ain  bound  for  the  kingdom,"  etc. 

It  was  admirably  sung,  and  the  effect  may  be  easily  imag- 
ined by  those  who,  like  myself,  are  "impressible"  from 
this  quarter. 

They  are   fond    of   plaintive   airs,    and   many    of   their 


134  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

hymns  are  well  adapted.  The  name  of  "  Chisus,"  or 
"Jesus,"  often  occurs,  and  it  is  sung  with  peculiar  soft- 
ness and  devotional  effect.  I  often  united  with  them  in 
singing  their  own  hymns,  and  carried  a  separate  part. 
They  sing  with  fervor  and  apparent  devotion.  And  yet, 
strange  to  say,  I  never  yet  met  with  a  Choctaw,  however 
well  educated,  who  could  render  one  of  their  hymns  into 
good,  intelligible  English.  This  I  could  only  attribute  to 
a  defective  translation.  I  subjoin  a  single  verse,  as  a  spec- 
imen of  their  written  language  : 

"UBA    ISHT  TALOA. 

"  Chisus  im  anumpa  hoka 
Okla  momut  ho  haklo  ; 
Nanuha  kut  ultahushke ; 
Im  anumpa  ha  haklo  j 

Chisus  okut, 
Pi  okchalinchi  yoke." 


REV.   WESLEY   BROWNING.  135 


CHAPTER   XV. 

CREEK    INDIANS. 

TOWARD  the  Spring  of  1844  we  were  cheered  by  the 
arrival  of  Rev.  Wesley  Browning,  then  of  Missouri  Con- 
ference, and  formerly  of  Pittsburg.  He  came,  under  ap- 
pointment of  the  Bishop,  as  superintendent  of  the  other 
institution  provided  for  and  endowed  by  the  same  act  of  the 
General  Council  with  our  own,  and  known  as  Nun-na-wa- 
ya.  Brother  Browning  proved  to  be  a  valuable  and  inter- 
esting addition  to  our  society.  He  remained  in  the  country 
some  months,  and  much  of  the  time  was  an  inmate  of  our 
household.  He  will  always  be  remembered  as  a  brother 
beloved.  From  causes,  however,  to  which  I  need  not  refer, 
the  institution,  which  he  came  to  take  charge  of,  never  went 
into  operation.  The  arrangement  was  changed  by  an  act 
of  the  Council,  and  the  fund  distributed  among  other 
schools. 

My  attention  had  been  directed  by  the  authorities  of  the 
Church  to  the  Creek  Indians,  and  a  desire  expressed  that 
some  examination  should  be  made  into  their  condition, 
with  a  view  to  strengthening  our  missionary  effort  among 
them.  With  that  purpose,  upon  the  3d  of  April,  brother 
Browning  and  myself  took  passage  upon  a  steamer  lying 
at  our  landing,  bound  for  Fort  Gibson.  Two  letters 
written  by  me  at  that  time,  and  published  in  one  of  our 
religious  journals,  will  best  present  the  incidents  and  results 
of  that  brief  trip  of  exploration.  The  former  of  the  two 
was  written  from  Fort  Gibson,  Cherokee  Nation.  I  give 
the  larger  portion  : 

"I  am  now,  as  you  will  perceive,  at  the  ne  plus  ultra  of 


136  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

white  population  in  the  West,  this  being  nearly,  if  not 
quite,  the  most  westerly  of  all  the  military  posts  in  the 
United  States.  I  arrived  here  this  morning,  on  board  the 
steamer  Eveline,  in  company  with  Eev.  W.  Browning,  late 
of  Missouri  Conference. 

"  CANTONMENT  GIBSON  is  situated  on  the  Neosho  or 
Grand  River,  about  two  miles  above  its  junction  with  the 
Arkansas.  It  is  near  the  north  line  of  the  Cherokee  Na- 
tion, having  the  Muscogee  or  Creek  country  on  the  west,  and 
the  Seminoles  scattered  over  the  contiguous  parts  of  both 
nations.  The  Cherokee  Agency  is  at  this  place,  and  the 
Agencies  of  both  the  Creeks  and  Seminoles  are  within  a 
few  miles  distance.  There  is  also  a  number  of  trading- 
posts  in  the  vicinity.  These  causes,  in  connection  with  its 
extreme  western  position  in  the  neighborhood  of  three  of 
the  most  powerful  and  warlike  Indian  tribes,  contribute  to 
render  this  one  of  the  most  important  of  all  our  military 
posts.  There  are  stationed  here  two  companies  of  dragoons 
and  four  companies  of  infantry.  This  place,  if  I  mistake 
not,  was  styled  by  Mr.  Adams — John  Qtiincy — '  the  grave- 
yard of  the  army,'  in  consequence  of  its  supposed  unhealth- 
iness.  This  opinion  originated,  I  am  told,  in  the  great 
mortality  which  took  place  among  the  officers  and  soldiers, 
to  the  number,  perhaps,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  deaths  in 
one  season  ;  occasioned,  it  is  said,  by  disease  contracted  by 
undue  exposure  in  an  expedition  west.  The  site  is  beauti- 
ful and  commanding,  and  has  every  appearance  of  health. 
The  post  has  been  occupied  about  twenty  years.  West  of 
this  the  settlements  of  the  Creeks  extend  to  a  belt  of  tim- 
bered land  called  the  'Cross  Timbers.'  Here  the  timbered 
land  ceases,  and  the  great  western  openings  set  in  which 
extend  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  occupied  by  herds  of  buf- 
falo and  equally-wild  tribes  of  roving  Indians. 

"The  regulations  at  this  post,  so  far  as  respects  health, 
cleanliness,  and  general  good  order,  are  strict,  and  the  gen- 
eral aspect  of  the  place  is  that  of  neatness  and  comfort. 
This  is  true,  so  far  as  I  have  observed,  of  all  our  military 


SPILLING  UNCLE   SAM*S   WHISKY.  137 

posts.  The  officers  live  in  good  style.  The  religious  aspect, 
however,  is  far  from  being  flattering.  Without  chaplains, 
and  seldom  having  religious  service,  vice  abounds  to  a  fear- 
ful extent  and  almost  without  control,  except  as  it  interferes 
with  army  regulations.  Intemperance  is  still  the  bane  of 
the  army,  as  it  is  of  the  Indian  tribes.  Notwithstanding 
the  withdrawal,  by  the  War  Department,  of  whisky  from  the 
regular  rations  of  the  soldiers,  and  the  regulations  of  the 
United  States  Government  to  prevent  the  introduction  of 
ardent  spirits  into  the  Indian  country,  still  both  soldiers 
and  Indians  can  obtain  it  whenever  they  have  the  means  to 
pay  for  it.  So  little  regard  is  paid  to  the  regulations  upon 
this  subject,  that  liquor  is  openly  sold  to  both  Indians  and 
soldiers.  Even  now,  while  I  am  writing,  the  bar  of  our 
boat  is  crowded.  It  is  truly  painful  to  see  handsome  and 
sprightly-looking  Indian  girls  standing  around  and  wait- 
ing for  a  dram.  Whisky  rations  are  still  allowed  to  sol- 
diers upon  'extra  duty.'  One  of  the  officers  gave  us  an 
account  of  the  destruction,  by  the  authorities  of  the  Chero- 
kee Nation,  of  a  quantity  of  whisky,  the  property  of  the 
United  States.  Very  well  done." 

The  incident  here  referred  to  is  too  good  to  be  lost. 
Under  pretense  of  "extra"  or  "fatigue"  duty,  large  quan- 
tities of  spirits  then  were,  and  probably  now  are,  supplied 
to  the  different  military  stations  by  the  Government.  A 
boat,  on  her  passage  up,  laden  with  military  stores,  met 
with  a  misfortune  which  caused  her  to  discharge  her  freight 
upon  the  Cherokee  lands.  Among  the  stores  were  some 
twenty  barrels  of  whisky.  The  authorities  of  the  Nation 
came  to  hear  it,  and  men  were  dispatched  to  execute  the 
law  upon  it.  In  vain  was  it  pleaded  that  it  belonged  to  the 
Government.  The  majesty  of  their  law  was  maintained, 
the  barrels  were  tomahawked,  and  the  liquor  incontinently 
spilled. 

The  letter  continues:  "It  is  a  humiliating  fact  that  the 
authorities  of  the  Indian  tribes  are  far  more  prompt  and 
vigilant  in  this  matter  than  many  of  the  officers  of  our 

12 


138  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

own  Government.  It  is  even  doubted  whether  there  is  any 
less  dissipation  in  the  army  since  the  withdrawal  of  whisky 
rations  than  before.  Nor  will  it  be  better  till  officers  and 
agents  shall  unite  their  efforts  in  good  earnest,  and  add,  in 
all  cases,  example  to  the  weight  of  official  authority.  It  is 
due,  however,  to  say  that  there  are  among  the  officers  of  the 
army,  at  almost  every  post,  men  whose  morals  are  unim- 
peachable, and  who  lend  the  whole  weight  of  their  influence 
and  authority  to  the  cause  of  morals  and  virtue ;  and  some 
are  men  of  decided  piety.  Such  are  an  honor  to  their  pro- 
fession and  a  blessing  to  their  country.  To  maintain  a 
character  for  consistent  piety  amid  the  surrounding  adverse 
influences  that  exist  here,  marks  a  noble  and  elevated  mind. 
Honorable  mention  might  be  made  of  Colonel  Loomis, 
commandant  at  this  place,  Major  H.,  of  Fort  Smith,  Dr. 
B.,  Surgeon  to  the  arsenal  at  Little  Rock,  and  others.  The 
first  of  the  above-named  gentlemen  exerted,  as  I  am  told,  a 
most  happy  influence,  while  commanding  at  Fort  Towson, 
in  the  improvement  of  the  morals  of  the  soldiers,  and  is 
successfully  prosecuting  the  same  efforts  here.  We  were 
furnished  with  letters  of  introduction  to  him,  but  found  him 
absent.  We,  however,  have  received  polite  and  courteous 
attention  from  other  officers. 

"But  I  have  said  more  about  military  posts  and  military 
men  than  I  intended.  I  now  leave  them. 

"Very  favorable  changes  are  taking  place  among  the 
Creeks.  You  learn,  from  the  lately-published  letter  of  broth- 
er Peter  Harrison,  a  Creek,  that  the  act  of  their  National 
Council,  punishing,  under  a  severe  penalty,  the  preach- 
ing of  the  Gospel,  has  been  suspended.  Our  Creek  brethren 
have  had  a  fiery  trial,  and  have  borne  it  with  Christian  for- 
titude and  magnanimity.  God  is  now  sending  deliverance ; 
the  way  is  again  open.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  extreme 
of  violence  to  which  they  carry  their  measures  of  opposi- 
tion and  persecution  is  producing  a  favorable  reaction,  and 
that  now  is  the  time  to  strike  in  the  Creek  Nation.  I  hope 
that  our  Church  will  not  be  behind.  I  am  now  within  fif- 


ALLIGATOR  AND   THE   SEMINOLES.  139 

teen  miles  of  the  residence  of  brother  Harrison,  and  regret 
that  I  shall  not  be  able  to  see  him.  I  have  made  particular 
inquiry,  however,  and  find  him  to  be  a  young  man  highly 
respected  for  intelligence  and  piety,  and  likely  to  exert  a 
happy  influence  among  his  people. 

"  We  this  morning  had  an  interview,  upon  the  boat,  with 
the  celebrated  Seminole  Chief,  Alligator,  and  several  of  his 
] -arty.  He  is  a  small,  diminutive  old  man,  much  less  im- 
posing in  appearance  than  the  Seminoles  generally.  Wild- 
Cat,  whom  I  saw  last  Summer  at  the  General  Council,  is  a 
man  of  much  finer  appearance.  These  two  Chiefs  have  ac- 
quired celebrity  by  the  part  which  they  acted  in  the  Florida 
War.  They  are  about  starting,  in  company  with  several 
others,  as  a  delegation  to  Washington  to  obtain  what  they 
conceive  to  be  their  rights.  The  Seminoles  are  in  a  deplor- 
able condition  ;  without  home  or  country,  without  money, 
without  rations,  without  habits  of  life  adapted  to  this  cli- 
mate, and  to  their  present  situation.  No  marvel  that  they 
complain  !  They  seem  to  have  lost  much  of  the  elevated 
mien  and  lofty  tread  which  characterized  them  at  the  Coun- 
cil at  Tah-le-quah,  when  surrounded  by  the  other  tribes. 
John  Bemo,  alias  John  Douglas,  the  converted  Seminole 
who  came  West,  is  laboring  among  them.  His  character 
has  been  the  subject  of  vile  aspersions.  I  trust  he  will  out- 
live them  all,  and  be  useful. 

"  One  design  of  our  present  visit  is  to  open  up  the  way, 
should  Providence  permit,  to  some  labors  among  the  Creeks 
and  Seminoles,  etc."  .... 

The  second  of  these  letters  bears  date  at  the  Falls  of  Ver- 
digris, Creek  Nation.  I  extract  as  follows  : 

"  I  wrote  you  from  Fort  Gibson.  We  left  that  place  on 
the  afternoon  of  to-day,  and  came  down  to  the  mouth  of 
Grand  River ;  thence  up  Verdigris  to  this  landing,  which  is 
the  head  of  steam  navigation  upon  this  branch.  These 
three  rivers  form  a  beautiful  junction,  their  mouths  being 
so  near  to  each  other  as  to  be  all  seen  at  one  view.  The 
water  of  Grand  River  is  extremely  clear;  that  of  the 


140  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

Arkansas  muddy  and  of  a  deep  red ;  while  the  color  of  that 
of  the  Verdigris  is  indicated  by  its  name  ;  all  refusing,  like 
those  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  to  commingle  for  a 
long  distance  below  the  junction,  each  pertinaciously  keep- 
ing to  its  own  side  till,  at  length,  the  Arkansas  prevails 
and  gives  character  to  the  stream  below.  Grand  River  is  a 
fine  stream,  and  said  to  be  navigable  for  steamboats  to 
Grand  Saline,  fifty  miles  up.  [This  is  the  same  stream 
known  as  the  Neosho,  upon  the  head-waters  of  which,  in 
Southern  Kansas,  extensive  settlements  have  been  since 
made.]  ....  Arkansas  River  might  be  ascended  by 
steamboats  some  four  or  five  hundred  miles  further,  [we 
were  then  about  eight  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,] 
but  there  is  no  inducement,  the  highest  trading-house  being 
within  a  few  miles  above  the  junction.  Travelers  give 
accounts  of  a  very  remarkable  salt-plain,  some  hundreds  of 
miles  up  the  Arkansas,  where  salt  is  formed  by  natural 
evaporation.  I  have  seen  a  large  specimen.  Canadian 
River,  another  of  the  principal  branches,  has  its  mouth 
some  fifty  miles  below.  Its  sources  lie  southward,  and  it 
partakes  of  the  same  character  with  the  main  Arkansas.  A 
short  distance  below  is  Webber's  Falls.  Here  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Vore,  who,  with  his  family,  was  murdered  by  the 
Cherokees  last  Summer.  A  man  who  had  been  in  our  em- 
ploy, as  a  mechanic,  at  Fort  Coffee,  was  passing  the  night 
as  a  guest  in  the  house  of  Vore,  and  shared  the  fate  of  the 
family.  He  was  the  '  stranger '  spoken  of  in  the  published 
accounts  of  the  affair. 

"Upon  entering  the  Verdigris  we  have  the  Creek  country 
upon  our  left.  They  still  adhere  to  their  ancient  practice  of 
living  together  in  towns  or  small  communities,  each  of 
which  has  its  Chief,  and  all  united  under  one  Head- Chief. 
The  influence  of  these  Chiefs  is  very  great. 

"The  distinction  is  still  kept  up  between  the  'Upper' 
and  'Lower'  Creeks,  which  existed  previous  to  their  emi- 
gration, and  each  party  retains  its  old  name,  though  their 
relative  positions  are  reversed.  The  Upper  Creeks  retain 


PROMINENT  CREEKS.  141 

their  attachment  to  ancient  usages,  and,  consequently,  do 
not  advance  so  rapidly  in  improvement.  We  had  a  speci- 
men of  the  villages  of  the  Lower  Creeks  as  we  ascended 
this  river,  the  bank  being  lined,  for  about  three  miles,  with 
cabins  and  fields  occupied  by  the  Coosardie  band.  The 
natives  perched  themselves  in  crowds  upon  the  shore,  greet- 
ing us  with  loud  cheers,  and  waving  signals  as  our  boat 
passed.  The  Creeks,  though  less  advanced  in  many  re- 
spects, have  more  personal  industry  than  any  of  the  sur- 
rounding tribes.  They  are  frequently  found,  upon  steam- 
boats and  elsewhere,  laboring  for  wages  ;  a  rare  occurrence 
for  a  Cherokee,  and  still  more  so  for  a  Choctaw.  They 
have  some  excellent  soil,  and  are  fast  becoming  an  agricul- 
tural people.  They  raise  corn  in  such  quantities  as  consid- 
erably to  reduce  the  price.  They  have  of  late  taken  to  the 
cultivation  of  rice,  which  succeeds  well  upon  the  lowlands, 
and  bids  fair  to  become  a  staple  article  of  export. 

"  We  are  here  within  a  few  miles  distance  of  the  residence 
of  General  Holy  M'Intosh,  Head-Chief  of  the  Nation, 
[spoken  of  in  a  former  chapter.]  .  .  .  We  have  also 
met  with  Captain  Dawson,  the  Creek  Agent,  and  with  Mar- 
shall, a  chief  counselor  of  M'Intosh,  and  one  of  the  most 
influential  men  of  the  Nation.  Marshall  disclaims  wholly 
the  oppressive  act  of  the  last  Council,  says  it  was  the  act  of 
a  minority  and  never  was  a  law,  and  that  the  way  is  now 
open  for  preaching  the  Gospel  among  them.  It  is  evident, 
however,  that  from  causes  which  need  not  be  named,  [pre- 
vious failures,]  there  exists  a  jealous  distrust  of  mission- 
aries, which  can  only  be  removed  by  time,  guarded  move- 
ments, and  the  most  exemplary  conduct  on  their  part ;  and 
on  part  of  the  Nation,  a  fair  experiment  of  the  benefits  of 
missionary  operations,  confidence  among  them  will  bo 
slowly  regained.  The  American  Board  has  a  missionary 
establishment  among  them,  and  the  Department  at  Wash- 
ington is  taking  measures  for  the  opening  of  several  schools 
upon  a  small  scale.  The  Nation  has  an  '  orphan  fund  * 
sufficient  to  support  one  or  two  good  institutions,  Which 


142  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

they  are  desirous,  with  the  consent  of  the  Government,  of 
appropriating  in  that  way.  Marshall  speaks  in  respectful 
terms  of  the  character  and  deportment  of  the  members  of 
our  Church  in  the  Nation.  We  design,  if  Providence  per- 
mit, visiting  the  settlements  and  administering  the  ordi- 
nances of  religion  to  these  suffering,  persecuted  followers 
of  Christ. 

"Here  the  same  scene  has  been  acted  over  again  as  at 
Fort  Gibson ;  the  bar  open,  and  the  boat  crowded  with 
Indians,  men,  women,  and  children.  There  are  also  num- 
bers of  abandoned,  loafing  white  men,  who,  under  one  pre- 
tense or  other,  are  prowling  about  the  Indian  country, 
greatly  to  the  annoyance  of  some,  and  the  corruption  and 
debasement  of  others.  Marshall  informs  me  that  the  coun- 
try is  greatly  infested  with  gamblers,  of  whom  he  expresses 
great  abhorrence  and  desire  for  their  expulsion.  The  worst 
of  the  population  is  usually  found  about  the  steamboat 
landings  and  other  public  places.  In  the  interior  there  is 
probably  more  sobriety  and  virtue. 

"All  our  company,  whites  and  Indians,  have  suddenly 
disappeared  from  the  boat.  I  learn  that  they  have  repaired 
to  a  house  not  far  distant  for  a  dance,  and  probably  a 
drunken  debauch.  How  ardently  should  Christians  pray 
that  these  benighted  regions  should  speedily  be  visited  with 
the  light  of  Divine  truth  !" 

As  I  may  not  again  have  occasion  to  speak  of  the  Creek 
Indians,  a  few  more  particulars  may  be  added.  They  are 
one  of  the  largest  tribes  of  removed  Indians,  numbering 
about  twenty  thousand,  nearly  the  same  with  the  Choctaws 
or  Cherokees.  The  original  name  of  the  tribe  is  "Mus-co- 
gees."  Of  this  they  are  proud,  rejecting  the  appellation  of 
Creeks  with  disdain.  Their  warlike  character  is  matter  of 
history.  The  Seminoles,  now  a  small  band,  are  of  common 
origin  with  them.  The  Creeks  hold  some  slaves,  though 
not  so  many  as  the  Choctaws,  Chickasaws,  or  Cherokees. 
They  have  intermingled  largely  with  the  negroes  by  mar- 
riage. Some  of  their  leading  men  are  of  the  mixed  blood. 


CREEK    PERSECUTIONS.  143 

Such  amalgamations  are  now  forbidden  by  law,  under 
penalty  of  whipping  for  the  first  offense  and  death  for  the 
second  ;  and  M'Intosh,  the  present  Chief,  enforces  it  sternly. 
Missionary  operations  among  them  in  past  years  were 
attended  with  promising  success.  A  number  were  converted, 
and  remained  steadfast.  But  confidence  was  forfeited  by 
gross  misconduct  on  part  of  persons  appointed  as  mission- 
aries at  an  early  time,  and  a  prejudice  was  conceived  against 
the  missionary  work  that  has  never  been  removed.  The 
persecutions  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  extract  were  re- 
vived again  the  following  year,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
following  extract  of  a  letter  subsequently  received  by  me, 
dated  "  North  Fork,  Creek  Nation,  February  11,  1845." 
I  give  it  as  written,  orthography  and  all,  being  a  specimen 
of  Indian  composition  of  the  better  class. 

"  BROTHER  W.  H.  GOODE — SIR, — I  this  day  feel  it  my 
to  write  a  few  lines  by  Bro.  Smedley,  to  inform  you 


that  persecution  lately  Broke  out  in  the  Town  of  North 
Fork,  and  one  of  our  Baptist  Bro.,  named  Jesse,  was  Caught 
at  his  Residence  and  Received  fifty  lashes  on  his  naked  back. 
The  same  evening  when  we  appointed  to  hold  meeting  at 

Bro.  D 's  old  place,  one  of  our  Exhorters  named  Moses 

when  he  was  Coming  down  to  our  appointed  meeting  he 
was  taken  by  his  cruels  friends  and  they  made  him  stood 
between  two  trees  and  his  arms  were  extended  and  his  legs 
stretched,  too  much  like  the  Crucifixtion  of  our  Savior  and 
they  gave  him  fifty.  This  is  not  all,  one  of  our  old  native 
woman  on  account  of  being  the  first  Convert  in  the  Oke-ti- 
oc-na  Town  received  the  Same.  Bro.  Peter  Harrison  threat- 
ened to  be  whiped,  because  he  is  the  first  on  the  Arkansas 
side.  .  .  .  Oh,  pray  for  us,  tell  our  Brethren  to  pray 
for  us,  &c.,  &c." 

Major  William  Armstrong,  as  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs,  strongly  urged  upon  the  Creeks  the  appropriation 
of  their  funds  to  schools  similar  to  ours  at  Fort  Coffee. 


144  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

There  is  now  before  me  an  extract  from  a  letter  of  his  to 
Holy  M'Intosh,  in  which  he  pays  a  tribute  to  the  missionary 
operations  of  our  Church  in  that  country,  himself  being  of 
a  different  religious  persuasion.  He  writes  : 

"I  have  recommended  the  Methodist  Society,  under  a 
full  conviction  that  they  are  better  qualified,  taking  every 
thing  into  view,  to  conduct  a  manual-labor  school  than  any 
other." 

A  deep  interest  was  awakened  in  my  mind  in  behalf  of 
this  people,  and  a  desire  that,  so  soon  as  our  enterprise 
among  the  Choctaws  was  fully  organized  and  under  way, 
the  seat  of  my  own  labors  should  be  transferred  to  the 
Creeks.  These  plans,  however,  were  prevented  by  the  oc- 
currence of  unforeseen  circumstances  in  the  history  of  the 
Church,  which  withdrew  me  from  a  field  of  Southern  labor 
earlier  than  anticipated. 

Dawson,  the  Agent  referred  to  in  one  of  the  foregoing 
extracts,  a  few  months  after  killed,  in  a  rencounter,  Seaborn 
Hill,  a  wealthy  and  influential  trader  among  the  Creeks, 
and  member  of  a  well-known  house  in  New  Orleans.  Daw- 
son  fled  the  country.  So  much  for  the  example  and  in- 
fluence of  Government  officers.  Poor  Indians  !  The  "ten- 
der mercies"  of  the  white  man  have  been  "cruel"  indeed 
to  them. 


OUR  SCHOOL.  145 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

AFFAIRS  AT  FORT  COFFEE. 

OUR  work  at  Fort  Coffee  was  now  in  a  prosperous  con- 
dition. The  institution  was  succeeding,  and  all  were  peace- 
ful and  contented.  Our  society  was  small,  but  we  were 
confidentially  united  in  common  Christian  feeling  and  effort, 
and  so  remained  to  the  last.  Our  harmony  was  never 
disturbed. 

Our  Indian  boys,  though  freakish  and  attached  to  their 
own  habits  of  life,  were  easily  controlled.  No  bad  case  of 
insubordination  ever  occurred  under  our  charge.  A  plenti- 
ful supply  of  palatable  food  has  much  to  do  in  fixing  the 
local  attachments  of  an  Indian.  No  small  object  is  at- 
tained by  them  when  their  precarious  and  often  scanty  sub- 
sistence is  exchanged  for  regular  and  ample  diet.  This  had 
been  carefully  provided  for  in  the  act  of  the  Council  estab- 
lishing the  school,  by  requiring  that  the  Superintendent  and 
teachers,  with  their  families,  should  take  their  meals  with 
the  pupils  at  the  common  table — an  arrangement  always 
carried  out  in  Indian  schools.  Our  culinary  and  domestic 
departments  were  provided  for  by  the  employment  of  a 
family  of  colored  persons,  among  whom  the  labors  were 
distributed,  thus  releasing  the  ladies  of  our  household  from 
the  heavy  labors  which,  for  a  time,  they  had  voluntarily 
assumed,  and  allowing  them  to  return  to  their  appropriate 
positions. 

The  progress  of  the  pupils  generally  in  learning  was  sat- 
isfactory and  encouraging,  and  their  labors,  though  only  at 
intervals  of  the  day,  contributed  to  the  cultivation  and  en- 
largement of  our  mission  farm.  Regular  religious  services 
were  held  on  the  Sabbath,  attended  by  our  own  household, 

13 


146  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

now  numbering  about  fifty,  the  whites  and  slaves  from  the 
Agency  and  trading-post,  and  native  Choctaws  and  Chero- 
kees  of  the  vicinity,  constituting  a  congregation  of  consid- 
erable size.  Class  meetings  were  introduced,  a  Sunday 
school  organized,  and  all  the  machinery  of  religious  train- 
ing and  education  put  into  motion. 

The  Spring  of  1844  was  a  season  of  extraordinary  and 
continued  rains.  These  were  followed  by  the  "June  rise," 
from  the  melting  of  the  mountain  snows,  which,  finding 
the  river  already  swollen  and  earth  saturated,  raised  it  to 
an  extraordinary  hight.  Four  several  times,  within  three 
months,  the  Arkansas  overflowed  its  banks.  For  a  length 
of  time  intercourse  was  cut  off  by  land,  and  even  naviga- 
tion checked  by  the  fury  of  the  current.  The  lowlands 
were  inundated,  cotton  crops  destroyed,  and  great  damage 
done  to  farms,  mills,  etc.,  in  the  State  below  us.  Much 
injury  was  sustained  from  the  falling  in  of  the  banks. 
Towns  suffered  from  the  encroachments  of  the  river.  But 
our  own  majestic  bluff,  like  another  Gibraltar,  stood  out 
midway  the  stream,  and  braved  the  fury  of  the  current ; 
and,  peninsulated  as  we  were  by  the  world  of  wafers,  the 
only  effect  of  the  dashing  surges  was  to  lull  us  to  repose 
in  the  stillness  of  the  evening. 

During  this  suspension  of  intercourse,  the  memorable 
scenes  of  the  General  Conference  of  1844  were  in  progress. 
Exciting  subjects,  too,  were  occupying  the  attention  of  the 
National  Congress.  All  the  elements  of  ecclesiastical  and 
political  strife  seemed  to  be  in  commotion,  while,  through 
the  inevitable  failure  of  the  mails,  we  were  kept  in  utter 
darkness  as  to  the  events  transpiring,  except  as  a  straggling 
paper  might  by  chance  reach  us,  and  barely  indicate  the 
war  and  tumult  that  were  raging.  What  disposal  was  to 
be  made  of  us,  distant,  voiceless,  fettered  as  we  were? 
Were  we  to  be  bargained  off  and  delivered  over,  nolens 
volens  ?  What  was  to  be  the  fate  of  our  work  ?  Indig- 
nantly did  we,  in  conversation  with  the  few  friendly  out- 
siders around  us,  repel  the  insinuation  of  a  probable  dis- 


OUK  SOCIAL  CIRCLE.  147 

ruption  of  our  body-ecclesiastic.  At  length,  however,  the 
finale  was  reached.  It  was  announced,  in  a  letter  that 
came  to  hand  near  midsummer,  from  a  clerical  friend,  who, 
up  to  that  time,  had  been  an  avowed  and  inveterate  hater 
of  what  he  was  pleased  to  term  the  "  abominable  system 
of  slavery,"  but  who  is,  to  this  day,  adhering  and  laboring 
in  the  ranks  of  Southernism,  as  follows:  "Well,  the  Gen- 
eral Conference  is  through  at  last,  and  the  Church  is  not 
quite  pulled  to  pieces  ;  but  it  is  believed  that  a  division  is 
inevitable.  A  basis  is  laid  and  a  highway  thrown  up  for 
each  party  to  pick  up  their  pack  and  walk  deliberately  off. 
And  there  are  some,  both  North  and  South,  that  will,  no 
doubt,  gladly  embrace  the  opportunity." 

During  much  of  the  time  of  our  isolation,  we  were  fa- 
vored with  the  company  of  brother  Browning,  detained  a 
prisoner  of  the  floods.  At  a  later  period  we  entertained  as 
guests,  for  some  time,  Rev.  Sydney  Dyer  and  lady,  who 
had  come  out  as  missionaries  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Baptist  Church.  Mr.  D.  did  not  remain  long  in  the 
Indian  country.  Since  his  return  East  he  has  become  a 
popular  writer  of  poetry.  Other  occasional  guests  enliv- 
ened our  little  circle ;  but,  among  all  the  members  of  our 
group,  there  was  none  who  imparted  more  cheerfulness  and 
pleasure  to  our  social  intercourse  than  our  never-forgotten 
sister,  Mrs.  Benson.  Always  placid,  serene,  unruffled,  let 
-  whatever  causes  of  disquietude  there  might  affect  the  minds 
of  others,  she  calmly  sat  at  her  window  and  sung  away  the 
hours  of  daily  employment.  Often  have  her  melodious 
notes  cheered  me  in  the  distance,  while  my  constitutional 
impetuosity  has  been  checked  and  my  periods  of  temporary 
depression  encouraged,  in  words,  by  the  nearer  approaches 
of  another  voice,  now  hushed  and  silent  in  the  grave. 

At  the  General  Conference  of  that  year  a  new  arrange- 
ment was  made  for  the  Indian  work.  The  whole  country 
between  Red  River  and  the  Missouri,  and  between  the  States 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was  formed  into  an  Indian  Mis- 
sion Conference,  with  a  Superintendent  appointed  by  the 


148  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

Bishop  over  the  whole.  Rev.  J.  0.  Berry  man,  of  Missouri 
Conference,  and  late  of  the  Indian  Manual-Labor  School 
among  the  Shawnees,  was  appointed  Superintendent.  The 
creation  of  the  Conference  was  a  wise  and  necessary  meas- 
ure. Our  mission  work  always  suffers  so  long  as  it  is  a 
mere  appendage  of  the  established  work  of  the  older  Con- 
ferences. Experience  has  amply  demonstrated  this.  The 
office  of  Conference  Superintendent,  however,  was  a  sine- 
cure, serving  only  to  clog  and  complicate  the  machinery  by 
creating  a  system  of  threefold  superintendency  and  sub- 
superintendency  between  the  fountain  of  authority  and  the 
actual  operatives.  The  simpler  all  the  machinery  of  our 
missionary  organization  the  better,  and  the  more  directly 
responsible  all  its  functionaries  are  for  their  acts  the  more 
smoothly  and  efficiently  will  the  wheels  roll  on.  The  first 
annual  session  of  our  new  Mission  Conference  was  fixed 
at  the  Shawnee  school ;  but  it  was  subsequently  changed 
to  the  Cherokee  Council-Ground  at  Tah-le-quah. 

I  have  before  referred  to  our  large  Church  membership 
among  the  Choctaws  and  Cherokees,  and  also  to  the  early 
piety  of  some  of  our  pupils.  There  is  an  interesting  sim- 
plicity generally  found  in  Indian  piety,  little  concealment 
or  apparent  dissimulation.  True,  there  are  many  relapsings 
and  backslidings,  and  some  fearful  falls ;  and  what  less 
could  be  expected  where  there  is  so  little  light  and  so  great 
exposure  ?  But  these  are,  for  the  most  part,  open  and  pal- 
pable, attended  with  frank  confession,  which  opens  the  way 
to  penitence  and  restoration — unlike  the  studied  consistency 
of  deportment  which,  among  us,  often  marks  the  outward 
life  of  the  inwardly  fallen,  and  which  effectually  cuts  them 
off  from  the  pastoral  and  disciplinary  treatment  so  essential 
to  their  recovery  and  reestablishment  in  piety.  Indians 
professing  to  be  converted  seem  to  think  it  a  matter  of 
course  that  they  should,  on  all  occasions,  bear  the  cross  in 
public  religious  exercises.  I  never  recollect  a  single  refusal 
to  pray  or  to  speak  when  occasion  required  it.  I  was  pe- 
culiarly impressed  with  the  scenes  of  our  first  love-feast 


THE   MAN    CHARLES.  149 

held  among  the  Indian  members  connected  with  Fort  Coffee 
Mission.  Each  in  succession  among  the  men  and  women 
would  arise  and  modestly  walk  forward,  take  a  position 
near  my  seat,  and  declare  the  dealings  of  God  with  their 
souls  with  all  the  simplicity  and  apparent  docility  of  a 
child  approaching  to  recite  a  lesson,  and  then  retire. 

The  history  of  the  boys,  after  our  separation  from  the 
work,  was,  in  a  great  measure,  lost  to  me.  Enough,  how- 
ever, was  seen  and  heard  to  show  that  the  labor  bestowed 
upon  them  had  not  been  in  vain.  Some  entered  useful  avo- 
cations, one,  at  least,  became  a  minister  among  his  people, 
and  several  passed  away  in  early  life,  I  trust,  to  a  mansion  in 
the  heavenly  home. 

Among  the  employes  of  our  establishment  was  one 
whom  I  will  not  forbear  to  mention,  both  on  account  of  the 
intrinsic  merits  of  his  own  character  and  as  an  illustration 
of  the  workings  of  the  peculiar  institution  of  the  South. 
Soon  after  my  taking  charge  at  Fort  Coffee,  I  was  advised 
by  a  brother  minister  to  employ  among  our  laborers  one  or 
more  negro  slaves,  lest,  by  seeming  to  avoid  them  and  em- 
ploying white  persons  in  preference,  I  should  incur  the 
imputation  of  being  an  "abolitionist."  I  failed  to  appre- 
ciate the  reasoning  of  my  good  brother.  But  what  his 
arguments  had  failed  to  accomplish  was  afterward  effected 
by  considerations  of  a  different  character.  The  failure,  as 
before  stated,  of  our  German  cooks,  and  the  severe  and  un- 
intended drudgery  temporarily  imposed  upon  members  of 
our  own  household,  created  a  case  of  necessity  which  could 
be  disposed  of  in  no  other  way.  Accordingly  I  employed 
an  entire  family  of  sufficient  force  to  perform,  with  occa- 
sional help,  the  labors  of  the  kitchen,  laundry,  dormitories, 
and  all  incidental  service.  The  head  of  the  family  was  the 
man  Charles,  a  stalwart  African  in  the  prime  of  life,  large, 
well  formed,  and  of  immense  muscular  power.  Charles 
had  been  raised  a  slave,  mostly  in  the  army  in  the  service 
of  the  officers.  His  principal  employment  had  been  that 
of  a  cook,  but  he  was  instructed  in  performing  genteel  serv- 


150  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

ice  generally.  Part  of  the  duty  required  of  him,  while  at  a 
certain  station,  was  the  care  of  his  temporary  master,  Cap- 
tain S.,  in  his  drunken  frolics.  The  directions  of  the  Cap- 
tain were  that,  whenever  he  should  become  so  drunk  as  to 
be  ungovernable,  Charles  should  seize  and  forcibly  confine 
him  till  sober,  so  as  to  prevent  his  violence ;  a  service  which 
the  superior  courage  and  muscular  power  of  the  noble  slave 
enabled  him  easily  to  perform. 

Charles  had  purchased  his  own  freedom  and  that  of  his 
eldest  daughter,  but  the  wife  and  remaining  children  were 
still  in  slavery.  He  hired  the  time  of  his  wife  for  a  stipu- 
lated sum,  besides  maintaining  for  the  owner  a  large  family 
of  fine,  healthy  slave-children,  with  their  annual  growth 
and  increase  in  value,  and  an  almost  annual  addition  to 
their  numbers.  I  have  even  paid  for  him,  out  of  his  own 
hard  earnings,  a  bill  of  some  magnitude  for  medical  attend- 
ance upon  his  wife  at  the  birth  of  a  child  born  into  slavery. 
Such  was  the  confidence  reposed  in  him  by  the  owner  of  his 
wife  and  children,  that  he  was  permitted  to  make  his  own 
contracts  and  receive  payment  of  their  hire ;  and  with  him 
I  contracted.  He  and  his  family  performed  their  part  well, 
and  contributed  no  little  to  the  comfort  of  our  large  house- 
hold. 

With  all  his  other  good  qualities  Charles  was  pious. 
Wicked  and  unfriendly  to  piety  as  had  been  the  influences 
and  associations  around  him,  he  had  for  years  been  a  con- 
sistent and  worthy  member  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church ;  and  at  that  time  he  held  a  regular  license  as  an 
exhorter.  In  all  the  ordinary  duties  of  his  station  he  was 
strictly  honest,  prompt,  and  reliable ;  not  wholly  free,  it  is 
true,  from  traits  almost  always  found  among  slaves,  and 
which  maybe  apologized  for  as  the  "  vitium  loci  non  hom- 
inis,"  but  true  to  the  standard  of  morals  which  he  believed 
correct.  I  could  confide  in  his  integrity.  He  exhibited 
great  attachment  to  Mrs.  Gr.,  under  whose  control  the 
domestics  were  mainly  placed ;  and,  with  great  seeming 
affection,  nursed  her  in  illness,  his  great  strength  enabling 


A   CENTENARIAN — ARMY   OFFICERS.  151 

him,  when  necessary,  to  raise  her  and  «carry  her  from  place 
to  place  in  his  arms  as  a  child.  He  had  our  confidence ;  we 
had  his  affection.  He  remained  with  us  to  the  last,  and,  I 
believe,  himself  left  soon  after.  At  our  parting  we  left  him 
suffused  in  tears.  Many  less  worthy  have  been  the  subjects 
of  higher  eulogy. 

Another  African,  of  rather  singular  character,  lived  near 
the  mission  ;  an  aged  woman,  having  the  appearance  of  a 
centenarian  at  least,  feeble,  emaciated,  and  almost  bowed 
together.  She  had  been  kidnapped  on  the  coast  of  Africa 
in  early  life,  and  had  spent  her  long  years  in  slavery.  Still 
nominally  the  property  of  an  Indian  near  by,  but  being  of 
no  further  value  she  was  turned  out  to  die.  I  found  her 
living  alone  in  a  rude  little  hut  or  pen  of  poles,  in  rear  of 
the  mission  premises.  With  all  her  sufferings  she  pre- 
sented an  affecting  illustration  of  the  workings  of  maternal 
affection.  "My  poor  boy  buried  here,"  said  she,  giving  a 
reason  for  her  attachment  to  the  dreary  spot. 

Business  engagements  often  called  me  to  Fort  Smith, 
where  I  always  found  a  welcome  and  hospitable  home  at 
the  large  hotel  of  Captain  Rogers,  an  old  citizen,  with 
whom  many  of  the  army  officers  made  their  quarters. 
With  several  of  these  I  had  an  interesting  acquaintance, 
and  from  the  hands  of  some  received  offices  of  kindness. 
About  this  time  disturbances  upon  our  southern  border  be- 
gan to  take  place.  General  Zachary  Taylor  was  changed 
from  his  position,  and  placed  in  command  of  the  southern 
division  of  the  army,  and  afterward,  at  the  head  of  the 
army,  against  Mexico.  His  place  was  supplied  by  General 
Arbuckle,  a  man  of  fine  military  appearance  and  affable 
manners,  but  too  far  advanced  in  life  for  active  service,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  superior  reputation,  as  an  officer,  already 
won  by  General  Taylor.  I  might  name  also  Major  Hun- 
ter,* Major  Hoffman,  and  Captain  Hoffman,  his  son,  both 

*  Now  Major-General  Hunter  of  the  army ;  a  courteous  and  dignified 
Christian  gentleman,  a  kind  and  warm-hearted  friend ;  one  that  may 
be  trusted  in  any  times. — 1863. 


152  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 

of  whom,  I  believe,  fell  in  Mexico  a  few  years  after.  Sev- 
eral of  these  gentlemen  were  members  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church. 

It  was  occasionally  my  privilege  to  spend  a  Sabbath 
there,  a'nd  I  always  found  the  officers  of  the  army  among 
the  most  regular  and  respectful  listeners,  and  liberal  in  their 
contributions  for  the  support  of  the  Gospel.  During  the 
absence  of  my  friend,  Rev.  J.  C.  Parker,  presiding  elder  of 
the  district,  in  attending  the  General  Conference  of  1844,  I, 
at  his  request,  took  charge  of  a  quarterly  meeting  at  Fort 
Smith.  It  was  soon  after  a  debate  in  Congress,  in  which  a 
certain  M.  C.,  from  my  own  State,  made  the  declaration 
that  the  principles  of  Christianity  were  "incompatible  with 
the  institutions  of  our  country."  In  lifting  the  ordinary 
quarterly  collection  for  the  preachers  upon  the  work,  I 
placed  the  appeal  to  the  audience  on  the  ground  that  Chris- 
tianity was  the  basis  of  our  free  institutions,  and  referred 
to  the  fact  that  but  a  solitary  member  was  found,  who  would 
rise  in  his  place  in  the  National  Legislature,  and  utter  such 
a  sentiment,  while  the  vote  in  the  case  stood  recorded  as  an 
avowed,  though  incidental,  acknowledgment  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  as  the  great  foundation  of  civil  liberty.  It 
seemed  to  take,  and  a  hearty  response  followed,  not,  indeed, 
in  the  form  of  audible  "Amens,"  but  in  gold  and  silver 
coins,  liberally  thrown  forth,  as  indicating  their  suffrages  in 
favor  of  the  Gospel ;  an  evidence  that  such  sentiments  find 
but  little  sympathy  among  our  army  officers,  with  a  view  to 
whose  vocation  they  seem  to  have  been  expressed. 

About  the  same  time  an  "  affair  of  honor  "  came  off  near 
to  us ;  not  among  savages,  who  are  never  guilty  of  such 
brutality ;  not  among  army  officers,  who  are  supposed  to  be 
most  subservient  to  the  vile  code ;  but  between  two  gentle- 
men of  the  civil  list  from  below  the  State  line,  one  of  them 
since  in  high  office,  who  came  up  into  the  Indian  country, 
and  deliberately  shot  at  each  other — thus  affording  to  the 
natives  a  gratuitous  exhibition  of  the  blessings  of  civiliza- 
tion, but  carefully  retiring  below  the  line  again  before  the 


CLOSE  OF  TERM.  153 

process  of  Cherokee  law  could  reach  them.  A  blarneying 
son  of  the  Emerald  Isle,  with  whom  I  often  ferried,  had 
been  employed  to  transport  the  party  to  the  place  of  ren- 
counter. Pat  was  a  generous,  kind-hearted  fellow,  and 
afterward  entertained  me  with  an  account  of  his  magnan- 
imous efforts  for  a  reconciliation  while  he  had  them  on  his 
boat.  "I  offered, "  said  he,  "to  give  up  all  my  ferriage, 
and  take  the  whole  company  back  free  of  charge,  if  they 
would  only  give  it  up  and  make  friends." 

The  first  term  of  our  school  closed  on  the  24th  of  July, 
by  a  public  examination,  in  presence  of  the  United  States 
Agent,  and  such  of  the  authorities  of  the  Nation,  and  other 
persons,  as  chose  to  attend.  The  students  sustained  them- 
selves well,  and  dispersed  to  their  homes  to  spend  a  vacation 
during  the  Summer  months,  previous  to  the  commencement 
of  the  regular  Fall  term. 

As  some  evidence  of  the  reputation  of  our  school,  it  may 
be  stated  that  applications  were  made  for  the  reception  of 
\vhite  pupils  from  some  of  the  best  families  below  the  State 
line ;  but  our  organization  forbade  it. 

Our  Winters  at  Fort  Coffee  were  bland  and  fine ;  the 
Summers  were  long,  warm,  and  dry.  All  laborious  busi- 
ness was  suspended  for  some  two  months,  in  the  heat  of 
Summer.  The  thermometer,  much  of  the  time,  stood  at 
over  one  hundred  in  the  shade,  and  not  unfrequently,  at  the 
hour  of  retirement  in  the  evening,  was  at  ninety  in  our 
chamber. 


154  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

EXCURSIONS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

THE  vacation  season  was  spent  necessarily  with  as  little 
exertion  and  exposure  to  the  sun  as  possible.  Not  only 
were  our  pupils  dismissed  to  their  homes,  hut  all  the  em- 
ployes of  the  establishment  were  discharged,  except  one 
colored  family,  and  a  single  man  to  look  after  the  teams. 
All  active  employment  was  suspended,  and  much  of  the 
traveling  done  at  unusual  hours.  Brother  Benson  and  my- 
self availed  ourselves  of  the  leisure  to  make  occasional  trips, 
alternately,  to  various  points  in  the  State,  and  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  Indian  country. 

We  traveled  much  alone,  and  always  unarmed,  though 
the  custom  of  the  country  was  to  the  contrary.  The  front- 
ier was  infested  with  robbers  and  cut-throats.  Major  A. 
once  said  to  me,  "I  not  only  go  armed,  but  I  never  suffer 
any  man  to  pass  me  on  my  left  side."  Robberies  and  mur- 
ders were  frequent.  My  business  necessarily  required  me  to 
carry  considerable  sums  of  money,  yet  I  never  failed  to 
travel  when  and  where  duty  or  inclination  led  me.  In  a 
single  case  only,  at  the  suggestion  of  brother  B.,  stated  trips 
on  certain  days  of  the  week,  over  a  particular  road,  were 
discontinued,  from  the  supposition  that  our  regularity,  and 
a  knowledge  of  the  fact  of  our  carrying  funds,  might  render 
us  rather  a  tempting  mark.  At  our  home  we  kept  arms. 

During  the  vacation  we  were  left  comparatively  unpro- 
tected. The  smallness  of  our  number ;  our  contiguity  to 
the  Cherokees,  among  whom  wrere  many  scenes  of  violence ; 
the  suspicious  white  men  prowling  around ;  all  conspired 
to  place  us  on  our  guard.  Once  we  had  reason  to  believe 
that  an  actual  attempt  had  been  made.  For  a  length  of 


DARDANELLE   CAMP   MEETING.  155 

time  I  slept  with  arms  at  my  head ;  and  additional  means 
of  defense  were  placed  in  other  hands,  with  cautions  not  to 
use  them  except  in  case  of  actual  necessity.  One  incident  I 
shall  never  forget,  from  its  pleasant  termination.  Seated  with 
Mrs.  G.,  upon  a  Summer  evening,  on  a  porch  in  the  rear  of 
our  dwelling,  we  saw  a  canoe  loaded  with  Indians  gliding 
down  the  current  of  the  Arkansas,  and  approaching  our 
place  in  a  suspicious  manner,  as  we  thought,  till  the  bluff 
concealed  them  from  our  view.  The  rifle  was  taken  down, 
fired,  reloaded,  and  placed  conveniently  for  quick  action. 
Some  time  was  spent  in  waiting  and  listening.  At  length 
we  heard  on  the  opposite  shore  a  voice,  as  of  one  giving 
out  the  lines  of  a  hymn,  followed  by  united  voices  in  sing- 
ing, and  the  same  process  repeated  as  through  the  verses  of 
the  hymn,  after  the  manner  of  our  own  Church ;  then  fol- 
lowed the  voice  of  one  apparently  leading  in  earnest  prayer. 
I  said  to  my  wife,  "  We  have  nothing  to  fear,  they  are  con- 
verted Indians."  They  had  encamped  for  the  night,  and 
were  holding  their  devotions.  We  laid  us  down  and  slept 
without  apprehension. 

Early  in  September  of  this  year,  it  was  my  privilege  to  at- 
tend a  camp  meeting  upon  Shoal  Creek,  in  the  interior  of  the 
State  of  Arkansas,  within  the  bounds  of  Dardanelle  circuit. 
It  was  held  under  the  superintendence  of  Rev.  J.  C.  Parker, 
presiding  elder  of  the  district,  an  esteemed  friend,  of  whom 
I  have  several  times  had  occasion  to  speak.  Though  com- 
paratively young,  he  had  attained  an  enviable  position  in  his 
Conference,  being  recognized  as  their  leading  member ;  had 
served  in  the  General  Conference  of  1844  ;  co-operated  with 
the  South  through  the  preliminaries  of  separation,  and  im- 
mediately after  located,  in  the  prime  of  life,  popularity,  and 
usefulness.  His  reasons  I  never  learned,  and  his  subsequent 
history  is  unknown  to  me.  His  intercourse  with  me  was 
that  of  a  brother  beloved,  free  and  confidential,  e^ejpt  upon 
the  subject  of  Church  division,  in  which  he  kept  his  own 
counsels.  At  this  camp  meeting  he  was  especially  attentive 
and  affectionate,  saying  that  he  wished  to  "  honor  me  all  he 


156  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

could,"  as  lie  "might  never  have  the  opportunity  again." 
Whether  this  referred  to  his  own  intended  movements,  or 
was  spoken  in  anticipation  of  mine,  I  have  never  known. 

I  was  accompanied  on  this  trip  by  my  excellent  young 
Indian  colleague,  Rev.  J.  Page ;  a  fine  traveling  companion, 
modest  and  pious,  but  full  of  innocent  glee.  The  days  of 
horseback  traveling  passed  pleasantly.  The  afternoon  of 
the  first  day  I  preached  on  Vache  Gras,  and  in  the  evening 
Page  preached  at  our  lodgings.  The  second  day  took  us  to 
Cane  Creek,  and  the  morning  of  the  third  brought  us  to  the 
encampment.  It  was  in  the  county  of  "Yell,"  named  for 
their  chivalrous  but  subsequently  ill-fated  Governor.  Not 
remote  were  the  Dardanelle  Mountains,  a  branch  of  the 
Ozarks.  The  scenery  was  fine,  the  season  pleasant,  congre- 
gations large,  and  order  good.  The  presence  and  labors  of 
an  Indian  preacher  tended  not  a  little  to  increase  the  interest. 
The  people  were  kind,  simple-hearted,  and  apparently  much 
engaged  in  religion.  The  Divine  presence  and  power  were 
manifested  in  no  small  degree. 

During  much  of  the  time  the  quarterly  conference  was 
employed  in  adjusting  the  preliminaries  of  Church  division. 
To  none  of  these  scenes,  there  or  elsewhere,  was  I  ever 
invited.  As  a  result,  a  larger  share  of  pulpit  labor  devolved 
on  me,  and  I  had  full  leisure  to  enjoy  the  religious  exercises. 
Some  incidents  of  interest  occurred,  one  of  which,  deeply 
affecting  in  itself,  proved  tragical  in  its  end. 

At  an  early  stage  of  the  meeting,  while  in  the  pulpit,  my 
attention  was  arrested  by  the  appearance  of  one  whose 
entire  contour  and  bearing  marked  him  as  superior  to  the 
masses  around  him.  Large,  portly,  and  commanding  in 
person ;  an  unassuming  and  seemingly  devout  worshiper ; 
in  him  was  seen  the  true  dignity  of  the  Southern  gentleman, 
without  the  affected  hauteur  so  often  put  on.  At  the  close 
of  service  he  approached  the  stand,  and  I  was  introduced 
to  Judge  C.,  of  a  Virginia  family  of  that  name,  part  of 
whom  are  early  and  prominent  residents  of  the  State  of 
Indiana.  I  found  him  to  be  what  his  appearance  indicated, 


TRAGICAL    CAMP    MEETING   SCENE.  157 

with  social  qualities  that  adorned  the  whole  character.     Days 
passed ;   the  people  prayed ;   the  Word  had  effect,  and  the 
interest  deepened  and  widened.     Many  were  under  powerful 
awakenings,  and  it  was  the  practice  of  the  praying  brethren, 
at  the  approach  of  the  hour  of  evening  service,  to  retire  to 
the   grove,  taking  with   them   such  as  were  known  to  he 
seekers  of  religion,  and  spend  a  solemn  hour  wrestling  with 
God  in  their  behalf  previous  to  the  signal  for  evening  wor- 
ship.    Among  them,  as  they  retired,  was  always  seen  tho 
Judge  with  his  own  brother  after  the  flesh,  a  man  of  mature 
years,   but  unconverted  and   hitherto   impenitent.     Deeply 
concerned  for  his  spiritual  welfare,  the  Judge  had  prevailed 
on  him  to  accompany  them  to  these  scenes  of  prayer,  and 
there  he  wrestled  with  him  and  with  God  for  him,  with  an 
intensity  amounting  to  agony.     So  it  passed  till  my  de- 
parture, the  meeting  being  left  still  in  progress.     Days,  per- 
haps weeks,  elapsed  after  my  return.     One  day  I  met,  in 
traveling,  one  who  asked  me,  "Have  you  heard  of  the  death 
of  Judge  C.  ?"     The  question  fell  upon  my  ears  with  pierc- 
ing sadness.     In  one  of  these  seasons  of  prayer  with  that 
loved  brother,  his  earnestness  rose  so  high  that,  in  the  agony 
of  exertion,  a  bloodvessel  was  ruptured,  and  death  ensued. 
His  happy  spirit  passed  away  from  among  the  shouts  of 
the  redeemed  below,  to  a  mansion  in  the  heavenly  home. 
Never  can  I  forget  the  scenes  of  Dardanelle  camp  meeting. 
Not  long  after  I  attended  an  Indian  camp  meeting  on 
James's  Fork,  among  the  Choctaws.     It  requires  but  little 
effort  for  Indians  to  prepare  for  a  camp  meeting,  so  little 
deviation  being  required  from  their  ordinary  mode  of  life. 
All  that  is  needed  is  to  pack  the  ponies  with  blankets  and  a 
little  simple  food,  such  as  they  usually  carry  in  traveling, 
mount  and  make  their  way  to  the  appointed  spot,  unload 
under  the  shade  of  a  tree  of  their  own  selection,  hopple  the 
ponies  and  turn  them  loose,  strike  a  camp-fire  and  make 
themselves  at  home.     And  so  accustomed  were  we  to  habits 
almost  similar  that  we  easily  adapted  ourselves  to  circum- 
stances.    While  our  good  brethren  and  sisters  in  the  States 


158  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

have  such  terrible  apprehensions  of  the  effects  of  exposure 
to  the  "night  air,"  and  seem  to  think  that  a  great  feat  has 
been  performed  by  spending  a  week  "  in  the  woods,"  though 
in  close  tents  with  stoves,  beds,  curtains,  carpets,  and  all 
the  surroundings  of  home  comfort,  we  have  learned  to 
enjoy  the  refreshing  coolness  of  the  night,  whether  in  the 
employment  of  public  worship,  or  sleeping  securely  in  the 
open  air  with  the  canopy  of  heaven  for  our  covering,  and 
in  no  one  instance  have  I  known  health  to  suffer  as  a  result. 
This  camp  meeting,  however,  was  thinly  attended,  and  no 
very  marked  results  followed,  our  working  force  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Nation  being  too  small  for  a  successful 
meeting  of  the  kind. 

In  one  of  my  frequent  excursions  down  into  the  State,  I 
met  with  an  incident  strikingly  illustrative  of  the  great 
folly  of  deferring  a  preparation  for  death,  temporally  or 
spiritually,  to  the  last  hour.  On  my  way  to  the  town  of 

,  where  I  was  to  spend  a  Sabbath,  I  called  at  the  house 

of  Colonel ,  an  acquaintance,  a  man  of  standing  and 

influence,  but  with  no  pretensions  to  religion.  I  found 
him  suddenly  indisposed,  resting  on  a  pallet  on  the  floor, 
but  without  any  alarming  symptoms.  I  passed  on.  The 
next  day  was  the  Sabbath ;  the  public  services  of  the 
sanctuary  were  almost  gone  through ;  the  closing  prayer 
was  being  made ;  we  were  upon  our  knees  in  the  pulpit, 
when  a  messenger  entered  in  haste,  walked  down  the  aisle, 
and,  without  waiting  for  the  close  of  the  prayer,  approached 

me  saying,   "Colonel  is  dying;    they  want   you    to 

come  and  see  him."  Promptly  obeying  the  summons,  I 
hastened  to  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  a  boat  was  in 
waiting  to  take  me  over  to  his  residence.  Here  I  found  my 

friend,  Judge ,  an  attorney  of  the  place,  who  had  been 

sent  for  to  write  his  will.  Here  we  were,  both  in  the  same 
boat ;  the  lawyer  going  to  wind  up  the  temporal  concerns 
of  the  dying  man,  and  the  minister  to  pray*  with  him  and 
point  his  dying  eye  to  Christ ;  all  the  interests  of  time  and 
eternity  crowded  into  a  brief  space,  and  that  an  hour  of 


KILLING   AN   INDIAN.  159 

pain,  debility,  and  trembling  agitation.  O,  what  a  scene ! 
Arrived  at  the  place,  the  "  tender  mercies  "  of  the  physician 
turned  us  both  out  of  doors.  "Don't  excite  him  ;  let  him 
alone ;  he  will  get  well,"  were  the  words  that  prevailed. 
We  returned.  I  recrossed  the  river,  musing  upon  the  lesson. 
The  Sabbath  closed.  Morning  came.  I  again  passed  and 
found  a  mournful  group  preparing  for  the  obsequies.  The 
spirit  had  fled. 

An  incident  occurring  near  to  us  may  serve  to  illustrate 
the  rude  contacts  of  frontier  life.  I  have  before  had  occa- 
sion to  mention  an  extensive  trading-house,  kept  within  a 
few  miles  of  our  station  by  an  Eastern  gentleman,  to  whose 
amiable  and  excellent  character  I  have  already  paid  a  trib- 
ute, but  who,  in  this  connection,  shall  be  nameless.  He 
was  a  man  rather  under  the  medium  size,  but  of  extraordi- 
nary muscular  power  and  activity,  with  all  the  personal 
courage  requisite  for  frontier  life,  but,  at  the  same  time,  of 
soft,  gentle,  sensitive  mold  ;  altogether  of  too  fine  a  texture 
for  the  rough  scenes  to  which  his  position  exposed  him. 
On  the  road,  between  our  place  and  the  trading-house,  lived 
a  large,  rugged,  athletic  fellow,  with  just  Indian  blood 
enough  to  claim  Indian  privileges  and  exemption  from 
punishment  for  his  rude  and  insolent  conduct ;  generally  a 
far  worse  class  than  the  real  Indians.  He  had  threatened 
trouble  to  us ;  and  the  authorities  of  the  Nation  had  pro- 
posed to  interfere  in  our  protection  ;  but  supposing  that  I 
could  manage  him  myself,  I  desired  them  to  let  him  alone, 
which  they  accordingly  did.  On  one  occasion,  going  to  the 
trading-house,  I  found  my  friend,  the  proprietor,  in  deep 

mental    affliction.     He   had    killed  y.     The   man   in  a 

rage,  perhaps  partially  drunk,  had  called  in  the  store  for  a 
butcher-knife  to  use  in  a  fight  with  some  other  Indians 
near.  It  was,  of  course,  refused.  Enraged  at  the  refusal 
he  leaped  the  counter,  and  was  about  to  take  a  knife  by 
force.  The  merchant,  though  greatly  his  inferior  in  size, 
seized  him,  drew  him  over  the  counter,  and  thrust  him  out 
of  doors,  striking  him  in  the  struggle  several  times  with  his 


160  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

fist.  The  man  went  home,  took  his  bed,  and  died  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  His  powerful  arm,  under  the  influence  of  ex- 
citement, had  dealt  blows  of  the  force  of  which  he  was 
unconscious ;  and  which,  upon  a  system  already  poisoned 
by  liquor,  proved  fatal.  The  circumstances  precluded  all 
censure.  Still  the  thought  that  his  hand  had  slain  a  fellow- 
being  preyed  fearfully  upon  his  kind  and  sensitive  nature. 
At  his  desire  I  went  to  the  cabin  of  the  family,  where  the 
corpse  was  still  lying,  and  conversed  with  the  wife  of  the 
dead  man,  she  being  a  white  woman.  She  complained  bit- 
terly of  the  alleged  murder  of  her  husband.  I  advised  her, 
knowing  that  she  would  gain  little  sympathy  from  others, 

to  keep  quiet  and  let  Mr. alone  ;  intimating  to  her  that, 

from  his  present  feeling  and  his  well-known  generosity,  she 
would  gain  by  such  a  course,  while  by  a  different  one  she 
would  repel  him,  and  deprive  herself  of  his  needed  aid.  I 

returned.     Mr. made  all  arrangements  for  the  burial 

at  his  own  expense,  and  the  woman,  profiting  by  my  hint, 
played  a  bold  game  upon  the  tender  feelings  of  my  friend, 
making  the  occurrence  a  source  of  revenue  as  long  as  she 
had  access  to  him. 


SLAVERY   AMONG   INDIANS.  161 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

INDIAN    TRAITS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

SOME  further  particulars  respecting  Indian  character  and 
habits  may  find  a  place  here.  And  it  will  be  borne  in  mind 
that  our  observations  are  still  mainly  confined  to  southern 
Indians.  The  more  northern  tribes  will  have  a  notice  in  a 
subsequent  part  of  our  volume. 

One  leading  sentiment  I  will  not  omit — the  connection 
always  kept  up  in  their  minds  between  intellectual  and 
moral,  improvement.  Education  with  them  is  invariably 
regarded  as  leading  to  civilization,  morals,  and  Christian- 
ity. Hence  they  are  received  or  rejected  together.  They 
have  not  learned  the  infidel  notion  of  the  opposition  of  the 
one  to  the  other,  or  even  of  the  existence  of  the  one  separate 
from  the  other.  What  God  has  "joined  together"  they  do 
not  seek  to  "  put  asunder."  And  all  these  they  expect  to 
receive  through  the  efforts  of  Christian  missionaries.  By 
no  other  hand  has  the  tender  of  educational  aid  been  made 
to  them.  A  single  instance,  perhaps,  only  can  be  found 
upon  the  continent  of  an  Indian  school  not  under  religious 
control  and  management,  and  that  soon  died  away ;  an  ex- 
periment of  the  United  States  Government,  which  they 
have  not  seen  fit  to  repeat. 

I  have  several  times  referred  to  the  existence  of  slavery 
among  the  southern  Indians.  Living  within  the  bounds  of 
slave  States  previous  to  their  removal  west,  some  of  them 
were  already  the  owners  of  slaves ;  and  some  of  the  tribes, 
especially  the  Chickasaws,  made  large  investments  in  slave 
property  out  of  the  funds  paid  them  by  the  Government  at 

the  time  of  their  emigration.     The  Choctaws  and  Cherokccs 

14 


162  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

had  a  considerable  number  of  slaves,  and  a  few  were  held 
by  the  Creeks. 

The  most  extensive  slave-owners  were  found  among  the 
"half-breeds" — a  general  term  for  mixed  bloods  in  all  pro- 
portions— some  of  whom  were  wealthy.  These  were  not 
unfrequently  hard  masters,  exacting  labor  with  rigor  and 
punishing  with  severity.  With  this  exception,  Indians  are 
generally  indulgent  masters.  Having  no  systematic  labors 
themselves,  they  exact  none  from  their  slaves.  When  the 
owners  are  straitened  for  provision,  they  suffer  with  them, 
and  when  there  is  plenty  they  enjoy  their  full  share.  Some- 
times, in  a  fit  of  rage  or  a  drunken  frolic,  an  Indian  may 
wound  or  even  kill  his  slave ;  but  I  have  never  heard  of  a 
case  of  cool,  deliberate  punishment  of  a  slave  by  a  full- 
blood  Indian. 

The  superior  intelligence  and  information  of  the  slave 
over  his  Indian  master  and  family  often  gives  him  quite  a 
prominence.  He  only  speaks  English.  He  is  the  inter- 
preter, manages  the  trading,  entertains  the  white  guests, 
does  the  honors  of  the  house,  and,  in  short,  is  the  factotum 
of  the  establishment.  I  knew  a  family  of  slaves  that  act- 
ually took  care  of  their  owners,  a  set  of  minor  orphan 
children,  cultivated  the  farm,  reared  the  family,  and  pro- 
vided for  their  wants  with  all  apparent  kindness.  One 
might  have  thought  that  the  case  was  reversed,  and  that  the 
Indians  were  owned  by  the  negroes.  Many  'of  the  slave 
women  were  excellent  cooks,  and  contributed  greatly  to 
the  comfort  of  the  family  and  of  guests  by  their  prepara- 
tion of  food. 

Indian  masters  are  quite  as  jealous  of  their  "rights" 
and  quite  as  sensitive  to  the  reproach  of  "abolitionism" 
as  their  civilized  neighbors.  Like  them,  too,  they  have 
laws  against  the  instruction  of  slaves.  I  once  myself,  un- 
wittingly, incurred  the  penalty.  At  the  close  of  a  sermon 
to  a  mixed  audience  of  whites,  blacks,  Indians,  and  quad- 
roons, at  a  certain  place,  I  distributed  tracts.  Some  fell 
into  the  hands  of  slaves.  In  due  time  I  was  waited  upon 


NATIONAL   DISH — SPORTS  AND   GAMES.  163 

by  a  functionary  of  their  Government,  who  gravely  in- 
formed me  that  I  had  violated  the  laws  of  the  Nation.  In 
compassion,  however,  as  I  suppose,  to  my  "  ignorantia 
legis,"  they  doffed  the  "neminem  excitsat,"  and  let  me 
pass — a  stretch  of  mercy  that  might  not  now  be  exercised, 
with  the  examples  of  "civilized  life"  before  them. 

I  have  spoken  of  their  food  as  being  derived  mainly  from 
the  flesh  of  cattle,  owned  by  them  in  large  numbers.  When 
they  can,  they  purchase  flour,  coffee,  sugar,  etc.  There  is 
one  prevailing  article  of  diet  found  among  all  the  tribes  of 
southern  Indians,  and  highly  relished  by  them.  The  Choc- 
taws  call  it  "tah-ful-lah,"  the  Cherokees  "con-c-ha-na," 
and  the  Creeks  "saf-ka."  It  is  the  Indian  corn,  pounded 
in  a  mortar  by  the  women,  after  the  manner  of  our  hominy, 
and  boiled,  leaving  a  large  quantity  of  the  liquid  with  it. 
To  this  is  added  a  small  portion  of  lye,  and  it  is  set  away 
in  a  vessel  till  it  undergoes  a  fermentation,  after  which  it  is 
ready  for  use.  With  the  Choctaws  it  may  be  called  a 
"national  dish."  The  most  approved  style  of  eating  it  is 
from  a  large,  common  bowl,  with  a  buffalo-horn  spoon, 
which  is  passed  from  hand  to  hand  in  a  social  manner.  No 
white  man  is  considered  as  having  graduated  to  Choctaw 
honors  and  immunities  till  he  has  learned  to  eat  tah-ful-lah. 
I  was  a  slow  learner  in  this  department. 

All  Indian  tribes  are  greatly  addicted  to  sports  and 
games.  I  can  not  furnish  a  better  view  of  these  than  by 
extracting  from  a  letter  of  my  own,  dated  July  18,  1844, 
being  one  of  a  series  published  in  a  weekly  journal  in  one 
of  the  States : 

"After  all  the  advancement  made  by  the  principal  tribes 
of  southern  Indians,  there  are  still  some  of  their  rude  and 
barbarous  customs  to  which  they  adhere  with  great  tenacity, 
especially  their  ancient  sports,  to  which  the  more  unen- 
lightened, comprising  the  mass  of  the  population,  are  ar- 
dently attached.  Formerly  these  sports  were  mere  athletic 
exercises.  The  contest  was  for  victory  only,  and  with  this 
the  successful  party  was  content.  They  were  then  compar- 


164  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

atively  harmless.  But  intercourse  with  the  whites  has  con- 
taminated them  in  this,  as  in  most  other  respects.  Their 
presence  and  the  interest  taken  by  them  excite  the  Indians, 
and  urge  them  on  to  new  forms  of  vice.  Betting  is  extens- 
ively practiced.  Cattle,  ponies,  or  any  thing  else  which 
they  possess,  are  staked  upon  the  issue.  Drinking  and 
other  attendant  vices  prevail,  and  the  whole  scene  is  made 
to  resemble  the  race-course  as  patronized  by  their  '  enlight- 
ened '  white  neighbors. 

"The  leading  and  favorite  sport  of  the  Choctaws  is  the 
ball-play.  Having  never  witnessed  one,  I  extract  the  fol- 
lowing from  a  description  given  by  the  late  commandant 
of  the  United  States  forces  at  this  place.  He  says  :  '  It  is 
rough  and  wild.  The  combatants  engage  in  the  contest 
entirely  naked,  except  the  flap.  The  interest  and  zeal  which 
the  natives  of  the  forest  take  in  the  play  frequently  attract 
ladies  as  spectators  ;  sometimes,  however,  those  of  extreme 
delicacy  may  have  occasion  to  blush.  It  is  considered  some- 
thing of  a  national  feast,  and  is  often  conducted  by  some 
of  the  leading  captains  with  great  regularity  and  order. 
Preparatory  to  commencing  operations  an  extensive  plain 
is  selected,  on  one  side  of  which  two  poles  are  erected  about 
twenty  feet  high  and  placed  about  six  inches  apart  at  the 
ground,  diverging  in  such  manner  as  to  be  about  two  feet 
apart  at  the  top.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  plain,  or 
about  two  hundred  yards  distant,  two  other  poles  are  placed 
in  the  same  manner.  The  parties  to  the  contest  varying  in 
number  as  may  be  agreed  upon,  meet  in  the  center,  where  a 
ball  is  thrown  up  from  two  sticks  about  two  feet  long,  with 
a  small  netting  or  basket-work  at  the  end,  and  the  strife 
commences.  This  consists  in  each  party  keeping  the  ball 
on  their  own  side  of  the  center,  and  passing  it  the  greatest 
number  of  times  between  the  poles  of  the  side  to  which  they 
belong.  The  excitement  and  strife  become  very  great. 
Men  are  often  hurt  and  sometimes  killed.  It  sometimes 
requires  more  than  a  day  to  determine  the  contest.  Bets 
usually  run  very  high  !' 


BALL-PLAYS — PARRICIDE.  165 

"This  game  seems  not  unknown  to  the  surrounding 
Nations.  The  same  writer  says  :  '  It  was  formerly  resorted 
to  to  settle  contested  points  of  difference.  A  very  serious 
difficulty  which  arose  between  the  Cherokees  and  Creeks, 
about  thirty  years  ago,  was  settled  in  that  manner,  and  the 
horrors  of  war  prevented  !' 

"This  is  the  season  of  the  year  for  these  sports.  They 
frequently  interfere  with  and  sometimes  entirely  break  up 
our  preaching  appointments  in  this  part  of  the  Nation.  It 
is  in  vain  to  attempt  to  draw  attention  to  any  thing  else  at 
or  about  the  time.  Last  year  a  camp  meeting  upon  this 
mission  was  prevented  entirely  in  this  manner.  There  has 
recently  been  a  great  contest  of  this  kind  in  the  south  of  the 
Nation  between  the  Puch-she-nub-bee  and  Puch-ma-ta-ha 
districts.  One  man  was  shot  and  several  stabbed,  though, 
I  believe,  not  mortally.  Several  games  have  come  off  in 
this  (Me-shu-la-tub-bee)  district,  and  others  are  yet  pending. 

••  An  Indian,  one  of  our  nearest  neighbors,  returning 
from  a  play  recently  held  near  the  Council-House  at  Yak- 
ni-a-chuk-ma,  was  murdered  by  his  own  family.  His  son 
has  been  tried  and  convicted,  but  has  obtained  a  new  hear- 
ing ;  meanwhile  he  is  left  at  perfect  liberty.  A  full-blood 
Choctaw,  it  is  said,  never  flees  to  evade  a  trial  or  punish- 
ment, but  will  at  the  day  appointed  punctually  attend  his 
trial ;  or  if  already  convicted  and  sentenced,  the  place  of 
execution  ;  unless,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  he,  in  the  mean 
time,  becomes  his  own  executioner.  The  half-breeds,  or 
those  who  have  some  '  white  man's  blood,'  are  more  likely 
to  flee  from  justice." 

The  ball -pi  ay  was  sometimes  resorted  to  in  the  rude 
district  in  which  we  lived  to  secure  an  attendance  at  courts 
and  other  places  of  necessary  public  business.  So  little 
interest  was  felt  by  the  natives  and  even  by  the  officials 
of  our  section  in  the  administration  of  public  affairs,  that  a 
call  to  duties  of  that  character  was  very  little  regarded. 
But  the  summons  to  a  ball-play  called  out  the  posse  comi- 
tatus ;  and,  while  there,  the  opportunity  was  incidentally 


166  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

afforded  for  holding  of  courts,  trying  criminals,  and  other 
public  business. 

A  barbarous  scene  occurred  the  same  season,  on  one  of 
these  occasions,  at  the  Council-Ground  of  our  district, 
growing  out  of  the  parricide  already  referred  to.  A  large, 
athletic,  and  rather  desperate  Indian,  whose  name  I  have 
forgotten,  had,  it  was  said,  interfered  in  behalf  of  his  rela- 
tive, the  murderer  of  his  own  father.  Folsom,  then  the 
District  Chief,  a  rude,  uncultivated  Indian,  had,  without 
authority,  given  directions  to  Captain  William  Riddle,  the 
United  States  interpreter,  to  kill  this  fellow  should  he  inter- 
fere at  the  approaching  trial.  Riddle  and  this  man  had  a 
personal  grudge  against  each  other,  and  Riddle,  though  a 
brave  man,  feared  that  he  should  be  privately  assassinated. 
Accordingly  he  sought  an  occasion,  got  the  other  excited, 
and  under  color  of  the  order  of  the  Chief  shot  him.  The 
other  fell,  but,  rising  to  a  sitting  posture,  called  for  his  gun. 
Several  other  balls  were  fired  through  him  by  Riddle's 
friends,  and,  to  end  the  matter,  even  after  he  was  lying 
prostrate,  the  Judge  of  their  court  discharged  a  ball  through 
his  head.  Such  is  savage  life,  even  with  forms  of  law  and 
some  approach  to  civilization.  A  shock  was  produced  by 
our  contiguity  to  such  scenes.  Little  did  we  then  dream 
that,  within  a  score  of  years  to  come,  scenes  not  less  horrid 
would  be  enacted  by  the  hands  of  white  men  all  over  our 
land,  and  pass  with  impunity,  if  not  the  implied  sanction 
of  public  sentiment.  Yet  such  is  the  case.  As  an  Ameri- 
can citizen  I  blush  to  acknowledge  it. 

Riddle  was,  in  the  main,  a'  good,  reliable  Indian,  quiet 
and  inoffensive  in  his  character ;  but  he  was  in  fear.  The 
Indians  have  no  jails,  no  recognizance  to  keep  the  peace, 
and  the  only  safety  is  to  get  the  start  by  killing  the  ad- 
versary first.  Subsequently,  as  will  be  seen,  when  Riddle 
died,  under  singular  circumstances,  the  Indians  regarded  it 
as  a  retributive  providence. 

In  another  letter  of  the  same  series,  dated  September  26th, 
I  wrote  as  follows :  "We  have  had  an  unusual  number  of 


DEUNKENNESS.  167 

violent  deaths  in  this  part  of  the  Nation.  Three  successive 
ball-plays  at  one  place  have  ended  each  with  the  death  of  a 
man.  A  youth,  resident  in  a  family  near  us,  a  few  days 
since,  upon  some  slight  affront  deliberately  shot  himself. 
Life  is  but  little  valued  by  an  Indian,  in  himself  or  in 
another.  Two  white  men  also  have  recently  been  murdered 
and  robbed  at  different  times  and  places,  while  passing 
through  the  Nation  ;  in  both  cases,  it  is  supposed,  by  whites 
or  negroes.  Instances  rarely,  if  ever,  occur  of  murder  and 
robbery  by  a  Choctaw." 

The  Choctaws  have  no  laws  for  the  collection  of  debts. 
Even  the  whites  resident  in  these  territories  have  no  process 
for  collecting  debts  one  of  another.  All  is  done  upon 
honor.  And  no  where  have  I  seen  personal  honor  more 
sacredly  regarded  in  business  transactions  than  here.  I  can 
not  gravely  advocate,  as  some  have  done,  the  repeal  of  all 
laws  for  enforcing  the  payment  of  debts ;  but  certainly  it 
would  be  better,  morally  and  financially,  than  the  system  of 
fraudulent  conveyancing,  dishonest  bankruptcy,  and  villainy 
in  various  forms,  so  effectually  provided  for  and  sheltered 
by  the  laws  of  some  of  the  States. 

The  destructive  effect  of  ardent  spirits  meets  the  eye 
every-where.  This  will  be  the  case  so  long  as  the  laws  of 
contiguous  States  permit  or  sanction  the  border  traffic. 
Monsters  in  human  shape  are  found  perched  all  along  the 
line.  Desire  of  gain  is  t\e  motive  general!}  attributed,  but 
an  unrestrained  indulgence  of  fllertinism  is  probably  even 
more  operative.  Scenes  of  bloodshed  and  of  the  deepest 
moral  degradation  are  the  result.  Not  unfrequently  those 
that  escape  with  life  are  left  with  lasting  memorials  of  their 
drunken  carousals,  in  the  form  of  maimed  limbs,  lost  eyes, 
and  disfigured  persons.  An  instance  I  remember.  Travel- 
ing once  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  I  had  occasion  to 
call  at  an  Indian  cabin  by  the  way-side.  The  occupant 
limped  to  the  door  in  quite  a  crippled  condition,  saying  in 
broken  English  :  "  Fort  Smith — whisky — too  much — burn 
it."  All  was  explained.  He  had  been  to  Fort  Smith, 


168  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

where  he  had  obtained  liquor,  got  drunk,  fallen  into  the  fire 
and  been  badly  burned. 

A  "speck  of  war"  appeared  upon  our  borders  about  this 
time,  as  will  be  seen  by  another  extract  from  the  letter 
referred  to.  Speaking  of  the  Cherokees,  it  says:  "Their 
matters,  ten  days  since,  seemed  to  have  arrived  at  a  crisis. 
Their  warriors  on  both  sides  were  assembled  and  under 
arms,  and  the  women  and  children  were  beginning  to  flee. 
Some  Cherokee  families  crossed  the  river  and  encamped 
near  us,  seeking  a  refuge  from  the  expected  storm.  All, 
however,  has  passed,  for  the  present,  without  bloodshed. 

"Both  parties  have  had  their  delegations  at  Washington 
during  the  past  Winter,  headed  by  their  respective  Chiefs 
and  sustained  by  able  counsel.  The  result  is  the  appoint- 
ment of  an  able  board  of  commissioners  to  visit  the  country 
with  full  powers  to  make  a  final  adjustment  of  all  matters 
in  dispute.  It  is  said  that  the  commission  looks  to  a  divi- 
sion of  the  country  between  the  parties  if  found  necessary ; 
a  measure  that  would  be  highly  acceptable  to  the  minority, 
but  violently  resisted  by  Ross  and  his  adherents. 

"The  late  warlike  demonstrations  grew  out  of  an  attempt 
by  Rogers,  the  minority  Chief,  to  hold  a  council  with  his 
party  at  the  old  Council-Ground,  about  forty  miles  above 
this  place.  This  privilege  was  granted  them  by  the  late 
orders  of  the  Department,  and  the  opposite  party  were 
enjoined  not  to  molest  them.  Ross  is  absent  from  the 
country,  but  Lowrey,  the  BbondT^hief,  in  a  letter  to  Major 
Armstrong,  as  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs,  declared 
his  intention  forcibly  to  prevent  the  holding  of  the  Council, 
and  actually  assembled  his  men  for  that  purpose.  Rogers 
applied  for  a  United  States  force  to  protect  him  and  his 
adherents.  Through  the  intervention,  however,  of  Major 
Armstrong,  Rogers  was  induced,  though  very  reluctantly, 
to  postpone  the  assembling  of  his  Council  till  the  arrival  of 
the  commissioners,  who  are  expected  in  October.  Both 
parties  are  highly  exasperated,  and  should  a  drop  of  blood 
be  spilled,  it  is  difficult  to  predict  the  end," 


A  PREACHER  SWEARING.  169 

In  the  midst  of  the  excitement  we  were  amused  by  the 
appearance  at  our  place  of  a  little  negro  girl  from  one  of 
the  fugitive  families.  She  seemed  quite  alarmed,  and  all 
the  account  she  could  give  of  the  matter  was,  "  they  've 
spiled  the  Council."  But  these  scenes  are  now  buried  with 
the  past,  and  the  Cherokee  people  are  living  together  in 
peace. 

The  letter  continues  :  "The  Summer  has  been  exceedingly 
hot;  thermometer  from  100°  to  103°  in  the  shade.  Sick- 
ness prevails  through  the  country.  Many  of  the  citizens 
of  the  State,  below  us,  have  left  their  residences,  and  are 
encamped  at  the  mineral  springs  which  abound  in  Western 
Arkansas ;  quite  a  common  method  of  visiting  watering- 
places  in  this  region,"  and  perhaps  more  rational  and 
healthful  than  that  prevailing  among  the  fashionables  of  tho 
States  toward  sunrise. 

An  incident  illustrative  of  Indian  patience  and  sense  of 
Christian  propriety  I  will  not  omit.  A  certain  missionary, 
as  the  statement  has  it,  became  provoked  with  a  good 
Christian  Indian  for  some  trivial  trespass,  perhaps  unin- 
tentional. In  the  excitement  of  the  moment  he  scolded  the 
Indian  severely,  and  used  some  harsh  epithets.  The  Indian 
patiently  heard  him  through,  and  mildly  looking  him  in 
the  face,  replied  :  "My  brother,  what  make  you  swear  so  ?" 
How  often  is  so  near  an  approach  made  to  profanity  in  the 
language  of  professed  Christians,  not  to  say  ministers,  that 
it  requires  a  scholar  to  make  th^istinction  ! 

W 


170  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

CONFERENCE    T  R  I  P  — I  N  C  I  D  E  N  T  S  . 

AT  the  appointed  time  in  the  Fall  our  pupils  returned  in 
good  health  and  spirits  ;  were  re-clad  in  a  Winter  wardrobe  ; 
the  school  was  reopened,  and  the  Winter  term  commenced 
under  pleasant  and  promising  auspices.  The  health  of  our 
household  had  suffered  somewhat,  but  as  frosts  appeared 
disease,  in  the  main,  left  us.  Several  cases  of  intermittent 
disease  in  my  own  immediate  family  proved  obstinate,  and 
never  were  fully  removed  till  we  had  a  change  of  climate. 
The  appropriate  business  of  the  season  was  resumed  in  the 
several  departments,  and  the  wheels  of  our  machinery  began 
to  roll  on  again.  At  the  commencement  of  this  term  the 
labors  of  brother  Benson  were  lightened  by  the  employment 
of  MrrBrigham,  already  mentioned,  as  assistant  teacher. 

The  time  rolled  on  at  which  our  new  mission  Conference 
was  to  assemble.  Mr.  Brigham  was  placed  in  charge  pro 
tem^  and  arrangements  were  made  for  our  departure.  A 
few  days  previous  to  our  starting  we  were  visited  by  Eev. 
J.  M.  Steele,  then  in  charge  of  a  mission  on  Red  River, 
accompanied  by  two  native  preachers,  William  Ok-chi-ah 
and  Isaac  Chuk-ma-bee,  all  on  their  way  to  Conference, 
who  spent  a  Sabbath  with  us.  Chuck-ma-bee  was  a  plain, 
pious,  ordinary,  full-blood  Choctaw,  with  nothing  remark- 
able in  his  character.  Ok-chi-ah  had  traits  that  printed 
themselves  on  the  memory  and  on  the  heart ;  a  dear  man  of 
God,  never  to  be  forgotten.  He  was  a  half-breed ;  but  the 
Indian  predominated  in  his  character,  and  he  never  learned 
to  speak  English.  He  was  apparently  of  middle  years,  of 
slender  constitution,  pale  and  feeble  in  appearance;  soft, 
gentle,  and  bland  in  his  manners ;  warm  and  ardent  in  his 


OK-CHI-AH — ONE  LEFT   BY  THE   WAY.  171 

piety ;  with  gushing  sympathies  that  flowed  out  in  copious 
tears  when  stirred  by  pious  or  generous  emotion.  He  had, 
for  years,  been  engaged  in  preaching  the  Gospel  to  his  tribe. 
Never  shall  I  forget  the  closing  scene  of  our  Sabbath  even- 
ing service,  when,  after  having  in  his  own  language  preached 
in  a  most  feeling  and  pathetic  manner,  he  left  the  stand, 
and  with  eyes  overflowed  with  tears,  passed  around,  taking 
his  congregation  individually  by  the  hand.  Karely  have  I 
seen  in  any  human  countenance  so  much  of  heaven.  It 
seemed  as  if  he  had  a  presentiment  of  his  really  near  ap- 
proach to  the  heavenly  home,  and  regarded  this,  as  it  proved 
to  be,  a  final  parting.  He  was  thinly  clad  and  ill-prepared 
for  the  journey.  From  our  missionary-donation  stores  we 
fitted  him  out  with  comfortable  apparel  and  all  things 
needed  for  the  Conference  trip. 

On  the  morning  of  Monday,  October  21st,  we  were  early 
off  for  Tah-le-quah,  Cherokee  Nation,  the  appointed  seat  of 
our  Conference.  For  want  of  a  ferry-boat  at  Fort  Coffee, 
we  were  compelled  to  travel  by  the  way  of  Fort  Smith,  and 
cross  the  Arkansas  River  there.  Our  company  consisted  of 
brother  Steele,  the  two  Indian  preachers,  and  myself,  all  on 
horseback,  packed  with  provisions,  blankets,  etc.  At  Fort 
Smith  we  were  joined  by  brother  Benson,  who  had  preceded  us 
that  far.  Here,  by  the  kindness  of  my  friend  Major  Hunter 
of  the  army,  I  was  furnished  with  a  neat  chart  of  our  intended 
route,  penciled  for  our  use  by  his  own  skillful  hand.  We 
crossed  the  river,  entered  the  Cherokee  country,  and  struck  the 
trail  marked  out  by  our  chart  at  a  lively  gait ;  for  slow  trav- 
eling is  almost  unknown-  on  the  frontiers  and  western  plains. 

The  day  was  not  far  spent  when  we  found  that  our  brother 
Ok-chi-ah  was  physically  unable  for  the  journey.  Weary 
and  sick,  he  laid  himself  down  by  the  roadside  with  all  his 
characteristic  calmness  and  resignation  ;  and  great  doubts 
were  entertained  whether  he  would  be  able  to  reach  the  seat 
of  the  Conference  at  all  or  not.  Our  duties  urged  us  on. 
We  left  him  in  charge  of  Chuk-ma-bee,  divided  our  pro- 
visions with  them,  and  traveled  on. 


172  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

After  a  ride  of  some  fifty  miles  we  came  up  at  a  mission- 
ary station  of  the  American  Board,  called  Fairfield,  under 
the  care  of  Rev.  Dr.  Butler.  It  was  a  late  hour.  We  were 
strangers,  but  we  were  missionaries.  They  arose  from  their 
beds  and  gave  us  that  hearty  welcome  which  a  missionary 
knows  how  to  give  and  how  to  appreciate ;  and  the  good 
cheer  and  Christian  hospitality  of  the  place  were  no  small 
comfort  to  us  after  the  fatigues  of  the  day.  Here  we  found 
a  dense  Indian  population,  a  church  and  a  flourishing  school, 
with  good  mission  buildings  and  other  improvements. 

•  Another  day's  ride  brought  us  to  the  Council-Ground  at 
Tah-le-quah.  On  arriving  we  found  that  brother  B.  and 
myself  had  been  assigned  a  home  during  the  Conference  with 
Rev.  S.  A.  Worcester  at  Park  Hill,  a  station  of  the  Amer- 
ican Board  a  few  miles  distant,  visited  by  me  more  than  a 
year  before,  and  described  in  a  previous  chapter.  Here  again 
we  met  a  missionary  welcome  from  our  kind  host  and  his 
excellent  Christian  family.  I  have  before  spoken  of  Mr.  W. 
as  a  pious  and  talented  minister  of  the  Presbyterian  Church, 
the  son  of  an  aged  and  distinguished  New  England  divine. 
Nearly  or  quite  his  whole  ministerial  life  had  been  spent  in 
labors  among  the  Cherokees,  first  in  their  former  Eastern 
home,  and  then  following  their  fortunes  to  their  new  home 
in  the  West. 

But  a  new  fact  of  interest  soon  developed  itself  in  our 
temporary  associations.  I  remembered  the  circumstance  of 
the  imprisonment  of  certain  missionaries  in  Georgia  many 
years  previous,  and  in  the  course  of  conversation  I  accident- 
ally referred  to  it,  the  names  having  been  forgotten.  What 
was  our  surprise  to  learn  that  our  host,  Rev.  Mr.  Worcester, 
was  one  of  the  imprisoned  missionaries,  and  Rev.  Dr.  Butler, 
with  whom  we  had  passed  the  night  previous,  was  the 
other.  Before  us  were  the  men  who  had  endured  "bonds 
and  imprisonment"  for  the  Gospel.  I  felt  honored  with 
being  their  guest  on  mission  ground.  Of  course  we  an- 
ticipated a  rich  enjoyment  in  our  intercourse,  and  in  this 
we  were  not  disappointed. 


REVS.  WORCESTER  AND  BUTLER.        173 

At  the  first  opportunity  we  sought  of  our  reverend  host  a 
detail  of  the  circumstances  attending  the  affair,  which  he 
gave  in  a  modest  and  unostentatious  manner.  The  Chero- 
kees,  like  all  other  tribes,  were  fondly  attached  to  their 
native  homes  and  country  and  loth  to  leave  them.  Even 
after  arrangements  were  made  by  the  Government  for  their 
removal  they  still  lingered,  and  with  extreme  difficulty  were 
at  last  torn  aAvay. 

Eager,  however,  to  possess  their  lands,  the  whites  clam- 
ored for  their  removal.  It  was  supposed  that  one  strong 
bond  of  attachment  was  to  the  missionaries  and  their  relig- 
ious privileges.  The  missionaries  were  also  charged  with 
using  their  influence  against  the  removal.  A  law  was  passed 
by  the  Legislature  of  Georgia  about  the  year  1832  prohibit- 
ing all  missionaries,  under  penalty  of  imprisonment,  from 
laboring  among  the  Cherokees,  then  living  within  the  char- 
tered limits  of  the  State.  The  two  missionaries  named, 
with  a  third  of  whose  name  I  am  not  now  in  possession, 
refused  to  take  the  prescribed  oath  or  to  give  pledges  of  obe- 
dience to  an  act  which  they  deemed  unconstitutional  and 
unrighteous,  and  continued  their  labors  as  before.  They 
were  arrested,  convicted,  and  sentenced  to  the  State  peniten- 
tiary. The  Supreme  Court  reversed  the  decision,  but  in  de- 
fiance of  this  they  were  taken  to  the  State  Prison.  At  the 
door  a  pardon  was  offered  on  condition  of  a  promise  to  com- 
ply with  the  law.  One  of  the  three — the  mjritedly-forgotten 
name — accepted  the  terms ;  the  other  two,  Dr.  B.  and  Mr. 
W.,  entered  and  endured  an  imprisonment  of  fifteen  months. 
This  was  a  hard  trial  of  Christian  fortitude  to  themselves 
and  families,  but  it  was  triumphantly  sustained,  has  won  for 
them  a  high  esteem  in  this  world,  and  doubtless  adds  to  the 
luster  of  the  crown  they  now  wear.  Speaking  of  his  arrest, 
I  think  a  second  time,  having  returned  to  his  home  in  the 
limits  to  visit  a  dying  child,  torn  away  by  the  patrol  while 
the  child  was  in  its  last  moments  or  actually  a  corpse  un- 
buried,  "  Then,"  said  he,  "  for  the  first  time  my  wife  wept." 

The  desire  to  be  useful  in  the  prison  led  them  to  request 


174  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

to  be  separated ;  foregoing  the  satisfaction  of  each  other's 
society  that  they  might  labor  for  the  spiritual  good  of  their 
fellow-prisoners.  They  were  accordingly  placed  in  different 
apartments,  each  surrounded  by  a  large  number  of  fellow- 
convicts,  there  being  no  separate  cells.  Eternity  will  prob- 
ably exhibit  some  of  them  as  "stars"  in  their  "crown  of 
rejoicing."  At  first  they  were  treated  kindly ;  books  and 
stationery,  with  many  other  privileges,  were  allowed  them ; 
but,  upon  a  false  charge  of  conniving  at  an  attempt  of  the 
convicts  to  escape,  Mr.  W.  was  deprived  of  these  privileges 
and  treated  with  rigor.  This  was  probably  the  first  act  of 
public  religious  intolerance  to  excite  a  blush  upon  the  cheek 
of  patriotism  in  this  boasted  land  of  religious  toleration. 
Would  to  God  it  had  been  the  last ! 

This  was  a  lovely  mission  family.  Deprived  of  society, 
they  relied  upon  and  developed  other  resources  of  entertain- 
ment. Music,  vocal  and  instrumental,  was  cultivated.  De- 
votions were  lively  and  spiritual,  and  cheerful  piety  pervaded 
the  entire  household,  constituting  them  a  happy  family.  Mr. 
W.r  however,  in  the  midst  of  his  labors  and  domestic  enjoy- 
ments, "remembered  his  bonds."  A  drawer  in  his  private 
desk  containing  the  documents  relating  to  his  trial  and  im- 
prisonment was  familiarly  known  as  the  "Penitentiary 
Drawer,"  keeping  him  and.  them  in  minct  of  his  sufferings 
and  his  deliverance. 

While  passing  over  the  plains  in  the  Summer  of  1859,  on 
my  way  to  the  mining  regions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
looking  over  the  columns  of  a  paper  taken  with  me,  my  eye 
rested  upon  a  notice  of  the  death  of  Rev.  S.  A.  Worcester, 
at  the  mission  at  Park  Hill.  When  I  saw  him  he  was  in 
the  prime  and  vigor  of  manhood.  Dr.  Butler  was  then 
deeply  afflicted  with  asthma,  and  apparently  near  his  end.  I 
have  not  heard  of  him  since.  He  had  probably  long  pre- 
ceded his  fellow-prisoner  to  a  mansion  in  the  heavenly 
home. 

Here  fell  Boudinot,  a  noble  Indian,  noticed  in  a  previous 
chapter  as  having  been  assassinated  simultaneously  with 


MURDER  OF  BOUDINOT.  175 

Ridge,  the  father  and  son.  Aroused  and  decoyed  from  his 
dwelling  under  pretense  of  obtaining  medicine  for  a  sick 
person,  he  was  treacherously  murdered.  The  tree  was 
pointed  out  to  me  at  the  foot  of  which  he  fell.  He  was  a 
pious,  talented  Indian.  His  "  works  follow." 


176  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 


CHAPTER   XX. 

FIRST    INDIAN    MISSION    CONFERENCE. 

GREAT  changes  had  taken  place  at  Tah-le-quah  since  my 
visit  to  the  General  Council  held  there  in  June  of  the  pre- 
ceding year.  A  town  had  sprung  up  ;  a  good  brick  court- 
house was  erected  ;  a  printing-press  was  there,  sending  forth 
its  weekly  issues  of  the  "Cherokee  Advocate,"  with  various 
other  improvements.  John  Ross,  the  principal  Chief,  was 
absent,  but  daily  expected  with  a  fair  bride,  just  wedded,  in 
the  person  of  a  Quaker  lady,  of  Philadelphia.  It  was  un- 
derstood that  a  party  of  men  would  meet  him  at  the  line  to 
escort  him  into  the  Nation,  it  being  considered  unsafe  for 
him  to  travel  without  a  body-guard.  The  Commissioners 
appointed  at  Washington  to  settle  the  disputes  between  the 
two  parties  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  the  Nation  was  now 
quietly  awaiting  their  coming. 

The  seat  of  the  Conference  had  been  fixed  at  the  Council- 
Ground  at  Tah-le-quah.  In  consequence,  however,  of  the 
National  Council  and  Supreme  Court  both  being  in  session, 
and  the  public  buildings  being  occupied,  it  was  determined 
to  convene  at  Riley's  Chapel,  a  Methodist  meeting-house 
about  two  miles  distant.  On  the  morning  of  Wednesday, 
October  23d,  the  missionaries  of  all  the  tribes,  from  the 
Missouri  on  the  north  to  Red  River  on  the  south,  assembled 
for  the  purpose  of  organizing  the  Indian  Mission  Confer- 
ence. Bishop  Morris  appeared  and  took  the  chair.  Fort 
Coffee  furnished  the  secretaries,  in  the  persons  of  the  author 
and  Rev.  H.  C.  Benson.  Something  over  twenty  voting 
members  were  present.  Among  them,  and  on  trial,  were 
several  native  Indian  preachers.  Our  Indian  brethren, 
whom  we  had  left  on  the  way,  arrived  early  in  the  session. 

* 


CONFERENCE  SESSION.  177 

The  Conference  being  duly  organized,  business  was  en- 
tered upon,  and  dispatched  with  all  the  order  and  regularity 
that  usually  characterize  the  proceedings  of  an  Annual 
Conference.  Entire  harmony  and  good  feeling  prevailed. 
Reports  from  the  various  mission-fields  were  encouraging. 
All  seemed  pleased  with  being  released  from  their  depend- 
ence upon  the  Conferences  in  the  States,  and  having  an 
independent  organization  ;  and  a  strong  determination  was 
manifested,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  to  push  the  mission 
work  into  all  the  tribes  upon  the  border.  The  devotions  of 
the  daily  services  were  deeply  interesting,  being  opened  in 
English,  and  generally  closed  in  some  one  of  the  Indian 
languages.  Bishop  Morris  appeared  in  character,  with  a 
Spanish  blanket  upon  his  shoulders,  and  all  the  tout  ensem- 
ble of  a  genuine  frontier's-man.  He  had  a  pleasant  home 
with  a  branch  of  the  Ross  family,  where  his  council  met 
and  the  appropriations  were  made.  He  was  in  fine  health 
and  spirits,  and  seemed  quite  as  much  at  home  as  if  sur- 
rounded by  a  body  of  D.  D.'s  in  one  of  our  Eastern 
cities. 

At  this  session  the  proposal  of  the  members  of  the  South- 
ern Conference  to  hold  a  Convention  in  the  city  of  Louisville 
came  up  for  consideration.  No  debate  was  had.  The  main 
question  at  issue  was  wholly  ignored  ;  but  it  was  determined, 
being  within  the  limits  of  the  South,  to  send  delegates.  On 
counting  the  votes,  it  was  found  that  Rev.  E.  T.  Peery  from 
the  northern  section  of  the  Conference,  and  W.  H.  Goode 
from  the  southern,  had  received  an  almost  unanimous  vote. 
No  pledges  were  asked,  no  instructions  given,  no  opinions 
expressed  by  the  body;  the  delegates  were  left  entirely  free 
and  untrammeled. 

On  Saturday,  the  business  being  closed,  the  Conference 
adjourned  with  the  understanding  that  all  should  remain 
and  unite  in  the  public  services  of  the  Sabbath.  On  Mon- 
day morning  we  set  our  faces  homeward,  the  Bishop  re- 
maining, with  the  promise  of  a  carriage  to  convey  him 
down  into  the  State  on  his  way  to  Fort  Smith. 


178  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

A  most  singular  instance  of  Indian  thoughtlessness  and 
utter  disregard  of  propriety  met  my  notice  during  my  stay. 
In  passing  down  a  road  near  the  Council -Ground,  I  saw  a 
gallows  by  the  wayside,  and  a  company  of  men  in  the  act 
of  interring  a  corpse  in  a  grave  under  the  gallows.  My 
surprise  was  excited,  having  heard  of  no  recent  execution 
there.  On  inquiry,  I  learned  that,  some  time  previous,  the 
gallows  had  been  erected,  and  a  convict  hung  upon  it,  his 
grave  having  been  first  prepared  with  the  design  of  burying 
him  there.  The  friends  of  the  criminal,  however,  claiming 
the  body,  it  was  delivered  to  them,  taken  away  and  interred 
elsewhere,  the  first  grave  being  left  open.  It  happened  that, 
during  the  session  of  the  National  Council,  then  in  prog- 
ress, one  of  the  members  had  sickened  and  died ;  and  the 
heedless  savages,  to  save  the  labor  of  digging  another 
grave,  were  honoring  the  legislator  with  the  rites  of  sepul- 
ture under  the  gallows  in  a  felon's  grave. 

Desirous  of  visiting  another  station  of  the  American 
Board,  brothers  Benson,  Page,  and  myself  took  a  different 
route  home,  passing  our  first  night  at  Dwight  mission. 
This  is  a  mission  of  long  standing,  having  been  founded  in 
1820.  It  was  first  established  on  Illinois  Bayou,  in  the  ter- 
ritory now  embraced  in  the  State  of  Arkansas,  but,  on  the 
removal  of  the  Cherokees — old-settler  party  or  Western 
Cherokees — further  west,  transferred  to  its  present  site  upon 
the  bank  of  the  Salasaw.  It  was  still  doing  much  good. 
Here  forty  native  girls  are  boarded  and  educated  gratui- 
tously. The  institution  was  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Hitchcock,  a  layman  of  good  qualifications,  who,  with- 
out pecuniary  compensation,  had  devoted  his  life,  now 
pretty  far  spent,  to  this  labor  of  love,  taking  to  himself 
only  a  meager  support.  A  similar  case  of  self-consecration 
for  life,  on  part  of  a  layman,  I  have  never  personally 
known.  Mr.  Day  and  lady  were  teachers.  Rev.  Mr.  But- 
trick  was  there,  also,  but  unable  to  labor.  He  had  been 
twenty-seven  years  preaching  and  laboring  among  the  peo- 
ple. His  health  was  gone,  and  he  was  declining  rapidly. 

* 


PETER   P.    PITCHLYN.  179 

Doubtless,  long  ere  this,  he  has  "rested  from  his  labors." 
He  invited  us  to  his  room,  where,  with  the  mission  band, 
we  spent  part  of  the  evening  in  the  exercises  of  a  prayer 
meeting,  and,  even  in  these  wilds,  found  it  "good"  to  be 
there.  These  Presbyterian  missionaries  in  the  Cherokee 
Nation  are  devoted,  self-denying  men  of  God.  Lord,  fill 
the  world  with  such  ! 

On  the  29th  we  reached  Fort  Coffee,  and  found  all  things 
right,  the  school  going  on  prosperously  under  the  care  of 
Mr.  Brigharn.  Col.  Pitchlyn  was  there  awaiting  my  return. 
Not  having  had  occasion  to  speak  of  the  Colonel  before,  I 
can  not  pass  him  without  a  brief  introduction  to  the 
reader. 

PETER  P.  PITCHLYN  is  a  half-breed  Choctaw,  educated  at 
Col.  Johnson's  school  in  Kentucky.  He  is  above  medium 
stature,  with  athletic  frame,  and  strongly-marked  features. 
He  is  of  a  "fighting  stock,"  and  the  family  are  regarded  as 
possessing  more  than  an  ordinary  share  of  Indian  ferocity. 
But  in  his  case  it  is  all  placed  under  the  restraints  of  edu- 
cation and  religion.  He  is  a  member  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  and  is  esteemed  pious ;  an  ardent  promoter  of 
learning,  morals,  and  religion ;  President  of  the  National 
Council,  a  leading  advocate  and  supporter  of  their  school 
system,  and  frequently  a  delegate  of  the  tribe  to  Washing- 
ton, where  he  is  well  known  and  has  extensive  influence, 
as  well  as  with  his  people  at  home.  Altogether,  he  was 
decidedly  the  most  popular  and  influential  man  in  the  Choc- 
taw  Nation,  and,  from  occasional  notices,  I  infer  that  he 
still  maintains  his  position.  One  of  his  nephews,  the  son 
of  a  Choctaw  father  and  Chickasaw  mother,  was  an  active, 
sprightly  boy  in  our  school.  Subsequently  he  attended  the 
Asbury  University  at  Greencastle,  entered  the  medical  pro- 
fession, married,  and  settled  in  Indiana,  where  he  still 
resides. 

Tidings  of  an  event  mournfully  triumphant  soon  reached 
us.  A  few  days  after  our  return  a  messengei  arrived  bear- 
ing a  note  from  Fort  Smith.  Our  brother,  Ok-ehi-ah,  was 

«. 


180  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

no  more.  He  bad  fallen,  to  live  forever.  We  had  left  him 
at  the  seat  of  the  Conference,  to  follow  on  with  his  company 
as  he  was  able  to  bear  it,  while  we  traveled  with  greater 
speed.  His  strength  barely  held  out  to  reach  Fort  Smith, 
where  he  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  friend.  In  the  course  of 
the  night,  being  restless,  he  arose  and  walked  out  on  a 
porch,  fell  from  the  porch  to  the  ground ;  was  heard,  taken 
up,  carried  in,  and  laid  upon  a  bed.  He  only  uttered  a  few 
words  in  Choctaw,  unintelligible  to  those  around  him, 
raised  his  hand  and  pointed  upward,  and  his  spirit  fled  to  a 
mansion  in  the  heavenly  home.  So  passed  away  from 
earth  this  pious,  pathetic,  eloquent  child  of  the  forest. 
Though  unable  to  understand  his  language,  yet  his  solem- 
nity, his  emotion,  his  tears  melted  his  audiences  beyond  the 
power  of  words.  I  replied  to  the  note,  directing  them  to 
inter  him  decently  and  send  me  their  account.  His  remains 
rest  under  the  thunder  of  the  artillery  of  the  fort,  but  it 
arouses  him  not.  The  return  of  dawn  is  daily  ushered  in 
by  the  roar  of  cannon  and  the  stirring  reveille,  but  they 
awake  him  not.  The  grand  reveille  of  the  resurrection 
morn  alone  will  arouse  him  from  the  stillness  of  the  tomb. 
I  visited  the  spot,  kneeled  by  his  grave,  and  fervently  prayed, 
Indian  as  he  was,  that  the  mantle  of  Ok-chi-ah  might  fall 
upon  me. 


TRIP  TO   RED   RIVER.  181 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

TRIP    TO    RED    RIVER. 

ON  the  19th  day  of  November  I  set  out  upon  a  trip  to 
the  Red  River  country.  The  journey  lying  over  a  tedious, 
lonely  road,  I  was  careful  to  start  upon  "mail-day,"  so  as 
to  secure  the  benefit  of  the  company  and  experience  of  the 
mail-boy  upon  an  unknown  route  ;  he  bearing  his  load  of 
"news"  upon  his  jaded  mule,  whose  sides  bled  from  the 
constant  application  of  the  long-pointed,  murderous,  Mexi- 
can spur,  in  common  use  upon  the  frontier,  and  I  mounted 
upon  a  steed  of  good  capacity  and  fine  mettle. 

The  first  night  out  we  lodged  in  an  Indian  cabin.  The 
second  day  brought  us  to  Ki-e-mi-chi,  where  we  had  similar 
entertainment ;  the  third  to  Spencer  Academy,  and  on  the 
4th  we  reached  Doaksville.  On  the  way  we  crossed  the 
range  known  as  the  Ki-e-mi-chi  Mountains,  one  of  the 
principal  ranges  of  the  Ozarks ;  rocky,  precipitous,  and 
often  difficult  of  passage.  The  mountain  sides  are  heavily 
covered  with  forests  of  pitch-pine,  whose  somber  shades 
give  to  the  scenery  a  majestic  appearance,  while  the  inter- 
vening valleys  of  prairie,  sterile  and  unproductive  as  they 
are,  nevertheless  contribute  to  highten  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  by  the  contrast. 

Part  of  our  way  lay  upon  the  great  thoroughfare  to  the 
Trinity  River  country,  in  Texas,  then  so  rapidly  filling  up 
with  adventurers  attracted  by  offers  of  "  head  rights  "  of  land. 
Well-trodden  camping-grounds,  skeletons  of  work  animals, 
little  cavities  in  the  rocks,  where  tar  for  immediate  use  had 
been  manufactured  from  the  rich  pine-knots,  and  various 
other  traces,  familiar  to  Western  emigrants,  marked  the 
way.  Another  extract  from  my  published  sketches  will 


182  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

best  describe  this  trip.  It  bears  date  "Doaksville,  Choctaw 
Nation,  November  22d :" 

"I  now  address  you  from  tbe  most  populous  and  interest- 
ing part  of  the  Choctaw  Nation.  The  tour  was  undertaken 
partly  in  pursuance  of  a  long-entertained,  but  oft-defeated, 
purpose  of  my  own,  and  partly  at  the  instance  of  the 
authorities  of  the  Church  and  of  the  Government  to  attend 
to  some  interests  in  connection  with  the  work  of  Indian 
education. 

"I  pass  by  the  intervening  time  [since  my  last]  spent  in 
home-labors,  and  propose  to  present  your  readers  with  a  few 
numbers  containing  such  items  as  may  be  gleaned  during 
the  expedition  just  now  undertaken,  with  which  I  design  to 
wind  up  these  sketches.  I  must  not  omit,  however,  a 
pleasant  interview  of  some  days  had  in  the  interim  with 
our  much-esteemed  Bishop  Morris.  Circumstances  pre- 
vented the  Bishop  from  visiting  Fort  Coffee,  as  we  had 
hoped.  It  was  accordingly  arranged  at  Conference  that  we 
should  meet  at  Fort  Smith,  and  hold  a  meeting  of  some 
days  'continuance.  At  Conference  he  appeared  in  character, 
with  'hard-times'  coat  and  striped  blanket,  looking  quite  as 
much  like  a  missionary  as  any  of  us.  At  Fort  Smith, 
however,  these  had  been  doffed  and  he  was  himself  again. 
We  had  a  pleasant  and,  I  doubt  not,  a  profitable  two  days' 
meeting.  The  citizens  were  highly  gratified  with  his  visit. 
As  some  small  evidence  of  their  appreciation  the  Sabbath 
congregation,  many  of  whom  were  gentlemen  of  the  army, 
with  their  characteristic  liberality,  gave  us,  in  the  absence 
of  the  preacher  in  charge,  a  handsome  collection  to  be  car- 
ried by  the  Bishop  to  our  needy  brethren  at  the  Arkansas 
Conference.  The  hat  for  the  collection  was  carried  around 
by  a  hand  disabled  by  a  gunshot  in  the  gallant  defense  of 
Fort  Sandusky,  under  Colonel  Croghan,  in  the  war  of  1812, 
which,  of  course,  helped  to  give  access  to  the  heart  and 
purse  of  a  soldier.  A  few  mornings  after,  we  saw  the 
Bishop  snugly  seated  in  an  Arkansas  stage  to  enjoy  the  jolts 
and  other  interesting  incidents  of  a  passage  to  Little  Rock. 


SPENCER  ACADEMY.  183 

"The  Government  of  the  United  States  has  placed  before 
the  Choctaws  very  little  inducement  to  agricultural  life  so 
far  as  soil  is  concerned.  Their  country  as  a  whole  is  vastly 
inferior  to  that  of  the  Cherokees.  Upon  the  Arkansas  and 
its  tributaries  is  some  good  soil,  generally  lowlands,  well 
adapted  to  corn  and  cotton.  A  portion  also  of  country 
upon  Red  River  has  a  fair  upland  soil  adapted  chiefly  to 
cotton.  Near  the  center  of  the  nation  is  the  beautiful  and 
fertile  valley  of  the  Ki-e-mi-chi,  in  which  stands  the  Na- 
tional Council-House.  Almost  the  entire  extent  besides  is 
sterile  and  worthless,  consisting  of  barren  prairies  and  rug- 
ged mountains,  with  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty  miles  between 
Indian  cabins,  and  scarcely  a  foot  of  productive  soil  in  the 
distance.  The  growth  is  principally  of  scrubby  oak,  relieved 
by  forests  of  pine  upon  the  mountain  sides  ;  the  scenery 
always  striking,  often  grand  and  sublime,  and  sometimes 
hideous.  The  undesirable  character  of  this  country  may 
prevent  further  encroachment  of  the  white  man. 

"  On  my  way  over  I  visited  Spencer  Academy,  under  the 
immediate  care  of  the  General  Council.  This  institution  is 
well  endowed,  with  a  competent  superintendent  and  able 
instructors.  We  wish  it  long  to  remain  a  blessing  to  the 
Nation.  I  find,  however,  that  the  Choctaws  are  now  learn- 
ing the  lesson  long  since  gained  experimentally  by  you  in 
'  the  States,'  that  literary  institutions  ordinarily  accomplish 
far  more  real  good  under  the  management  of  some  one 
religious  denomination  than  when  left  to  the  entire  control 
of  the  civil  authorities,  however  ample  their  endowment,  or 
able  and  talented  their  conductors." 

Thus  much  I  then  wrote  ;  but  the  case  was  even  stronger, 
and  subsequent  events  abundantly  confirmed  the  view  taken. 
Spencer  Academy  was  endowed  above  any  institution  in  the 
Nation.  It  had  the  special  patronage  of  the  distinguished 
gentleman  then  at  the  head  of  the  War  Department  whose 
name  it  bore  ;  had  the  immediate  support  of  the  National 
Council,  and  was  the  pet  of  the  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs,  through  whom  it  obtained  special  Government  favors. 


184  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

It  was  his  purpose  and  that  of  the  Council  to  make  this  insti- 
tution the  pride  of  the  Nation.  The  fund  at  their  disposal 
enabled  them  to  erect  costly  buildings,  furnish  them  well, 
lay  in  a  large  supply  of  clothing,  provisions,  etc.,  and  open 
with  all  the  style  and  show  of  a  first-class  hotel. 

These  circumstances  constituted  our  neighboring  institu- 
tion a  formidable  rival  to  our  own ;  for  it  must  not  be  sup- 
posed that  competitions  and  rivalships  are  unknown  beyond 
the  bounds  of  civilization.  Our  endowment  was  inferior ; 
we  had  no  building  or  improvement  fund  except  as  saved 
from  our  annuity,  while  keeping  up  at  the  same  time  the 
male  department  of  our  school.  Both  institutions  were 
opened  near  the  same  time,  and  as  a  result,  the  apparent 
advantages  of  Spencer  Academy  led  the  prominent  families 
of  the  Nation,  principally  half-breeds,  to  seek  admission  for 
their  students,  while  ours  was  filled  up  mainly  with  full- 
bloods  from  families  of  smaller  influence  and  wealth. 

Time  soon  proved  the  defects  of  the  organization  at  Spen- 
cer. A  nominal  superintendent  was  placed  there  in  the 
person  of  Eev.  Mr.  M.,  a  worthy  Presbyterian  minister  of 
the  Old  School ;  and  Mr.  W.,  a  fine  literary  gentleman  of 
amiable  character  and  experience  in  Indian  affairs,  was  ap- 
pointed principal  teacher,  with  a  salary  higher  than  that  of 
the  Superintendent ;  it  being  the  understanding  that,  in  the 
management  of  the  affairs  of  the  institution,  Mr.  M.  should 
consult  Mr.  W.,  and  Mr.  W.  should  consult  Major  A.;  and 
all  this  so  combined  with  the  authority  of  the  National 
Council  that  it  was  difficult  to  say  where  the  actual  seat  of 
power  and  responsibility  was.  Rev.  Mr.  M.,  the  nominal 
superintendent,  informed  me  that  his  actual  position  was 
that  of  "principal  servant."  His  hands  were  effectually 
tied.  Supplies  were  soon  exhausted,  funds  were  used  up, 
and  credit  was  refused  them  at  the  leading  houses  of  the 
Nation.  The  half-breed  boys  from  the  wealthy  families 
proved  insubordinate,  commenced  running  away,  and  the 
"light  horse"  of  the  Nation  was  put  into  requisition  to 
bring  them  back  to  their  places.  Matters  at  length  arrived 


SUCCESS  AT  FORT  COFFEE.          185 

at  such  a  pass  that  an  attempt  was  made  to  set  fire  to  the 
buildings  of  the  institution.  All  this  occurred  within  a 
little  over  a  year  from  the  time  of  opening. 

Meanwhile  our  institution  at  Fort  Coffee  was  progressing 
steadily  and  safely.  All  was  under  the  control  of  a  single 
hand,  responsible  only  to  the  authorities  of  the  Church  and 
the  Missionary  Society.  Partly  from  necessity  and  partly 
from  choice  we  had  opened  in  a  plain  though  comfortable 
U-UY.  Advice  of  friends  that  would  have  urged  us  into  ex- 
travagant expenditures  was  passed  by.  All  our  plans  were 
laid  in  economy  and  forethought.  Supplies  of  provisions 
and  clothing  were  laid  in  at  the  proper  seasons  of  the  year 
and  kept  on  hand  in  sufficient  quantities.  Want  was  never 
felt.  No  debts  were  contracted.  Our  unsophisticated  full- 
blood  boys  proved  to  be  excellent  students.  Xo  serious  case 
of  insubordination  occurred.  No  student  ever  ran  away, 
with  the  single  exception  of  an  elderly  boy,  improperly 
selected,  who  went  home  to  his  wife.  Our  friends  gradually 
increased,  and  our  institution  grew  in  favor. 

Under  date  of  September  25,  1844,  I  received  a  letter, 
now  before  me,  written  at  the  dictation  of  a  leading  man 
of  the  Nation,  requesting  me  without  fail  to  attend  the 
session  of  the  National  Council,  then  near  at  hand,  with  a 
view  to  a  change  in  the  management  of  Spencer  Academy, 
and  placing  it  under  the  control  of  our  Missionary  Board 
is  that  at  Fort  Coffee  was.  Out  of  deference  to  the  Super- 
ntendent  of  Indian  Affairs,  and  to  allow  time  for  the  de- 
fects of  their  organization  more  fully  to  develop  themselves, 
I,  for  the  time  being,  declined.  Some  months  subsequently 
brother  Benson  was  addressed  with  an  offer  of  increased 
salary  if  he  would  leave  us,  go  to  Spencer  and  help  them 
(  ut  with  their  difficulties.  But  the  cloud  of  Church  division 
was  then  gathering,  and  our  own  movements  were  becoming 
contingent,  so  that  we  deemed  it  prudent  to  remain  in  our 
j  osition,  declining  all  offers  of  the  kind. 

If  any  seeming  egotism  attach  to  the  foregoing  statement, 
I  have  only  to  say  that  without  it  I  could  not  exhibit 

16 


186  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

properly  the  workings  of  the  two  rival  systems,  and  the 
decided  superiority  of  missionary  plans  and  control  in  con- 
nection with  all  efforts  for  Indian  amelioration.  The  sequel 
and  present  condition  of  Spencer  Academy  I  am  not  advised 
of.  I  think  it  was  ultimately  placed,  at  discretion,  in  the 
hands  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  Rev.  Mr.  M.,  however, 
had  previously  resigned  his  place  and  returned  to  the  States. 
The  letter  goes  on  to  say,  "The  Choctaws  of  all  classes 
seem  proud  of  their  schools.  But  little  discontent  is  mani- 
fested to  the  appropriations,  although  the  effect  is  to  cut  off 
their  annuities,  and  take  the  money  directly  out  of  their 
pockets.  They  appear  to  act  understandingly  and  from  a 
settled  determination  to  spread  the  blessings  of  education 
among  all  the  people.  The  late  National  Council  appro- 
priated for  the  support  of  fourteen  Sabbath  schools  fifty 
dollars  each.  Provision  also  has  been  made  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  printing-press.  Should  the  Nation  persevere 
in  its  efforts  and  no  providential  hinderance  intervene,  the 
Choctaws  must,  within  twenty  years,  be  an  educated  people." 


DOAKSVILLE.  187 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

RED   RIVER  SIDE. 

THE  "Red  River  Side"  of  the  Choctaw  country  now  came 
up  for  observation.  Arrived  at  Doaksville  I  found  a  wel- 
come and  hospitable  home  at  the  house  of  Colonel  David 
Folsom,  an  old  ex-chief  of  the  Nation,  and  a  man  of  more 
than  ordinary  intelligence  ;  had  also  kind  attention  from 
Mr.  Berthelet,  a  Canadian  gentleman,  to  whose  care  I  had 
been  commended  by  my  friend  J.  H.  Heald,  partner  in  busi- 
ness to  Mr.  B. 

Doaksville  I  found  to  be  a  flourishing  town,  the  largest 
in  all  the  Indian  country.  It  is  mainly  surrounded  by  large 
cotton  plantations,  owned  by  Choctaws  and  Chickasaws, 
mostly  half-breeds,  and  worked  by  slaves.  It  is  a  brisk, 
neat-looking  place,  with  a  good  church,  an  excellent  public 
house,  kept  by  my  host,  Colonel  Folsom,  on  temperance 
principles,  quite  a  number  of  stores,  mechanics'  shops,  etc., 
and  all  the  marks  of  thrift  and  prosperity.  It  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  garrison  buildings  at  Fort  Towson,  a  mile 
distant,  and  is  within  a  few  miles  of  Red  River  and  the 
Texas  line.  I  found  our  Church  in  that  part  of  the  Nation 
strong  in  numbers  and  influence,  having  had  the  labors  of 
faithful  and  devoted  missionaries  and  profited  by  them.  I 
enjoyed  a  pleasant  season  of  worship  with  them. 

Intending  to  make  my  principal  stay  in  this  place  during 
the  annuity  payment,  which  was  to  take  place  the  ensuing 
week,  after  making  a  few  calls,  I  passed  on  in  the  direction 
of  Texas.  I  again  refer  to  one  of  my  published  series, 
dated  "  Clarksville,  Texas,  November  25th:" 

"Being  desirous,  while  thus  far  south,  of  making  a  visit 
to  the  'land  of  the  lone  star,'  [this  was  previous  to  annex- 


188  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ation,]  I  left  Doaksville  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  in 
company  with  Rev.  J.  M.  Steele.  A  ride  of  seven  miles 
brought  us  to  Red  River.  No  marvel  at  the  name.  The 
first  sight  would  suggest  it,  colored  as  its  water  is  by  the 
red  clay  soil  through  which  it  passes.  This  stream  is  per- 
haps more  interrupted  in  its  navigation  by  snags  and  drift 

than  any  other  of  equal  size  on  the  continent 

We  crossed  Red  River  at  the  mouth  of  Ki-e-mi-chi.  Here 
is  one  of  the  great  crossings  of  fugitives  from  justice  mak- 
ing their  escape  through  the  Indian  country  from  the  States. 
This  river  passed  they  are  safe,  unless,  perchance,  some 
band  of  Texan  '  regulators '  take  them  up  and  suspend 
them  from  the  limb  of  a  tree,  as  is  sometimes  quite  sum- 
marily done.  We  amused  ourselves  somewhat  with  the 
ferryman,  a  good-natured  Hibernian,  by  questions  in  rela- 
tion to  the  character  of  his  customers  and  their  apparent 
urgency  in  crossing.  He  replied  that  he  '  set  all  over  that 
came,  asking  no  questions,'  but  he  could  not  be  induced  to 
believe  that  we  were  in  any  danger  from  that  quarter,  nor 
at  all  to  hasten  his  speed  to  relieve  us. 

"  On  the  banks  of  this  stream  grows  in  great  abundance 
the  '  Bois-de-arc '  or  Bow-wood,  known  in  the  States  as  the 
Osage  Orange.  It  sometimes  attains  the  size  of  two  feet  in 
diameter,  is  scrubby  and  rugged  in  appearance,  and  bearing 
large  quantities  of  its  great  useless  '  apples.'  [The  Towson 
soldiers  charge. the  Texans  with  making  whisky  of  them, 
and  selling  it  to  them,  making  them  '  crazy  ;'  an  excuse  for 
their  drunkenness.]  In  the  first  day's  travel  from  the  river 
we  pass  several  considerable  cotton  plantations  with  gins 
and  other  good  improvements.  The  greater  part  of  the 
way,  however,  lay  through  barren  pine  flats,  almost  unin- 
habited. Near  sunset  we  emerged  into  a  beautiful  and 
fertile  prairie  with  large  barns,  comfortable  dwellings,  and 
every  indication  of  prosperity  and  comfort.  At  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  this  prairie  is  Clarksville,  the  largest  town, 
I  believe,  in  Northern  Texas. 

"This  place  was  first  settled  in  1837,  has  a  business-like 


TEXAS — MORALS — INDEPENDENCE.  189 

appearance,  and  a  population  of  about  four  hundred.  The 
citizens,  of  course,  think  it  prospectively  a  place  of  great 
importance.  It  is,  indeed,  an  interesting  place,  contains 
some  very  good  society,  and  appears  to  be  considerably 
under  religious  influence.  There  is,  however,  a  great  want 
of  good  water ;  the  entire  dependence  in  dry  seasons  being 
upon  rain-water  kept  in  'jugs '  or  large  cisterns,  blown  or 
cut  out  of  the  solid  limestone  that  is  found  immediately 
below  the  surface.  The  same  scarcity  of  water  prevails,  I 
learn,  over  a  large  extent  of  country. 

"  We  were  kindly  received  and  entertained.  Our  host 
was  a  clever,  talkative  Tennesseean,  thoroughly  Texan  in 
every  thing,  and  quite  disposed  to  have  us  think  that  this  is 
the  'fairest  of  all  lands'  in  respect  to  soil,  climate,  morals, 
institutions,  and  almost  every  thing  else.  On  yesterday  I 
hud  the  privilege  of  preaching  to  a  congregation  respectable 
in  numbers,  well-clad,  genteel,  and  intelligent  in  appear- 
ance, and  quite  as  orderly  and  attentive  as  I  have  seen  in 
any  country. 

"The  emigration  to  Texas  by  this  route  is  immense,  par- 
ticularly from  Missouri.  It  is  computed  that  not  less  than 
five  thousand  emigrants  have  crossed  the  Arkansas  River  at 
Van  Buren  alone  during  the  present  season.  The  emigrants 
now  are  principally  settling  upon  the  Trinity  River,  'head- 
rights  '  or  grants  of  land  to  actual  settlers  being  made  by 
the  agent  of  the  'colony/  and  the  Government  having 
ceased  to  make  such  grants  elsewhere.  The  laws  of  Texas, 
it  is  said,  are  better  enforced  than  formerly.  The  criminal 
code  is  severe  and  the  process  summary.  The  penalties  are 
principally  cropping,  whipping,  hanging,  etc.  Near  the 
place  is  a  celebrated  '  limb '  on  which,  it  is  said,  eleven 
persons  have  been  hung. 

"There  exists  evidently  a  strong  desire  in  the  minds  of 
the  people  to  be  annexed  to  the  Government  of  the  United 
States,  notwithstanding  the  result  of  the  late  election 
which  would  seem  to  indicate  otherwise.  That  election 
is  said  to  afford  no  test  on  the  question.  There  is,  how- 


190  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ever,  a  show  of  independence.  The  impression  exists 
among  them  that  much  that  is  said  and  done  upon  the 
subject  in  the  United  States  is  for  mere  political  effect 
at  home,  and  that  the  people  in  the  States,  in  fact,  care 
but  little  for  them,  further  than  may  serve  their  own  in- 
terested views ;  and  they,  in  turn,  assert  that  they  are 
fully  able  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and  occasionally 
talk  of  '  firing  into  Uncle  Sam '  with  great  seeming  confi- 
dence. They  entertain  us  with  many  details  of  desperate 
adventures  and  hair-breadth  escapes  ;  of  Mexican  cruelty 
and  treachery,  and  of  Texan  courage  and  gallantry  con- 
nected with  their  late  revolutionary  struggle. 

11  After  the  services  of  the  Sabbath  I  rode  home  with 
Rev.  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  formerly  of  Arkansas  Conference,  who 
resides  a  few  miles  distant  from  the  village,  and  has  under 
his  charge  an  interesting  seminary.  Here  are  about  thirty 
promising  young  men  receiving  an  education.  They  lack 
suitable  buildings,  but  are  accommodating  themselves  to 
circumstances.  Most  of  them  are  pious,  and  several  are 
about  entering  the  ministry.  Brother  M.  is  doubtless  in  his 
proper  sphere  and  doing  good." 

Here  I  formed  an  interesting  acquaintance  with  an  old 
soldier,  Mr.  Benton,  nephew  to  the  late  Colonel  Thomas 
H.,  and  brother  to  Colonel  T.  H.  B.,  jr.,  of  Council  Bluffs. 
He  had  participated  in  their  war  of  independence,  and 
taken  part  in  the  memorable  battle  of  San  Jacinto.  He 
was  an  educated  man,  and  then  employed  as  a  teacher  in 
the  institution. 

The  letter  proceeds:  "Here  Methodism  is  pioneering  in 
her  true  character;  exerting  a  most  beneficial  influence  in 
forming  the  character  of  this  people.  It  is  said  that  one  of 
the  late  Texan  envoys  to  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  remarked,  while  in  Washington,  that  the  efforts  of 
the  Methodist  ministry  had  done  more  toward  securing 
respect  for  law,  submission  to  courts  of  justice,  regard  for 
the  sanctity  of  oaths,  and  consequently  the  general  peace 
and  good  order  of  society  than  any  other  influence  that  has 


DR.  RUTER — REV.  A.  K)E — GEN.  HOWARD.       191 

been  brought  to  bear.  So  let  it  ever  be  truly  said  of  the 
Methodist  ministry  every-where. 

"But,  solemn  reflection!  these  blessings  have  not  been 
attained  for  Texas  without  cost ;  cost  to  the  Church  and 
to  the  country.  In  this  land  some  of  her  most  gifted  and 
favorite  sons  have  laid  down  their  lives.  Here  fell  our 
Enter.  Here  fell  our  Poe  and  his  devoted  companion.  But 
they  have  left  a  monument  in  the  hearts  of  a  grateful  and 
affectionate  people.  And  may  I  not  claim,  as  a  citizen  of 
Indiana,  the  privilege  of  adding,  here  recently  fell,  while 
representing  his  Government,  General  Tilghman  A.  Howard, 
who,  though  not  a  minister  of  the  everlasting  Gospel,  and 
not  a  member  of  our  own  religious  denomination,  was 
nevertheless  a  pious,  benevolent,  and  philanthropic  citizen  ; 
[Howard,  the  protector  of  piety  in  the  younger  members  of 
the  bar,  the  man  of  whom  it  was  said  that  no  man  dared  to 
sneer  at  or  ridicule  their  professions  of  piety  in  his  pres- 
ence;] one  whose  moral  and  intellectual  worth,  now  that 
party  competitions  and  rivalships  are  hushed  in  the  stillness 
of  the  tomb,  is  felt  and  acknowledged  by  all.  The  reader 
will  pardon  this  passing  tribute  to  consistent  piety  in 
public  life." 

Other  reminiscences  of  that  devoted  servant  of  God,  Rev. 
Martin  Ruter,  D.  D.,  are  vividly  called  up.  In  the  Fall  of 
1837,  being  then,  if  I  mistake  not,  a  member  of  the  Pitts- 
burg  Conference,  he  received  an  appointment  to  Texas,  then 
in  an  extremely-unsettled  state,  destitute  of  a  regular  Gospel 
ministry,  and  needing  some  one  of  mature  years  and  judg- 
ment to  mold  and  shape  the  early  movements  of  the  Church. 
For  this  position  the  learning,  piety,  and  ministerial  abili- 
ties of  Dr.  Ruter  eminently  fitted  him  ;  and  though  already 
past  the  meridian  of  life,  he  did  not  decline  the  arduous 
service.  His  appointed  work  was  one  of  exploration  and 
temporary  labor,  preparatory  to  a  regular  supply. 

In  prospect  of  a  long  absence,  his  family  were  removed 
to  New  Albany,  Indiana,  where  the  late  lamented  Calvin 
W.  Ruter,  his  brother,  then-  lived,  as  well  as  several  of  the 


192  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Doctor's  own  children.  My  own  field  of  labor  was  in  that 
place  then  and  the  succeeding  year.  During  his  stay  there 
he  attended  the  session  of  the  Indiana  Conference  in  that 
place,  and  his  labors  in  the  pulpit  and  upon  the  platform 
are  not  yet  forgotten.  The  time  came  for  his  departure. 
The  steamer  lay  at  the  landing.  Leave  was  taken  of  his 
.family,  and  he  went  down  to  the  boat.  Some  cause  of  de- 
tention occurring,  he  returned  to  his  house,  seated  himself 
with  his  family  for  a  time,  and  sang  that  beautiful  and 
affecting  hymn, 

"  Yes,  my  native  land,  I  love  thee,"  etc. 

Leave  was  again  taken,  and  soon  the  missionary  of  the 
Cross  was  on  his  way.  The  journey  was  made;  the  field 
was  entered  and  explored  ;  the  "  Gospel  of  the  kingdom 
was  preached,"  and  initiatory  steps  were  taken  for  future 
and  vigorous  Church  efforts.  His  work  being  done,  his 
thoughts  were  turned  homeward,  and  he  was  on  the  eve  of 
departure,  when  suddenly  God  said  "It  is  enough,"  and 
called  his  faithful  servant  home. 

The  time  of  his  expected  arrival  had  come.  Wife,  chil- 
dren, friends  were  in  eager  anticipation.  In  the  midst  of 
these  expectations  one  came  to  my  own  room,  and  placed 
in  my  hands  two  letters  addressed  to  the  family.  Their  ap- 
pearance excited  mournful  apprehensions  of  the  contents. 
I  went  first  to  my  friend,  Rev.  C.  W.  Ruter.  The  seals 
were  broken,  and  the  contents  glanced  at.  He  was  gone  ! 
Husband,  father,  brother  !  They  should  no  more  see  his 
face,  nor  hear  his  gentle  words.  Never  shall  I  forget 
the  sensations  of  that  hour.  But  as  yet  the  loss  was  un- 
known to  those  most  deeply  concerned.  There  was  one 
who  still  thought  herself  a  wife ;  and  there  were  those  who 
thought  they  had  a  father.  Widowhood  and  orphanage  they 
knew  not.  The  sad  tidings  were  to  be  conveyed  to  them. 
The  first  gush  of  nature  over  with  the  brother,  we  started 
down  the  street  toward  the  residence  of  the  bereaved  family, 
he  bearing  the  fatal  letters.  As  we  approached  the  door, 


ANNUITY  PAYMENT.  193 

man  of  nerve  as  he  was,  his  heart  failed  him — he  paused — 
"You  must  take  them,"  said  he,  and  he  fell  back.  Enter- 
ing the  dwelling,  I  attempted  with  gentleness  and  caution 
to  prepare  the  mind  of  sister  R.  for  the  sad  announcement. 
But,  ah  !  as  experience  has  since  taught  me,  that  very  pre- 
caution and  studied  kindness  of  manner  excite  the  most 
terrible  apprehensions.  "Let  me  know  the  worst,"  is  the 
involuntary  exclamation  of  the  heart.  The  tale  was  told. 
I  will  not  endeavor  to  describe  the  scene  that  followed. 
Memory  has  lodged  it  firmly,  and  kindred  experience  in  my 
own  life-journey  has  imprinted  it  yet  more  deeply. 

But  God  is  good,  and  his  ways  are  right.  "Man  is  im- 
mortal till  his  work  is  done."  He  called  his  servant  home 
just  at  the  close  of  an  important  work ;  and  his  providence 
has  taken  care  of  the  family.  The  affectionate,  warm- 
hearted brother  has  since  passed  to  his  reward.  Others  of 
the  family  have  entered  into  rest.  One  son  is  in  the  itiner- 
ant ministry;  a  daughter  is  the  wife  of  a  prominent  trav- 
eling preacher  in  the  South,  and  the  rest  of  the  large  house- 
hold are,  I  believe,  provided  for.  Two  Annual  Conferences 
now  occupy  the  field  then  first  explored.  Thus  "  God 
buries  his  workmen,  but  carries  on  his  work." 

Our  Texas  visit  finished,  we  again  set  our  faces  north- 
ward, and  the  evening  of  the  25th  found  us  again  in 
Doaksville,  surrounded  by  all  the  excitement  and  bustle  of 
an  approaching  annuity  payment.  On  the  day  following 
visited  the  annuity-grounds,  a  few  miles  distant.  I  again 
extract  from  the  same  series,  over  date  of  "Fort  Towson, 
Choctaw  Nation,  November  27th  :" 

"  The  tim  of  payment  of  the  regular  annuities  is  a  sea- 
son of  great  interest  to  the  Indian  tribes  generally.  Old 
and  young,  male  and  female,  come  together,  [some  by  entire 
tribes,  others,  as  among  the  Choctaws,  by  separate  dis- 
tricts,] at  the  appointed  time  and  place.  A  supply  of  beef 
is  furnished  at  public  expense,  and  a  kind  of  annual  festival 
is  kept.  The  interest,  however,  diminishes  among  the  Choc- 
taws  as  the  amount  of  their  annuity  is  lessened  by  appro- 

17 


194  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

priations  for  schools  and  other  public  objects.  It  is  gener- 
ally conceded  that  it  would  be  a  blessing  to  the  Nation  if 
the  entire  amount  were  appropriated  to  purposes  of  public 
utility,  these  annual  assemblages  done  away,  and  the 
people  thrown  wholly  upon  their  own  industry  for  a  sup- 
port. The  Choctaw  annuity,  this  year,  amounts  to  only 
two  dollars  per  caput;  yet  even  this  small  sum  in  expect- 
ancy, to  each  man,  woman,  and  child  creates,  with  many, 
a  dependence  which  prevents  personal  exertions  for  a  sus- 
tenance. 

"To-day  I  visited  the  annuity-ground.  This  is  the  first 
day  of  the  payment,  which,  in  this  district,  requires  three 
days.  The  funds  are  paid  out  by  the  United  States  Agent, 
with  the  assistance  of  clerks,  and  regular  entries  are  kept 
upon  the  rolls,  attested  by  the  mark  of  the  head  of  each 
family,  who  receives  for  himself  and  his  household.  [The 
top  of  the  pen  is  simply  touched  by  the  hand  of  the  person 
receiving,  and  the  clerk  himself  makes  the  mark.  The 
licensed  trader  of  the  tribe  is  at  hand  with  his  accounts, 
and  much  of  the  money  passes  immediately  into  his  box  in 
payment  of  debts.]  The  Choctaw  annuity  is  paid  with 
much  system  and  regularity,  and  without  any  of  those 
frauds  and  impositions  which  have  disgraced  the  transac- 
tions of  agents  of  the  Government  with  other  tribes. 

"These  payments  present  a  motley  assemblage.  Some 
thousands  of  Indians  are  scattered  over  a  tract  of  nearly  or 
quite  a  mile  square  around  the  pay-house,  where  the  princi- 
pal crowd  are  assembled.  Here  are  cabins,  tents,  booths, 
stores,  shanties,  wagons,  carts,  camp-fires  ;  ponies,  mules, 
oxen,  and  dogs ;  men,  women,  and  children ;  white,  red, 
black,  and  mixed,  to  every  imaginable  shade  and  propor- 
tion, and  dressed  in  every  conceivable  variety  of  style,  from 
the  tasty  American  fop  to  the  wild  costume  of  the  savage ; 
buying,  selling,  swapping,  betting,  shooting,  strutting, 
sauntering,  talking,  laughing,  fiddling,  eating,  drinking, 
smoking,  sleeping,  seeing,  and  being  seen — all  huddled 
together  in  one  promiscuous  and  undistinguished  mass. 


INDIAN   SCENES.  195 

"The  bringing  of  whisky  [o-ka-ho-ma]  on  the  ground  is 
prohibited,  and  when  found,  the  jugs  or  barrels  are  toma- 
hawked sans  ceremonie.  Still,  however,  enough  is  smuggled 
in  by  old  squaws,  and  other  honorable  dealers,  to  raise  the 
steam  ;  and  chance  if  the  morning  does  not  present  an 
array  of  bruises,  cuts,  and  stabs,  if  nothing  worse.  Gentle- 
men gamblers,  too,  make  this  a  resort ;  and  occasionally 
our  worthy  agent  detects  them ;  in  which  case  they  are  hon- 
ored with  a  seat  on  a  horse  behind  a  soldier,  to  whose  body 
they  are  lashed  fast,  and  in  this  state  of  involuntary  dragoon- 
ship  hurried  off  to  the  guard-house  amid  the  shouts  of  the 
crowd."  A  substitute  for  this  mode  of  punishment  was 
sometimes  found  in  compelling  the  luckless  gamester  to 
bear  upon  his  shoulders  a  bag  of  sand  to  the  boundary  of 
the  national  territory  under  the  escort  of  a  file  of  soldiers. 
We  respectfully  suggest  to  our  legislators  the  award  of  sim- 
ilar honors  to  this  class  of  gentry  in  our  own  land  of  civil- 
ization. 

A  singular  fact,  illustrative  of  universal  belief  in  the 
retributive  providence  of  God  met  my  notice  while  here. 
I  have  heretofore  spoken  of  a  scene  transpiring  in  the  north 
of  the  Nation,  in  which  a  Choctaw  man  was  killed  by  Cap- 
tain W.  Riddle,  a  half-breed,  and  the  United  States  Inter- 
preter. Riddle  came  on  to  assist  at  the  payment.  Soon 
after  arriving  he  was  attacked  with  violent  and  distressing 
pain  in  one  of  his  front  teeth,  of  a  character  the  technical 
name  of  which  I  have  forgotten,  but  which  the  United 
States  Surgeon  at  the  Garrison  informed  me  often  proved 
fatal.  For  days  he  laid  at  the  house  of  Colonel  Folsom, 
my  host,  in  most  excruciating  suffering,  and  eventually 
died.  Riddle's  act  had  been  generally  justified,  and  he  had 
not  been  prosecuted.  But  the  Indians  at  the  Ground,  not 
understanding  the  case,  and  struck  with  the  singularity 
of  a  large,  robust  man  prostrate  and  dying  with  mere 
toothache,  connected  it  in  their  minds  with  the  late  homi- 
cide, and  whispered  around  among  themselves,  "He  killed 
that  man!"  How  similar  to  the  sentiment  of  the  "bar- 


196  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

barous  people "  of  the  Island  of  Melita,  when  they  saw 
the  viper  fasten  upon  the  hand  of  Paul,  "No  doubt  this 
.man  is  a  murderer  whom  .  .  .  vengeance  suffereth 
not  to  live !"  A  sentiment  written  by  the  finger  of  God 
upon  the  universal  conscience  of  mankind. 


FORT  TOWSON.  197 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

RED    RIVER    SIDE  — TRAVELS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

A  FURTHER  extract  of  the  same  date  may  introduce  the 
present  chapter. 

"Fort  Towson  occupies  a  beautiful  and  commanding 
position.  It  was  first  established  in  1817  ;  was  subsequently 
evacuated  and  the  buildings  burned  down  ;  and  was  again 
re-established  pursuant  to  treaty  stipulation  with  the  Choc- 
taws  in  1830.  The  force  at  present  stationed  here  consists 
of  three  companies  of  infantry  and  one  of  dragoons.  This 
station  has  been  favored  with  several  commanding  officers 
who  were  men  of  decided  and  active  piety.  The  establish- 
ment is  altogether  superior  to  any  other  I  have  visited 
upon  this  frontier  in  point  of  neatness  and  permanency 
of  improvements,  comfort  and  good  order,  and  especially 
moral  and  religious  influence  among  the  soldiers.  Divine 
service  is  performed  here  almost  every  Sabbath ;  there  is  a 
flourishing  Sabbath  school,  and  a  number  of  the  soldiers  are 
pious.  A  temperance  meeting  is  held  weekly,  and  prayer 
meetings  twice  in  the  week.  The  influence  and  example  of 
the  late  Commandant,  Colonel  Loomis,  are  still  seen  and 
felt.  He  exerted  himself  with  great  effect  in  the  promotion 
of  temperance  ;  united  freely  with  the  common  soldiers  in 
prayer  meetings,  and  when  no  minister  was  present  on  the 
Sabbath,  would  himself  read  and  expound  the  Word  of 
God.  [Another  Havelock.]  This  by  many  of  the  officers 
was  considered  a  letting  down  of  his  dignity,  but  it  greatly 
endeared  him  to  the  soldiery.  On  last  evening  I  called,  by 
previous  arrangement,  upon  a  gentleman  connected  with 
the  army,  who,  with  his  family,  is  apparently  pious.  I  was 
kindly  entertained  and  made  welcome  during  my  stay  there  ; 


198  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

the  kind  hostess  assuring  me  that  they  had  the  '  little  cham- 
ber upon  the  wall '  and  all  the  arrangements  for  entertaining 
a  '  prophet.'  At  the  proper  hour  of  the  evening  the  '  church- 
call  '  was  given  by  fife  and  drum,  and  at  the  well-known 
signal  a  good  congregation  assembled.  The  singing  was 
conducted  by  a  choir  of  soldiers,  assisted  by  a  few  females. 
The  audience  was  exceedingly  solemn  and  attentive,  and  I 
had  much  comfort  in  proclaiming  the  word,  founded  on 
the  text,  '  As  I  live,  saith  the  Lord,  I  have  no  pleasure  in 
the  death  of  the  wicked/  etc." 

While  here  I  met  with  a  characteristic  instance  of  Indian 
generosity.  My  horse,  as  I  came  South,  had  by  casualty 
become  unfit  for  service.  I  was  advised  to  apply  for  the 
loan  of  a  horse  to  ride  into  Texas,  to  a  wealthy  half-breed 
farmer  near,  named  Birney,  who  owned  a  number  of  horses. 
I  was  readily  furnished  with  one,  my  own  being  kept  by  the 
lender.  The  horse  proved  to  be  a  fine,  fleet,  easy  traveler,  a 
much  more  valuable  animal  than  my  own.  I  was  taken 
with  him,  and  on  my  return,  finding  my  own  still  unfit  for 
service,  proposed  an  exchange.  The  generous  Indian  at  once 
replied,  "  Take  which  you  please,"  apparently  disdaining  the 
thought  of  any  compensation  for  the  difference  in  value. 

The  educational  effort  among  the  Choctaws  under  the 
auspices  of  the  American  Board  is  confined  to  the  south  of 
the  Nation  and  to  female  schools.  They  have  four  flourish- 
ing boarding-schools  for  girls,  in  which  they  are  kindly  and 
piously  cared  for,  and  instructed  in  reading,  writing,  etc.,  as 
well  as  the  ordinary  duties  and  labors  of  household  life. 
The  Superintendents  then  severally  in  charge  were  Rev. 
Messrs.  Kingsbury,  Wright,  Byington,  and  Hotchkin,  vet- 
eran missionaries,  who  had  been  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
years  laboring  with  this  people.  Fifteen  years  more  have 
rolled  away,  and  I  have  not  yet  heard  of  the  death  of  either. 
A  late  session  of  the  General  Council  had  provided  for  another 
institution  of  this  kind  in  the  south,  to  be  placed  under  the 
control  of  the  Baptists,  and  called  "Armstrong  Academy;" 
"Rev.  Mr.  Potts,  Superintendent. 


SELF-DENYING  MISSIONARIES.  199 

The  labors  of  these  men  are  not  confined  to  the  schools, 
but  each  is  "  doing  the  work  of  an  evangelist,"  laboring  for 
the  moral  and  spiritual  welfare  of  all  the  people,  and  each 
effectively  in  his  place.  Rev.  Mr.  Kingsbury  was  the  patri- 
arch of  the  whole,  and  exerted  an  excellent  religious  influ- 
ence at  Doaksville,  Fort  Towson,  and  the  surrounding 
country,  greatly  revered  and  loved  by  all.  Mr.  Wright  was 
the  most  competent  and  practiced  translator.  Mr.  Byington 
had  acquired  almost  the  appearance  and  habits  of  a  Choc- 
taw,  and  was  incessant  in  personal  efforts.  Mr.  Hotchkin 
had  just  returned  from  the  East  with  a  re-enforcement  of  lay 
helpers  and  teachers,  fourteen  in  number,  nine  of  whom  were 
unmarried  females  from  Lowell,  Massachusetts,  and  other 
places  ;  all  seemingly  in  the  spirit  of  their  work  and  compe- 
tent for  it.  These  men  had  up  to  that  time  served  the  Board 
a  lifetime  without  salary,  simply  receiving  a  meager  sub- 
sistence. After  the  national  appropriations  were  made, 
small  salaries  were  allowed  them.  Mr.  Kingsbury  had  the 
immediate  charge  of  Chu-wa-la  Female  Seminary  at  Pine 
Ridge,  a  few  miles  distant  from  the  Fort.  Here  I  passed  a 
night  in  one  of  the  most  comfortable  of  the  missionary 
associations  of  my  life,  in  the  company  of  Rev.  Messrs. 
Kingsbury,  Wright,  Byington,  Messrs.  Copeland  and  Potter, 
and  Colonel  Pitchlyn. 

I  will  not  pass  by  an  incident  of  "  Father  Kingsbury," 
related  with  some  zest  by  his  neighbors  on  this  side  of  the 
Nation.  This  veteran  missionary  was  of  small  stature, 
unimposing  in  outward  appearance,  and  with  a  deformed 
foot,  which  caused  quite  a  halt  in  his  gait ;  but  possessed  of 
qualities  of  mind  and  heart  which  commanded  the  respect 
and  won  the  affection  of  all.  It  chanced  that  during  the 
year  18 — ,  a  certain  prelate  of  the  "true  succession"  hav- 
ing a  diocese  east  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  formed  the  pur- 
pose of  "  visiting  the  Churches  "  on  the  frontier,  in  company 
with  an  attending  clergyman,  formerly  an  army  officer. 
Theirs  being  the  "religion  of  the  army,"  by  custom  and 
governmental  patronage,  a  ready  access  was  of  course  had  to 


200  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

the  military  posts ;  they  were  caressed  at  the  garrisons  and 
forwarded  on  with  escort  from  place  to  place.  On  their 
return,  the  clergyman  attending  published,  in  a  periodical  of 
"the  Church,"  a  lengthy  account  of  the  tour,  with  various 
incidental  statements  and  remarks,  which,  when  they  met 
the  eye  of  real  frontier-men,  were  regarded  as  not  savoring 
of  much  liberality  of  feeling,  nor  indeed  of  very  mature 
judgment  on  the  part  of  the  writer,  as  well  as  partaking  con- 
siderably of  the  affected  supercilious.  This  incident  having 
been  omitted  by  him,  with  sundry  other  little  details  current 
in  the  country,  I  supply  the  deficiency  by  giving  it. 

At  the  garrison  at  Fort  Towson  \vas  a  certain  officer 
attached  to  the  staff,  whose  name  I  will  not  give,  a  man  of 
great  vivacity  and  fine  social  qualities,  but  possessing  a  high 
veneration  for  religious  and  ministerial  character,  and  espe- 
cially for  that  of  "Parson  Kingsbury."  Social  affinities 
soon  made  the  Bishop  and  the  officer  agreeable  companions, 
and  leisure  hours  were  spent  together  in  such  entertainments 
as  were  mutually  congenial.  On  one  occasion,  as  the  story 
goes,  the  venerable  Bishop  and  the  jolly  officer  were  seated 

together  enjoying  a  social  game  of ,  when,  looking  out  at 

his  window,  the  officer  saw  the  revered  old  missionary  limp- 
ing up  toward  his  door.  "Have  these  away,"  said  he, 
hastily,  "Parson  Kingsbury  is  coming."  The  good  Bishop 
demurred,  but  despite  his  remonstrances,  the  implements  of 
the  game  were  gathered  up,  hurried  away  into  concealment, 
and  hasty  arrangements  made  for  a  grave  and  becoming 
reception  of  the  pious  parson.  Whether  this  was  wholly 
the  result  of  respect  and  veneration  for  consistent  piety,  or 
whether  there  may  have  been  mixed  up  with  this  motive  a 
mischievous  purpose  to  play  off  a  trick  upon  his  prelatical 
companion,  has  not  transpired.  So  it  was,  this  "Right 
Reverend"  dignitary  of  "the  Church"  was  compelled  to 
cower  before  the  simple,  unaffected  piety  of  a  little,  old, 
club-footed,  Presbyterian  missionary.  Such  is  true,  con- 
sistent piety ;  such  is  Christian,  ministerial  dignity  every- 
where ;  and  the  effects  will  follow. 


NOBLE   MISSIONARIES.  201 

On  returning  to  the  States  after  a  long  absence — 1859 — 
I  have  learned  that  the  American  Board  has  withdrawn  all 
appropriations  from  their  missions  among  the  tribes  of 
Southern  Indians,  in  consequence  of  the  alleged  complicity 
of  the  missionaries  with  the  sin  of  slavery.  It  was  gratify- 
ing, however,  to  learn  further  that  the  missionaries  had 
refused  to  abandon  their  flocks,  although  stripped  of  tem- 
poral support.  Venerable  men  !  for  a  third  of  a  century 
exiling  themselves  from  society ;  serving  the  Board  without 
fee  or  remuneration,  save  a  meager  subsistence,  and  that 
subsistence  now,  in  the  days  of  age  and  feebleness,  cut  off. 
Noble  old  men  !  refusing  to  leave  "these  sheep  in  the  wil- 
derness," the  spiritual  children  that  God  had  given  them  ;  to 
forsake  an  affectionate  people  struggling  for  a  higher  life  of 
civilization  and  Christianity ;  and,  for  the  result,  casting 
themselves,  naked  and  penniless,  upon  the  providence  of 
God.  Devoted  servants  of  Christ !  toil  on ;  make  your 
graves  among  the  children  of  the  forest.  Hence  to  arise 
will  be  glorious.  Possibly,  after  all,  final  results  may 
demonstrate  that  these  men,  from  a  long  period  of  actual 
contact  and  experience,  understood  the  question  involved 
better  than  the  functionaries  who,  at  a  cautious  distance, 
kept  in  their  hands  the  "sinews  of  war;"  and  who,  for 
years,  have  held  over  them  the  rod  of  withdrawal. 

My  interesting  and  profitable  visit  to  this  part  of  the 
Nation  being  ended,  I  took  leave  of  my  kind  missionary 
friends  on  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  November,  and  set 
out  from  Pine  Ridge  for  Fort  Washita  and  the  Chickasaw 
country.  In  my  company  was  Mr.  Potter,  a  lay  mission- 
ary, and  a  brave  Ohio  girl,  one  of  the  new  recruits,  on  her 
way  to  take  part  in  the  labors  of  one  of  the  missions  of  the 
extreme  frontier.  I  recur  again  to  my  published  series  over 
date  of  "Fort  Washita,  Chickasaw  Nation,  December  2, 
1844  :" 

"A  ride  of  eighty  miles  has  brought  me  from  Fort  Tow- 
son  to  Fort  Washita.  On  the  way  I  had  the  privilege  of 
visiting  Koonsha  Female  Seminary,  one  of  the  Choctaw 


202  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

institutions  under  the  care  of  the  American  Board;  Rev. 
Mr.  Hotchkin,  Superintendent.  Mrs.  H.  is  a  fine  model  of 
female  enterprise  and  persevering  devotion  to  the  cause  of 
missions  ;  superintending,  in  the  absence  of  her  husband, 
all  the  affairs  of  the  mission  school,  farm,  building  opera- 
tions, etc.  The  new  recruits  seem  in  good  spirits. 

"Mrs.  H.  thought  it  would  not  do  for  the  evening  to  pass 
unimproved.  So,  after  the  evening  meal,  all  repaired  to  the 
school-room,  and  we  had  a  comfortable  season  of  worship, 
while  I  spoke  of  the  '  blessedness '  of  the  man  '  that  trust- 
eth  in  God.'  In  the  morning  I  was  aroused  by  the  cheerful 
voice  of  our  hostess,  partook  of  refreshment,  and  was  off 
long  before  reveille." 

It  was  now  Autumn  or  early  Winter.  Nature  had  put 
off  her  gay  attire,  and  the  gorgeous  Summer  dress  of  the 
southern  prairies  was  exchanged  for  the  graver  aspects  of 
the  season.  The  extract  goes  on :  "  The  route  up  [Red 
River]  lies  mostly  through  extensive  prairies,  there  not 
being  altogether  perhaps  five  miles  of  timber  in  the  last 
sixty.  To  one  who  has  never  beheld  the  richness  of  west- 
ern scenery  it  is  hard  to  conceive  of  its  beauty.  Nature 
stands  forth  in  primeval  grandeur,  simple,  majestic,  unsub- 
dued ;  and  he  who  can  fail  to  admire  must  be  *  either  more 
or  less  than  a  man.'  The  rich  material  which  is  here  found 
for  the  pencil  would  well  repay  an  amateur  in  that  science 
for  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic." 

At  the  same  time  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  there  is 
in  prairie  traveling  a  sense  of  loneliness  unknown  else- 
where. The  vast  unbounded  expanse  around  ;  the  absence, 
at  times,  from  the  sight,  for  hours  together,  of  any  living 
thing  save  the  animal  you  ride  ;  the  deep,  pervading  silence 
that  reigns  all  around ;  all  these  are  calculated  to  make  an 
impression  of  one's  solitariness  and  utter  insignificance  in 
the  scale  of  creation.  Few  places  are  so  friendly  to  reflec- 
tion and  meditation.  During  the  second  clay  I  was  parted 
from  my  traveling  companions,  and  pursued  my  journey 
alone. 


CAPTURE   OF  TOM   STARR.  203 

The  extract  proceeds :  "I  am  now  seated  in  the  hospita- 
ble dwelling  of  Colonel  Upshaw,  United  States  Agent  for 
the  Chickasaws.  This  is  the  ultima  thule  in  this  direction, 
there  being,  from  the  best  information  accessible,  not  a 
single  white  family  between  my  present  position  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Within  a  mile  of  this  Agency  is  Fort 
Washita.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  '  Faux  Ouachita '  or 
False  Washita  River,  near  which  it  stands,  [so  called  to 
distinguish  it  from  another  tributary  of  Red  River,  lower 
down,  known  as  Washita  River.]  It  is  within  the  Chicka- 
saw  District  of  the  Choctaw  Nation,  and  was  established  in 
1842  to  protect  the  Chickasaws  against  the  incursions  and 
depredations  of  the  wild  tribes  of  roving  Indians  that  are 
just  upon  the  border.  This  post  occupies  a  commanding 
position  also  with  respect  to  Mexico  and  Texas. 

"  Colonel  Upshaw  has  lately  returned  from  an  expedition 
upon  the  plains,  undertaken  by  direction  of  the  War  De- 
partment, to  the  Wichetaw  villages,  accompanied  by  two 
officers  and  fifty  dragoons  from  the  garrison.  The  object 
was  to  recover,  if  possible,  two  captive  white  children,  said 
to  be  in  their  possession.  He  was  absent  near  a  month, 
and  explored  the  country  for  some  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  but  failed  to  accomplish  the  rescue. 

"  I  arrived  at  Fort  Washita  on  the  30th  ultimo.  [The 
officer  then  in  command  was  Colonel  Harney,  since  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  Brigadier-General,  snd  for  years  so 
prominently  before  the  public.]  On  the  same  evening  a 
party  of  Cherokees  came  in,  bringing  with  them  the  person 
of  an  Indian  named  Tom  Starr,  one  of  the  notorious  three 
of  that  name,  two  brothers  and  a  cousin,  who  had  rendered 
themselves  famous  by  the  murder  of  Vore  and  family,  [be- 
fore spoken  of,]  and  a  series  of  outrages  that  had  made 
them  a  reproach  to  the  Cherokee  name,  and  a  terror  to  their 
own  Nation  and  others.  They  had  spent  their  time  chiefly 
among  the  wild  tribes  beyond  the  reach  of  their  pursuers, 
occasionally  visiting  the  Nation,  plundering  and  burning 
in  the  most  daring  and  lawless  manner.  The  party,  headed 


204  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

by  Daniel  Goody,  a  brave  Cherokee,  came  in  sight  of  him 
near  one  of  his  harboring-places,  about  fifteen  miles  from 
the  Fort.  Before  he  had  discovered  them  he  had  advanced 
on  horseback  within  fifty  yards  of  their  position.  He  at- 
tempted to  wheel  and  escape.  Goody  fired,  and  was  fol- 
lowed in  quick  succession  by  the  others.  Of  ten  shots,  six 
took  effect,  three  upon  his  person,  and  three  upon  his  horse. 
He  fell,  badly  wounded,  was  placed  upon  a  horse  and 
brought  into  the  Fort.  The  officers  in  command  advised 
them  at  once  to  hang  him  up,  according  to  the  provisions 
of  the  code  so  extensively  practiced  upon  of  late  by  our 
neighbors  of  the  States,  [and  in  which  the  gallant  Colonel 
himself  was  not  wholly  unpracticed,]  assuring  them  that 
they  would  do  themselves  '  immortal  honor.'  But  this 
was  a  lesson  in  civilization  which  they  had  not  yet  taken — 
and  the  obstinate  '  savages '  preferred  to  await  the  process 
of  law.  [He  was  left  at  the  Fort,  and  soon  after  died  of 
his  wounds.] 

"  Soon  after  my  arrival,  which  was  on  Saturday  after- 
noon, Colonel  Upshaw  addressed  a  note  to  Colonel  Harney, 
at  the  garrison,  informing  him  of  my  presence,  and  stating 
that,  if  desired,  there  would  be  preaching  the  next  day;  at 
the  same  time  giving  him  an  item  of  political  intelligence, 
of  which  I  happened  to  be  the  bearer,  [the  election  of  Mr. 
Polk  to  the  Presidency.]  A  reply  was  immediately  received, 
that  a  room  should  be  prepared  for  Divine  service,  and  that, 
'  in  consequence  of  the  very  gratifying  intelligence  brought 
by  Mr.  G./  he  would  perhaps  come  and  hear  him  himself. 

"The  hour  arrived  on  the  Sabbath.  The  church-call  was 
sounded  upon  the  bugle,  the  force  being  entirely  composed 
of  cavalry.  We  obeyed  the  summons.  I  had  endeavored 
to  frame  a  shaft  for  the  Colonel  himself;  to  inform  him 
and  the  audience  that  I  had  an  item  of  intelligence  to  an- 
nounce, of  far  greater  interest  and  importance  than  the 
result  of  any  mere  political  conflict.  But  the  Colonel  was 
not  there  ;  he  had  politely  escorted  me  to  the  door,  and  then 
turned  away.  Others  were  there,  however,  and  among 


PREACHING   IN   THE   BARRACKS.  205 

them  some  that  I  thought  feared  God  and  loved  his  Word. 
And  there,  in  the  quarters  of  common  soldiers,  surrounded 
by  glistening  armor,  we  worshiped  God  in  comfort,  and 
realized  his  presence,  while  I  pressed  the  inquiry,  'Why 
will  ye  die  ?'  The  place  is  wicked,  but  the  officers  are  ex- 
ceedingly courteous.  Colonel  Harney  invites  me  to  occupy 
a  room  in  his  quarters  during  my  stay.  Brother  Duncan, 
our  Chickasaw  missionary,  says  that  their  kindness  and  lib- 
erality have  been  such  as  to  render  him  perfectly  bankrupt 
in  politeness.  He  takes  care,  however,  to  tell  them  that  all 
their  generosity  will  not  satisfy  him,  nor  save  them,  with- 
out a  personal  yielding  of  their  hearts  to  God.  But,  alas  ! 
they  'know  not  the  day  of  their  visitation.' " 


206  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

A     WEEK     AMONG    THE     CHICKASAWS. 

ON  arriving  at  Fort  Washita,  I  found  myself  disap- 
pointed as  to  the  time  at  which  I  should  meet  the  Chick- 
asaws  in  Council.  The  United  States  Agent,  however, 
informed  me  that  he  considered  it  unsafe  to  pursue  my  con- 
templated journey  alone,  owing  to  repeated  murders  and 
robberies  on  that  route  of  late,  and  urged  me  to  remain  till 
the  assembling  of  the  Council.  I  accordingly  stopped  for 
a  week  longer,  hoping,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  to  effect 
some  good  within  the  time,  and  at  its  close  to  find  company 
on  my  way  homeward. 

I  have  before  spoken  of  the  residence  of  the  Chickasaws 
upon  the  Choctaw  lands.  Another  extract  from  my  pub- 
lished series  will  present  their  situation  more  fully.  It  bears 
date,  "  Chickasaw  Mission,  December  5,  1844  :" 

"The  Chickasaws  are  in  number  about  four  thousand. 
They  emigrated  from  Mississippi  in  1838.  Being  allied  to 
the  Choctaws  in  language  and  customs,  they  sought  a  home 
among  them  in  the  West.  A  compact  was  formed  between 
them,  by  which  the  Choctaws  granted  to  them  a  district  of 
country  in  the  south-west  of  their  Nation,  reaching  west  to 
the  United  States  line,  over  which  they  were  to  have  exclu- 
sive jurisdiction  for  local  purposes  ;  they  at  the  same  time 
constituting  an  integral  part  of  the  Choctaw  Nation,  and 
being  represented  in  their  National  Council,  and,  for  all 
general  purposes,  subject  to  their  laws  and  regulations. 
The  compact  secures  to  the  Chickasaws  the  right  of  settling, 
if  they  desire  it,  in  any  part  of  the  Choctaw  country. 
They  retain,  also,  in  their  own  hands,  the  management  of 
their  own  fiscal  concerns,  school  regulations,  etc.  In 


CHICKASAW   GOVERNMENT.  207 

return  for  this  grant,  the  Chickasaws  assigned  over  to  the 
Choetaws  half  a  million  of  dollars  of  the  funds  due  them 
from  the  United  States  Government ;  and  the  Government 
has  vested  the  amount  in  five  per  cent,  stocks  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Choetaws,  the  annual  product  of  which  constitutes 
one  principal  source  of  income  to  the  Choctaw  people. 

"In  consequence  of  the  option  granted,  as  above,  many 
of  the  Chickasaws,  probably  more  than  one-half,  have  set- 
tled without  the  bounds  of  their  own  district.  The  Chief 
and  Commissioners,  who  constitute  the  legal  authority  under 
the  treaty  with  the  United  States,  reside  within  the  district; 
while  the  '  King,'  who  is  still  struggling  to  keep  up  the 
old  form  of  government,  and  whose  authority  some  are  in- 
clined to  uphold,  lives  without  its  bounds.  The  Chicka- 
saws possess  more  public  and  private  wealth,  in  proportion 
to  their  numbers,  than  any  other  tribe  of  Western  Indians. 
In  consequence,  however,  of  their  large  indebtedness,  their 
annuities  have  been  withheld  since  their  removal  till  the 
present  year.  Sixty  thousand  dollars  is  now  in  the  hands 
of  their  Agent,  to  be  disbursed  per  caput  among  men, 
women,  and  children.  To-day  is  the  time  fixed  for  opening 
the  payment.  Large  arrangements  are  being  made.  A  new 
Council-House  has  been  erected ;  boarding-houses,  cabins, 
sheds,  shanties,  are  going  up  as  if  by  magic.  All  want  a 
share.  Some  come  to  obtain  a  part  by  collecting  debts, 
some  by  selling  goods,  some  by  boarding  establishments, 
some  by  gaming ;  while  others,  probably,  may  be  plotting 
deeds  of  murder  and  robbery,  which  have  not  been  unfre- 
qncnt  on  some  of  the  leading  routes  in  this  section,  In  the 
midst  of  all  this  bustle  and  confusion,  my  worthy  friend, 
brother  Duncan,  the  Chickasaw  missionary,  is  quietly  look- 
ing on,  and  thinking  what  an  admirable  arrangement  here 
will  be  for  a  camp  meeting  next  Summer ;  an  idea  which,  I 
find,  meets  a  hearty  response  from  some  pious  souls,  who, 
even  here,  are  found  ready  to  spend  their  labors  and  their 
substance  for  the  promotion  of  the  cause  of  God. 

"Intelligence  is  just  received  which  may,  it  is  thought, 


208  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

interfere  with  the  payment,  if  not  prevent  it,  for  the  present. 
The  King,  displeased  that  the  summons  which  brings  the 
people  together  should  have  been  given  by  the  Chief,  instead 
of  himself,  has  issued  his  mandate  to  his  subjects  forbidding 
their  assembling  at  the  time  and  place  appointed,  and  enjoin- 
ing them  to  await  his  orders.  So  we  shall  have  a  test  of  the 
comparative  loyalty  to  '  His  Majesty '  and  deference  to  the 
new  authorities.  I  opine,  however,  that  the  jingle  of  Uncle 
Sam's  dollars  will  have  much  to  do  in  sustaining  the  party 
that  makes  the  first  call.  The  Chief,  Col.  Albison,  is  a  man 
of  intelligence,  while  the  King  is  a  mere  cipher,  completely 
under  the  influence  of  a  few  prominent  men  who  reside  out 
of  the  district,  and  seek  to  use  his  authority  to  further  their 
own  private  views."  Having  never  stood  in  the  presence 
of  a  crowned  head,  I  had  some  curiosity  to  look  upon  this 
"sprig  of  royalty,"  but  in  this  was  disappointed. 

The  letter  continues:  "The  wealth  of  the  Chickasaws 
consists  principally  in  slaves.  In  most  instances  they  are 
kind  masters,  and  live  on  terms  of  familiarity  with  them ; 
but  many  of  them  can  scarcely  keep  their  slaves  and  them- 
selves from  suffering  for  want  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 
Here  and  there  is  a  shrewd,  calculating  man  who  acquires 
wealth.  Some  of  them  are  extensive  cotton-planters.  They 
are  generally  intelligent,  mild,  and  interesting  ;  and,  with  the 
domestic  skill  of  their  slaves,  they  live  comfortably.  I  am 
always  pleased,  when  traveling,  to  know  that  I  am  to  lodge 
with  a  Chickasaw  family. 

"  There  are  but  few  professors  of  Christianity  among  them. 
I  think  but  little  missionary  effort  has  been  expended  upon 
this  people.  Perhaps  it  may  be  owing  to  this,  that,  even 
among  the  more  intelligent,  there  exists  a  strong  attachment 
to  the  ancient  heathen  customs.  An  instance  :  A  young  man 
lately  died  in  one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  influential  fami- 
lies. He  was,  according  to  their  ancient  usage,  interred 
under  his  dwelling,  dressed  in  a  rich  and  costly  suit ;  and  in 
his  grave  were  deposited  articles  of  value  which  he  had  car- 
ried about  his  person,  such  as  his  gun,  fine  gold  watch,  sad- 


CHICKASAW   MISSION.  209 

die,  bridle,  blankets,  etc.,  with  a  supply  of  sugar,  coffee,  tah- 
ful-lah — sour  hominy — and  all  other  things  deemed  needful 
for  his  journey  to  another  world.  Still  the  people  receive 
the  Gospel  willingly,  treat  the  missionary  with  great  kind- 
ness, and  are  anxious  for  schools.  The  United  States 
Agent  is  favorably  disposed  to  our  institutions. 

"On  the  2d  inst.  Col.  Upshaw,  after  his  morning's  fox- 
chase  was  over,  kindly  accompanied  me  to  our  mission 
station  established  last  year,  which  has  been  appropriately 
named  'Pleasant  Grove.'  It  occupies  an  elevated  position, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  Fort,  some  miles  distant,  and  in 
some  directions  a  prospect  of  thirty  miles.  Here  again  it  is 
gratifying  to  find  Methodism  in  the  van,  this  being,  so  far 
as  my  knowledge  extends,  the  most  westerly  mission  station, 
occupied  by  any  denomination,  on  this  side  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains. Here  brother  Duncan  has  hoisted  the  missionary  Hag, 
and,  with  his  meager  appropriation,  is  battling  for  the  cause  ; 
apparently  well  satisfied,  except  that  now  and  then  he  lets 
drop  a  wish,  to  be  '  a  little  further  out ;'  he  dislikes  to  be 
'  crowded,'  and  sees  some  '  fine  fields  '  down  on  the  Trinity  in 
Texas,  or  elsewhere,  that  he  would  like  to  occupy.  He  is  a 
very  Daniel  Boone  in  our  ranks.  Sister  D.  also  seems  con- 
tented and  happy.  Their  little  school  is  highly  prized  by 
the  natives,  being  the  only  one  in  the  Chickasaw  district. 
Here  also  I  had  the  happiness  to  meet  with  good  brother 

,  formerly  a  local  preacher  within  the  bounds  of  my 

last  field  of  labor  in  North  Indiana,  now  employed  upon  a 
frontier  circuit  in  Texas.  He  is  alone  and  feeble,  but  I  have 
learned  that  God  is  greatly  blessing  his  labors. 

"  Here  we  have  had  the  privilege  of  uniting  with  a  few 
natives  and  others  in  brother  D.'s  first  missionary  concert, 
and  on  the  extreme  of  our  mission  field  joining  our  voices  in 

'  See  how  great  a  flame  aspires, 
Kindled  by  a  spark  of  grace,'  etc. 

On  the  Sabbath  I  had  an  opportunity  of  proclaiming  the 
:  Gospel  of  the  kingdom.'  " 

18 


210  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

In  a  few  days  almost  the  entire  Chickasaw  Nation  was 
convened,  and  the  payment  proceeded,  presenting  a  scene 
quite  similar  to  that  described  at  Fort  Towson,  except  that 
the  larger  amounts  paid  out  here  created  a  deeper  interest, 
and  led  to  more  numerous  and  deep-laid  plans  to  get  hold 
of  the  "Indians'  money."  In  this  instance,  however,  a 
large  proportion  of  their  annuity  was  taken  home  by  them 
to  the  defeat  and  mortification  of  the  whites  whose  avari- 
cious designs  had  brought  them  to  the  scene. 

During  the  time  that  they  were  assembled  a  snow  of  some 
inches  fell,  the  only  one  that  I  saw  during  my  residence  in 
the  country.  It  was  still  lying  upon  the  mountains  as  I 
returned  home.  The  weather  became  cold  for  the  climate, 
and  considerable  suffering  was  experienced  by  the  Indians  in 
their  exposed  condition. 

The  principal  object  of  my  visit  to  the  Chickasaw  Council 
was  to  confer  with  them  upon  educational  matters,  and  to 
influence  them  to  appropriate  some  portion  of  their  large 
national  income  to  educational  purposes.  On  conferring 
with  them,  I  found  them  inclined  to  look  favorably  upon 
the  proposal.  I  accordingly  drew  up  for  the  Council  an  act 
similar  in  the  main  to  our  own,  but  with  such  modifications 
and  additions  as  experience  suggested.  The  act  provided  for 
the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  a  seminary  of  learning, 
•to  be  known  as  Chickasaw  Academy,  and  placed  under  the 
care  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  A  fund  was  pro- 
vided for  building,  and  in  addition  to  this  the  sum  of  six 
thousand  dollars  a  year  for  twenty  years  was  appropriated 
for  the  support  of  the  institution. 

The  proposal  was  not  finally  acted  upon  before  my  leav- 
ing. A  short  time,  however,  after  my  arrival  at  home  I  was 
notified  by  letter  that  the  act  had  been  passed  by  the  Council. 
It  subsequently  was  ratified  by  the  Department  at  Washing- 
ton and  carried  into  effect.  I  believe  the  institution  is 
still — 1860 — in  successful  operation  in  the  hands  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South.  There  is  now  before  me 
a  letter  of  acknowledgment  from  the  Superintendent  of  our 


HOMEWARD   BOUND.  211 

Mission  Conference  for  services  rendered  in  the  establishment 
of  the  Chickasaw  Academy,  dated  January  23,  1845. 

The  objects  contemplated  in  my  stay  being  accomplished, 
and  having  met  with  company,  on  the  9th  of  December  I 
set  my  face  homeward.  The  first  day  I  traveled  to  Boggy 
Depot,  a  trading  post  among  the  Chickasaws.  On  leaving 
the  annuity-ground,  a  trader  resident  at  the  place  had  in- 
vited me  to  call  and  tarry  for  the  night  at  his  cabin,  now 
vacated  by  his  absence,  and  to  direct  his  colored  woman, 
living  in  an  adjacent  cabin,  to  provide  for  me.  I  complied, 
leaving  my  company  to  seek  lodgings  elsewhere.  The  old 
negress  seemingly  knew  or  suspected  my  calling,  and  promptly 
set  about  the  work  of  preparation,  meanwhile  incessantly 
singing  hymns,  for  my  entertainment,  as  she  passed  cheer- 
fully about  her  employment.  Seldom  have  I  been  so  well 
and  so  unexpectedly  provided  for.  Years  have  passed  away, 
but  the  simple-hearted  kindness  of  the  pious  old  slave  has 
never  been  forgotten. 

At  this  place  I  met  with  a  white  man  of  some  intelli- 
gence, advanced  in  years,  who  had  spent  almost  his  entire 
life  among  Indians.  He  had  been  with  the  Delawares  in 
Indiana  previous  to  their  removal  West ;  had  ranged  the  un- 
broken forests  upon  White  River  and  Fall  Creek,  including 
the  site  where  Indianapolis  now  stands,  before  the  white 
settlements  were  made ;  then  had  gone  West  and  wandered 
among  the  different  tribes  up  to  that  time.  I  got  no  clew 
to  his  motives.  Different  causes  lead  men  to  abandon  civ- 
ilized society,  and  seek  a  refuge  among  savages.  Some  flee 
to  evade  punishment  for  crime ;  some  go  from  mercenary 
motives  of  pecuniary  gain ;  some,  of  low  and  depraved 
tastes  and  habits,  are  actuated  by  mere  social  affinity,  and  a 
desire  to  shake  off  the  restraints  of  cultivated  and  refined 
society ;  while  others,  no  doubt,  under  pressure  of  misfor- 
tune or  disappointment,  have,  in  an  hour  of  despondency, 
if  not  misanthropy,  doomed  themselves  to  a  life  of  per- 
petual exile. 

Our  second  day's  travel  brought  us  to  Brushy ;  the  third 


212  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

to  Fush-ma-line,  where  we  staid  with  an  Indian  named 
W^o-ni-pa.  On  the  12th  of  the  month,  after  a  day's  ride 
of  fifty-three  miles,  I  reached  Fort  Coffee,  thankful  for  my 
own  preservation  and  for  the  health  and  comfort  of  all 
under  my  charge.  How  welcome  to  the  toil-worn  mis- 
sionary is  a  cheerful,  smiling  home !  How  endearing, 
how  precious  the  society  of  wife  and  children  at  intervals 
snatched  from  his  work  !  The  sensations  of  that  partic- 
ular hour  remain  in  memory  to  this  day.  Think  not,  ye 
who  are  privileged  to  enjoy  home  and  domestic  comfort, 
that  we  value  these  scenes  and  associations  less  than  do 
others,  or  that  the  tender  ties  of  life  bind  us  less  strongly 
and  sweetly  than  yourselves.  "  The  love  of  Christ  con- 
straineth  us."  But  the  home-welcome  that  once  awaited 
the  writer  is  now  unknown,  and  the  smile  that  once  greeted 
him  at  the  threshold  he  will  no  more  meet  till  he  arrives  at 
the  heavenly  home. 

A  very  unquiet  state  of  things  prevailed  in  our  part  of 
the  Nation  at  this  time,  principally  resulting  from  an  in- 
creased consumption  of  ardent  spirits.  The  Choctaws  were 
butchering  each  other  at  an  alarming  rate.  Three  murders 
had  occurred  in  the  district  during  my  absence,  one  within 
a  mile  of  our  place.  On  my  way  home  I  turned  aside  from 
the  way  to  a  spot  where,  I  had  been  told,  lay  the  unburied 
remains  of  a  fellow-man,  said  to  have  been  a  Baptist 
preacher,  who  had  been  murdered  for  the  purpose  of  rob- 
bery. A  few  poles  had  been  carelessly  placed  around  his 
body  by  some  passers-by ;  the  flesh  had  been  eaten  from 
the  bones  by  animals  ;  fragments  of  garments  lay  around ; 
some  of  the  limbs,  severed  from  the  body,  had  been  dragged 
off  by  wild  beasts.  I  mournfully  gathered  up  the  bones, 
and  deposited  them  in  the  place  again,  to  save  them,  if 
possible,  from  further  violation,  and  turned  away,  inwardly 
saying  :  "  Alas,  my  brother  !" 

Shall  I,  at  the  termination  of  my  earthly  wanderings, 
find  a  grave  ?  or  shall  my  bones,  too,  bleach  and  molder  in 
some  forest  or  on  some  western  plain  ?  God  only  knows. 


WINTER   NORTH   AND   SOUTH.  213 

But  his  voice  shall  call  this  body  into  life  again,  with  every 
particle  essential  to  its  identity.  I  shall  "awake."  0, 
may  it  be  in  his  likeness  ! 

On  the  day  after  my  return,  being  midwinter,  the  ther- 
mometer at  Fort  Coffee  stood  at  80°.  Lovely  Winter 
climate !  How  does  it  contrast  with  the  bleak  winds  that 
now  howl  around  me  ! 


214  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

PRELIMINARIES    TO    A    RETURN. 

AFFAIRS  at  Fort  Coffee  had  now  assumed  a  settled  form, 
and  were  progressing  regularly  and  quietly,  but  with  little 
variety  of  incident.  A  daily  and  weekly  routine  of  labor, 
of  study,  of  stated  worship,  of  recreation,  and  of  rest  was 
pursued.  Our  institution  prospered,  our  farm  yielded  well, 
and  was  gradually  being  enlarged ;  the  authorities  and  peo- 
ple of  the  Nation  seemed  pleased  with  our  progress ;  we  had 
enough  to  supply  bodily  wants,  and  were  at  peace  with  the 
world. 

By  careful  economy  we  had  now  been  enabled  to  place 
our  finances  in  a  condition  which  we  thought  would  justify 
a  commencement  of  operations  in  view  of  our  female 
department.  This,  as  before  stated,  though  a  branch  of 
the  same  institution,  and  under  the  same  snperintendency, 
was  to  be  located  at  New  Hope,  about  five  miles  distant. 
The  separation  of  the  two  departments  was  the  act  of  the 
Council,  and  greatly  increased  our  labor  and  expenditure. 
It  was  determined,  however,  so  to  connect  the  interests  and 
labors  of  the  two  as  to  render  them  mutually  subservient  to 
each  other's  support  and  advancement.  I  accordingly  re- 
ceived proposals,  and  eventually  concluded  a  contract  for 
the  erection  of  two  buildings  for  the  Female  Department  at 
New  Hope,  each  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  adapted  to 
the  peculiar  character  and  wants  of  the  department.  As  it 
turned  out,  before  the  fulfillment  of  this  contract  my  con- 
nection with  the  institution  had  terminated  ;  but  the  build- 
ings were  erected  as  contemplated,  and  are  occupied,  I 
believe,  to  this  day — 1860. 

A  subject  of  deep  interest,  and  which  was  in  its  determina- 


APPROACH   OP   LOUISVILLE   CONVENTION.         215 

tion  materially  to  affect  our  future  course,  now  pressed  with 
great  weight  upon  our  minds.  The  situation  in  which  the 
affairs  of  the  Church  had  been  left  by  the  action  of  the 
General  Conference  of  1844 ;  the  subsequent  movement  of 
the  Southern  delegates  in  calling  a  Convention  from  all  the 
Conferences  in  slaveholding  territory,  to  meet  at  Louisville 
in  May,  1845,  and  the  very  uncertain  issue  of  the  delibera- 
tions of  that  body ;  all  contributed  to  place  us  in  an  unen- 
viable state  of  doubt  and  embarrassment. 

Upon  this  subject  brother  Benson  and  myself  fully  con- 
curred in  sentiment.  We  were  in  slave  territory,  surrounded 
by  strong  pro-slavery  influences,  both  in  Church  and  State. 
We  were  there,  not  by  our  own  act,  but  in  obedience  to  the 
economy  of  the  Church.  We  were  willing  to  live  and 
labor  on  slave  ground,  and  accommodate  ourselves  to  cir- 
cumstances ;  but  it  was  our  fixed  determination,  iu  the  event 
of  separation,  never  to  be  identified  with  a  pro-slavery 
Church.  We  were  remote  from  all  who  sympathized  Avith 
us  ;  had  none  with  whom  to  advise  ;  and  heard  and  knew 
nothing  of  the  movements  taking  place,  except  as  we 
learned  them  from  the  public  journals,  and  that  often  im- 
perfectly. A  heavy  charge  was  in  our  hands,  and  one  not 
to  be  lightly  or  suddenly  abandoned.  The  storm  of  perse- 
cution against  preachers  from  the  North  had  already  begun 
to  rage  in  the  State  below  us,  and  the  spirit  of  mob  violence 
to  exhibit  itself;  and  some  of  the  preachers,  lately  trans- 
ferred from  Northern  Conferences,  had  deemed  it  prudent 
already  to  retire.  How  long  to  remain  in  our  present  posi- 
tion, or  when  and  in  what  way  to  indicate  our  future 
course,  were  points  not  easily  settled.  The  question  was 
one  of  deep  thought,  frequent  conversation  between  our- 
selves, and,  I  trust,  of  earnest  supplication  for  the  Divine 
guidance ;  but  in  these  consultations  no  one  participated. 
We  mutually  agreed  in  the  opinion  that,  for  the  present,  we 
should  remain  where  we  were,  take  care  of  the  charge  com- 
mitted to  our  hands,  and  await  the  result  to  determine  our 
course. 


216  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

It  has  been  seen  that  the  Indian  Mission  Conference  had 
thought  proper  to  elect  me  as  one  of  their  delegates  to  that 
Convention  ;  that  this  had  been  done  without  seeking  to 
impose  any  trammels  either  by  pledges  or  instructions  ;  and 
that  I  had  submitted  to  be  so  elected.  The  whole  matter  at 
our  Conference  had  passed  off  with  but  few  words  publicly, 
or,  so  far  as  I  know,  privately.  It  had  then  been  my  pur- 
pose to  take  my  seat  in  the  Convention,  and  act  with  them 
so  far  as  I  could ;  but  should  they  determine  to  secede,  or  to 
perform  any  act  to  which  I  could  not  in  conscience  submit, 
then  formally  to  withdraw  from  the  body.  This  purpose  I 
entertained  for  a  time,  but  as  the  time  approached,  the  real 
design  and  final  issue  became  more  and  more  apparent.  I 
thought  I  saw  that  I  should  stand  alone,  be  placed  in  a 
scene  of  irritation  and  conflict,  painful  to  myself  and  pro- 
ductive of  no  good.  I  accordingly  resolved  not  to  take  a 
seat,  and  to  give  public  notice  to  that  effect.  The  following 
note,  announcing  my  intention,  was  forwarded  to  two  of 
the  Church  papers,  one  in  the  northern  section  of  our  work, 
and  the  other  in  the  southern  : 

"My  name  having,  in  connection  with  the  proceedings  of 
the  Indian  Mission  Conference,  appeared  in  your  paper  as 
one  of  the  delegates  elect  from  said  Conference  to  the  Con- 
vention of  Southern  ministers  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  to  be  held  in  Louisville,  Kentucky,  in  May  next, 
I  think  it  proper,  through  the  same  medium,  to  say  to  all 
concerned,  that  I  shall  not  appear  for  the  purpose  of  claim- 
ing a  seat  in  said  Convention,  or  in  any  wise  participating 
in  its  proceedings.  I  have  given  due  notice  of  this  my  in- 
tention to  Rev.  D.  B.  Gumming,  the  reserve  delegate.  The 
determination  herein  expressed  is  the  result  of  my  own 
personal  convictions  of  duty  and  propriety,  apart  from 
the  advice,  promptings,  or  influence  of  any  man  or  body 
of  men. 

"  WM.  H.  GOODE. 

"FoRT  COFFEE,  CHOCTAW  NATION,  FEB.  20,  1845." 


PREPARATIONS   FOR  THE  STORM.  217 

The  foregoing  note  appeared  in  the  Northern  paper  to 
which  it  was  sent,  but  was  suppressed  by  the  editor  of  the 
Southern ;  referring  to  it,  however,  in  an  editorial  notice 
which  conveyed  a  misrepresentation  of  facts. 

But  although  I  had  thus  declined  a  seat,  it  was  still  my 
purpose  to  be  present  and  personally  witness  the  action  of  the 
Convention,  understand  all  its  movements,  and  shape  my 
own  course  accordingly.  But  here  a  formidable  difficulty 
intervened.  A  wife  and  six  children  would  be  left  behind. 
What  storm  might  arise  on  hearing  of  my  intended  course 
in  the  now  probable  event  of  separation,  and  what  indigni- 
ties or  violence  they  might  be  exposed  to  in  my  absence, 
was  unknown.  The  State  of  Arkansas  lay  between  them 
and  the  Mississippi,  and  the  scenes  already  transpired  at  its 
capital  gave  warning  of  what  might  be  expected.  I  accord- 
ingly resolved  to  take  my  entire  family  with  me — the  seat 
of  the  Convention  being  among  kindred  and  near  the  scene 
of  former  labors — to  abide  the  result  of  the  action,  and,  at 
its  close,  be  governed  by  convictions  of  duty  as  to  a  return 
to  my  field  of  labor  or  a  final  severance  of  my  connection 
with  the  South. 

For  this  event  I  had  been  carefully  preparing  from  the 
commencement  of  our  Conference  and  fiscal  year.  The 
cloud  had  been  seen  rising,  and  I  was  aiming  to  be  in  a  con- 
dition to  meet  the  storm.  All  the  business  of  the  institution 
had  gone  on  as  though  no  change  were  to  take  place ;  and 
yet  affairs  were  kept  in  a  condition  to  meet  any  emergency. 
Duplicate  receipts  and  vouchers  had  been  taken  for  all  mon- 
eys paid  out ;  a  careful  copy  of  the  books  and  accounts  of 
the  institution  was  prepared,  and  matters  thus  kept  in  readi- 
ness to  have  with  me  the  means  of  final  settlement  at  any 
time  and  place ;  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  leave  behind  me 
a  complete  exhibit  of  the  affairs  of  the  concern. 

Other  minds  there  were,  and  those  of  prominent  Southern 
ministers,  that  were  exercised  similarly  to  my  own,  but  with 
lifferent  results.  The  complete  pall  of  Southern  influence 
lad  not  yet  been  thrown  over  them  ;  and  a  little  of  Hazael's 

19 


218  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

indignation  burned  in  their  bosoms.  An  instance  may  be 
given.  I  visited  a  quarterly  meeting  below  the  State  line. 
The  presiding  elder  was  present,  a  pious  man,  a  man  of 
peace,  a  brother  beloved.  He  had  been  in  the  General  Con- 
ference of  1844,  and  was  a  delegate  elect  from  Arkansas 
Conference  to  the  Louisville  Convention.  He  seemed  op- 
pressed in  mind,  and  freely  unburdened  himself  to  me  ;  told 
me  his  fears  of  the  action  of  the  Convention  and  of  its  re- 
sults ;  said  that  on  the  morning  on  which  he  had  left  his 
home,  his  own  aged  and  pious  father  had  come  to  his  house 
and  entreated  him  to  "have  nothing  to  do  with  the  Louis- 
ville Convention."  He  appeared  to  be  in  great  perplexity 
as  to  the  course  he  should  pursue,  and  sought  my  advice. 
I  urged  him  to  go  and  take  part  in  the  proceedings  ;  but  at 
the  same  time  informed  him  of  my  own  purpose  to  act  dif- 
ferently. This  excited  his  surprise.  I  explained.  "You," 
said  I,  "  are  a  Southern  man,  and  expect  to  remain  such ; 
to  be  connected  with  and  subject  to  the  new  organization, 
if  formed.  You  should  take  part,  and  use  your  influence  to 
shape  the  course  of  the  Convention.  The  counsels  of  moder- 
ate men  like  yourself  will  be  needed.  The  reverse  is  true 
of  myself.  I  am  a  Northern  man,  and  intend,  in  the  event 
of  separation,  to  abandon  the  South  and  claim  my  former 
home  and  Church  relations.  I  choose  to  have  nothing  to  do 
with  it."  He  went,  took  his  seat,  acted  with  them  through- 
out, and  has  been  led  along  by  degrees  till  he  has  become, 
as  I  learn,  a  zealous  advocate  of  the  peculiar  institution, 
and  a  stanch  defender  of  the  several  steps  of  pro-slavery 
progress  in  the  new  organization. 

Another  incident  to  the  same  point  I  anticipate,  occur- 
ring in  the  city  of  Louisville  at  an  early  stage  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  Convention.  Walking  a  street  of  the  city 
in  company  with  a  friend,  a  delegate  from  one  of  the  Con- 
ferences, the  conversation  turned  upon  the  pseudo-philan- 
thropic pretenses  of  the  advocates  of  slavery,  and  the  vari- 
ous pretexts  of  mercy  and  humanity  upon  which  they  seek 
to  justify  the  system.  My  friend  suddenly  cut  the  matter 


FISCAL   CONDITION  OF   INSTITUTION.  219 

short  by  saying,  with  emphasis,  "They  want  their  work." 
That  brother  is  now,  if  I  mistake  not,  snugly  seated  upon 
his  farm,  surrounded  by  slaves  owned  and  driven  by  him- 
self. Who  can  look  back  and  remember  what  the  sentiment 
and  feeling  of  the  great  body  of  Methodist  preachers  in  the 
South  was,  a  score  of  years  ago,  upon  this  subject,  and  not 

"  Blush,  and  bide  his  head  to  think  himself  a  man," 

at  this  exhibition  of  human  frailty  and  inconstancy  ? 

All  was  deliberately  arranged  for  our  departure.  The 
superintendency  of  the  concern  was,  for  the  time  being, 
placed  in  the  hands  of  the  presiding  elder  of  the  district, 
an  experienced  Indian  missionary,  and  one  deeply  in  the 
interests  of  the  South.  Funds,  books,  papers,  property, 
and  all  were  placed  under  his  control,  and  a  letter  of  au- 
thority, given  over  my  own  signature,  to  transact  all  neces- 
sary business  during  my  absence.  He  was  to  reside  at 
Fort  Coffee.  Meanwhile  brother  Benson,  aided  by  Mr. 
Brigham,  remained  in  charge  of  the  school ;  brother  B. 
having  accepted  his  appointment  at  the  preceding  Confer- 
ence, on  condition  that  he  should  be  permitted  to  leave  at 
any  time  during  the  year,  should  the  state  of  his  health 
require  it.  I  was  authorized  by  brother  B.,  in  the  event  of 
my  finding  it  necessary  to  ask  a  transfer  to  the  northern 
section  of  the  work,  to  make  the  same  request  for  him  also. 

It  was  my  fortune  to  leave  all  the  interests  of  the  institu- 
tion in  a  healthful  condition.  Our  school  was  prosperous, 
and  had  the  growing  confidence  of  the  Nation.  The  stu- 
dents were  subordinate,  learned  well,  and  some  gave  evi- 
dence of  piety.  The  buildings  of  the  female  department 
were  in  process  of  erection,  and  funds  were  on  hand  and 
accruing  to  meet  all  payments.  The  fiscal  concerns  of  the 
institution  were  in  a  good  state.  I  have  before  me  an  esti- 
mate of  the  effects  of  the  mission,  dated  September  20, 
1844.  At  that  time  the  property  of  the  institution  was 
estimated  at  five  thousand,  nine  hundred  and  fifty-five  dol- 
lars and  three  cents;  cash  on  hand,  three  thousand  and 


220  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

forty-six  dollars  and  thirteen  cents ;  total,  nine  thousand 
and  one  dollars  and  sixteen  cents.  I  have  no  similar  esti- 
mate of  later  date ;  but,  at  the  same  ratio  of  increase,  the 
total  assets  of  the  institution,  at  my  leaving,  must  have 
been  about  twelve  thousand  dollars.  This  had  all  been  a 
net  saving  from  our  income  after  defraying  all  expenses  of 
the  establishment. 

An  extract  from  a  letter  of  instructions  left  to  my  imme- 
diate successor,  who  was  temporarily  absent  when  I  left, 
will  give  some  further  exhibit  of  the  condition  of  the  insti- 
tution, and  of  our  general  method  of  conducting  our  busi- 
ness :  "I  have  settled  all  accounts,  and  paid  all  salaries  up 
to  this  date — March  1st.  The  institution  does  not,  to  my 
knowledge,  owe  a  dollar.  I  have  sent  to  New  Orleans, 
through  Mr.  H.,  for  a  supply  of  groceries  ;  the  money  is 
advanced.  All  the  material  for  Summer  clothing  [for  the 
Indian  boys]  is  on  hand,-  excepting,  perhaps,  some  light 
articles.  You  will  find  but  one  running  account  upon  the 
book,  that  of  the  building  contractors,  which  will,  of  neces- 
sity, remain  open  while  the  buildings  are  in  progress.  I 
think  it  best  to  make  as  few  as  possible.  ...  I  leave, 
as  I  suppose,  enough  money  on  hand  to  make  the  first  pay- 
ment on  the  New  Hope  buildings,  and  to  defray  all  expenses 
up  to  the  time  the  next  semi-annual  appropriation  will  be 
received." 

A  further  extract  from  the  same  letter  will  indicate  some- 
thing of  the  state  of  mind  realized  at  this  juncture :  "I  am 
leaving  home  with  rather  an  unusual  class  of  feelings.  The 
length  of  the  journey;  the  difficult  and  tedious  manner  in 
which  much  of  it  is  to  be  performed  ;  the  danger  to  a  fam- 
ily in  case  of  a  steamboat  accident,  now  so  frequent ;  all 
have  their  effect.  But  these  are  small  matters  compared 
with  the  present  gloomy  condition  of  the  Church.  It  is 
impossible  to  predict  the  issue.  Should  a  merciful  Provi- 
dence even  spare  our  lives,  still  you  and  I  may  meet  no 
more  on  earth.  You  will  not,  I  presume,  think  this 
remark  strange,  after  what  has  heretofore  been  said  between 


MENTAL  EXERCISES.  221 

ns.  ...  I  wish  to  leave  the  way  open  to  my  return. 
I  have  not,  to  my  knowledge,  done  any  thing  that  will 
hedge  up  my  way,  should  duty  require  it;  nor  do  I  intend 
to.  But  should  I  no  more  return,  I  hope  that  you  may  get 
a  better  man  in  my  place,  and  that  the  hlessing  of  God 
may  rest  upon  the  work.  I  shall  endeavor  to  act  in  the 
line  of  duty,  so  far  as  I  have  light.  I  commit  all  to  the 
Lord,  and  implore  his  direction.  I  have,  however,  in  view 
of  present  circumstances  and  probable  results,  declined 
serving  as  a  delegate,  and  notified  brother  Gumming  of  the 
fact.  It  is  still  my  purpose,  if  Providence  permit,  to 
attend  the  sittings  of  the  Convention,  and  see  what  course 
matters  take." 

The  Arkansas  River,  at  this  time,  was  at  a  very  low 
stage.  After  waiting  some  time  for  a  rise,  and  no  indica- 
tions appearing,  it  was  determined  to  relinquish  our  purpose 
of  going  by  water,  and  travel  by  land  to  Little  Rock,  or, 
if  need  required,  to  Rock  Roe,  on  White  River,  from  which 
place  down  to  the  Mississippi,  at  Montgomery's  Point, 
there  was  steamboat  navigation  at  all  seasons.  The  road 
was  long  and  dreary,  but  necessity  seemed  to  be  upon  us. 
A  large  road- wagon  and  a  strong  team  were  engaged  for 
the  transportation  of  the  family  and  light  baggage ;  for  at 
this  time  we  owned  but  few  pounds  of  personal  goods.  A 
pony  and  rifle  were  purchased  for  my  own  use,  and  all 
made  ready  for  a  start. 


222  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

TO   LOUISVILLE   VIA   NEW   ORL BANS— INCI DENTS  . 

THE  morning  of  Monday,  March  3,  1845,  witnessed  our 
departure  from  Fort  Coffee,  near  two  years  after  I  first 
placed  my  foot  upon  its  commanding  hights,  then  desolate 
and  dreary;  its  apartments  tenantless  and  gloomy;  every 
thing  in  a  state  of  dilapidation,  the  result  of  four  years' 
abandonment  since  evacuated  by  a  military  force ;  now 
smiling  in  beauty,  dedicated  to  the  Prince  of  Peace,  peo- 
pled with  cheerful  and  pious  inhabitants,  and  sending  forth 
the  streams  of  healthful  moral  and  intellectual  culture  into 
the  benighted  region  around. 

The  great  wagon  was  driven  into  the  area  ;  baggage  and 
camp  equipage  loaded  in  ;  leave  taken  ;  wife  and  children 
placed  on  board  ;  the  pony  mounted,  rifle  in  hand  ;  and  we 
took  up  the  line  of  march.  Soon  the  dense  forests  inter- 
cepted our  vision,  and  we  took  a  last  look,  as  it  proved  to 
be,  upon  the  noble  site  ;  a  spot  endeared  still  in  recollec- 
tion by  toils  and  struggles,  hopes  and  fears,  joys  and  griefs, 
shared  by  some  now  entered  into  rest,  and  by  others  still  on 
the  way. 

A  drive  of  a  few  hours  brought  us  to  Poteau  River. 
This  we  found  rising,  so  that  we  forded  it  with  difficulty; 
an  indication  of  rains  toward  its  source.  Hindered  thus, 
we  only  reached  Massard  Prairie,  a  few  miles  back  from 
Fort  Smith,  and  put  up  for  the  night.  During  the  night 
and  succeeding  day,  there  was  a  heavy  fall  of  rain  ;  such  as 
to  prevent  land  traveling  and  to  give  hopes  of  a  passage  by 
water ;  dismissed  teamster,  and  camped  for  a  season  in  a 
vacant  house  ;  rode  to  Fort  Smith,  and  found  the  river 
rising.  On  the  succeeding  day  I  removed  family  and  equi- 


COURTESIES  AT  LITTLE   ROCK.  223 

page  to  Fort  Smith,  and  procured  a  house  in  which  we  again 
camped,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  a  boat.  On  the  7th  my 
family  went  on  board  the  steamer  Archer,  Captain  Wood- 
ward, then  lying  at  Fort  Smith  Landing,  and  were  made 
comfortable.  Here  we  remained  four  days,  during  which 
time  the  heavy  rains  continued,  bringing  the  river  up  to  a 
fine  boating  stage. 

On  the  morning  of  the  llth  our  steamer  put  out,  bound 
for  New  Orleans ;  our  passage  being  taken  for  the  mouth 
of  Arkansas,  where  we  contemplated  taking  an  upward- 
bound  Mississippi  boat.  On  the  13th  we  reached  Littlo 
Rock,  and  spent  a  few  hours,  where  we  were  courteously 
waited  upon  by  several  ministerial  brethren,  and  a  number 
of  the  ladies  of  the  place,  who  accompanied  us  to  the  next 
landing,  manifesting  the  same  kind  feelings  that  had  been 
exhibited  during  the  long  detention  of  my  family  at  that 
place  in  1843  ;  though,  meanwhile,  their  amiable  young 
pastor  had,  under  pressure  of  mob  violence,  been  compelled 
to  vacate  his  place  and  seek  a  safer  and  more  genial  home. 
Had  they  known  all,  we  should  most  certainly  have  for- 
feited their  kind  attentions,  if,  indeed,  we  had  not  actually 
encountered  hostile  demonstrations.  But,  recognizing  no 
right  on  their  part  to  dictate  our  course,  or  even  to  be  put 
in  possession  of  our  individual  purposes,  and  knowing  no 
good  end  to  be  subserved  by  being  over-communicative ; 
and,  withal,  deeming  "discretion  to  be  the  better  part  of 
valor,"  we  forebore  to  spoil  the  pleasant  interview,  grate- 
fully receiving  their  kindness,  and  suffering  the  themes  to 
them  so  exciting  to  pass,  for  the  time,  unnoticed. 

Our  boat  was  one  of  medium  size,  plain,  well  built,  well 
furnished,  neat,  and  comfortable.  Our  captain  we  soon 
found  to  be  all  that  we  could  desire  ;  a  fine  contrast  with  a 
former  Mississippi  commander  heretofore  noticed.  For 
something  rare  in  a  waterman,  he  was  of  Quaker  origin 
and  rearing,  and  demonstrated  the  practicability  of  carrying 
their  system  of  "still"  and  gentle  control  into  effect  even 
upon  the  water.  Mild  and  courteous  in  his  address,  calm 


224  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

and  composed  in  all  his  movements,  never  speaking  in  a 
harsh  tone,  nor  even  loud,  unless  really  necessary,  he  main- 
tained an  influence  over  his  men  that  I  have  never  seen 
equaled  by  any  other  commander.  No  loud  or  harsh  talk- 
ing was  allowed  among  the  crew  ;  all  was  done  with  an 
order  and  quietness  that  would  he  deemed  impracticable. 

The  passage  down  the  Arkansas  was  slow,  although  the 
stage  was  fine  for  boating.  Much  of  each  day  was  spent  in 
taking  in  freight,  principally  bales  of  cotton  from  the  plant- 
ations on  the  banks,  and  at  night  we  "tied  up,"  it  being 
deemed  unsafe  to  run  at  night  in  the  downward  passage 
upon  this  river.  We  had  some  view  of  the  desolation 
caused  by  the  last  Spring's  overflow,  the  river  having  in 
many  places  changed  its  channel,  making  sad  havoc  of 
plantations  on  its  banks. 

The  leisure  afforded  by  our  frequent  detention  at  the  cot- 
ton plantations  presented  excellent  opportunity  of  convers- 
ing with  the  settlers,  and  looking  into  the  condition  and 
habits  of  the  planters  and  their  large  households,  an  exam- 
ination that  did  not  tend  much  to  prepossess  me  in  favor  of 
the  planter's  life,  much  as  it  is  admired  and  coveted  by 
many.  One  of  the  "  shippers  "  I  must  sketch.  He  took 
passage  with  us  and  went  down  to  New  Orleans  with  his 
crop  of  cotton,  to  dispose  of  it  in  person. 

He  was  grave  and  venerable  in  appearance  and  fond  of 
conversation ;  I  soon  made  his  acquaintance,  and  our 
whole  intercourse  was  agreeable.  I  found  him  to  be  an 
Englishman  by  birth,  about  fourscore  years  of  age,  a  Meth- 
odist, and  formerly  a  hearer  of  John  Wesley.  He  had 
traveled  much,  had  lived  in  different  parts  of  the  United 
States,  and  among  other  places  had  once  lived  and  owned  a 
mill  at  the  Falls  of  Ohio,  on  the  Indiana  side,  near  where 
Jeffersonville  now  stands.  1  personally  recollect  the  re- 
mains of  an  old  mill  which  long  ago  were  to  be  seen  near 
the  "head  of  the  shoot,"  and  which,  I  suppose,  may  have 
been  the  same.  His  name  has  escaped  recollection. 

He  had  at  last  settled  upon  a  plantation  upon  the  bank 


AN  OLD  SHIPPER — TRIBUTE  TO  FREEDOM.        225 

of  Arkansas,  possessed  himself  of  a  slave  force  and  was 
engaged  in  raising  cotton.  He  was  conscious  of  failure 
through  age  and  the  nearness  of  death,  and  regarded  his 
present  trip  to  New  Orleans  as  the  last  he  should  ever  make. 
He  was  intelligent  and  well  informed  in  matters  pertaining 
to  religious  doctrine  ancl  history,  and  in  all  his  wanderings 
he  seemed  to  have  maintained  the  spirit  of  piety,  but  was 
withal  a  stanch  supporter  of  Southern  rights  and  institu- 
tions. But  truth,  like  "  murder/'  at  times  "  will  out,"  so 
it  was  with  this  old  patriarch.  After  a  homily  at  one  time 
upon  slavery,  in  which  he  strongly  defended  it,  he  wound 
up  with  this  frank  acknowledgment,  founded,  it  seemed, 
upon  his  own  experience.  "But,  after  all,"  said  he,  "if  I 
would  enjoy  the  life  and  power  of  religion,  let  me  live  in  a 
free  State,"  a  sentiment  that  found  a  hearty  "  amen  "  in 
my  own  feelings,  and  which  I  carefully  noted  as  an  invol- 
untary tribute  to  the  inseparable  companionship  of  the 
spirit  of  true  religion  and  that  of  genuine  liberty.  So  true 
is  it  that  freedom,  like  "  godliness,  is  profitable  unto  all 
things."  Nearly  a  score  of  years  has  passed ;  I  know 
nothing  of  him  since.  Ere  this  probably  he  has  entered 
that  land  where  "the  servant  is  free  from  his  master." 

On  Saturday,  the  15th,  we  entered  the  Mississippi  at  Na- 
poleon. Here  we  had  intended  to  disembark  and  wait  for 
an  upward-bound  boat,  but  our  captain,  with  whom  we 
were  on  pleasant  terms,  kindly  tendered  ns  a  gratuitous 
passage  to  New  Orleans.  This  we  concluded  to  accept,  as, 
in  addition  to  the  desirableness  of  the  trip  itself,  we  should 
be  saved  from  a  disagreeable  stay  at  this  haunt  of  wicked- 
ness and  moral  degradation,  and  at  the  same  time  secure 
better  accommodations  up  by  taking  passage  upon  a  boat 
while  in  port.  Here  we  were  overtaken  by  our  friend  Mr. 
Brigham,  who  had  left  Fort  Coffee  some  time  after  we  did, 
and  had  a  speedy  passage.  He  too  determined  to  take  New 
Orleans  in  the  way,  and  his  company  down  and  then  up 
again  contributed  not  a  little  to  our  enjoyment  of  the  trip, 
especially  with  the  juniors  of  our  party. 


226  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

We  found  the  Mississippi  at  a  high  stage,  and  our  full 
freight  being  taken  in  we  glided  down  the  current  at  a 
rapid  rate.  Those  who  have  not  seen  a  full-freighted  Mis- 
sissippi cotton-hoat  would  scarcely  conceive  the  immense 
bulk  of  the  staple  that  is  stored  on  board.  Engine-room, 
guards,  boiler-deck,  hurricane  deck,  and  every  other  avail- 
able space  is  filled  with  cotton  bales  piled  up  to  a  great 
hight,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  passengers  by  circumscrib- 
ing their  ambulatory  limits.  And  then,  when  a  fire  breaks 
out  in  such  a  mass  of  combustible  matter,  what  a  scene  ! 
Those  who  have  witnessed  the  sight,  bale  after  bale  thrown 
overboard  in  a  flame,  or  -falling  one  after  another  from  the 
burning  wreck  as  she  floats  along,  and  spreading  out  in  the 
current  till  the  river  presents  a  scene  of  living  blaze,  de- 
scribe it-as  resembling  "  a  river  on  fire."  And  woe  to  the 
luckless  passengers  whom  such  a  calamity  befalls  !  One 
boat  was  burned  while  we  were  in  the  Mississippi.  A  con- 
stant guard  is  kept  to  prevent  accidents  of  this  kind. 
Many  times  during  our  downward  trip  our  freight  took  fire. 
When  on  the  deck,  or  any  accessible  place,  it  was  easily 
found  and  extinguished,  but  when,  as  repeatedly  occurred, 
fire  was  discovered  to  have  taken  in  the  vast  pile  of  bales 
stowed  away  in  the  engine-room  or  upon  the  lower  deck, 
much  time  and  effort  were  required  to  trace  it  out ;  mean- 
while no  little  trepidation  was  realized  by  all  who  knew  it. 
The  nasal  acuteness  of  the  ladies  in  the  cabin  generally  led 
to  the  first  discoveries  of  danger,  and  was  probably  the 
means  of  saving  the  boat  and  much  human  life. 

The  high  stage  of  water  elevating  us  above  the  levees  that 
line  the  banks  of  the  "  Father  of  Waters,"  gave  a  fine  pros- 
pect of  the  adjacent  country.  Cotton  farms,  sugar  planta- 
tions, negro  quarters,  tasty  residences,  and  beautiful  gardens 
presented  themselves  to  the  eye.  As  we  passed  south  we 
entered  rapidly  into  the  domains  of  Spring.  All  was  ver- 
dure. Live  oaks,  oranges,  Spanish  moss,  and  other  indica- 
tions of  a  southern  clime  appeared.  The  air  was  genial  and 
balmy.  We  enjoyed  the  change.  Still  we  found  it  in  our 


STAY   IN   NEW   ORLEANS.  227 

hearts  to  say,  with  Addison  in  one  of  the  letters  which  he 
wrote  from  Italy, 

"  We  envy  not  the  favored  land  that  lies 
In  ten  degrees  of  more  indulgent  skies, 
'T  is  liberty  that  crowns,"  etc. 

About  midnight,  on  the  17th,  we  landed  at  the  wharf  at 
New  Orleans,  after  a  safe  and  pleasant  passage  of  one  week 
from  Fort  Smith,  having  made  good  time  after  entering  the 
Mississippi.  On  the  morning  following  it  was  my  good 
fortune  to  meet  with  a  number  of  esteemed  friends  from  the 
"upper  country,"  in  whose  society,  with  that  of  some  city 
acquaintances,  a  few  days  passed  agreeably.  Among  them 
I  was  happy  to  find  my  old  friend  Rev.  0.  W.  Ruter,  then 
in  feeble  health,  and  seeking  temporary  respite  in  a  milder 
clime. 

The  juniors  of  our  company,  under  the  care  of  Mr. 
Brigham,  amused  themselves  with  an  excursion  to  Lake 
Pontchartrain.  Less  locomotive  in  my  own  feelings,  my 
attention  was  drawn  to  the  proceedings  of  the  Louisiana 
State  Convention,  then  in  session  in  the  city.  I  had  heard 
much  of  Southern  statesmanship,  Southern  eloquence,  and 
Southern  recklessness  ;  I  had  heard  and  read  much  of  the 
desperate  state  of  morals  in  the  Southern  emporium,  and  I 
supposed  that  I  should  be  able  in  a  short  space  to  learn 
more  of  New  Orleans  and  of  the  South  in  the  State-House 
'than  elsewhere.  Spending  some  time  there  I  found  myself 
happily  disappointed  in  the  general  appearance  and  bearing 
of  the  members  of  the  Convention.  I  met  a  grave,  digni- 
fied, and,  I  should  judge,  talented  body  of  men.  On  the 
desk  of  the  presiding  officer  lay  a  large  Bible.  The  session 
was  opened  by  a  fervent  and  evangelical  prayer  from  a  Bap- 
tist clergyman.  There  was  no  display  of  revolvers  and 
bowie-knives ;  there  were  no  inflammatory  speeches,  no 
infidel  sneers,  no  indecorous  deportment,  no  indication  of 
Catholic  rule.  All  was  appropriate  and  orderly.  The 
result  of  their  labors  was,  as  I  have  since  learned,  one  of  the 


228  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

best  State  Constitutions  of  the  Confederacy,  bating  its  con- 
formity to  the  institution  of  slavery. 

On  the  18th  I  took  my  family  on  board  the  steamer 
"James  Madison,"  and  about  six  o'clock,  P.  M.,  on  the 
19th,  we  were  under  way  on  our  upward  trip,  bound  for 
Louisville.  The  Madison  was  a  noble  Mississippi  steamer 
of  the  largest  class,  and  crowded  with  passengers  beyond 
her  power  of  accommodation.  The  captain  was  a  well- 
disppsed  man,  and  treated  us  with  civility ;  some  of  the 
crew  were  rough  and  unpleasant ;  the  passengers,  as  usual, 
were  a  mixed  crowd ;  the  vast  cabin  \vas  literally  filled  up 
with  gaming  tables  ;  and  we  were  subjected  to  the  annoy- 
ances common  to  families  traveling  upon  crowded  thorough- 
fares ;  but,  upon  the  whole,  our  passage  was  quite  as 
pleasant  as  is  common  under  similar  circumstances.  The 
river  was  still  high,  and  we  made  slow  time  against  the 
powerful  current.  No  incident  of  importance  occurred  on 
our  upward  trip  ;  and  on  the  morning  of  Friday,  March 
28th,  we  landed  at  Louisville,  safe  and  well,  thankful  to  a 
merciful  Providence  that  had  preserved  us  since,  at  this 
same  point,  we  committed  ourselves  to  him  and  embarked 
on  our  southward-bound  passage. 

A  month  was  yet  to  elapse  before  the  assembling  of  the 
Convention.  Meanwhile  some  labors  were  to  be  performed 
for  my  Fort  Coffee  charge.  Cincinnati  was  visited.  Build- 
ing material  and  other  needed  supplies  for  the  institution 
were  purchased  and  shipped.  Bishops  Morris  and  Hamline 
were  seen  and  consulted  as  to  the  course  to  be  pursued  in 
the  existing  crisis.  An  aged  parent,  then  in  the  course  of 
itinerancy  residing  at  Terre  Haute,  was  visited.  Brethren 
of  the  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Kentucky  Conferences  were  seen 
and  conferred  with,  and  many  precious  opportunities  enjoyed 
of  mingling  with  crowded  congregations  in  the  "house  of 
the  Lord,"  a  privilege  indeed  after  our  long  privation.  At 
the  approach  of  the  time  of  the  Convention  I  took  lodgings 
for  myself  and  family  in  Jeffersonville,  from  which  point  I 
might  attend  the  daily  sessions. 


LOUISVILLE   CONVENTION.  229 


CHAPTER   XXVII. 

LOUISVILLE    CONVENTION    AND    SEQUENCES. 

THE  first  day  of  May,  1845,  was  rendered  memorable  by 
the  assembling  of  the  Louisville  Convention  ;  a  body  whose 
acts  have  become  matter  of  history,  and  will  not  cease  to  be 
remembered  while  Methodism  shall  have  a  name  on  the 
earth ;  a  body  whose  movements  constitute  the  first  great 
act  of  ecclesiastical  severance  bearing  upon  our  momentous 
question  of  national  antagonism,  still  pending  with  fearful 
and  ominous  portents  over  the  American  people. 

The  Convention  and  its  doings  are  before  the  world,  and 
have  perhaps  already  occupied  a  sufficient  space  in  public 
attention.  It  is  not  my  design  to  comment  upon  the  pro- 
ceedings, except  as  incidentally  affecting  our  work  of  frontier 
missions  and  my  personal  relations  to  the  southern  depart- 
ment of  the  Church. 

The  ability  of  the  men  composing  the  body  is  admitted. 
Their  complete  subserviency  to  sectional  influences  and  in- 
stitutions, and  their  readiness  to  conform  Church  discipline 
and  administration  to  a  dominating  sectional  spirit,  are 
facts  before  the  world.  Among  them  were  men  of  piety, 
of  prayer,  and  of  moderation,  who  were  drawn  with  ex- 
treme reluctance  into  the  measures  of  the  body ;  while  th3 
larger  and  more  influential  class  were  urged  on  by  a  spirit 
that  ignored  all  results.  Some  were  grave  and  thoughtful, 
but  many,  especially  in  outdoor  associations  and  inter- 
course, treated  the  whole  subject  with  a  levity  ill-becoming 
a  body  of  men  acting  under  high  moral  and  religious  sanc- 
tions, and  performing  an  act  which,  though  in  their  judg- 
ment needful,  was  nevertheless  painful  in  a  high  degree. 
This  spirit  met  no  response  in  my  own  feelings.  I  felt  that 


230  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

a  tear  became  me  more,  and  was  more  consonant  to  my 
state  of  mind  than  a  smile.  Once  I  had  occasion  to  rebuke 
its  near  approach.  A  Southern  minister,  still  prominent 
among  them,  addressed  me  upon  the  steps  of  the  Conven- 
tion-room with  a  jest  and  a  laugh  in  connection  with  the 
subject  of  Church  division.  "Sir,"  said  I  in  substance, 
"yon  may  make  yourself  merry  over  events  that  are  taking 
place  ;  I  can  not — I  dare  not." 

The  esprit  de  corps  was  manifest  from  the  beginning,  and 
it  was  not  hard  to  predict  ihefinale.  Still  I  deemed  it  pru- 
dent to  await  further  developments  before  I  should  take 
any  decisive  step  myself.  All  the  principal  measures  of  the 
Convention  were  shaped  in  a  large  committee,  consisting  of 
about  one-third  of  the  body,  and  embracing  the  master- 
spirits, thus  securing  the  object  of  private  sessions,  and 
insuring  the  final  adoption  of  the  measures  agreed  upon  ; 
nominal  sessions  being  held  with  open  doors  where  much 
of  the  time  was  consumed  in  speeches  intended  for  the 
public  ear.  So  soon  as  any  measure  was  known  to  have 
been  agreed  upon  by  the  committee,  it  was  regarded  as 
virtually  adopted  by  the  body.  All  that  was  wanting  was 
a  formal  ratification. 

In  about  ten  days  from  the  opening  of  the  session,  it  was 
imderstood  that  the  committee  had  reached  its  final  conclu- 
sions ;  that  they  would  recommend  the  formation  of  a 
"distinct  ecclesiastical  organization,"  and  no  doubt  was 
entertained  as  to  the  concurrence  of  the  body.  The  point 
was  now  settled  ;  the  crisis  had  come  ;  the  Church  was  to  be 
"rent  in  twain."  This  was  the  event  in  anticipation  of 
which  I  was  waiting.  The  time  for  me  to  act  had  now 
arrived. 

It  had  been  my  fixed  purpose  never  to  come,  even  nomi- 
nally, under  a  new  organization,  should  one  be  formed. 
Accordingly,  foreseeing  the  final  action,  I  applied  to  Bishop 
Morris,  then  in  the  city,  for  a  transfer  to  my  former  Con- 
ference, which  he  consented  to  give.  Previous  to  this, 
however,  some  other  formalities  were  to  be  adjusted  by 


INTERVIEW   WITH   BISHOP   SOULE.  231 

which  I  should  close  up  my  personal  connection  with  the 
Southern  work.  This  became  the  object  of  immediate 
attention. 

On  my  arrival  at  Louisville,  about  a  month  previous  to 
the  Convention,  rather  a  sharp  passage  d'armes  had  taken 
place,  by  written  correspondence,  between  a  leading  minister 
of  the  South,  with  whom  I  was  then  officially  connected, 
and  myself,  in  which  feelings  were  indicated  that  led  me  to 
anticipate  a  difficult  adjustment  of  matters  in  the  event  of 
separation.  This  anticipation  was  strengthened  by  cold 
and  distant  treatment  received  in  the  first  few  days  from 
delegates  with  whom  I  had  been  most  associated,  which  led 
me  to  suspect  concerted  action.  In  a  few  days  after  the 
opening,  the  minister  referred  to  arrived.  He  approached 
me  with  great  cordiality,  and  was  soon  followed  by  others. 
From  that  time  their  deportment  changed,  and  up  to  my 
departure  I  was  treated  with  marked  kindness  and  even 
affection. 

At  this  stage  of  affairs  I  was  invited  to  an  interview 
with  Bishop  Soule.  The  hour  passed  agreeably.  I  was 
inquired  of  as  to  the  condition  of  the  mission  work  upon 
the  Southern  frontier  and  the  arrangements  recently  made 
for  its  enlargement ;  was  consulted  as  to  appointments 
prospectively  to  be  made,  and  one  or  two  were  then  fixed ; 
all  the  information  and  advice  in  my  power,  to  enable  them 
to  carry  on  the  work  with  success,  were  fully  and  candidly 
given. 

This  done,  an  appeal  was  made  to  myself,  and  I  was 
urged  to  remain  in  connection  with  the  Southern  department 
of  the  work  ;  the  Bishop  assuring  me  that,  notwithstanding 
the  steps  which  I  had  already  taken  toward  a  change,  still 
my  "position  should  be  satisfactory"  if  I  would  consent  to 
remain.  I  replied,  in  substance,  that  "the  time  had  come 
for  every  man  of  full  years  to  take  his  position ;  that  after 
the  act  of  separation  changes  would  become  difficult,  em- 
barrassed, and  perhaps  even  viewed  with  suspicion.'*  "  0 
no,"  said  the  Bishop,  assuming  one  of  his  well-known 


232  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

postures  of  confidence  and  authority,  "  It  must  not  be  so — 
it  shall  not  be  so."  In  this  he  was  candid  ;  still  cherishing 
his  fond  dream  of  personal  control  over  both  departments 
of  the  Church,  even  after  final  separation  should  have  taken 
place  ;  but  from  this  dream  facts  soon  aroused  him.  With 
this  our  interview  closed  kindly. 

The  next  step  was  a  settlement  of  my  pecuniary  transac- 
tions. For  this,  as  before  seen,  I  had  come  prepared, 
duplicates  of  the  books  and  papers  necessary  to  a  settlement 
being  in  my  possession.  Rev.  J.  C.  Berryman,  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Indian  Mission  Conference,  was  in  the  city, 
and  was  authorized  to  represent  the  society  in  the  adjust- 
ment of  my  affairs.  We  came  together  in  presence  of 
several  other  brethren.  My  papers  were  examined  and 
approved.  The  funds  in  my  hands  were  paid  over  and 
vouchers  taken  ;  which  with  all  similar  documents  are  now 
before  me — 1860.  This  done,  I  received,  at  the  hand  of 
Bishop  Morris,  a  regular  transfer.  So  officially  ended  my 
connection  with  the  Southern  work. 

I  can  not  fail  to  notice  the  kind  and  even  affectionate 
exhibition  of  unchanged  confidence  and  warm  fraternal 
feeling  exhibited  at  our  parting  by  those  of  my  Southern 
brethren  with  whom  I  had  been  most  intimately  associated. 
At  the  close  of  our  settlement  referred  to,  the  hand  was 
taken  and  tears  were  shed.  Incidental  facts  subsequently 
coming  to  my  ears  convinced  me  that  this  was  no  feigned 
feeling  on  the  part  of  my  former  associates. 

Another  parting  scene  is  pleasingly  remembered.  While 
at  the  city  post-office  giving  directions  for  forwarding  my 
letters,  Rev.  William  Gunn,  of  Kentucky  Conference,  that 
manly,  noble,  sweet-spirited  servant  of  God,  one  who  en- 
tered so  reluctantly  into  the  measures  of  separation,  came 
up,  and  heard  what  was  passing.  Stepping  with  me  to  the 
sidewalk,  he  said,  "I  can  not  do  as  you  are  doing.  I  have 
my  people  here,  to  whom  I  am  attached,  and  whom  I  still 
desire  to  serve."  As  he  was  proceeding  with  his  remarks, 
he  was  interrupted  by  Rev. ,  a  fiery  delegate  from 


CHANGES   AT   FORT  COFFEE.  233 

Conference,  who  approached,  and  commenced  relating 

some  tale  of  Northern  aggression  and  outrage.  I  turned 
away,  and  was  about  to  leave,  but  the  warm  tide  of  frater- 
nal feeling  was  not  thus  to  be  checked.  Shaking  off  the 
intrusion  as  soon  as  possible,  he  followed  me,  and  repeated, 
"I  can  not  do  as  you  are  doing;  but  to  you  I  can  say, 
'  The  Lord  be  between  me  and  thee,  and  between  my  seed 
and  thy  seed  forever.'  "  It  was  our  last  earthly  interview. 
He  has  entered  into  rest.  The  other  delegate  referred  to  has 
also  passed  away  to  the  bar  of  God.  I  alone  am  left.  O, 
God  !  when  actions  and  motives  are  scrutinized  at  thy  bar, 
may  I  not  be  found  wanting ! 

It  is  due  further  to  say,  that,  almost  without  exception, 
the  entire  intercourse  with  my  old  associates  of  the  South 
was,  at  the  time  of  parting,  and  has  continued  up  to  this 
day,  mutually  kind,  respectful,  and  confidential.  The 
period  embraced  since  the  sitting  of  the  last  General 
Conference  had  been  one  of  great  mental  conflict.  I  have 
never,  however,  on  looking  back,  seen  any  cause  to  regret 
the  course  pursued. 

Not  long  after,  Rev.  H.  C.  Benson  and  lady  arrived,  also, 
having  surrendered  the  entire  concern  into  the  hands  of  the 
South.  A  new  dynasty  was  installed,  connected,  of  course, 
with  many  changes  in  the  subordinate  departments.  In  a 
few  months,  as  I  afterward  learned,  every  employe"  of  mine, 
even  down  to  the  cook  and  laundress,  had  left  the  institu- 
tion. With  the  details  of  its  subsequent  history  I  am  not 
acquainted.  Occasional  reports  that  have  met  my  eye  indi- 
cate continued  prosperity. 

A  new  scene  now  opened.  During  the  brief  absence  of 
two  years  very  great  changes  had  taken  place  in  the  scene 
of  my  former  labors.  The  Indiana  Conference  had  been 
divided.  I  was  consulted  as  to  my  preference,  and  chose 
the  North,  having  last  labored  in  that  section  of  the  State. 
My  transfer  was  accordingly  made  out  to  the  North  Indiana 
Conference :  and  connected  with  the  transfer  was  an  ap- 
pointment to  Peru  district,  to  supply  the  place  left  vacant 

20 


234  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

by  the  recent  death  of  my  old  friend,  Rev.  Burroughs 
Westlake.  Thus,  as  a  clerical  friend  remarked,  "the  iron 
gate  opened  of  its  own  accord;"  the  providence  of  God 
having  prepared  work  upon  which  I  should  immediately 
enter. 

No  time  was  lost.  On  the  21st  I  arrived  at  Indianapolis  ; 
adjusted  matters  for  a  temporary  residence  of  my  family 
there ;  purchased  a  horse  and  outfit,  and  repaired  to  my 
field  of  labor.  On  the  7th  of  June  I  attended  the  first 
quarterly  meeting  on  the  district  in  Kosciusko  county,  near 
Leesburg. 

From  that  time  till  the  Annual  Conference,  in  September, 
I  remained  upon  this  district.  It  was  a  memorable  season 
of  distress  and  suffering  to  the  people  of  the  Upper  Wabash 
country.  Two  successive  failures  of  the  crop  had  occurred  ; 
and  that  year  the  country  was  for  months  prostrate  with 
epidemic  disease.  My  predecessor  had  been  cut  off.  I  my- 
self had  a  violent  attack  of  illness  which  laid  me  aside  for 
about  three  months,  and  materially  affected  my  constitution, 
till  then  one  of  the  most  firm  and  enduring.  At  the  ensu- 
ing Conference  I  was  changed  to  another  district,  and  a 
successor  appointed,  in  the  person  of  the  young,  ardent,  and 
vigorous  Philip  May ;  but,  ere  another  year  had  closed,  he, 
too,  had  fallen  under  the  pressure  of  his  labors  and  expo- 
sures, and  was  taken  home  to  his  reward. 

During  this  season  I  was  consulted  by  the  authorities  of 
the  Church  on  the  subject  of  taking  an  appointment  to 
Oregon — previous  to  the  appointment  of  Rev.  Geo.  Gary — 
with  the  understanding  that  labors  in  California  should 
also  be  embraced.  This  was  before  the  gold  discoveries 
and  the  commencement  of  emigration  from  the  United 
States.  The  impaired  condition  of  my  own  health,  to- 
gether with  the  fatigues  so  recently  undergone  by  my  family 
in  their  long  removals,  led  me  to  think  that  duty  did  not 
require  my  acceptance ;  the  only  appointment  in  the  regular 
work  of  a  Methodist  preacher,  near  or  distant,  that  I  have 
ever  declined. 


LABORS  IN  NORTH  INDIANA.         235 

A  period  followed  of  about  nine  years*  labor  within  the 
bounds  of  North  Indiana  Conference,  which,  as  it  has  no 
connection  with  the  work  of  frontier  missions,  and  conse- 
quently lies  without  the  scope  of  ray  present  plan,  I  pass 
by  entirely ;  and  here,  for  that  period,  I  take  leave  of  the 
reader. 


PART    II. 


EARLY    SCENES 


IN 


KANSAS  AND  NEBRASKA 


EARLY  SCENES  IN  KANSAS  AND  NEBRASKA. 


CHAPTER   I. 

EXPLORATION —  APPOINTMENT— TRIP    TO 
FRONTIER. 

THE  passage  of  the  Kansas-Nebraska  act  by  the  Congress 
of  the  United  States,  at  the  session  of  1853-4,  is  an  event 
memorable  in  the  annals  of  American  history.  Two  new 
territories  were  opened  for  settlement,  a  new  impetus  was 
given  to  the  spirit  of  emigration,  that  ruling  bent  of  the 
American  people,  and  a  vast  range  presented  for  its  gratifi- 
cation. Questions  that  had  been  deemed  settled  long  since 
Avere  again  opened  up,  the  field  of  strife  was  entered  afresh, 
and  tragedies  have  been  enacted  which  one-half  a  score  of 
years  since  would  have  been  thought  impossible  by  the 
hands  of  American  citizens. 

Local  violence  in  that  quarter  has  in  a  great  degree  sub- 
sided, but  the  question  has  become  national,  and  at  no 
former  time  has  sectional  strife  raged  in  our  country  with 
the  virulence  of  the  present  day.  Parties  in  former  days 
have  been  earnest,  excited  ;  now  they  have  become  violent, 
bitter,  bloody.  But  for  the  overruling  Hand  that  controls 
the  destinies  of  nations  and  of  men,  and  causes  the  "  wrath 
of  man  to  praise  him,"  the  patriot  and  philanthropist 
would  have  little  to  hope  upon  this  boasted  theater  of 
American  liberty,  with  gloomy  presages  as  to  the  result 
of  this  test  of  man's  capacity  for  self-government. 

All  this  was  not  foreseen  at  the  period  referred  to. 
Calamitous  effects  were  apprehended  by  thoughtful  and 

239 


240  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

patriotic  minds,  but  the  full  measure  of  the  results  was  not 
known,  nor  are  they  now  developed. 

There  were  others,  however,  whose  minds  were  directed 
to  a  different  aspect  of  the  case.  Though  not  insensible  to 
the  great  questions  at  issue  before  the  public,  there  were 
interests  of  yet  higher  and  deeper  import,  and  more  imme- 
diately within  their  own  sphere,  that  engaged  their  atten- 
tion. A  mighty  tide  of  emigration  was  to  roll  into  this 
new  empire.  Thousands  of  immortal  souls  would  soon  be 
there,  all  purchased  with  the  blood  of  Christ.  Among 
them  would  be  our  own  Church  members,  needing  the  word 
and  ordinances  of  religion,  and  very  many  more  in  their 
sins  who  must  be  followed  with  the  calls  and  invitations  of 
the  Gospel.  The  influence  of  a  pure  Christianity  would  be 
needed  to  restrain  vice,  support  tempted  piety,  and  prevent 
fearful  apostasies  from  God.  The  community  was  to  be 
leavened,  and  the  institutions  of  these  new  and  rising  Terri- 
tories to  be  modeled  and  shaped  by  Gospel  influences  and 
efforts.  Such  was  the  view  taken  by  the  authorities  of  our 
Church  of  the  providential  opening  and  call,  and  the  action 
was  in  accordance  with  the  sentiment. 

Soon  after  the  passage  of  the  organizing  act,  three  of  our 
Bishops — two  of  whom  are  still  living,  and  one  departed — 
met  in  the  city  of  Baltimore.  Attention  was  turned  to  the 
new  field  providentially  presented.  The  unanimous  senti- 
ment was  that  an  early  occupancy  was  important.  Little 
being  known,  however,  as  to  the  actual  state  and  wants  of 
the  country,  it  was  thought  best,  in  the  first  place,  to  send 
one  who  should  make  a  tour  of  exploration,  ascertain  its 
condition,  make  temporary  arrangements,  if  necessary,  for 
immediate  supply  to  the  settlers  already  there,  return  and 
report  in  time  to  send  out  a  sufficient  body  of  regularly- 
appointed  preachers  from  the  ensuing  session  of  the  several 
Annual  Conferences.  At  the  same  interview  a  selection  was 
made  of  the  man  who  should  conduct  the  exploration. 

Under  date  of  the  15th  of  May,  1854,  I  was  notified  by 
letter  from  one  of  the  Bishops,  then  at  Brooklyn,  New  York, 


APPOINTMENT — LAST  TEN  YEARS.       241 

of  their  action  and  of  my  contemplated  appointment,  with 
directions  to  adjust  my  affairs  accordingly.  The  formal 
appointment  bears  date  June  3d,  and  is  as  follows  : 

"  REV.  W.  H.  GOODE  : 

"  DEAR  BROTHER, — It  is  understood  that  emigration  is 
tending  largely  to  Nebraska  [a  name  then  embracing  both 
Territories.]  It  seems  probable  that  the  Church  ought  soon 
to  send  some  devoted  missionaries  to  that  country.  But 
there  is  not  such  a  knowledge  of  details  respecting  the 
topography  and  population  of  these  regions  as  to  enable  the 
Church  authorities  to  act  understandingly  in  the  premises. 
You  are  therefore  appointed  to  visit  and  explore  the  coun- 
try as  thoroughly  as  practicable,  for  the  purpose  of  collect- 
ing information  on  these  points.  In  performing  this  work 
you  will  be  governed  by  your  own  judgment,  and  make  full 
reports  in  writing  of  your  labor  and  its  results,  so  that  it 
may  be  known  how  many  ministers — if  any — should  be 
sent,  and  at  what  particular  points  they  should  be  located. 
"  Yours,  truly,  E.  R.  AMES, 

Bishop  Methodist  Episcopal  Church." 

A  letter  of  instructions  also  was  received,  written  after 
consultation  with  three  others  of  the  Episcopal  Board,  in 
which  the  duties  required  were  stated  at  greater  length. 

The  announcement  of  my  appointment  to  this  new  field 
found  me  in  the  position  of  pastor  to  the  good  people  of 
our  Church  in  the  quiet  city  of  Richmond,  Indiana.  The 
time  intervening  since  I  had  taken  leave  of  the  reader, 
almost  half  a  score  of  years  since,  had  been  occupied  mainly 
in  the  work  of  two  successive  districts,  Greencastle  and 
Indianapolis,  four  years  having  been  spent  upon  each.  The 
severe  illness,  following  my  return  from  the  South,  had  left 
my  general  health  so  impaired  that,  though  performing  full 
labor,  it  was  accomplished  under  the  pressure  of  disease 
and  bodily  debility.  It  was  at  length  determined  by  kind 
friends  and  brethren  that  my  health  was  inadequate  to  the 

21 


242  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

district  work,  and  that  circumstances  demanded  a  change  to 
some  position  requiring  less  bodily  exertion  and  exposure. 
Accordingly,  at  the  session  of  our  Conference  at  Richmond 
in  September,  1853,  I  received  an  appointment  to  the  sta- 
tion in  that  place,  removed  my  family  and  entered  upon  the 
immediate  pastoral  work ;  a  work  always  grateful  to  me, 
and  peculiarly  so  after  a  long  period  of  labor  upon  more 
extended  fields. 

My  immediate  predecessor  in  this  charge  had  been  my 
esteemed  and  long-tried  friend,  Rev.  John  H.  Hull.  The 
affairs  of  the  station  were  in  good  condition.  A  new 
church  edifice  was  just  erected  and  occupied,  now  known  as 
Pearl- Street  Church.  Our  presiding  elder  was  that  energetic 
worker,  Rev.  Samuel  C.  Cooper,  another  old  friend  and 
fellow-laborer,  who  has  gone  to  his  reward.  We  soon 
found  ourselves  among  an  affectionate  and  interesting 
people,  and  even  in  a  brief  residence,  attachments  were 
formed  never  to  be  forgotten.  Enough  of  labor  was  found 
in  the  station  to  tax  the  energies  employed  to  the  utmost. 
The  character  of  the  labor  was  changed,  but  its  amount  had 
not  been  lessened  by  the  change  of  position.  Among  the 
circumstances  that  contributed  to  add  to  the  amount  of 
work,  not  the  least  gratifying  was  a  gracious  revival  of 
religion  during  the  Winter,  in  which  over  a  hundred  souls 
were  gathered  in,  followed  by  that  increase  of  mutual  con- 
fidence and  kind  Christian  intercourse,  always  the  result  of 
a  genuine  religious  revival.  Of  course,  it  cost  a  struggle  to 
break  off  these  ties  ;  but  the  lesson  had  been  learned,  and 
experience  had  already  made  it  familiar.  No  time  was 
given  for  delay.  The  place  in  the  station  was  filled  by  the 
appointment  of  another  man ;  the  tie  was  sundered ;  and  a 
new  and  distant  field  opened  up  before  me. 

Previous  experience  in  frontier  life  had  now  rendered  me 
somewhat  familiar  with  it.  The  mode  of  preparing  was 
better  understood,  and  the  work  was  entered  upon  with 
greater  confidence  than  at  the  first.  •  A  spring  wagon  was 
obtained  with  water-proof  cover,  closing  tightly  all  round 


OFF  FOR  THE  FRONTIER.  243 

when  necessary,  and  affording  ample  accommodation  for 
baggage  by  day  and  lodging  by  night.  It  being  supposed, 
from  the  great  numbers  said  to  be  crowding  to  the  Territo- 
ries, that  I  should  have  to  provide  for  myself  after  reaching 
the  frontier,  I  determined  to  do  so  from  the  outset.  A 
complete  outfit  was  procured,  embracing  light  camp  equi- 
page and  provisions  necessary  for  two  persons  ;  my  son,  a 
young  man  just  grown  up,  purposing  to  accompany  me 
out.  A  pair  of  competent  horses  were  hitched  on  with 
needful  rig ;  all  new,  strong,  adapted  to  the  trip,  and  all 
was  made  ready  for  the  start. 

On  the  8th  of  June,  1854, 1  left  Richmond  upon  the  train 
for  Indianapolis,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  G.,  the  team  having 
been  taken  forward  by  another.  One  day  was  spent  at 
Indianapolis  in  completing  our  preparations,  and  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  day  following,  having  taken  leave,  I  took 
the  National  Road  westward,  accompanied  by  my  son.  All 
the  way  to  the  State  line  lay  through  former  fields  of  labor, 
and  thus  far  we  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  friends.  A  Sab- 
bath was  passed,  on  which  I  preached  the  funeral  of  a 
member  of  one  of  my  former  charges.  A  brief  stay  was 
made  in  Terre  Haute,  some  further  additions  made  to  our 
outfit,  and  a  cheerful  night  passed  in  the  parsonage,  then 
occupied  by  my  former  companion  in  labor,  Rev.  A.  Wood 
and  his  esteemed  family.  This  done,  the  Wabash  was 
crossed,  then  the  State  line,  Illinois  was  entered,  friends  left 
behind,  and  we  committed  ourselves  fairly  to  camp  life, 
which  was  maintained  all  the  way  through. 

The  details  of  travel  till  we  reached  the  frontier  I  shall 
mainly  omit.  For  reasons  which  I  thought  would  serve  the 
object  of  my  mission,  I  assumed  a  garb  which  enabled  me 
to  pass  incog.,  except  when  I  saw  proper  to  do  otherwise. 
Our  tout  ensemble  excited  curiosity,  and  led  to  many  inqui- 
ries.. Some  took  us  for  peddlers  ;  others  for  railroad  men  ; 
various  conjectures  were  made.  To  these  we  replied  or  not, 
as  circumstances  indicated ;  always,  however,  appearing  in 
character  where  any  desirable  object  was  to  be  accomplished 


244  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 

by  it.  By  this  course  we  were  enabled  to  make  observa- 
tions and  obtain  facts  from  which  we  should  have  been  cut 
off  by  a  different  deportment.  Now  and  then  I  would  pass 
a  company  bound  for  "New  Brasky,"  and  always  gave 
them  a  word  of  cheer. 

A  Sabbath  in  Illinois  was  agreeably  spent  encamped  at 
Mulberry  Grove,  a  pleasant  village,  where  I  received  kind 
attentions  and  had  the  privilege  of  preaching.  In  the  audi- 
ence was  my  old  friend,  brother  William  Moore,  formerly 
of  Parke  county,  Indiana,  whom  I  had  passed  the  day 
previous,  at  the  crossing  of  Kaskaskia  River  near  Vandalia, 
the  old  capital  of  the  State.  Brother  M.  was  on  his  way 
to  Kansas,  slowly  moving  forward  in  patriarchal  style  at 
the  head  of  a  large  family  of  children  and  grandchildren, 
with  herds  and  flocks  and  all  things  needful  for  his  little 
colony.  Here  I  made  my  first  appointment  for  Kansas, 
constituting  him  the  leader  of  any  class  that  he  might  col- 
lect together  in  the  Territory.  The  gentle  and  retiring 
disposition  of  this  brother,  as  well  as  his  advanced  age, 
seemed  to  forbid  the  supposition  that  he  should  ever  become 
prominent  any  where,  especially  in  a  field  of  conflict ;  but 
circumstances  subsequently  forced  him  into  notoriety.  His 
capture  and  imprisonment ;  his  narrow  escape  from  death, 
even  from  balls  fired  unwittingly  at  the  tent  where  he  lay  a 
prisoner,  by  his  own  son,  then  in  the  ranks  of  John  Brown  ; 
his  deliverance  with  other  captives  by  Brown,  after  a  signal 
victory ;  his  subsequent  services  as  conductor  to  bodies  of 
emigrants,  and  his  labors  for  the  maintenance  of  order  and 
propriety,  even  while  acting  with  great  energy  in  the  free 
State  ranks ;  but,  above  all,  his  pious  example  and  un- 
affected efforts  for  the  promotion  of  morals  and  religion, 
have  given  to  the  name  of  "Uncle  Billy  Moore"  a  place  in 
the  early  annals  of  Kansas  not  soon  to  be  forgotten. 

A  little  time  was  spent  in  St.  Louis,  and  all  the  informa- 
tion practicable  was  obtained  to  enable  us  to  shape  our 
course  and  direct  our  explorations  profitably.  It  had  been 
my  purpose  to  take  the  route  from  St.  Louis  via  Spring- 


TWO  SABBATHS  IN   MISSOURI.  245 

field,  Missouri,  to  strike  the  frontier  near  the  south-western 
corner  of  the  State,  and  thence  to  advance  northward.  But 
the  intense  heat  of  the  season,  and  the  great  length  of  the 
land-travel  by  that  route,  led  to  a  change  of  plans  ;  espe- 
cially as  I  had,  in  former  years,  passed  over  a  great  portion 
of  the  country  embraced  in  that  plan,  and  was  already 
somewhat  familiar  with  it.  It  was  then  resolved  that  we 
should  take  our  course  up  the  Missouri  River,  across  the 
State,  striking  immediately  for  Independence,  to  the  vicinity 
of  which  place  it  was  said  the  greater  part  of  the  emigration 
was  tending. 

The  Missouri  River  was  crossed  at  St.  Charles,  making  a 
considerable  portion  of  our  journey  upon  the  north  side, 
and  recrossed  at  Rocheport,  passing  up  through  Booneville, 
and  Lexington,  and  so  on  to  Independence.  Our  travel  led 
us  through  the  finest  portion  of  this  vast  and  fertile  State. 
But  little  intercourse  was  had  except  in  the  way  of  procur- 
ing needful  supplies.  Not  a  single  minister  or  member  of 
our  Church  was  met  with  on  the  way. 

Upon  the  approach  of  our  first  Sabbath  in  Missouri, 
hearing  of  a  quarterly  meeting  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  South,  in  progress  at  a  certain  point  upon  our  road, 
we  made  it  convenient  to  spend  the  Lord's  day  there,  en- 
camped under  a  lone  tree  in  a  prairie.  I  attended  the 

morning  service  in  my  traveling  costume.  Rev.  Mr. 

was  the  presiding  elder.  Unwilling  to  be  silent  in  a  love- 
feast,  I  arose,  incog.,  and  spoke.  The  presiding  elder 
responded  with,  "Lord  bless  the  brother,"  and  I  sat  down. 
The  afternoon  was  spent  in  framing  a  discourse  from  Zech- 
ariah  xiv,  8.  My  attention  was  forcibly  called  to  the 
passage  by  the  fact  that  the  settlers  on  the  road  over  that 
beautiful  but  "thirsty  land/*  in  giving  us  directions,  used 
the  identical  language  of  the  prophet,  "living  water,"  to 
distinguish  an  occasional  stream  or  spring  to  which  they 
would  point  us  from  the  cisterns  and  pools  of  dead  water, 
so  commonly  relied  upon  by  them,  and  so  loathsome  to  us 
and  our  horses,  Our  second  Sabbath  in  this  State  was 


246  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

passed  quietly  in  camp,  within  the  inclosure  of , 

Esq.,  who  has  since  figured  conspicuously  in  the  border 
struggle. 

As  we  advanced  we  learned  that  that  fearful  disease,  Asiatic 
cholera,  was  prevailing  at  Independence,  Kansas  City,  and 
other  places  on  or  near  the  frontier,  and  we  were  cautioned 
to  keep  at  a  distance.  Persons  also  met  us  with  tales  of 
"  squatter  difficulties  "  in  the  Territory.  A  late  St.  Louis 
paper,  accidentally  picked  up  in  the  road,  gave  us  informa- 
tion of  the  border  strife  already  commenced.  A  meeting 
had  been  held  near  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  it  had  been 
resolved  that  "Kansas  is  and  shall  be  slave  territory." 
Violence  already  was  threatened,  and  the  initiative  was 
taken  to  the  sanguinary  conflict  that  has  ensued. 

From  an  elevated  point  among  the  hills  of  "the  Blue," 
we  had  a  sight  of  two  fine  rival  towns,  each  a  few  miles 
back  from  Missouri  River,  upon  opposite  sides,  and  bearing 
the  significant  names  of  "Liberty"  and  "Independence," 
in  the  rich  counties  of  "Clay"  and  "Jackson."  Both 
participated  largely  in  the  coming  border  conflict ;  but  of 
the  two,  "Clay  and  Liberty"  rather  had  the  pre-eminence. 

Independence  is  a  beautiful  place,  in  the  heart  of  a  de- 
lightful country,  about  twelve  miles  from  the  Kansas  line. 
For  many  years  it  was  the  only  starting-point  in  this  region 
for  the  Plains,  including  the  Santa  Fe,  Oregon,  and  Cali- 
fornia travel,  and  reaped  large  advantages  from  the  trade, 
till  it  passed  out  of  their  hands  to  points  further  up.  There 
is  much  wealth  and  aristocracy  in  these  border  counties, 
and  a  large  number  of  slaves  is  held.  I  happened  to  meet 
with  the  man  to  whom  Colonel  Benton  is  said  to  have 
alluded,  in  a  speech  in  the  United  States  Senate,  when  he 
affirmed  that,  within  an  hour's  ride  of  the  territorial  line, 
was  a  single  man  the  owner  of  five  hundred  slaves.  He  is 
said  to  be  kind  and  humane,  and,  I  think,  refrained  entirely 
from  the  exciting  contest.  Arrived  here,  we  doffed  our 
traveling  garb,  and  put  up  at  the  principal  hotel.  I  made 
known,  publicly,  my  character  and  mission,  and  made  the 


THE   BORDER   REACHED.  247 

needful  inquiries.  Little  satisfaction  was  obtained,  but  no 
personal  disrespect  was  shown.  We  found  a  small  society 
of  our  Church  here,  but  the  members  were  feeble  and  dis- 
couraged. The  violence  of  cholera  had  abated. 

Here  I  was  left  to  pursue  my  way  alone ;  my  son  determ- 
ining to  remain,  for  a  time,  in  Independence.  Another 
drive  brought  me  to  Westport,  a  place  of  historic  notoriety 
in  border  warfare,  one  mile  from  the  territorial  line.  Hith- 
erto all  efforts  to  obtain  any  clew  to  the  whereabouts  of  our 
missionaries,  that  I  knew  to  be  laboring  among  the  Indians 
just  over  the  line,  had  proved  unavailing.  Profound  igno- 
rance was  either  real  or  affected.  I  resolved  to  make  a 
stand  till  I  could  learn  more ;  and,  with  that  intent,  put  up 
at  a  hotel  near  by,  from  which  I  should  go  out  and  in  till 
the  way  might  open  for  entering  the  territory  and  prose- 
cuting my  work. 


248  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER    II. 

FIRST    SCENES    IN    KANSAS. 

ON  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  July,  1854.  leaving  car- 
riage and  equipage,  I  started  on  horseback  to  Kansas  City. 
This  is  the  point  upon  the  Missouri  River,  mentioned  in  the 
former  part  of  this  volume,  which  I  had  reached  that  day 
just  eleven  years  previous,  then  known  as  Kansas  Landing, 
with  a  single  log  dwelling  and  warehouse,  now  a  thriving 
town  driving  a  heavy  trade  with  the  Plains.  The  seemingly- 
ominous  coincidence  of  my  arriving  twice  successively  at 
this  point  on  the  day  consecrated  to  freedom,  in  connection 
with  the  struggle  for  freedom  then  commencing  in  that 
region,  might  have  impressed  a  mind  more  observant  of 
signs  ;  but  I  had  no  leisure  to  indulge  in  speculations. 

On  the  way  down  I  passed  a  large  encampment  of  Mor- 
mon emigrants,  mostly  Europeans,  just  arrived  and  on  their 
way  to  Salt  Lake.  Cholera  had  been  raging  fearfully 
among  them,  and  had  not  yet  entirely  disappeared  from  the 
country. 

Arrived  at  Kansas  City,  I  was  comforted  by  finding  let- 
ters from  home,  the  first  since  leaving.  Here,  too,  by 
inquiring  at  the  post-office,  I  obtained  the  first  information 
as  to  the  residence  of  our  missionaries  among  the  Indians. 
Determining  to  pass  over  into  the  Wyandott  lands,  I  started 
for  the  ferry  over  Kansas  River,  about  one  mile  distant. 
On  the  way  met  an  Indian  on  foot,  and  made  inquiry ; 
found  him  to  be  Shadow,  one  of  our  most  exemplary  Wy- 
andott brethren.  He  informed  me  that  the  ferry-boat  was 
gone,  and  kindly  offered  me  the  use  of  his  horse,  which  he 
had  hitched  on  the  opposite  side,  while  he  should  take  mine 
back,  leave  him  at  Kansas  City,  and  himself  walk  home. 


PRO-SLAVERY   MISSION.  249 

Crossing  the  river  in  a  skiff,  I  found  the  horse,  and  made 
an  excursion  into  the  Wyandott  settlement.  Here  I  found 
Rev.  John  M.  Chivington,  the  regularly- appointed  mission- 
ary to  the  Wyandotts  for  that  year.  He  was  in  possession 
of  the  mission  farm,  then  the  property  of  our  Church.  Ob- 
taining the  requisite  information,  I  passed  back  to  Kansas 
City,  got  my  horse,  and  returned  to  my  temporary  head- 
quarters at  Westport.  That  night  I  passed  in  a  house, 
having  slept  out  for  the  twenty-one  preceding. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  I  crossed  the  line  and  entered 
the  Territory  upon  the  great  Western  thoroughfare,  passing 
the  Shawnee  Manual-Labor  School,  of  which  I  have  already 
given  an  account  in  the  previous  part  of  this  volume,  and 
where,  eleven  years  before,  I  had  felt  myself  at  home  for 
some  days  at  a  cherished  institution  of  our  Church,  sur- 
rounded by  brethren  whose  loyalty  to  genuine  Wesleyan 
Methodism  had,  up  to  that  time,  never  been  questioned. 
Great  changes  had  passed  upon  it  since.  It  was  still  a 
flourishing  place,  bearing  the  appearance  of  wealth  and  pe- 
cuniary success.  But  its  destination  was  no  longer  the 
same.  I  passed  it  now  as  a  stranger. 

This  establishment  has  of  late  years  gained  notoriety 
under  the  name  of  the  "Methodist  Mission,"  or  perhaps 
more  frequently  "Johnson's  Mission."  Being  an  append- 
age of  Missouri  Conference  at  the  time  of  separation  in 
1845,  it  was  carried  into  the  Southern  organization,  not- 
withstanding its  position  in  free  territory,  north  of  the  then 
acknowledged  limit  of  slavery,  and  in  the  midst  of  Indian 
tribes  among  whom  slavery  was  almost  entirely  unknown, 
except  as  it  had  been  introduced  and  countenanced  by  the 
missionaries  themselves  who  were  about  the  institution. 
From  the  hour  of  separation  forward  it  became  a  strong- 
hold of  pro-slavery  influence.  Its  situation,  just  at  the 
entrance  of  Kansas  Territory,  on  the  most  public  route, 
gave  it  prominence,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  few  allied  places 
just  over  the  line,  it  was  able,  in  a  great  measure,  to  com- 
mand "the  gates"  of  the  Territory  in  this  direction.  It 


250  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

was  the  place  to  which  the  first  Territorial  Legislature 
adjourned  from  Pawnee,  where  Governor  Eeeder  had  con- 
vened them.  Here  they  held  their  session,  and  here  were 
concocted  and  passed  the  bloody  enactments  that  spread 
excitement  in  all  the  States  of  the  Union.  And  these  enact- 
ments were  signed  by  the  missionary,  Eev.  Thomas  Johnson, 
as  President  of  the  Council,  or  upper  branch  of  the  Terri- 
torial Legislature.  In  various  ways  it  had  much  to  do  in 
keeping  up  the  desperate  struggle  that  ensued  in  that 
long-distracted  country.  Circumstances  of  duty  called  me 
frequently  to  the  place  during  the  session  of  the  Legislature, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Governor  and  public  officers  there 
for  the  year  following ;  but  I  never  met  an  act  of  recog- 
nition from  its  clerical  conductor.  And  my  experience  was, 
so  far  as  I  learned,  identical  in  this  particular  with  that  of 
all  others  who  remained  firm  in  their  adherence  to  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 

Adjoining  to  the  lands  of  this  institution  on  the  west 
were  those  of  the  "Friends'  Establishment,"  as  called  by 
themselves,  but  better  known  as  the  "  Quaker  Mission." 
This  was  another  institution  of  much  the  same  character, 
upon  a  smaller  scale.  It  has  been  supplied  by  good  men 
and  women  of  the  Quaker  persuasion,  who  have  labored 
faithfully  in  the  cause  of  Indian  education,  and  exerted  a 
wholesome  moral  and  religious  influence  upon  the  contig- 
uous tribes.  Throughout  the  ensuing  struggle  they  main- 
tained a  quiet  but  firm  stand  against  the  introduction  of 
slavery,  and  the  Establishment  became  a  welcome  stopping- 
place  to  the  friends  of  freedom,  as  they  passed  and  repassed. 
Here  I  called,  was  kindly  welcomed,  and  formed  an  agree- 
able Christian  acquaintance,  which  continued  during  my 
stay  in  that  country.  This  school  is  still  kept  up. 

Adjoining  to  this  again  was  the  Baptist  Mission,  for 
many  years  under  the  care  of  Rev.  Dr.  Barker,  a  faithful 
and  devoted  missionary.  His  labors  among  the  Shawnees 
had  been  greatly  blessed ;  an  interesting  Church  had  been 
organized,  a  good  house  of  worship  erected,  and  a  flourish- 


GRADUATED  SCALE  OF  GOVERNMENT  FAVOR.      251 

ing  school  was  in  progress.  But  the  Doctor  was  an  uncom- 
promising foe  to  slavery,  and  that  sealed  his  fate.  In  the 
Shawnee  Treaty  of  the  Winter  preceding,  his  mission  was 
almost  entirely  cut  off  from  Government  favor,  and  even 
greatly  restricted  in  the  amount  and  tenure  of  the  lands 
occupied.  From  the  same  cause,  or  some  other,  the  mis- 
sion was  poorly  sustained  by  the  Church,  and,  after  the 
organization  of  the  Territory,  it  was  wholly  abandoned. 

After  the  reorganization  of  the  Missouri  Conference  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  in  1848,  an  effort  was 
made  to  re-establish  our  mission-work  among  the  Shaw- 
nees.  The  veteran  pioneer,  Dr.  Abraham  Still,  was  ap- 
pointed to  the  charge.  A  site  was  selected  upon  the  Wak- 
arusa,  some  progress  made  in  preparing  a  farm  and  build- 
ings, and  a  small  school  was  opened.  But  the  same  causes 
which  weakened  the  Quaker  institution  and  annihilated  the 
Baptist  were  brought  still  more  strongly  to  bear  upon  our 
infant  mission  establishment. 

Pro-slavery  influences  controlled  the  making  of  the  treat- 
ies with  the  Indian  tribes  in  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  imme- 
diately preceding  the  organization  of  these  Territories.  In 
the  treaties  themselves  this  fact  stands  out  so  plainly  as  to 
be  recognized  by  every  candid  man.  Other  religious  de- 
nominations, besides  these  already  referred  to,  had  their 
missionary  establishments  within  the  Territories.  The  treat- 
ies seemed  to  have  been  framed  upon  a  scale  of  favor 
graduated  in  accordance  with  the  positions  occupied  by  the 
several  missions,  or  the  Churches  they  represented,  upon 
the  question  of  slavery.  Its  zealous  friends  and  promoters 
were  rewarded  by  a  munificent  provision.  Lukewarm  ad- 
vocates and  gentle  opposers  had  a  smaller  or  a  mere  nom- 
inal recognition.  All  received  a  passing  notice,  except  the 
mission  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  whose  very 
existence  is  ignored  in  the  treaties,  for  no  other  reason, 
doubtless,  than  the  decided  and  effective  antagonism  of  our 
Church  to  the  peculiar  institution  sought  to  be  cherished 
and  built  up.  Our  missionary  efforts,  however,  are  still 


252  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

kept  up  among  this  people,  without  Government  favor  or 
freehold  immunities. 

Having  introduced  the  reader  to  these  several  establish- 
ments, and  anticipated  somewhat  their  history,  I  return  to 
my  route  of  travel.  Crossing  the  Kansas  River  at  Dela- 
ware Ferry,  I  entered  the  Delaware  lands,  and  called  on 
Charles  Ketcham,  a  Delaware  preacher  of  seventeen  years' 
standing,  of  whom  I  shall  say  more  hereafter.  On  enter- 
ing the  Wyandott  lands,  I  lost  my  way ;  had  long  and  seri- 
ous difficulty  in  forcing  a  passage  with  carriage  and  horses 
through  th«  dense  woodlands ;  got  quite  off  the  course,  and 
know  not  when  or  where  I  should  have  found  myself  but 
for  meeting  a  drunken  Indian,  whom  I  took  into  my  car- 
riage, and,  by  feeding  him,  tied  him  on  to  my  fortunes  till 
I  had  reached  the  Indian  settlements. 

A  day  or  two  spent  among  the  Wyandotts  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  commencing  an  acquaintance  with  this 
tribe,  which  proved  to  be  of  great  interest,  and  of  which 
I  shall  speak  hereafter.  My  stay  among  this  interesting 
people  at  that  time  was  shortened  by  a  desire  to  go  further 
into  the  interior,  and  especially  to  visit  our  mission  station 
on  the  Wakarusa,  the  locality  of  which  I  had  at  last 
ascertained. 

Leaving  my  carriage  and  horses,  I  set  out,  upon  the 
morning  of  the  7th,  upon  an  Indian  pony,  in  company 
with  Rev.  J.  M.  Chivington  and  one  or  two  others.  I  passed 
up,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Kaw  or  Kansas  River,  through 
the  Delaware  lands,  mostly  fine  prairie,  interspersed  with 
strips  of  good  black-oak  timber.  The  day  was  intensely 
warm,  and  we  rode  at  Jehu  speed.  About  three  in  the 
afternoon,  much  fatigued,  we  reached  the  Kaw  River,  op- 
posite the  mouth  of  Wakarusa  ;  but  there  was  no  boat, 
the  only  craft  being  a  pirogue,  and  that  fastened  at  the 
opposite  shore.  We  exerted  ourselves  manfully  to  reach 
the  ears  of  our  friends  at  the  mission,  or  of  some  of  the 
natives  residing  near,  and,  for  a  time,  seemingly  in  vain. 
One  of  our  company,  at  length,  was  preparing  to  swim  the 


Dll.  ABRAHAM    STILL.  253 

river  and  bring  over  the  pirogue,  when  we  saw  a  man  com- 
ing to  our  relief.  The  tottering  craft  was  brought  over,  and 
our  horses  were  swam  by  the  side  to  the  opposite  shore  in 
safety.  Reaching  the  mission,  we  met  a  cordial  reception 
from  Dr.  Still  and  his  kind  family. 

DR.  ABRAHAM  STILL  merits  a  more  extended  notice.  He 
has  the  reputation  of  a  skillful  practitioner  of  medicine,  but 
his  life  has  been  mainly  devoted  to  the  work  of  the  itinerant 
ministry,  first  in  one  of  the  Southern  Conferences,  Holston, 
I  think,  and  subsequently  in  Missouri.  At  the  time  of  the 
withdrawal  of  the  South  in  1845,  Dr.  S.  stood  firm  in  his 
attachment  to  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  refusing  to 
be  identified  with  the  new  organization.  For  several  years 
he  stood  almost  alone,  laboring  zealously  as  opportunity 
allowed.  At  the  reorganization  of  the  Missouri  Conference 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  in  1848,  he  became  an 
active  and  persevering  leader  in  the  movement.  His  patient 
and  mild  spirit,  united  with  his  practical  good  sense  and  un- 
tiring perseverance,  eminently  fitted  him  for  the  times,  and 
his  labors  will  long  be  remembered.  After  several  years  of 
district  work  in  the  State  of  Missouri,  he  was  appointed 
missionary  to  the  Shawnee  Indians,  with  a  limited  appro- 
priation to  be  expended  in  founding  a  mission  school.  A 
farm  had  been  made,  cheap  buildings  erected,  and  a  small 
school  opened  under  the  name  of  Wakarusa  Mission.  Sub- 
sequently we  shall  find  the  old  Doctor  acting  a  full  part  in 
the  early  labors  and  struggles  in  Kansas. 

On  the  day  following  our  arrival  a  "settlers'  meeting" 
was  to  be  held  a  few  miles  distant,  which  we  resolved  to 
attend.  This  was  the  first  of  the  kind  held  in  this  part  of 
the  Territory.  The  place  fixed  upon  was  upon  the  California 
road,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Wakarusa,  near  the  residence 
of  Blue  Jacket,  a  prominent  Shawnee,  and  within  some  six 
miles  of  where  the  town  of  Lawrence  now  stands.  Some 
forty  were  in  attendance,  most  of  whom  were  settlers  pro- 
spectively,  not  actually,  if  at  all.  I  found  some  from  my 
own  State  and  met  a  personal  recognition.  The  meeting 


254  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

was  orderly,  and  sundry  regulations  were  adopted  in  rela- 
tion to  "  claims, "  etc.  The  subject  of  slavery  was  intro- 
duced, but  the  action  was  moderate.  Some  were  present 
who  afterward  became  leaders  in  outrage  and  violence,  but 
as  yet  the  ruffian  spirit  had  not  been  fully  aroused. 

Here  we  witnessed  a  novel  scene  in  the  crossing  of  a  large 
party  of  Mormons  over  the  stream  on  their  way  to  Salt 
Lake.  The  passage  occupied  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
day.  They  were  newly  arrived  from  England,  unused  to 
frontier  life  and  travel,  awkward  teamsters,  with  untrained 
oxen.  Eushing  the  teams  down  into  the  ford  a  motley 
scene  ensued  ;  yelping,  whipping,  plunging,  splashing ;  men 
wading  the  stream  with  women  and  children  borne  upon 
their  backs,  or  in  their  arms,  they  at  length  made  the  pas- 
sage without  serious  accident. 

The  succeeding  day  being  the  Sabbath  it  was  determined 
to  ride  to  a  settlement  that  was  being  formed  in  the  "Big 
Timber,"  and  try  to  collect  a  congregation  for  public  wor- 
ship. Accordingly  we  set  out  at  an  early  hour,  our  company 
being  now  enlarged  by  the  accession  of  Dr.  Still,  Friend 
Mendenhall,  the  teacher  from  the  Quaker  Mission,  and 
several  others,  making  a  party  of  considerable  size.  A 
prairie  ride  of  some  fifteen  miles  through  the  tall  grass,  at 
times  almost  hiding  man  and  beast  from  sight,  brought  us 
to  "Hickory  Point,"  a  place  since  rendered  famous  in  the 
history  of  Kansas  by  the  deeds  of  blood  with  which  it  has 
been  connected.  We  stopped  at  the  cabin  of  a  man  named 
"Kibbee,"  originally  from  Parke  county,  Indiana,  a  large, 
athletic,  fearless  frontier's-man,  of  whom  I  shall  have  occa- 
sion to  speak  hereafter.  The  structure  was  a  rude  one, 
newly  erected,  to  which  we  received  a  cordial,  backwoods 
welcome.  Little  expectation  was  had  of  a  ministerial  visit  ; 
but  our  host  and  one  or  two  others  volunteered  their  services 
to  go  out  and  invite  the  settlers  to  assemble  for  preaching. 
By  about  noon  the  company  was  collected,  and  there  in 
Kibbee's  cabin  I  opened  my  commission  by  preaching  from 
Matthew  xxiv,  14 ;  being,  so  far  as  I  knew,  the  first  sermon 


A   LITTLE   SERMON   TO   THE   QUAKERS.  255 

preached  under  any  regular  appointment  to  the  white  set- 
tlers in  Kansas.  We  had  a  comfortable  season  of  worship, 
met  a  few  friends  from  near  Noblesville,  Indiana,  and 
shared  in  such  hospitalities  as  the  place  afforded.  Part  of 
the  congregation,  after  assembling,  were  called  away  to  pro- 
tect some  young  stock  from  the  wolves.  The  Doctor  visited 
and  prescribed  for  an  afflicted  lady  near,  and  we  returned  to 
the  mission. 

During  my  stay  I  had  leisure  to  converse  with  Dr.  S.  in 
relation  to  the  condition  of  the  country,  and  to  obtain  his 
advice  and  suggestions  for  the  prosecution  of  the  work. 
In  pursuance  of  the  authority  conferred  in  my  instructions,  I 
obtained  the  consent  of  the  Doctor  to  take  temporary  charge 
of  the  work  among  the  settlers  in  his  region  till  Conference, 
his  labors  among  the  Shawnees  not  then  demanding  his 
entire  time. 

Several  days  having  been  spent  here,  I  left  in  company 
with  Friend  Mendenhall,  rode  to  the  Quaker  Mission  and 
was  kindly  entertained,  participating  by  request  in  their 
evening  devotions.  The  manner  of  giving  the  invitation 
interested  me,  evincing  as  it  did,  in  their  own  way,  the 
kind,  fraternal  feeling  common  to  missionary  laborers. 
Their  habit  was  to  assemble  in  the  school-room,  at  a  certain 
hour  in  the  evening,  the  entire  household,  with  pupils  and 
employes  of  the  establishment,  to  read  a  chapter  of  the 
Scriptures  and  spend  a  season  in  silent  devotion.  As  we 
passed  to  the  room  on  this  occasion,  the  Superintendent, 
Friend  Thayer,  said  to  me  privately,  "Thee  may  talk  this 
evening — thee  may  talk  half  an  hour."  Accepting  his 
invitation,  I  read  and  commented  upon  a  Psalm  to  my 
quiet  and  attentive  little  congregation.  Friend  T.  was  in 
poor  health,  soon  after  returned  to  the  States,  and  his  place 
was  supplied.  This  place  was  then  beginning  to  be  known 
as  a  home  for  the  friends  of  freedom.  Small  and  unpre- 
tending as  was  the  Friends'  establishment,  it  has  quietly 
though  effectively  performed  its  part  in  the  great  struggle. 

On  the  next  day  I  called  at  the  Baptist  Mission  and  made 


256  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

the  acquaintance  of  Rev.  Dr.  Barker,  of  whom  I  have 
already  spoken.  I  thought  I  saw  in  him  a  self-denying, 
God-fearing  man,  ardently  attached  to  his  work.  Subse- 
quent intercourse  only  raised  him  higher  in  my  estimation, 
I  know  not  his  lajter  history,  but  in  his  relations  and  work 
he  fell  a  sacrifice  to  his  stern  and  uncompromising  consci- 
entiousness as  an  antislavery  man — perhaps  I  should  add 
as  an  opposer  of  prevailing  sin  in  every  form. 

Some  days  were  spent  in  a  second  visit  to  Independence, 
arranging  matters  for  my  trip  northward,  and  returning  to 
the  Wyandott  settlements,  which  I  reached  by  again  swim- 
ming my  pony  over  Kaw  River  near  its  mouth. 

During  my  stay  among  this  people  I  had  the  privilege  of 
visiting  the  home  of  Mrs.  Armstrong,  widow  of  the  lata 
John  Armstrong,  a  pious  and  educated  Wyandott,  and 
daughter  to  the  late  eloquent  and  devoted  Rev.  Russell 
Bigelow,  of  the  Ohio  Conference,  my  former  pastor,  and 
one  of  the  "guides  of  my  youth."  I  also  enjoyed  my  first 
season  of  worship  with  them  at  their  regular  weekly  prayer 
meeting  held  in  the  afternoon  of  Thursday,  Some  fifteen 
or  twenty  were  present,  among  whom  were  Squire  Gray 
Eyes  and  Little  Chief.  The  meeting  was  led  by  Spy-Buck, 
and  was  distinguished  by  great  fervor  and  apparent  devo- 
tion. I  united  with  them  in  prayer,  and  at  their  request 
addressed  them  in  a  word  of  exhortation. 

Leaving  the  Wyandott  settlements  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  13th,  and  traveling  north  I  entered  the  Delaware  lands. 
Soon  after  starting  I  became  indisposed,  and  as  I  traveled 
on  grew  worse,  head,  back,  and  limbs  suffering  exceedingly, 
and  every  indication  of  an  attack  of  violent  disease.  With 
great  difficulty  I  reached  the  house  of  a  Delaware  man  named 
Johnny-Cake,  a  Baptist  preacher  of  excellent  reputation 
and  in  comfortable  circumstances  of  life.  Here  and  pre- 
vious to  reaching  his  home,  I  had  a  new  illustration  of  the 
cold,  phlegmatic  indifference  of  the  Indian  character.  I 
was  in  a  state  of  intense  suffering,  almost  incapable  of  tak- 
ing care  of  myself,  much  less  of  my  animals  ;  I  fell  in  with 


INDIAN  INDIFFERENCE — FORT  LEAVENWORTH.   257 

several  Indians,  men  of  prominence,  and  I  believe  of  piety, 
and  I  saw  not  the  least  indication  of  sympathy,  or  evidence 
that  they  in  any  way  appreciated  my  condition.  They 
seemed  to  expect  me  to  do  as  they  do  under  similar  circum- 
stances, turn  my  horses  loose  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and 
crawl  into  the  shade  to  die  alone,  or  to  get  well,  as  it  might 
turn  out*  Positive  unkindness  I  have  rarely  found  among 
Indians,  but  absolute  unconcern  and  indifference  to  the  fate 
of  others  seems  to  be  a  constituent  element  of  their  char- 
acter. I  drove  my  team  into  the  inclosure  of  my  Indian 
host,  tied  up  my  horses,  crawled  into  the  carriage,  and  put 
through  the  night  I  scarcely  know  how. 

A  sudden  and  severe  attack  of  disease  is  trying  to  the 
faith  and  patience  even  when  surrounded  by  home  and 
friends,  but  alone,  friendless,  far  from  home,  with  at  least 
semi-savage  surroundings,  the  feelings  inspired  are  known 
only  to  those  who  have  realized  them.  But  God's  grace  is 
sufficient. 

By  morning  my  fever  had  in  some  degree  abated,  and  I 
was  able,  by  moving  slowly  and  cautiously,  to  hitch  up  and 
pursue  my  journey.  Judging  that  the  attack  was  about  to 
prove  intermittent,  I  thought  it  prudent  to  avail  myself  of  a 
partial  respite  in  making  my  way  across  the  Missouri  River 
into  the  State  of  Missouri,  to  a  place  of  which  I  had  learned, 
where  I  might  expect  to  find  Christian  hospitality  and  kind- 
ness in  the  event  of  protracted  illness. 

Fearing  another  paroxysm  I  drove  briskly  and  soon 
found  myself  at  Fort  Leaven  worth.  I  had  at  that  time  little 
eye  for  the  beauties  of  the  spot  which  have  since  become 
familiar  with  me.  Fort  Leavenworth  is  one  of  the  most 
commanding  positions  occupied  by  any  of  our  western  mil- 
itary posts.  Situated  upon  a  bold,  majestic  bluff  of  Mis- 
souri River,  commanding  an  extensive  prospect,  with  fertile 
prairies  and  abundant  timber  in  its  rear,  it  can  scarcely  be 
surpassed  or  equaled.  The  buildings  are  large  and  substan- 
tial, and  several  thousand  acres  of  land  are  under  cultiva- 
tion. This  post  commands  the  entrance  upon  the  great 

22 


258  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

western  thoroughfares,  and  consequently  becomes  a  place  of 
depot  and  rendezvous  for  those  further  west,  constituting  it 
the  most  important  station  upon  the  frontier.  The  only 
military  display  that  then  met  my  eye  was  a  stripling  in 
uniform,  sword  in  hand,  and  scabbard  dangling  at  his  side, 
following  up  a  one-horse  cart,  with  four  lazy,  lounging- 
looking  fellows,  alternately  loading  and  riding  upon  it;  a 
pretty  fair  specimen  of  soldiers'  labor  at  our  forts.  A  few 
miles  below  is  Leavenworth  City,  since  grown  to  be  a  place 
of  reputation,  but  then  existing  only  in  name  and  intention. 
Crossing  the  Missouri  River,  I  again  entered  the  State  at 
Weston.  This  place,  when  first  on  the  Missouri,  eleven 
years  before,  I  had  heard  of  as  the  terminus  of  steam- 
boat navigation  and  the  leading  place  of  trade  for  the 
inviting  tract  of  country  then  recently  added  to  the  State  of 
Missouri,  under  the  name  of  "Platte  Purchase;"  and  con- 
stituting, though  seemingly  overlooked  at  the  time,  the  first 
real  infraction  of  the  Missouri  Compromise  of  1820.  Now 
a  large  population  had  poured  into  that  section.  Weston 
had  grown  to  be  a  populous  town,  had  its  day  of  trade,  and 
business  had  passed  out  of  its  hands  to  a  point  higher  up, 
where  the  city  of  St*  Joseph  had  been  located  at  a  later 
day,  and  had  become  the  center  of  a  large  and  flourishing 
business  which  it  still  retains.  Such  is  the  rapid  growth  of 
American  cities,  and  such  the  sudden  transitions  caused  by 
the  opening  up  of  new  and  unexpected  channels  of  trade.* 

'*  St.  Joseph  has  in  turn  been  prostrated  by  the  influence  of  the  war 
and  its  sympathies  with  the  rebel  cause.  Its  large  trade  is  forfeited ; 
business  has  passed  to  other  and  more  loyal  places  j  and  stern  military 
rule  has  been  required  to  keep  it  in  subjection.  No  place  within  my 
knowledge  has  paid  so  bitterly  for  its  disloyalty  and  suicidal  madness. 
Still  it  has  in  it  good  men  and  true.  May  they  yet  see  better  times  ! — 1863. 


EEV.  T.    B.    MARKHAM.  259 


CHAPTER   III. 

TRIP    NORTHWARD  — INCIDENTS. 

STILL  feeble,  suffering,  and  apprehensive  of  results,  I 
urged  on  my  course,  and  about  three  in  the  afternoon 
reached  the  house  of  Rev.  Thomas  B.  Markham,  then  resid- 
ing upon  the  bank  of  the  Missouri,  nearly  opposite  to  where 
the  town  of  Kickapoo,  in  Kansas,  now  stands.  Here  I 
found  a  brother  in  Christ  and  a  kind  Christian  family,  who, 
though  then  afflicted  themselves,  received  me  cordially,  sym- 
pathized in  my  condition,  and  ministered  to  my  necessities. 

Brother  MARKHAM  was  a  grave  yet  cheerful  Christian 
man  and  minister,  of  mild  and  engaging  disposition  and 
much  practical  good  sense.  He  had  been  a  local  preacher, 
steadfast  in  the  ranks  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church 
up  to  the  time  of  the  reorganization  of  Missouri  Conference 
in  1848,  when,  like  many  others,  stirred  by  the  necessities 
of  the  work  and  the  scarcity  of  laborers,  he  joined  the 
traveling  connection,  though  already  past  the  meridian  of 
life.  He  had  given  a  son  also  to  the  ministry,  said  to  have 
been  pious  and  promising,  who,  after  a  brief  service  in  itin- 
erancy, during  which  he  encountered  sharp  persecutions, 
fell  nobly  at  his  post  in  the  field  of  battle.  Brother  M.  was 
well  versed  in  the  history  of  affairs  in  Missouri  and  upon 
the  border,  had  spent  some  years  in  the  Indian  missions, 
and  was  able  to  give  me  much  interesting  and  valuable  in- 
formation. Before  leaving  I  engaged  him  to  take  charge  of 
the  work  in  the  settlements  of  Kansas  contiguous  to  Fort 
Leavenworth,  till  the  ensuing  Conference. 

According  to  expectation,  the  ensuing  day  brought  on 
another  paroxysm,  by  which  I  was  completely  prostrated, 
and  for  a  period  of  about  nine  days  I  was  confined  by  ill- 


260  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ness.  For  a  time,  uncertain  as  to  the  result,  it  was  natural 
that  my  thoughts  should  turn,  as  they  had  more  than  once 
done  before  under  similar  circumstances,  to  the  idea  of 
dying  from  home,  far  from  family  and  friends.  The  trial 
was  severe ;  but,  through  the  grace  of  God,  I  think  I  have, 
at  such  times,  always  felt  resignation  to  the  Divine  will. 
Once  I  well  remember  having  my  pocket-book  and  pencil 
brought,  and  feebly  tracing  what  I  supposed  might  be  a  last 
brief  line  to  the  companion  of  my  life,  who  has  since  pre- 
ceded me  to  glory. 

But  God  had  other  designs  for  me.  Through  kind  atten- 
tion and  medical  aid,  the  disease  was  arrested,  and  I  grad- 
ually grew  better.  As  I  improved,  the  conversation  of  my 
kind  and  pious  brother  entertained  me  much.  In  sight, 
just  upon  the  opposite  shore,  within  my  very  field  of  labor, 
were  the  Kickapoo  Bluffs,  on  which  the  village  of  the  tribe 
was  situated.  I  gazed  upon  them  with  delight  from  my 
bed,  while  I  listened  to  the  thrilling  incidents  of  their  his- 
tory from  the  lips  of  my  friend,  especially  that  of  the  very 
singular  and  extraordinary  career  of  their  noted  prophet, 
Ken-i-kuk — if  I  have  his  name  correctly — which  has  here- 
tofore been  given  to  the  public  through  other  channels. 
From  the  effects  of  this  attack  I  did  not  fully  recover  till 
Autumn ;  and,  .as  a  result,  the  remainder  of  my  trip  was 
performed  in  great  feebleness,  and  often  with  doubts  as  to 
whether  I  should  live  to  complete  it  or  not.  Still  I  was 
resolved  not  to  abandon  the  field  till  the  object  of  my  mis- 
sion should  be  accomplished. 

By  the  22d  I  began  to  feel  as  though  I  should  summon 
up  my  little  strength  and  again  address  myself  to  the  jour- 
ney. Hearing  of  a  meeting  of  some  days'  continuance  to 
be  held,  on  my  way,  in  a  neighborhood  on  the  Missouri 
side,  where,  it  was  said,  nearly  all  the  residents  had  "taken 
claims  "  in  Kansas,  and  intended  moving  over,  and,  being 
told  that  I  could  see  more  Kansas  people  there  than  at  any 
point  in  the  Territory,  I  determined  to  attend.  Brother  M. 
accompanied  me  to  the  place,  where  I  found  a  settlement  of 


SABBATH   IN   MISSOURI — ST.  JOSEPH.  261 

substantial  Indiana  farmers,  and  was  made  welcome.  I 
participated  in  the  Sabbath  services,  preaching  from  John 
iv,  35,  and  administering  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Sup- 
per. We  had  an  interesting  meeting,  and  I  saw  no  demon- 
stration of  hostility ;  though  I  subsequently  learned  that 
there  had  been  some  prating  on  the  subject  of  a  gratuitous 
suit  of  tar  and  feathers,  or  some  other  lynching  process. 
Repeatedly,  afterward,  for  years,  I  stopped  in  the  same 
neighborhood,  passing  and  repassing  without  molestation. 

At  this  place  I  formed  some  acquaintance  that  proved  of 
benefit  to  me  in  my  after  labors  in  the  Territory;  and  to  this 
neighborhood  I  afterward  found  occasion  to  retreat  to  find 
provision  for  myself  and  horse,  in  the  scarcity  and  want 
that  attended  the  early  settlement  in  the  contiguous  part  of 
Kansas.  Near  one  year  afterward,  just  about  the  time  of 
the  breaking  out  of  violence  in  Platte  county,  good  brother 
Markham  was  called  home  to  his  reward  without  witnessing 
the  worst  of  the  painful  struggle  which  ensued.  I  was 
called  to  preach  his  funeral ;  consented,  and  fixed  a  day ; 
but  the  scenes  of  outrage  meantime  had  opened ;  the  Platte 
county  interdict  upon  our  preachers  had  been  passed ;  and 
the  family  never  made  the  appointment. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  I  drove  to  St.  Joseph,  put 
my  horses  in  livery,  and  sought  out  some  kind  friends  with 
whom  I  might  rest  and  recruit  a  few  days ;  found  disease 
prevailing  in  the  place  to  a  great  extent.  My  purpose  had 
been  to  cross  into  the  Territory  on  horseback  at  this  point, 
and  visit  contiguous  settlements,  but  continued  feebleness 
compelled  me  to  change  my  plans.  Finding  myself  unable 
to  manage  my  team,  I  determined  to  dispose  of  them,  and 
commit  myself  to  the  stage-route  up  through  North-West- 
ern Missouri,  stopping  at  different  points,  and  making  ex- 
cursions into  the  Territories  as  health  and  circumstances 
allowed.  I  accordingly  sold,  at  low  rates,  my  carriage 
and  horses,  with  such  part  of  my  equipage  as  I  could, 
gave  away  the  remainder,  and  prepared  for  another  mode 
of  travel. 


262  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

After  a  rest  of  a  few  days,  taking  a  carriage  in  company 
with  a  friend,  I  crossed  into  Kansas,  and  visited,  so  far  as 
practicable,  the  contiguous  settlements  upon  the  Kickapoo 
lands,  which  I  found,  at  that  time,  to  be  the  most  extensive 
white  settlement  I  had  yet  seen  in  the  Territory.  People 
were  moving  in,  and  cabins  being  erected  with  rapidity. 
During  this  excursion  I  had  an  interesting  visit  to  the  wig- 
wam of  Wa-the-na,  a  man  of  some  consequence  among 
the  Kickapoos,  and  found  his  establishment  fitted  up  after 
the  real  Indian  style,  but  superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind 
I  had  witnessed.  The  domicile  consisted  of  two  large  bark 
camps,  of  two  apartments  each ;  the  sides  within  were  hung 
with  flag  matting,  and  the  apartments  furnished  with  bed- 
ding of  the  same  material.  The  males  of  the  household 
were  engaged  in  catching  and  breaking  wild  oxen,  and  the 
females  were  employed  in  manufacturing  the  flag  matting. 
Marks  of  thrift  and  neatness  were  apparent,  not  commonly 
found  in  Indian  life.  A  Kansas  town,  near  the  place,  now 
bears  the  name  of  the  former  lord  of  the  soil. 

Returning  to  St.  Joseph,  I  took  my  passage  in  the  stage 
for  Council  Bluffs  on  the  28th,  with  the  privilege  of  stop- 
ping at  such  points  as  I  might  think  proper.  Feeble  as  I 
was,  I  found  that  I  must  start  in  the  evening  and  travel  all 
night.  Detained  at  one  time  on  the  bank  of  the  Nodaway, 
waiting  for  the  ferryman,  and  worn  down  by  fatigue  and 
debility,  I  lay  down  upon  the  ground  and  slept  an  hour; 
awoke  and  found  myself  chilled ;  was  alarmed  for  the 
probable  results,  but  traveled  on  and  experienced  no  bad 
effects.  I  stopped  a  little  after  daylight  at  Oregon,  the 
county  seat  of  Holt  county,  some  ten  miles  back  from  the 
river. 

Here  I  left  the  stage  and  obtained  a  horse,  intending  to 
cross  into  the  Territory  at  the  mouth  of  Great  Nemaha,  then 
understood  to  be  the  dividing  line  between  the  Territories  of 
Kansas  and  Nebraska.  By  wrong  advice  I  had  been  led,  as 
I  found,  to  stop  about  half  a  day  too  soon,  and  was  sub- 
jected to  a  long  additional  ride  on  horseback,  for  which  I 


CABIN  HOSPITALITY — NEBRASKA   REACHED.      263 

was  illy  competent.  For  some  twenty  miles  I  followed  the 
stage  road  along  the  bluffs,  and  then  leaving  them  turned 
in  the  direction  of  the  river,  arriving  in  the  afternoon  at 
the  cabin  of  Colonel  Archer,  where  I  found  a  kind  home 
among  Tennessee  Methodists^  recently  settled  in  Missouri 
Bottom.  The  day  following  being  the  Sabbath,  learning 
that  there  was  an  appointment  for  preaching  upon  the  river 
some  miles  distant,  I  resolved  to  attend.  Accordingly, 
under  the  guidance  of  one  of  the  Colonel's  daughters,  a 
skillful  equestrian  and  pilot,  I  traveled  through  a  densely- 
timbered  bottom  to  the  place.  Here  tipon  the  bank  of  the 
river,  at  the  house  of  old  brother  Proctor,  I  found  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  cabin  hospitality,  neatness,  and  cheerful 
piety  that  it  has  been  my  lot  to  meet  with.  I  had  a  good 
rest  in  the  morning ;  in  the  afternoon  listened  to  a  sermon 
from  a  good  brother,  exhorted  a  little,  and  had  a  comfort- 
able season. 

On  the  day  following  my  kind  host  volunteered  his 
services  to  take  me  across  the  river  in  a  canoe,  ran  up  the 
Great  Nehama  a  little  way,  and  landed  for  the  first  time 
upon  the  soil  of  Nebraska  Territory.  Finding  no  settlers 
here,  I  spent  some  time  in  meditating,  prospecting,  writing, 
etc.;  recrossed  the  river  and  returned  to  the  cabin  of  my 
pioneer  friend. 

Returning  to  Oregon,  I  again  took  stage  early  on  the 
morning  of  August  1st,  and  about  midnight,  crossing  the 
State  line,  reached  Sidney,  Iowa.  Here  I  again  left  the 
stage,  obtained  a  horse,  and  set  off  with  a  guide  for  the 
Territory,  about  fifteen  miles  distant.  Reaching  the  Missouri 
River  opposite  old  Fort  Kearney,  I  was  surprised  to  find  a 
fine  steam  ferry-boat.  The  enterprising  proprietors  of  the 
two  young  cities  just  laid  out  at  the  site  of  the  old  fort, 
determining  to  "take  time  by  the  forelock,"  had  made  pro- 
vision for  an  anticipated  amount  of  travel  and  emigration, 
and  consequent  ferry  patronage,  which  has  never  been  real- 
ized. My  first  crossing  at  this  point  was  under  pleasant 
auspices.  But  this  was  of  short  duration,  and  many  weary 


264  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZIOff. 

hours  have  I  since  lingered  and  shivered,  or  sweated  upon 
the  shore,  waiting  the  slow  movements  of  one  of  the  most 
dilatory  flat-boat  transits  upon  the  river.  Many  of  the 
early  improvements  in  this  country,  especially  in  the  vicinity 
of  contemplated  cities,  were  ahead  of  the  times,  and  were 
compelled  to  take  a  step  back  till  the  actual  wants  of  the 
country  should  call  for  their  reappearance. 

OLD  FORT  KEARNEY  was  an  evacuated  military  post,  the 
name  and  the  troops  having  been  transferred  to  a  new  post 
about  two  hundred  miles  up  the  Platte  River.  A  substantial 
block-house,  one  old  log  dwelling,  and  the  remains  of  a  set 
of  rude,  temporary  barracks,  were  all  that  was  there  to  be 
seen  of  the  old  fort.  Squatters  had  taken  possession  of  the 
lands,  and  the  two  rivals,  Nebraska  City  and  Kearney  City, 
had  been  laid  off,  the  one  above  and  the  other  below  the 
mouth  of  South  Table  Creek.  The  site  of  the  old  fort, 
now  of  Nebraska  City,  is  bold  and  fine.  I  found  a  single 
frame  shanty  erected,  in  which  were  a  few  goods,  and  a 
single  settler  in  the  old  fort  cabin  in  the  person  of  Major 
Downs.  The  Major  had  served  through  the  Mexican  war, 
accompanied  by  his  heroic  wife  ;  afterward  was  a  sergeant 
among  the  troops  at  the  garrison,  and,  on  its  evacuation, 
had  been  left  in  charge  of  the  Government  property.  Being 
on  the  ground  and  in  actual  possession  at  the  passage  of  the 
organizing  act,  he  laid  his  "claim"  upon  the  land  on 
which  the  fort  stood,  and  became  the  original  proprietor  of 
Nebraska  City.  I  found  him  to  be  a  frank,  generous- 
hearted  soldier,  possessing  some  noble  traits  of  character, 
with  some  unfortunate  remains  of  army  habits.  He  took 
me  to  his  house,  treated  me  kindly  and  generously,  ex- 
hibited quite  an  interest  in  my  mission,  took  down  his  city 
plat,  and,  in  my  presence,  marked  off  certain  lots,  since 
risen  to  a  value  equal  to  five  times  the  outlay  and  expenses 
of  my  whole  trip,  which  he  then  and  there  donated  to  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  Major  D.  has  since  served 
one  term  in  the  Nebraska  Legislature,  and  has  been  ap- 
pointed Major-General  of  the  militia  of  the  Territory. 


OTOE   INDIANS.  265 

Others  became  interested  with  him  in  the  proprietorship  of 
the  city,  and  in  the  result  he  reaped  but  little  pecuniary 
benefit  from  his  early  occupancy.  But  in  my  reminiscences 
of  Nebraska  pioneers  I  shall  never  forget  Major  Downs  and 
his  amiable  lady.  Their  house  has  always  been  open  for 
personal  accommodation  or  for  public  religious  service,  and 
his  large  heart  has  always  stood  out  in  generous  actions. 
They  have  both  for  some  time  been  seeking  for  a  higher  life. 
I  hope  to  meet  them  above.* 

Almost  the  entire  tribe  of  Otoe  Indians  were  encamped 
about  this  place.  The  time  having  not  yet  quite  arrived  at 
which,  by  treaty,  they  were  to  give  possession  of  their  ceded 
lands  and  retire  to  their  reserve,  the  white  settlers  were  only 
in  by  sufferance,  and  the  wily  Indians  fleeced  them  well  for 
the  privilege  ;  not  only  exacting  a  bonus  from  every  settler, 
but  hanging  around,  begging,  and  stealing,  much  to  their 
annoyance.  Our  clothing  and  equipage  had  to  be  carefully 
kept  out  of  their  way.  One  of  their  number,  a  sturdy 
Indian  man,  belabored  me  to  write  him  a  "  begging  paper," 
such  as  are  often  carried  by  them  in  their  excursions  through 
the  settlements,  written  by  some  unprincipled  white  man, 
and  setting  forth  false  pretensions  to  character  and  claims 
for  aid.  The  gift  of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  at  length  silenced 
his  importunity  and  rid  me  of  him. 

I  subjoin  an  extract  from  one  of  my  published  letters, 
dated  "Old  Fort  Kearney,  August  5th:" 

"They  [the  Otoe  tribe]  came  together  unsolicited,  to  wit- 
ness a  Fourth  of  July  celebration,  gotten  up  by  Major 
Downs,  and,  as  far  as  practicable,  to  share  in  its  festivities. 
The  affair  is  said  to  have  left  its  projector  several  hundred 
dollars  minus.  To  his  no  small  annoyance  the  tribe  re- 
main. They  are  in  a  destitute  condition,  awaiting  supplies 
promised  by  the  Government  but  delayed.  The  Otoes  are 
an  inferior  tribe,  retaining,  in  a  great  degree,  their  primitive 


*  Major  D.   has   since   served   honorably   in   his  country's  cause   as 
Lieutenant-Colonel  of  Nebraska  Volunteers.— 1863. 

23 


266  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Indian  habits,  generally  drunken  and  thievish;  the  men  idle 
and  worthless,  the  women  mere  beasts  of  burden,  cutting 
the  wood,  carrying  the  water,  and  performing  all  the  drudg- 
ery, while  their  lords  look  upon  them  and  their  labors  with 
silent  contempt  as  they  repose  and  fan  themselves  in  the 

shade I   this   morning   witnessed   an    Indian 

funeral.  The  child  of  Big  Soldier,  an  Otoe  Brave,  died  on 
yesterday  afternoon.  According  to  their  National  custom 
the  evening  was  spent  in  loud,  plaintive  wailmgs,  or  rather 
howlings,  to  which  I  sat  and  pensively  listened.  Early  this 
morning  the  squaws  dug  the  grave  upon  an  elevated  spot  in 
the  prairie.  Soon  the  body  was  borne  to  the  grave  in  a 
rude  box,  followed  by  a  flag,  which  was  planted  near  by. 
The  wailing  was  renewed  for  a  time,  the  male  mourners 
having  their  faces  blackened.  The  body  was  deposited,  and 
the  earth,  which  had  been  thrown  out  upon  a  buffalo  skin, 
was  slowly  scraped  in  with  the  hands,  sufficient  to  cover  it 
over.  This  was  followed  with  a  layer  of  stone,  carefully 
laid  down,  after  which  I  left  them  filling  the  grave.  They 
leave  the  flag  at  the  place  and  kindle  fires  around  for  some 
days. 

"In  the  minds  of  those  who  have  long  been  on  the 
frontier  there  is  but  little  feeling  for  the  Indians,  and,  with 
many,  bitter  hostility  against  them.  It  is  becoming  com- 
mon among  them  to  appeal  to  the  Bible  in  proof  of  the 
inferiority  and  proper  subjection  both  of  the  African  and 
Indian  races.  I  suppose  they  learn  this  from  their  theo- 
logians. A  loquacious  politician,  with  whom  I  recently 
traveled,  appealed  to  Scripture  in  support  of  his  positions, 
regarding  the  predictions  of  Noah  in  reference  to  his  de- 
scendants as  covering  the  whole  ground  of  the  perpetual  en- 
slavement of  the  one  race  and  the  extermination  of  the  other. 
True,  he  fell  into  the  slight  mistake  of  reversing  the  proph- 
ecies as  to  Shem  and  Japheth,  and  locating  all  in  the  first 
chapter  of  Genesis  ;  but  with  a  politico-theologian  this  was 
only  a  trivial  error.  To  his  own  mind  the  argument  was 
conclusive,  and  sufficient  to  silence  all  opposition." 


"SOWING  BESIDE   ALL  WATERS."  267 

Having  taken  all  the  steps  practicable  toward  the  intro- 
duction of  our  work  here,  I  took  leave  of  the  Major  and  his 
kind  family,  recrossed  the  Missouri,  and,  in  company  with 
Dr.  D.,  a  young  man  from  Indiana,  rode  to  a  cabin  at  the 
foot  of  the  bluffs,  which  I  found  to  be  the  residence  of  one 
who,  in  boyhood,  had  performed  for  me  the  kind  offices  so 
common  from  the  hands  of  juniors  in  a  hospitable  country 
Methodist  family,  now  the  head  of  an  exemplary  Christian 
household.  In  the  neighborhood  were  a  large  number  of 
my  former  acquaintances.  Cabin  hospitalities  over,  I  re- 
turned to  Sidney,  and  about  one  hour  after  midnight  again 
took  the  stage.  A  fine,  clear,  pleasant  night,  the  air  balmy 
and  refreshing ;  sat  outside  with  the  driver,  and  enjoyed  the 
scenery.  Passed  Tabor,  a  beautiful  site  upon  the  elevated 
prairie,  where  a  colony  of  Eastern  people  have  settled,  are 
making  farms,  building  a  town,  and  laying  the  foundation 
of  a  literary  institution  upon  the  plan  of  that  at  Oberlin, 
Ohio. 

It  has  often  been  my  practice,  when  traveling  by  stage, 
to  take  an  outside  seat  with  the  driver,  enjoy  the  air  and 
scenery  by  night  or  day,  converse  freely  with  the  driver, 
and,  as  occasion  offered,  drop  a  word  of  kind  counsel  or 
warning  to  exposed  and  misguided  youth.  A  scene  of  that 
kind  occurred  during  this  ride,  which  was  riveted  in  my 
recollection  by  subsequent  events.  My  driver  was  agreeable 
and  sprightly,  and  our  intercourse  pleasant ;  but  it  was 
soon  forgotten  by  me  in  after  scenes.  One  cold  Winter 
evening,  in  after  years,  when  in  the  State-House  of  Ne- 
braska Territory,  at  Omaha,  awaiting  the  hour  of  divine 
service,  a  member  of  the  Territorial  Legislature,  then  in 
session,  seated  himself  by  my  side,  and  commenced  conver- 
sation. "Do  you  remember,"  said  he,  "on  one  night,  in 
the  Summer  of  18 — ,  traveling  in  the  stage  from  S.  to  G.?" 
"I  do,"  was  my  reply.  "Do  you  recollect  taking  your 
seat  outside  with  the  young  man  that  was  driving,  convers- 
ing with  him,  and  giving  him  some  advice?"  "I  have 
some  recollection  of  the  circumstance,"  said  I.  "Well," 


268  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

added  he,  "I  am  that  young  man,  and  I  have  long  desired 
to  meet  you  that  I  might  thank  you  for  the  advice  of  that 
hour."  He  was  then  the  head  of  a  family,  a  member  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  representing  his 
county  as  a  Legislator.  Seldom  have  I  met  with  so 
striking  an  illustration  of  the  "blessedness'*  of  "sowing 
beside  all  waters." 

Early  the  next  morning  we  entered  Glenwood,  the  county 
seat  of  Mills  county,  Iowa.  The  sun  was  casting  its  first 
rays  upon  the  neat  little  white  cottages  of  the  village,  en- 
sconced in  a  grove  between  the  high  bluffs  of  Keg  Creek. 
The  appearance  impressed  me,  and  had  something  to  do  in 
leading  me,  at  a  later  period,  to  "pitch  my  moving  tent" 
in  its  vicinity,  from  which  I  have  for  years  gone  in  and  out 
to  my  Territorial  field,  and  at  which  I  now  pen  these  lines — 
a  spot  endeared  to  me  by  joys  and  sorrows  never  to  be  for- 
gotten. 

Next  we  passed  St.  Mary's,  a  village  of  foreigners,  upon 
the  bank  of  the  Missouri,  and  nearly  opposite  Bellevue, 
Nebraska.  This  place  is  the  head-quarters  of  Colonel  Peter 
A.  Sarpy,  an  old  Indian  trader,  who  has  spent  much  of  his 
life  in  the  service  of  the  American  Fur  Company — a  man 
of  singular  character  and  habits,  extensively  known,  and 
possessing  great  influence  with  the  Omaha  tribe,  and  also 
at  Washington  City.  He  claims  to  have  first  shown  to 
Colonel  Fremont  the  route  through  the  South  Pass  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  I  have  received  many  marks  of  kind- 
ness at  his  hands. 


COUNCIL   BLUFFS   CITY.  269 


CHAPTER   IV. 

UPPER    NEBRASKA  — HOMEWARD    TRIP. 

ON  the  morning  of  August  4th  the  stage  brought  up  at 
Council  Bluffs  City,  the  terminus  of  their  route,  and  almost 
the  northern  extreme  at  that  time  of  white  settlement.  This 
place  had  been  originally  settled  by  Mormons,  and  had 
borne  the  name  of  Kanesville.  The  original  Council  Bluffs 
are  upon  the  Nebraska  side,  about  fifteen  miles  further  up 
the  Missouri.  They  were  so  named  from  a  Council  held 
there  with  the  Omaha  Indians,  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  upon 
their  famous  western  expedition.  A  garrison  was  after- 
ward placed  there,  and  it  took  the  name  of  Fort  Calhoun. 
Kanesville  became  a  starting-point  for  Salt  Lake  and  sub- 
sequently for  the  Plains  generally.  It  passed  into  other 
hands,  considerable  trade  sprang  up,  a  land-office  was 
located  there,  and  the  more  imposing  name  of  Council 
Bluffs  was  borrowed  from  the  opposite  side — there  being 
none  there  to  resist — and  substituted  for  their  former  cogno- 
men. It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  range  of  bald  bluffs, 
partially  in  the  mouth  of  a  ravine  through  which  flows  a 
small  stream,  and  about  three  miles  from  Missouri  River. 
tt  was  the  principal  town  upon  the  "Western  Slope,"  and 
;;till  maintains  its  ascendency. 

Having  rested  here  for  a  season,  received  letters  from 
home,  formed  some  acquaintance,  and  obtained  what  in- 
iormation  I  could,  I  prepared  for  another  excursion  into 
the  Territory.  Having  reached  the  extreme  of  northern 
r-ettlement  in  Nebraska,  this  would  close  the  present  tour. 
r  "oo  feeble  to  risk  horseback  traveling,  I  hired  a  carriage 
»nd  driver,  and  crossed  the  Missouri  River  to  the  town-site 
of  Omaha,  nearly  opposite  to  Council  Bluffs.  Here  I  found 


270  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

another  steam-ferry  under  way,  one  which,  being  upon  a 
great  thoroughfare,  has  been  sustained.  Arrived  at  the  site 
of  Omaha,  I  found  not  a  single  building,  and  only  a  solitary 
pile  of  lumber  upon  the  ground.  A  few  claim-houses  had 
been  built  in  the  vicinity,  but  no  settlers  were  found.  In 
silence  I  traversed  the  vast  plateau,  where  since  a  young  city 
has  sprung  up,  ascended  the  eminence  upon  which  the  cap- 
itol  now  stands,  and  listened — rather  incredulously  I  must 
confess — to  the  future  plans  and  expectations  of  the  movers 
in  the  enterprise. 

It  was  with  men  I  had  to  do,  and  finding  no  settlers  here 
I  took  my  course  down  the  river  in  search  of  human  habit- 
ations ;  none  appeared,  save  untenanted  claim-houses,  till  I 
reached  Bellevue.  The  reader  may  desire  to  know  some- 
thing of  the  process  of  "  taking  claims  "  in  the  Territories. 
It  was  done  previous  to  the  survey  of  the  lands,  and  is  a 
proceeding  not  governed  by  any  law  except  the  voluntary 
internal  regulations  of  the  settlers  themselves.  The  Gov- 
ernment, however,  has  always  leaned  toward  the  claims  of 
these  actual  occupants,  and  being  on  the  ground  they  were 
ready  for  pre-emption  or  purchase  so  soon  as  the  lands  were 
surveyed  and  the  offices  opened  ;  meanwhile  the  squatters 
were  mutually  bound  to  protect  each  other  in  the  possession. 
The  particular  formalities  used  in  "taking  a  claim"  were 
said  to  be  to  cut  four  sapling  poles,  haul  or  carry  them  to 
the  spot,  lay  them  down  across  each  other  in  the  form  of  a 
cabin  foundation,  then  stick  your  ax  in  the  structure,  and 
"  swear  you  will  die  by  it."  Claims  are  frequently 
"jumped,"  or  taken  a  second  time,  and  then  a  conflict 
ensued.  Lines  often  clashed  and  interfered  with  each  other. 
Much  strife  was  caused  and  many  lives  were  taken.  Even 
females  sometimes  shouldered  the  rifle  in  defense  of  the 
claim. 

The  only  adjustment  of  these  disputes  was  had  in  self- 
constituted  associations  of  squatter  sovereignty  in  the  sev- 
eral settlements,  a  kind  of  modern  court  of  piepoudre,  or, 
as  it  frequently  happened,  by  personal  rencounter  and  the 


BELLEVUE.  271 

death  of  one  of  the  parties.  The  man  from  whom  I  ob- 
tained  the  title  to  the  spot  of  my  present  residence,  aged 
perhaps  seventy  years,  removed  to  the  Territory  near  by, 
became  involved  in  claim  disputes,  and  himself  and  son 
with  two  other  men  suddenly  and  mysteriously  disappeared 
under  the  operation  of  squatter  law.  The  public  never  has 
certainly  known  their  fate,  but  the  universal  belief  is  that 
their  bodies  lie  in  the  Missouri  River.  Public  sentiment 
would  not  allow  an  inquiry,  and  the  event  has  scarcely  been 
noticed  beyond  the  immediate  region  in  which  it  occurred. 

Bellevue  was  an  old  trading-post  and  the  site  of  an  In- 
dian Agency.  But  the  most  important  and  interesting 
feature  of  the  place  was  the  location  of  a  Presbyterian  mis- 
sion, under  the  superintendency  of  Rev.  W.  Hamilton, 
whose  life  has  been  mainly  spent  in  the  work  of  Indian 
missions.  Here  were  spacious  log  buildings,  sufficient  to 
accommodate  a  large  boarding-school,  with  a  considerable 
farm  under  cultivation.  We  were  now  above  the  Platte,  in 
the  country  of  the  Omaha  Indians,  but  the  school  contained 
pupils  from  among  the  Otoes  also,  and  perhaps  from  other 
tribes.  Here  I  received  as  usual  a  missionary  welcome  from 
Rev.  Mr.  H.  and  his  kind  Christian  family,  as  well  as  the 
other  inmates  of  the  establishment.  For  a  few  days  I 
rested  ;  exceedingly  feeble  ;  spent  a  Sabbath  ;  kept  my  bed 
all  the  morning  ;  in  the  afternoon  preached  as  I  had  ability, 
opening  my  commission  in  Nebraska  Territory.  A  prayer 
meeting  followed  in  the  evening. 

While  here,  I  made  an  excursion  on  horseback,  in  com- 
pany with  my  excellent  host  and  another  friend,  to  the 
Platte  River,  with  difficulty  crossing  the  Papio  and  making 
our  way  through  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket  of  under- 
growth to  the  bank  of  the  stream.  Here  I  stood  upon  the 
low,  perpendicular  bank  of  sand,  and  gazed  upon  its  broad, 
rapid  current,  little  dreaming  of  my  after-familiarity  with  it 
to  its  mountain  sources,  of  the  days  and  nights  to  be  spent 
upon  its  banks,  and  the  many  refreshing  draughts  to  be 
taken  from  its  pure  current.  The  stream  is  known  by  two 


272  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

different  names,  "Nebraska"  and  "  Great  Platte  ;"  the  one 
from  the  Indian  and  the  other  from  the  French ;  both  of  the 
same  import,  signifying  "  Broad  Water,"  a  name  that 
would  at  once  be  suggested  as  appropriate  from  its  great 
width  and  shallowness.  It  is  almost  impassable,  from  the 
rapidity  of  its  current  and  its  quicksand  bottom.  In  a  sub- 
sequent part  of  this  volume  the  reader  will  be  made  more 
familiar  with  this  noble  stream. 

Bellevue  mission  has  subsequently  been  a  favorite  resort 
with  me  when  in  this  part  of  the  Territory,  and  I  have 
always  found  a  Christian  reception.  Taking  leave  of  the 
kind  family,  I  was  conveyed  by  Mr.  H.  to  the  ferry,  some 
miles  distant ;  crossed,  and  was  compelled,  feeble  as  I  was, 
to  walk  and  carry  my  baggage  one  mile  and  a  half  to  St. 
Mary's,  intending  to  take  the  stage  to  Council  Bluffs.  The 
stage  failed,  and  I  passed  the  night  at  a  miserable  house, 
revolving  in  my  mind  the  uncertainty  which  seemed  to  over- 
hang me  as  to  my  ability  then  to  return  to  my  home  and 
family.  In  the  morning  I  obtained  a  seat  in  a  private  car- 
riage, and  made  my  way  again  to  Council  Bluffs.  At  this 
visit  I  became  the  invited  guest  of  the  Pacific  House,  a  first- 
class  hotel,  early  erected  and  still  doing  a  large  business. 

The  exploration  northward  had  now  been  carried  to  the 
extreme  of  white  settlement  in  Nebraska.  Temporary  pro- 
vision had  been  made,  as  far  as  practicable,  at  each  point, 
for  preaching  to  the  scattered  settlers  till  Conference.  Had 
there  been  more  to  do,  ability  was  wanting.  I  again  rested 
a  few  days,  wrote  letters,  and  prepared  material  for  my 
report.  For  want  of  strength  the  design  of  returning 
through  Kansas  was  abandoned,  and  I  determined  to  take 
the  northern  route  through  Iowa  directly  home.  Walking 
one  day  in  the  street,  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  and  grati- 
fied to  meet  a  friend  and  member  of  my  late  charge  at  Rich- 
mond, the  residence  of  my  family.  Learning  that  he  was 
about  to  return,  I  at  once  placed  myself  under  his  charge, 
with  the  promise  that  he  would  gee  me  through  or  stay  by 
me  on  the  way. 


HOMEWARD    BOUND — IOWA  STAGING.  273 

The  prospect  ahead  was  by  no  means  pleasing ;  my  ex- 
treme debility  and  the  roughness  of  the  way ;  a  stage-ride 
of  over  three  hundred  miles,  day  and  night,  to  reach  the 
Mississippi,  with  poor  and  scanty  accommodations.  But 
the  direction  was  homeward.  At  three  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  the  10th  my  friend  and  myself  took  seats  in  the 
stage.  One  said  to  us  on  starting,  "You  will  get  a  good 

breakfast  at ,  and  then  you  will  find  nothing  more  to 

eat  for  the  next  hundred  miles,"  which  we  found  almost  lit- 
erally true.  Making  good  time,  we  reached,  in  the  evening, 
a  place  where  the  stage  usually  lay  by  for  one  night,  but  our 
driver  was  obstinate  and  would  go  on.  Arrived  at  Nodaway 
River  late  in  the  night ;  no  ferry,  and  crossing  bad.  The 
driver  attempted  to  take  us  over  upon  a  raft  of  logs ;  wor- 
ried a  long  time,  and  could  not  make  land  ;  came  back  and 
were  driven  through  in  the  stage.  Stopped  at  a  wretched 
cabin  ;  reconnoitered  the  premises  ;  had  a  place  offered  us 
on  the  floor ;  left  my  companion  to  occupy  it,  and  betook 
myself  to  the  stage  till  daybreak  ;  went  into  the  cornfield, 
gathered  some  green  ears,  roasted  and  ate  them,  and  was 
ready  at  the  call  of  the  driver. 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  under  such  fatigues  I  soon 
began  to  gain  strength,  owing,  I  suppose,  under  Providence, 
to  being  sheltered  from  the  sun,  exposure  to  which  had 
seemed  to  be  one  great  cause  of  my  continued  debility. 
The  country  became  more  pleasant  as  we  advanced.  About 
five  in  the  afternoon  reached  the  village  of  Winterset,  agree- 
ably situated  in  the  open  prairie.  On  the  12th,  which  was 
Saturday,  arrived  at  Fort  Des  Moines  and  stopped  for  the 
Sabbath.  Was  kindly  entertained  at  the  parsonage  by 
Rev.  Wm.  Butt,  formerly  of  Indiana  Conference,  since  a 
presiding  elder  in  Kansas.  Took  part  in  the  labors  of  the 
Sabbath,  and  on  Monday  morning  found  myself  refreshed 
for  the  continuance  of  my  journey.  In  the  stage,  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  crossed  the  Des  Moines  River; 
feeling  able  to  take  care  of  myself,  left  my  friend  to  pursue 
his  own  route.  Passed  through  Iowa  City  ;  struck  the  Mis- 


274  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

sissippi  at  Muscatine;  found  a  steamer  waiting  to  convey 
passengers  to  Davenport ;  becoming  so  attached  to  the  stage 
that  I  declined  to  leave  it ;  returned  to  my  seat  and  slept 
comfortably  in  the  stage  thirty  miles  to  Davenport,  which 
we  reached  about  two  in  the  morning  of  the  16th.  Rested 
a  few  hours  ;  crossed  the  Mississippi  to  Rock  Island ;  took 
cars  for  Chicago,  which  I  reached  at  five,  P.  M.,  and  found 
comfortable  quarters  at  the  Sherman  House.  Called  at  the 
Book  Rooms  and  spent  a  season  pleasantly  with  the  lament- 
ed Watson.  Passed  through  Michigan  City,  Lafayette,  In- 
dianapolis ;  met  many  of  my  brethren.  On  Friday,  August 
18th,  reached  my  home  at  Richmond,  having  telegraphed 
ahead,  and  found  my  children  awaiting  me  at  the  station- 
house,  with  many  thanks  to  God  for  his  abounding  good- 
ness to  me  and  mine  during  my  long  absence.  Through 
much  of  this  tour  a  strong  doubt  prevailed  in  my  mind 
whether  I  should  ever  again  be  restored  to  my  family.  But 
the  time  of  my  release  had  not  yet  come. 


REST— POPULATION   OF   TERRITORIES.  275 


CHAPTER   V. 

REST- REAPPOINTMENT  — START  FOR  KANSAS. 

NONE  but  the  laborer  knows  the  sweetness  of  rest ;  and 
none  who  has  not  endured  long  absence  from  home,  and 
family,  and  friends,  can  fully  appreciate  the  luxury  of  a 
return  to  the  society  of  loved  ones.  Never,  from  any  other 
earthly  source,  have  I  realized  the  rich,  full  flow  of  delight- 
ful emotion  that  has  been  caused  by  the  greetings  that  have 
met  me  at  my  threshold  after  long  and  painful  separations. 
If  ever  the  family  altar  witnessed  true  gratitude  it  has  been 
amid  the  hymns  and  prayers  of  our  first  common  devotions. 
But  these  ties  are  all  to  be  severed,  and  broken  fragments 
of  disjointed  households  to  be  left,  cherishing  only  the  sadly- 
pleasing  memories  of  the  past,  and  looking  forward  to  the 
eternal  reunion  of  heaven;  a  heaven  of  society;  a  heaven 
of  recognition. 

In  these  happy  greetings  my  kind  friends  at  Richmond 
participated,  and  with  my  family  and  them  I  enjoyed  a 
brief  season  of  respite  from  care  and  labor.  This,  however, 
was  of  short  duration.  A  report  of  the  past  was  to  be 
made,  and  there  was  a  future  yet  to  be  provided  for. 

Though  prevented  by  disease  and  debility,  during  my  late 
trip,  from  traveling  in  the  Territories  as  extensively  as  I 
had  desired,  still  I  had  visited  all  the  principal  settlements, 
and,  from  personal  observation  and  authentic  sources  of  in- 
formation, obtained  all  the  data  necessary  to  act  upon  in 
providing  a  supply  for  this  new  region.  The  number  of 
actual  residents  in  the  Territories  I  found  to  be  smaller  than 
generally  supposed.  Great  numbers  of  men,  at  the  opening 
of  the  lands  for  settlement,  or  even  before,  had  rushed  in 
and  taken  claims ;  but  in  most  instances  they  had  only 


276  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 

erected  a  shanty,  or,  what  was  still  more  frequent,  "laid  a 
foundation,"  to  secure  the  claim,  and  then  returned  to  their 
homes  in  the  States ;  some  intending  in  good  faith  to  return 
with  their  families,  and  hecome  actual  settlers ;  and  others, 
a  very  large  number,  only  designing  to  hold  on  to  the 
claim  for  purposes  of  speculation,  or  to  secure  other  privi- 
leges of  nominal  citizenship  and  control  in  Territorial 
affairs.  A  very  large  proportion  of  the  best  lands  in  both 
Territories,  those  immediately  upon  the  river,  had  been 
seized  by  the  citizens  of  the  States  immediately  over  the 
river,  and  were  held  by  them,  to  the  exclusion  of  bona  fide 
settlers,  till  advantageously  disposed  of.  My  deliberate 
judgment  was  that  there  were  not,  at  that  time,  five  hundred 
white  families  settled  in  the  entire  Territories  of  Kansas  and 
Nebraska  ;  and  so  I  reported. 

A  large  increase,  however,  was  anticipated  in  the  ensuing 
Fall,  and  for  these  provision  was  to  be  made.  A  full  report 
of  my  explorations,  and  of  the  condition  and  wants  of  the 
country,  was  made  out  and  laid  before  the  Bishops,  with  a 
recommendation  that,  for  the  present,  four  mission  circuits 
be  formed — -two  in  Kansas,  and  two  in  Nebraska — to  each 
of  which  a  preacher  should  be  sent  with  a  missionary  ap- 
propriation sufficient  to  maintain  him  for  one  year  ;  and 
that  the  two  Territories  be  included  in  one  district,  with  a 
presiding  elder,  or  superintendent  of  missions,  who  should 
travel  at  large,  make  further  explorations,  and  be  clothed 
with  discretionary  power  to  organize  new  fields  of  labor, 
divide  or  change  boundaries,  employ  preachers,  assign  them 
their  work,  and  perform  all  other  duties  which  emergencies 
might  require  in  the  interval  of  the  Conference  sessions. 
The  suggestions  met  the  approval  of  the  appointing  power, 
and  were  carried  into  effect  at  the  ensuing  session  of  the 
Conference.  The  Western  Territories  were,  at  that  time, 
attached  to  the  contiguous  Conferences  of  Missouri  and 
Iowa.  Some  vagueness  being  supposed  to  exist  as  to  the 
dividing  line,  and  it  being  thought  desirable  by  the  appoint- 
ing power  to  place  all  under  one  superintendency,  it  was 


MENTAL   CONFLICT.  277 

determined,  for  the  present,  to  supply  all  from  Missouri 
Conference,  in  whose  bounds  the  larger  portion  of  the 
actual  settlements  was  acknowledged  to  be  found. 

The  report  and  recommendations  referred  to  were  in- 
tended and  understood  by  me  to  be  a  closing  up  of  my  con- 
nection with  the  Territorial  work.  The  acceptance  of  an 
appointment  to  the  exploring  trip  was  expressly  understood 
to  place  me  under  no  obligation  to  a  continuance  in  that 
field ;  and  this  mutual  understanding  was  repeated  on  my 
return.  Misgivings  had  been  entertained  in  my  mind  from 
the  first ;  ill  health  during  my  recent  tour  had  ripened  these 
into  a  settled  conviction  that  I  ought  not  to  return  ;  and  I 
had  come  home  with  this  determination.  The  session  of 
my  Annual  Conference  was  approaching,  and  I  was  con- 
templating a  little  season  of  respite  then,  when  I  expected 
to  fall  into  the  ranks  and  take  an  appointment  as  usual. 

Opportunities,  meanwhile,  offered  for  occasional  inter- 
course with  one  of  the  Bishops,  at  which  the  Territorial 
work  and  the  manner  of  providing  for  it  were,  of  course, 
themes  of  conversation.  No  claims  were  held  upon  me  for 
the  work,  and  no  efforts  were  used  to  influence.  Repeated 
conversations,  however,  developed  the  fact  that,  in  the  event 
of  my  declining,  no  appointment  of  the  kind  would,  at 
that  time,  be  made,  there  being  at  hand  no  substitute ;  and 
that,  as  a  consequence,  the  organization  of  the  Territorial 
work  in  the  form  contemplated  would,  for  the  present,  be 
postponed,  and,  of  course,  the  benefits  of  the  labor  already 
expended  be  mainly  lost. 

This  state  of  things  brought  me  to  a  stand.  My  health 
had  continued  to  improve,  and,  with  returning  health,  a 
disposition  began  again  to  grow  up  to  go  to  the  frontier 
and  enter  the  inviting  field  there  opening  up.  It  is  said 
that  men  who  have  spent  a  few  years  upon  the  frontier  are 
rarely,  afterward,  satisfied  elsewhere.  So  it  has  proved 
with  me.  The  subject  was  reflected  upon,  consulted  over 
in  the  family  circle,  examined  in  all  its  bearings,  and,  I 
trust,  sincerely  prayed  over.  Doubts  and  hesitancy  existed 


278  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

in  the  family,  but  no  will  stood  opposed.  All  was  referred 
to  my  own  personal  convictions  of  duty  and  propriety. 
But  this  responsibility  only  rendered  a  decision  more  diffi- 
cult, and  the  point  still  remained  unsettled.  One  Sabbath, 
however,  while  in  the  labors  of  the  pulpit,  the  decision, 
well-nigh  formed  before,  was  consummated  and  announced. 
I  left  the  sacred  desk  committed  to  the  frontier  work.  The 
acceptance  was  communicated,  and  I  was  immediately  given 
to  understand  that  I  stood  appointed  to  the  superintendency 
of  the  new  field. 

A  decision  had  been  postponed  as  long  as  practicable  for 
the  purpose  of  allowing  a  season  of  rest  and  social  inter- 
course, well  knowing  that,  once  committed  to  the  work, 
rest  would  be  at  an  end.  So  it  was.  The  decision  made 
and  announced,  and  my  field  of  future  labor  fixed,  all  ener- 
gies were  thenceforward  bent  to  the  accomplishment  of  the 
purpose.  A  long  journey  was  to  be  provided  for ;  prepa- 
rations for  a  frontier  residence  to  be  made ;  private  business 
matters  to  be  put  in  a  suitable  train  for  leaving ;  besides 
many  preliminary  measures  to  be  taken  in  reference  to  my 
approaching  labors  and  duties.  All  interests,  private,  domes- 
tic, ministerial,  demanded  attention,  and  all  were  crowded 
into  a  small  compass  of  time. 

Soon  after  I  received  a  formal  transfer  to  the  Missouri  Con- 
ference, with  an  appointment  to  the  work,  and  at  a  subse- 
quent time  a  letter  of  instructions,  from  which  I  give  extracts: 

"REV.  WILLIAM  H.  GOODE: 

"DEAR  BROTHER, — I  have  this  day  transferred  you  to  tho 
Missouri  Annual  Conference.  You  are  hereby  appointed 
Superintendent  of  the  work  in  Kansas  and  Nebraska. 

"As  settlements  in  the  country  embraced  in  your  field  of 
labor  are  constantly  changing,  you  are  hereby  authorized  to 
divide,  enlarge,  or  change  the  circuits  as  in  your  judgment 
may  be  best. 

"  You  will,  on  no  account,  pay  missionary  money  to  any 
preacher  who  neglects  his  work. 


STRIKING   FOR   A   CONFERENCE.  279 

"Although  you  will  be  connected  with  the  Missouri  Con- 
ference, it  is  my  understanding  that  you  will  not,  at  any 
time,  be  required  to  labor  within  the  State  of  Missouri,  but 
will,  together  with  such  other  ministers  as  may  be  sent  for 
that  purpose,  remain  in  the  Territories  till  you  may  wish  a 
change. 

"  Praying  that  the  Divine  blessing  may  attend  yourself 
and  family,  1  remain 

"  Yours,  truly,  E.  R.  AMES." 

A  settled  determination  had  been  fixed  in  my  mind  that 
I  should  never  place  my  family,  mostly  females,  upon  Gov- 
ernment land.  I  had  neither  leisure  nor  inclination  to  enter 
into  the  "  claim  "  business.  This  I  stated  to  the  Bishop. 
It  was  accordingly  arranged  that  I  should,  in  addition  to 
the  general  charge,  be  appointed  to  the  Shawnee  mission  in 
Kansas,  thus  giving  me  the  occupancy  of  the  mission  farm 
and  buildings  upon  Wakarusa,  already  described,  with  a 
young  man  as  my  colleague,  who  should  make  his  home 
with  me,  and  perform  the  principal  labors  of  the  mission. 

The  design,  from  the  first,  was  the  erection,  at  as  early  a 
period  as  practicable,  of  an  Annual  Conference  in  the  Ter- 
ritories, and  my  instructions  were  to  act  with  reference  to 
that  end.  It  was  contemplated,  also,  that  several  preach- 
ers from  my  own  or  contiguous  Conferences  should  be  trans- 
ferred with  me,  and  a  full  supply  at  once  furnished  for 
the  now  field.  With  a  view  to  this  several  of  the  Annual 
Conferences  were  visited.  A  deep  interest  in  the  work  was 
manifested  ;  many  words  of  cheer  were  given  ;  funds  were 
freely  contributed  to  aid  in  erecting  churches  in  the  Terri- 
tories ;  several  esteemed  brethren  expressed  a  desire  to  ac- 
company me ;  but  when  they  came  to  the  point  of  imme- 
diate transfer  and  removal  none  were  ready.  The  supposed 
demands  of  their  own  Conferences,  the  importunity  of 
friends,  domestic  considerations,  or  other  reasons  prevailed, 
and  it  became  apparent  that  I  must  enter  the  field  alone  and 
single-handed. 


280  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Providence,  however,  sent  me  one  assistant.  Having 
heard  of  a  young  man,  a  graduate  of  the  Wesleyan  Uni- 
versity at  Middletown,  Connecticut,  recently  licensed,  and 
employed  in  the  North-Street  mission,  Indianapolis,  I  de- 
termined to  try  his  courage.  I  found  him  employed,  labor- 
ing with  his  hands  in  the  erection  of  the  new  church  edifice 
of  his  charge.  The  employment,  the  air,  the  whole  contour 
of  the  young  man  told  me  that  he  would  make  a  mis- 
sionary. A  proposition  was  made.  A  brief  space  was 
taken  for  consideration.  An  answer  was  received:  "I  will 
go."  This  decision  gave  to  myself  and  family  a  much- 
valued  friend,  and  to  the  work  in  Kansas  the  efficient  labors 
of  Rev.  James  S.  Griffing,  one  of  the  first  and  most  inde- 
fatigable explorers,  still  laboring  faithfully  in  the  ranks  of 
his  Conference. 

In  view  of  the  exciting  conflict  anticipated,  and,  indeed, 
already  begun  in  Kansas,  it  was  deemed  a  measure  of  pru- 
dence to  go  furnished  with  secular  credentials  in  the  form 
of  letters  of  introduction  from  men  in  public  life  to  whom 
I  was  personally  known — men  whose  position  was  such  as 
to  give  them  influence  with  the  then  existing  Administration 
and  its  appointees  in  the  Territories.  I  accordingly  wrote 
to  several,  and  obtained  a  prompt  response.  Gov.  J.  A. 
Wright,  Hon.  J.  D.  Bright,  of  the  United  States  Senate, 
T.  H.  Hendricks,  and  J.  G.  Davis,  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, kindly  furnished  me  with  letters  to  Gov.  Reeder 
and  others,  which  proved  of  no  small  service,  under  the 
peculiar  circumstances  of  the  day  and  place. 

Meanwhile  active  preparations  were  going  on  in  other 
departments.  An  obliging  friend  in  Richmond  selected  and 
bought  for  me  four  noble  draught  horses  ;  two  new  and 
substantial  wagons  were  purchased,  with  appropriate  rig- 
ging ;  the  tent  was  prepared  and  stretched  in  the  yard,  by 
way  of  experiment ;  camp  utensils  were  provided,  and  the 
family,  from  the  least  to  the  greatest,  put  in  traveling  trim. 
This  done,  the  wagons  were  placed  upon  the  scales  and 
weighed,  driven  to  the  door,  packed  to  their  utmost  capacity, 


THE  START — OUR  COMPANY — A  FAREWELL.   281 

then  re-weighed.  By  posted  notices  a  crowd  of  citizens 
was  collected,  and  the  residue  of  goods  and  chattels  placed 
under  the  hammer  and  sold  to  the  highest  bidder — about 
the  sixth  time  in  our  itinerant  life  that  we  had  been  auc- 
tioned out. 

All  being  ready,  leave  was  taken  of  our  kind  Richmond 
friends,  and  late  in  the  afternoon  of  September  28th — 
I  think — 1854,  we  crossed  Whitewater  bridge  and  took 
the  National  Road  west.  Our  company  consisted  of  myself, 
wife,  and  seven  children,  brother  Griffingand  another  young 
friend,  who  accompanied  us  ;  my  eldest  son  remaining  in 
Indiana  and  my  second  having  already  gone  West.  A  short 
drive  brought  us  to  comfortable  lodgings  with  a  kind  friend, 
and  the  two  days  following  to  Indianapolis.  A  case  of 
sickness  occurring  on  the  way,  required  Mrs.  Gr.  to  leave  our 
train  and  take  railroad  to  Indianapolis  in  advance,  to  pro- 
cure medical  aid  for  the  little  patient. 

Indianapolis  had  been  our  home  a  greater  number  of 
years  than  any  other  one  place,  and  a  large  circle  of  en- 
deared friends  surrounded  us.  A  Sabbath  was  spent ;  a 
season  of  worship  enjoyed  in  Roberts  Chapel,  and  leave 
taken.  Monday  came,  the  clouds  gathered,  and  the  rain 
poured  in  torrents  through  the  day.  All  looked  dark  and 
lowering.  But  the  hour  had  come ;  a  little  past  noon  the 
wagons  were  driven  up.  The  members  of  the  family, 
sheltered  from  the  pelting  storm,  were  helped  on  board, 
one  by  one.  Each  of  the  young  men  took  his  seat  on 
a  driver's  box  and  grasped  the  lines.  I  mounted  an 
extra  saddle  horse.  Down  Washington-street,  over  White 
River,  and  still  westward  was  our  course,  the  rain  still 
descending  in  torrents.  Dark  and  gloomy  seemed  the 
auspices  of  this,  our  second  long  westward  removal.  But 
erelong  the  rain  ceased,  the  clouds  dispersed,  and  the  sun 
shone  brightly  upon  the  land  of  our  home  as  we  looked  a 
farewell — the  last  to  one  of  our  company,  till  housed  in  the 
eternal  home  of  heaven. 

24 


282  OtTTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

TRAVEL    TO    K  A  N  S  A  S  —  I  N  C  I  D  E  N  T  S  . 

FOR  several  days  our  route  lay  through  Western  Indiana. 
The  entire  ground  had  been  occupied  by  me  in  my  previous 
fields  of  itinerant  labor  ;  all  was  familiar  ;  friends  were  met 
and  wants  kindly  supplied  at  every  stage,  insomuch  that  we 
were  not  allowed  to  take  up  the  regular  routine  of  camp 
life,  till  our  Rubicon,  the  Wabash,  was  passed,  the  State 
line  crossed,  and  Illinois  entered ;  where,  though  hearts 
may  not  have  been  less  large  and  warm,  acquaintance 
ceased,  and  we  became  strangers,  falling  in  with  the  west- 
ward tide  of  emigration,  with  nothing  to  distinguish  us 
from  the  restless  crowd  that  are  eagerly  hurried  on  by  the 
impulses  of  this  world.  Thenceforward  we  were  to  make 
our  own  way  as  others,  expecting  no  favors,  meeting  no 
sympathy.  To  myself  this  was  a  trifle  ;  on  behalf  of  de- 
pendent ones  it  cost  me  some  pangs.  We  submitted  to  our 
destiny.  The  regular  quid  pro  quo  gained  us  the  necessaries 
of  life.  Sometimes  we  met  with  those  whose  avowed  pur- 
pose was  to  "  skin  "  as  deeply  as  possible,  and  had  to  sub- 
mit to  a  "  sharp  practice ;"  and  then  again  we  fell  in  with 
others  who,  learning  our  position  and  objects,  seemed  to 
take  an  interest,  and  doubtless  sent  up  some  petitions  in  our 
behalf. 

Our  tent  was  first  spread  in  the  confines  of  Illinois,  and 
thenceforward  regularly  through  that  great  State,  and  the 
still  broader  one  of  Missouri,  till  the  Territorial  line  was 
passed.  The  weather  in  the  general  was  fine,  the  roads 
good,  and  all  circumstances  favorable.  Several  cases  of 
sharp,  temporary  illness  occurred  on  the  way,  requiring 
medical  aid,  but  none  of  them,  however,  proved  serious. 


CAMP  DISCIPLINE.  283 

We  hauled  our  sick  on  till  they  recovered,  and  realized  no 
bad  effects. 

A  strict  camp  discipline  was  introduced.  At  a  fixed 
hour,  long  before  the  dawn,  I  arose,  guided  by  my  watch, 
roused  up  the  fire,  and  called  up  the  operatives  of  our  com- 
pany, while  the  juniors  or  feeble  ones  continued  to  rest.  The 
steeds  were  fed,  curried,  and  harnessed,  the  morning  meal 
prepared,  our  devotions  offered,  the  repast  taken,  baggage 
and  camp  equipage  reloaded,  the  tent  struck,  and  each  one 
reseated.  "All  ready,"  and  the  line  of  march  was  taken 
up.  A  rest  was  allowed  at  noon,  the  team  baited,  and  a 
lunch  taken.  As  we  neared  the  setting  sun,  a  convenient 
grove  was  sought,  where  access  could  be  had  to  fuel  and 
water ;  the  teams  were  driven  up,  some  pitched  the  tent, 
while  others  collected  wood  ;  a  rousing  camp-fire  was  raised, 
around  which  the  group  of  all  ages  assembled,  and  the  early 
evening  hours  were  spent  in  cheerful  conversation  ;  the  steeds 
were  haltered  up  to  the  wagons  and  provided  with  full  sup- 
plies ;  supper  was  prepared,  evening  devotions  performed, 
the  demands  of  appetite  satisfied  down  to  the  youngest,  and 
with  grateful  hearts  all  retired  to  rest,  the  family  occupying 
our  tent,  and  others  making  a  dormitory  of  a  wagon.  After 
all  others  were  snugly  stored  away,  it  was  mine  to  pass 
around,  carefully  tuck  them  all  in,  closing  all  apertures, 
look  to  the  safety  and  comfort  of  the  teams,  adjust  the 
camp-fires,  and  then  myself  retire.  Candor,  however,  com- 
pels me  to  admit  that,  under  this  process  of  first  up  and  last 
down,  with  other  fatigues,  before  the  trip  was  completed  I 
"  caved  in,"  and  was  compelled  to  surrender  the  honor  of 
"  firing  the  first  gun"  of  the  morning  to  a  junior. 

Our  somewhat  spacious  tent  and  two  large  wagons,  five 
sturdy  and  sleek  steeds,  with  a  numerous  and  often  garru- 
lous company,  collected  around  our  evening  board,  by  the 
light  of  a  blazing  log  fire,  made  some  show  in  a  grove,  and 
often  attracted  attention  and  elicited  remark,  according  to 
the  different  habits  and  tastes  of  observers.  One  in  passing, 
perhaps  with  whetted  appetite,  was  heard  to  say,  "  I  intend 


284  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

to  go  there  and  board."  Another,  in  a  group  of  horseback 
travelers,  said,  "That  looks  like  camp  meeting."  This  was 
a  clew  to  their  character.  A  confab  ensued.  They  were  a 
company  of  Illinois  preachers  en  route  for  Conference.  At  a 
later  hour  in  the  evening  they  visited  our  camp.  A  season 
of  conversation  and  joint  worship  was  enjoyed,  and  we 
were  refreshed  together. 

Camp  life,  while  it  has  its  exposures  and  hardships,  has 
in  it  much  that  is  exciting  and  interesting.  My  family  ex- 
pressed a  decided  preference  for  camp  lodgings  over  the 
quarters  at  public  houses,  to  which  we  occasionally  resorted. 
We  regular  nomads,  who  are  much  upon  the  plains,  some- 
times raise  the  question,  whether,  after  all,  this  thing  of  liv- 
ing and  lodging  within  walls,  upon  floors,  under  roofs,  and 
walking  over  carpets,  is  not  an  innovation  upon  the  order 
of  nature. 

Our  Sabbaths  were,  of  course,  spent  in  camp,  and,  when 
practicable,  we  engaged  in  religious  services  with  those 
around  us.  Occasionally,  a  week-day  had  to  be  spent  in 
camp  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  up  domestic  arrange- 
ments ;  the  teams  rested,  and  the  whole  establishment  was 
temporarily  converted  into  a  laundry  and  bake-shop.  Pro- 
visions, as  we  advanced,  were  found  to  be  scarce,  and 
obtained  at  high  rates  ;  and  doleful  accounts  met  us  of 
failure  of  crops,  high  prices,  want,  and  probable  starvation 
on  the  frontier,  should  we  have  the  temerity  to  go  on. 

The  greatest  actual  inconvenience  suffered  was  from  want 
of  water,  through  the  fertile  but  dry  regions  of  Missouri. 
So  great  was  the  scarcity  that  even  the  few  that  had  a  supply 
of  good  pure  water,  defended  it  with  a  jealousy  that,  to  us, 
straitened  as  we  were,  seemed  ungenerous.  But,  then,  we 
were  looked  upon  as  mere  "Kansas  adventurers,"  and  little 
sympathy  was  felt.  Wells  were  guarded  or  locked,  pump 
cranks  taken  off,  and  access  interdicted,  sometimes  in  terms 
not  the  most  gentle.  The  ingenious  expedients  sometimes 
resorted  to  in  an  extremity,  by  our  juniors,  such  as  the 
application  of  our  monkey-wrench  in  place  of  a  removed 


SUPER-LEGAL   PLEA.  285 

crank,  etc.,  might  possibly  amuse,  but,  perhaps,  would  not 
bear  a  rigid  moral  analysis  on  any  other  ground  than  the 
super-legal  one  of  necessity.  While  chuckling  over  these 
exploits  around  the  camp-fire,  my  ears  would  sometimes  be 
reached ;  but  I  could  not  find  it  in  my  heart  to  censure  very 
severely,  especially  when  enjoying  the  cool  beverage  won  by 
their  adventures. 

Few  adventures  occurred  till  near  the  close  of  our  jour- 
ney. A  single  one  I  shall  never  forget,  for  the  momentary 
pang  it  produced.  Our  teams  were  carefully  managed,  well 
provided  for,  and,  consequently,  kept  in  good  spirits.  Now 
and  then  the  regular  drivers  took  a  short  recess,  and  com- 
mitted the  lines  pro  tern,  to  an  unpracticed  juvenile  of  our 
group.  On  one  such  occasion,  the  wagon  that  bore  the 
freight  of  human  life  was  intrusted  to  these  incompetent 
hands.  I  had  stopped  a  moment  at  a  wayside  house  on 
some  needful  errand,  and  was  then  walking  up  some  dis- 
tance in  the  rear.  The  little  charioteer,  in  endeavoring  to 
leap  from  his  seat  to  the  ground,  lines  in  hand,  tripped  and 
fell.  The  horses  took  fright  and  were  off  in  a  tangent  with 
all  our  feminines  and  little  ones  on  board,  increasing  speed 
at  every  jump,  as  though  they  would  drive  all  to  destruction. 
Distinctly  do  I,  even  now,  remember  an  audible  ejaculatory 
groan,  loudly  and  involuntarily  uttered,  and  falling  back 
upon  my  own  ear,  as  I  saw  them  passing  away  with  a  speed 
that  defied  our  efforts.  Providence  interfered.  The  lines 
dragging  loosely,  caught  upon  the  hub  of  the  wagon  and 
wound  around  it ;  and,  being  new  and  strong,  they  gradu- 
ally drew  the  excited  steeds  up  and  brought  them  to  a 
stand-still ;  thus,  under  God,  preventing  an  awful  calamity. 

Reaching  Springfield,  the  capital  of  Illinois,  I  found  the 
Conference  in  session,  spent  most  of  a  day,  enjoyed  an 
agreeable  interview  with  brethren,  had  some  consultation 
with  Bishop  Morris  touching  my  work,  and  sought  out  and 
visited  some  of  the  friends  of  my  childhood  from  whom  I 
had  been  long  separated. 

The  session  of  the  Missouri  Annual  Conference  for  that 


286  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

year  was  to  be  held  at  Hannibal.  To  that  Conference  I 
was  transferred,  and  within  its  nominal  bounds  I  was  to 
labor.  My  presence  was  needed  at  the  Conference  in  adjust- 
ing the  preliminaries  of  our  work.  My  aim  had  been  to 
reach  Hannibal  in  due  time.  Finding  that  the  teams  would 
fail  in  this,  I  left  our  company  to  proceed  of  themselves,  and 
took  the  railroad  train  west  for  Naples,  upon  the  Illinois 
JRiver,  the  terminus  of  the  road.  Arrived  in  the  evening. 
I  found  the  meager  hotels  preoccupied  by  a  circus  company, 
offering  their  intellectual  and  moralizing  entertainment,  and 
producing  the  usual  sensation  in  a  backwoods  western 
community.  The  "little  city"  was  all  astir.  "No  room 
for  strangers."  Their  place  had  been  honored  with  a 
demonstration,  and  the  "distinguished  guests"  must  be 
served  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  In  my  extremity,  I 
had  resort  to  an  expedient  never  practiced  by  me  except  in 
extreme  cases,  to  throw  myself  upon  my  Methodism,  and 
inquire  for  Church  members  ;  with  what  success,  and  how 
I  passed  the  night,  need  not  be  made  matter  of  history.  In 
the  morning  took  stage  for  Griggsville,  where  the  stage 
route  terminated ;  there  hired  a  horse  and  buggy  for  Han- 
nibal, and  reached  the  place  at  an  advanced  stage  of  the 
Conference  session. 

Here  a  disappointment  met  me,  rarely  equaled  in  my  life. 
The  understanding  already  had  for  our  occupancy  of  the 
mission  premises  among  the  Shawnees  has  been  stated. 
Toward  that  point  I  was  tending.  On  reaching  Hannibal, 
I  learned  that  the  title  of  the  farm  and  improvements  had 
been  transferred  to  an  Indian  who  wished  to  lay  his  large 
claim  or  head-right  under  the  late  treaty,  so  as  to  embrace 
these  premises.  It  had  been  sold  and  his  notes  taken  ;  pos- 
session to  be  given  in  the  Spring.  Here  I  was  brought  to 
a  stand ;  on  my  way  with  a  large  family  to  the  frontier, 
Winter  just  at  hand,  and  no  shelter  in  view.  The  sale  had 
been  wholly  an  unauthorized  one ;  but,  in  the  already- 
excited  state  of  affairs,  it  was  not  deemed  prudent  to  inter- 
fere with  it.  A  joint  occupancy  of  the  mission  premises 


MISSOUEI  CONFERENCE.  287 

till  Spring  was  proposed.  This  I  declined.  For  a  time,  I 
thought  of  changing  our  course,  passing  Kansas  by,  and 
steering  immediately  for  the  region  of  Council  Bluffs,  where 
I  now  reside,  and  which,  in  my  former  tour,  had  impressed 
me  as  a  desirable  and  convenient  location  for  my  future 
work.  But,  then,  I  was  already  committed  to  a  removal  to 
Kansas.  This  had  been  made  public  ;  my  intended  head- 
quarters made  known,  and  friends,  ministerial  and  others, 
invited  to  seek  me  out.  To  return  now,  or  even  to  change 
my  course,  might  be  misunderstood,  and,  unexplained,  might 
operate  to  the  prejudice  of  my  work.  These  considerations 
prevailed ;  an  onward  movement  was  resolved  upon  to 
Kansas,  at  all  hazards ;  leaving  future  details  to  be  guided 
by  Providential  indications.  That  man  of  God,  Rev. 
John  H.  Dennis,  then  late  presiding  elder  of  Hannibal  dis- 
trict, was  resident  in  the  place,  and  was  about  to  receive  an 
appointment  to  Wyandott  mission  in  Kansas,  and,  in  a  few 
weeks,  to  follow  on  with  his  family.  He  kindly  proposed 
to  shelter  me  and  mine,  if  need  required,  in  his  mission 
cabin,  till  we  could  erect  another  and  screen  ourselves  from 
the  storms  of  approaching  Winter. 

The  formal  Episcopal  sanction  was  now  given  to  what 
had  already  been  fixed  in  my  case.  My  name  was  enrolled 
as  a  member  of  Missouri  Conference,  and  my  appointment 
was  read  out  for  Kansas  and  Nebraska  district,  and  also 
for  Shawnee  mission,  though,  under  the  circumstances  now 
presented,  the  special  reason  for  my  appointment  to  the 
mission  did  not  exist.  W.  D.  Gage,  who  had  already  gone 
to  Nebraska,  was  appointed  to  Old  Fort  Kearney  mission, 
and  Thomas  J.  Ferril,  who  had  taken  a  claim  in  Kansas, 
was  assigned  to  Maries  Des  Cygnes.  No  other  was  found 
for  our  work  among  the  white  settlers  except  the  youthful 
J.  L.  Griffing,  who  was  sent  to  Wakarusa.  John  H. 
Dennis,  whose  health  had  so  far  declined  as  to  render  him 
incapable  of  effective  labor,  was  appointed  to  Delaware  and 
Wyandott  Indian  mission,  with  the  hope  that,  his  labors 
being  lightened  by  the  aid  of  native  preachers,  he  might, 


288  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZIOK. 

under  the  genial  influences  of  the  climate,  be  restored.  His 
state  of  health  then  demanded  a  release,  but  none  could  be 
spared  from  the  work. 

An  anomaly  appears  this  year  upon  the  face  of  the  Gen- 
eral Minutes  as  published.  A  confused  understanding  ex- 
isted as  to  the  claims  of  Iowa  and  Missouri  Conferences  for 
Territorial  jurisdiction,  and  the  Kansas  and  Nebraska  dis- 
trict appears  in  both  Conferences  ;  in  the  former  all  the 
appointments  "to  be  supplied,"  and  in  the  latter  with  the 
names  of  the  men  attached. 

The  district  to  which  I  was  appointed  as  superintendent, 
or  presiding  elder,  embraced  the  entire  Territories  of  Kansas 
and  Nebraska,  a  region  extending  from  the  State  lines  on 
the  east  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  west,  and  from  the 
waters  of  the  Arkansas  on  the  south  to  the  British  pos- 
sessions on  the  north,  a  territory  equal  in  extent  to  six 
times  that  of  the  largest  State  in  the  Union.  True,  much 
of  it  was  unsettled,  but  the  sparse  settlements  had  already 
spread  over  a  large  district  of  country,  and  great  accessions 
were  confidently  anticipated.  To  this  field  I  was  sent  with 
only  three  coadjutors,  one  of  these  an  aged,  gray-haired 
man,  and  another  a  stripling  just  admitted.  The  work  was 
to  be  provided  for  as  best  I  could.  Men  were  to  be  found, 
employed,  their  fields  assigned,  and  compensation  fixed. 
The  entire  responsibility  was  committed  to  individual  hands, 
besides  the  large  amount  of  personal  travel  and  labor  in- 
volved. 

These  matters  adjusted,  I  without  delay  started  back  to 
meet  my  family,  and  on  the  15th  day  of  October  found  them 
in  good  health,  encamped  on  the  east  bank  of  Illinois  River. 
In  my  absence  they  had  traveled  safely  and  prosperously, 
part  of  the  time  in  company  with  Rev.  Mr.  Blood,  a  Pres- 
byterian clergyman,  and  his  family,  with  whom  they  had 
fallen  in.  Mr.  B.  was  on  his  way  to  Kansas,  and  his  name 
is  since  identified  with  its  history.  Here  my  family  had 
encamped  to  spend  the  Sabbath,  and  to  take  another  day  for 
domestic  purposes.  While  encamped  here  a  steamboat 


RECONNOITERING.  289 

passed  up  and  stopped  for  a  time  at  an  uninhabited  island 
in  our  view.  I  knew  the  cause  of  their  detention;  they  were 
burying  a  man  who  had  died  on  board  from  cholera  ;  but 
for  the  time,  from  prudential  motives,  I  concealed  it  from 
our  company. 

A  few  days'  drive  brought  us  to  the  Mississippi ;  crossed 
and  encamped  in  the  suburbs  of  Hannibal ;  were  visited  by 
Rev.  J.  H.  Dennis  and  others  ;  arranged  some  further  pre- 
liminaries ;  passed  the  night  and  moved  on,  leaving  brother 
D.  and  family  to  follow  in  a  short  time.  Our  way  through 
Missouri,  this  time,  lay  over  a  fertile  country,  but  less  im- 
proved than  that  upon  my  former  route.  It  occupied  nearly 
three  weeks.  The  two  Sabbaths  included  were  spent  in  the 
pulpit,  one  of  them  in  that  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  South.  As  we  advanced  provisions  became  more 
scarce  and  dear,  and  accounts  from  the  border  more  dis- 
couraging, but  I  had  learned  long  before  not  to  be  turned 
away  from  my  course  by  floating  rumors. 

Arrived  within  about  forty  miles  of  Territorial  line,  I 
deemed  it  prudent  to  leave  the  family  and  go  in  advance, 
reconnoiter,  and  seek  a  temporary  shelter  to  which  I  should 
take  them  before  they  should  enter.  A  vacant  cabin  was 
obtained,  of  which  our  company  took  possession  for  a  few 
days,  and  I  set  out  again  on  horseback  upon  a  prospecting 
tour.  Sometimes  I  thought  of  stopping  for  the  Winter  in 
one  of  the  contiguous  towns  of  Liberty  and  Independence, 
and  renting  a  temporary  home,  whence  I  knight  travel  into 
the  Territories  ;  I  had  even  stopped  in  the  former  place  and 
made  some  contingent  arrangements.  This  plan  met  with 
no  favor  in  my  family  consultations  ;  they  were  for  going 
directly  into  the  Territory.  And  it  was  well,  for  these  two 
places  became  the  hot-beds  of  excitement  in  the  coming 
conflict ;  rivals,  as  has  been  before  seen,  in  the  heated  prose- 
cution of  Kansas  strifes  and  tragedies.  At  the  former  place 
was  the  arsenal,  from  which  the  United  States  arms  were 
subsequently  taken  to  be  used  in  the  conflict. 

Entering  the  Territory  I  met  the  committee  appointed  at 
25 


290  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

the  Conference  to  adjust  the  affairs  of  the  Shawnee  Mission 
premises.  They  had  just  returned  from  the  mission,  and  I 
learned  that  there  was  no  prospect  of  a  home  on  the 
Wakarusa.  I  then  called  upon  Colonel  Robinson,  the 
United  States  Agent  for  the  Shawnees,  Delawares,  and  Wy- 
andotts,  explained  my  mission,  and  asked  his  permission  to 
make  a  temporary  residence  with  one  of  these  tribes.  The 
Colonel  had  no  very  good  feelings  toward  any  person  or 
object  approaching  him  from  a  northerly  direction ;  but  my 
letters  of  introduction  from  distinguished  men  of  his  own 
party  gained  me  a  courteous  hearing  and  a  favorable  reply. 
He  agreed  that  I  should  make  a  home  among  either  of  these 
tribes  with  the  consent  of  the  chiefs  or  Council.  The 
Council  of  the  Wyandotts  was  then  in  session.  I  visited 
them  at  the  Council-House,  obtained  a  hearing  ;  placed  be- 
fore them,  through  their  interpreter,  my  character  and  ob- 
jects ;  told  them  that  I  had  come  "to  do  them  good  and 
not  harm,"  and  asked  the  privilege  of  a  year's  residence 
among  them.  The.  chiefs  held  a  brief  consultation  and 
gave  their  consent.  This  done  I  went  into  their  settlements 
and  hired  for  a  year  a  small  farm  in  the  heart  of  the  tribe, 
with  a  little  brick  house,  orchard,  and  other  accommodations 
rather  superior  to  those  ordinarily  found  in  the  Indian 
country.  The  owner  was  a  blind  Indian  of  the  "Zane" 
stock,  well  known  in  Wyandott  history.  Writings  were 
drawn,  and  all  was  made  sure. 

A  home  bein^Pthus  secured,  I  once  more  set  off  to  join 
the  family.  On  the  second  day,  in  the  morning,  I  met  the 
teams  advancing.  They  were  in  the  midst  of  a  rugged 
country,  the  road  steep,  rough,  and  craggy ;  and  to  my  sur- 
prise I  found  Mrs.  G.  occupying  the  driver's  scat  of  one  of 
the  wagons,  and  guiding  the  team  over  the  difficult  way. 
The  cause  was  soon  explained.  Brother  Griffing,  who  had 
officiated  as  teamster,  had  had,  during  my  absence,  a  violent 
attack  of  disease,  which  had  quite  prostrated  him.  Mrs.  G., 
unwilling  to  remain  longer,  when  the  day  for  starting  ar- 
rived, had  stowed  him  away  comfortably  in  the  rear  of  the 


SINKING  A   BOAT  291 

wagon,  taken  the  lines  herself,  and  \vas  moving  on  safely. 
For  the  rest  of  the  journey  this  duty  devolved  upon  me. 

On  the  evening  of  November  3d  we  encamped  upon  the 
bank  of  Missouri  Eiver  nearly  opposite  Kansas  City ;  on 
the  following  morning  ferried  over  to  the  city  and  took  our 
course  upward.  One  mile  brought  us  to  the  line  of  the 
Territory,  and  half  a  mile  further  to  the  Kaw  or  Kansas 
River,  at  the  Wyandott  Ferry  near  its  mouth.  A  long 
journey  had  been  performed  in  safety.  We  were  now 
within  three  miles  of  our  destination,  little  dreaming  of  the 
exciting  scene  just  before  us. 

The  river  here,  at  its  low  stage,  was  near  two  hundred 
yards  in  width.  The  banks  were  left  mucky  and  soft  by  the 
receding  water,  without  footing  for  man  or  beast,  save  at  the 
immediate  points  of  landing  on  either  side.  The  ferry  was 
managed  by  Indians ;  the  boat  was  a  crazy  flat,  with  a  rope 
stretched  from  bank  to  bank,  by  which  it  was  propelled  and 
guided  with  the  hands.  The  lighter  wagon  was  taken  over 
first  and  safely  landed,  the  family  remaining  on  the  near 
shore.  Next,  the  heavier  wagon  was  drawn  in,  and  to  insure 
the  ascent  of  the  rock  at  the  place  of  landing,  the  team  was 
doubled,  thus  necessarily  increasing  the  weight.  Brother 
Griffing  sat  in  the  wagon,  and  the  other  young  man  and 
myself  took  charge  of  the  horses.  Scarcely  had  we  fairly 
got  into  the  stream  till  we  found  that  the  water  was  gush- 
ing in  upon  us  at  an  alarming  rate.  There  was  no  turning 
back ;  all  hope  was  in  pulling  ahead  witfl^a  vengeance,  and 
that  was  "forlorn."  The  Indians  worked  with  desperation, 
and  we  commenced  to  free  our  horses.  All  were  loosened, 
and  one  or  two  stripped  of  the  harness.  The  boat  sank 
deeper  and  deeper,  the  loose  false-bottom  floated  up,  and 
the  horses  all  went  overboard  into  the  current.  The  Indians 
held  on  vigorously  to  the  rope  till  the  weight  of  the  boat, 
filled  with  water,  compelled  them  to  loosen  the  grasp,  and 
the  crazy  old  craft  floated  away  down  the  current  with  its 
load,  and  Griffing  seated  in  the  front  of  the  wagon,  as  he 
afterward  said,  "alone  in  his  glory."  Early  in  the  struggle 


292  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

I  had  been  knocked  overboard,  an  event  for  which  I  had 
prepared  myself  by  doffing  the  outer  garments ;  and  thus 
fairly  committed  to  the  stream,  I  was  at  liberty  to  play  to 
and  fro  as  occasion  required. 

The  course  of  the  current  providentially  drifted  the  boat 
down  into  shoal  water  near  the  further  side,  where  it  rested, 
the  body  of  the  wagon  being  out  of  water.  The  horses  all 
swam  to  the  further  shore,  and  at  the  brink  mired  down  al- 
most inextricably.  Here  we  were ;  on  one  side  four  large 
horses  almost  hopelessly  sunk,  and  nearly  covered  from 
view,  and  the  bank  so  spongy  as  not  to  admit  an  approach 
by  some  rods ;  in  the  stream  the  boat,  the  wagon,  and 
brother  G. ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  the  family  looking 
anxiously  on.  It  being  Saturday,  a  great  crossing-day,  a 
crowd  of  mingled  whites  and  Indians  began  to  accumulate 
on  each  shore,  unable  to  cross  for  want  of  the  lost  boat, 
and  held  on  by  the  novelty  of  the  scene. 

We  were  not  long  idle.  The  first  effort  was  to  relieve  the 
horses.  The  crowd,  Indians  especially,  came  to  our  aid. 
A  skiff  was  procured,  and  an  approach  was  made  by  water. 
Timber  was  obtained,  and  a  bridge  made  over  the  mud,  so 
as  to  reach  them  from  the  land  side.  Still  it  was  difficult  to 
afford  aid.  The  poor  beasts  struggled,  and  we  labored  for  a 
great  part  of  the  day.  One  horse,  with  some  aid,  made  his 
way  to  terra  firma.  Another  was  helped  back  into  the 
stream,  swam  by  the  side  of  the  skiff  to  the  rock  landing, 
and  was  taken  asTfbre.  Two  got  back  into  the  river,  and 
swam  to  the  opposite  shore,  where  they  mired  down  again, 
and  the  scene  had  to  be  repeated  ;  one  of  them  dragging  me 
in  a  skiff,  while  I  was  vainly  striving  to  lead  him  in  an- 
other direction.  At  length,  when  the  day  was  well-nigh 
spent,  we  succeeded  in  landing  the  last  horse  upon  Wyan- 
dott  soil. 

Another  boat  was  then  obtained  and  thrust  in  between 
our  sunken  craft  and  the  shore,  forming  a  bridge ;  the  load- 
ing all  carried  ashore ;  the  wagon  taken  asunder,  and,  piece 
by  piece,  carried  to  land  ;  put  together  again,  and  reloaded  ; 


HOME  IN  A  "STRANGE  LAND."  293 

the  family  brought  over,  and  taken  in  ;  the  team  reharnessed 
and  hitched  up ;  and  not  an  article  found  wanting,  except  a 
set  of  trace-chains,  afterward  recovered  from  the  bottom  of 
the  boat.  The  places  of  these  were  soon  supplied  by  cords, 
and  we  were  again  in  moving  trim  ;  though  our  horses  were 
in  rather  sorry  plight  from  their  protracted  conflict  with 
Kaw  River  muck.  Almost  that  entire  November  day  was 
spent  by  me  in  the  river,  or  the  mire,  and  nearly  destitute 
of  clothing. 

The  Indians  had  staid  by  us,  and  labored  faithfully  to  the 
last.  At  the  close  of  the  scene  I  proclaimed  that  I  would, 
with  many  thanks,  bestow  a  gold  dollar  upon  every  one  of 
the  company  who  would  receive  it.  Save  the  ferryman  and 
three  or  four  others,  all  present  had  the  magnanimity  to 
refuse  a  remuneration. 

The  family  once  again  seated,  under  the  guidance  of  the 
late  brother  Clark,  a  native  local  preacher  and  interpreter, 
we  were  driven  to  our  hired  home,  which  we  reached  about 
dark  on  Saturday  evening,  November  4,  1854.  Others  had 
gone  in  advance,  and  kindled  a  fire,  around  which  we 
gladly  assembled,  after  a  toilsome  journey  of  five  weeks ; 
thankful  to  a  kind  Providence  for  his  gracious  care,  and 
glad  once  more  to  find  a  home,  temporary  though  it  was, 
and  that  "in  a  strange  land." 


294  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

INDIAN  TRIBES  IN  KANSAS. 

ONCE  more  we  found  ourselves  living  in  the  midst  of  an 
Indian  community.  It  will  be  in  place,  at  this  point,  to 
pause  before  entering  upon  the  scenes  among  the  white  set- 
tlers, and  lay  before  the  reader  some  account  of  the  charac- 
ter and  condition  of  the  Northern  Indians,  among  whom 
our  lot  was  now  cast ;  the  remarks  in  the  former  part  of  this 
volume  being  mainly  confined  to  the  Southern  tribes. 

Commencing  with  Southern  Kansas,  the  first  tribe  of  any 
note  are  the  Osages,  an  indigenous  people,  whose  character 
and  habits  have  been  treated  somewhat  at  large  in  the  pre- 
vious part.  Passing  up  the  military  road  north,  we  enter 
the  lands  of  the  Weas,  Miamis,  Peorias,  Pyankeshaws,  and 
Kaskaskias,  small,  fragmentary  tribes  that  have  been  re- 
moved West  by  the  Government,  and  settled  upon  tracts  of 
limited  extent. 

Next,  on  the  north,  we  reach  the  Shawnees,  numbering 
about  one  thousand,  considerably  advanced  in  improve- 
ments, inhabiting  a  fertile  section  of  country,  having  Kaw 
River  on  the  north,  and  a  rich  and  highly-improved  portion 
of  Missouri  on  the  east.  The  Shawnees  are  an  old  and 
brave  Nation,  and  have  acted  their  part  in  Indian  history. 
They  had  still  among  them  some  men  of  wealth  and  influ- 
ence. A  CAPTAIN  PARKS,  a  half-breed,  since,  I  think,  de- 
ceased, was  long  prominent,  owned  slaves,  had  a  well-im- 
proved farm,  and  in  the  treaty  was  well  provided  for  by 
lands  immediately  upon  the  State  line.  On  moving  West, 
I  bore  to  him  a  letter  of  introduction  from  Hon.  J.  H.  B., 
a  well-known  public  man  in  Indiana,  who  claimed  Parks 
as  a  relative,  and  appealed  to  the  common  Quaker  blood 


SHAWNEES.  295 

coursing  through  their  veins,  and  endeavored  to  arouse  in 
him  a  spirit  of  opposition  to  slavery.  But  Parks  was  too 
deeply  indoctrinated  to  listen  to  "Northern  fanatics."  He 
had  taken  his  lessons  in  civilization  in  another  school.  It 
fell  to  the  ground. 

Among  the  prominent  men  of  the  tribe  were  PASCAL 
FISH,  a  local  preacher  of  our  Church,  and  his  brother 
CHARLES,  who  acted  as  our  interpreter.  These  were  good 
men,  and  remained  firm  in  their  adherence  through  all  the 
persecutions. 

The  influence  of  the  large  mission  establishment  at  the 
Manual-Labor  School  already  described  was  strong.  There 
were  few  to  counteract  or  explain  ;  and  at  the  separation, 
the  main  body  of  our  Shawnee  membership  was  carried, 
nolens  volens,  into  the  Church  South.  They  have  a  large 
meeting-house  and  camp-ground,  and  exert  a  powerful 
influence  over  the  tribe.  Our  membership  is  reduced  to 
about  twenty — a  faithful  band.  The  Baptists,  under  Dr. 
Barker,  had  a  flourishing  Church.  I  know  not  their  present 
condition. 

Crossing  the  Kaw  River  we  enter  the  lands  of  the  Dela- 
wares,  another  distinguished  and  well-known  tribe,  not 
differing  greatly  in  numbers  from  the  Shawnees.  The  traces 
of  their  footsteps  are  scarcely  yet  effaced  in  Central  Indi- 
ana, and  the  echo  of  their  warwhoop  has  but  just  died 
away.  Many  places  bear  their  names,  and  many  reminis- 
cences of  them  are  yet  related  by  the  early  settlers.  Inci- 
dentally I  have  already  referred  to  their  character,  and  to 
the  great  veneration  in  which  they  are  held  by  the  other  In- 
dian tribes. 

The  lands  assigned  them  by  the  Government,  and  of 
which  they  have  been  in  possession  for  a  number  of  years, 
are  regarded  as  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  territory  ceded 
by  the  late  treaties,  and  have  attracted  the  greatest  atten- 
tion. They  have  a  good  front  of  some  thirty  miles  upon 
Missouri  River,  extending  back  up  the  Kaw  River,  with  a 
large  strip  known  as  the  Delaware  Outlet,  reaching  far  in  o 


296  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

the  interior.  The  tribe  is  considerably  advanced  in  agricul- 
ture, though  with  little  literary  culture.  The  Baptists  have 
here  a  flourishing  mission  school,  under  the  care  of  Eldei 
Pratt,  which,  from  some  cause,  fared  rather  better  in  treaty 
arrangements  than  its  neighbor  among  the  Shawnees.  Pos- 
sibly a  key  may  be  found  in  the  sliding -scale  of  Government 
favors  referred  to  in  a  previous  chapter. 

Our  Church  had  a  strong  hold  among  them,  but  they, 
like  the  Shawnees,  were  mainly  carried  South  at  the  separa- 
tion, taking,  in  this  case  also,  the  Church  property.  Still, 
they  hold  not  to  my  knowledge,  a  single  slave  in  the  tribe, 
and  it  was  understood  that  great  offense  was  given,  some 
years  since,  by  the  return  of  one  of  their  old  missionaries, 
formerly  a  pastor  greatly  beloved,  but  who,  at  his  second 
removal  into  the  Nation,  from  a  more  southern  position, 
brought  with  him  a  lot  of  slaves. 

Honorable  mention  should  be  made  of  CHARLES  KETCHAM, 
among  the  leading  men  of  the  Nation,  and  of  the  whole  In- 
dian country.  He  has  long  been  a  preacher  among  us. 
Ketcham  is  a  large,  portly  Indian,  of  manly  appearance  and 
address  ;  illiterate,  but  of  good  intellect  and  fluent  in  speech, 
possessing  a  fine  voice,  and  able  to  make  the  vigorous  in- 
tonations of  the  Delaware  language  ring  with  effect  upon  an 
audience,  even  when  not  understood.  Ketcham  stood  firm 
in  the  division,  though  threatened  with  the  loss  of  his  head ; 
built  a  church  himself,  and  kept  the  little  remnant  of  our 
flock  together.  He  is  an  Indian  in  thought  and  feeling, 
and  may  be  characterized  by  some  Indian  instability,  but 
upon  the  whole  he  deserves  the  respect  of  his  tribe  and 
of  the  Church.  He  is  settled  on  a  good  farm,  maintains 
a  place  in  the  Conference,  and  labors  with  his  people.* 

JOHNNY-CAKE,  whom  I  have  previously  mentioned  as  a 
preacher,  is  a  quiet  and  apparently  pious  Baptist  man,  in 
good  worldly  circumstances,  and  exerting  a  good  influence. 

The  Wyandotts,  though  a  small  remnant,  not  numbering 

*  Since  deceased.— 1863. 


WYANDOTTS.  297 

over  five  hundred  souls,  have  gained  great  prominence  in 
our  Church  history,  from  being  the  first  Northern  tribe 
among  whom  our  missionaries  labored  with  success.  These 
missionary  labors  among  them  are  recorded  in  several  books 
by  the  late  Rev.  J.  B.  Finley,  and  in  one  by  Dr.  Elliott. 
Well  do  I  remember  the  visits  paid  by  the  energetic  Finley, 
then  in  his  early  manhood,  to  my  paternal  home  with  his 
missionary  assistants,  on  their  way  to  and  from  Sandusky, 
then  a  remote  frontier.  And  well,  too,  do  I  remember,  on 
learning  that  I,  in  early  boyhood,  had  endeavored  to  give 
my  heart  to  God,  the  kind,  warm,  fatherly  letter  he  ad- 
dressed me  from  the  mission  station. 

Wyandott  Methodism  early  produced  some  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  Indian  piety  and  thrilling  pulpit  eloquence. 
Mo-non-cue  and  Between-the-logs  were  most  distinguished. 
None  can  read,  without  thrilling  emotion,  Father  Finley 's 
description  of  the  effect  produced  at  a  camp  meeting  near 
Baltimore,  while  one  of  these  sons  of  the  forest  painted 
the  scene  of  the  Cross.  These  passed  away  before  the  re- 
moval West,  and  others  have  followed  since.  They  have 
some  noble  spirits  yet,  but  few  traces  of  their  former  great- 
ness remain. 

On  their  removal  West,  the  Wyandotts  did  not  go  to  the 
lands  which  the  Government  proposed  to  assign  them,  but 
themselves  purchased,  with  their  public  funds,  from  the  Dela- 
wares,  a  wooded  tract  of  very  fertile  land,  finely  undulating 
and  well  watered,  being  the  point  or  delta  above  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Kaw  with  the  Missouri.  The  site  was  eligible 
and  healthy.  There  was  but  little  over  one  township  of 
land  ;  but  this,  with  agricultural  habits  already  in  a  good 
degree  formed,  was  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the  people. 
Here  they  settled,  and  soon  made  considerable  improvements. 

Religious  influence,  and  the  influence  of  our  Church,  was 
stronger  proportionally  among  them  than  any  other  North- 
ern tribe.  At  the  separation  in  1845  an  effort  was  made  to 
bring  them,  too,  under  Southern  control.  But  the  body  of 
the  Church  stood  firm  in  their  integrity,  though  it  caused 


298  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

them  to  endure  "a  great  fight  of  afflictions."  Their  good 
brick  church  building  was  wrested  from  them  and  retained 
in  the  hands  of  a  small  minority  ;  and  they  quietly  retired, 
and  erected  a  log-house  of  worship.  A  missionary  was 
asked  from  the  Ohio  Conference,  and  was  sent. 

The  Indians  on  the  frontier  never  have  been  left  to  man- 
age their  own  affairs.  Designing  and  restless  men,  near  by 
in  the  States,  have  excited  and  corrupted  them,  and  too  often 
the  Government  agents  and  officers  have  lent  their  influence 
to  the  unholy  purpose.  The  results  then  have  been  trum- 
peted abroad  as  expressions  of  Indian  feeling  and  sentiment, 
when,  in  fact,  it  was  only  white  aggression  and  outrage. 

The  history  of  these  transactions  will  be  recollected.  An 
excitement  was  raised  and  the  missionary  expelled.  The 
authorities  at  Washington  censured  the  act  and  removed 
the  Agent,  but  still  the  same  influences  continued  to  prevail. 
The  youth  of  the  tribe,  especially  the  half-breeds,  were  gen- 
erally dissipated,  reckless,  and  easily  led  into  acts  of  outrage 
and  riot.  The  opening  of  the  Kansas  struggle  increased 
the  flame ;  parties  were  arrayed,  disorder  and  lawlessness 
were  excited  by  outsiders  of  rank  and  influence,  unprin- 
cipled and  reckless  half-breeds  were  set  on  ;  at  length,  in 
the  hight  of  the  Kansas  excitement,  both  churches  were 
fired  and  burned  to  the  ground.  Could  the  whole  tale  be 
told,  and  all  the  movements  exposed  that  led  to  this  state 
of  things,  a  tinge  perhaps  might  mantle  the  cheek  of  pro- 
fessed sanctity. 

At  the  time  that  my  residence  among  them  commenced 
they  were  in  a  state  of  comparative  quiet.  The  body  of  the 
tribe  were  kind  and  respectful.  None  were  ever  otherwise, 
except — as  I  had  reason  to  believe — when  they  were  influ- 
enced by  designing  whites  over  the  line.  They  were  good, 
obliging  neighbors.  I  spent  my  intervals  at  home  agree- 
ably, enjoyed  many  interesting  seasons  of  worship  with 
them  and  their  esteemed  missionary,  and  had  personal  in- 
clinations been  suffered  to  prevail,  myself  and  family  would 
probably  have  made  a  permanent  residence  among  them. 


SQUIRE   GRAY-EYES.  299 

They  kindly  translated  what  they  conceived  to  be  the  adjec- 
tive signification  of  my  name  into  their  language,  calling 
me  " Ta-hush-ta "— "Good." 

The  Wyandotts  at  that  time  still  retained  their  own  form 
of  government,  chiefs  and  councilmen  being  elected  by  the 
tribe.  The  Head-Chief  at  that  time  was  Ta-roo-me — if  my 
orthography  is  right — his  English  name  being  John  Hat. 
He  was  rude  and  uncultivated,  but  seemingly  an  honest 
man.  The  second  Chief  was  Matthew  Mud-Eater,  an  illit- 
erate, but  a  mild,  intelligent,  good  Indian.  Others,  how- 
ever, exerted  greater  influence  and  were  more  deserving  of 
notice  than  the  Chiefs. 

SQUIRE  GRAY-EYES,  a  native  preacher,  was  the  model 
man  of  the  tribe.  He  was  one  of  the  early  fruits  of  Finley's 
labors,  and  lived  to  a  good  old  age.  Small  in  stature,  quick 
and  active  in  his  movements,  spirited,  but  mild  and  gentle 
in  his  temper,  scrupulously  neat  in  his  person,  fervent  and 
zealous  in  his  piety,  and  exemplary  in  his  walk,  he  was 
upon  the  whole  one  of  the  noblest  specimens  of  Indian 
character.  There  must  have  been  a  secret  power  and  pathos 
in  his  eloquence,  for  no  white  missionary  ever  could  move 
and  melt  and  sway  the  Wyandotts  as  he  did,  although  he 
had  labored  with  them  a  lifetime.  The  missionaries  under- 
stood this,  and  when  direct  effect  was  intended  they  placed 
him  in  the  front.  Still  he  was  unassuming,  and  seemed 
highly  to  appreciate  and  enjoy  the  labors  of  the  missionaries 
through  the  interpreters,  as  his  flowing  tears  and  animated 
response  "Zham-my"  would  often  testify.  His  wife,  con- 
siderably his  junior,  was  neat  and  pious,  and  his  home 
comfortable.  I  loved  to  visit  him,  though  he  could  con- 
verse but  little.  He  rarely  attempted  English.  The  only 
adventure  of  the  kind  I  now  recollect  was  an  encomium 
upon  Father  Finley,  then  living,  whose  memory  was  held 
in  great  veneration  among  them.  I  was  seated  in  his  cabin 
one  Sabbath  afternoon.  He  had  been  sitting  some  time  in 
silence,  as  if  absorbed  in  reflection.  Suddenly  he  exclaimed, 
"Jim  Finley — good  man — preach — jump  !" 


300  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

He  had  a  joyful  meeting  with  his  spiritual  father  in  Indi- 
anapolis at  the  General  Conference  of  1856.  The  scene  is 
graphically  described  by  Kev.  Mr.  Jobson,  one  of  the  En- 
glish delegates,  in  his  interesting  book  upon  "America  and 
American  Methodism."  A  mistake,  however,  occurs,  but 
one  pardonable  in  an  enthusiastic  foreigner,  who  perhaps  for 
the  first  time  looked  upon  a  son  of  the  forest.  He  speaks 
of  him  as  having  traveled  to  the  seat  of  the  Conference 
"  on  foot,"  "  foot-worn  and  haggard,"  with  "  signs  on  his 
legs  and  clothes  of  his  recent  struggles  over  the  soil  and 
through  the  entangled  brushwood  of  the  forest."  Not  so. 
He  had  traveled  by  steamboat  and  railway,  was  by  arrange- 
ment to  have  accompanied  me,  but  started  in  advance. 
And  as  for  tattered  and  worn  garments,  no  one  probably 
ever  saw  Gray-Eyes  before  the  public  in  any  other  than  neat 
and  becoming  attire,  at  least  to  American  eyes.  But  Finley 
and  Gray-Eyes  have  since  that  gone  to  join  Mo- non-cue, 
Between -the-logs,  Sum-mon-de-wat,  and  John  Armstrong, 
in  the  land  of  the  pure  and  the  blessed. 

GEORGE  W.  CLARKE,  a  local  preacher,  was  my  near  neigh- 
bor. He  was  a  half-breed,  of  good  sense,  gentle  manners, 
consistent  piety,  and  a  caution  that  approached  timidity. 
He  spoke  English  tolerably  well,  and  was  understood  to 
render  English  correctly  into  Wyandott.  He  was  our  stated 
interpreter.  I  have  enjoyed  many  pleasant  opportunities 
of  preaching  through  him.  He  had  a  good  farm  and  com- 
fortable residence  near  where  Quindaro  now  stands.  His 
retiring  habits  diminished  his  influence  in  times  of  excite- 
ment. He  was  selected,  however,  as  one  of  the  last  dele- 
gates to  Washington,  and  subsequently,  in  the  time  of  the 
troubles,  he  was  called  into  service  as  principal  Chief  of  the 
tribe.  It  was,  if  memory  serve,  while  filling  that  position 
that  he  was  called  from  labor  to  reward. 

FRANCIS  HICKS,  another  of  the  early  converts,  had  in 
former  years  been  a  man  of  note.  He  sided  with  the  South- 
ern party,  was  principal  Chief,  and  took  part  in  the  expul- 
sion of  our  missionary,  before  stated.  His  influence  waned, 


BIG-TREE.  301 

and  his  health  gradually  failed.  During  my  residence  in 
the  tribe  he  returned  to  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
and  soon  after  died  in  peace.  He  desired  that  his  daughter 
should  be  educated  at  the  Cincinnati  Female  College,  and. 
at  his  request  I  obtained  for  her  a  place  there. 

BIG-TREE  was  another  fine  specimen,  an  early  convert, 
now  advanced  in  life,  a  licensed  exhorter,  faithful,  consist- 
ent, in  declining  health,  but  always  cheerful  and  buoyant, 
as  well  as  courteous  and  gentlemanly  in  his  demeanor.  A 
sample  of  ready  wit,  coupled  with  gentlemanly  bearing, 
occurred  in  my  own  intercourse  with  him  that  would  not 
have  disgraced  more  polished  society.  Big-Tree  understood 
and  spoke  English  very  imperfectly,  still,  unlike  Gray-Eyes, 
he  would  make  the  venture,  and  with  him  as  with  others  it 
sometimes  led  to  amusing  mistakes. 

He  lived  on  my  way  to  the  church,  and  on  one  Sabbath 
I  took  the  liberty,  after  service,  of  inviting  myself  to  dine 
with  him,  saying  to  him  that  he  need  not  wait,  as  I  was  on 
foot,  but  go  on  and  I  would  follow.  Yielding  a  ready 
assent  to  the  proposal,  he  started,  while  I  in  company  with 
a  friend  followed  on.  Arrived  at  his  cabin,  we  were  politely 
invited  in  by  the  family  and  seated,  but  our  intended  host 
himself  was  not  there.  Time  passed  on  without  explana- 
tion, and  the  family  entertained  us  with  talk,  but  still  he 
did  not  appear.  Wondering  at  this,  and  fearing  that  some- 
thing was  wrong,  I  ventured  to  inquire.  All  was  soon  ex- 
plained. He  had  misunderstood  my  self-invitation  to  dine 
with  him  for  an  invitation  to  himself  to  dine  with  me,  and 
in  that  light  had  accepted  it,  and  forthwith  made  his  way 
to  my  house,  a  mile  distant  from  his  own.  The  family,  on 
my  arrival,  seeing  the  mistake,  had  privately  dispatched  a 
messenger  to  him.  About  the  time  the  explanation  was 
over,  Big-Tree  entered  in  his  usual  bland  way,  and  between 
a  smile  and  a  blush  addressed  me  :  "  Been  to  your  house — 
see  your  wife  and  children — all  well."  This  over,  we  were 
entertained  with  simple  but  real  hospitality.  He  too  has 
since  gone  to  the  society  of  pure  kindred  spirits  above. 


302  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Thus  have  nearly  all  the  first  lights  of  the  Wyandott 
Church  passed  away. 

Other  characters  of  interest  were  found  among  them. 
LITTLE  CHIEF  was  a  mild,  placid  old  man,  an  example  of 
Christian  meekness  and  gentleness  ;  he  was  a  compeer  of 
Gray-Eyes,  and  I  think  still  lives.  JOHN-  SOLOMON  was  a 
fine,  brave  fellow,  a  worthy  Church  member,  of  no  great 
mental  caliber,  but  possessing  great  physical  power,  with 
courage  enough  to  use  it,  when  occasion  required,  in  defense 
of  the  right.  SPLIT-THE-LOGS  was  an  ingenious,  public-spir- 
ited Indian,  erected  a  mill,  and  contributed  his  influence  to 
every  good  object.  He  was  a  firm,  decided,  sensible  man, 
not  a  professor  of  religion,  but  his  strong  antislavery  feel- 
ings led  him  to  take  a  warm  side  with  our  people  in  all  their 
struggles.  K.  M.  ROBETAILLE,  partly  French,  was  a  native 
of  Canada,  where  part  of  the  tribe  once  resided,  and  had  been 
raised  among  white  relatives  in  entire  ignorance  of  his  In- 
dian extraction.  Taking  part  in  one  of  the  insurrections  he 
was  compelled  to  flee  the  country  as  a  rebel,  came  to  Ohio, 
mingled  with  other  relatives,  and  came  to  a  knowledge  of 
his  Indian  relationship,  was  recognized  by  the  tribe,  joined 
them,  emigrated  West,  acquired  a  good  property,  and  served 
as  Secretary  of  the  National  Council.  He  was  inclined  to 
Romanism,  but  was  a  sensible,  kind  man,  a  good  musician, 
and  a  valued  neighbor. 

Specimens  might  be  multiplied  from  personal  knowledge, 
but  I  desire  simply  to  present  enough  among  the  several 
tribes  to  do  justice  to  Indian  character.  I  have  no  sym- 
pathy with  those,  in  any  department,  who  can  see  nothing 
in  Indians  but  degradation  and  vileness,  and  who  heap 
upon  them  only  opprobrious  epithets.  True,  they  are  in  a 
great  degree  unenlightened  ;  they  have  been  victims  at  the 
hands  of  the  whites  to  fraud,  corruption,  and  the  most 
debasing  examples.  Yet  in  my  long  and  extended  inter- 
course, an  intercourse  embracing  almost  every  tribe  upon 
our  Western  frontier,  I  have  found  much  to  admire  in  the 
true,  genuine,  uncorrupted  Indian  character. 


KICKAPOOS — SACS — IOWAS;    ETC.  303 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

OTHER   NORTHERN  TRIBES— TRAITS— INCIDE  NTS. 

PROCEEDING  still  northward,  we  enter  next  the  lands  of 
the  Kickapoos,  whose  line  strikes  the  Missouri  River  imme- 
diately above  Fort  Leavenworth.  The  numbers  of  this 
tribe  are  considerable  ;  their  lands  were  good.  In  character 
and  general  improvements  they  are  a  degree  below  the  tribes 
just  noticed,  have  no  very  prominent  men,  and  have  at- 
tracted less  attention.  Some  missionary  effort  has  beeti  ex- 
pended among  them,  the  results  of  which  are  still  seen  in 
the  piety  of  some  of  the  tribe.  Among  them  the  prophet 
Ken-i-kuk  appeared,  and  run  his  race.  His  vagaries  were 
a  .serious  drawback  to  the  work;  though  it  is  believed  that 
he  afterward  became  a  true  penitent.  A  meeting-house  was 
erected,  which,  in  my  early  wanderings,  once  afforded  me  a 
shelter  for  the  night,  when  shelters  were  scarce.  The  Kick- 
apoo  village  was  finely  situated  on  a  bold  bluff  of  the  Mis- 
souri. 

After  this  came  a  tract  occupied  by  the  Sacs,  and  another 
by  the  lowas.  These  are  small  bands,  but  little  improved. 
The  Old  School  Presbyterians  have  a  prosperous  mission 
among  the  lowas,  with  a  good  farm,  buildings,  and  a  flour- 
ishing school  under  the  superintendence  of  Rev.  Mr.  Irwin. 
These  lands  reached  to  the  mouth  of  Great  Nemaha,  the 
reputed  line  of  Nebraska  Territory. 

Several  tribes  were  in  the  interior.  The  principal  was 
that  of  the  Pottawatamies,  who  had  been  removed  from 
Northern  Indiana  and  Southern  Michigan,  united  with 
another  section  of  the  same  tribe  near  Council  Bluffs,  and 
all  placed  about  one  hundred  miles  up  the  Kaw  River, 
where  they  have  a  square  of  about  thirty  miles,  lying  well 


304  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

on  the  two  sides  of  the  stream.  This  I  have  been  wont  to 
class  among  the  inferior  tribes,  but  they  are,  perhaps,  im- 
proving at  this  time  as  fast  as  any  other  tribe.  Their  inte- 
rior position  is  favorable,  as  it  removes  them  from  the 
exciting  and  corrupting  influences  of  the  frontier.  Refer- 
ence has  already  been  made  to  the  beneficial  effects  of  a 
Catholic  mission  planted  among  them. 

The  Kaws  or  Kansas  Indians  are  an  indigenous  tribe,  of 
rude,  filthy  habits,  and  seemingly  almost  untamable  char- 
acter, the  lowest  class  of  savages  in  the  Territory.  They 
have  thus  far  resisted  all  efforts  of  Church  and  State  for 
their  permanent  improvement.  A  reserve  has  been  assigned 
them  on  the  head- waters  of  the  Neosho,  but  much  of  their 
time  is  spent  in  wandering  over  the  settlements,  begging, 
stealing,  living  upon  entrails,  and  other  tainted  or  refuse 
offals,  to  the  great  disgust  and  annoyance  of  the  settlers. 
Dog  meat  is  held  in  high  estimation  by  the  ruder  Indians, 
and  a  fat  puppy  must  be  well  guarded  till  able  to  take  his 
own  part. 

Near  to  these  is  a  tract  of  land  held  by  the  Sacs  and 
Foxes ;  and  still  east  of  these,  upon  the  Maries  Des  Cygnes, 
and  adjoining  the  fragmentary  tribes  before  mentioned,  is 
the  little  band  of  Ottawas,  among  whom  has  been  a  Baptist 
mission.  About  the  time  of  one  of  my  visits,  the  mission- 
ary, whose  name  has  escaped  me,  died,  and  I  have  not 
learned  that  his  place  has  been  supplied.  Identified  with 
this  tribe,  though  I  think  not  properly  belonging  to  it,  is  a 
prominent  Indian  known  as  Tawa  Jones  ;  educated  at  the 
school  at  the  Great  Crossings  in  Kentucky,  and  noted,  in 
early  life,  for  a  chivalrous  but  unsuccessful  attempt  to  ally 
himself  with  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  Chieftain 
who  superintended;  an  incident  that  caused  "no  small 
stir"  among  the  events  of  that  day.  Jones  I  found  to  be  a 
sedate,  sensible  man,  a  Baptist  preacher,  apparently  pious, 
with  an  intelligent  Eastern  lady  as  his  wife,  living  on  a  fine 
farm,  with  good  buildings,  and  surrounded  by  the  comforts 
of  life.  But  his  antislavery  sentiments  exposed  him  to  vio- 


HALF-BREED   LANDS.  305 

lence  during  the  "dark  years"  that  followed.  He  was  fired 
at,  barely  escaped  with  life,  and  his  fine  residence  was 
burned  to  the  ground. 

The  vast  Territory  of  Nebraska  includes  numerous  tribes 
but  partially  known.  I  shall  now  only  speak  of  those  on 
or  near  the  border,  leaving  the  interior  and  mountain  tribes 
for  the  subsequent  part  of  this  volume. 

The  fortieth  parallel  of  north  latitude  divides  the  Terri- 
tories of  Kansas  and  Nebraska.  This,  upon  actual  survey, 
•was  found  to  strike  the  Missouri  River  a  few  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  Great  Nemaha.  There,  upon  the  bluff,  a 
monument  is  erected. 

Passing  the  Great  Nemaha,  we  enter  the  Half-Breed 
Lands,  a  tract  ten  miles  in  width,  and  extending  to  the  Lit- 
tle Nemaha  north,  a  out  thirty  miles,  set  apart  by  the  Gov- 
ernment for  the  use  of  certain  half-breeds  of  different  tribes. 
Few  of  them  live  upon  it ;  and  since  the  treaty  it  has 
afforded  a  fine  field  for  the  rapacity  of  a  few  Frenchmen 
that  have  taken  Indian  wives,  with  a  set  of  heartless,  nom- 
inal agents.  The  lands  are  among  the  best  in  Nebraska. 
Back  of  these,  about  the  Falls  of  Nemaha,  the  whites  made 
early  settlements. 

Above  the  Little  Nemaha  we  enter  the  country  of  the 
Otoes,  a  large  tract,  extending  north  to  the  Great  Platte. 
By  the  treaty  an  interior  reserve  is  assigned  them,  to  which 
they  have  retired.  These  have  already  been  noticed  in  my 
description  of  Old  Fort  Kearney,  which  occupies  a  central 
point  on  the  Missouri.  This  scope  embraces  what  is  now 
the  best-improved  portion  of  the  Territoiy. 

North  of  the  Platte  were  the  Omahas,  who  held  all  the 
lands  up  to  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Sioux. 
This  people  are  in  a  rude  state,  without  agricultural  habits, 
but  somewhat  in  advance  of  the  Otoes.  Some  rather  prom- 
inent men  have  appeared  among  them,  and  a  few  have  been 
educated.  The  Presbyterian  mission,  at  Bellevue,  has  had 
an  influence  in  improving  and  elevating  the  tribe.  Under 
the  late  treaty,  the  Omahas  have  retired  to  their  reserve  in 

26 


306  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

the  north,  among  the  Black-Bird  Hills.  The  site  of  the 
mission  is  removed  also.  A  large,  costly,  stone  edifice  has 
been  erected,  and  the  mission  school  reopened  under  the 
superintendency  of  Rev.  Dr.  Sturgess,  of  Long  Island,  New 
York.  The  Omahas  live  in  a  village  of  round,  earth-cov- 
ered lodges,  of  conical  form,  and  disposed  in  a  circle  around 
a  large  central  area.  They  have  among  them  a  Govern- 
ment agent  and  farmer;  lands  have  been  inclosed  and 
plowed  for  them,  but  as  yet  their  farming  extends  no  fur- 
ther than  the  cultivation  of  small  patches  by  the  squaws. 
The  whole  Nation,  save  a  few  individuals  that  have  made 
farms,  at  a  stated  season,  abandon  the  village  and  take  their 
annual  hunt.  While  this  practice  continues,  no  tribe  makes 
any  considerable  progress  in  civilization. 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  Omahas  have  an  excellent 
temperance  law,  which  is  said  to  be  enforced  promptly  and 
with  great  effect.  For  every  act  of  intoxication  the  offender 
is  severely  whipped  by  persons  appointed  for  that  purpose. 
An  instance  of  its  enforcement  was  mentioned  to  me  while 
among  them.  A  leading  man,  the  interpreter  of  the  tribe, 
was  known  to  have  been  drunk.  A  party  was  dispatched 
to  his  house  some  miles  from  the  village,  who  took  him  in 
hand  and  executed  the  sentence  of  the  law  without  mercy. 
A  cure  was  effected,  and  the  man  had  not  again  offended. 

In  rear  of  the  two  tribes  last  named,  are  the  Pawnees, 
quite  like  the  Kaws  in  character,  but  much  more  numerous. 
Wanderers,  filthy,  cowardly,  thievish,  their  occasional 
assaults  and  depredations  serve  to  call  out  the  military 
powers  of  the  Nebraska  yeomanry  and  to  open  the  way 
for  an  occasional  dip  into  the  National  treasury.  Other 
interior  tribes  will  have  a  future  notice. 

Some  traits  are  common  to  all  the  Northern  tribes.  One 
is  familiarity.  They  always  greet  you  with  a  smile  and  the 
universal  salutation  of  "howh,"  which  frontier  travelers 
soon  learn  to  reciprocate.  They  are  very  fond  of  shaking 
hands.  In  return,  however,  for  all  these  friendly  demon- 
strations, they  expect  to  receive  some  gratuity  in  the  shape 


INDIAN  TKAITS.  307 

of  food  or  otherwise.     Indians  of  the  wandering  tribes  are 
great  beggars. 

Another  trait  of  fallen  humanity  which,  in  common  with 
their  civilized  brethren,  they  exhibit  in  no  small  degree,  is 
vanity.  An  Indian  of  the  ruder  tribes  loves  to  impress 
you  with  the  belief  that  he  is  a  great  man.  Nearly  all  will 
claim  to  be  Chiefs,  and  many  boast  of  their  visits  to  the 
National  Capital.  "Been  to  Washington  "  is  a  common 
announcement,  and  is  supposed  to  give  claims  to  peculiar 
respect ;  and  one  here  and  there  will  exhibit  a  medal  with 
the  likeness  of  one  of  the  Presidents  as  a  proof  that  he  has 
been  honored  by  his  tribe  with  a  place  in  a  delegation. 

Great  fervor  and  apparent  devotion  characterize  the 
religious  exercises  of  converted  Indians.  Never  do  I  recol- 
lect witnessing  any  thing  rude  or  light,  or  irreverent  in  con- 
nection with  public  worship  from  a  professing  Indian.  At 
times,  though  seldom,  they  were  attended  with  great  out- 
ward emotion.  One  season  of  great  interest  with  them  is 
deeply  printed  in  my  recollection.  The  quarterly  meetings 
for  the  Delaware  and  Wyandott  missions  were  held  altern- 
ately among  the  two  people.  On  this  occasion  it  was 
among  the  Delawares.  There  was  a  large  attendance  and 
quite  a  number  of  visitors  present  from  the  neighboring 
tribes.  In  onr  congregation  were  found  represented  Dela- 
wares, Wyandotts,  Shawnees,  Kickapoos,  and  Stockbridges. 
All  participated  in  the  exercises,  and  erch,  in  his  own 
tongue,  spoke  "the  wonderful  works  of  God."  The  reader 
may  suppose  it  to  have  been  a  medley  of  confusion,  but  to 
us  it  seemed  a  scene  of  perfect  order.  The  Divine  Spirit 
seemed  to  convey  a  deep  meaning  even  when  words  were 
not  understood,  and  the  power  of  God  was  mightily  present. 
Among  us  was  a  Stockbridge  woman,  resident  with  her 
husband  among  the  Delawares,  of  comely  person,  and  in- 
teresting appearance,  excellent  sense,  and  exemplary  piety. 
In  the  course  of  our  exercises  she  was  called  upon  to  lead 
in  prayer.  She  commenced  in  her  own  language,  which 
she  used  for  some  time  with  great  seeming  fervor  and  im- 


308  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

portunity  ;  then,  suddenly  pausing,  she  changed  to  English. 
The  first  utterance  was  "  Glory  !"  Resuming  her  petitions 
in  English,  she  poured  forth  a  strain  of  most  impassioned 
eloquence,  pleading  the  promises  of  God,  and  especially 
that  recorded  by  the  prophet:  "My  word  shall  not  return 
unto  me  void,  but  it  shall  accomplish  that  which  I  please, 
and  it  shall  prosper  in  the  thing  whereto  I  have  sent  it." 
Such  a  scene  I  have  not  witnessed  elsewhere,  among  whites 
or  Indians. 

The  Indian  tribes  generally  pay  great  attention  to  the 
graves  of  their  dead.  Rude  inclosures  are  sometimes  made 
by  planting  poles  in  the  form  of  pickets.  Sometimes  little 
houses  are  erected,  poles  are  planted,  from  which  little  flags 
are  left  waving  in  the  air ;  bottles  or  gourds  are  suspended 
with  coffee  or  other  provisions  for  the  departed,  with  many 
other  simple  demonstrations  of  regard  and  affection. 

During  the  year  preceding  my  removal  to  this  frontier, 
and  preparatory  to  the  passage  of  the  Kansas-Nebraska  act, 
treaties  had  been  made  by  the  United  States  authorities  with 
all  the  tribes  immediately  upon  the  frontier,  except  the 
Wyandotts.  The  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  had 
visited  the  country  in  person,  and  entered  into  negotiations 
that  resulted  in  treaties.  The  main  body  of  these  lands  was 
ceded  to  the  Government  for  a  compensation,  each  tribe 
reserving  a  home  to  which  they  should  retire.  Different 
agreements  were  made  with  the  several  tribes.  In  most 
cases  a  stipulated  price  was  paid  to  the  tribe  per  acre.  A 
few  of  the  treaties  gave  to  the  Indians  the  proceeds  of  the 
sales,  after  deducting  expenses.  The  reserves  of  each  tribe 
were  still  held  by  its  members  in  common,  except  the  Shaw- 
nees,  who  availed  themselves  of  that  opportunity  to  obtain 
a  title  in  severally,  making  a  dividend  of  two  hundred  acres 
per  caput  to  men,  women,  and  children.  A  small  recusant 
band  of  Shawnees  preferred  still  to  retain  possession  in 
common,  and  a  clause  was  inserted  to  meet  their  wishes. 

These  treaty  engagements  were,  so  far  as  I  have  known, 
faithfully  complied  with  by  the  Government,  except  in  the 


MIGHT  AGAINST   EIGHT.  309 

case  of  the  Delawares.  By  the  terms  of  their  treaty  the 
lands  ceded  were  to  be  exposed  to  public  sale,  and  they  were 
to  have  the  proceeds.  Under  this  arrangement,  they  could 
not  be  subject  to  claim  and  pre-emption.  But  much  of  this 
tract  was  very  valuable,  and  eager  eyes  were  soon  fixed  upon 
it.  One  after  another  came  in  and  took  his  claim.  In  vain 
did  the  Attorney-General  decide  against  its  legality,  and  the 
Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  protest.  In  vain  were 
threats  of  military  force  in  their  expulsion.  The  number 
grew  daily,  till  too  large  to  be  controlled.  Miylit  prevailed 
against  rigid.  What  in  an  individual,  or  a  few  persons, 
would  have  been  punished  as  trespass,  when  performed  by 
many,  was  tolerated  and  sanctioned.  The  Government 
made  provision  for  them,  and  the  Delawares  were  compelled 
to  submit.  Still,  as  a  people,  they  are  in  possession  of 
great  wealth. 

As  usual,  many  extraneous  influences  were  brought  to 
bear  in  making  these  treaties.  Personal  and  private  in- 
terests and  feelings  were  consulted,  and  rewards  and 
punishments  meted  out.  But  in  no  particular  was  this  so 
manifest  as  in  the  provision  made  for  the  several  mission 
establishments  within  the  bounds  of  the  ceded  Territories,  by 
which  gross  and  palpable  injustice  was  done  to  faithful  and 
.successful  laborers,  acting  under  the  direction  of  the  largest 
and  most  influential  Churches  of  the  country,  as  well  as  to 
the  tribes,  or  parts  of  tribes,  who  were  tiie  recipients  of 
their  labors  and  desirous  of  their  continuance  ;  and  all  this 
with  an  evident  design  to  establish  slavery.  A  fuller  notice 
of  this  subject  has  been  taken  in  a  previous  chapter. 

The  Wyandotts  owned  no  lands  beyond  their  own  imme- 
diate wants,  and  consequently  made  no  treaty  at  that  time. 
The  following  Winter,  however,  a  delegation  was  sent  to 
Washington  to  effect  an  arrangement  by  which  their  lands, 
till  then  held  in  common,  should  be  apportioned  out  in 
severally.  A  treaty  was  formed  by  which  the  Wyandotts 
ceded  all  their  lands  to  the  Government,  and  the  Govern- 
ment immediately  reconveyed  them  to  the  tribe,  with 


310  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

conditions  and  regulations  for  their  distribution  as  desired. 
The  division  was  made  in  due  time,  allowing  about  forty 
acres  to  each  man,  woman,  and  child.  The  lands  were 
valuable.  The  towns  of  Wyandott  and  Quindaro  have 
since  been  laid  out  upon  this  tract  by  the  white  settlers. 
At  the  same  time  the  funds  held  in  trust  for  them  by  the 
Government  were  distributed  in  like  manner  ;  special  guard- 
ianships being  provided  for  in  cases  of  incompetency. 

By  the  same  treaty  the  Wyandotts  were  admitted  to 
citizenship,  which,  for  the  first  time,  they  exercised  by 
voting  at  Leavenworth  at  the  memorable  election  of  the 
13th  of  March,  1855.  Thus  the  guardianship  of  the  Gov- 
ernment was  taken  off  from  this  tribe,  their  disabilities 
removed,  and  they  left  to  the  common  privileges  and  liabili- 
ties of  other  citizens. 

After  this,  many  of  them  sold  their  lands.  The  whites 
rushed  in  and  occupied  them.  Some  of  the  tribe  went  to 
Canada.  A  portion  joined  the  Senecas  under  an  old  inter- 
tribal agreement,  and  a  part  remain  among  the  white 
settlers,  subject  to  Territorial  jurisdiction.  A  nominal  gov- 
ernment of  their  own  is  still  kept  up,  but  the  tribe  has 
nearly  reached  the  period  of  its  final  disbandment. 

Comparing  the  Northern  tribes  with  the  Southern,  on  our 
frontier,  the  latter  will  be  found  to  be  greatly  in  advance, 
not  only  in  numerical  strength,  but  in  personal  wealth  and 
improvements,  education,  agriculture,  moral  and  religious 
influence,  the  production  of  men  of  talent,  and  in  all  the 
elements  of  civilization. 

These  Territories  were  now  receiving  a  large  immigration. 
Settlers  were  entering,  taking  claims,  erecting  cabins, 
breaking  prairie,  and  preparing  for  future  residence.  Many 
were  from  the  contiguous  States  of  Iowa  and  Missouri. 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin  made  large 
contributions.  The  East  and  North  furnished  their  full 
share,  with  here  and  there  a  Southerner.  Many  were  un- 
married men.  Many  more  had  left  families  behind  and 
were  living  a  bachelor  life.  Some  were  religious  ;  more 


OUR   STAND-POINT.  311 

were  moral  in  their  lives ;  while  a  very  large  proportion 
made  little  pretension  either  to  morals  or  religion,  having 
never  possessed  them,  or  having  left  them  behind. 

Upon  this  vast  field,  thus  heterogeneously  filling  up,  we 
had  entered.  Our  tent  was  pitched,  as  already  seen,  among 
the  Wyandotts,  as  a  point  possessing,  at  that  time,  facili- 
ties for  family  comfort  and  personal  convenience,  in  going 
out  and  in  to  my  work,  above  those  afforded  in  any  of  the 
incipient  white  settlements.  Here,  for  the  second  time  in 
our  itinerancy,  we  had  taken  up  our  abode  among  the  sons 
of  the  forest. 


312  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

DISTRICT  LABORS  — EAELY  SCENES. 

ENTERED  upon  our  new  home,  the  first  thoughts  were 
necessarily  directed  to  arrangements  for  "a  living"  through 
the  Winter.  High  as  prices  were,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to 
lay  in,  at  once,  full  supplies  for  the  season,  that,  while 
absent  from  home,  I  might  be  free  from  apprehensions  of 
domestic  want.  This  was  done  at  costly  rates  ;  and,  before 
I  had  gone  out  upon  my  work,  a  sufficiency  was  provided 
and  mainly  stored  upon  the  premises.  Indian  claimants  in 
several  departments  had  to  be  "bought  out"  to  insure  quiet 
possession,  besides  the  rent  to  our  Wyandott  landlord. 
Other  domestic  and  personal  matters  were  adjusted  ;  dilapi- 
dations repaired,  unseemly  accumulations  removed,  Indian 
arrangements  overhauled  and  remodeled  more  in  accordance 
with  Anglo-Saxon  ideas  of  propriety,  and  a  general  change 
effected  in  the  face  of  things.  Our  site  was  pleasant,  and 
the  prospect  for  a  temporary  home  at  least  endurable.  In 
these  labors  I  necessarily  bore  a  large  part,  and  by  exposure 
on  a  cold  day,  in  a  particular  department  of  unaccustomed 
labor,  my  fingers  were  frozen  on  both  hands,  thereby  lay- 
ing the  foundation  of  much  future  suffering  up  to  this  time, 
and  probably  to  the  close  of  life,  should  my  life  of  ex- 
posure continue. 

In  the  course  of  about  three  weeks  all  was  arranged,  and 
I  set  out  upon  my  regular  work.  No  plan  for  regular  quar- 
terly meetings  had  been  arranged,  the  condition  of  things 
not  admitting  of  such  plan.  Instead  of  this,  the  country 
was  to  be  traveled  over  at  large,  new  points  sought  out  and 
occupied,  and  the  different  charges  visited  and  labored  with 
as  necessity  might  require  and  ability  allow.  My  plan 


FIELD  ENTERED.  313 

was,  as  Bishop  Roberts  once  said  of  his  habits,  "  regularly 
irregular." 

All  my  Winter  traveling  was  performed  on  horseback. 
On  my  first  trip  I  had  a  young  friend  as  a  companion.  My 
first  meeting  was  held  upon  the  Wakarusa,  Sabbath,  No- 
vember 26th.  Here  I  found  brother  Griffing,  who  had  pre- 
ceded me,  and  was  actively  engaged  in  his  work. 

Leaving  this  place,  I  sought  out  the  residence  of  the 
preacher  appointed  to  the  Maries  Des  Cygnes  mission.  He 
had  not  yet  visited  his  charge.  I  proposed  to  accompany 
him  on  the  succeeding  day,  which  he  acceded  to.  Early  in 
the  morning  we  set  off  for  his  field  of  labor,  and  by  noon 
we  found  ourselves  within  its  bounds.  The  next  thing  was 
to  find  a  temporary  foothold  as  a  starting-point  for  our 
work.  Providence  directed  our  way.  Stopping  at  a  cabin 
on  the  Santa  Fe  road,  we  found  a  kind  and  hospitable 
family,  consisting  of  the  man,  his  wife,  and  several  small 
children,  lately  moved  in.  We  were  made  welcome.  After 
the  customary  inquiries  as  to  former  residence,  history,  etc., 
we  approached  the  subject  of  their  religious  state.  Their 
hearts  seemed  moved  ;  they  told  their  tale,  and  wept  as  they 
told  it.  Once  they  had  been  members  of  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Church,  and  trying  to  serve  the  Lord ;  changes  had 
come  over  them,  followed  by  repeated  removals ;  Church 
membership  had  been  forfeited  by  neglect,  and  now  for 
years  they  had  been  out  upon  the  wide  world  destitute  of 
religious  restraints,  supports,  and  comforts.  This,  I  may 
add,  was  in  substance  the  experience  that  I  subsequently 
heard  from  the  lips  of  many.  We  stated  to  them  our  char- 
acter and  objects,  and  it  was  immediately  arranged  that  the 
few  neighbors  should  be  collected  and  we  should  have  relig- 
ious service  that  evening.  The  cabin  was  small,  and  a  con- 
siderable space  was  occupied  by  a  store  of  groceries  and 
provisions,  laid  in  for  the  trade,  but  it  was  supposed  to  be 
sufficient  to  hold  the  few  settlers  by  making  close  quarters. 

In  the  course  of  the  conversation  a  fact  was  elicited  which 
will  shed  some  light  upon  a  particular  feature  found  largely 

27 


314  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

prevalent  in  the  coming  struggle,  one  which  taxed  the  for- 
bearance of  our  brethren  to  its  utmost  tension.  A  few  days 
previous,  the  husband  being  absent,  a  man  had  called  at  the 
cabin,  representing  himself  as  a  Methodist  preacher,  without 
adding  the  peculiar  cognomen  assumed  to  indicate  his  "  dis- 
tinct ecclesiastical  connection."  Without  acquaintance  or 
membership,  in  the  absence  of  the  head  of  the  family,  he  had 
asked  of  the  lady  the  privilege  of  holding  a  quarterly  meet- 
ing at  her  house  at  a  day  indicated  some  weeks  ahead.  Un- 
suspecting, and  desirous  of  religious  privileges,  she  had  con- 
sented, and  the  arrangement  had  been  made  that  he  should 
be  on  hand  at  the  day  appointed,  bringing  with  him  the 
presiding  elder,  thinking  doubtless  to  secure  the  family  and 
preoccupy  the  ground.  Our  friends  at  once  saw  that  they 
had  been  imposed  upon,  but  it  was  now  too  late  to  retract. 
Their  engagement  must  be  complied  with. 

On  hearing  this,  my  plan  was  soon  fixed.  Refreshment 
over,  we  were  all  in  the  saddle,  and,  our  host  in  one  direction 
and  we  in  another,  started  to  collect  a  congregation.  On 
that  occasion  we  proved  unsuccessful,  missed  our  way,  and 
wandered  the  remainder  of  the  day  without  finding  a  single 
settler.  But  our  host  did  better,  gave  the  necessary  notices, 
the  neighbors  gladly  crowded  in,  stowed  themselves  into  the 
little  space,  and  we  had  a  comfortable  season,  while  I  en- 
deavored to  speak  to  them  of  the  "privileges  of  the  sons 
of  God"  from  the  first  three  verses  of  the  third  chapter  of 
John's  first  Epistle.  Then  and  there  I  held  my  first  quar- 
terly meeting  for  the  Maries  Des  Cygnes  mission,  organized 
a  quarterly  conference,  as  far  as  then  practicable,  received 
the  man  and  his  wife  into  the  Church  of  their  early,  only 
choice,  and  established  a  point  from  which  the  missionary 
then  with  me  should  go  in  and  out  as  he  afterward  did. 
Whatever  became  of  the  extra  presiding  elder  and  his  du- 
plicate quarterly  meeting,  I  did  not  learn.  Not  long  after 
husband  and  wife,  the  heads  of  this  kind  family,  both  died, 
and  were  taken,  I  trust,  to  the  heavenly  home,  among  the 
first  garnered  fruit  of  early  missionary  labor  in  Kansas. 


OPENING  OF  KANSAS  TEAGEDY.  315 

This  scene  repeated  again  and  again,  names,  places,  and 
some  details  being  changed,  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  char- 
acter of  our  early  labors. 

Leaving  onr  kind  friends,  I  made  my  way  to  the  town  of 
Lawrence,  which  had  been  laid  off  since  my  first  visit  to  the 
Territory.  Here  I  found  a  few  energetic,  intelligent  Eastern 
settlers,  with  long  beards,  rough  faces,  shaggy  hair,  hard 
hands,  and  all  the  marks  of  a  hardy  and  vigorous  man- 
hood, some  burrowing  in  the  earth,  and  others  in  tents,  or 
sod-houses  covered  with  cloth,  or  with  a  thatch  of  the  long 
prairie-grass,  preparing  to  spend  the  Winter  as  best  they 
might.  Little  is  known  in  the  States  of  the  scenes  encount- 
ered by  these  hardy  adventurers. 

The  day  of  my  first  visit  to  Lawrence  was  memorable,  as 
being  the  time  of  the  first  election  held  in  Kansas  under  the 
Territorial  Government.  Governor  Reeder,  anticipating 
from  the  signs  attempts  to  control  the  election  by  illegal 
and  fraudulent  voting,  had  issued  his  proclamation,  guard- 
ing strictly  the  polls,  and  taking  every  possible  precaution 
against  fraud  and  riot.  But  all  was  disregarded.  Large 
numbers  of  non-residents  poured  into  the  Territory  at  differ- 
ent points,  usurped  the  polls,  and  shaped  the  vote.  Law- 
rence for  this  time  was  left  unmolested. 

Here  an  incident  occurred  that  caused  much  excitement, 
and  in  its  results  gave  me  much  personal  regret.  Here  took 
place  the  first  Kansas  homicide.  I  will  not  say  murder, 
though  it  has  been  called  such.  Here  indeed  opened  the 
great  tragedy  that  for  years  subsequent  has  been  so  sadly 
and  fearfully  acted  out. 

The  reader  may  remember  the  rough,  strong,  kind  Indi- 
anian,  at  whose  cabin  on  Hickory  Point  I  had  preached  my 
first  sermon,  and  whose  hospitalities  I  had  enjoyed  the  pre- 
vious Summer.  I  met  Kibbee  at  the  election.  He  was  a 
sober,  resolute,  fearless  man.  We  shook  hands  cordially 
and  separated.  I  rode  to  Wakarusa  and  spent  the  night. 
On  my  way  I  passed  through  a  large  encampment  of  the 
pseudo-voters  from  Missouri,  who  had  been  to  the  precinct 


316  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

above  Lawrence,  and  were  now  on  their  return  with  the 
usual  demonstrations.  Shortly  after  stopping,  we  learned 
that  a  man  had  been  killed  on  the  road  over  which  we  had 
just  passed,  by  whom  it  was  not  known,  but  supposed  to 

have  been  by  a  man  named .     We  passed  the  night  at 

the  house  of  a  friend,  and  were  intending  to  spend  the  ensu- 
ing day.  During  the  forenoon  Kibbee  entered,  accompa- 
nied by  two  other  men,  all  armed.  The  carrying  of  arms  on 
the  frontier  is  so  common  that  it  excites  no  attention  ;  they 
were  seated,  and  conversation  commenced.  Eeference  was 
soon  made  to  the  late  fatal  occurrence,  and  one  of  our  com- 
pany related  the  circumstance  as  reported,  giving  the  name 
of  the  suspected  person.  Kibbee  listened  in  silence.  The 

statement  over,  he  firmly  responded,   "No;  did  not 

kill  him  ;  Kibbee  killed  him."  We  were  shocked  at  his 
cool  candor.  "What!"  said  one  of  us,  "was  it  you?" 
"Yes,"  he  replied,  "I  did  it — I  killed  him  with  this,"  ex- 
hibiting a  long,  rough,  single-barreled  pistol. 

The  circumstances  were  then  stated  by  himself,  from 
which,  as  I  afterward  learned,  the  testimony  made  no  ma- 
terial deviation.  Some  half  dozen  rude,  boisterous  fellows 
from  Missouri,  who  had  taken  claims  upon  the  Kaw  River, 
a  few  miles  below,  had  been  in  Lawrence  during  the  electrbn 
hours,  in  a  state  of  intoxication  ;  had  taken  the  pro-slavery 
side,  and  spent  the  day  endeavoring  to  get  up  a  quarrel. 
The  citizens,  however,  had  the  good  sense  and  forbearance 
to  disregard  them.  Failing  in  their  object,  they  had  started 
for  their  home  on  foot,  still  keeping  up  their  riotous  and 
insulting  behavior.  Half  an  hour  after  I  had  shaken  hands 
with  Kibbee  he  had  started  for  home  in  a  wagon  with  two 
others.  In  a  little  time  he  passed  the  drunken  company, 
one  of  them  being  in  the  act  of  destroying  a  tent  or  shanty 
by  the  road-side.  Kibbee  spoke  to  him  and  inquired  what 
he  meant.  The  man,  enraged,  flew  at  him  with  a  knife, 
making  furious  passes  at  him  as  he  sat  in  the  wagon,  which 
was  moving  at  a  slow  gate.  Kibbee  warned  him  to  desist, 
saying,  "I'll  shoot  you,  sure."  The  assailant  still  per- 


FIRST  KANSAS  HOMICIDE.  317 

sisted,  and  Kibbee,  finding  all  his  remonstrances  vain,  dis- 
charged his  pistol,  killing  him  on  the  spot. 

After  this  he  had  returned  to  his  home,  passed  the  night, 
and  in  the  morning  started,  with  his  two  comrades,  for 
Lawrence,  intending  to  give  himself  up  to  the  civil  authori- 
ties. But  meeting  one  who  informed  him  of  the  large  en- 
campment on  the  way,  and  fearing  to  fall  into  the  hands  of 
enemies,  he  had  dispatched  a  messenger  to  Lawrence  for  an 
attorney  to  meet  him  at  a  point  where  we  then  were,  and 
advise  him  as  to  his  further  course.  I  advised  him  to  go  to 
the  Governor  and  deliver  himself  up,  but  he  declined,  fear- 
ing that  he  might  be  intercepted  by  the  company  then  pass- 
ing out.  He  declared  his  entire  readiness  to  surrender  him- 
self into  the  hands  of  the  law,  but  vowed  that  he  would 
never  be  taken  alive  by  a  mob.  Dinner  was  served,  of 
which  they  partook  ;  their  horses  were  put  away  ;  additional 
arms  were  obtained  from  one  of  our  company,  and  the  three 
retired  to  a  wooded  ravine  near  by  to  await  the  arrival  of 
the  expected  lawyer. 

After  their  withdrawal  a  consultation  was  held  over  the 
state  of  affairs.  The  occurrence,  we  knew,  must  produce 
excitement,  perhaps  violence.  A  large  body  of  desperate 
men  were  at  hand,  just  ready  to  act.  All  the  elements 
seemed  ripe  for  an  explosion.  Upon  a  little  reflection  I  de- 
termined that  myself  and  young  companion  should  start 
forthwith,  and,  by  riding  through  the  night,  reach  the  quar- 
ters of  Gov.  Reeder,  place  the  facts  before  him,  and  leave 
him  to  take  such  measures  as  he  might  think  necessary  to 
prevent  an  outbreak  and  save  human  life. 

In  a  little  time  we  were  under  way,  expecting  to  encount- 
er the  foreign  crowd  upon  the  road,  and  having  our  plans 
pre-arranged  for  that  contingency.  In  this  we  were  disap- 
pointed. Traveling  to  a  late  hour  of  the  night,  we  found 
the  road  clear.  The  gang  had  been  more  rapid  in  their 
movements  than  we  anticipated,  having,  as  we  were  told, 
passed  on  before  and  evacuated  the  Territory,  whether  with 
or  without  a  knowledge  of  the  rencounter,  I  have  never 


318  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

known.  All  apprehension  of  immediate  difficulty  being 
thus  removed,  we  stopped  with  an  Indian  by  the  wayside, 
and  passed  the  remainder  of  the  night. 

In  the  morning  we  rode  to  "Johnson's  Mission,"  as  the 
Shawnee  establishment  was  then  called,  where  the  Governor 
had  his  temporary  residence.  Arriving,  we  found  a  man  in 
the  act  of  applying  for  a  warrant  for  the  apprehension  of 
the  unknown  murderer.  Without  designating  the  person, 
the  process  could  not  be  issued,  and  he  was  about  returning. 
I  requested  that  he  should  be  called  back ;  took  the  Gov- 
ernor aside  and  stated  to  him  the  facts.  One  of  the  Ter- 
ritorial Judges  was  called,  and  consultation  had.  Return  - 
ing  to  the  office,  I  gave  to  the  proposed  informant  the  real 
name,  whereupon  he  filed  an  affidavit,  a  warrant  was  issued, 
and  Kibbee  arrested.  My  motives  for  having  him  arrested 
were  the  public  peace,  and  his  own  personal  preservation 
from  mob  violence.  We  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  of 
him  again. 

So  ended  my  first  trip  on  the  district,  during  which  I 
had  fared,  personally,  tolerably  well,  but  rny  animal  was 
upon  short  allowance,  and  must  have  suffered,  but  for  the 
grain  which  he  had  transported  upon  his  back,  with  myself 
and  baggage.  Through  much  of  that  year  I  carried  pro- 
visions and  horse-feed  for  emergencies. 

A  single  Sabbath  was  spent  at  home,  and  the  next  week 
found  me  on  my  way  up  the  Missouri,  to  visit  the  work  in 
Northern  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  still  accompanied  by  my 
young  friend.  My  first  quarterly  meeting  upon  this  tour 
was  at  Fort  Leavenworth  mission,  held  at  a  settlement  upon 
Independence  Creek,  a  few  miles  back  from  where  the  town 
of  Atchison  now  stands.  On  the  way  we  crossed  over  to 
Missouri  and  visited  my  old  friend  Rev.  T.  B.  Markham  ;  I 
tried  to  induce  him  to  supply  Fort  Leavenworth  mission. 
He  accompanied  us  to  the  meeting,  but  feeling  aggrieved 
by  his  superannuation  and  supposed  ill  treatment  from 
his  brethren  of  the  Conference,  he  declined  taking  work. 
There  was  no  preacher  on  the  mission  ;  the  family  at  whose 


FAILURE   OF   HORSES.  319 

house  the  meeting  was  to  be  held  were  afflicted,  provisions 
for  man  and  beast  were  scarce  ;  and  as  a  result  our  meeting 
was  short.  We  did  not  literally  starve  out,  but,  to  avoid 
that  catastrophe,  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  leaving 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  Sabbath  and  recrossing  the  river  to 
a  place  of  greater  plenty.  This  brought  us  into  the  neigh- 
borhood where,  the  Summer  before,  the  lynching  process 
had  been  magnanimously  proposed,  but  I  met  no  dem- 
onstration. 

On  Monday  morning  the  journey  northward  was  resumed. 
Our  route  in  the  Territory  had  been  rough  and  fatiguing ; 
my  horse  became  lame,  and,  on  the  second  or  third  day, 
failed.  Availing  myself  of  my  acquaintance  with  Colonel 
Archer,  already  mentioned,  I  obtained  another,  and  left  him. 
In  the  afternoon  of  the  first  day's  travel  the  new  steed  be- 
came sick,  and  seemed  about  to  die.  Now  I  was  among 
strangers  ;  but  I  found  friends  ;  a  farrier  of  note,  in  the 
neighborhood,  was  sent  for,  and,  after  a  time,  appeared, 
book  in  hand,  with  all  the  dignity  of  a  veritable  M.  D.  But 
he  was  too  late.  Nature  had  done  her  own  work  ;  the  patient 
was  convalescing ;  and  he  lost,  for  that  time,  the  oppor- 
tunity of  exhibiting  his  skill.  A  third  horse  was  obtained, 
upon  which,  after  a  laborious  week's  travel,  I  succeeded,  on 
Saturday  afternoon,  in  reaching  the  ferry  opposite  Old  Fort 
Kearney,  alias  Nebraska  City.  But  the  steam  ferry-boat 
was  gone,  and  slender  substitutes  were  left.  The  ice  was 
running  in  large  quantities,  and  the  prospect  gloomy  of 
reaching  my  intended  point  for  the  Sabbath,  though  now  in 
sight.  Ordinary  ferrying  was  suspended.  Finding,  how- 
ever, a  bold,  skillful  man  —  whose  kind  services  I  have 
repeatedly  since  had  in  time  of  need — about  to  cross,  we 
tied  ourselves  on  to  his  fortunes,  entered  the  skiff,  and  made 
our  way  through  the  vast  field  of  floating  ice  to  the  oppo- 
site shore. 

Again  in  Nebraska  City,  I  called  on  my  friend,  Major 
Downs,  who,  meantime,  had  erected  a  large  frame  hotel. 
His  house  was  crowded  to  its  utmost  capacity,  and  tho 


320  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

weather  severe.  He  offered  to  take  me  in,  but  the  prospect 
was  forbidding.  I  inquired  for  the  preacher,  whom  I  un- 
derstood to  be  on  the  ground,  and  was  pointed  to  a  cabin 
on  the  opposite  side  of  Table  Creek,  at  quite  a  distance, 
where  he  was  supposed  to  be  boarding.  Dark  was  about 
setting  in,  when,  leaving  my  young  companion  to  the 
chances  of  the  hotel,  and  taking  my  course,  I  set  out  on 
foot  for  the  place.  The  creek  intervened,  with  a  thicket  of 
timber  and  brushwood,  and  the  cabin  was  lost  from  my 
view.  It  grew  darker  and  darker  as  I  crossed  the  creek  and 
ascended  the  opposite  hill,  till  I  found  myself  entangled  in 
the  brushwood,  and  bewildered  in  my  course.  For  a  time  I 
wandered  and  called,  but  met  no  response.  The  lights  in 
the  city  were  yet  to  be  seen.  Wishing  to  take  an  observa- 
tion while  I  could,  I  drew  out  my  pocket-compass,  lighted 
a  match,  and  took  the  course ;  then  started  again,  traveling 
as  I  could,  and  calling  aloud.  At  length,  through  an  open- 
ing cabin-door,  I  espied  a  light,  and  heard  a  female  voice  in 
response.  Seldom  has  a  gentle  voice  fallen  more  gratefully 
upon  iny  ear.  I  made  way  to  the  place,  and  was  invited  in. 
The  preacher  was  not  there ;  the  husband  was  absent,  and 
the  lady  was  alone  with  her  little  children.  I  told  her  who 
and  what  I  was.  Late  and  dark  as  it  was,  I  accepted  her 
kind  invitation  for  the  night,  was  well  entertained,  and 
formed  an  acquaintance  with  a  wrorthy  Christian  lady.  The 
husband  returned  soon,  and  I  made  the  brushwood  cabin 
my  home  during  my  stay. 

On  the  day  following,  being  the  Sabbath,  Major  D.  ten- 
dered a  room  of  his  hotel  for  public  service,  and  I  occupied 
it  for  preaching.  The  day  was  cold ;  men  kept  within 
doors ;  some  rudely  running  up  and  down  stairs ;  a  group 
of  shivering  Indians  stood  and  looked  curiously  on ;  but 
there  was  a  goodly  number  of  attentive  and  solemn  hearers  ; 
and  I  trust  the  seed  was  not  sown  in  vain.  The  Major 
would  have  me  dine  with  him,  but,  to  secure  the  object,  had 
to  take  me  in  privately  and  seat  me  before  the  rush  of  hungry 
men  in  waiting  was  let  in  ;  for  frontier's-men  are  proverbial 


COLD   HOSPITALITIES.  321 

for  appetite,  and  not  always  very  deferential  to  the  appetites 
or  the  positions  of  others. 

This  was  all  of  the  first  quarterly  meeting  for  Old  Fort 
Kearney  mission.  We  could  do  no  more.  Consultation 
was  had  as  to  the  means  of  prosecuting  the  work  in  this 
growing  field,  and  especially  the  erection  of  a  house  of 
worship  on  the  lots  already  donated.  This  done,  my  fur- 
ther course  was  to  be  determined.  I  had  desired  to  go  as 
far  north  as  Omaha,  there  being,  as  yet,  no  preacher  on  that 
work ;  but  my  means  of  conveyance  had  failed.  I  had, 
then,  three  horses  between  me  and  my  home,  in  what  con- 
dition I  knew  not.  Abandoning,  for  the  present,  my  de- 
sign of  going  further,  I  determined  to  set  my  face  home- 
ward. But  the  ice  still  filled  the  river.  Finding  again  my 
former  adventurous  friend,  I  a  second  time  tacked  myself  to 
his  train,  and  made  the  passage  in  safety  back  to  the  Iowa 
shore.  A  few  hours'  brisk  ride  over  the  wide  bottom  prai- 
rie brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  where  a  day  or  two 
were  spent  with  some  friends  from  Indiana. 

Returning  by  the  same  route,  I  found  my  horses  success- 
ively so  far  restored  as  to  be  able  to  travel.  A  third 
Sabbath  on  the  way  was  spent  in  endeavoring  to  find  an 
entrance  into  Leavenworth  City,  which  was  then  beginning 
to  show  itself  about  two  miles  below  the  Fort.  I  attended 
a  burial,  uninvited  ;  called  on  a  few  families,  and  spent  the 
day  in  an  unsuccessful  effort  to  gain  a  foothold;  but  "the 
time  was  not  yet."  The  night  was  passed  in  "the  hotel," 
lodging  on  the  floor,  tying  my  horse  to  a  stake,  and  paying 
the  moderate  sum  of  two  dollars.  The  night  previous  had 
been  passed  in  the  old  Kickapoo  meeting-house,  with  a 
family  that  had  taken  up  their  abode  there.  They  appeared 
well  disposed  while  we  were  with  them,  but  afterward,  as  I 
learned,  affected  great  indignation  at  having  "entertained" 
abolitionists  "unawares  ;"  though  we  had  concealed  noth- 
ing. Threats  and  ill  words  followed ;  but,  as  in  other 
instances  of  my  history,  they  came  either  too  early  or  too 
late  to  affect  me.  My  suit  of  tar-and-feathers  was  never 


322  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ready  at  the  right  time.  A  quarterly  meeting  among  the 
Delawares,  and  some  labors  among  the  Wyandotts,  wound 
up  my  first  quarter's  labors  upon  the  district. 

Home  was  rendered  the  more  inviting  by  the  straitened 
circumstances  of  the  settlers.  Part  of  the  Winter  was 
severe.  Prairie  winds  blew  piercingly.  Houses  were  small 
and  open.  Frequently  there  was  no  warming  apparatus 
but  a  small  cook-stove.  Often  there  were  two  or  three 
families  in  a  cabin,  with  boarders  and  occasional  guests 
besides.  But  there  were  warm  and  hospitable  hearts,  and 
this  made  all  cheerful. 


EARLY   RECRUITS.  323 


CHAPTER   X. 

DISTRICT    LABORS  — EXPLORING. 

EARLY  in  the  Winter  responses  began  to  be  received  to 
the  public  calls  for  ministerial  aid,  which  we  had  made 
through  the  Church  papers.  These  calls  were  general.  No 
man  was  individually  requested  or  advised  to  come  into  our 
new  and  exposed  work.  All  were  left  to  follow  the  prompt- 
ings of  duty  or  of  inclination.  Our  tables  were  loaded 
with  letters  of  inquiry,  expressing  good  wishes,  and  making 
contingent  and  indefinite  proposals  for  the  future.  But 
these  did  not  fill  the  immediate  and  urgent  demands  of  our 
work.  Occasionally,  however,  one  was  found  whose  first 
proposition  was,  "  Here  am  I ;  send  me."  With  such  our 
work  in  the  Territories  has  been  supplied.  None  have  been 
pressed  into  service. 

In  a  very  large  majority  of  instances  our  supplies  were 
men  of  the  right  stamp,  volunteers,  men  of  energy,  willing 
to  "endure  hardness  as  good  soldiers."  There  were  a  few 
instances  to  the  contrary.  Attempts  were  made  to  foist 
upon  us,  from  the  older  Conferences,  men  who  were  either 
too  indolent  or  incompetent  to  labor  acceptably  where  they 
were ;  but  who,  in  the  judgment  of  good  brethren,  "  would 
do  for  the  frontier."  Such  efforts  were  generally  detected 
before  consummation  ;  or,  if  not,  soon  afterward,  in  which 
case  they  were  disposed  of  in  the  most  summary  way  prac- 
ticable. The  speculating  mania,  that  has  sometimes  seized 
Western  recruits,  or  perhaps  even  prompted  their  transfer, 
has  been  but  little  known  among  the  traveling  preachers  of 
these  Territories.  They  have  been,  for  the  most  part, 
Homines  unius  operis. 

Early  in  the  Winter,   on  my  way  to  Kansas  City  one 


324  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

cold  bleak  day,  I  met  a  man  on  foot  seeking  my  residence. 
I  found  him  to  be  a  brother  from  Missouri  Conference 
coming  to  join  our  little  band.  It  was  REV.  A.  L.  DOWNEY, 
the  first  volunteer  that  came  to  our  aid.  He  was  appointed 
to  Leavenworth  mission,  and  is  still  in  the  ranks.  The 
second  in  order  of  time  who  appeared  among  us,  was  REV. 
ISAAC  F.  COLLINS,  a  transfer  from  the  Arkansas  Conference, 
and  a  man  of  considerable  experience  in  the  work  of  Indian 
missions,  who  was  assigned  to  the  Omaha  City  mission.* 

In  the  Spring  of  that  year,  Kansas  Territory  received  a 
valuable  citizen,  and  the  Church  an  efficient  laborer,  in  the 
person  of  REV.  JOSEPH  DENNISON,  a  graduate  of  Middletown- 
University,  and  a  member  of  New  England  Conference 
from  1843.  About  the  same  time  came  REV.  CHARLES  H. 
LOVEJOY,  for  many  years  a  member  of  one  of  the  Confer- 
ences of  New  England.  The  two  last  named  came  by 
location,  labored  as  supplies  a  portion  of  the  year,  and  at 
the  ensuing  Conference  were  regularly  readmitted.  Brother 
Dennison  had  a  severe  attack  of  disease  immediately  after 
landing  at  Kansas  City.  His  health  is  fully  restored,  and 
he  has  labored  faithfully  in  the  circuit  or  district  work  ever 
since.  His  companion  has  fallen  at  his  side. 

Overtures  for  a  transfer  were  about  this  time  received  from 
REV.  LEVIN  B.  DENNIS,  of  Iowa  Conference,  then  filling  the 
station  at  the  seat  of  Government.  Knowing  the  already 
established  character  of  brother  D.,  not  only  as  a  Christian 
and  minister,  but  as  a  bold  and  unflinching  pioneer,  his 
proposals  were  gladly  met ;  he  was,  at  my  request,  trans- 
ferred at  once,  and  soon  reported  himself  on  the  ground, 
ready  for  work.  I  had,  as  before  stated,  met  him  in  the 
Arkansas  field,  making  his  first  efforts  in  itinerancy.  Now 
he  had  grown  prematurely  gray ;  his  head  like  a  whitened 
shock ;  but  with  a  firm  constitution  and  a  soul  on  fire. 
With  him  was  transferred  his  son,  REV.  BAXTER  C.  DENNIS, 
then  a  youth  on  trial.  The  father  was  associated  with  the 

*  Since  called  to  his  reward. 


OFF  FOR  BLACK  JACK.  325 

preacher  on  Wakarusa  mission,  including  the  town  of 
Lawrence,  and,  being  the  senior,  was  placed  in* charge. 
The  son  was  sent  as  junior  preacher  to  the  Leavenworth 
mission. 

Some  new  fields,  also,  were  laid  off  and  supplied.  Meet- 
ing, providentially,  with  REV.  HIRAM  BDRCH,  a  young  man 
from  Illinois,  who  had,  in  feehle  health,  been  laboring  as  a 
supply  in  Northern  Texas,  I  employed  him  to  take  charge 
of  a  new  field  in  the  northern  extreme  of  Kansas,  known 
as  Wolf  River  mission.  His  health  improved ;  he  was 
received  into  the  Conference  the  ensuing  session,  appointed 
to  Nebraska,  and  has  ever  proved  a  faithful  and  efficient 
minister.  Upon  a  steamboat  in  Missouri  River,  I  met  with 
a  young  Englishman  with  credentials  and  apparent  qualifi- 
cations for  the  work,  and  employed  him  to  travel  between 
the  Nemahas,  and  organize  the  Nemaha  mission.  This  was 
REV.  DAVID  HART.  A  preacher,  transferred  from  Indiana 
Conference,  was  sent  to  supply  Fort  Scott  and  surrounding 
country. 

Thus,  in  the  course  of  the  year,  our  entire  work  was 
manned.  The  order  of  time  has  been  anticipated  in  this 
statement,  for  the  purpose  of  presenting  all  the  names  at 
one  view.  My  Wyandott  home  became  a  place  of  resort, 
and  an  outfitting  point  for  preachers  coming  into  the  Ter- 
ritories ;  a  circumstance  which  probably  had  much  to  do  in 
fixing  the  jealousy  and  inveterate  hate  of  pro-slavery  senti- 
nels, secular  and  ecclesiastical,  posted  along  the  border. 

Meanwhile  another  round  upon  the  district  was  in  pro- 
gress. Commencing  again  with  Maries  Des  Cygnes  mission, 
I  set  off  for  the  appointed  place  on  Black  Jack,  afterward 
famous  as  the  retreat  of  John  Brown  and  his  party  during 
their  celebrated  campaign.  My  way  led  me  via  Wakarnsa. 
Failing  to  find  there  a  certain  local  brother  who  was  to  have 
accompanied  me,  I  continued  the  trip  alone.  The  direct 
road  led  me  to  the  residence  of  Kibbee,  already  spoken  of, 
at  Hickory  Point.  Kibbee,  as  before  stated,  had  been 
arrested  on  my  information.  A  preliminary  examination 


326  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

had  been  held  before  one  of  the  judges,  bail  had  been 
refused,  and  he  had  been  committed  to  the  guard-house 
at  Fort  Leavenworth.  This,  however  unjust,  was  fortunate 
for  the  accused,  as  it  probably  saved  his  life  from  a  mob. 
On  a  subsequent  investigation,  before  another  of  the  judges, 
he  was  let  to  bail,  and  had  returned  to  his  home  and  family. 
Not  knowing  what  feelings  he  might  entertain  toward  me 
for  having  him  arrested,  I  had  no  relish  for  an  interview, 
and  sought  to  take  a  by-way  that  would  avoid  his  residence  ; 
but  his  cabin  was  a  concentrating  point  in  those  days,  and, 
despite  my  efforts  to  the  contrary,  my  trail  would  lead  me 
there.  Ere  I  was  aware,  emerging  from  the  grove,  I  was 
on  the  broad  prairie  in  full  view  of  the  house. 

What  was  my  surprise  to  find  the  cabin  filled  and  sur- 
rounded by  armed  men,  discharging  and  reloading  their 
pieces,  and  evidently  making  ready  for  a  rencounter,  either 
of  attack  or  defense.  I  was  seen  ;  it  was  too  late  to  retreat. 
I  advanced  to  the  cabin,  wondering  what  the  demonstration 
might  mean.  All  was  soon  explained.  A  man  near  by 
had  been  assaulted  in  the  woods,  brought  to  the  ground, 
and  nearly  killed.  While  the  perpetrator  was  yet  standing 
over  his  prostrate  victim,  Kibbee  had  come  up  and  inter- 
fered. To  escape  detection  himself,  the  villain  had  charged 
Kibbee — already  under  bail — with  the  deed,  and  had  a 
warrant  issued  for  him.  Process  was  also  issued  for  the 
real  criminal.  Both  were  in  the  hands  of  officers  from 
Lawrence,  and  they  were  then  in  the  pursuit.  Kibbee's 
friends  had  come  together  to  defend  him,  if  need  required. 
All  were  sober  and  orderly,  but  determined  and  resolute. 

Taking  Kibbee  aside,  I  explained  to  him  my  motives  for 
his  arrest.  He  expressed  entire  satisfaction,  treated  me 
cordially,  apologized  for  not  entertaining  me  through  the 
night,  under  the  circumstances,  and  introduced  me  to  a 
neighboring  settler  with  whom  I  might  lodge.  I  was  kindly 
entertained,  and,  in  the  morning,  I  learned  that  the  trick  had 
been  detected,  the  proper  person  arrested,  and,  greatly  to  his 
mortification,  brought  to  Kibbee's  house  and  there  guarded 


BLACK   JACK   QUARTERLY  MEETING.  327 

through  the  night.  But  Kibbee  was  kept  in  perpetual 
alarms.  Once  he  came  near  firing  upon  a  small  party  of 
men  that  unwittingly  came  to  his  house,  in  such  a  way  as 
to  excite  his  suspicion  of  a  mob,  but  who  really  had  no  such 
designs.  Weary  and  harassed  with  perpetual  apprehen- 
sions for  his  life,  and  doubtful  as  to  obtaining  a  fair  trial, 
he  indemnified  his  bail,  fled  the  country  with  his  family, 
forfeited  his  recognizance,  and  I  have  not  heard  of  him 
since.  So  closed  the  first  scene  of  the  opening  Kansas 
tragedy.  Hickory  Point,  and  the  surrounding  localities, 
witnessed  many  subsequent  scenes  of  violence  and  blood- 
shed. 

With  the  aid  of  my  kind  host,  who  accompanied  me, 
I  succeeded,  in  the  forenoon  of  the  next  day,  in  finding  the 
spot  where  the  quarterly  meeting  was  to  be  held.  It  was 
the  cabin  of  one  of  the  sons  of  my  old  Indiana  friend, 
"Uncle  Billy  Moore,"  already  sketched  in  a  previous  chap- 
ter. The  boys  were  settled  around ;  all  sober,  orderly, 
pious,  but  well-trained  regulars  in  the  free-state  ranks. 
One  of  them  afterward  served  under  John  Brown  in  the 
desperate  battle  of  Black  Jack,  resulting  in  the  capture 
of  a  force  largely  superior,  and  the  rescue  of  the  father  and 
other  prisoners  from  death.  The  sire  and  sons,  with  their 
wives  and  children,  and  the  few  neighbors,  composed  the 
congregation.  We  had  a  good  time  together  in  worship 
and  Christian  society.  I  had  the  happiness  to  receive  my 
accompanying  friend  into  the  Church.  His  family  followed 
his  example  ;  his  house  became  a  preaching-place  and  a 
home  for  preachers. 

Leaving  these  parts  I  entered  the  bounds  of  Wakarusa 
mission,  where  it  had  been  concerted  that  I  should  make  a 
week's  excursion  with  Rev.  J.  S.  Griffing,  who  was  always 
ready  for  that  kind  of  work.  Taking  the  great  Santa  Fe 
road,  we  traveled  out  into  the  neighborhood  of  Council 
City,  stopping  upon  a  stream  known  as  the  Hundred  and 
Ten,  a  place  subsequently  notorious  for  its  ability,  with  a 
small  population,  to  poll  a  heavy  vote.  The  post  became  a 


328  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

prominent  one  in  early  Kansas  history,  and  its  proprietor 
acquired  quite  a  name  among  its  first  actors.  He  had  some 
means  ;  had  a  large  number  of  men  in  his  employ,  and  his 
improvements  were  in  advance  of  most  others  of  that  day. 
Making  virtue  of  necessity,  we  determined  to  pass  the 
night  with  him  incog.  We  found  good  "border  ruffian" 
quarters,  and,  for  our  money,  were  well  treated.  We  were 
directed  first  to  a  separate  cabin,  where  we  found  a  comfort- 
able fire,  a  large  stock  of  arms,  and  an  imposing  array  of 
well-filled  bottles,  with  a  carte  blanche  liberty  in  the  use  of 
their  contents.  A  good  Kentucky  supper  was  dispatched 
in  one  of  the  neat  family  cabins,  whose  female  inmates 
seemed  to  deserve  a  better  association  ;  after  which  we  re- 
turned to  our  reception-room.  Conversation  took  a  very 
free  range,  and  we  were  able,  unsuspected,  to  note  many 
items  of  interest. 

An  incident  was  related  of  a  man  being  eaten  by  the 
wolves  shortly  before,  as  he  returned  home  from  this  place, 
intoxicated,  one  cold  night.  Great  indignation  was  ex- 
pressed at  the  lupine  monsters  that  had  savagely  devoured 
him,  and  vengeance  sworn  against  the  race,  but  no  word  of 
disapprobation  of  the  hyenas  that  had  furnished  the  liquor 
which  prepared  him  to  be  their  victim.  At  a  suitable 
hour  we  were  invited  to  comfortable  lodgings,  while  the 
company  entered  upon  the  games  and  revelry  of  the  night. 
Weary  and  worn  we  slept  soundly  till  the  scene  closed, 
were  awaked  only  by  the  retirement  of  worn-out  gamesters, 
then  slept  again  till  dawn.  Breakfast  over,  we  paid  our 
bill,  and  left  our  host  and  his  band,  little  suspecting  that 
he  had  "entertained unawares." 

We  laid  our  course  for  the  head-waters  of  the  Wakarusa, 
passing  the  grave  of  the  wolf-devoured  man,  making  or 
finding  no  stopping-place  till  we  arrived  at  the  site  of  tho 
old  Catholic  mission,  then  abandoned  and  occupied  by  set- 
tlers, since  succeeded,  I  think,  by  the  town  of  Brownsville. 
Here  we  found  friends,  had  an  appointment  circulated,  and 
I  endeavored  to  preach  the  Word  to  a  few  "  sheep  in  tho 


TOPEKA  IN  EARLY  TIMES.  329 

wilderness."  On  the  succeeding  day  we  traveled  through  the 
Pottawatamie  Reserve,  passing  the  residence  of  the  lordly 
old  polygamist  Chief,  and  toward  evening  took  up  at  the 
newly-laid-off  town  of  Topeka,  since  famous  for  free-state 
Constitutions,  Conventions,  and  Legislatures,  then  consist- 
ing of  a  solitary  frame  shanty  occupied  as  a  hotel,  with 
a  cabin  dormitory  hard  by,  and  a  few  claim  structures  in 
the  suburbs.  In  this  vicinity,  brother  G.  had,  a  short  time 
before,  out  of  his  scanty  allowance,  paid  one  dollar  for 
"a  short-cake  and  half  a  dozen  ears  of  corn." 

At  Topeka  we  found  a  company  of  intelligent,  enterpris- 
ing men,  mostly  at  that  time  from  Pennsylvania,  full  of 
hope  as  to  their  town  ;  laboring  hard,  and  living  on  rough 
fare.  We  were  kindly  received,  found  a  place  to  stake  out 
our  animals,  and  a  little  prairie  hay  to  place  before  them. 
Our  plain  evening  repast  over,  the  men  assembled  in  the 
cabin  room,  and  I  endeavored  to  present,  for  their  accept- 
ance, the  Gospel  "treasure"  from  2  Cor.  iv,  7.  They  were 
willing  hearers,  and  enlivened  the  exercises  by  excellent 
singing  from  a  well-trained  choir.  At  bedtime  I  found  that 
I  was  to  be  exempted  from  a  lot  in  the  crowded,  floorless, 
common  dormitory,  and  honored  with  a  superior  posi- 
tion in  the  main  building.  Ascending  by  the  aid  of  a 
ladder  to  a  high  bunk,  I  stowed  myself  away,  and  slept 
securely.  The  main  article  of  diet  for  our  evening  and 
morning  meal  was  "  hasty  pudding,"  or,  in  Western  par- 
lance, "corn-mush,"  without  any  of  the  accompaniments 
usually  considered  appropriate.  But  our  hosts  were  kind 
and  generous,  and  our  appetite  good  ;  we  ate  freely,  and  I 
trust  with  grateful  hearts.  Three  years  afterward  the  session 
of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  Conference  was  held  in  this  place. 

Our  practice  was  to  converse  as  far  as  practicable  with 
all,  seek  out  Church  members,  encourage  them,  and,  where 
practicable,  form  them  into  classes,  leaving  appointments 
for  regular  preaching.  Often  we  had  affecting  scenes,  when 
first  meeting  with  those  who  had  long  been  shut  out  from 

the  privileges  of  the  Gospel. 

28 


330  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

Passing  through  Tecumseh,  and  visiting  Christian  fam- 
ilies on  the  way,  we  stopped  at  the  cabin  of  a  German 
Methodist,  from  near  Brookville,  Indiana.  Meeting  was 
agreed  upon  for  the  evening,  and  brother  Griffing  set  out 
at  a  rapid  gait  upon  his  pony  to  notify  the  settlers.  Taunts 
had  been  thrown  out  in  this  neighborhood,  our  preten- 
sions to  influence  had  been  ridiculed  by  those  in  a  different 
interest,  but  the  evening  brought  a  goodly  number  of 
quiet  and  willing  hearers.  I  addressed  them  from  Mark 
xvi,  15,  and  organized  a  society  of  nine  members  ;  others 
having  attempted  an  organization  of  a  different  character 
and  failed. 

From  this  place  we  went  to  Lawrence,  where  we  held  the 
second  quarterly  meeting  for  Wakarusa  mission.  Our  place 
of  service  was  the  hotel,  a  long  sod-building,  thatched  with 
prairie-grass,  the  one  great  room  serving  as  dining-room, 
parlor,  and  dormitory,  a  table  with  bench-seats  reaching 
from  end  to  end,  and  a  line  of  double  bunks  stretching  the 
same  length,  with  sleeping  accommodations.  Here  also  we 
organized  a  society  with  respectable  numbers  and  fair 
prospects. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  Sabbath  I  attended  the  funeral  of 
one  of  the  prominent  citizens,  and  saw  his  remains  slowly 
borne  away  up  the  winding  ascent  to  their  long  resting- 
place  in  the  mound  cemetery.  The  early  deaths  of  newly- 
arrived  settlers  are  peculiarly  affecting,  cutting  short  all 
their  fond  plans  and  expectations,  and  leaving  often  a  grief- 
stricken  companion  and  helpless  little  ones  in  a  rude,  wild 
scene,  far  from  home  and  friends.  Yet  this  was  the  fate  of 
not  a  few. 

Brother  G.  was  faithful  and  diligent  for  two  years  upon 
the  Wakarusa  work,  encountered  many  hardships,  and  near 
the  close  of  the  second  year  was  prostrated  for  months  by 
severe  illness.  About  the  same  time  his  faithful  pony  was 
lost,  probably  stolen,  but  his  Indianapolis  friends,  on  hear- 
ing his  misfortune,  generously  made  up  an  amount  sufficient 
to  buy  another,  and  sent  it  to  him  by  my  hand. 


SUFFERING  FROM  A  FELON.        331 

During  this  entire  trip,  and  indeed  much  of  the  Winter, 
I  traveled  and  preached  with  my  arm  in  a  sling,  suffering 
intensely  from  a  felon  on  the  left  hand,  aggravated  by  expo- 
sure to  cold,  from  the  effects  of  which  the  hand  has  never 
fully  recovered. 


332  OUTPOSTS  OF  zioff. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

DISTRICT  LABORS  — MEN  OF   THE   TERRITORIES. 

HAVING  rested  a  little  season  at  home,  I  set  out  early  in 
March  upon  the  northern  portion  of  the  work,  the  preacher 
assigned  to  Omaha  City  having  arrived  and  accompanying 
me.  I  was  now  mounted  upon  an  Indian  pony,  painful  for 
me  to  ride,  but  fully  competent,  it  was  supposed,  for  the 
fatigue  and  starvation  of  the  trip. 

On  this  tour,  for  the  first  time,  I  found  an  open  door  in 
Leavenworth,  and  entered  it  by  preaching  in  the  bar-room 
of  the  hotel,  on  Saturday  evening,  from  "The  time  is 
short."  1  Cor.  vii,  29.  Another  presiding  elder  had  pre- 
ceded me  but  the  evening  before  in  the  same  place,  and  in 
stating  his  office  and  mission  had  particularly  emphasized 
the  word  "  South."  This  was  manly.  In  making  myself 
known  with  equal  publicity,  I  pronounced  with  equal  em- 
phasis, "The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  without  any 
increase  or  diminution  to  its  name  or  character."  So  our 
stakes  were  fully  set,  and  standards  mutually  reared  in  Leav- 
enworth. Our  quarterly  meeting  services  were  continued  on 
the  Sabbath. 

Crossing  the  Missouri  River  at  Westou,  we  traveled  up 
on  the  opposite  side,  and  recrossed  at  Nebraska  City.  Con- 
siderable part  of  the  way  we  had  the  company  of  a  Mormon 
elder,  a  large,  rough,  sensual-looking  man,  of  considerable 
general  intelligence.  He  was  traveling  through  the  country, 
making  arrangements  for  a  large  party  of  Spring  emigrants 
to  Salt  Lake.  We  found  him  communicative  and  generally 
ready  to  give  a  plain  answer  to  our  most  pointed  questions. 
He  did  not  hesitate  to  avow  the  most  shocking  and  impious 


FIRST  NEBRASKA  LEGISLATURE.  333 

features  of  their  system  of  doctrine  and  morals,  but  affected 
to  throw  over  all  the  guise  of  sanctity. 

Beaching  Nebraska  City,  we  found  that  the  preacher  in 
charge  had  already  gone  forward  to  the  place  of  the  quar- 
terly meeting  which  was  to  be  held  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  mission,  near  the  Great  Platte.  Fearing  to  lose  our 
way  and  be  too  late,  I  hired  a  guide  who,  for  a  compensa- 
tion, mounted  a  horse  and  piloted  us  through,  arriving  just 
in  time  to  participate  in  the  first  services,  already  begun  by 
the  preacher.  Our  meeting  was  held  at  the  cabin  of  a 
brother  Morris,  a  venerable  old  pioneer,  since  removed  to 
California.  I  preached  on  Sabbath  from*  Isaiah  liii,  1. 
We  had  a  good  meeting,  and  formed  interesting  acquaint- 
ances. 

Leaving  early  in  the  week,  we  pursued  our  course  through 
stormy  weather  to  Omaha,  crossing  and  recrossing  the  Mis- 
souri to  avoid  the  Great  Platte.  Omaha  had  been  fixed  as 
the  capital  of  Nebraska  Territory,  and  the  Territorial  Leg- 
islature was  now  holding  its  first  session.  This  was  a  sin- 
gularly-constituted body.  The  Territory  had  been  laid  off 
into  counties,  and  an  apportionment  of  Representatives 
made  by  the  Acting  Governor.  Some  counties  nominally 
represented  were  said  not  to  have  half  a  dozen  settlers,  and 
one  or  two,  I  think,  not  a  single  white  inhabitant.  The 
process  was  for  a  few  men  to  go  out  just  far  enough  to 
fancy  themselves  within  the  bounds  of  the  county  to  be 
represented,  open  the  polls,  cast  their  ballots,  elect  one  of 
their  number,  make  out  returns,  certify  them,  and  place  him 
in  the  seat.  A  large  number  of  the  members  were  not  even 
residents  of  the  Territory,  and  never  became  such.  My 
neighboring  village  of  Glenwood,  Iowa,  furnished,  I  be- 
lieve, four  or  five,  and  among  them  the  President  of  the 
Council.  They  were  a  body  of  respectable  appearance  and 
good  business  capacity. 

The  first  executive  officer  appointed  for  Nebraska  Terri- 
tory was  GOVERNOR  BURT,  from  South  Carolina.  He  died 
soon  after  arriving  in  the  Territory,  and  the  office  devolved 


334  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

upon  HON.  T.  B.  CUMING,  the  Secretary,  by  whom  the 
organization  was  made  and  the  Legislature  convened.  A 
newly-appointed  Executive  had  just  arrived  in  the  person 
of  GOVERNOR  IZZARD,  from  Arkansas,  an  ex-Baptist  preacher, 
an  old  State  politician,  of  fine  personal  appearance,  court- 
eous manners,  and  agreeable  social  habits,  who  for  years  re- 
mained in  office.  The  old  Governor  was,  withal,  extremely 
sensitive  on  one  point ;  he  was  a  decided  Union-saver,  and 
quite  unwilling  that  the  slavery  question  should  be  agitated 
under  his  administration.  Of  this  I  soon  had  proof. 

Our  preaching  was  held  in  the  State-House.  We  had  a 
good  attendance  of  willing  listeners,  and  among  them  tho 
Governor.  In  the  course  of  my  sermon  I  incidentally 
referred,  among  other  signs  of  the  times,  to  the  project, 
just  then  beginning  to  be  whispered  in  certain  quarters,  for 
the  revival  of  the  African  slave-trade,  characterizing  it,  as 
was  my  wont,  with  no  very  gentle  epithets.  The  follow- 
ing morning  I  was  introduced  to  his  Excellency,  who  forth- 
with invited  me  aside  for  a  private  interview,  and,  in  his 
ecclesiastico-political  character,  tendered  a  word  of  personal 
advice  as  to  the  propriety  of  refraining  from  exciting  topics. 
The  details  I  need  not  give.  Suffice  it  that  my  claims  of 
pulpit  rights  and  duties  did  not  fully  accord  with  his  admis- 
sions. Nor  would  he  allow  that  the  incipient  Southern 
movement  referred  to  was  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  de- 
mand serious  attention,  while  I  held  the  contrary.  Still  we 
parted  kindly.  As  the  time  of  our  next  quarterly  visit  ap- 
proached, a  friend  mentioned  to  the  Governor  that  I  was 
expected.  "Ah!"  said  he,  "I  am  afraid  he  will  bring 
with  him  seven  other  devils  worse  than  the  first."  Still  I 
found  him  a  regular  and  orderly  hearer,  and,  bating  a  few 
slight  skirmishes,  our  relations  were  agreeable  to  the  expi- 
ration of  his  time. 

Some  time  elapsed  before  any  permanent  Church  organi- 
zation was  effected  in  Omaha.  Rev.  Wm.  D.  Gage,  of  the 
Old  Fort  Kearney  mission,  was  the  first  chaplain  elected  to 
the  Legislature. 


KANSAS   E-LECTION   OF    1855.  335 

A  journey  home  followed,  breaking  my  road,  much  of 
the  way,  through  deep  snow ;  then  a  little  season  of  respite, 
during  which  occurred  the  memorable  election  of  the  30th 
of  March,  1855.  The  Territory  was  overrun  by  non-resi- 
dents, the  polls  usurped,  and  many  scenes  of  riot  and  vio- 
lence transpired.  I  arrived  at  Leavenvvorth,  our  voting- 
place,  some  thirty  miles  distant  from  my  residence,  early 
upon  election -day,  and  found  some  eight  hundred  non-resi- 
dent voters  upon  the  ground,  mostly  under  arms.  Threats 
had  been  made,  accompanied,  it  was  said,  by  preparations 
for  violence  during  the  night  preceding.  The  free-state 
men  were  in  a  hopeless  minority,  greatly  intimidated.  One 
of  them,  a  lawyer,  took  me  by  the  arm,  and  tremblingly 
related  the  doings  of  the  past  night.  They  had  determined 
to  suppress  their  ticket,  and  abandon  the  field.  Unwilling 
to  lose  our  votes  after  so  long  a  travel,  I,  with  difficulty, 
obtained  the  names  of  the  free-state  nominees,  and  wrote 
out  a  supply  of  tickets  for  our  company.  My  Wyandott 
friends  desired  me  to  lead  them  on.  A  struggle  of  half  an 
hour  was  required  to  force  my  way  through  the  crowd  to 
the  polls,  and  my  vote  was  given.  Close  behind  me  was 
the  persevering  Split-the-logs,  who  deposited  the  first  Wy- 
andott ballot  under  the  new  treaty.  The  crowd  continued 
to  occupy  the  polls  for  some  hours.  At  length,  finding  that 
the  free-state  party  had  retired  from  the  field,  their  oppo- 
nents affected  great  magnanimity,  inviting  the  few  still 
remaining  up  to  the  polls.  But  few  free-state  votes  were 
polled,  and  among  them  were  some  fifteen  Wyandotts  of 
our  company.  On  our  way  home  we  were  notified  by  a 
drunken  Wyandott,  who  seemed  to  be  a  spokesman  for 
the  ruffian  gang,  that  we  were  to  be  put  out  of  the  Nation 
in  three  days  ;  but  threats  were  now  becoming  familiar. 

Early  in  April  I  started  East  to  attend  the  sitting  of  the 
Western  Book  Committee.  While  in  Cincinnati,  informa- 
tion reached  us  of  the  acting  of  another  scene  in  the  Mis- 
souri-Kansas tragedy.  The  printing-office  of  Mr.  Park,  of 
Parkville,  Missouri,  just  opposite  the  Wyandott  lands,  had 


336  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

been  assaulted.  He  was  proprietor  of  the  place,  an  old, 
wealthy,  and  respectable  citizen,  interested  in  Kansas,  and 
understood  to  hold  sentiments  favorable  to  freedom  in  the 
Territory.  His  press  had  been  thrown  into  the  river,  and 
himself  compelled  to  flee  under  threats  of  personal  violence. 
This  was  within  a  few  miles  of  my  residence.  About  this 
time,  also,  the  famous  "Platte  County  Resolutions"  were 
passed  against  preachers  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 
The  storm  was  gathering,  but  I  was  kept  in  peace. 

The  comfort  of  our  stay  among  the  Wyandotts  was 
greatly  enhanced  by  the  society  and  kind  offices  of  Rev. 
John  H.  Dennis  and  his  amiable  family.  He  resided  in  the 
Nation  by  right,  and  I  by  courtesy.  He  lived  on  the  mis- 
sion farm,  secured  by  treaty  provision,  and  I  in  "my  own 
hired  house,"  about  a  mile  distant,  there  being  no  provision 
for  presiding  elders.  His  health  improved  somewhat,  and 
he  undertook,  in  my  absence,  the  superintendence  of  both 
farms,  greatly  to  my  relief.  The  earth  produced  plentifully, 
and  our  dearth  gave  way  to  abundant  supplies  of  all  things 
needful.  Our  orchard,  too,  yielded  well,  and,  for  the  last 
time  in  our  history,  we  knew  the  luxury  of  plenty  of  apples 
and  peaches. 

Our  Wyandott  home  in  its  Summer  aspects  was  cheerful 
and  pleasant.  A  district  Indian  school,  under  Government 
pay,  was  taught  by  a  member  of  my  own  family,  to  which 
our  juniors  had  access.  True,  our  quarters  were  somewhat 
straitened  for  a  numerous  household ;  and  the  unplastered 
brick  walls,  under  Indian  neglect,  had  become  tenanted  by 
hosts  of  unwelcome  lodgers  ;  but  then  our  "outdoors"  was 
large,  the  grass-plat  of  our  yard  fine,  and  we  had  lost  all 
our  civilized  horror  of  "  open  air." 

Our  tent,  in  Summer-time,  was  stretched  upon  the  blue- 
grass,  forming  an  appendage  to  the  domicile ;  beds  were 
spread,  and  it  became,  to  part  of  the  family,  a  Summer  dor- 
mitory. One  night,  while  surrounded  by  a  bevy  of  juniors, 
in  profound  repose,  the  darkening  sky  and  rising  wind  gave 
indications  of  an  approaching  storm.  A  voice  at  my  side 


REV.  J.   H.   DENNIS.  337 

suggested  the  propriety  of  looking  out  at  the  signs.  I 
arose  and  stood  at  the  tent-door,  rubbing  my  eyes,  and  try- 
ing to  make  up  an  opinion  about  probabilities.  But  our 
climate  does  not  wait  to  deliberate  long  in  getting  up  a 
storm.  Just  at  that  moment  came  a  furious  gust,  with 
pelting  rain  ;  the  stakes  were  uprooted,  the  tent  capsized, 
and  our  entire  squad  routed  from  their  quarters,  unclad  as 
they  were,  to  seek  a  more  durable  shelter. 

I  can  not  pass  the  name  last  referred  to  without  further 
notice.  REV.  JOHN  H.  DENNIS  was  a  native  of  Maryland. 
He  had  traveled  about  eleven  years,  laboring  acceptably 
and  usefully  in  station,  circuit,  and  district  work.  He  will 
long  be  remembered  for  the  great  personal  courage  exhibited 
in  defense  of  the  martyr  Kelly  from  mob  violence,  and  his 
subsequent  efforts  to  bring  the  offenders  to  justice,  which, 
however,  failed  through  the  violence  of  the  times,  and  per- 
verted official  action  of  men  in  place.  His  health  gave 
way  on  the  Hannibal  district,  and  relief  was  sought  from 
change  of  climate  and  work,  by  an  appointment  to  Dela- 
ware and  Wyandott  mission  in  Kansas.  This  failing,  he 
resigned  his  charge,  and  returned  with  his  family  to  his 
friends  and  former  home  in  Indiana,  where,  on  the  23d  of 
August,  1856,  his  spirit  sweetly  passed  away  to  the  land  of 
rest.  The  published  memoir  says,  "  Brother  Dennis  was  a 
man  of  strong  intellect,  a  sound  divine,  a  bland,  courteous, 
Christian  gentleman,  and  an  able  minister  of  the  Lord 
Jesus ;  in  public  labors  firm,  decided,  and  courageous ;  in 
the  private  relations  mild,  affectionate,  and  gentle  ;  perse- 
vering and  laborious  through  life,  and  triumphant  over  hia 
latest  foe." 

Kansas  Territory  had,  among  her  early  public  functiona- 
ries, some  men  of  intellect,  courage,  patriotism,  and  high 
moral  worth,  while  there  were  others  whose  characters  will 
not  bear  a  very  rigid  scrutiny.  The  career  of  Gov.  REEDER, 
the  first  executive  officer,  was  unfortunate,  and,  by  common 
consent,  he  is  regarded  as  wanting  in  the  great  qualities 
requisite  for  emergencies  such  as  surrounded  him.  A  close 

29 


338  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

observation  of  his  public  course  from  first  to  last,  with  a 
somewhat  intimate,  though  brief,  personal  intercourse,  has 
led  me  to  a  different  conclusion.  As  a  man  of  intellect, 
calm  courage,  legal  and  statesman-like  acquirements,  as  well 
as  moral  and  political  integrity,  I  doubt  if  he  has  been 
equaled  by  any  of  his  successors.  But  he  was  surrounded 
by  furious  and  uncontrollable  elements,  then  just  bursting 
into  action.  He  stood  single-handed  and  alone.  Scoffs, 
taunts,  calumnies,  not  to  say  bullies,  bludgeons,  and  re- 
volvers surrounded  him.  "I  had  to  arm  myself,"  said  he 
to  me,  "before  delivering  my  veto  message.  That  is," 
continued  he,  "  to  add  to  my  ordinary  preparations  for 
defense."  But  the  violence  of  the  times  overcame  him.  I 
am  yet  to  see  the  first  public  act  of  his  administration  to 
which  I  could  take  material  exception. 

An  instance  of  his  calm,  dignified  courage  is  recollected, 
His  prudent,  impartial  course  was  such  that,  for  a  time,  he 
was  claimed  by  both  parties,  and  disputes  ran  high  as  to 
the  opinions  and  influence  of  the  Governor.  Though  not 
participating  in  the  noisy  strife,  still  I  could  not  but  feel 
deeply  interested  in  the  movements  of  that  critical  period. 
In  private  conversation  with  the  Governor,  one  day,  in  his 
own  office,  I  expressed  frankly  our  approbation  of  his  course, 
adding,  "We  do  not  ask  an  expression  of  your  private 
views  on  the  controverted  points ;  all  we  expect  is  an  im- 
partial discharge  of  official  duty."  Without  the  least 
hesitancy,  he  replied  at  once:  "I  have  nothing  to  conceal 
in  the  matter;  I  am  a  free-state  man."  This  was  the  first 
positive  declaration  of  his  position  that  I  had  known  ;  and 
it  was  confirmed  by  every  subsequent  act. 

DR.  CHARLES  ROBINSON,  better  known  as  "  Governor 
Robinson,"  was  one  of  the  early  pioneers.  I  met  him  at 
my  first  quarterly  meeting  in  Lawrence.  He  was  em- 
phatically a  man  for  the  times.  His  excellent  sense,  calm 
courage,  and  decided  advocacy  of  freedom  ;  with  his  prudent 
and  timely  counsels,  always  resorted  to  in  a  time  of  trial, 
made  him  a  common  center  around  whom  to  rally.  His 


GEN.    POMEROY — JOHN   BROWN.  339 

name  was  a  tower  of  strength.  He  has  suffered  loss  of 
property,  "imprisonment  and  bonds."  He  deserves  well 
of  the  people  of  Kansas.  May  he  yet  live  to  reap,  in  better 
days,  some  of  the  rewards  of  his  early  hardships  and  suf- 
ferings ! 

GEN.  S.  C.  PoitEROY  was  early  in  the  field.  Though 
mainly  employed  in  business  transactions,  he  always  has 
been  prominently  identified  with  leading  movements  in  the 
cause  of  freedom.  A  gentleman  of  liberal  attainments  in 
learning,  good  address,  and  excellent  moral  and  religious 
character,  his  extensive  influence  has  always  been  exerted  in 
favor  of  every  measure  that  looked  to  the  real  interests  of 
Kansas,  in  every  department.* 

Any  notice  of  the  men  of  Kansas  at  that  period  would 
be  incomplete  without  the  name  of  JOHN  BROWN.  His 
history  is  widely  before  the  world,  and  every  American 
reader  has  already  fixed  his  estimate  of  the  man.  I  only 
give  the  opinion  then  entertained  of  him  by  the  people  of 
the  Territory,  and  the  impression  of  my  own  mind  from  a 
very  brief  personal  acquaintance.  I  may  safely  say  that  no 
man  had  the  confidence  of  the  free-state  party  in  Kansas 
in  a  higher  degree  than  John  Brown.  His  integrity  and 
cool  bravery  were  by  them  favorably  contrasted  with  the 
instability  and  recklessness  of  some  of  their  prominent 
leaders.  The  same  impression  was  made  on  my  own  mind. 
A  tall,  erect,  gray-haired  man  ;  calm  and  dignified  in  his 
deportment ;  reserved,  yet  sufficiently  free  in  conversation, 
devoid  of  all  boasts  or  affected  airs ;  inclined  to  religious 
conversation,  and  referring  his  own  preservation  to  the  care 
of  Divine  Providence.  "They  would  have  given  some- 
thing for  your  scalp,"  said  I  to  him  on  meeting  him  soon 
after  the  affair  at  Black  Jack.  "Divine  Providence  has 
spared  my  life,"  said  he.  Nothing  of  the  desperado  ap- 
peared in  his  character. 


*Now  an  active  and  influential  member  of  the  United  States  Sen- 
ate.—1863. 


340  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

As  the  Summer  approached,  the  mode  of  travel  was 
changed.  Saddle  and  saddle-bags,  the  emblems  of  old 
itinerancy,  to  which  I  still  adhere  in  Winter,  were  substi- 
tuted by  buggy  and  harness,  and  the  faithful  saddle-steed 
became  equally  subservient  in  the  draught.  This  afforded 
greater  facilities  for  transportation,  and  the  traveling  estab- 
lishment was  enlarged  accordingly.  Blanket,  satchel,  small 
trunk  with  wardrobe,  and  books  and  tracts  for  distribution, 
horse-bucket,  picket  rope,  sack  of  corn  for  emergencies, 
monkey-wrench,  hatchet,  gimlet,  nails  and  pocket  compass, 
with  the  never-failing  coffee-pot  and  camp  cup,  and  a  store 
of  needful  provisions,  constituted  the  outfit.  A  fine  melon, 
in  season,  for  the  nooning,  was  not  a  rare  accompaniment. 
An  occasional  fellow-traveler  or  two  were  invited  guests, 
who  never  failed  to  make  ample  returns  in  the  shape  of 
commendations  of  my  culinary  skill ;  especially  in  the 
article  of  coffee,  the  great  sine  qua  non  of  travelers  upon 
the  frontier,  and  the  Plains. 

At  times,  my  cushions  and  blanket  proved  exceedingly 
convenient  in  furnishing  a  bed  upon  the  "individual-re- 
sponsibility system."  One  Summer  night,  driven  from  my 
little  warm  cabin  quarters  by  the  hostile  demonstrations  of 
officious  fellow-lodgers,  claiming  a  joint  occupancy,  I  fled 
with  my  personal  equipage  to  the  "  timber,"  laid  me  down 
at  the  root  of  a  tree,  and,  despite  the  rattlesnakes,  slept  till 
early  dawn ;  then  returning  to  the  house,  the  family  still  in 
their  morning  nap,  I  established  a  character  for  early 
rising  ;  nor  to  this  day  do  my  kind  hosts  know  but  that  I 
enjoyed,  under  their  roof,  a  night  of  undisturbed  repose. 


A   RATTLESNAKE   IN  A   CONGREGATION.  341 


CHAPTER   XII. 

DISTRICT     LAB  0  RS  — I  NC  I  D  E  NT  S. 

RETURNING  from  my  Eastern  trip,  I  was  soon  out  again 
upon  the  labors  of  the  district.  The  third  quarterly  meet- 
ing for  Wakarusa  mission  was  held  in  a  grove  upon  the 
west  side  of  the  stream  of  the  same  name.  The  stream 
was  swollen,  and  the  attendance  diminished ;  still  the  Sab- 
bath brought  a  fair  congregation.  An  incident  occurred 
here  that  might  have  produced  a  sensation  among  a  people 
more  nervous  or  less  used  to  excitements.  In  the  midst  of 
my  sermon  a  rattlesnake  made  his  appearance  among  the 
people  with  his  usual  demonstrations  ;  a  little  local  flurry 
was  got  up  in  that  particular  section  of  the  audience ;  but 
his  snakeship  was  soon  dispatched,  and  the  services  pro- 
ceeded as  if  nothing  had  occurred.  Nobody  fainted. 

Leaving  Wakarusa,  I  bent  my  course  up  the  Kaw  or 
Kansas  River,  intending,  at  this  time,  to  visit  the  extreme 
of  the  settlements.  Crossing  the  river  above  Topeka,  and 
keeping  up  through  the  Pottawatamie  reserve,  I  reached  the 
mouth  of  Big  Blue,  where  a  considerable  settlement  had 
been  made,  and  a  town  laid  off.  In  this  settlement  were 
several  able  local  preachers  from  the  East,  and  quite  a  num- 
ber of  intelligent  and  educated  men.  Among  them  I  suc- 
ceeded in  finding  a  supply  for  Fort  Riley  mission,  which 
was  to  include  all  the  adjacent  country;  after  passing  the 
night,  I  took  him  into  my  buggy,  and  set  off  to  introduce 
him  to  his  work. 

A  few  miles  below  Fort  Riley  we  came  to  the  town  of 
Pawnee,  finely  situated  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Kaw, 
surrounded  with  an  abundant  supply  of  the  best  building- 
stone  that  I  have  ever  seen,  lying  exposed,  or  easily  taken 


342  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

out  from  the  ledges  of  the  bluff,  in  blocks  and  squares  of 
regular  shape,  and  almost  ready  to  be  put  up  into  a  build- 
ing without  the  tool  of  a  mason. 

This  was  the  place  at  which  Governor  Reeder  convened 
the  first  session  of  the  Territorial  Legislature,  wisely  judg- 
ing it  best  to  have  them  remote  from  the  exciting  and  cor- 
rupting influences  of  the  State  border ;  but  from  which  they 
adjourned  instanter  to  the  Shawnee  Mission,  within  two 
miles  of  the  Missouri  line.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  a 
number  of  good  houses  were  up,  or  in  process  of  erection  ; 
one  large  building  by  the  Governor  himself,  intended  to  ac- 
commodate the  members  of  the  Legislature.  I  preached  in 
the  hotel  to  an  attentive  and  orderly  congregation. 

But  Pawnee  was  destined  to  a  short  existence.  Sharing 
in  the  odium  unjustly  excited  against  its  executive  patron, 
it  was,  by  some  collusive  arrangements,  as  it  is  believed, 
with  the  authorities  at  Washington,  declared  to  be  within 
the  limits  of  Fort  Riley  Military  Reservation ;  the  inhab- 
itants were  driven  off,  and  the  houses  demolished  or  left 
tenantless. 

Traveling  on  to  the  Fort,  we  found  it  finely  improved 
with  large,  new,  tasteful  buildings,  erected  from  the  excel- 
lent stone  in  the  vicinity,  and  manned  with  courteous  and 
gentlemanly  officers.  We  continued  our  course  up  to  the 
Forks,  where  the  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  uniting  form 
•the  Kansas  River.  Crossing  the  Republican  upon  a  Gov- 
ernment bridge,  we  passed  up  into  the  Forks.  Here  we 
found  a  company  mostly  of  our  Church,  from  Cincinnati, 
whose  acquaintance  I  had  formed  in  that  city  on  my  recent 
visit.  They  had  purchased  a  steamboat,  shipped  a  dozen  or 
more  frame  houses,  with  other  necessary  freight,  and,  with 
their  families,  made  their  way  up  Kansas  River  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  the  Blue,  and  were  unable,  for  want  of  water,  to 
proceed  further.  The  point  at  which  I  found  them  was 
their  previously-selected  spot.  There  they  were  to  build  a 
town,  to  be  called  " Manhattan,"  and  to  establish  a  colony; 
and  to  this  place  many  of  the  company,  at  the  stoppage  of 


SCIENTIFIC   FARMING.  343 

the  boat,  had  made  their  way  by  land.  They  were  encamped 
on  the  bank  of  the  Smoky  Hill,  and  actively  engaged  in 
laying  off  the  projected  town. 

But  the  fickle  river  would  not  afford  the  desired  transit. 
The  boat  never  reached  her  destination,  nor  was  ever  able 
to  retreat.  Her  race  was  ended,  and  with  it  perished,  in  a 
good  degree,  the  delusive  hope  of  Kansas  River  navigation. 
An  overture  for  consolidation  was  made  to  the  Manhattan 
company  by  the  company  at  the  mouth  of  the  Blue.  It 
was  accepted.  The  frames  were  taken  ashore  opposite  the 
stranded  steamer,  and  soon  appeared  in  the  form  of  neat 
cottages ;  their  former  name  was  abandoned,  and  that  of 
"Manhattan"  assumed;  the  adventurers  from  the  Forks  re- 
turned, all  efforts  were  united,  and  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing towns  of  interior  Kansas  sprung  up.  At  this  place, 
through  the  untiring  exertions  of  Rev.  J.  Dennison,  Pro- 
fessor Goodenow  and  others,  a  literary  institution  has  been 
founded  under  the  name  of  "  Bluemont  College,"  which  is 
likely  to  prove  an  honor  and  a  blessing  to  Central  Kansas. 

Here  1  had  an  amusing  illustration,  added  to  many  pre- 
vious and  subsequent  ones,  of  the  awkward  and  perplexing 
circumstances  in  which  men  are  placed  who  attempt  a  sud- 
den transition  from  habits  of  study  and  literary  ease,  or 
even  from  commercial  and  mechanical  pursuits,  to  the  rough 
and  unaccustomed  scenes  of  fitting  up  a  frontier  home  and 

turning  farmers.  Visiting  my  friend,  Rev.  ,  I 

found  himself  and  another  making  their  debut  in  agricul- 
tural life  in  this  country,  and — if  I  might  so  judge — in  any 
country.  Both  were  men  of  intellect  and  cultivation,  both 
could  conjugate  a  Greek  or  Latin  verb,  or  demonstrate  a 
problem  in  Euclid  with  facility ;  one  of  them  could  preach 
to  the  edification  of  the  dwellers  in  the  good  city  of  B.,  and 
the  other  could  conduct  New  England  youth  to  literary 
honors.  But  all  this  gave  them  no  particular  advantage  in 
raising  corn  and  potatoes. 

Learning  their  locality  I  went  out  to  view  the  operation, 
and  found  them  in  a  bend  of  Wild  Cat  Creek.  Despairing 


344  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

of  breaking  prairie  sod  without  a  heavier  team,  they  had 
betaken  themselves  to  the  soft  alluvial  loam  upon  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  overgrown  with  a  luxuriant  crop  of  weeds 
and  vines.  A  pair  of  long,  lank  horses  were  attached  to  a 
huge  plow.  One  of  the  literati  held  the  handles,  while  the 
other,  lines  and  whip  in  hand,  endeavored  to  goad  and 
guide  the  team.  But  all  their  literature,  science,  and  the- 
ology were  insufficient.  The  propelling  power  was  inade- 
quate, and  went  by  starts  and  stops.  The  roots  resisted,  and 
the  rank  vines  wound  round  the  monster  implement  and 
threw  it  out.  In  vain  did  the  scholar  at  the  handles  labor 
to  hold  her  to  her  course.  I  took  hold  myself  and  endeav- 
ored to  give  them  the  benefit  of  my  superior  skill,  but  soon 
retired  from  the  field.  The  immediate  sequel  I  do  not 
know,  but  the  finale  was  that  my  friends  both  concluded  to 
return  to  the  department  of  life  for  which  God  and  educa- 
tion had  fitted  them,  and  from  their  labors  lasting  and  bene- 
ficial results  have  been  reaped.  The  reader  may  take  the 
foregoing  as  a  fair  sample  of  the  perplexities  of  untaught 
frontier  adventurers.  There  was  good  sense  in  the  reply  of 
the  sainted  and  eloquent  John  Strange  when,  having  lost 
his  horse  upon  his  district,  one  asked  him,  "Are  you  not 
going  to  look  for  your  horse?"  "No,"  said  he,  in  his 
usual  blunt  but  pleasant  way,  "there  are  plenty  of  men 
here  that  can  hunt  a  horse  as  well  as  I  can,  that  can't 
preach  a  bit." 

The  quarterly  meeting  for  Fort  Riley  mission  was  held 
at  the  house  of  Mr.  D.  on  the  bank  of  Big  Blue.  As  this 
family  has  already  gained  some  celebrity  by  a  book  notice, 
I  may  speak  somewhat  particularly  of  them.  They  had 

been  visited  by  Rev.  Mr. ,  pastor  of  the Church  in 

the  city  of  ,  while  out  on  his  early  tour  through  this 

Territory.  On  his  return  the  Rev.  gentleman  wrote  a  book 
of  travels  in  Kansas,  which  gained  large  circulation.  The 
family  had  a  conspicuous  notice  in  his  book.  Their  resi- 
dence is  the  place  described  as  a  cabin  "  one  story  high,  and 
three  stories  long."  The  author  was  kindly  and  hospitably 


AN   UNKIND   CUT.  345 

entertained  as  a  clergyman.  His  character  gave  access,  his 
devotional  exercises  interested  them,  and  some  very  frank 
confessions  \vere  made  of  departures  from  previous  habits 
of  piety.  In  making  up  the  book,  these  were  published, 
and,  with  some  peculiar  exhibitions  of  simple  and  confiding 
candor,  were  held  up  to  ridicule.  The  book  found  its  way 
into  the  Territory.  The  picture  was  recognized.  It  came 
to  the  eyes  and  ears  of  the  simple-hearted  family.  They 
were  stung  bitterly,  and  doubtless,  afterward,  were  more 
careful  how  they  "entertained  strangers  unawares." 

The  patriarch  of  this  large  household  had  long  been  resi- 
dent there  ;  first  employed  by  the  Government  to  keep  a  ferry 
for  military  uses,  over  the  Big  Blue ;  then  concerned  in  the 
building  of  the  Government  bridge ;  eventually,  a  regular 
"  squatter,"  under  the  organizing  act.  The  family  were 
cheerful,  industrious,  and  thrifty,  with  no  peculiarities  not 
familiar  to  the  frontier  traveler.  We  were  generously  en- 
tertained, and  upon  our  organizing  a  society  at  the  quar- 
terly meeting,  the  parents  became  united  with  us  in  Church 
membership. 

Barely  touching  at  home  on  my  return,  I  passed  on  to 
the  northern  section  of  the  work.  The  third  quarterly 
meeting  for  Leavenworth  mission  was  held  in  a  grove  in  the 
edge  of  the  town,  now  a  dense  part  of  the  city.  This  was 
a  good  season.  We  organized  a  society  of  considerable 
numbers  and  promising  character.  Some  of  the  meetings 
were  seasons  of  great  spiritual  refreshing.  All  hearts 
seemed  encouraged  to  wage  the  battle  anew. 

Here  the  young  preacher,  who  was  to  have  accompanied 
me  northward,  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  his  horse  for  a 
time  by  straying.  The  never-failing  picket  rope,  or  halter, 
always  secured  mine.  I  could  not  delay,  so  I  journeyed  on 
alone,  leaving  him  to  follow.  It  was  my  purpose  to  make 
the  present  trip  mainly  upon  the  Nebraska  side,  through 
some  new  settlements  which  I  had  not  yet  visited.  Accord- 
ingly, leaving  the  Missouri  River  at  a  point  opposite  St. 
Joseph,  I  traveled  out  in  the  direction  of  Wolf  River,  pass- 


346  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ing  through  the  section  proposed  to  be  organized  into  a  new 
mission  field.  Passed  a  night  at  the.  Iowa  Mission,  a 
Presbyterian  establishment  already  referred  to,  and  received 
the  accustomed  missionary  welcome  and  good  cheer  from 
the  Superintendent,  Rev.  Mr.  Irwin.  Here  I  met  with  Hon. 
Walter  Lowiy,  once  a  member  of  the  United  States  Senate, 
but  in  later  life  devoting  all  his  time  and  influence  to  the 
work  of  missions,  as  Secretary  of  the  Board. 

Leaving  the  mission,  I  took  my  course  for  the  mouth  of 
Great  Nemaha,  which  I  succeeded  in  crossing  at  an  Indian 
ferry.  Passing  up  through  the  uninhabitaed  tract  known 
as  Half-Breed  Lands,  I  visited  the  settlements  then  forming 
in  the  rear,  near  where  the  town  of  Archer  was  subsequently 
located.  Failing  to  find  the  preacher  who  had  been  em- 
ployed upon  this  mission,  I  again  turned  northward,  pur- 
posing to  cross  the  Little  Nemaha  at  a  ford  upon  an  old 
Government  trail.  Advancing,  I  found  this  impracticable, 
and  no  course  remained  but  to  cross  the  Missouri,  pass 
around  the  mouth,  and  then  recross. 

Arrived  at  the  river,  I  found  a  company  of  men  on  its 
bank  engaged  in  laying  off  a  town.  Quite  a  surprise  was 
manifested  at  seeing  one,  equipped  as  I  was,  come  in  from 
the  rear,  with  some  curiosity  as  to  my  real  character.  At 
first  I  was  conjectured  to  be  the  Government  Agent,  whom 
they  expected.  Corrected  in  this  they  supposed  me  to  be  a 
land  adventurer,  and  I  was  belabored  with  highly-wrought 
statements  of  the  prospects  of  the  intended  town  at  that 
point. 

A  singular  instance  was  presented  here  of  the  passion  of 
European  Catholics  for  canonization.  The  projected  town 
was  to  receive  a  name,  for  what  is  a  Western  town  without 
a  name  ?  One  of  the  leaders  in  the  enterprise  was  a 
Frenchman,  who  kept  a  trading  shanty  near  the  spot.  The 
devout  trader,  at  once,  tacked  the  appellation  of  "Saint" 
to  his  own  cognomen,  and  thenceforward,  to  this  day,  the 

little  town  has  borne  the  euphonious  name  of  "  St. ," 

leaving  all  to  wonder  where  and  how  he  was  canonized. 


BELLEVUE   LETTER.  347 

The  wind  was  high.  After  some  detention,  I  was  taken 
over  at  "my  own  risk." 

Reaching  Nebraska  City,  our  quarterly  meeting  exercises 
were  again  held  in  a  contiguous  grove,  near  the  spot  of 
their  present  beautiful  park  ground.  At  Omaha  we  still 
occupied  the  State-House.  Here  a  man,  under  charge  of 
murder,  and  in  custody  of  the  sheriff,  for  want  of  a  jail, 
was  brought  by  the  officer  to  preaching  on  the  Sabbath. 
He  seemed  deeply  affected.  I  returned  through  Bellevue, 
and  again  had  the  privilege  of  preaching  among  my  Pres- 
byterian friends  at  the  mission.  I  extract  from  my  pub- 
lished letter  dated  Bellevue,  N.  T.,  June  25,  1855 : 

"  At  this  mission  I  again  find  the  indefatigable  agent, 
Mr.  Lowry,  who,  with  Rev.  Mr.  Hamilton,  has  just  re- 
turned from  a  visit  to  the  Omahas  upon  their  present  reser- 
vation. On  leaving,  they  withdrew  nearly  all  their  children 
from  the  school.  The  object  of  the  visit  was  to  consult 
them  in  relation  to  the  removal  of  the  school  and  the  erec- 
tion of  buildings  upon  the  reserve.  Their  men  had  started 
upon  a  hunting  excursion  to  the  buffalo  grounds.  The 
agent  and  missionary  followed  and  overtook  them.  Evil 
influences  had  been  at  work  among  them.  Logan,  the  prin- 
cipal Chief,  refused  to  be  seen.  White  Cow,  another  Chief, 
with  the  principal  men,  had  an  interview,  and  responded 
about  as  follows :  '  We  want  our  children  educated,  but 
are  unwilling  to  send  them  so  far  away  as  to  the  old  school. 
We  do  n't  know  where  to  tell  you  to  build.  We  are  chil- 
dren. We  have  been  promised  protection  by  the  Govern- 
ment and  have  not  obtained  it.  We  are  here  exposed.  One 
of  our  men  has  been  killed  by  our  enemies,  the  Sioux.  We 
know  not  what  to  do  till  the  Great  Father  will  do  some- 
thing for  us.' ' 

It  was  arranged  during  this  trip  that  I  should  not  visit 
the  Nebraska  portion  of  the  work  again  that  Fall,  but  that 
the  several  preachers  should  hold  their  own  quarterly  meet- 
ings at  the  times  appointed.  This  was  rendered  necessary 
by  the  near  approach  of  the  Annual  Conference,  and  the 


348  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

necessity  of  my  being  present  at  the  sessions  of  two  differ- 
ent Conferences,  with  some  extra  traveling  meanwhile  in 
Kansas. 

About  this  time  the  first  session  of  the  Territorial  Legis- 
lature of  Kansas,  known  as  the  "Bogus  Legislature,"  was 
held  at  the  Shawnee  Mission.  The  place  was  within  a  few 
miles  of  my  residence,  and  I  was  an  occasional  looker-on. 
Its  wild  and  reckless  course  of  legislation  is  matter  of 
history.  The  state  of  morals  at  "  the  Mission  "  was  little 
better.  An  incident  will  illustrate.  A  juvenile  of  my  own 
household  was  employed  there  during  the  session,  in  the 
execution  of  the  public  printing.  A  lame  limb  rendered  it 
necessary  to  call  surgical  aid,  which  he  obtained  from  one 
of  the  members.  After  the  prescription,  the  doctor  gravely 
added,  "And  you  must  not  drink  any  liquor  till  it  gets 
well,"  seeming  to  take  for  granted  the  universal  use  of 
"  liquor  "  by  all  about  the  premises. 

The  check  given  to  Kansas  at  this  early  day,  in  her 
morals,  education,  agriculture,  legislation,  and  every  mate- 
rial interest,  has  not  yet  been  recovered  from.  Time  only, 
by  the  blessing  of  God  and  the  efforts  of  good  men,  can 
give  stability  and  healthful  life  to  a  community,  torn  and 
distracted  by  years  of  anarchy  and  outrage  unparalleled  in 
the  history  of  a  free  and  enlightened  people. 


TOUR  TO   SOUTHERN   KANSAS.  349 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

DISTRICT    LABORS— BORDER    EXCITEMENTS. 

PREVIOUS  to  commencing  the  regular  labors  of  the  fourth 
quarter,  a  tour  was  to  be  made  to  Southern  Kansas.  Ac- 
cordingly, in  the  last  days  of  July,  I  set  out.  The  weather 
was  intensely  warm,  and  the  flies,  in  day-time,  almost 
beyond  endurance. 

Desirous  of  knowing  the  state  of  things  below  the  line,  I 
determined  to  cross  into  the  State  and  take  my  route  down 
South  through  the  border  counties,  visiting  our  Missouri 
brethren  by  the  way,  recross  into  the  Territory  near  Fort 
Scott,  and  then  return  by  the  military  road.  My  first  point 
was  Independence.  Here  I  found  our  little  band  free  from 
positive  violence,  but  greatly  intimidated,  and  under  con- 
tinual apprehensions  of  an  outbreak. 

Passing  on  down  through  Cass  county,  I  spent  a  little 
time  at  Harrisonville.  The  mob  spirit  here  had  broken 
forth  ;  the  circuit  preacher  had  been  expelled,  and  efforts 
had  been  made  to  fix  the  usual  charges  of  abolitionism  and 
incendiary  purposes  upon  a  venerable  superannuated  minister 
of  our  Church,  resident  in  the  vicinity,  Rev.  William  Fer- 
ril,  who  had  spent  most  of  his  life  in  Missouri.  His  house 
was  visited  by  the  gang ;  but  his  venerable  years  and  high 
standing  in  the  community,  with  his  own  personal  courage, 
saved  him  from  actual  violence. 

Thence  I  traveled  to  West  Point,  near  the  Territorial 
line,  visiting  the  brethren  there ;  then  recrossed  into  the 
Territory  and  took  the  old  military  road  south.  In  the 
vicinity  of  Jem's  old  French  trading  post,  mentioned  in  the 
previous  part  of  this  volume,  I  found,  during  this  visit,  an 
interesting  field  hitherto  unoccupied  by  our  preachers.  I 


350  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

tarried,  visited  the  sick,  preached,  organized  a  society,  and 
left  them  encouraged.  Here,  however,  I  submitted  to  a  tax, 
to  me  more  annoying  than  any  thing  else  encountered  in 
frontier  travel,  involving,  as  it  did,  loss  of  rest,  and  subse- 
quent debility  and  unfitness  for  encountering  the  heat  and 
fatigue.  On  retiring  at  bedtime,  I  observed  that  the  family 
eschewed  the  beds  and  took  lodgings  on  the  floor.  A  pallet 
was  offered  me,  but  I  took  a  bed.  The  secret,  however,  was 
soon  explained  by  the  depleting  process  to  which  I  was 
subjected  during  the  night.  On  my  return,  I  had  resolved 
to  profit  by  the  experience  of  the  past  and  share  in  the  floor 
accommodations.  But,  on  arriving,  I  was  pleased  to  find 
that,  in  the  interim,  the  cabin  had  undergone  a  thorough 
renovation ;  the  intruders  had  suffered  summary  vengeance, 
and  all  was  prepared  for  a  due  reception.  So  the  point  was 
practically  gained  without  resorting  to  a  homily,  as  our 
fathers  sometimes  did,  on  "  cleanliness  next  to  godliness." 

Crossing  the  Maries  Des  Cygnes,  or  Osage  River  as  it  is 
here  called,  at  Jeru's,  I  made  my  way  to  Fort  Scott,  since 
so  noted  in  the  border  struggle.  Twelve  years  before  I  had, 
as  the  reader  has  seen,  visited  this  place  under  circumstances 
of  difficulty,  when  occupied  by  a  garrison,  and  been  sub- 
jected to  the  exercise  of  a  little  "brief  authority."  Now 
it  had  been  evacuated,  the  costly  buildings  had,  for  a  trifling 
consideration,  been  sold  to  a  few  border  men,  and  a  strong- 
hold established  where  scenes  of  violence  and  blood  have 
been  plotted  and  executed,  keeping  the  adjacent  country  in 
excitement  and  terror. 

A  preacher  from  one  of  the  Conferences,  such  as  brethren 
probably  thought  "would  do  for  the  frontier,"  had  been 
recommended,  transferred,  and  sent  to  this  place.  Here  I 
found  him  enjoying  the  cool  shades  of  one  of  the  Fort 
buildings,  inefficient,  unemployed,  un influential ;  just  the 
man  to  bring  our  cause  and  work  into  disrepute.  Finding, 
at  the  Fort,  no  resting-place  for  the  soles  of  my  feet,  I  left 
an  appointment  for  the  next  day — Sabbath — to  be  arranged 
by  our  nominal  representative,  and,  driving  to  some  dis- 


TRANSFER   OF   DRONES.  351 

tance,  I  found  a  temporary  home  at  the  cabin  of  Mr. 
Griffith,  a  former  acquaintance  and  graduate  of  Asbury 
University,  since  prominent  in  the  history  of  the  Territory. 

Returning  to  the  Fort  at  the  time  appointed,  I  had  the 
mortification  to  find  that  the  hands  to  which  my  appoint- 
ment was  committed,  had  proved  too  timid,  or  too  in- 
efficient, for  the  accomplishment  even  of  that  task.  No 
arrangement  was  made,  and  I  was  doomed,  after  listening 
incog,  to  an  illiterate  and  bitter  tirade  against  "  Northern 
Methodism,"  from  a  herald  of  the  "Gospel  of  peace,"  to 
retire  from  this  place  without  a  hearing ;  the  first  and  only 
time  that  I  submitted  to  that  mortification  ;  and  then  only 
because  I  had  for  once  consented  to  act  through  another.  I 
met  no  personal  insult,  but  my  buggy,  standing  on  the 
square,  received  an  assault,  intended  or  unintended,  from 
the  effects  of  which  it  never  recovered. 

Before  the  ensuing  session  of  our  Conference,  the  doughty 
transfer  had  left  for  his  trans-Mississippi  home,  and  the 
Conference,  in  due  appreciation  of  his  labors,  generously 
discontinued  him,  leaving  his  valuable  services  to  those  who 
had  so  disinterestedly  recommended  him.  If  the  older 
Conferences  find  themselves  in  possession  of  drones,  let 
them  not  send  them  to  the  frontier.  There  is  no  place 
where  both  their  nerve  and  caliber  will  be  more  promptly 
tested.  It  may  well  be  supposed  that  the  associated  recol- 
lections of  my  two  visits  to  this  spot  were  not  the  most 
agreeable.  I  hope  for  it  a  better  future.  Some  further 
glances  over  the  line  were  made  on  my  way  home. 

Conference  was  now  approaching,  and  the  1st  of  Septem- 
ber found  me  again  on  the  Maries  Des  Cygnes,  commencing 
the  brief  and  partial  labors  of  the  fourth  quarter.  Here  I 
met  with  a  preacher  from  just  across  the  line,  who  desired  a 
place  in  the  Territory.  At  the  subsequent  Conference  I 
applied  for  him;  but,  in  the  judgment  of  brethren,  "he 
could  not  be  spared."  Another  was  kindly  offered  as 
"suitable  for  our  work,"  whom,  on  my  declining,  they 
found  reason  to  honor  with  a  location,  unsought.  Such  is 


352  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

the  dependent  condition  of  frontier  work ;  and  such  it 
must  remain,  while  a  mere  appendage  of  other  Conferences. 
Their  "tender  mercies  are  cruel." 

From  this  place  I  visited  Ossawatamie,  so  named  from  its 
beautiful  situation  at  the  junction  of  the  Osage  River  and 
Pottawatamie  Creek  ;  a  place  destined  to  a  subsequent  his- 
torical fame  in  the  after  struggles  of  the  country.  To  this 
place  I  had  been  repeatedly  invited  by  0.  P.  Brown,  Esq., 
an  early  settler  and  proprietor,  known  in  Kansas  as  the 
real  "  Ossawatamie  Brown,"  but  whose  cognomen  was  subse- 
quently transferred  by  the  Eastern  press  to  John  Brown,  of 
Harper's  Ferry  notoriety.  Here  I  preached  and  formed 
some  pleasant  acquaintances. 

Another  Sabbath  found  me  on  Independence  Creek, 
holding  the  quarterly  meeting  for  Fort  Leavenworth  mis- 
sion, in  the  vicinity  of  Atchison,  famous  for  floating 
"  abolitionists  "  down  the  river  on  logs.  Threats  had  been 
made  that  our  quarterly  meeting  should  not  be  suffered  to 
be  held.  Our  brethren  in  the  neighborhood  had  been  so 
intimidated  as  to  omit  all  preparation.  The  day  came. 
Our  Saturday  exercises  were  duly  attended  to  ;  our  presence 
became  known,  and  on  Sabbath  we  had  a  respectable  con- 
gregation. I  tried  to  preach  a  faithful  sermon  from  2  Peter 
iii,  14.  Some  of  the  gang  were  in  attendance,  but  "not  a 
dog  moved  his  tongue."  After  service,  they  were  invited  to 
remain  and  dine,  which  they  did,  demeaning  themselves 
well  and  retiring  peaceably.  At  this  meeting,  among 
others,  was  Judge  Collins,  who  soon  after  met  a  violent 
death  at  Doniphan  ;  a  man  to  be  remembered. 

Passing  through  the  Delaware  lands  on  my  return,  I  met 
Rev.  J.  H.  Dennis  and  lady  on  their  way  to  Leavenworth, 
where,  by  special  arrangement,  he  was  to  preach  the  ensuing 
Sabbath.  From  him  I  learned  that,  during  my  absence, 
quite  an  excitement  had  broken  out  among  the  Wyandotts  ; 
or  rather  among  the  reckless  half-breeds,  urged  on  by  un- 
principled white  men.  A  transient  man,  a  hanger-on  of 
our  Church,  charged  with  tampering  with  slaves,  had  been 


WYANDOTT  EXCITEMENT.  353 

seized,  abused,  and  driven  off  by  a  mob  ;  and  a  committee 
had  been  appointed,  who  only  waited  my  return,  to  "  warn 
me  out"  of  the  Nation.  Quite  a  consternation  had  spread, 
especially  in  the  female  department  of  some  of  the  families 
associated  with  us,  and  my  return  was  looked  to  as  a  crisis. 
Upon  learning  from  me  that  arrangements  for  his  labor  at 
Leavenworth  were  not  as  contemplated,  brother  D.  and  wife 
accompanied  me  back. 

On  reaching  home,  I  found  that  my  excellent  brother 
Dennis  had  communicated  to  my  eldest  son,  then  for  a  time 
with  us,  the  state  of  things,  taking  the  kind  precaution  of 
admonishing  him  "not  to  tell  his  mother."  But  he,  know- 
ing her  temperament  better  than  his  adviser,  went  home 
and  deliberately  informed  her  of  all.  I  found  her  perfectly 
cool  and  self-possessed  as  to  herself  and  family,  though  not 
without  apprehensions  on  my  behalf.  "It  is  you  they  are 
after;"  said  she,  "I  have  no  fears  whatever  in  your  ab- 
sence." A  call  had  actually  been  made  by  unwonted 
visitors,  supposed  to  have  been  the  appointed  committee  of 
notification,  but  not  finding  me,  they  had,  after  being 
politely  treated,  retired  without  making  known  their  errand. 

My  course  was  soon  fixed.  I  thought  I  knew  where  the 
mainspring  among  the  Wyandotts  was ;  and  I  determined 
to  confront  the  matter  at  once.  The  Council  was  to  sit  in 
a  few  days,  and  I  resolved  to  bring  the  subject  before  them. 
Meanwhile  Mud-Eater,  one  of  the  Chiefs  on  whose  integrity 
and  friendship  I  relied,  called  at  my  house.  I  consulted 
with  him,  and  he  approved  the  course. 

All  English  communications  were  made  to  the  Council 

through  ,  the  United  States  interpreter,  a  name  well 

known,  and  one  who  has  since  acted  a  part  in  Kansas 
affairs  ;  the  very  man  whom  I  suspected,  and  whom,  above 
all  others,  I  wished  to  confront.  I  suggested  to  my  friend, 

the  Chief,  that might  not  interpret  faithfully,  and  thus 

defeat  my  object  by  misrepresenting  my  statements.  "  No/' 
said  he,  "  he  dares  not  do  that ;  there  are  too  many  of  us 
that  understand  English." 

30 


354  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

The  day  came ;  the  Council  convened,  and  my  talk  was 
heard.  I  said  to  them  in  substance  as  follows  :  "When  I 
came  into  your  country,  I  asked  your  permission  to  reside 
for  a  time  among  your  people.  I  told  you  then  that  I 
should  endeavor  to  conduct  myself  well,  and  to  '  do  you 
good,  and  not  harm.'  You  granted  me  the  leave,  and 
received  me  kindly.  Your  people  have  treated  me  well. 
My  home  among  you  has  been  pleasant ;  I  have  nothing 
to  complain  of.  I,  too,  on  my  part,  have  tried  to  demean 
myself  properly.  I  have  not  interfered  in  the  affairs  of  the 
Nation,  nor  in  any  way  sought  to  produce  excitement.  I 
have  tried,  as  I  promised,  to  do  you  'good,  and  not  harm/ 
I  have  learned,  however,  that,  during  my  late  absence,  a 
very  great  excitement  has  prevailed  in  the  Nation,  attended 
with  some  violence.  I  am  also  informed  that  one  of  the 
causes  of  this  excitement  is  my  residence  among  you. 
Now,  if  my  residence  here  is  likely  to  produce  disturbances 
among  the  Wyandott  people,  I  will  at  once  remove  out  of 
the  Nation,  inconvenient  as  it  would  be  at  present  to  do  so. 
Understand  me.  I  am  not  asking  the  Council  to  protect, 
me ;  that  I  will  attend  to  myself.  All  I  want  is  a  frank 
expression  from  the  Council.  Should  you  now,  or  at  any 
subsequent  time,  think  my  removal  necessary  to  the  peace 
of  the  Nation,  I  wish  you  to  say  so,  and  I  will  at  once 
retire  without  its  limits." 

The  speech  was  interpreted,  sentence  by  sentence,  and 
was  heard  respectfully.  A  long  period  of  silence  followed. 
I  almost  began  to  think  I  should  get  no  reply.  At  length 
the  old  Head-Chief,  Ta-roo-me,  signified  his  readiness  to 
announce  the  decision.  But  the  interpreter,  meanwhile, 
had  retired,  having  a  seeming  disrelish  for  the  business. 
Another  was  called  to  act  pro  tern,,  and,  through  him,  I 
was  addressed  about  as  follows:  "We  gave  you  leave  to 
come  among  us.  You  have  behaved  yourself  well,  and 
done  us  'good,  and  not  harm.'  We  have  nothing  against 
you.  There  is  no  cause  for  your  leaving  our  Nation.  You 
need  not  mind  the  threats  of  these  lawless  fellows.  They 


FIRST   CAMP   MEETING.  355 

are  not  sustained  by  our  people.  Should  we  at  any  time 
think  it  necessary  for  you  to  leave  the  Nation,  we  will  let 
you  know." 

Making,  in  turn,  my  best  acknowledgments,  I  retired. 
Here  this  bit  of  diplomacy  ended.  On  leaving  the  Council- 
House,  I  found  my  quondam  friend,  the  interpreter,  soli- 
tarily musing  outdoors.  I  approached  him,  and  entered 
into  conversation.  He  disclaimed  all  participation  in  the 
late  movements,  and  all  hostile  purposes  toward  myself, 
but  significantly  added,  "I  have  heard  the  Parkville  men 
making  inquiry  into  the  complexion  of  your  political  sen- 
timents." The  implied  threat  contained  in  this  innuendo 
was  understood.  I  only  replied,  "  I  do  not  know  that  the 
Parkville  men  have  any  thing  to  do  with  '  the  complexion ' 
of  my  political  sentiments,"  and  we  parted.  Returning 
home,  I  loaded  a  revolver,  and  laid  it  in  a  conspicuous 
place  upon  my  writing-table,  where  all  who  entered  might 
see  it ;  leaving  it  to  speak  for  itself,  and  giving  no  explana- 
tions as  to  its  intended  use. 

I  received  no  further  molestation.  Threats,  however, 
were  made  to  a  small  lad  of  our  household,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  keep  him  near  home,  or  with  a  protector.  My 
premises,  too,  were  said  to  have  been  searched  for  a  run- 
away slave  ;  but,  if  done  at  all,  it  was  a  mere  ruse,  and 
carefully  kept  from  my  knowledge. 

The  season  for  camp  meetings  had  now  arrived.  One 
was  held  in  Nebraska,  in  my  absence  ;  but,  glad  as  we  were 
to  avail  ourselves  of  this  powerful  frontier  agency,  I  had 
thought  it  best  to  discourage,  for  this  year,  the  holding  of 
camp  meetings  in  Kansas,  near  the  border,  lest  thereby  we 
should  afford  the  enemy  too  good  an  opportunity  to  muster 
his  forces.  In  lieu  of  these  a  general  district  camp  meet- 
ing had  been  appointed  in  the  interior,  to  which  all  were 
invited.  The  time  arrived  for  my  starting.  I  set  off  with 
a  chill  upon  me,  but  succeeded  in  reaching  the  place.  The 
camp-ground  was  located  on  the  Wakarusa,  near  Scran- 
ton's  Bridge,  the  scene  of  some  subsequent  thrilling  adven- 


356  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

tures.  Arriving  at  the  place,  I  was  taken  ill.  The  next 
day  I  was  moved  away  in  a  wagon,  and  placed  under  the 
medical  care  of  my  friend,  Dr.  Still,  by  whose  kind  atten- 
tion I  was  so  far  restored  as  to  spend  an  hour  on  the 
ground  just  at  the  close  of  the  meeting.  But  other  minis- 
terial brethren  were  present  in  full  force ;  the  congregations 
were  large ;  the  Word  of  Life  was  faithfully  proclaimed ; 
and  an  impetus  was  given  to  the  general  work  at  this 
beginning  of  camp  meetings  among  the  white  settlers  in 
Kansas. 

The  regular  annual  camp  meeting  was  held,  as  usual, 
among  the  Wyandotts.  They  had  a  good  ground,  well 
improved,  within  a  short  distance  of  their  meeting-house. 
They  love  camp  meetings,  sustain  them  well,  and  enter  into 
the  exercises  with  zeal  and  fervor.  The  season  was  one  of 
interest  for  several  days.  On  Sunday  night  Satan  let  loose 
his  emissaries.  A  troop  of  lawless  fellows,  mounted  upon 
their  ponies,  rushed  furiously  into  the  encampment,  spread- 
ing terror  and  consternation  for  the  moment.  But  they 
were  firmly  met  by  our  brethren,  one  or  two  of  them  were 
knocked  down  and  roughly  handled  ;  whereupon  they  un- 
ceremoniously beat  a  retreat.  The  next  day  a  written  com- 
plaint was  made  to  the  authorities  of  the  Nation,  who 
thereupon  dispatched  a  body  of  men  to  protect  the  encamp- 
ment, among  whom,  in  his  official  capacity  as  sheriff,  was 
one  of  the  assailing  party  of  the  previous  evening. 

Meanwhile  the  excitement  in  the  Territory  had  risen  to  a 
high  pitch.  My  friend  Barber,  from  New  Paris,  Ohio,  had 
been  inhumanly  assassinated,  and  other  acts  of  outrage 
perpetrated.  I  was  constantly  hearing  of  threats  toward 
myself,  but  never  came  in  near  contact  at  the  proper  time 
for  their  execution.  Yet  I  never  made  a  single  appointment 
less,  nor  evaded  one  already  made. 

Owing  to  a  difference  of  opinion  existing  as  to  the 
boundary  between  the  territorial  dependencies  of  Iowa  and 
Missouri  Conferences,  and  to  dissatisfaction  expressed,  the 
Bishops  determined  that,  for  the  year  yet  intervening  be- 


CLOSING   SCENES   OF   CONFEKENCE   YEAR.          357 

fore  the  session  of  the  General  Conference,  Kansas  should 
be  supplied  from  Missouri  Conference,  and  Nebraska  from 
Iowa  Conference ;  and  that  the  necessary  transfers  should 
be  made  to  carry  out  this  plan.  Of  this  I  received  a  writ- 
ten notification.  The  arrangement  rendered  it  necessary  for 
me  to  attend  the  sessions  of  both  Conferences. 

Independence  had  been  appointed  as  the  place  of  holding 
the  session  of  Missouri  Conference.  A  public  meeting  of 
the  citizens  had  been  convened,  and  resolutions  adopted 
warning  them  not  to  assemble  there,  and  impliedly  threat- 
ening violence  if  they  did.  The  little  handful  of  our  people 
there,  unable  of  themselves  to  support  the  Conference,  and 
fearing  results,  wrote  letters  to  St.  Louis,  advising  a  change. 
It  was  accordingly  made ;  and  notice  was  published  that 
the  Conference  would  convene  at  St.  Louis.  So  closed 
the  labors  of  this  eventful  year. 


358  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

CONFERENCE    S  E  S  S  I  0  N  S  —  I  N  C  I  D  E  N  T  S. 

ABOUT  the  middle  of  September,  1855,  I  set  out  for  the 
session  of  the  Iowa  Conference  at  Keokuk,  taking  the  Mis- 
souri River  to  St.  Louis,  and  thence  up  the  Mississippi. 
Our  passage  down  was  upon  the  Polar  Star,  a  first-class 
boat,  with  all  desirable  accommodations.  But  mob  law 
then  prevailed  upon  the  Missouri  River.  All  the  leading 
packets  were  under  the  dominant  influence.  Boats  were 
stopped  at  different  points  on  the  river  by  bodies  of  armed 
men,  examined,  and  large  companies  of  passengers  com- 
pelled to  take  a  down  boat  and  return.  When  permitted 
to  proceed,  a  strict  scrutiny  was  made  into  the  position  and 
sentiments  of  every  passenger  ;  men  entertaining  antislavery 
sentiments,  however  inoffensive,  were  hunted  out,  insulted, 
and  subjected  to  the  most  gross  maltreatment,  to  which — 
being  comparatively  few  in  number  on  the  packets — they 
were  compelled  to  submit,  especially  as  the  officers  and 
crews  were  always  on  the  side  of  the  aggressors.  On  our 
way  down,  an  affair  occurred  which  attracted  considerable 
public  notice  at  the  time,  but  which  I  have  seen  very  erro- 
neously stated  in  the  public  prints. 

The  boat  was  crowded  with  passengers,  among  whom 
were  not  over  five  or  six  known  as  free-state  men.  Of 
this  number  was  a  Rev.  Mr.  Clark,  of  the  denomination 
styling  themselves  True  Wesleyans,  a  New  England  man  of 
middle  years,  manly  appearance,  good  address,  considerable 
general  intelligence,  and  particularly  well  posted  in  the  facts 
of  our  National  history  and  movements  upon  the  question  of 
slavery.  Though  gentlemanly  and  courteous  in  his  deport- 
ment, yet  he  had  a  manifest  penchant  for  debate  upon  his 


A   MINISTER   BEATEN.  359 

favorite  subject,  and  his  controversial  powers  and  knowledge 
of  facts  made  him  quite  an  overmatch  for  his  antagonists. 
This,  so  far  as  I  saw,  was  the  sum  of  his  offending.  But 
this  was  too  much  to  be  borne,  and  the  man  who  could  not 
be  met  in  argument  must  be  silenced  by  brute  force.  He 
was  attacked  and  beaten  by  a  furious  young  Missourian. 
This  occurred  at  an  early  hour  upon  the  lower  deck.  I  did 
not  witness  that  scene,  but  learned  that  he  had  been  attacked 
without  provocation,  further  than  a  simple  expression  of  pri- 
vate opinion.  Soon  after,  the  large  crowd  were  seated  at  the 
breakfast  table,  and  the  two  antagonists  side  by  side.  No 
sooner  did  the  young  ruffian  discover  this,  than,  without  a 
word,  he  rose  from  his  seat,  seized  a  chair,  and  violently  re- 
newed the  attack,  beating  Mr.  C.  on  the  head,  breaking  the 
chair  to  pieces,  and  mangling  him  in  a  most  shocking  man- 
ner, while  the  crowd,  springing  to  their  feet  and  surrounding 
them,  with  oaths  cried  out,  "  Kill  him  !  kill  him  !"  Resist- 
ance on  his  own  part,  or  aid  from  his  few  friends,  was  vain 
with  the  fearful  odds  against  him.  The  boat  officers  sus- 
tained the  assault,  stopped  the  boat,  put  him  out,  and  left 
him  bleeding  and  mangled  on  the  shore,  in  the  heart  of  the 
State,  to  make  his  way  down  as  he  could.  How,  in  his 
plight,  he  accounted  for  his  condition  and  escaped  further 
vengeance  on  land,  I  never  learned,  but  subsequent  notices 
announced  his  arrival  at  his  home  in  Maine.  The  young 
furioso  remained  on  board  and  was  honored  as  a  hero. 

Subsequently,  while  ascending  the  Mississippi,  I  found 
on  board  a  gentleman  who  had  witnessed  the  scene  on  the 
Polar  Star.  He  stated  that  a  regular  vote  had  been  taken 
and  carried  to  put  all  the  free-state  men  ashore,  myself,  of 
course,  among  them.  Among  the  ruffian  gang  was  a  certain 
Kansas  official,  sometimes  very 'turbulent,  but  with  whom 
personally  I  was  on  friendly  terms.  I  had  promised  to 
"  take  him  down  sober,"  if  he  would  put  himself  under  my 
charge.  But  the  ingrate  turned  against  his  pro  tern,  guard- 
ian and  gave  his  vote  for  the  measure.  Of  all  these  prepa- 
rations I  knew  nothing  at  the  time,  but  moved  among  them 


360  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

as  before,  and,  though  well  known  in  my  position  and  sen- 
timents, suffered  no  personal  interruption.  The  threat  was 
unexecuted. 

During  this  excitement  I  made  repeated  trips  up  and 
down  the  Missouri ;  at  times  I  met  with  slights  and  innu- 
endos  which  I  might  have  resented,  but  chose  to  pass  un- 
noticed. No  direct  insult  or  violence  was  ever  offered  me. 

The  Conference  session  at  Keokuk  passed  agreeably  with 
the  brethren  of  Iowa  Conference.  My  year's  residence  in 
Kansas  had  been  attended  with  great  domestic  inconven- 
ience and  heavy  pecuniary  expenditures,  growing  out  of  our 
disappointment  in  not  finding  a  home  on  mission  premises, 
as  already  referred  to.  I  had,  in  mind,  fallen  back  on  my 
original  purpose  of  making  a  home  further  north.  Arrange- 
ments were  already  out  contemplating  this  change,  and  some 
of  the  older  members  of  my  household  preceded  me  in  a 
removal.  The  enlargement  of  our  work  had  been  such  that 
it  was  found  necessary  to  divide  my  district  into  three,  two 
in  Kansas  and  one  in  Nebraska.  With  my  own  concur- 
rence, I  was  appointed  to  Nebraska  district,  and,  to  meet 
the  supposed  requirement  of  the  boundary  clause  of  Disci- 
pline and  satisfy  the  minds  of  brethren,  I  received  a  tempo- 
rary transfer  to  Iowa  Conference,  and,  with  the  other  Ne- 
braska preachers,  took  my  appointment  from  that  Confer- 
ence. But  three  names  appear  upon  the  Minutes  of  that  yea^ 
as  connected  with  the  work  in  Nebraska  Territory.  The 
remainder,  for  the  want  of  men,  were  left  "to  be  supplied." 

An  interval  followed  before  the  session  of  the  Missouri 
Conference  at  St.  Louis.  This  was  improved  by  Bishop 
Simpson  and  myself  in  visiting  that  old  site  of  Mormon 
superstition,  the  city  of  Nauvoo.  The  ruins  of  their  mag- 
nificent temple,  and  the  large  number  of  once  tasteful  but 
now  dilapidated  buildings,  spread  out  with  regularity  over 
the  vast  area  of  the  city,  bore  witness  to  the  powerful  energy 
of  fanatical  and  misguided  minds  under  the  direction  of 
unprincipled  and  designing  leaders.  Homes  had  been  for- 
saken, domestic  comfort  surrendered,  personal  virtue  sacri- 


REV.   J.  L.  CONKLIN.  361 

ficed,  and  worldly  treasure  poured  out  at  the  shrine  of  im- 
piety. Private  ambition  had  triumphed  over  a  credulous, 
unthinking  multitude,  and  lawless  libertinism  had  reigned 
rampant.  Still  this  people  remain,  an  unsolved  enigma  in 
the  history  of  man.  A  pleasant  visit  also  was  made  to 
Quincy,  Illinois. 

Some  time  before  the  session  we  reached  St.  Louis,  where 
we  found  Bishop  Janes  awaiting  Bishop  S.,  and  a  personal 
consultation  was  had  upon  border  matters.  My  home  in 
the  city  was  with  my  friend  REV.  JOHN  L.  CONKLIN,  for  sev- 
eral years  editor  of  the  Central  Christian  Advocate,  and 
subsequently  in  the  work  of  regular  itinerancy.  Brother 
C.  was  born  and  raised  in  the  city  of  New  York,  a  pure- 
minded,  honorable  Christian  man,  a  close  thinker  and  vig- 
orous writer,  deeply  devoted  to  the  cause  of  religion,  and 
especially  the  work  of  border  Methodism,  but  of  frail  phys- 
ical constitution.  He  fell  at  life's  meridian,  "finishing  his 
course  with  joy." 

Owing  to  the  change  made  in  the  place  of  our  Conference 
session,  the  attendance  at  St.  Louis  was  small.  But  a  single 
preacher  besides  myself  was  present  from  the  Territories. 
Two  districts  were  formed  in  Kansas.  L.  B.  Dennis  was 
appointed  presiding  elder  of  North  Kansas  district,  and 
Abraham  Still  of  South  Kansas.  Our  ministerial  force  in 
Nebraska  was  strengthened  by  one  transfer  and  one  received 
on  trial.  The  Missouri  Conference  concurred  with  Iowa  in 
resolutions  requesting  the  General  Conference  to  form  a 
new  Annual  Conference  comprising  the  Territories  of  Kan- 
sas and  Nebraska.  The  town  of  Lawrence,  in  Kansas,  was 
fixed  as  the  place  of  the  first  session. 

Conference  over,  I  set  out  for  the  Territories,  being  still 
favored  with  the  company  of  Bishop  Simpson,  on  his  way 
to  the  session  of  Arkansas  Conference  in  Northern  Texas. 
The  Missouri  River  being  low,  we  took  the  Pacific  Railroad 
to  Herman,  and  thence  traveled  by  stage  to  Jefferson  City. 
Our  company  was  cheerful  and  agreeable.  The  moonlight 
nights  were  enlivened  by  walks  for  recreation  and  an  occa- 

31 


362  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

sional  foot-race  of  the  passengers.  To  the  Bishop's  pedes- 
trianism  I  was  compelled  to  "  knock  under."  At  Jefferson 
City  we  separated,  and  the  Bishop  took  his  course  south, 
being  fully  posted,  according  to  ray  ability,  in  "Arkansas 
traveling,"  and  furnished  with  an  outfit  laid  in  under  my 
inspection  before  leaving  St.  Louis.  Solitarily,  I  made  my 
way  homeward  by  stage  via  Booneville,  Lexington,  and 
Independence. 

Another  removal  was  now  to  be  made.  Two  wagons 
and  teams  were  rigged,  which,  with  my  buggy,  afforded  the 
needed  facilities  for  transportation.  The  old  "moving 
tent"  was  overhauled  and  refitted.  Surplus  or  tin  trans- 
portable property  accumulated  during  the  year  was  sold  or 
given  away,  the  establishment  at  Wyandott  was  broken  up, 
and  late  in  October  found  us  again  on  the  road. 

Our  journey  afforded  little  of  incident  beyond  the  upset- 
ting of  a  wagon  and  rolling  out  a  load  of  movables  and 
sundry  juveniles  into  a  muddy  branch,  with  divers  other 
casualties  such  as  a  novice  might  call  "adventures,"  but  an 
old  frontier's-man  has  learned  to  regard  as  every-day  occur- 
rences. There  being  no  leading  road  up  the  Missouri  on  the 
Territorial  side,  we  crossed  at  Weston  as  usual,  and  trav- 
eled up  through  St.  Joseph  and  the  border  counties  till  we 
entered  the  south-western  corner  of  Iowa. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  when  I  deemed  that  duty  re- 
quired me  to  provide  a  more  permanent  home  for  my  large 
household,  after  the  many  thousands  of  miles  of  itinerant 
removals,  where  declining  years  and  growing  infirmities 
might  find  some  relief,  and  where  youth  and  tender  age 
might  enjoy  the  benefit  of  maternal  care.  The  Territorial 
settlements  as  yet  afforded  none  of  the  desired  facilities. 
The  lands  were  not  in  market,  all  the  settlers  holding  by 
the  precarious  "claim"  title,  and  the  entire  aspect  was  un- 
friendly to  the  settlement  of  a  household  composed  as  mine 
was.  The  opposite  section  in  Iowa,  known  as  the  "  West- 
ern Slope,"  had  been  settled  some  years,  and  was  thought 
to  possess  some  advantages. 


HOME  ON  THE   "  WESTERN  SLOPE."  363 

Here  I  determined  to  pitch  my  tent,  and  from  this  point 
to  go  in  and  out  to  my  Territorial  work,  encountering,  my- 
self, whatever  might  follow  of  absence,  exposure,  and  priva- 
tion, but  intending,  by  the  permission  of  Providence,  thence- 
forth to  exempt  my  less  competent  and  dependent  ones  from 
further  participation  in  my  itinerant  wanderings.  A  retired 
spot  of  grove  and  prairie  was  selected  and  obtained  upon 
the  bold  bluffs  of  Missouri  River,  near  the  village  of  Glen- 
wood,  twenty  miles  south  of  Council  Bluffs,  and  ten  miles 
east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Platte.  Lumber  and  other 
building  materials  were  shipped  from  Cincinnati,  a  distance 
of  two  thousand  miles.  Intervals  at  home  were  employed 
in  superintending  improvements,  and,  according  to  ability, 
arrangements  were  made  for  domestic  comfort.  That  spot 
is  still  occupied,  though  with  a  diminished  household,  and 
from  an  apartment  there,  after  the  vicissitudes  of  added 
years,  I  look  back  and  pen  the  footprints  of  the  past,  so 
deeply  written  upon  the  pages  of  memory. 


364  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

FIRST    YEAR    IN    NEBRASKA. 

THE  ides  of  December,  1855,  found  my  family  at  their 
Glenwood  home,  on  the  Western  slope  of  Iowa,  with  tem- 
porary adjustments  for  approaching  Winter,  and  myself  in 
the  Territory,  just  entering  upon  the  labors  of  Nebraska 
district. 

Henceforward  these  chapters  will  assume  a  different  form. 
The  history  of  Kansas  Territory  will  be  pursued  no  further, 
except  in  incidental  references.  It  is  already  before  the 
world  in  all  its  bloody  atrocity ;  but  there  is  an  unwritten 
history  which  will  not  be  fully  revealed  till  God  shall  right 
up  the  nations  of  earth.  Nor  will  the  details  of  travel  and 
labor,  even  in  my  own  field,  be  further  presented.  Enough 
has  been  given  to  furnish  an  idea  of  missionary  life  and  inci- 
dent on  the  frontier ;  and  the  details  of  the  past  may  be 
taken  as  samples  of  the  events  of  succeeding  years. 

The  settlements  in  Nebraska  Territory  were  sparse  and 
remote  from  each  other,  forming  an  extended  line  upon 
Missouri  River,  reaching,  excepting  intervals  of  Indian  res- 
ervation, from  the  Kansas  line  to  the  region  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Great  Sioux,  with  some  settlers  as  far  up  as 
the  Niobrarah  or  Running  Water,  a  distance  of  some  three 
hundred  miles,  by  the  course  of  the  river,  facing  against  a 
large  section  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  all  the  western  front 
of  Iowa,  and  a  portion  of  Western  Minnesota,  known  as 
Dacotah  Territory.  Added  to  these  were  strings  of  settle- 
ments upon  the  tributary  streams.  Great  and  Little  Ne- 
maha,  Weeping  Water,  Great  Platte,  Elkhorn,  and  soon 
after  Loup  Fork  and  Wood  River,  each  having  its  line  of 
cabins  and  squatters  extending  back  from  fifty  to  one  hund- 


SEVERITY  OF  WINTER.  365 

red  and  fifty  miles  interior.  These  were  to  be  visited  and 
cared  for,  not  always  in  regular  quarterly  rotation,  but  as 
ability  and  circumstances  allowed. 

The  Winter  was  one  of  intense  severity.  The  winds  that 
sweep  with  such  fury  over  those  vast  plains,  unbroken  by  a 
single  forest  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  passed,  much  of 
that  season,  over  fields  of  ice  and  snow,  and  reached  the  ill- 
provided  settlers  chilled  by  an  atmosphere  twenty  degrees, 
or  more,  below  zero.  Labor  was  suspended.  Traveling 
was  attended,  not  merely  with  intense  suffering,  but  with 
positive  hazard  of  life.  Cattle  were  frozen  to  death  in 
large  numbers,  and  not  a  few  human  lives  were  sacrificed, 
sometimes  in  the  effort  to  procure  from  the  river  settlements 
food  for  the  suffering  families  in  the  interior. 

Intervals  at  home  were  seasons  of  labor  and  exposure. 
A  large  proportion  of  the  fuel  consumed  in  my  own  house 
was  cut  by  myself,  and  hauled  a  distance  of  three  miles  over 
a  bleak  prairie,  from  a  fear  that  my  sons  would  perish  in 
the  attempt,  actual  trial  having  demonstrated  that  my  own 
system  resisted  the  effects  of  cold  better  than  those  of  per- 
sons who  were  younger  and  less  used  to  exposure.  The 
ensuing  Winter  was  much  of  the  same  character. 

Some  affecting  instances  of  the  loss  of  life  by  freezing 
occurred.  A  man  and  his  son,  who  had  forced  their  way, 
with  a  load  of  provisions,  for  thirty  miles  through  cold  and 
snow,  perished  within  one  mile  of  home.  I  often  visited 
the  bereaved  and  helpless  widow -and  orphans.  Another 
case,  not  less  sad,  I  personally  witnessed.  A  father  and 
son,  named  Poe,  set  out  on  foot  from  the  neighborhood  of 
Nebraska  City  in  search  of  "  claims  ;"  the  father  aged  but 
robust,  the  son  a  lad  of  fifteen.  Some  days  were  spent  in 
the  pursuit,  and  they  were  overtaken  in  a  snow-storm. 
Days  and  nights  were  spent  without  fire.  Refuge  was 
taken  in  a  vacated  cabin,  where  some  abandoned  bedding 
was  found.  Boots  were  cut  from  the  frozen  limbs,  and 
bandages  of  strips  torn  from  the  bed-clothing  were  applied. 
Unable  to  walk,  an  attempt  was  made  to  crawl  away,  but 


366  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

strength  failed,  and  they  returned  to  the  cabin.  The  father 
folded  the  son  in  his  arms,  wrapped  the  scanty  clothing 
around  them,  and  lay  down  to  die.  At  that  moment  a  man 
appeared,  attracted  by  the  noise ;  help  was  obtained,  and 
they  were  removed.  The  son  soon  died.  I  saw  the  father 
in  extreme  agony,  with  some  of  his  limbs  amputated,  and 
expecting  still  further  dismemberment.  But  death  came  to 
his  relief.  The  morning  following  my  visit  I  was  sent  for 
to  preach  his  funeral.  In  all  his  suffering  he  expressed 
Christian  peace  and  confidence  in  God. 

In  the  Spring  of  1856  I  made  a  trip  East,  as  far  as  Cin- 
cinnati ;  attended,  for  a  few  days,  the  General  Conference 
then  sitting  at  Indianapolis;  had  an  interview  with  the  Bish- 
ops in  relation  to  frontier  interests  ;  gave  the  needful  atten- 
tion to  the  subject  of  erecting  our  Territorial  Conference, 
and  returned  home.  Our  return  passage  was  fortunate  and 
pleasant.  Our  steamer  was  making  her  first  trip  from  Cin- 
cinnati, and  had  not  been  brought  under  "  ruffian  rule." 
Her  passengers  were  "all  right."  Religious  services  were 
held  ;  social  intercourse  enjoyed ;  and  a  valuable  accession 
was  made  to  the  moral  and  religious  society  of  Nebraska 
Territory. 

Not  long  after  Conference  I  was  notified  of  the  erection 
of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  Conference  ;  also  of  my  own  ap- 
pointment as  a  member  of  the  General  Mission  Committee 
for  the  ensuing  four  years,  to  represent  all  the  Conferences 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  except  those  on  the  Pacific.  Two 
years  had  not  passed,  since,  single-handed  and  alone,  I  had 
entered  this  field.  Now  there  were  three  districts,  and  some 
twenty  fields  of  labor.  There  were  then  within  our  bounds 
twelve  members  of  Conference,  all  ordained  elders.  The 
remaining  preachers  were  on  trial. 

Much  of  the  emigration  to  Kansas  during  this  year 
passed  through  Iowa  and  Nebraska,  entering  Kansas  on 
the  North,  the  passage  up  the  Missouri  being  still  obstructed. 
Several  large  bodies  passed  through,  known  as  "Lane's 
men,"  and  encamped  a  longer  or  shorter  time  in  Nebraska. 


NORTHERN  ROUTE   TO   KANSAS.  367 

I  generally  visited  their  camps,  preaching  and  distributing 
books  and  tracts  as  opportunity  served.  In  one  of  these 
companies  was  the  ill-fated  Captain  Chambray,  a  young 
attorney,  my  personal  acquaintance,  from  Richmond,  In- 
diana, who  fell  soon  after  entering  Kansas.  The  mass  of 
these  emigrants  seemed  to  be  men  of  the  right  stamp,  moral, 
brave,  and  lovers  of  freedom.  Time,  however,  soon  proved 
that  among  these  were  some  who  were  mere  marauders  ; 
entering  under  the  flag  of  freedom,  but  for  purposes  of 
rapine  and  plunder. 

During  the  course  of  the  year,  we  were  enabled  to  fill 
nearly  or  quite  all  the  vacancies  in  our  work.  Two  camp 
meetings  were  held  ;  one  in  the  vicinity  of  Rock  Bluff, 
which  was  largely  attended,  and  resulted  in  good  ;  another 
near  Nebraska  City,  with  smaller  attendance,  but  also  a 
season  of  interest.  At  the  latter  were  present  several  Kan- 
sas refugees,  driven  away  by  the  violence  of  the  times. 

The  time  drew  near  for  the  first  assembling  of  our  new 
Conference.  It  was  to  convene  in  Kansas.  Great  excite- 
ment prevailed  there.  Many  apprehensions  were  entertained 
by  friends  as  to  the  safety  of  a  journey  through  that  agitated 
Territory,  in  those  perilous  times.  One  preacher,  from 
Nebraska  district,  went  down  by  water ;  none  by  land 
except  myself.  It  had  been  in  my  mind  to  go  down  with  a 
company  of  emigrants ;  but  not  being  ready,  I  was  disap- 
pointed. Obtaining  a  volunteer  traveling  companion  by 
furnishing  him  a  seat  and  paying  his  expenses,  I  set  put 
fully  equipped,  passing  down  through  Nebraska  and  enter- 
ing Kansas  by  "  Lane's  route."  I  soon  learned  that  the 
large  company  to  which  I  had  thought  of  attaching  myself 
had  been  captured  by  the  United  States  troops  on  the  line, 
and  carried  down  as  prisoners  to  Topeka.  Finding  another 
company  encamped  near  the  line,  I  made  arrangements  to 
join  them,  but,  on  further  observation  of  their  habits, 
preferred  to  travel  without  them. 

Entering  Kansas  Territory  with  my  single  escort,  we  soon 
came  to  the  place  where  the  United  States  troops  were 


368  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

stationed.  We  approached  the  line  not  knowing  whether 
we  should  be  arrested  or  suffered  to  proceed.  We  were 
hailed  by  the  sentry,  and  came  to  a  halt.  The  officer  of  the 
guard  was  called ;  but  he  returned  no  answer,  whether 
drunk  or  asleep  I  know  not.  The  guard  cursed  him  and 
bade  us  go  on. 

As  we  traveled  South  we  passed  several  temporary  for- 
tifications, thrown  up  for  defense  by  emigrant  parties.  By 
noon,  on  Saturday,  we  reached  the  Pottawatamie  Reserve, 
but  could  proceed  no  further,  my  horse  having  been  badly 
injured  in  leaping  a  ravine.  On  Sabbath  morning  we  ar- 
rived at  Topeka,  and  found  a  quarterly  meeting  in  progress. 
Resting  for  a  day  or  two  among  friends,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Tecumseh,  we  pursued  our  way.  Learning  that  the 
trial  of  the  "free-state  prisoners,"  about  one  hundred  in 
number,  was  in  progress  at  Lecompton,  the  appointed  seat 
of  government,  we  resolved  to  visit  the  place  and  see  some- 
thing of  the  proceedings.  Accordingly,  we  turned  aside 
from  our  direct  route,  and  made  our  way  down  to  the  far- 
famed  capital ;  a  little,  ill-situated,  out-of-the-way  place, 
with  a  group  of  unsightly,  temporary  buildings,  and  a 
floating,  street  population,  with  all  the  indications  of  dissi- 
pation and  vice. 

Quarters  being  taken  at  the  hotel,  I  started  out  to  see  the 
"  lions "  of  the  place.  Some  distance  below,  upon  the 
street,  I  saw  a  house  surrounded  by  men,  and,  apparently,  a 
common  center  of  attraction.  Supposing  this  to  be  the 
place  of  holding  the  court,  I  bent  my  steps  thither.  Ad- 
A^ancing  toward  the  door,  I  was  abruptly  stopped  by  an 
armed  man,  and  forbidden  to  enter.  I  persisted,  claiming 
the  right,  as  an  American  citizen,  to  enter  the  halls  of  jus- 
tice, but  was  still  firmly  repelled.  The  guard,  at  length, 
pointed  me  to  Col.  Titus,  the  officer  in  charge,  by  whose 
leave  I  might  enter.  Approaching  the  gallant  Colonel, 
with  his  hand  yet  in  a  sling  from  a  wound  received  in  the 
recent  fight,  I  inquired  if  I  could  not  enter.  "No,"  said 
he,  "not  unless  you  are  counsel  for  some  of  the  prisoners 


UNITED   STATES  COURT.  369 

or  a  relative."  What  was  my  surprise,  in  explanation,  to 
find  that  I  had  mistaken  the  prison  for  the  court-room  ! 
Here  were  near  one  hundred  American  citizens,  confined  in 
a  foul  hole,  surrounded  by  armed  men,  awaiting  the  "glori- 
ous uncertainty"  of  Kansas  law.  The  Colonel  courteously 
pointed  me  to  the  court-room,  and  I  turned  my  steps  in  that 
direction. 

Arrived  at  the  place,  I  found  a  filthy  little  shanty,  entered 
it  and  seated  myself.  Here,  in  grave  dignity,  sat  the  august 
representative  of  the  Federal  power,  whose  name  gained  a 
brief  immortality  by  its  connection  with  this  place,  and  its 
far-famed  Constitution.  A  haggard-looking  specimen  of 
humanity  was  thumbing  the  volumes  of  a  law  library, 
perched  upon  some  rude  shelves.  A  few  rugged  lookers-on 
occupied  the  seats,  whether  as  jurors  or  spectators  I  could 
not  determine.  His  honor,  now  and  then,  passed  a  familiar 
word  with  them,  and  at  length  lit  his  pipe  and  deliberately 
walked  out,  leaving  the  court  to  take  care  of  itself.  Not  a 
word  did  I  hear  that  savored  of  legal  proceeding. 

Satisfied  with  this  exhibition  of  my  country's  glory,  I 
again  started.  The  remains  of  houses,  in  some  of  which  I 
had,  in  former  times,  been  a  guest,  now  burned  to  the 
ground,  met  my  eye ;  the  late  inhabitants  being  in  tents 
near  the  site  of  their  consumed  dwellings ;  sad  exemplifica- 
tion of  the  ruthless  spirit  of  violence  that  had  run  riot  in 
the  land. 

Arriving  at  Lawrence,  I  sought  the  residence  of  my 
former  friend,  Rev.  L.  B.  Dennis,  the  presiding  elder  of  the 
district,  passed  the  night  with  himself  and  family,  and 
talked  over  the  strange  scenes  of  the  past.  I  had  the 
pleasure  to  present  to  him  the  handsome  donation  of  fifty 
dollars,  contributed  by  a  few  friends  about  me,  as  a  testi- 
monial of  their  regard  for  his  faithful  and  fearless  services 
in  the  late  trying  emergency.  It  was  gratefully  accepted, 
but  afterward  generously  thrown  into  a  common  fund, 
contributed  elsewhere,  for  the  relief  of  suffering  members 
of  the  Conference. 


370  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

Lawrence  still  presented  the  aspect  of  war.  Demolished 
buildings,  fortifications,  the  United  States  troops  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  Territorial  militia  on  the  other,  were  the  sur- 
roundings of  the  scene.  The  Conference  sessions  were  to 
be  held  in  a  large  cloth  tent,  which  had  been  occupied  for 
the  purpose  of  religious  worship.  Bishop  Baker  was  to 
preside,  and  in  due  time  arrived,  having  been  conducted  by 
land  across  the  State  of  Missouri  by  a  competent  escort. 
The  preachers,  too,  were  on  hand  in  proper  season.  But 
when,  before,  did  a  Methodist  Conference  assemble,  bear- 
ing arms !  I  can  not  say  to  what  extent.  But  that  some 
were  armed  I  do  know. 

At  the  proper  hour,  on  the  23d  day  of  October,  1856,  the 
first  session  of  the  Kansas  and  Nebraska  Conference  was 
opened.  The  number  of  members  of  Conference  was  found 
to  be  increased,  by  transfers,  to  fifteen.  Bishop  Baker  pre- 
sided with  his  usual  self-possession.  The  session  was  har- 
monious and  pleasant.  Brethren  felt  themselves  cemented 
together  by  common  sufferings  and  common  perils,  and 
rejoiced,  after  a  year  of  unparalleled  conflict,  to  meet  again. 
The  religious  exercises  were  attended  with  Divine  unction  ; 
and  weepings  and  rejoicings  were  mingled  together. 

At  this  session  it  was  resolved  to  request  the  Bishops  to 
change  the  time  of  our  annual  session  from  Fall  to  Spring. 
Nebraska  City  was  fixed  as  the  place  of  the  next  session ; 
and  on  Saturday  evening,  after  a  session  of  three  days,  the 
appointments  were  read  out,  and  final  adjournment  had. 
The  preachers  remained  for  the  Sabbath  services ;  and  I 
had  the  melancholy  pleasure  of  preaching  the  funeral  of  my 
former  friend  and  fellow-laborer,  Rev.  John  H.  Dennis,  who, 
during  the  year,  had  triumphantly  passed  to  his  reward. 

Twenty-five  mission-fields,  including  the  districts,  appear 
upon  the  Minutes  of  this  year ;  and  twenty-three  preachers 
received  appointments  from  the  Conference.  The  number 
of  white  members,  including  probationers,  was  one  thou- 
sand, one  hundred  and  thirty-eight;  Indians,  one  hundred 
and  forty-four. 


TRIP   TO   NEW  YORK.  371 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

SECOND  TEAR  IN  NEBR  ASK  A  — AD  VE  N  T  U  R  ES. 

THE  Conference  session  over,  we  took  our  course  for  the 
Missouri  River  at  Leavenworth.  On  the  way  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  making  quite  a  number  of  the  preachers  my 
guests*  at  the  noon  hour.  They,  of  course,  were  liberal  in 
their  praises  of  my  hot  coffee  and  other  camp  fare. 

Passing  the  scenes  of  some  of  the  late  horrid  murders, 
and  the  graves  of  the  victims,  we  had  from  brethren  of  the 
company  thrilling  statements  of  the  details. 

My  attendance  being  required  in  the  city  of  New  York, 
at  the  session  of  the  General  Mission  Committee,  I  accord- 
ingly, on  reaching  Leavenworth,  sent  my  horse  and  buggy 
home  by  my  traveling  companion,  and  took  a  steamer  for 
St.  Louis ;  thence  by  railroad  to  Cincinnati,  where,  falling 
in  with  Bishop  Morris,  we  made  the  trip  together,  spending 
a  Sabbath  pleasantly  in  Cleveland,  and  laboring  in  the 
churches.  On  the  adjournment  of  the  Committee,  I  hast- 
ened home  via  Chicago,  taking  stage  at  Iowa  City,  travel- 
ing night  and  day,  and  suffering  much  from  the  severe 
cold. 

The  Bishops,  upon  consultation,  determined  to  comply 
with  the  request  of  our  Conference  for  a  Spring  session, 
and  accordingly  arranged  for  a  tour  of  Conferences  in  the 
Spring,  embracing  Arkansas  and  Missouri  also ;  a  change 
that  practically  has  been  matter  of  sore  experience  both  to 
the  Bishops  and  the  Conference.  The  time  fixed  for  our 
session  was  April  16,  1857,  thus  reducing  our  first  Confer- 
ence year  to  six  months. 

Another  Winter  not  less  severe  than  the  preceding  fol- 
lowed ;  the  traveling  being  even  more  difficult,  from  the 


372  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

large  amount  of  snow  lying  in  deep  drifts,  and  with  suc- 
cessive layers  of  incrustation,  so  as,  in  many  places,  to  ren- 
der traveling  absolutely  impracticable,  except  upon  roads 
that  were  kept  constantly  beaten.  My  appointments  were 
attended  with  regularity ;  but  the  severity  of  the  season, 
want  of  suitable  places  of  worship,  and  difficulty  of  trav- 
eling, greatly  hindered  the  preachers  in  the  labors  of  this 
short  Winter  year.  As  in  the  Winter  previous,  many 
persons  perished  by  freezing.  My  journeying  at  this  season 
of  the  year  was  on  horseback.  Once,  with  my  faithful  ani- 
mal, I  was  near  being  cast  away  in  a  snow-drift.  With 
great  difficulty  and  labor  we  extricated  ourselves.  One  of 
the  preachers,  on  hearing  it,  wrote  me,  advising  me  not  to 
venture  thus  ;  saying  that,  much  as  they  desired  my  pres- 
ence and  aid,  they  did  not  wish  it  at  the  hazard  of  life. 

The  Spring  of  1857  was  memorable  for  an  extraordinary 
freshet  upon  the  Upper  Missouri.  The  immense  mass  of 
snow  suddenly  gave  way,  and  the  river  overspread  its  banks 
for  miles,  filling  the  roads,  stopping  ferries,  and,  to  a  great 
extent,  arresting  travel  and  communication.  This  prepared 
the  way  for  a  personal  adventure  never  to  be  forgotten. 
Spending  a  little  season  with  my  family,  just  before  our 
Conference  session,  the  Missouri  River  rose  rapidly,  and, 
ere  I  was  aware,  was  near  its  highest  stage.  It  was  between 
me  and  the  place  of  Conference.  My  Conference  session 
had  never  passed  without  my  attendance ;  and  the  distance 
must  be  overcome,  if  human  exertion  could  accomplish  it. 

With  this  purpose  I  set  out,  intending  to  try  to  reach  an 
elevated  point  on  the  river,  then  surrounded  by  water  for 
miles,  but  from  which  it  was  known  that  a  ferry-flat  was 
employed  in  transporting  some  live  stock.  The  effort  was 
made  on  Friday.  The  regular  hack  from  Glenwood  not 
running  that  day,  I  took  a  place  in  a  wagon  that  on  the 
previous  day  had  passed  out  from  the  point  referred  to,  and 
made  my  way  about  a  mile  through  the  water.  The  inhab- 
itants were  vacating  their  houses  and  fleeing  to  higher  posi- 
tions. Our  progress  was  arrested,  the  waters  had  so  risen 


RAFT  NAVIGATION.  373 

that  the  teamster  could  proceed  no  further.  We  retraced 
our  steps  and  I  returned  to  my  home,  brooding  over  the 
painful  thought  of  absence  from  a  Conference  session.  On 
Saturday  I  made  another  effort,  hopeless  as  it  seemed.  Two 
hacks  set  out  from  Glenwood  filled  with  passengers  eager  to 
cross.  So  soon  as  we  reached  the  bluff  and  saw  the  vast 
expanse  of  water  spread  out  before  us,  the  old  hackman 
said,  "  It  is  useless  to  go  further."  We  urged  him  on  down 
to  the  water's  brink,  but  when  there,  all  saw  that  further 
progress  was  impracticable.  It  was  proposed  to  construct 
a  raft  of  logs  and  endeavor  to  make  our  way  down  the  cur- 
rent of  a  bayou  which  put  in  near  the  ferry.  Of  the  ten 
anxious  passengers  all  declined  the  hazard  save  three,  two 
stalwart  six-footers  and  myself. 

Dismissing  our  hackman  and  comrades,  we  took  a  wagon 
through  the  water  to  a  cabin  occupying  an  elevated  spot  on 
the  brink  of  the  bayou.  Here  we  purchased  two  logs  and 
sufficient  plank,  pinned  the  logs  together  at  a  distance  of 
some  four  feet,  nailed  on  a  deck  of  plank,  and  launched  our 
craft ;  took  dinner,  placed  ourselves  and  baggage  on  board, 
and  deliberately  committed  all  to  the  current.  It  was  a  dis- 
tance of  about  three  miles  to  our  desired  landing,  and  all 
the  way  a  world  of  water.  The  two  juniors  undertook  to 
manage  our  float,  while  I  was  honored  with  the  post  of 
baggage-master.  "  Do  n't  drown  the  old  pioneer,"  shouted 
a  voice  to  the  boys  as  we  passed. 

The  first  half  of  our  voyage  was  through  open  prairie. 
Here  we  were  able  to  keep  our  course  tolerably  well,  but  on 
entering  the  timber  we  soon  encountered  logs  and  heaps  of 
drift-wood.  Attempting  to  pass  a  huge  drift  that  presented 
itself  broadside  in  the  current,  the  treacherous  craft  careened, 
slid  under  the  mass  of  logs  and  disappeared,  leaving  us 
afloat  and  "no  bottom."  The  boys  sprang  upon  the  drift, 
I  remained  in  the  water  till  the  last  article  of  baggage  was 
handed  out,  and  then  they  drew  me  up. 

But  now  what  was  to  be  done  ?  To  retreat  was  impossi- 
ble, and  half  the  distance  was  yet  before  us.  So  on  we 


374  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

went,  bearing  our  baggage,  now  wading,  swimming,  plung- 
ing in  the  cold  water,  the  ice  girdling  the  trees,  through 
fallen  timber  or  long,  entangled  grass  ;  then,  for  a  time,  on 
a  dry  elevated  spot,  where  the  keen  wind  pierced  through 
our  saturated  clothing,  and  chilled  us  even  more  than  when 
in  the  water.  Thus  passed  about  two  hours,  sometimes 
consulting  about  trying  to  return,  and  then  again  urging 
onward.  By  this  time  I  began  to  find  it  difficult  to  speak, 
from  a  cramp  approaching,  I  suppose,  to  lock-jaw.  Men- 
tioning it  to  one  of  the  young  men,  I  found  him  affected  in 
the  same  way.  At  length,  when  almost  exhausted,  we 
espied  through  the  forest  the  buildings  at  the  ferry.  My 
young  companions  now  left  me,  and  urging  their  way,  sent 
a  man  to  my  assistance,  who  met  me  just  as  I  emerged  for 
the  last  time  from  the  waters,  so  enfeebled  that  in  ascending 
a  gentle  slope  of  some  ten  feet  I  fell  twice  to  the  ground. 

O,  how  marvelous  is  the  loving  kindness  of  the  Almighty  ! 
"  His  tender  mercies  are  over  all  his  works."  Often  I  look 
back  upon  the  perils  of  the  past  and  wonder  that  I  still  live. 
Deeply  have  I  felt  in  my  own  case  the  force  of  the  remark 
of  Mr.  Wesley,  "  A  special  Providence  has  been  over  my 
life,  or  I  should  not  have  been  alive  to  this  day."  We  were 
taken  to  the  cabin,  supplied  with  dry  clothing,  warm  drinks, 
and  a  good  fire,  and  kindly  cared  for  in  all  respects.  Our 
clothing,  books,  papers,  bank-bills,  etc.,  were  dried.  The 
night  passed  comfortably.  In  the  morning  I  felt  refreshed, 
crossed  the  river,  hired  a  conveyance,  rode  down  to  Ne- 
braska City,  and  preached  that  night,  my  quarterly  meeting 
being  in  progress,  and  never  felt  any  inconvenience.  Word 
went  back  that  I  was  drowned,  but  when  it  was  ascertained 
that  I  was  actually  alive  and  on  the  other  shore,  the  state- 
ment was  changed,  and  it  was  currently  reported  that  I  had 
"waded  Missouri  River." 

A  few  days  were  spent  in  preparatory  arrangements  for 
the  reception  and  entertainment  of  our  brethren  of  the  Con- 
ference. As  the  day  approached,  they  began  to  arrive  in 
groups  from  remote  fields  and  by  different  routes  from  both 


CONFERENCE  AT  NEBRASKA  CITY.  375 

Territories,  each  company  with  their  tale  of  adventure. 
The  weather  was  cold  and  stormy,  and  one  party  from 
Kansas  had  laid  out  all  the  previous  night  in  the  piercing 
wind  upon  the  bank  of  the  Nemaha,  unable  to  procure  a 
passage.  But  all  were  in  fine  spirits  ;  no  murmuring  or 
complaining  word  was  heard.  The  attendance  was  full,  the 
reception  cordial,  and  the  mutual  perils  and  escapes  of  the 
past  but  rendered  the  fraternal  greeting  the  more  joyous. 
Grateful  prayers  and  praises  went  up  to  God,  and  with  feel- 
ing personal  application  could  all  unite  in  the  sentiment  of 
our  excellent  Conference  hymn  : 

"  And  are  we  yet  alive, 
And  see  each  other's  face?" 

Our  intractable  river  disappointed  us.  On  the  morning 
of  opening  the  session,  Bishop  Ames  was  on  board  a  Mis- 
souri steamer,  hundreds  of  miles  below,  endeavoring  to 
make  his  way  up  against  the  mighty  current.  The  hour 
arrived,  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  adminis- 
tered, the  Conference  was  called  to  order,  a  president  elected, 
and  business  proceeded  in  the  usual  order.  The  work  of 
arranging  the  plan  and  appointing  the  preachers,  as  usual, 
wont  on  at  the  same  time  ;  the  session  was  pleasant,  and  by 
Saturday  evening  all  the  important  business  of  the  Confer- 
ence was  through,  and  the  appointments  were  ready  for  an- 
nouncement. It  was  thought  advisable,  however,  to  defer 
this  till  after  the  Sabbath,  with  the  hope  of  the  arrival  of 
the  Bishop.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  Sabbath  he  arrived, 
preached  in  the  evening,  reviewed  and  approved  the  Confer- 
ence action  and  appointments,  presided  in  a  morning  ses- 
sion, read  the  appointments,  and  the  Conference  adjourned. 

At  this  session  Nebraska  district  was  divided  into  two, 
Omaha  district  above  the  Great  Platte,  and  Nebraska  City 
district  below.  John  M.  Chivington  was  appointed  to  the 
former,  myself  to  the  latter.  A  new  district  also  was 
formed  in  Kansas,  making  five  in  the  Conference.  Forty- 
eight  mission-fields  were  constituted,  including  the  districts, 


376  OUTPOSTS  OF  ZION. 

and  thirty-one  preachers  received  appointments  from,  the 
Conference.  The  remainder  were  left  "to  be  supplied." 
Total  of  members  and  probationers,  one  thousand,  two 
hundred  and  thirty-one.  From  this  time  forward  the  In- 
dian membership  ceases  to  be  reported  separately.  Topeka. 
Kansas,  was  fixed  as  the  place  of  the  ensuing  session. 


IMPROVEMENT  IN  NEBRASKA.         377 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

THIRD  YEAR  IN  N  E  B  R  A  S  K  A— C  0  N  D  I  T  I  ON  OF 
TERRITORY. 

As  the  country  filled  up  and  our  work  enlarged,  my  geo- 
graphical limits  diminished.  First,  I  had  all  of  Kansas 
and  Nebraska  Territories  ;  then  Nebraska  alone ;  now  I 
found  myself  reduced  to  one-half  of  that  Territory.  The 
field  began  to  look  contracted  ;  albeit  to  some,  unused  to 
long  prairie  distances,  it  might  still  have  seemed  to  possess 
ample  dimensions. 

Every  year  witnessed  a  steady  though  not  rapid  growth 
of  population  in  Nebraska,  and,  with  this,  a  correspond- 
ing improvement  of  the  country.  Fine  farms  began  to  be 
seen,  especially  in  the  region  of  the  Platte  and  Nemahas. 
The  cabin  was,  in  some  instances,  giving  way  to  a  more 
commodious  residence,  and  a  general  aspect  of  comfort  be- 
gan to  appear.  Roads  were  established,  and  in  most  of  my 
ordinary  travel  I  was  enabled  to  dispense  with  my  pocket 
compass.  Nor  were  the  sack  of  corn,  the  lunch,  and  the 
coffee-pot  so  indispensable  as  formerly.  Remunerative  crops 
had  been  raised,  and  the  settlers  were  beginning  to  shake 
off  their  dependence  upon  the  States  over  the  river  for  sup- 
plies. Good  brick  church  edifices  had  been  erected  in 
Omaha  and  Nebraska  City,  and  comfortable  houses  of  wor- 
ship were  this  year  put  up  at  several  other  points.  School- 
houses  began  to  appear,  with  all  the  usual  appliances  of 
improved  society. 

A  very  great  drawback,  however,  was  imposed  upon  the 
actual  growth  and  improvement  of  the  country  by  the  wild 
and  reckless  spirit  of  speculation  that  spread  like  a  con- 
tagion all  over  the  West ;  a  mania,  knowing  no  legitimate 

32 


378  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

bounds,  disdaining  all  the  restraints  of  prudence  and  dis- 
'cretion,  overleaping  all  considerations  of  morals  and  in- 
tegrity, and  outraging  every  sentiment  of  honor  and  con- 
science. It  spread  into  all  ranks  from  the  highest  to  the 
lowest.  With,  or  without  capital,  men  plunged  into  the 
vortex.  Even  day-laborers,  after  a  short  time  of  successful 
employment,  caught  the  animus,  disdained  their  vocation, 
doffed  the  character  of  "workies,"  and  stuck  out  from 
some  shanty  a  shingle  as  "Land  Agent,  etc."  And  the 
fui-ther  we  proceed  from  the  heart  toward  the  extremities  of 
the  country,  the  more  did  this  disease  seem  to  prevail.  Ne- 
braska, perhaps,  was  unexcelled  in  speculations  of  this 
kind.  Men  could  be  bought  and  sold  for  a  consideration. 
Even  Legislative  influence  and  votes,  it  was  boldly  affirmed, 
had  their  price  ;  and  public  and  private  integrity  were  madly 
sacrificed  at  the  shrine  of  -J\fammon  ;  and  that  a  false,  un- 
paying  Mammon. 

Land-claims  opened  up  a  large  field  for  the  exercise  of 
this  talent.  But  the  great  game  of  the  time  was  town-build- 
ing. A  few  men  associated ;  laid  a  claim  upon  a  plat  of  va- 
cant prairie  ;  had  a  load  of  stakes  hauled  from  some  grove 
near  or  remote  ;  employed  a  surveyor,  and  run  off  streets 
and  lots,  with  park,  public  square,  college  or  seminary  lots, 
grounds  for  railroad  depot  and  other  public  uses  ;  set  the 
stakes,  gave  sounding  titles  to  the  streets,  and  still  more  so 
to  the  city  itself;  had  the  plat  lithographed;  and  forthwith 
dispatched  a  competent  agent  in  the  direction  of -sunrise  to 
gull  the  orientals  with  "corner  lots."  Speaking  with  a 
sharp  operator,  whose  guest  I  was  for  the  time,  about  a 
particular  branch  of  domestic  economy  essential  to  comfort, 
which  seemed  generally  neglected,  he  said,  "We  have  not 
time  to  attend  to  it — too  busy  making  money."  "  How  do 
you  make  it?"  said  I.  "Dealing  in  lots,"  he  replied. 
"  With  whom  do  you  deal  ?"  I  asked.  "  With  one  an- 
other," was  his  answer.  "But,"  I  inquired,  "upon  whose 
hands  do  the  lots  finally  settle  down  ?"  "  Those  of  Eastern 
purchasers,"  was  the  ultimatum.  Large  amounts,  too,  were 


BANKING — FEDERAL  OFFICE-HOLDERS.  379 

actually  invested  in  building  hotels,  store-houses,  and  private 
residences  by  those  who  were  credulous  enough  to  believe 
that  veritable  cities  were  to  spring  up  all  over  the  country. 
Capital  and  enterprise  were  diverted  from  their  proper  and 
useful  channels,  and  the  actual  improvement  of  the  country 
retarded. 

Quite  a  furor  also  prevailed  on  the  subject  of  banking. 
An  individual  or  a  company,  frequently  non-resident,  ap- 
plied to  the  Territorial  Legislature,  and,  by  some  means, 
fair  or  foul,  obtained  a  charter;  erected  a  shanty  in  some 
obscure  place;  put  out  the  sign  of  "BANK;"  flooded  the 
country  with  their  circulation  ;  stopped  payment ;  retired 
into  dignified  bankruptcy,  and  left  the  bill-holders  to 
"pocket  the  loss."  Such  establishments  were  found  all 
over  the  Territory.  Of  all  the  banking  concerns  in  Ne- 
braska, but  a  single  one  is  no\f  standing. 

The  result  of  all  was  no,t  merely  public  and  private  pecu- 
niary wreck,  but  a  deeply-detrimental  influence  upon  the  in- 
tegrity and  moral  principle  of  the  community.  The  obliga- 
tion of  a  contract  was  lost  sight  of,  the  standard  of  moral 
honesty  lowered,  fraudulent  bankruptcies  became  common, 
oaths  were  trifled  with,  and  the  principles  of  conscience  and 
of  right  ignored.  I  will  not  say  that  this  was  universal. 
Honorable  exceptions  were  found ;  examples  of  probity 
and  integrity.  But  the  prevailing  influence  was  of  a  con- 
trary character ;  and  a  shock  was  sustained  from  which  it 
will  take  a  generation  fully  to  recover. 

Another  unfavorable  influence  ruinously  affecting  the 
morals,  the  growth,  and  the  general  prosperity  of  the  coun- 
try, was  found  in  the  character  of  the  men  appointed  to 
Federal  offices  in  the  Territory.  Among  them  were  men  of 
ability  and  moral  worth ;  men  who  would  have  done  honor 
to  their  positions  in  any  country.  But  too  large  a  share,  as  is 
usual  in  Territorial  appointments,  were  cast-off  politicians, 
reckless  in  principles  and  in  habits,  sent  out  merely  to  be 
provided  for ;  men  whose  example  and  personal  influence 
were  most  destructive,  but  whose  position  gave  them  weight 


380  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

in  community.  Of  this  the  better  class  of  citizens  felt  that 
they  had  cause  to  complain  ;  but  complaints  were  unheeded. 

In  the  midst,  however,  of  all  these  opposing  influences, 
there  was  still  a  leavening  principle  at  work.  There  was 
among  the  hardy  settlers  enough  of  intelligence,  enough  of 
virtue  and  moral  integrity,  enough  of  genuine  piety,  to  pre- 
vent a  decline  in  the  general  prosperity  and  welfare.  Im- 
provement was  staid  and  hindered,  but  not  abandoned. 
Morals  and  religion  had  a  struggle  with  vice ;  but  still  they 
advanced.  Each  succeeding  year  made  its  addition  to  the 
members  of  our  own  religious  communion  ;  other  denomi- 
nations entered  the  field  and  labored  with  success  ;  and  in 
the  midst  of  opposing  influences,  the  work  went  steadily  on. 

Two  good  camp  meetings  were  held  this  year  in  the 
bounds  of  Nebraska  City  district.  The  first  was  in  the 
rear  of  the  Half-Breed  Reservation,  on  the  Great  Nemaha, 
near  to  where  Falls  City  is  now  located.  The  rain  fell  co- 
piously and  continuously.  The  tents  had  no  sufficient  cov- 
ers. I  was  thoroughly  drenched  in  my  bed,  having  no  al- 
ternative. I  bore  it  patiently.  But  there  were  showers  of 
grace  too.  On  Sabbath  the  sun  shone  forth ;  the  Word 
was  preached ;  the  power  of  the  Lord  attended,  and,  before 
the  close  of  the  meeting,  a  large  number,  old  and  young, 
were  brought  into  the  fold  of  Christ.  The  second  was  held, 
as  the  year  previous,  near  to  Rock  Bluffs.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  populous  and  best-improved  sections  of  the  Terri- 
tory. The  attendance  was  large,  and  the  meeting  profit- 
able. 

November  of  this  year  found  me  again  in  the  city  of  New 
York,  at  the  session  of  the  General  Mission  Committee. 
Returning  again  by  the  Northern  route,  I  made  what  I  trust 
may  be  my  last  stage  trip  through  the  State  of  Iowa,  in  the 
Winter  season,  suffering  greatly  again  from  cold  and  ex- 
posure in  traveling  by  night  and  by  day. 

The  Winter  of  1857-8  was  mild  and  pleasant,  in  beauti- 
ful contrast  with  the  two  preceding.  Traveling  was  com- 
fortable, with  few  exceptions,  all  the  season,  and  outdoor 


TKIP   TO  CONFERENCE.  381 

labor  could  be  performed  without  inconvenience.  The 
preachers  were  able  to  pursue  the  work  with  greater  regu- 
larity. Again  I  was  enabled  to  meet  punctually  my  quar- 
terly appointments,  besides  doing  a  large  amount  of  extra 
service. 

Early  in  April  we  were  on  our  way  to  the  session  of  our 
Annual  Conference  at  Topeka,  Kansas.  The  distance  from 
my  residence  was  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles.  Our 
company  from  Nebraska,  numbering  about  fifteen,  concen- 
trated on  Saturday,  the  10th,  at  Falls  City,  near  the  Kansas 
line,  where  I  was  holding  a  quarterly  meeting.  The  two 
days  of  religious  service  passed  with  much  interest.  The 
weather  was  stormy  ;  and  the  Great  Nemaha  was  swollen 
beyond  crossing.  We  had  intended  to  take  the  "Lane 
route  "  directly  through,  but  were  forced  into  another  course. 
Fearing  a  confusion  of  counsels,  it  was  proposed,  at  our 
Sabbath  afternoon  meeting,  to  appoint  competent  conduct- 
ors, who  should  make  all  arrangements,  select  a  route,  give 
directions,  and  pilot  the  company  through.  Two  seniors, 
acquainted  with  the  country,  were  selected.  Orders  were 
immediately  given  to  all  to  appear  early  on  Monday  morn- 
ing at  a  designated  point,  furnished,  each,  with  one  day's 
provisions. 

The  morning  came,  cold,  snowy,  and  forbidding ;  but  all 
were  on  hand.  My  buggy  was  left  behind,  and  my  faithful 
steed  again  converted  into  a  saddle-horse,  in  common  with 
my  brethren.  Passing  down  the  Nemaha  to  near  its  mouth, 
we  crossed  at  Roy's  Ferry.  Thence  angling  across  the 
country,  we,  on  the  second  day,  entered  the  Lane  road. 

The  appearance  of  such  a  company  of  "mounted  rang- 
ers," in  this  land  of  excitements,  often  led  to  the  question, 
"  What 's  up  ?"  To  all  we  were  able  to  return  "  an  answer 
of  peace."  Rain,  high  waters,  and  rough  fare,  did  not 
depress  the  spirits  nor  lessen  the  appetite.  At  nightfall, 
we  distributed  ourselves  over  sufficient  space  to  find  shelter 
and  edibles,  and  in  the  morning  reassembled.  The  after- 
noon of  the  14th  found  us  on  the  bank  of  Kansas  River, 


382  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

opposite  Topeka.  But  the  river  was  from  bank  to  bank, 
the  ferry-boat  gone,  and  the  bridge  was  not  finished.  Put- 
ting our  horses  temporarily  into  the  care  of  some  Indians, 
by  the  help  of  a  skiff,  and  the  part-way  bridge,  we  reached 
the  other  shore,  and  delivered  our  company  safely  into 
the  hands  of  the  committee  of  reception. 

On  arriving,  we  found  that  instead  of  Bishop  Simpson, 
who  was  confined  by  illness,  Bishop  Janes  was  in  attend- 
ance, with  whom  I  was  to  have  a  home  at  the  house  of 

Rev.  Mr. ,  the  Episcopal  minister.  In  this  place,  it 

may  be  remembered  I  had  preached  for  the  first  time,  three 
years  before,  and  lodged  in  a  lone  shanty. 

The  session  was  opened  by  Bishop  Janes,  on  Thursday 
the  15th.  With  increasing  numbers,  there  was  found  to  be 
an  increased  amount  of  business.  The  session  occupied 
four  days,  and  was  characterized  by  real  earnestness  and 
close  application  to  business.  Omaha,  Nebraska,  was  fixed 
as  the  place  of  the  next  annual  session. 

A  large  number  of  transfers  was  received  and  a  class  of 
sixteen  was  admitted  on  trial.  A  fourth  district  was  formed 
in  Kansas,  making  six  in  the  Conference.  Fifty-seven 
fields  of  labor  appear  upon  the  Minutes  with  forty-seven 
preachers  appointed  from  the  Conference.  Number  in 
society,  including  probationers,  two  thousand,  six  hundred 
and  sixty  nine,  being  more  than  double  the  number  reported 
the  year  previous.  Kansas  had  enjoyed  a  year  of  peace  ; 
and  both  Territories  were  advancing  in  population.  A 
change  was  made  in  the  district  appointments  by  which  I 
was  removed  to  Omaha  district,  the  country  below  the 
Platte  having  been  embraced  in  my  charge  for  four  years. 

It  might  earlier  have  been  stated,  that  the  Conference 
had,  at  a  previous  session,  adopted  Baker  University,  at 
Baldwin,  Kansas,  and  Bluemont  College,  at  Manhattan,  in 
the  same  Territory,  as  institutions  of  learning,  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  Both  insti- 
tutions have  opened  their  doors  with  flattering  prospects  of 
success. 


OMAHA   DISTRICT.  383 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

FOUKTH    YEAR    IN    NEBRASKA. 

THE  closing  year  of  my  district  labors  in  Nebraska  was 
now  entered  upon.  My  field,  for  this  year,  embraced  a 
greater  extent  of  territory,  and  was  more  laborious  than 
that  of  the  preceding.  The  settlements  were  newer  and 
more  sparse  ;  the  settlers  more  ill  provided  for,  and  the 
roads  in  worse  condition.  In  addition  to  this,  the  difference 
in  latitude  added  not  a  little  to  the  frequency  and  severity 
of  the  Winter  storms. 

Omaha  district  embraced  all  the  settlements  north  of  the 
Great  Platte  River,  extending  in  a  line  up  the  Missouri 
River,  near  two  hundred  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  Running 
Water ;  and  up  the  Platte  and  its  tributaries,  Elkhorn  and 
Loup  Fork,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles.  Within  the 
district  were  eight  mission-fields,  to  five  of  which  preachers 
were  appointed  from  the  Conference,  leaving  three  "  to  be 
supplied."  One  supply  only  was  obtained  ;  two  missions 
were  consolidated  under  the  charge  of  one  man  ;  and  one 
field,  upon  the  extreme  north,  remained  unfilled  during  the 
year. 

The  Spring  and  early  Summer  of  1858  were  charac- 
terized by  extraordinary  rains  in  this  locality,  not  materially 
affecting  Missouri  River,  but  swelling  the  smaller  tributaries, 
time  after  time,  to  an  unprecedented  hight,  sweeping  away 
bridges,  and  rendering  traveling  almost  impracticable.  A 
Government  thoroughfare,  under  the  name  of  a  military 
road,  had  been  constructed  up  the  Missouri  for  some  hund- 
reds of  miles^  Near  a  score  of  bridges  had  been  erected 
over  the  small  but  deep-channeled  streams.  Nearly  every 
one,  in  the  course  of  the  season,  was  carried  away,  leaving 


384  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

streams  almost,  or  quite,  impassable — a  way  embarrassing 
state  of  affairs. 

My  first  trip  to  this  upper  region  occupied  a  portion  of 
May  and  June.  Most  of  the  bridges  had  already  gone. ;  the 
direct  road  had  to  be  abandoned,  and  a  way  sought  over 
the  bluffs.  About  one  hundred  miles  up,  among  the  Black- 
Bird  Hills,  is  the  Omaha  Reserve,  fronting  some  thirty 
miles  upon  the  river,  through  which  we  must  pass  to  the 
upper  settlements.  In  the  forks  of  Black-Bird  Creek  is  the 
Omaha  village,  heretofore  described.  The  two  bridges  were 
gone,  and  both  streams  were  swollen,  steep-banked,  miry, 
and  dangerous  to  pass.  Arrived  at  the  first,  I  found  a 
group  of  lazy,  lounging  Indians,  sunning  themselves  on 
the  opposite  shore,  and  awaiting  the  approach  of  some 
luckless  traveler.  By  signs  and  words  I  inquired  where  I 
should  cross.  The  wily  savages  pointed  me  to  a  place  into 
which  they  tried  to  induce  me  to  drive ;  expecting,  prob- 
ably, to  see  some  sport,  and  to  realize  a  fee  for  helping  me 
out  of  my  difficulty.  Being  a  little  suspicious,  I  waited  for 
a  time.  At  length  an  honest-looking  fellow  came  along, 
and  pointed  me  the  way  to  a  place  of  less  difficulty,  thereby 
depriving  them  of  the  sport  and  profits,  and  saving  me 
from  difficulty  and  danger. 

It  being  late  in  the  afternoon  when  I  got  over  these 
streams,  I  sought  a  lodging  at  the  Government  Farm  and 
Agency,  but  was  denied.  In  vain  did  I  present  my  voca- 
tion and  object ;  I  could  not  obtain  the  privilege  even  of 
sleeping  upon  the  floor,  and  finding  my  own  provisions, 
but  was  directed  to  an  Indian  tavern  some  miles  off.  Not 
relishing  this,  I  drove  on,  planning  for  a  night  in  the 
woods  by  my  own  camp-fire.  Soon  I  found  that  my  trail 
entered  a  vast  tract  covered  with  water  of  unknown  depth, 
perhaps  for  miles.  I  endeavored  to  pass  around,  but  was 
hemmed  in  and  had  to  "  take  water."  In  I  drove,  commit- 
ting myself  to  the  floods.  It  proved  of  fordable  depth, 
though  of  long  and  tedious  continuance.  Emerging  from 
the  floods,  I  espied  through  the  forest  the  stately  stone  mis- 


DIFFICULTIES   OF   TRAVEL.  385 

sion  house  of  the  Presbyterian  Station.  Approaching  and 
giving  my  name  and  position,  I  was  kindly  met  by  the 
Superintendent,  Rev.  Dr.  Sturgess,  and  his  excellent  lady, 
recognized  as  a  missionary  and  a  brother,  formed  an  inter- 
esting acquaintance,  and  ever  after  had  a  welcome  and 
pleasant  home  among  them.  Thanks  to  the  churl  that  had 
turned  me  off  an  hour  before. 

The  trip  embraced  more  or  less  stay  in  Florence,  Fort 
Calhoun,  De  Soto,  Guming  City,  Tekama,  and  Decatur 
below  the  Reserve,  and  Omadi  and  Dakotah  above.  I  also 
crossed  the  Missouri  into  Northern  Iowa,  visited  Sioux  City, 
and  looked  in  upon  Dakotah  Territory.  It  had  been  my 
purpose  to  travel  up  the  Missouri  as  far  as  I  could,  but  I 
found  further  progress  for  the  present  impracticable,  and 
turned  my  face  homeward.  At  Omaha  Creek  the  bridge 
had  fallen  in  during  my  stay.  Returning,  I  was  compelled 
to  procure  aid,  take  my  buggy  apart,  and  carry  it  piece  by 
piece  over  the  wreck  of  the  bridge,  then  uniting  the  length 
of  two  picket-ropes — nearly  one  hundred  feet — fastening 
one  end  around  the  neck  of  my  faithful  horse,  and  throw- 
ing the  other  over  the  stream,  with  two  men  on  one  side 
to  put  him  in,  and  three  on  the  other  to  pull  at  the  rope,  the 
noble  animal  was  drawn  through  the  mire  and  current  by 
main  force.  At  other  points  I  had  great  difficulty.  Our 
quarterly  meetings  were  seasons  of  interest  and  profit. 

A  second  trip  was  made  over  the  same  groi.nd  in  August, 
with  scenes  almost  similar,  and  the  addition  of  flies  by  day 
and  mnsketoes  by  night.  My  buggy  gave  way  under  the 
hard  service,  and,  for  a  time,  with  these  surroundings,  I  was 
forced  to  "lay  up  for  repairs." 

Repeated  trips,  also,  were  made  to  the  portion  of  the  dis- 
trict up  the  Platte,  and  upon  the  Elkhorn,  or,  as  familiarly 
termed,  "The  Horn."  In  the  first  of  these,  having  the 
misfortune  to  tear  off  a  wheel  from  my  vehicle  upon  a  ferry- 
boat, I  was  compelled  to  make  a  long  horseback  ride  in 
mi  summer.  The  traveling  in  this  section  was  less  diffi- 
cult, but  the  musketoes  were  next  to  unendurable.  The 

33 


386  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

luxury  of  a  musketo-bar  was  rarely  known,  and  the  prac- 
tice was  to  resort  to  a  "smudge."  As  evening  approached, 
a  fire  was  kindled  near  the  dwelling,  upon  which  green 
grass  was  thrown,  producing  a  dense  smoke,  and  partially 
driving  them  away,  so  as  to  afford  some  relief  at  the  ex- 
pense of  a  suffocating  process.  I  have  known  a  family  to 
sit  up  with  their  horses,  and  "  smudge  "  them  all  night. 

The  annual  trip  to  the  Atlantic  seaboard  was  made  in 
the  Fall,  as  usual,  the  session  of  the  General  Mission  Com- 
mittee attended,  and  a  little  season  spent  with  friends  in 
New  York,  Baltimore,  Washington,  and  other  places. 
Having  had  so  bitter  an  experience  of  Winter-staging  in 
Iowa,  I  determined,  this  time,  to  risk  a  passage,  late  as  it 
was,  up  the  Missouri.  The  ice  met  us  about  one  hundred 
miles  below  St.  Joseph,  and,  after  some  days'  hard  battling, 
we  succeeded  in  making  that  point,  whence  I  took  land 
conveyance  home.  The  quarterly  meetings  for  the  third 
quarter  had  been  mainly  held  during  my  absence. 

The  labors  of  the  fourth  quarter  were  entered  upon  and 
prosecuted  as  usual.  The  Winter  was  generally  mild. 
The  crossing  of  streams  upon  the  ice  was,  much  of  the 
time,  precarious  and  insecure.  Hazards  were  encountered, 
perhaps  beyond  the  bounds  of  strict  propriety.  At  one 
time  my  horse  broke  through  the  ice  in  attempting  to  cross 
Missouri  River.  When  I  saw  my  long-tried  and  faithful 
servant  contending  with  the  ice  and  the  current,  and  in  mo- 
mentary danger  of  being  swept  under,  my  feelings  of  self- 
reproach  for  his  exposure  became  very  strong.  I  could  not 
bear  the  thought  of  his  perishing  thus  by  my  rashness.  By 
a  desperate  effort,  with  some  assistance,  he  extricated  him- 
self. I  sent  him  back  home,  inwardly  promising  never 
thus  to  expose  him  again.  Crossing  myself,  I  started  off 
upon  the  district  on  foot,  bearing  my  baggage  till  relieved, 
which  was  not  till  well-nigh  wearied  down  with  my  un- 
wonted mode  of  travel. 

We  now  approach  a  scene  of  deep  and  painful  inter- 
est ;  one  which  in  its  results  was  greatly  to  affect  my  future 


SCENES  AT  HOME.  387 

life  and  labors.  Hitherto,  in  all  my  wanderings  and  toils, 
I  had  always  had  a  devoted  and  willing  participant.  Home 
had  been  cheered  and  made  a  resting-place,  with  a  society 
and  companionship  all  that  I  desired.  Absence  had  been 
relieved  by  the  reflection  that  the  family  altar  was  kept  up, 
the  morning  and  evening  sacrifice  offered,  the  interests  and 
comfort  of  dependent  ones  provided  for,  and  all  the  details 
of  secular  business  and  domestic  care  guided  by  a  compe- 
tent and  faithful  hand.  A  counselor,  too,  and  friend,  had 
been  near  me  in  every  hour  of  impetuosity  or  of  discour- 
agement ;  diffident,  unobtrusive,  but  judicious,  constant, 
gentle,  faithful. 

The  opinion  had  seemed  to  be  mutually,  though  rather 
silently,  entertained  that  I,  though  possessing  more  firmness 
of  physical  constitution,  should  first  be  called  away ;  and 
all  the  arrangements  of  later  years  had  contemplated  this 
event.  For  this  I  had  endeavored  to  have  my  "house  in 
order."  But  how  vain  are  all  our  plans  founded  upon  mere 
presentiment.  "  God's  ways  are  not  our  ways,  nor  his 
thoughts  our  thoughts."  A  cup  was  prepared  for  me  of 
which  I  had  never  expected  to  drink. 

Upon  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  February,  1859,  I  started 
upon  the  northern  portion  of  my  fourth  round  of  quarterly 
meetings.  The  trip  would  take  me  to  the  extreme  of  the 
district  and  occupy  several  weeks.  All  at  home  were  well 
and  cheerful.  My  meeting  at  De  Soto  was  attended.  The 
ensuing  Sabbath  was  the  time  fixed  for  the  quarterly  meet- 
ing at  Dakotah,  above  the  Omaha  Reserve,  and  the  inter- 
vening week  was  to  be  spent  in  visiting  the  towns  upon  the 
way.  On  Monday  I  rode  to  Cuming  City  and  preached. 
On  Wednesday  I  was  in  Tekama  and  preached  again,  in- 
tending to  proceed  the  next  day.  A  deep  fall  of  snow 
arrested  my  progress  ;  traveling  was  suspended  ;  the  way 
up  through  the  Indian  lands  being  unbroken  and  without 
white  inhabitants,  it  was  deemed  unsafe  to  attempt  the 
journey.  For  the  first  time  in  my  itinerant  life  I  turned 
my  back  upon  a  storm.  Starting  homeward  on  Friday 


388  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 

morning,  I  reached  Fort  Calhoim  on  Saturday.  Finding 
my  excellent  friend,  Rev.  H.  Burch,  engaged  in  a  series  of 
meetings  in  that  place,  and  knowing  that  my  family  were 
not  yet  expecting  me,  I  remained  and  preached  three  times, 
both  of  the  evening  sermons  being  founded  upon  Hosea  x, 
12,  "It  is  time  to  seek  the  Lord."  Little  did  I  imagine 
the  scenes  then  transpiring  at  my  own  dwelling.  Early  on 
Monday,  the  14th,  I  again  set  my  face  homeward. 

On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  9th,  my  last  day  in 
Tekama,  the  family  scene  at  home  had  been  as  usual.  My 
wife,  according  to  her  uniform  custom  in  my  absence,  had 
assembled  the  household  at  an  early  hour,  read  the  Holy 
Scriptures,  the  portion  for  that  morning  being  Psalm  cxlvi, 
bowed  with  her  children,  and  commended  them  to  God  in 
prayer.  A  few  hours  passed  in  household  avocations, 
when,  while  seated  at  her  needle,  she  was  suddenly  attacked 
with  violent  illness.  Medical  aid  was  immediately  called, 
but  in  vain.  The  disease  baffled  medicine,  and  almost  from 
the  first  precluded  hope.  Three  days  of  most  excruciating 
suffering  followed.  On  the  morning  of  the  14th,  God 
released  her  sanctified  spirit  and  took  her  to  himself. 

My  supposed  great  distance,  and  the  want  of  knowledge 
of  my  route,  prevented  my  being  sent  for,  though  in  reality 
I  had  passed  most  of  the  time  of  her  illness  within  one 
day's  ride  of  home.  Reaching  Omaha  in  the  afternoon, 
where  I  had  expected  to  pass  the  night,  I  heard  of  her 
illness,  and  in  ten  minutes  after  of  her  death.  A  solitary 
but  hasty  night-ride  of  twenty-five  miles  brought  me  to  my 
home  at  a  late  hour.  Unknowingly,  I  passed  into  a  room 
where  my  eyes  rested  upon  the  precious  remains,  before  I 
had  seen  a  living  being  about  the  house. 

Reason  remained  unimpaired  to  the  last.  Under  the  most 
racking  torture,  perfect  patience  and  resignation  were  exer- 
cised. Not  a  murmur  escaped.  Eight  children  were  at  her 
bedside.  During  the  illness  she  had  all  objects  removed  out 
of  sight  which  reminded  her  of  unfinished  plans  and  con- 
templated domestic  arrangements,  saying,  "I  shall  work 


"THE  LAST  OF  EARTH."  389 

no  more,''  calmly  gave  directions  about  her  household 
affairs,  even  the  most  minute,  inquired  kindly  after  the 
health  of  some  that  were  indisposed,  thanked  attending 
friends  for  their  good  offices,  and  expressed  a  fear  that  she 
should  be  troublesome  or  grow  impatient,  gave  instructions 
for  preparations  for  her  funeral,  addressed  personally  each 
of  her  children  present,  sent  her  last  words  to  the  absent 
one,  and  charged  all  to  meet  her  in  heaven,  enjoined  them 
to  be  "  kind  to  their  father,"  left  a  most  tender  and  con- 
soling message  for  myself,  referring  to  my  expectation  that 
she  would  survive  me,  "Tell  him  not  to  grieve — we  shall 
meet  soon,"  exclaiming  near  the  last,  "  0  that  I  could  see 
Mr.  G.  once  more !"  From  the  first,  her  confidence  was 
firm  and  repeatedly  expressed.  Almost  the  last  words 
tittered  were  two  lines  of  a  hymn  often  sung  in  our  family 

worship  : 

"Rock  of  Ages!  cleft  for  me, 
Let  me  hide  myself  in  thee  1" 

A  spot  was  selected  upon  my  own  farm,  in  the  border  of 
a  grove,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  in  view 
of  our  residence,  the  deep  snow  was  cleared  away,  the  com- 
pass was  set  by  my  own  hand,  the  lines  marked,  and  the 
last  earthly  resting-place  prepared.  Sympathizing  neigh- 
bors and  friends  crowded  the  rooms  of  our  dwelling,  while  a 
funeral  sermon,  from  2  Kings  xx,  1,  2,  3,  was  preached  by 
my  friend,  Rev.  John  Guylee,  of  Council  Bluffs  district. 
The  gentle  and  practiced  hands  of  his  excellent  wife  pre- 
pared the  remains  for  interment.  The  last  kiss  was  im- 
printed upon  the  "beautiful  clay,"  and  the  lid  was  closed. 
A  procession  was  formed  of  rude  sleds,  on  one  of  whioh 
the  mortal  remains  were  borne  away  to  the  spot,  the  funeral 
service  was  read,  and  all  that  was  mortal  was  deposited  in 
the  tomb  to  await  "  the  voice  of  the  archangel  and  the 
trump  of  God." 

So  passed  away  the  thirty  years*  companion  of  my  life. 
"I  was  dumb  with  silence;  I  opened  not  my  mouth,  be- 
cause thou  didst  it." 


390  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

A  plain  slab  of  Italian  marble  marks  the  last  resting- 
place  with  the  simple  inscription  : 

"  A  CHRISTIAN  WIFE, 

AND    MOTHER,    AND    FRIEND." 

Evergreens  and  roses,  planted  by  affectionate  hands,  sur- 
round the  spot.  Adieu  !  sainted  one,  till  the  resurrection 
morn.  "Rest,  weary  dust,  rest!  —  Rest,  weary  spirit, 
with  the  Father  of  Spirits,"  till  his  own  voice  shall  call 
thee  forth  ! 


CONFERENCE  AT   OMAHA.  391 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

AFTER  SCENES— REVIEW. 

THE  scenes  of  the  preceding  chapter  were  followed  by  two 
months  of  loneliness  and  feeble  personal  health,  with  my 
motherless  ones  at  home,  and  attending  the  bedside  of  one 
nearly  related  and  sinking  under  the  wastings  of  consump- 
tion. Only  a  single  visit  was  made  to  my  Territorial  work, 
holding  quarterly  meetings  at  the  principal  points,  and 
arranging  for  the  approaching  Conference  at  Omaha. 

On  the  morning  of  April  14,  1859,  the  Conference  as- 
sembled. Bishop  Scott  not  having  arrived,  a  president  pro 
tern,  was  elected,  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was 
administered,  and  the  Conference  proceeded  to  business. 
On  the  morning  of  the  second  day,  the  Bishop  appeared 
and  took  the  chair.  The  session  lasted  four  days.  Attend- 
ance was  full ;  reports  were  favorable,  and  all  seemed  full 
of  life  and  vigor.  On  Monday  afternoon  the  appointments 
were  read,  and  Conference  adjourned. 

The  aggregate  membership  this  year,  including  proba- 
tioners, was  found  to  be  three  thousand,  six  hundred  and 
twenty-six,  an  increase  of  more  than  one  thousand  over  the 
previous  year.  The  number  of  districts  was  continued  as 
the  year  preceding.  Sixty-nine  fields  of  labor,  inclusive  of 
districts,  appear  upon  the  Minutes  ;  and  sixty-one  preachers 
received  appointments  from  the  Conference. 

In  addition  to  these,  the  Missionary  Board  at  New  York, 
had,  in  view  of  the  large  emigration  to  the  mining  region 
at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  appropriated  from  the 
contingent  fund  a  sum  sufficient  to  send  laborers  into  that 
section.  A  separate  field  was  constituted,  under  the  name 
of  Pike's  Peak  and  Cherry  Creek  mission.  Owing,  how- 


392  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

ever,  to  the  demand  for  home  laborers,  and  the  domestic 
circumstances  of  the  preachers,  no  men  were  found  for  this 
work,  and  it  was  left  "to  be  supplied." 

At  this  session  resolutions  were  introduced  requesting  the 
General  Conference  to  divide  the  Kansas  and  Nebraska 
Conference,  by  the  Territorial  line,  making  one  Conference 
in  Kansas  and  another  in  Nebraska.  To  this  measure  I 
stood  in  opposition  alone;  and,  of  course,  yielded  to  the 
overwhelming  odds  against  me.  Time  will  test  its  wisdom. 
Another  session  of  the  Annual  Conference  was  to  intervene 
before  the  General  Conference  ;  but  it  remained  unaltered, 
and  was  considered  as  silently  reaffirmed.  All  my  experi- 
ence is  against  very  small  Conferences,  except  where  there 
is  reason  to  expect  a  speedy  and  rapid  growth. 

Proposals,  also,  were  received  from  two  different  places 
for  the  establishment  of  an  institution  of  learning  of  high 
grade  in  Nebraska  Territory,  and  asking  the  fostering  care 
of  the  Conference.  After  due  consideration,  the  proposal 
from  Oreapolis  was  accepted  by  the  vote  of  a  large  majority. 

Domestic  cares,  in  the  providential  circumstances  of  my 
family,  imperatively  demanding  for  a  season  my  personal 
attention,  I  was  forced  to  decline  further  district- work ;  or, 
indeed,  any  appointment  that  should  take  me  from  home. 
I  was,  accordingly,  favored  with  an  appointment  to  the 
pastoral  charge  at  Oreapolis,  the  site  of  our  contemplated 
literary  institution,  a  town  then  newly  laid  off  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Great  Platte,  and  contiguous  to  my  family  residence. 
Leavenworth,  Kansas,  was  selected  as  the  place  of  the  next 
Conference  session. 

Five  years  had  now  elapsed  since  my  first  appointment 
to  the  work  in  the  Territories  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska. 
They  had  been,  for  the  most  part,  especially  in  the  first- 
named  Territory,  years  of  struggle  and  sanguinary  conflict, 
unprecedented  in  the  history  of  the  settlement  of  any  pre- 
vious portion  of  the  United  States.  In  the  history  of  these 
times  is  manifested  the  wisdom  of  the  steps  taken  by  our 
Episcopal  Board,  sustained  by  the  liberal  policy  of  the 


GENERAL   IMPROVEMENT.  393 

Missionary  Society,  and  guided  by  the  hand  of  Providence 
for  the  early  and  effective  occupancy  of  this  field.  Our 
ministry  were  first  on  the  ground  in  labors  among  the  white 
settlers.  In  their  feelings  and  sympathies  they  were  hand 
in  hand  with  the  great  majority  of  the  people  in  all  their 
struggles.  This  gave  them  access  to  the  people,  and  an 
influence  which  was  always  wielded  for  the  preservation  of 
order,  peace,  and  subjection  to  law.  Decided  as  they 
were  in  their  sentiments  on  the  great  pending  issue,  and 
fearless  as  they  were  in  their  avowal,  still  their  influence  was 
strictly  conservative.  A  powerful  religious  element  was 
thus  thrown  into  the  struggle,  which  had  no  small  weight 
in  shaping  the  final  destiny  of  the  country,  and,  meantime, 
holding  in  check  the  feelings  of  exasperation  which  were 
almost  beyond  control.  But  for  this  influence,  the  violence 
of  the  scene  had  doubtless  been  greatly  increased.  It  was  a 
season  of  imminent  peril,  and  to  some  of  the  preachers  one 
of  personal  loss  and  suffering ;  but  it  was  borne  by  them 
with  an  integrity  and  firmness  worthy  of  the  primitive  days 
of  Methodism. 

The  increase  of  population  and  improvement  in  Nebraska, 
though  at  no  time  rapid,  had  been  steady  and  gradual. 
Kansas  had  received  a  rapid  influx  at  an  early  time ;  but  it 
was  checked  by  the  violence  of  the  time.  No  sooner,  how- 
ever, was  there  a  little  respite,  than  signs  of  recuperation 
began  to  appear.  The  wooden  buildings,  consumed  by  fire, 
were  replaced  by  stone  ;  dilapidations  were  repaired  ;  a  tide 
of  population  again  poured  in,  and  a  general  appearance  of 
energy  and  activity  prevailed.  At  the  period  of  which  I 
write,  I  suppose  that  the  aggregate  white  population  of  the 
two  Territories  exceeded  one  hundred  thousand  souls,  where 
five  years  before  I  had  reported  'less  than  five  hundred  fami- 
lies. Thrifty  and  populous  towns  had  grown  up  where,  a 
few  years  previous,  I  had  traveled  over  the  smooth,  unbro- 
ken surface  of  the  prairies  ;  and  a  busy  population  was 
found  where  all  had  been  solitude  and  silence. 

A  Territorial  Conference  had  been  formed,  and  held  its 


394  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

first  session  within  the  limits,  in  little  over  two  years  from 
the  time  the  first  missionary  was  appointed  to  the  field. 
The  published  Minutes  exhibit  annually  a  large  ratio  of 
increase  in  membership,  save  one  year  of  trial  and  excite- 
ment. From  a  single  preacher  appointed  to  this  vast  field, 
the  number  had  now  increased  to  threescore  effective  men, 
scattered  up  and  down,  and  laboring  faithfully  to  plant  the 
Church  in  the  wilderness. 

Nor  had  the  literary  culture  of  this  growing  community 
been  left  out  of  sight.  Acting  under  the  conviction,  so 
clearly  wrought  out  in  the  experience  of  the  older  States, 
that  healthful  education,  in  our  country,  can  only  succeed 
by  the  fostering  aids  of  religion,  attention  was  early  directed 
to  laying  the  foundation  of  future  institutions  of  learning  ; 
while  the  first  efforts  should  be  wisely  and  vigorously  put 
forth  to  secure  an  efficient  system  of  common  school  educa- 
tion as  the  basis  of  all  sound  instruction.  Sabbath  schools 
were  in  successful  operation  all  over  the  land ;  tract  publi- 
cations were  distributed ;  Bible  societies  were  established, 
and  pursuing  their  beneficent  and  glorious  work  ;  and  all 
the  machinery  of  moral,  social,  and  intellectual  improve- 
ment peculiar  to  the  day  was  in  full,  complete,  and  success- 
ful operation. 

Thus  had  God  placed  the  seal  of  his  approbation  upon 
the  labors  of  his  servants,  crowning  their  efforts  \vith  pres- 
ent success,  and  placing  before  them  the  prospect  of  future 
and  still  increasing  good,  through  their  instrumentality,  to 
coming  generations. 

Conference  over,  I  retired  to  my  home  to  await  the  issue 
of  affliction  then  pending  with  threatening  aspect  in  a  de- 
partment of  my  family  near  at  hand,  intending,  meanwhile, 
as  best  I  could,  to  serve  the  little  flock  committed  to  my 
charge.  But  God  had  other  designs.  A  few  brief  weeks 
closed  the  eyes  of  the  suffering  one  in  the  peaceful  slumbers 
of  the  grave.  A  young  and  widowed  one  returned  to  the 
paternal  home  to  supply,  as  best  she  might,  the  newly-cre- 
ated vacancy  in  the  domestic  household,  and  the  family 


GOD'S  PROVIDENCE.  395 

organization  was  reconstructed  in  accordance  with  Provi- 
dential circumstances. 

Thus,  in  the  providence  of  God,  painful  as  were  its  steps, 
the  way  opened  for  a  change  of  my  field  of  labor,  and  for 
far  more  active  scenes  than  had  been  contemplated.  Truly, 
"  as  the  heavens  are  higher  than  the  earth,  so  are  his  ways 
higher  than  our  ways,  and  his  thoughts  than  our  thoughts." 
But  this  is  reserved  for  a  following  department  of  this 
volume. 


PART    III. 


EXPLORING   TOUR 


TO    THE 


EOCKY   MOUNTAINS 


NOTE. 

THE  matter  of  the  third  part  is  made  up  from  a  series  of  letters 
written  from  the  Mining  region,  while  on  a  tour  planned  by  the  ap- 
pointing power  of  the  Church,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  and  tempo- 
rary organization,  preparatory  to  sending  a  regular  supply  of  ministers. 
They  appeared  in  one  of  the  weekly  journals  of  the  Church.  Subjoined 
is  the  second  quarterly  report,  presenting,  in  part,  the  results  of  the  ex- 
ploration. 


EXPLORING  TOUR  TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


LETTER   I. 

THE    STAKT. 

APRIL  of  the  present  year,  1859,  found  the  members  of 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  Conference  assembled  at  the  capital 
of  the  latter  Territory,  attending  upon  the  labors  of  an 
Annual  Conference  session.  Bishop  Scott  was  in  his  place 
in  the  Conference-room  and  in  his  council,  performing  the 
duties  of  his  office  with  his  wonted  urbanity  and  cheerful- 
ness. The  body  of  preachers  present  from  both  Terri- 
tories composed  a  Conference  respectable  for  numbers  and 
strength,  who  had  been  gathered  together  in  the  brief  space 
of  five  years  with  unit  as  a  beginning ;  courteous,  active, 
harmonious;  cheered  with  the  success  of  the  past,  and  vig- 
orously preparing  for  another  campaign.  A  new,  and  hith- 
erto unanticipated  class  of  circumstances  surrounded  me. 
"The  hand  of  God  had  touched  me."  Two  lonely  months 
of  solitude  and  partial  suspension  of  accustomed  labor  had 
intervened.  Dependent  and  helpless  ones  at  home  were  the 
objects  of  deep  solicitude.  Further  district  labors  were  de- 
clined as  impracticable  ;  and  the  gloomy  thought  of  tempo- 
rary retirement  from  the  active  field  was  haunting  me  as  a 
dire  necessity;  unspoken  as  yet,  awaiting  Providential  indi- 
cations. 

A  new  subject  of  interest  was  engaging  the  attention  of 
the  Bishop  and  his  Council,  as  well  as  of  the  members  of 
the  Conference  generally.  The  golden  treasures  beginning 
to  be  revealed  in  the  region  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  were 

399 


400  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

inviting  large  numbers  of  our  citizens  and  many  of  our 
Church  members  to  these  inhospitable  and  hitherto  unfre- 
quented parts.  The  Church,  faithful  to  her  pioneer  calling, 
had  already,  through  the  proper  authorities,  said,  "  The 
Gospel  must  be  sent  there,  our  brethren  must  have  the  Word 
of  life,  the  new  community  must  be  evangelized."  A  new 
and  vast  enlargement  was  thus  to  be  made  to  our  already- 
extended  field  of  labor,  and  the  cry  was  sounded,  "  Who 
will  go  for  us?"  but,  amid  the  home  demands  for  laborers 
and  the  numerous  and  pressing  engagements  of  the  minis- 
ters, official  and  private,  sounded  in  vain,  and  in  that  silence 
the  writer  participated,  little  dreaming  of  the  real  future. 
The  subject  at  length  came  up  for  definite  action  in  the 
council  ;  still  no  response.  The  Bishop,  as  if  by  sudden 
impulse,  made  a  personal  appeal  to  him  who  now  occupies 
his  camp  at  the  base  of  these  Alpine  hights.  The  thought 
flashed  over  my  mind,  "I  should  like  to  go."  The  recol- 
lection of  past  frontier  scenes  was  called  up,  and  the  bless- 
ing of  God  that  had  followed  a  faith  weak,  though  adven- 
turous, with  a  desire  to  strike  one  more  blow  for  God  and 
the  Church  in  the  "regions  beyond,"  ere  the  weapons  of 
itinerancy  were  laid  down.  The  suggestion  was  strongly 
seconded  by  brethren  present.  Strangely,  it  might  seem,  it 
was  entertained  by  myself.  Time  was  asked  for  reflection 
during  the  Sabbath  then  at  hand.  Some  preliminaries  were 
contingently  arranged.  The  first  hour  of  retirement  was 
devoted  to  the  subject.  Conflicting  claims,  and  calls,  and 
ties  were  brought  together ;  an  effort  was  made  to  balance 
them;  the  domestic  preponderated;  "I  can't  go,"  was  the 
prompt  decision.  Monday  morning  came ;  this  decision  was 
communicated  ;  "  Pike's  Peak  and  Cherry  Creek  mission  " 
was  set  down  "to  be  supplied "  from  some  other  Conference, 
and  its  proposed  incumbent  received  by  the  kindness  of  the 
appointing  power  a  small  station — rather  the  privilege  of 
forming  one — leaving  him  at  liberty  to  conform  his  labors 
to  his  circumstances. 

Conference  adjourned.     Brethren  shook  hands,  breathed 


ACCEPTANCE  AND   APPOINTMENT.  401 

a  prayer  for  each  other,  and  separated  for  their  distant  fields 
of  labor.  Home  was  visited,  bereft  as  it  was  of  what 
mainly  constitutes  a  home.  Other  Providential  changes  fol- 
lowed in  rapid  succession,  which,  painful  as  they  were  in 
themselves,  nevertheless  opened  the  way  to  an  acceptance  of 
the  proposed  work.  The  stream  of  emigration  was  rolling 
by  me  daily,  and  the  desire  revived  to  go,  to  spend  a  season 
on  the  Plains,  in  the  mountain  solitudes,  and  the  camps  of 
the  miners.  The  seat  of  Missouri  Conference,  then  in  ses- 
sion, was  visited,  and  the  place  was  found  yet  unfilled  by 
the  Bishop.  A  proposal  was  made,  time  again  taken  for 
consideration  several  days,  and  after  final  adjournment, 
about  the  hour  of  midnight,  the  appointment  was  made 
out,  and  the  requisite  papers  placed  in  my  hands.  The 
instructions  of  a  former  tour  of  exploration  were,  mutoto 
nomine,  renewed. 

At  early  dawn  of  the  succeeding  morning,  the  good 
Bishop  took  the  train  East.  The  day,  with  a  judicious 
friend,  was  spent  in  the  busy  streets  of  St.  Joe,  examin- 
ing wagons,  mules,  harness,  etc.,  and  nightfall  found  the 
new  appointee  possessed  of  a  substantial  vehicle  adapted  to 
the  Plains,  and  four  sturdy  animals  with  suitable  equipage. 
The  next  morning  the  whip  was  cracked,  a  clerical  friend, 
better  skilled  in  that  species  of  engineering  than  myself, 
kindly  taking  the  lines  for  the  first  hundred  miles ;  in  which 
time,  by  his  careful  lessons,  I  was  so  far  initiated  as  to  ven- 
ture to  steer  the  remaining  twenty  to  my  Glen  wood  home. 

A  trip  to  the  Territory  followed.  Rev.  J.  Adriance,  jun- 
ior preacher  upon  Rock  Bluff  mission,  had  been  granted  me 
as  an  associate.  He  was  sought  for  and  found  in  place  on 
liis  work,  and  readily  assented.  A  brief  space  was  em- 
ployed in  "  setting  the  -house  in  order,"  and  the  almost 
inconceivable  details,  purchases,  fittings  up,  etc.,  that  go  to 
make  up  a  complete  outfit  for  the  Plains,  embracing  the 
entire  trip,  stay,  and  return.  A  day  was  fixed  for  starting. 

Meanwhile  the  great  stampede  was  taking  place.  Multi- 
tudes in  "  the  States,"  allured  by  the  reports,  had  resolved 

34 


402  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

to  visit  the  place  where  gold  could  be  gathered  from  the 
brooks  and  the  sands  without  measure,  enrich  themselves  at 
once,  and  through  the  remainder  of  life  enjoy  their  otium 
cum  dignitate.  The  golden  vision  flitted  before  their  eyes, 
and  obscured  all  else.  Money  was  borrowed  ;  lands  were 
sold  or  mortgaged ;  other  property  sacrificed ;  wife  and 
children  placed  upon  a  scanty  allowance,  to  live  upon  the 
hope  of  future  abundance  ;  and  fathers,  brothers,  and  sons 
were  en  route  for  Pike's  Peak.  Banners  floated,  revolvers 
were  flourished  ;  the  pick  and  pan  were  ostentatiously  dis- 
played as  emblems  of  future  and  certain  acquisition  ;  and 
light  and  merry  hearts  sang  or  whistled  along  the  westward 
roads. 

I  will  not  say  that  the  entire  emigration  was  of  this  cast. 
Some  were  thoughtful,  considerate,  prudent  men — men  who, 
under  other  circumstances,  might  have  succeeded ;  but  the 
great  mass  were  inconsiderate,  rash,  and  reckless,  with  indif- 
ferent teams,  poor,  crazy  wagons,  and  almost  without  har- 
ness. A  large  number  of  men  actually  harnessed  themselves 
to  hand-carts,  as  beasts  of  burden,  to  draw  their  tools,  pro- 
visions, and  equipage,  almost  a  thousand  miles  over  an  un- 
inhabited plain  ;  some  undertook  the  journey  with  wheel- 
barrows, while  not  a  few  hazarded  the  entire  trip,  from 
some  of  the  more  remote  States,  on  foot,  lugging  their 
tent-poles  and  scanty  supplies  upon  their  shoulders.  Such 
a  scene  is  not  witnessed  once  in  a  century.  Ill-provided, 
only  intent  on  reaching  the  El  Dorado,  and  little  thinking 
how  life  was  to  be  sustained  there !  Add  to  this,  that  one 
of  the  articles  most  uniformly  thought  of  and  carefully 
provided  was  a  supply  of  the  "ardent,"  to  serve  as  a  sub- 
stitute in  all  other  deficiencies,  and  frequently  gaming  ap- 
paratus with  which  to  sport  over  their  golden  acquisitions. 

It  is  computed  that,  during  the  months  of  April  and 
May,  one  hundred  thousand  persons  crossed  the  Missouri 
River.  Some  went  nearly  through,  others  half-way,  but  by 
far  the  larger  number  only  a  short  distance  into  the  Terri- 
tory, encountering  severe  rains,  snow-storms,  and  other 


EXCITEMENT  AT  CHEERY  CREEK.       403 

hardships  and  exposures.  Enough,  however,  reached  Cherry 
Creek  to  produce  a  heavy  pressure  upon  the  few  inhabitants 
there.  Provisions  were  scarce.  No  employment  for  hire. 
The  Cherry  Creek  diggings  were  yielding  unsatisfactory 
returns.  The  mountain  treasures,  as  yet  covered  with  snow 
and  undiscovered — though  some  hardy  adventurers  were 
even  then  prospecting  in  the  mountains — the  great  mass 
were  indisposed  to  "prospect,"  or  to  labor  in  any  way. 
They  became  restless  and  disorderly;  accused  those  who  had 
preceded  them  of  having  humbugged  and  deceived  them  by 
false  publications  and  representations,  and  threatened  vio- 
lence upon  all  the  settlers.  This  state  of  excitement  was  car- 
ried to  its  acme  by  the  arrival  of  a  man  brought  in  upon  one 
of  the  southern  routes,  in  a  state  of  insanity,  who  had  actu- 
ally eaten,  in  part,  the  carcasses  of  two  of  his  own  brothers, 
one  of  whom,  it  was  supposed,  he  had  killed  for  the  pur- 
pose. Spaniards,  Mexicans,  and  all  were  commingled. 
The  citizens  were  alarmed.  In  the  extremity  Indian  aid 
was  resorted  to,  and  made  ready  to  be  used  for  protection, 
should  the  emergency  require  it.  This  came  to  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  lawless  throng.  All  in  a  little  time  was  quieted ; 
the  excitement  subsided  ;  the  malcontents  started  for  home, 
many  of  them  begging  their  way,  and  all  carrying  the  most 
doleful  reports  of  "no  gold,"  "humbug,"  famine,  murder, 
etc.  Men  were  met  with  reports  of  their  own  death  by  those 
who  averred  that  they  themselves  had  done  the  deed,  or  par- 
ticipated in  it.  One  saw  his  own  grave  and  epitaph  in  sev- 
eral different  places.  Pike's  Peak  banners  were  exchanged 
for  pictures  of  "  the  elephant,"  and  other  emblems  and 
mottoes  of  defeat  equally  significant.  Party  after  party 
was  turned  back  in  succession,  till  eventually  almost  the 
whole  mass  had  set  their  faces  toward  the  rising  sun  ;  and 
even  the  few  who  had  the  fortitude  to  persevere  had  to  haul 
down  the  Pike's  Peak  flag,  and  hang  out  for  "California," 
to  protect  them  from  insult  and  injury.  The  vast  crowd 
passed  on,  lingering  awhile  in  groups  about  the  crossing  of 
the  Missouri  River,  drinking,  carousing,  threatening  to 


404  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

burn  the  border  towns,  where  they  had  obtained  their  sup- 
plies, and  actually  intimidating  the  inhabitants,  till,  the  gas 
being  expended,  they  recrossed  the  river  and  quietly  returned 
to  their  homes. 

Such  was  the  state  of  things  intervening  between  my  ap- 
pointment and  start.  The  stampede  was  then  passing  by 
me.  An  entire  stop  was  put  to  the  spirit  of  emigration. 
I  even  failed,  by  one,  to  make  up  my  own  intended  com- 
pany. Of  course,  the  anxiety  of  friends  was  aroused  with 
reference  to  our  enterprise.  "Will  he  go?"  was  the  in- 
quiry made  of  others,  and  occasionally  of  myself.  The 
reply  was,  "I  shall  start,  the  Lord  willing,  and  not  turn 
back  till  I  see  and  know  a  cause."  Little  opposition  or 
remonstrance  was  directly  made  to  myself,  but  now  and 
then  I  could  hear  it  indirectly.  And  even  when  silent,  I 
thought  I  could  see  written  in  the  expression  of  counte- 
nance, "  folly,"  "  rashness,"  "  utterly  useless."  A  half-way 
trip  and  early  return  were  predicted.  And  even  some  of 
my  ministerial  brethren,  I  believe,  joined  in  the  sentiment, 
"Better  give  it  up." 

Meanwhile  silently  went  on  our  preparation.  The  day 
came ;  all  were  ready  ;  my  young  colleague,  the  teamster, 
and  myself.  The  load  was  adjusted,  team  harnessed  ;  a  few 
neighbors  came  together  to  see  us  off.  All  were  assembled  ; 
"Rock  of  Ages"  sung  with  an  accompaniment;  prayer 
offered  ;  leave  taken ;  the  driver's  box  mounted  ;  and  night- 
fall found  us  over  the  Missouri  River,  encamped  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  village  of  Plattesmouth ;  banner  out  "For 
the  Mines." 


ADIEU   TO   CIVILIZATION.  405 


LETTER   II. 

MISSOURI    RIVER    TO    FORT    KEARNEY. 

THE  second  morning  was  bright  and  cheerful.  An  early- 
breakfast  was  taken  under  the  roof  of  a  clerical  friend,  and 
a  little  further  time  spent  in  preparation  before  leaving  "the 
settlements."  In  due  time  we  were  off,  all  in  good  condi- 
tion, bade  adieu  to  civilization,  and  fairly  committed 
ourselves  to  the  "Plains."  Plattesmouth,  the  point  at 
which  we  crossed,  is  some  two  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Great  Platte,  or  Nebraska  River. 

The  road,  for  the  first  hundred  miles,  bears  off  from  the 
river,  making  a  tortuous  course  in  compliance  with  the 
"  divides  "  or  separating  ridges,  and  avoiding  the  gulches 
and  ravines.  Thirty  miles  of  travel  brings  us  to  Salt 
Creek,  a  stream  of  perhaps  one  hundred  feet  wide,  crossed 
upon  a  toll  bridge,  the  largest  stream  on  this  route  from  the 
Missouri  to  the  mines,  and  the  only  toll  or  ferriage.  A  few 
miles  east  of  this  point  we  intersect  the  road  from  Nebraska 
City,  and  fall  into  the  great  line  of  travel.  Thus  far  are 
scattering  settlements  on  the  banks  of  small  streams, 
some  fine-looking  lands,  and  in  some  places  a  tolerable 
supply  of  timber.  Salt  Creek  is  the  terminus  of  white 
settlement.  Upon  the  banks  of  this  stream,  it  is  said,  gold 
has  been  found ;  but  probably  more  reliance  is  to  be  placed 
upon  the  salt  springs  found  higher  up,  which  will,  it  is  sup- 
posed, one  day  be  worked  with  profit,  and  supply  the 
country  with  that  indispensable.  The  water  of  the  creek  is 
so  strongly  impregnated  as  to  be  unfit  for  drinking  when 
low.  On  the  bank  of  this  stream,  during  the  excitement 
of  last  Spring,  was  found  the  body  of  Mr.  Carpenter,  from 
our  neighboring  town  of  Tabor,  Iowa,  and  his  mule,  both 


406  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

shot  and  thrown  into  a  slough.  Here  we  learned  that  the 
Pawnee  Indians  were  attempting  to  stampede  teams  at  night, 
with  a  view  to  stealing  them.  From  this  point  we  guarded 
our  team,  under  arms,  all  through  every  night  of  our  out- 
ward trip,  less,  however,  from  apprehension  of  Indian 
depredations  than  of  white.  Here,  for  the  first,  we  take  in 
water  and  fuel,  the  latter  for  sixty  miles,  and  pass  through 
a  timberless  region  to  Elm  Creek,  a  small  stream,  noted 
only  as  the  great  rendezvous  of  the  malcontent  emigrants, 
and  the  point  from  which  many  reversed  their  course.  Here 
it  was  that  they  held  their  tumultuous  meetings  and  con- 
cocted their  plans  of  threatened  vengeance  upon  the  border 
towns.  It  is  familiarly  known  as  "  the  Turn  Table, "  or 
"  Elephant  City."  A  few  have  remained,  done  some  break- 
ing, and  are  making  efforts  at  a  permanent  settlement.  It 
is  a  fine  spot,  minus  timber.  We  are  now  in  the  valley  of 
the  Great  Platte ;  about  ten  miles  further  on,  our  road 
strikes  the  river,  and  never  leaves  it  again  more  than  a  few 
miles,  till  we  reach  Cherry  Creek.  About  forty  miles  fur- 
ther, brings  us  to  the  site  of  an  old  Pawnee  village. 
Nothing  of  interest  remains  to  be  seen  except  a  lone  grave, 
probably  of  some  chief  or  noted  brave,  surrounded  by 
pony-skulls,  placed  circularly  with  great  precision.  These 
seem  to  have  been  sacredly  regarded  by  travelers,  and  left 
uninterruptedly  in  their  position.  Passed,  near  this  place, 
two  companies  of  United  States  Artillery  from  Fort  Kear- 
ney, bound  for  Minnesota,  and  subsequently  a  detachment 
of  Cavalry,  en  route  for  Nebraska  City,  to  guard  Govern- 
ment teams  out.  Why  the  necessity  of  a  military  escort, 
we  did  not  learn.  From  this  point  to  Fort  Kearney,  the 
road  continues  in  the  bottom,  now  touching  the  river  and 
then  winding  off  to  the  bluffs,  a  distance  of  from  three  to 
five  miles.  At  a  few  points  the  bluffs  touch  the  river. 

Up  to  Fort  Kearney  the  soil  of  the  valley  is  good,  and 
nothing  to  prevent  a  profitable  settlement  save  the  want  of 
timber.  Platte  River  is  spread  out  over  a  space  of  about  a 
mile  in  width,  shallow  and  rapid,  wholly  unfit  for  naviga- 


THE   GREAT   TLATTE.  407 

tion,  except  as  it  has  afforded  to  some  of  the  Pike's  Peakers 
a  transit,  at  its  present  high  stage,  in  light-made  crafts, 
hastily  constructed,  frequently  requiring  to  be  hauled  off 
from  the  shoals,  and  occasionally  drowning  a  luckless  pas- 
senger in  some  unexpected  depth,  washed  out  by  its  rapid 
current.  But  let  none  henceforth  pronounce  the  Great 
Platte  a  "worthless  stream,"  as  many  have  done,  and  the 
writer  among  them ;  but  he  takes  it  all  back  and  would  fain 
apologize  to  the  noble  river.  God  has  made  nothing  in 
vain.  No  man  who  has  once  followed  up  its  windings, 
traversed  the  beautiful  natural  highway  opened  up  its  val- 
ley, equal  to  one  of  our  Eastern  turnpikes,  linking  together 
the  two  halves  of  our  continent,  and  drank  of  its  sweet  and 
wholesome  waters,  a  constant  supply  for  the  whole  route, 
can  call  it  useless.  This  river,  with  its  two  branches,  prob- 
ably affords  on  its  banks  more  continuous  miles  of  good 
natural  highway  than  any  other  stream  in  the  known  world, 
thus  indicating,  from  the  hand  of  Providence,  a  route  for 
the  great  railroad  connection  with  the  Pacific,  whenever 
our  National  Legislature  shall  find  time  to  attend  to  a  mat- 
ter of  so  small  concern.  The  monotony  of  the  scenery  for 
some  hundreds  of  miles  is  greatly  relieved  by  the  thousands 
of  beautiful  islands  that  crowd  its  bosom,  covered  with 
timber  varying  in  size  and  character,  but  generally  small. 
Considerable  cedar  is  found,  but  neither  in  dimensions  nor 
quantity  for  railroad  construction,  as  has  been  alleged. 
From  these  islands  fuel  is  obtained  by  emigrants,  scarcely 
any  being  found  upon  the  mainland.  Occasionally  a  good 
spring  of  water  is  met  with,  and  still  more  rarely  a  small 
running  brook.  Water  is  easily  obtained  by  digging  a  few 
feet,  and  in  many  places  it  abounds  in  sloughs.  But  this 
is  said  to  be  strongly  impregnated  with  alkali,  productive 
of  sickness,  and  often  fatal  to  stock :  hence  the  more  pru- 
dent and  cautious  confine  themselves  to  the  waters  of  the 
Platte,  keeping  the  water  cask  well  filled  for  an  emergency. 
The  water  is  palatable,  increasing  in  coldness  as  you  ap- 
proach the  mountains.  It  contains  glittering  particles,  said 


408  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

to  be  mica  or  isinglass  stone,  but  which  my  unpracticed  eye 
would  not  distinguish  from  gold  dust,  thus  alluring  on  the 
future  miner  with  golden  hopes. 

Fort  Kearney  is  situated  in  the  open  plain,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  Platte  Eiver,  about  two  hundred  miles  from 
its  junction  with  the  Missouri.  There  is  nothing  bold  or 
commanding  in  its  position,  as  with  our  military  posts  gen- 
erally. Such  sites  are  not  to  be  found  on  the  Plains,  the 
bald  bluffs  being  unsightly  and  ill-adapted.  The  buildings 
are  inferior  to  those  at  most  of  our  posts  on  the  Western 
frontier,  though  no  doubt  erected  at  great  expense,  from  the 
great  cost  of  transporting  materials.  Uncle  Sam's  opera- 
tions are  all  expensive,  and  none  perhaps  more  so  than  in 
the  military  department. 

We  still  meet  from  ten  to  twenty  wagons  per  day  of  re- 
turning miners,  looking  sadly  cowed,  and  seeming  almost 
offended  when  they  learn  our  destination.  They  appear  to 
regard  it  as  a  virtual  impeachment  of  their  judgment  or 
fortitude,  if  not  indeed  of  their  veracity,  supposing  us,  too, 
to  be  in  search  of  gold.  Some  sigh,  and  wish  us  "  better 
luck"  than  they  had.  Others  pass  with  a  slight  contempt- 
uous remark  or  a  significant  curl  of  the  lip,  which  seems  to 
say,  "What  simpletons!"  To  those  "  heading  for  the 
mines"  we  generally  explain  our  object  and  seek  to  pave 
our  way  ;  to  the  retreating  body  we  make  few  explanations. 
For  some  days  past  we  have  seen  antelopes  in  considerable 
numbers,  but  their  wariness  renders  it  difficult  to  get  a  shot. 

A  little  incident  occurred  at  Fort  Kearney  illustrative  of 
the  doggedly-obstinate  manner  in  which  some  seem  disposed 
to  resist  all  evidence  of  Western  discoveries,  however  well 
attested,  equal  at  least  to  the  antipodal  credulity  of  the 
worst  humbugged  Pike's  Peakers.  Desirous  of  obtaining 
in  my  progress  every  possible  item  of  reliable  information, 
I  have  taken  occasion  to  converse  with  intelligent  men,  as  I 
have  met  them.  In  conversation  with  some  army  officers, 
as  I  took  them  to  be,  on  the  way,  I  was  advised  to  call  on 
Major ,  commanding  officer  at  the  Fort.  Finding  my- 


MILITARY   SWELL.  409 

self  accidentally  near  the  Major,  I  introduced  myself,  stated 
my  objects,  and  inquired  for  the  latest  items  of  information 
from  the  mining  district.  A  pompous,  military  swell  was 
put  on,  and  the  Major,  instead  of  answering  my  question, 
commenced  giving  his  "opinions  from  the  first"  —  "A 
grand  humbug  " — "  An  extenuation  [pardon  his  English, 
he  came  up  from  the  ranks]  of  the  Kansas  swindle " — 
"  Designed  to  act  upon  the  Presidential  election  of  1860  " — 
with  more  of  the  same  sort.  I  inquired  if  Mr.  Greeley  had 
passed  on  by  that  route.  "  Did  n't  know  ;  probably  he 
had  ;  Greeley  was  one  of  the  movers  in  the  Kansas  swindle ; 
likely  to  be  out  on  that  business."  Politely  dissenting  from 
some  of  the  Major's  opinions,  and  questioning  some  of  his 
geographical  facts,  I  bade  him  "  good-by."  Let  not  this 
be  taken  as  a  specimen  of  the  intelligence  and  urbanity  of 
our  military  men.  It  has  been  my  lot  to  visit  nearly  all  of 
the  military  posts  upon  our  Western  frontier,  and  no  where 
have  I  met  a  more  bland,  gentlemanly,  and  courteous  class 
of  men  than  our  army  officers.  But  there  are  exceptions. 

35 


410  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 


LETTER   III. 

PORT  KEARNEY  TO  GREAT  CROSSING. 

FORT  KEARNEY  is  passed.  We  are  now  about  two  hund- 
red miles  out  upon  the  Plains,  still  wending  our  way  up 
the  Great  Platte.  Twelve  miles  east  of  the  Fort  we  inter- 
sected the  military  road  from  Leavenworth  and  St.  Joe  ; 
and  from  that  point  to  the  crossing,  about  a  hundred  miles, 
we  are  upon  the  Great  Salt  Lake  thoroughfare,  crowded 
with  Government  teams,  emigrants  to  California,  Oregon — 
few  to  this  place  this  year — Salt  Lake,  the  mines  and  other 
parts,  frequently  with  large  herds  of  cattle.  It  is  difficult 
for  one  who  has  not  witnessed  it,  to  conceive  the  bustle  and 
excitement  now  found  upon  the  Plains.  One  of  the  most 
imposing  spectacles  is  a  Government  train,  composed  of 
twenty-six  large,  heavy-freighted  wagons,  with  six  yokes  of 
oxen  each,  and  attendant  conductors,  extra  hands,  loose 
oxen,  mules,  etc.  Seen  at  a  distance  on  the  Plains  it  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  a  village  and  line  of  houses.  Two 
or  three  times  in  twenty-four  hours  they  go  into  coralle,  a 
circle  formed  by  the  wagons,  turn  the  teams  loose  to  graze, 
under  the  care  of  a  herdsman,  while  the  men  prepare  and 
take  their  meals.  Into  this  circle  the  cattle  are  driven  to  re- 
ceive the  yokes  again.  A  train  in  motion  will  usually 
occupy  half  a  mile  of  road,  and  they  are  almost  constantly 
in  sight.  It  is  something  of  a  feat  to  pass  one  when  travel- 
ing in  the  same  direction,  and  requires  considerable  time, 
from  our  being  thrown  out  of  the  beaten  road.  This  im- 
mense business  is  principally  in  the  hands  of  Majors  & 
Russell,  the  one  of  Nebraska  City,  the  other  of  Leaven- 
worth,  the  two  great  depots  of  Government  stores. 

The  buffalo  range  is  now  fairly  entered.     Carcasses  were 


BUFFALO   RANGE — DOG  TOWNS.  411 

occasionally  seen  below  the  Fort ;  now  the  road  is  literally 
lined  with  them,  producing  a  disagreeable  stench,  and 
frightening  our  team.  They  are  seen  in  herds  of  thousands. 
Now  they  are  crossing  the  river  in  crowds  from  north  to 
south,  and  are  easily  killed,  as  they  come  fatigued  out  of 
the  water.  I  know  not  why  they  should  have  disappeared 
at  our  approach,  unless  it  be  that  a  large  train  of  emi- 
grant wagons — Mormons  I  suppose — has  been  passing  up  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river  opposite  us,  and  has  probably  in- 
tercepted them.  So  it  is,  we  have  made  the  entire  trip  with- 
out seeing  one  live  buffalo.  A  party  just  in  advance  of  us 
killed  nine  one  morning,  and  we  came  up  in  time  to  share 
the  flesh.  On  this  part  of  the  route  the  "buffalo  chips" 
are  largely  used  for  fuel  in  preparing  food ;  but  not  by  us.* 
Along  here  we  first  meet  with  that  singular  institution, 
known  as  "dog  towns,"  which  continue  to  be  found  all 
the  way  up.  1  had  read  Mr.  Gregg's  description  of  them 
in  his  lively  work  on  the  "  Commerce  of  the  Prairies," 
but  always  made  some  allowance  for  his  imagination.  I 
found  his  picture  not  overdrawn.  The  town  covers  a  space 
of  some  acres,  more  or  less.  The  habitations  are  prepared 
by  burrowing  holes  in  the  earth,  with  a  little  hillock  thrown 
up  at  the  entrance  of  each,  upon  which  the  diminutive 
quadruped  seats  himself  near  the  entrance  of  his  domicile, 
and  barks  most  fiercely  at  the  passing  intruder,  taking  care 
to  retreat  speedily  into  his  burrow  if  hostile  demonstrations 
are  made.  Their  habits  are  gregarious  ;  but  what  is  most 
singular  is,  that  they  have  associates  quite  different  from 
themselves  in  character.  A  small  species  of  owl  is  an 
almost  uniform  companion  and  fellow-lodger.  Rattle- 
snakes, too,  abound  among  them,  whether  tolerated  in  their 
communities  as  friends,  or  mere  loafers,  forcibly  quartering 


*More  successful  on  our  return.  Had  a  fine  buffalo  hunt.  We — that 
is,  my  gun,  and  iny  powder  and  balls,  in  the  hands  of  another — brought 
down  several.  We  witnessed  the  whole  scene,  and  obtained  a  quantum 
sufficlt  of  the  flesh. 


412  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

themselves  for  predatory  purposes,  I  have  not  been  able  to 
learn.  So  it  is,  we  were  cautioned  on  this  account  against 
camping  in  their  vicinity,  but  generally  forgot  the  admoni- 
tion. A  lady  in  a  train  we  met  with,  was  induced  by 
some  men  to  try  the  experiment  of  making  broth  of  one 
they  had  killed,  but  described  it  as  rather  a  repulsive  offer- 
ing to  the  palate.  Rattlesnakes  are  found  all  the  way.  Our 
men  often  leaped  from  the  wagon,  and  gave  evidence  of  the 
inveterate  enmity  of  the  races  by  summary  destruction, 
but  I  believe  I  have  myself  deprived  nothing  of  life  on  the 
way,  save  an  occasional  musketo. 

About  eighty  miles  from  the  Fort  is  Cottonwood  Springs, 
a  trading-post  and  notable  watering-place,  with  cedar  wood 
in  the  bluffs.  Forty  miles  further  is  O'Fallon's  Bluff,  a 
mail  station  and  trading-post.  There  the  supply  of  timber, 
even  from  the  islands,  fails,  and  we  laid  in  wood,  with  the 
cedar  obtained  below,  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  part 
of  which  we  hauled  three  hundred,  a  small  amount  sufficing 
.for  our  excellent  stove.  Some  distance  below  this  is  the 
junction  of  North  and  South  Platte,  and  we  begin  to  as- 
cend the  latter.  From  an  elevated  point  near,  I  am  told 
that  the  timber  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Kansas  River 
may  be  seen.  As  we  advance,  the  quality  of  the  soil  dete- 
riorates rapidly.  Some  lands  about  Kearney  are  being  bro- 
ken, and  may  produce  tolerably,  but  in  a  little  way  they  be- 
come sandy  and  sterile,  timberless,  and  unfit  for  cultivation, 
adapted  apparently  to  a  great  highway,  connecting  the  two 
disjointed  sections  of  a  mighty  continent,  and  to  nothing 
else.  Grass  for  teams  is  had  in  the  low  grounds  upon  the 
river. 

About  O'Fallon's  Bluff,  we  exchanged  our  Pawnees  for 
Sioux,  whose  lands  we  had  now  entered.  They  are  the 
deadly  enemies  of  the  Pawnees,  and  are  more  manly  and 
warlike  in  appearance,  and  better  equipped.  The  Pawnees 
dread  the  Sioux ;  their  very  name  is  a  terror  to  them. 
One  morning  two  fine-looking  Sioux,  well  mounted  and 
equipped,  rode  up  to  our  camp,  and  accused,  as  far  as  we 


PAWNEES  AND  SIOUX  413 

could  understand,  the  Pawnees  with  having  stolen  sixteen 
of  their  ponies.  We  learn  that  a  party  of  them  have  lately 
killed  some  ten  or  twelve  Pawnees.  They  seem  to  be  tend- 
ing toward  the  Pawnee  lands  in  considerable  numbers,  and 
probably  are  for  war.  When  not  engaged  in  war  or  hunt- 
ing, they  are  like  other  Indians,  lazy  and  lounging.  Two 
lusty  fellows  of  them  at  one  time  were  disposed  to  take  lib- 
erties of  this  kind  about  our  camp  to  rather  a  disagreeable 
extent.  I  bore  with  them  for  a  time,  and  at  length  summa- 
rily checked  them  up,  upon  which  they  soon  disappeared. 
They  can  only  be  managed  by  promptness  and  decision. 

About  forty  miles  more  brings  us  to  the  point  where  the 
great  Salt  Lake  road  crosses  the  South  Platte.  Arrived 
here,  we  found  a  vast  throng  of  wagons,  tents,  and  herds 
of  cattle,  men,  women,  and  children,  lining  the  banks  of 
the  river  for  miles  on  either  side,  while  the  volume  of  dust 
arising  on  the  opposite  side  marked  the  onward  course  of 
the  crowd  that  had  already  made  the  passage.  The  river 
being  still  swollen,  and  here,  perhaps,  one-third  of  a  mile 
in  width,  we  witnessed  a  motley  scene  of  fording,  wading, 
swimming,  hauling  out  backward,  etc.  Wagon  beds  were 
propped  up  by  blocks,  to  keep  them  above  water,  and  many 
other  expedients  resorted  to,  often  in  vain  ;  the  drenching 
process  had  to  be  endured.  A  party  of  Pike's  Peakers, 
coming  down  in  a  little  craft,  have,  we  learn,  stopped  and 
hired  out  their  boat  to  the  restless  emigrants  at  the  moderate 
rate  of  thirty  dollars  per  day,  for  ferrying  purposes ;  rather 
better  than  digging  gold  had  proved  to  be  to  them.  At  the 
crossing  are  several  cabins,  a  trading-house,  etc.,  with  good 
well  water.  Whisky  abundant ;  terms  generally  posted  up. 
Here  it  is  "from  five  to  eight  dollars  per  gallon,  according 
to  quality" — that  is,  I  suppose,  with  more  or  less  strych- 
nine— "twenty-five  cents  a  drink.'*  Much  liquor  is  carried 
out  in  the  form  of  alcohol  or  "high  wines,"  as  they  call  it, 
and  diluted  for  sale. 

Our  team  has  performed  well ;  passing  every  train  on  the 
road.  A  single  wagon  only  has  left  us  behind.  The  team 


414  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

consisted  of  six  noble  mules.  The  loading  was  in  barrels, 
for  the  mountain  trade  about  Fort  Laramie,  and  we  may 
guess  the  contents.  The  proprietor  seemed  to  keep  pretty 
well  under  the  influence  of  his  staple;  and  inwardly  and 
outwardly  there  was  a  propelling  power  with  which  we 
could  not  compete.  We  are  frequently  applied  to  for  liquor, 
and  now  and  then  for  cards,  My  two  juniors  say  that  they 
are  occasionally  invited  to  drink  ;  but  this  act  of  hospi- 
tality has  not  yet  been  tendered  to  me. 

Emigrants  on  this  route,  to  their  praise  be  it  said,  gener- 
ally stop  on  the  Sabbath.  We  had  an  interesting  opportu- 
nity of  preaching  on  the  Sabbath  that  occurred  upon  this 
section  of  our  journey— brother  A.  at  one  point,  and  my- 
self at  another,  My  congregation  was  made  up  from  several 
encampments  and  a  coralle  of  Government  teams.  One 
of  the  regulations  of  Majors  &  Russell  is  that  their  teams  lie 
by  on  the  Sabbath.  Profanity  and  drunkenness  are  also 
interdicted  among  their  employe's,  on  pain  of  dismissal. 
They  have  an  excellent  moral  code  for  the  government  of 
their  men — one  that,  no  doubt,  contributes  greatly  to  their 
pecuniary  safety  and  success  in  managing  so  extended  a 
concern.  In  this  valley,  also,  I  enjoyed  an  interesting  sea- 
son of  devotion,  one  week-day  morning,  with  a  company  of 
our  own  Church  from  Tennessee  and  Missouri,  en  route  for 
Oregon.  Such  seasons  are  refreshing  so  far  from  home  and 
social  privileges.  Here  we  take  leave  of  the  great  Salt 
Lake  road,  and  still  keep  up  on  the  south  side  of  the  South 
Platte.  We  are  now  out  some  three  hundred  and  fifty 
miles. 


NEWS   FEOM   THE   MINES.  415 


LETTER   IV. 

GREAT  CROSSING  TO  CHERRY  CREEK. 

WE  have  now  left  the  great  thoroughfare,  and  with  it  all 
that  pertains  to  California,  Oregon,  Salt  Lake,  Laramie, 
Government  trains,  and  all.  We  are  wending  our  way  up 
the  valley  on  the  south  side  of  South  Platte,  over  a  less  fre- 
quented but  still  plain  and  well-beaten  track,  pointing 
direct  to  Cherry  Creek.  All  we  now  hear  of  is  Pike's 
Peak,  the  mines,  the  mountains,  the  diggings ;  all  we  see 
are  bound  thither,  or  returning,  for  still  the  backward 
march  is  kept  up  at  the  rate  of  ten,  twenty,  thirty,  forty 
wagons  per  day.  The  news  still  brightens.  Gregory's  dig- 
gings have  been  discovered  ;  it  is  said  they  "pay."  ^  Others 
are  prospecting  in  the  mountains  in  great  numbers ;  some 
claims  are  sold  high  ;  provisions  are  plenty,  order  good. 
Horace  Greeley  has  been  at  the  mines,  and  made  them  an 
encouraging  speech.  The  homeward-bound  no  longer  insult 
you,  but  answer  all  questions  with  civility.  Still,  they  are 
desponding.  They  doubt,  after  all,  whether  it  is  not  a  trick 
of  speculation  ;  they  have  not  been  to  the  mountains  them- 
selves, but  discredit  the  statements  ;  the  grounds  have  been 
"salted" — gold  dust  scattered  to  deceive ;  a  few  are  making 
money,  but  it  is  "  no  place  for  a  poor  man."  At  all  events, 
they  have  bid  adieu  to  the  miner's  life  and  prospects,  and 
are  "  bound  for  America,"  home,  wife,  and  children.  All 
well ;  better  have  staid  there. 

I  have  already  described  the  country  upon  our  last  section 
of  road  as  poor,  unfit  for  cultivation  or  residence.  It  now 
becomes  absolutely  worthless,  and  even  repulsive  in  its  feat- 
ures. It  is  true  the  road  is. fine,  except  in  intervals  of  deep 
sand  ;  the  South  Platte  rolls  majestically  along  with  its 


416  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

sweet  supply,  becoming  daily  cooler  and  more  refreshing  as 
we  approach  its  sources  in  the  mountain  snows  ;  vast  plains 
spread  out  before  the  eye ;  the  atmosphere  is  salubrious,  and 
the  sun  shines  brightly;  but  it  shines  upon  an  arid,  sterile 
desert,  producing  no  sustenance  for  man,  and  scarcely  any 
for  beast,  save  in  small,  isolated  spots,  upon  the  low  banks 
of  the  river,  approached  only  at  the  hazard  of  a  battle  with 
the  musketoes ;  for  we  have  not  yet  passed  the  boundaries 
of  musketodom.  The  surface,  though  sandy,  is  hard  and 
crusted ;  so  rough  and  uneven  with  small  tufts  and  protu- 
berances as  to  make  it  difficult  to  drive  a  wagon  over  it  till 
broken  by  travel,  and  absolutely  impossible  to  find  a  spot 
on  which  the  human  frame  may  rest  with  comfort.  There 
is  a  slight  show  of  vegetation,  but  in  kind  and  quantity 
only  a  mockery,  except  the  low  spots  referred  to.  Thou- 
sands upon  thousands  of  acres  are  covered  with  the  loath- 
some prickly-pear ;  no  green  tree,  and  scarcely  a  shrub  to 
relieve  the  eye ;  and,  to  complete  the  picture,  the  bed  of 
every  stream,  save  one  or  two,  dry;  a  ford  of  deep  sand, 
taxing  the  poor  mules  to  their  utmost  with  the  draught. 

In  the  midst  of  these  scenes  I  passed  my  fifty-second 
birthday.  It  was  a  Sabbath.  I  remained  in  camp  ;  read, 
thought,  prayed.  My  library  for  the  Plains  is  not  large, 
but  select.  The  catalogue  is  as  follows :  Bible,  Hymn- 
Book,  Discipline,  Wesley's  Sermons,  Mason's  Self-Knowl- 
edge, my  faithful  companions  at  home  and  abroad.  Near 
by  was  a  camp  of  jolly  Missourians,  and  others,  keeping 
the  Sabbath  also.  They  had  a  fiddle,  banjo,  rattle-bones, 
guns,  revolvers,  whisky,  and  other  requisites  for  "a  good 
time,  generally."  In  all  my  frontier  work  and  intercourse, 
I  have  endeavored  to  keep  to  the  maxim  quoted  with  appro- 
bation by  Mr.  Wesley,  and  long  ago  copied  by  me  among 
the  mottoes  that  daily  meet  my  eye  in  the  old  portfolio  in 
which  I  now  write:  "Homo  sum — humanum  nihil  a  me 
alienum  puto." 

Acting  upon  this  principle  I  visited  their  encampment, 
conversed  freely  a  few  moments,  passed  no  direct  censure, 


SABBATH  ON  THE  PLAINS.          417 

found  two  sick  men,  tendered  them  aid  and  medicine,  and 
returned  to  camp.  In  the  afternoon  they  sent  a  deputation 
to  invite  me  to  preach  to  them.  I  readily  consented,  and 
an  hour  after  had — to  myself  at  least — a  comfortable  season 
in  inviting  the  "laboring  and  heavy  laden  "  to  come  to 
Christ,  felt  my  heart  strongly  drawn  out  in  my  work,  found 
the  children  of  pious  parents,  spent  considerable  part  of  the 
afternoon  with  them,  they  cheerfully  uniting  in  singing  the 
"  songs  of  Zion  in  that  strange  land."  All  was  orderly 
and  quiet.  We  parted.  I  met  them  afterward  at  the  mines, 
and  they  seemed  to  feel  that  they  had  found  a  friend. 

On  this  stretch  of  road  we  met  Russell  &  Jones's  Express, 
with  fourteen  wagons  and  about  one  hundred  mules,  being 
part  of  the  stock  which  they  are  moving  from  the  Smoky 
Hill  route  to  this,  for  a  supply  of  water,  after  a  vain  effort 
to  establish  that  route. 

We  were  favored  with  cool  weather  in  the  first  half  of 
our  travel,  but  upon  this  part  of  the  way  it  has  been  op- 
pressively hot.     The  reflection  upon  the  sands  increases  the 
intensity.    I  had  not  reposed  under  the  shade  of  a  single  tree 
since  I  entered  the  Plains.     While  vainly  trying  to  screen 
myself  under  the  shade  of  the  wagon,   as  I   watched  the 
grazing  mules  at  noonday,  I  thought  of  Virgil's 
"  Tu  patulae  recubans  sub  tegmine  fagi ;" 
and  then  again  : 

"  No?  patriam  fugimus  j  nos  dulcia  linquimus  arva." 

For  a  moment  I  almost  envied  my  brethren  in  their  shady 
retreats  ;  but,  thought  I,  they  too  have  their  peculiar  trials, 
from  which  in  these  solitudes  I  am  exempted.  I  was  con- 
tent and  thankful. 

We  are  now  among  another  tribe  of  Indians,  the  Chey- 
ennes.  They  are  passing  down  in  great  numbers,  as  if 
making  some  general  removal,  with  women,  children,  and 
effects.  Their  mode  of  traveling  was  somewhat  novel  to 
me.  Instead  of  packing  all  upon  the  backs  of  their  ponies, 
they  use  the  draft.  The  tent  poles,  ten  or  twenty  in  number, 


418  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

and  about  fifteen  feet  long,  neatly  trimmed,  are  fastened 
near  one  end  to  the  back  of  a  pony,  tbe  other  ends  carefully 
adjusted  and  spread  out  at  different  angles,  so  as  to  cover 
considerable  space  as  they  rest  upon  the  ground.  About 
midway  of  these  the  baggage  is  placed,  and  the  pony  trails 
the  load  along,  not  unfrequently  displaying  considerable 
freaks  in  his  course,  driven  without  bridle  or  halter,  by  a 
squaw  or  boy  on  another  pony.  Sometimes,  instead  of 
baggage,  a  mat  bed  is  placed  on  the  poles,  a  kind  of  palan- 
quin is  constructed  over  it,  and  a  person  aged  or  infirm,  I 
suppose,  or  a  squad  of  papooses,  ride  with  all  the  grace  and 
spring  of  one  of  our  own  elliptics.  They  are  great  beggars, 
especially  for  something  to  eat.  Unable  to  make  themselves 
understood  by  words,  they  open  their  mouths  and  make 
signs  indicative  of  filling  them.  The  men,  in  most  in- 
stances, we  do  not  encourage,  but  the  women  and  children, 
who  stood  modest  and  silent,  and  only  looked  their  wants, 
we  could  not  pass  by. 

Antelopes  here  are  abundant ;  their  flesh  affords  a  grate- 
ful change  from  the  monotony  of  camp  diet.  Wolves  pay 
us  an  occasional  nightly  visit,  but  a  shot  from  the  revolver, 
always  at  hand,  disperses  them.  About  one  hundred  miles 
from  the  Crossing  brings  us  to  Beaver  Creek,  a  small,  fresh- 
looking  stream.  On  an  island  in  the  river  near  stands  a 
lone  tree,  in  the  top  of  which  is  said  to  be  placed  the  body 
of  an  Indian,  distinguished  by  this  mode  of  sepulchral 
honor.  I  approached  as  near  as  I  could  for  the  stream,  but 
the  branches  intercepted  my  view.  In  thirty  miles  more  we 
reach  Fremont's  Orchard,  a  beautiful  spot,  noted  as  a  camp- 
ing-ground. Its  name  is  indicative  of  the  size  and  shape 
of  the  trees  and  the  appearance  of  the  grove  from  a  dis- 
tance. Many  places  on  the  route  bear  the  name  of  the  dis- 
tinguished mountaineer.  For  the  last  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  I  suppose  all  the  timber  in  sight  on  the  main- 
land would  not  cover  one  section.  From  this  point  the 
supply  upon  the  river  improves,  though  still  scanty. 

A  reach  of  forty  miles  brings  us  to  old  St.  Vrain's  Fort, 


THE  OLD  FORTS — CHERRY  CREEK.       419 

near  which  we  spent  a  quiet  Sabbath.  I  inquired  its  history 
from  a  white  man,  whom  I  found  seated  in  his  lodge  with 
his  two  squaws  and  a  lot  of  papooses.  He  says  it  was 
built  by  Colonel  Bent,  for  trading  purposes.  St.  Vrain  be- 
came his  partner,  and  it  took  his  name,  thus  distinguishing 
it  from  two  forts  on  the  Arkansas  that  bear  the  same  name 
of  Bent,  "Old"  and  "New."  On  Monday  morning  we 
examined  it.  It  covers  an  area  of  perhaps  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  square,  walls  and  buildings  of  adobe,  walls  from 
ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  sufficient  to  garrison  two  hundred 
men.  Projections  at  the  corners — I  forget  the  military 
name — with  port-holes  to  rake  the  walls  with  a  shot.  Has 
been  a  place  of  considerable  strength,  now  abandoned  and 
in  decay.  Adobe  formed  from  this  soil  resists  the  weather 
better  than  any  I  have  seen  elsewhere.  Seven  miles  further 
is  Fort  Lancaster,  a  similar  structure,  but  smaller  and  more 
decayed.  In  another  seven  miles  is  Lupin's  Fort,  of  the 
same  kind  ;  this  is  occupied  by  a  ranche.  A  few  miles 
further  up  passed  a  cabin,  saw  a  man  plowing  and  some 
poultry  feeding,  reminding  us  that  we  were  not  quite  "  out 
of  humanity's  reach."  We  are  now  among  the  Arapahoe 
Indians. 

For  several  days  we  have  been  in  sight  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  with  their  snow-clad  summits.  The  first  seen  is 
Long's  Peak,  seventy  miles  distant.  The  view  is  grand 
and  majestic.  Another  stretch  and  "Pike's  Peak"  is 
gained — rather,  Cherry  Creek.  We  are  in  Denver  and 
Auraria.  The  cognomen  of  Pike's  Peak  is  lost. 


420  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION. 


LETTER    V. 

DENVER— AURARIA— OTHER    TOWNS— MINING 
REGION— INDIANS. 

DENVER  CITY  and  Auraria  are  situated,  the  former  below 
and  the  latter  above  the  mouth  of  Cherry  Creek,  which  is 
here  only  a  dry,  sandy  channel  all  this  season,  though  it 
affords  running  water  further  up.*  They  are,  of  course, 
rival  cities.  Each  has  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  houses 
and  shanties  of  different  grade  ;  generally  of  pine  or  cot- 
tonwood  logs,  earth-covered,  and  ftoorless,  with  a  few 
respectable  frame  buildings.  Denver  is  now  taking  the 
lead  in  improvements.  A  number  of  good  buildings  is 
being  erected.  Each  has  its  hotel,  store,  groceries,  me- 
chanic shops,  and  liquor  stands  in  abundance.  The  Pollock 
House,  in  Auraria,  is  kept  in  a  comfortable  and  orderly 
manner  by  a  gentlemanly  proprietor.  He  has  opened  a 
large  upper  room  for  public  worship.  Each  has  its  post- 
office,  claiming  to  be  the  only  authorized  United  States 
post-office  in  the  country,  while  some  deny  the  legality  of 
both.  Each  does  an  immense  business  in  receiving  and 
forwarding  letters,  making  its  own  extra  charges  for  express 
carriage,  posting  written  lists  of  letters,  etc. 

Gambling  is  carried  on  on  a  large  scale,  and  in  various 
forms,  in  Denver,  perhaps  in  Auraria  also,  though  less 
openly.  The  towns  constitute  the  places  of  arrival  and 
departure,  and  consequently  congregate  the  unemployed  and 
vicious.  There  are  many  worthy  and  reliable  residents, 
but  the  better  part  of  the  population  is  in  the  mines.  Still, 


*  The  entire  channel  of  Cherry  Creek  is  now  built  over,  and  the  two 
rival  places  are  united  as  one  city,  under  the  common  name  of  Denver. 
1863. 


TOWNS — FOURTH   OF  JULY.  421 

the  general  state  of  society  is  orderly  and  quiet ;  no  civil 
man  need  fear  interruption.  These  places  will  probably 
continue  to  constitute  the  head-quarters  for  the  mining 
region,  though  efforts  are  being  made  to  draw  emigration 
immediately  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  by  the  establish- 
ment of  a  free  ferry  below.  Lots  in  Denver  sell  at  from 
thirty  to  four  hundred  dollars. 

Montania,  about  six  miles  above  Cherry  Creek,  consists 
of  about  twenty  vacated  cabins.  This  was  the  seat  of  some 
early  mining  operations,  and  considerable  time  and  labor 
have  been  expended  in  prospecting,  ditching,  etc.;  but  the 
diggings  upon  the  Platte  and  Cherry  Creek  are  now  almost 
entirely  abandoned  for  those  in  the  mountains.  Douglas 
City  is  placed  by  the  maps  below  some  distance  ;  but  we 
have  to  return  it  non  est  inventus.  Golden  City,  Arapahoe, 
and  Rocky  Mountain  City,  alias  Golden  Gate,  are  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  and  consist  mainly,  as  yet,  of  assem- 
blages of  booths,  tents,  and  wagons,  used  indiscriminately 
for  purposes  of  residence  or  of  business.  Bowlder  City  is 
at  the  base,  some  twenty  miles  lower  down.  Mountain  City 
is  at  Gregory's  diggings,  with  about  one  hundred  cabins 
and  innumerable  structures  of  the  lighter  kind.  The  South 
Platte  here  does  not  exceed  one  hundred  yards  in  width, 
and  is  easily  fordable  at  low  water.  There  are  a  good 
bridge  and  a  good  ferry,  each  with  moderate  charges.  The 
first  aspect  of  Denver  and  Auraria  is  unexpectedly  pleasant 
to  the  weary  Pike's  Peaker,  and  the  accommodations  quite 
beyond  expectation.  Some  six  or  eight  small  steam  saw- 
mills are  at  work  at  various  points ;  hitherto,  the  lumber  for 
building  sluices,  etc.,  has  mostly  been  prepared  by  the  whip- 
saw  and  broad-ax. 

The  Fourth  of  July  was  an  interesting  day  in  Denver, 
the  first  Rocky  Mountain  celebration  of  our  National  Inde- 
pendence. A  few  days  previous  I  was  invited  by  my  friend, 
Gen.  Larimer,  formerly  of  Pittsburg,  and  late  of  Nebraska 
Territory,  to  attend  and  participate.  The  exercises  were 
opened  with  prayer;  the  Declaration  was  read,  followed  by 


422  OUTPOSTS   OP   ZION. 

a  chaste  and  appropriate  oration  ;  intervals  were  enlivened 
by  music  from  a  band  ;  and  all  closed  with  the  benedic- 
tion. No  drinking,  swearing,  carousing — all  orderly  and 
quiet. 

The  mountain  range  here  presents  two  separate  and  par- 
allel ridges,  say  forty  or  fifty  miles  distant  from  each  other ; 
encircled  between  is  what  is  called  the  "Middle  Park,"  or 
"Old  Park,"  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square.  Here  is  the 
source  of  Grand  River,  or  Rio  Colorado,  which  forms  at 
its  mouth  the  Gulf  of  California.  Above  and  below  are 
"  South  Park"  and  "North  Park,"  similarly  environed  by 
the  mountains.  The  summit  of  the  eastern  ridge  is  the 
recognized  line  between  Utah  on  the  west  and  Kansas  and 
Nebraska  east.  These  summits  are  regions  of  perpetual 
snow.  The  course  of  the  Platte  here  is  a  little  east  of 
north,  and  that  of  the  mountains  bears  slightly  west  of 
north ;  thus  deviating  somewhat  from  a  parallel,  and 
widening  the  intervening  space  as  you  go  north.  Taking 
Denver  and  Auraria  as  the  starting-point,  it  is  about  fifteen 
miles  to  the  mountain  base.  From  this  to  the  eastern  summit 
is  about  forty  miles.  About  half-way  up  are  the  principal 
mountain  diggings  now  worked,  ranging  through  a  space 
of  about  forty  miles  from  north  to  south ;  so  that  they  are 
about  twenty  miles  from  the  Utah  line.  The  latitude  of 
Cherry  Creek — Denver  and  Auraria — is  thirty-nine  degrees, 
forty-three  minutes,  fifty-three  seconds.  The  line  dividing 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  is  the  fortieth  parallel.  This  would 
fix  Denver  and  Auraria  a  little  over  one-fourth  of  a  degree 
south  of  the  Nebraska  line,  and  embrace  nearly  or  quite  all 
the  present  diggings  in  Kansas.  Bowlder  diggings  must  be 
near  the  line.  Some  of  the  recent  alleged  discoveries  are  in 
Nebraska,  and  a  vast  field  to  be  explored.  The  elevation  at 
the  base  of  the  mountains  is  from  six  to  seven  thousand 
feet  above  tide  water,  or  about  five  thousand  above  the 
country  upon  the  more  contiguous  points  of  Missouri  River, 
making  an  average  descent  of  nearly  nine  feet  per  mile. 
The  mining  region  is  mainly  watered  by  Vasquer's  Fork,  or 


UTAH  INDIANS — ARAPAHOES.  423 

Clear  Creek,  with  its  small  tributaries.  It  is  a  rocky,  rapid, 
and  almost  unfordable  mountain  current  of  sixty  to  one 
hundred  feet  wide.  It  is  bridged  at  several  points.  The 
country  upon  the  Platte,  for  miles  up  and  down,  as  well  as 
at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  is  literally  lined  with  ranches, 
tents,  and  wagons,  and  peopled  with  human  beings. 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  news  was  received  of  the  murder 
of  two  men  in  the  mountains  by  the  Utah  Indians — Mr. 
Kennedy,  of  our  neighboring  town  of  Plattesmouth,  N.  T., 
and  Dr.  Shank,  late  of  Council  Bluffs.  I  have  since,  in  the 
mountains,  had  a  detail  of  the  circumstances  from  Mr. 
Slaughter,  who  was  with  them,  and  himself  narrowly  es- 
caped with  life.  His  statement  is  before  the  public.  An 
expedition  was  hastily  gotten  up  of  miners,  with  the  aid  of 
a  band  of  Arapahoes,  to  go  out  and  chastise  them  ;  but  it 
was  ill-planned,  ill-provisioned,  ill-manned,  and  ended  in  a 
general  carousal  on  or  near  the  Snowy  Ridge.  Several  ex- 
planations are  given.  Some  say  that  the  Utes  are  armed 
and  instigated  by  the  Mormons.  Others  belreve  that  the 
whole  thing  was  a  mere  ruse  of  the  Arapahoes,  to  embroil 
the  whites  with  the  Utes,  and  thereby  secure  aid  against 
their  deadly  enemies  ;  that  the  offending  Indians  were  really 
Arapahoes  and  not  Utes.  Certain  it  is,  that  the  two  tribes 
are  exceedingly  hostile  to  each  other.  The  Utes — a  mean 
and  treacherous  tribe — are  the  superiors  in  numbers,  horse- 
manship, and  knowledge  of  the  mountain  prsses,  where  all 
the  fighting  is  done,  and  always  come  off  best.  Efforts 
have  been  made  before  to  enlist  the  whites  against  them. 
But  all  this  is  a  conjecture.*  The  Sioux,  Cheyennes,  and 
Arapahoes  are  decidedly  a  better  class  of  Indians,  and  ex- 
hibit more  of  competence  and  comfort  than  the  indigenous 
tribes  nearer  the  State  lines.  From  long  intercourse  with 
most  of  our  Western  tribes,  I  am  able  to  communicate  by 
words  and  signs  with  an  Indian  of  almost  any  tribe. 


*  P.  S.  at  home.     A  mountaineer  of  a  party  that  went  out  to  bury  the 
bodies,  has,  I  see,  pronounced  the  scalping  "Arapahoe  work." 


424  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


LETTER   VI. 

STAY  UPON  SOUTH  PL  A  T  TE  — RE  M  0  V  AL  TO  THE 
BASE  — MULE  RIDE  UPON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

ARRIVED  at  Denver  and  Auraria,  we  soon  found  ourselves 
recognized  and  surrounded  by  acquaintances,  with  eager 
inquiries  for  friends  at  home,  and  on  the  way ;  ours  being 
the  latest  and  speediest  arrival  from  the  States.  And, 
indeed,  these  scenes  of  recognition  have  been  repeated 
every-where,  by  friends  and  not  friends ;  those  of  good  and 
of  evil  report,  whom  we  had  known  elsewhere.  But  it  has 
long  been  a  settled  rule  with  me  to  regard  and  treat  every 
man  in  the  character  he  bears  in  the  community  where  he 
now  resides,  and  not  in  that  previously  borne.  Let  by- 
gones be  by-gones.  If  a  man  is  trying  to  assume  a  better 
character,  encourage  him,  unless  in  the  few  cases  where 
duty  requires  an  exposure.  I  must  in  justice  say,  however, 
that  the  great  body  of  Rocky  Mountain  miners  and  settlers 
are  intelligent  and  worthy  men. 

Our  first  object  was  to  find  sustenance  for  our  jaded 
animals.  For  this  we  were  compelled  to  go  some  four 
miles  up  the  Platte.  Here  we  encamped  with  the  design  of 
resting.  But  our  resting  spell  was  taken  up  in  repairs, 
overhauling  baggage,  attention  to  team,  and  sundry  camp 
duties,  correspondence,  etc.;  at  intervals,  spending  what 
time  we  could  in  the  towns,  gathering  items,  forming  ac- 
quaintances, and  preparations  for  our  further  work.  The 
first  Sabbath  after  our  arrival  we  had  notices  out  for 
preaching  in  the  towns,  morning  and  afternoon,  and  an 
interest  seemed  to  be  felt  in  the  matter.  But  no  one  was 
sufficiently  interested  to  make  a  business  of  circulating 
them  ;  and  our  exceeding  modesty,  as  strangers,  had  led 
us,  for  this  time,  to  commit  the  arrangement  to  others. 


RALLYING  A   CONGREGATION.  425 

As  the  hour  approached,  finding  our  congregation  likely  to 
be  rather  slim,  I  went  around  to  the  crowds,  however  en- 
gaged, personally  invited  them  in,  and  at  length  succeeded 
in  obtaining  a  tolerable  assemblage.  Allen  Wiley  once 
said  in  my  hearing,  "Methodist  preachers  are  in  a  pushing 
world,  and  they  must  push  too."  This  applies  peculiarly 
to  frontier  work,  and  ever  after  I  practiced  upon  it.  When- 
ever necessary — for  at  some  points,  even  here,  it  is  not — I 
have  posted  written  notices,  then  mounted  a  mule  and  rode 
around  the  evening  previous  to  ranches,  houses,  booths, 
tents,  wagons,  liquor  stands,  and  card-tables,  and  from  all 
these  places  have  invited  them  out.  But  one  of  the  most 
effectual  means,  after  all,  is  to  sing  them  up ;  and  in  this  I 
have  a  most  efficient  aid  in  the  fine  musical  powers  of 
brother  Adriance.  There  is  a  power  in  song ;  and  perhaps  no 
where  else  more  felt  and  seen  than  here  among  those  so  long 
absent  from  religious  associations.  We  never  failed  to 

collect  a  group  in  a  short  time.     At  G I  preached  in 

a  large  cloth  pavilion,  called  "the  round  tent,"  known  as  a 
leading  gambling  establishment.  One  inquired  of  me, 
while  I  was  employed  circulating  notices,  "Will  they  stop 
gaming  long  enough?"  They  did,  but  claimed  the  hour 
succeeding  for  their  own  purposes.  I  treated  them  kindly, 
and  they,  in  return,  listened  respectfully,  and  allowed  me, 
without  offense,  to  preach  home  truths  to  them  in  all  plain- 
ness and  fidelity.  Right  here  I  made  a  partial  organization 
of  a  society.  They  treated  me  courteously,  and  agreed  to 
let  me  preach  there  again.  Thus,  I  still  keep  to  the  motto, 
"Homo  sum,"  etc.  By  the  way,  I  have  preached  in  nearly 
all  the  early  hotels  in  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  in  the  bar-rooms. 

Time  came  at  length  for  the  removal  of  our  head-quarters  ; 
we  pulled  up  stakes  and  were  off  for  the  mountains.  A 
day's  drive  brought  us  to  the  base.  Grass  was  scarce,  wood 
entirely  wanting.  Withal,  we  wished  to  locate  our  camp 
as  near  the  diggings,  the  principal  scene  of  action,  as  prac- 
ticable ;  so  we  resolved  to  enter  the  gulch,  or  cannon,  which 

36 


426  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

constitutes  the  inlet,  and  proceed  as  far  as  we  could,  know- 
ing that  wood  and  water  would  be  abundant,  and  hoping  to 
find  pasture  on  the  mountain  sides.  Boldly  we  advanced, 
but  a  very  little  experience  convinced  us  that  courage  would 
avail  us  nothing  ;  a  few  jolts  and  tumbles  with  our  load 
over  the  crags  and  cliffs,  a  sudden  stand-still  of  our  donkey 
team  upon  a  rocky  ascent,  simply  because  they  could  n't  get 
up,  with  a  few  hundred  yards  of  "prospecting"  at  the  ad- 
vance scenery,  soon  convinced  us  that  it  was  "no  go."  So, 
making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  we  summarily  backed  down, 
and,  with  considerable  ado,  got  our  wagon  headed  round, 
got  a  drink  of  water  from  a  clear  spring,  took  in  wood  for 
the  night,  passed  out  of  the  gulch  at  the  same  door  by  which 
we  had  entered,  as  bravely  as  "the  King  of  France  with 
forty  thousand  men,"  and  sought  a  spot  for  repose  at  the 
base,  putting  our  animals  upon  short  allowance  after  a  hard 
day's  travel.  Since  that,  we  have  not  undertaken  to  make 
our  team  haul  a  loaded  wagon  up  the  steeps  of  the  Kocky 
Mountains.  Many  lessons  in  mountain  traveling  have  been 
taken  since.  On  the  next  day  a  convenient  spot  was  sought 
for  forage,  and  found  a  few  miles  distant,  just  at  the  en- 
trance of  a  beautiful  valley  which  leads  up  into  the  main 
gulches.  There  we  planted  ourselves  as  our  head-quarters 
during  our  mountain  explorations.  The  site  was  selected, 
the  wagon  drawn  up  in  proper  direction,  the  tent  pitched, 
the  mules  picketed  out,  and  all  arrangements  made  for  a 
home  to  which  we  might  go  in  and  out  till  time  should 
come  to  strike  tent  and  return  to  the  banks  of  the  Platte. 
There,  patriarchally ,  I  "digged  a  well,"  as  in  primitive 
nomadic  times,  yea,  several  of  them,  as  my  weary  limbs 
would  now  testify.  From  this  spot,  still  occupied,  the 
present  sketch  is  penned. 

Our  temporary  residence  adjusted,  our  ranche  man  left  in 
charge,  we — brother  A.  and  myself — the  succeeding  morn- 
ing set  off  for  the  mountain  diggings,  he  upon  his  saddle 
horse,  I  upon  the  back  of  my  faithful  mule,  Bob,  a  noble 
steed,  over  fifteen  hands  high,  safe  and  sure,  but,  like  others 


CLIMBING   THE   MOUNTAIN.  427 

of  his  species,  somewhat  self-willed  ;  each  packed  to  the  full 
measure  of  comfort,  and  a  little  beyond,  with  provisions, 
blankets,  light  camp  utensils,  and  sundry  et  ccetera  requisite 
for  the  trip.  At  an  early  hour  in  the  day  we  re-entered  the 
gulch,  memorable  as  the  scene  of  our  former  defeat,  but  in 
better  plight  to  meet  its  obstacles,  brother  A.,  as  is  his 
wont,  patiently  taking  a  steady,  uniform  gait,  and  I,  accord- 
ing to  my  impulses,  rather  urging  on,  and  unconsciously — 
I  had  almost  said  instinctively — bringing  the  spur  to  bear 
upon  the  side  of  my  steed,  as  crag  after  crag  presented  itself 
and  was  overcome.  Pope's  line  came  forcibly  up — 

"Hills  peep  o'er  hills,  and  Alps  on  Alps  arise." 

The  first  ten  miles  of  the  road  is  up  the  gulch,  crossing 
and  recrossing  a  little  mountain  stream  perhaps  one  hund- 
red times,  with  its  rough,  steep  acclivities  and  declivities. 
The  mountain  spurs  on  either  hand  are  always  "rocky," 
sometimes  bare,  generally  thinly  clad  with  a  growth  of 
small  pine,  rarely  reaching  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 
Balsam  fir  is  abundant.  The  timbered  lands  all  the  way 
are  said  to  be  already  "claimed  up."  Extensive  fires  in 
the  mountains  have  been  lately  destructive  of  timber  and 
grass,  and  several  human  lives  have  fallen  victims.  Here, 
also,  mica  or  isinglass-stone  is  found  in  great  quantities, 
glistening  in  the  dust  of  the  road,  and  giving  it  a  glossy, 
velvet-like  appearance.  Every  thing  here  smacks  of  gold. 
Even  the  bottom  of  my  well  "raised  the  color"  to  my  un- 
practiced  eye.  Leaving  the  gulch,  we  cross  several  high 
spurs  difficult  in  ascent  and  descent.  Here  I  fell  in  with  a 
traveling  preacher  from  one  of  our  Conferences,  on  foot, 
bearing  his  pack  of  some  forty  or  fifty  pounds  weight  hero- 
ically and  uncomplainingly  up  the  mountain  steeps — a  new 
phase  of  itinerancy.  Kindly  remembering  the  injunction, 
"Bear  ye  one  another's  burdens,"  I  took  his  pack  for  a 
time,  and  added  it  to  my  already  unwieldy  load. 

Soon  after,  we  entered  a  small,  narrow  valley,  affording 
for  a  time  an  easier  ascent  and  freer  breathing.  Here  the 


428  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

scenery  became  magnificent.  Masses  of  rock  on  either 
hand  rise  to  an  almost  bewildering  hight,  now  in  naked 
grandeur,  then  crowned  with  lofty  evergreens.  I  have  trav- 
ersed and  admired  the  Ozarks  and  the  Alleghanies,  but 
never  before  have  I  seen  any  thing  to  compare  with  this 
truly-Alpine  scenery.  Silently  I  recurred  to  the  exclama- 
tion of  the  departed  Bascom,  on  taking  his  first  view  of  the 
Niagara  cataract,  "  God  of  grandeur,  what  a  scene  !" 

The  road  presents  one  continued  stream  of  travel ;  wag- 
ons, carts,  footmen,  going,  returning;  horses,  mules,  oxen, 
cows,  men,  packed  to  the  utmost  stretch  of  capacity  ;  breech- 
ing to  the  body  of  every  animal  capable  of  wearing  such 
harness,  even  sometimes  to  the  riding  saddles  ;  the  road 
filled  with  dust,  coal-blackened  by  the  late  mountain  fires, 
and  visages  so  begrimed  that  every  downward  passenger 
might  well  be  taken  for  a  collier  just  emerging  from  his 
subterranean  cavern.  It  is  computed  that  five  hundred  per- 
sons pass  over  this  road  daily.  And  this  is  the  ''new 
road,"  the  improved  road,  the  older  being  almost  entirely 
abandoned  because  of  its  still  greater  difficulty.  So  passed 
our  first  day  in  the  mountains.  Weary  and  jaded,  we 
sought  a  small  secluded  vale,  picketed  our  animals,  built 
our  fire,  took  our  frugal  meal,  joined  in  praise  and  prayer, 
and  laid  ourselves  down  to  rest,  our  pedestrian  itinerant  and 
his  comrades  being  now  of  our  company. 

The  night  passed  well  but  for  the  extreme  cold,  for 
which  our  packed  bed-robe  was  insufficient.  Aroused  by 
its  severity,  we  would  rise,  pile  on  fresh  fuel  from  the  fallen 
pines,  light  up  the  whole  glen  with  the  blaze,  warm  our- 
selves, and  lie  down  again  till  compelled  to  repeat  the  oper- 
ation ;  the  same  scene  had  to  be  repeated  again  and  again 
during  our  mountain  stay.  With  such  "  surroundings,"  a 
morning  lounge  has  nothing  very  irlviting.  It  is  no  boast 
of  superior  industry  to  say  that  coffee  was  taken  early — this 
morning  I  made  it  myself — arid  vre  were  again  packed  and 
in  the  saddle — I  will  not  say  with  the  sun,  for  "  sunrise"  is 
a  vague  term  in  these  mountain  recesses.  And  now  again 


THE   DESCENT.  429 

up  and  down,  over  high,  rugged  spurs  for  miles.  By  and 
by  we  came  to  a  descent  of  greater  length  and  difficulty. 
Slowly  and  cautiously  A.  leads  his  steady  horse,  while  I, 
less  careful  or  less  competent,  pertinaciously  adhere  to  the 
saddle,  from  a  conviction  that  a  mule  is  not  altogether  "  a 
vain  thing  for  safety."  The  descent  made,  we  are  at  Greg- 
ory Diggings. 


430  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 


LETTER   VII. 

DISCOVERIE  S— S  TAY    IN    THE    MINE  S— S  A  B  B  A  T  H 
AT    GREGORY'S. 

NOT  contemplating  a  personal  connection  with  the  mining 
region,  my  attention  had  not  been  particularly  turned  to  its 
history ;  and  since  entering  upon  the  miner's  life — for, 
while  here,  I  claim  to  be  a  miner,  too,  in  my  department — 
time  has  not  allowed  me.  The  first  knowledge  I  have  of 
operations  is  the  arrival  of  the  Messrs.  Russel  and  their 
company,  from  Georgia,  with  others  from  different  sections, 
at  Cherry  Creek,  in  June  of  last  year,  1858.  Altogether, 
the  number  then  here  was  over  one  hundred  ;  but  the  num- 
ber was  soon  greatly  reduced  by  the  return  of  a  large  ma- 
jority. Those  who  remained,  however,  were  energetic, 
persevering  men,  who  understood  their  business.  They 
"prospected"  the  country  bordering  on  the  South  Platte, 
and  still  on  southward,  till  they  reached  the  borders  of  New- 
Mexico.  Gold  was  found  in  various  places,  especially  along 
the  Platte  and  in  the  region  of  Cherry  Creek  ;  and  this, 
though  in  few  instances  remunerative  in  amount,  sufficed  as 
the  foundation  of  the  exaggerated  statements  that  had 
gained  credence  in  the  States,  and  allured  such  vast  multi- 
tudes away  from  their  homes  and  industrial  pursuits.  But 
the  problem  in  the  minds  of  thinking  men  and  experienced 
miners  still  remained  unsolved:  "  Whence  has  this  gold 
drifted?"  To  them  it  was  evident  that  richer  deposits  were 
somewhere  imbedded  in  more  elevated  positions.  They  had 
prospected  in  vain  southwardly ;  and  now  Winter  set  in  and 
closed  their  operations.  The  little  band,  nothing  daunted, 
spent  the  Winter  at  the  mouth  of  Cherry  Creek  and  vicinity. 
The  snows  had  not  fully  passed  off  from  the  mountain 


DISCOVERIES — MINING   PROCESS.  431 

slopes  till  these  hardy  adventurers  were  again  out  prospect- 
ing. Mr.  Gregory,  also  of  Georgia,  and  others,  had  been 
added  to  their  number.  And,  by  the  way,  the  Georgians  are 
decidedly  the  most  successful  prospectors  and  miners  in  the 
country.  The  mines  here  are  said  in  character  very  closely 
to  resemble  those  of  Georgia,  while  they  are  wholly  unlike 
those  of  California  ;  and  hence  a  Georgia  schooling  is  of 
immense  advantage,  while  California  experience  is  of  little 
value,  and  often  positively  misleads.  In  May  last  Gregory 
discovered  the  diggings  that  bear  his  name,  and  have  so  well 
remunerated  his  personal  enterprise  and  perseverance.  But 
these  facts  are  already  spread  before  the  public  in  the  report 
of  Mr.  Greeley.  About  the  same  time,  or  soon  after,  the 
Uussels  made  their  discoveries  in  what  is  now  called  Russel's 
Gulch  ;  the  most  uniformly  remunerative,  I  think,  of  any 
yet  found  ;  owing,  in  part,  doubtless,  to  the  fact  that  they 
are  the  best  worked.  Since  that,  discovery  after  discovery 
has  been  made ;  diggings  after  diggings,  bearing  different 
names,  and  many  without  name. 

Immediately  in  the  diggings,  the  whole  space  is  taken  up 
for  miles  in  "claims"  of  one  hundred  feet  by  fifty,  these 
are  duly  recorded  by  an  appointed  officer  ;  while  on  every 
gulch,  and  ravine,  and  branch  are  seen  tents,  mines,  sluices, 
at  greater  or  smaller  intervals,  and  the  mountain  sides  liter- 
ally dug  into  holes,  searching  for  quartz  leads.  Sluices, 
long-toms,  and  rockers  are  well  manned,  and  along  the 
brooks  are  seen  prospectors  with  their  single  panfuls  of 
gravel,  or  decomposed  quartz,  washing,  sifting,  examining 
for  the  precious  metal.  I  was  forcibly' reminded  of  Dr. 
Clarke's  comment  upon  "Epsuva-rs  raq  ypayat;."  John  v,  39. 
Machinery  is  greatly  needed  and  will  soon  be  supplied.  A 
large  number  of  quartz-mills  have  been  sent  for.  Then  the 
material  and  the  water  have  to  be  brought  together.  Slides 
bring  the  quartz  down  the  mountain  sides  to  the  water  ;  it 
is  hauled  in  wagons  and  carts  ;  it  is  packed  on  rnules,  oxen, 
and  the  shoulders  of  men.  Ditches,  often  of  considerable 
length,  depth,  and  cost,  convey  the  water  to  the  sluices 


432  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

dams  are  constructed,  and  the  channels  of  streams  turned ; 
water-wheels  are  used  where  there  is  a  sufficient  stream,  and 
the  water  elevated  in  buckets  ;  blasting  is  required  in  the 
leads ;  tunneling  under  rocks  is  sometimes  necessary  in 
ditching.  The  labor  is  immense  and  of  the  severest  charac- 
ter ;  it  is  one  continued  scene  of  bustle  and  activity.  Miners 
complain  that  they  easily  "get  out  of  breath"  in  walking 
or  laboring ;  they  can  not  perform  as  much  labor  as  else- 
where. This  is  easily  accounted  for  by  the  rarefied  con- 
dition of  the  atmosphere  at  this  elevation.  I  thought  I  ex- 
perienced the  same  thing  in  speaking,  but  I  do  not  learn 
that  it  has  any  bad  influence  upon  health. 

It  is  difficult  to  be  secreted,  and  almost  absolutely  impos- 
sible to  be  lost  long,  even  in  the  mountain  recesses,  till 
some  one  will  find  you.  Of  this  we  had  proof.  Endeav- 
oring to  follow  directions  one  day  to  a  point  we  wished  to 
reach,  some  eight  or  ten  miles  distant,  we  missed  our  way  ; 
ascended  with  great  difficulty,  through  a  thick  undergrowth 
of  pine,  an  elevated  mountain  summit.  The  prospect  was 
grand.  Hard  by,  and  almost  upon  an  apparent  level  with 
our  own  position>  were  seen  the  "eternal  snows  ;"  while  be- 
low yawned  immense  labyrinths,  revealing,  here  and  there, 
the  smoke  of  some  miner's  tent,  miles  in  the  distance  be- 
neath. Surely,  thought  we,  here  is  a  spot  where  "  our  right 
there  is  none  to  dispute ;"  we  shall  not  see  the  face  of  man 
here.  I  had  almost  involuntarily  imitated  the  soldier  who, 
having  strayed  from  camp,  and  gained  a  commanding  emi- 
nence, transported  with  the  prospect  cried  out:  "ATTEN- 
TION THE  UNIVERSE BY  KINGDOMS  ON  THE  RIGHT  WHEEL 

MARCH."  Bewildered  as  we  were,  and  unknowing  when  or 
where  we  should  find  ourselves,  we  deliberately  loosed  our 
fatigued  and  almost  famished  animals,  and  turned  them 
out  to  graze  upon  a  rich  spot  of  food,  while  we  enjoyed 
the  prospect.  Soon  our  reverie  was  broken  by  a  noise. 
"  What 's  that  ?"  said  A.  "  A  fellow  whistling,"  I  replied. 
"  O,  no,"  said  he,  "it  is  some  animal!"  Just  then  a 
company  of  prospecters  came  up,  and  the  point  was  settled. 


STAY   WITH   THE   MINERS.  433 

The  roads  and  trails  around  the  mountains  are  deceptive  in 
course  and  distance,  as  we  more  than  once  found  to  our 
cost ;  not  unlike  the  streets  of  the  good  city  of  Boston. 
Take  one  that  seems  to  lead  in  the  right  direction,  and  it  is 
very  uncertain  when  or  where  you  will  come  out. 

Some  days  were  agreeably  spent  here  and  in  the  vicinity, 
visiting  different  localities,  and  enjoying  the  camp  hospi- 
tality of  friends  known  and  cherished  elsewhere.  Some 
abatement,  however,  was  found  in  the  unpleasant  necessity 
of  retiring  at  night  some  miles  to  find  a  scanty  subsistence 
for  our  animals,  and  lying  by  them  in  the  cold  mountain 
air,  fresh  from  regions  of  snow.  Severe  as  it  was,  it  did 
not  affect  our  health. 

Of  our  Sabbath  services  I  have  already  spoken,  through 
another  channel.  Our  arrival,  just  when  we  did,  seemed  to 
be  Heaven-directed.  Here  is  the  great  mining  center,  and 
by  far  the  largest  population.  Among  them  are  many 
Church  members ;  Methodists  of  all  types  known  in  the 
country  ;  Baptists,  Presbyterians,  Congregationalists,  with 
a  number  of  preachers — miners — of  the  different  persua- 
sions, serving  them  alternately.  Preachers  were  expected 
from  our  Conference,  but  a&  yet  in  vain.  The  people  were 
clamorous  for  organization,  but  no  one  felt  authorized  to  go 
forward,  at  least  as  far  as  Methodism  was  concerned.  A 
day  was  at  length  announced  for  organizing  "a  Church;" 
but  there  seemed  no  definite  understanding  as  to  what  de- 
nominational form  it  should  assume,  and  all  appeared 
diffident  in  taking  the  lead.  On  the  Friday  preceding  the 
appointed  Sabbath  we  arrived.  Almost  my  first  step  was 
to  wait  upon  several  of  the  ministers.  Rev.  Mr.  P.,  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South,  a  Georgian,  highly 
esteemed  here  as  a  minister,  was  to  preach  in  the  morning. 
He  courteously  invited  me  to  take  his  place.  All  welcomed 
us  cordially.  No  question  was  raised  as  to  the  character  of 
the  organization.  All  assented,  the  very  large  majority  be- 
ing members  of  our  Church.  We  went  forward  in  the 
duties  of  the  day.  The  morning  preaching  was  in  the 

37 


434  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

crowded,  dusty  street,  to  a  large  and  orderly  congregation  ; 
the  afternoon  experience  meeting  in  a  retired  spot  upon  the 
rocky  seats  of  a  mountain  spur ;  the  vows  of  reconsecra- 
tion,  the  weepings,  the  rejoicings,  will  not  be  forgotten 
in  time.  There  are  probably  one  hundred  members  of  our 
Church  at  this  point.  Of  this  number  nearly  one  half 
united  at  once,  with  some  probationers.  The  organization 
is  imperfect,  and  is  left  in  charge  of  the  preacher  having 
charge  of  the  "Rocky  Mountain  mission,"  the  name  as- 
signed to  that  part  of  the  work.  I  carefully  took  down  the 
names  and  late  residences  of  all  the  applicants  for  member- 
ship, and  left  a  copy  for  record.  In  taking  the  name  and 
residence  of  an  interesting  young  man,  I  was  deeply  affected 
to  find  the  son  of  one  of  my  best  and  dearest  friends  of  by- 
gone years,  brother  B.  T.,  of  Jefferson  county,  Indiana,  a 
devoted  man  of  God,  who  passed  from  earth  to  heaven  dur- 
ing the  past  year,  while  a  number  of  others  had  been  in 
my  charges  in  various  places,  some  in  official  standing. 
But  for  the  arrival  of  an  authorized  person  there  would, 
perhaps,  have  been  a  temporary  fusion  of  the  different 
shades  of  Methodism,  as  has  since  been  the  case  with  some 
other  Churches  there.  On  Monday  morning  a  quarterly 
meeting  conference  was  organized.  Truly  "the  fields  are 
white  unto  harvest." 

By  common  consent  the  question  of  slavery  is  not  raised  ; 
the  antislavery  position  of  the  population  being  taken  pro 
confesso. 


OTHER   DIGGINGS.  435 


LETTER   Till. 

OTHER    DIGGINGS  — YANKEE    ENTERPRISE- 
CHARACTER    OF    POPULATION. 

OUR  time  allotted  for  stay  at  the  Gregory  Diggings  being 
expired,  we  took  up  the  line  of  march  for  the  more  south- 
erly portions  of  the  mining  district — those  more  recently 
discovered.  First  came  the  Central  Diggings;  next  we 
entered  Russel's,  of  which  I  have  before  spoken.  Here  I 
found  another  member  of  an  Annual  Conference,  a  stout 
Hibernian,  in  a  pit,  wielding  the  shovel  most  manfully — 
since  gone  to  California.  At  this  plane  I  spent  some  time  ; 
purchased  some  dust  and  a  small  nugget  as  specimens ;  pro- 
cured a  specimen  of  lead  quartz,  also  of  burnt  quartz,  and 
of  rose  or  blossom  quartz  ;  the  last  two  being  mere  surface 
indications  by  which  prospecters  are  guided  in  their  re- 
searches. Passing  these,  we  laid  our  course  for  the  dig- 
gings on  Clear  Creek,  which  we  had  failed  to  reach  the 
week  previous,  by  missing  our  way,  as  stated  before.  This 
time  we  took  the  beaten  trail  down  a  gulch,  over  almost 
impracticable  spurs  and  crags,  so  steep  that,  when  we 
stopped  to  coralle  at  noon,  we  could  scarcely  find  a  spot 
where  our  baggage  would  lie  without  rolling  to  the  bottom. 
The  practice  is  to  take  the  wagon  or  cart  in  with  the  team 
as  far  as  possible,  then  unload,  and  pack  through  on  the 
backs  of  beasts,  or  the  shoulders  of  men,  to  the  places 
otherwise  inaccessible,  leaving  the  wagon,  if  need  be,  cabled 
to  a  pine-tree  by  a  log-chain,  lest  it  should  incontinently 
rush  to  the  bottom  by  the  power  of  gravitation.  While 
coralling  in  this  narrow  defile  we  were  passed  by  a  large 
train  of  Mexicans,  packing  flour  from  New  Mexico.  Large 
quantities  are  brought  in  by  them.  The  flour  is  coarse,  but 


436  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

sound  and  sweet,  and  sells  several  dollars  lower  per  hundred 
than  that  from  the  States.  It  is  packed  mostly  upon  very 
small  jacks,  each  bearing  a  sack  of  about  two  hundred 
pounds,  with  one  driver  to  every  five  or  six  animals.  My 
mule  was  so  taken  up  with  his  relatives  on  the  long-eared 
side,  that  he  lost  his  appetite  for  dinner.  He  evinces  great 
affection  for  his  kindred  of  the  full  blood  on  either  side,  but 
very  little  regard  for  his  own  class,  the  hybrid  race.  In 
this,  perhaps,  he  is  not  peculiar. 

While  passing  down  the  tedious,  winding  way,  we  en- 
countered a  thunder-storm,  with  a  brisk  shower  of  rain, 
lasting  about  an  hour.  Rain  seldom  falls  in  or  near  these 
mountains,  though  the  clouds  gather  almost  daily,  with  fre- 
quent thunder  and  lightning.  From  our  position  at  the 
base,  since  our  return,  we  have  seen  the  rain  falling  in  the 
mountains  almost  daily.  It  was  unexpected,  and  found  the 
miners  in  a  very  exposed  condition.  For  a  few  days  severe 
disease — flux — prevailed  with  considerable  fatality,  but  soon 
abated.  We  had  light  showers  at  the  base. 

I  have  mentioned  Clear  Creek  as  a  rapid  mountain 
stream,  carrying  a  large  body  of  water,  but  rolling  it  off 
so  impetuously  over  the  rocks  and  bowlders,  that  it  is  com- 
pressed to  a  width  of  some  sixty  feet — a  dangerous  stream 
to  ford.  On  its  banks  and  its  smaller  tributaries,  for  many 
miles  up  and  down,  the  miners  are  thickly  strewed.  Most 
of  these  works  are  in  an  incipient  stage,  not  fully  tested. 
The  uppermost  are  Spanish  Diggings,  with  a  line  extending 
some  six  miles  up,  on  both  sides  of  the  stream.  Hero  arc 
some  Spaniards  at  work — from  whom  the  name — with 
many  Americans.  Here  I  found  a  court  in  session,  and  a 
trial  going  on.  Below  this,  crossing  to  the  south  side,  we 
come  to  Jackson's  Diggings,  at  the  mouth  of  Chicago 
Creek;  these  also  extending  quite  a  distance  up  the  latter 
stream.  Crossing  Chicago  Creek,  we  ascend  a  high  mount- 
ain, and  take  our  course  down  into  the  Clear  Creek  gulch 
again,  passing  for  miles  through  a  succession  of  new  dig- 
gings without  name ;  over  almost  impracticable  trails  on 


A   LONE   YANKEE.  437 

the  mountain  sides,  but  still  clinging  closely  to  the  back  of 
my  donkey,  rather  than  trust  myself  to  pedestrian  safety. 
In  this  deep  ravine  we  spent  one  night,  within  striking  dis- 
tance of  the  claim  of  some  friends  whom  we  were  seeking ; 
but  night  closing  in,  and  the  way,  as  we  learned,  precipitous 
and  dangerous,  we  were  forced  to  halt ;  brother  A.  kindling 
a  fire  and  lying  by  the  animals,  and  myself  seeking  a  shel- 
ter in  the  camp  of  a  hospitable  Missourian.  Off  early  in 
the  morning,  we  found  the  way  as  described.  A  short, 
rough  ride  brought  us  to  Buckeye  Diggings,  a  name  signifi- 
cant of  the  occupants,  where  we  found  our  friends,  with 
whom  we  rested  a  season.  This  is  a  new  place ;  miners 
just  getting  to  work. 

Great  differences  exist  in  the  modus  operandi  of  the  miners. 
Our  Missouri  host  of  last  night  was  discouraged,  doing  lit- 
tle ;  water  in  his  pit,  and  tools  lying  neglected  in  the  water. 
Soon  after  leaving  him  my  attention  was  arrested  by  supe- 
rior-looking machinery.  A  wheel  was  revolving  in  the 
rapid  current ;  a  shaft  extending  to  the  pit ;  another  wheel 
attached  with  band  and  buckets,  upon  the  principle  of  the 
chain-pump,  bailing  the  water  out,  and  a  lone  Yankee  seated 
hard  by,  and  watching  the  process  with  all  imaginable  sang 
froid.  Other  fixtures  about  the  sluices  gave  evidence  of  gen- 
ius and  of  enterprise.  Approaching  and  saluting  him,  I  in- 
quired :  "  From  what  point  do  the  miners  in  these  diggings 
hail?"  "Different  States,"  was  the  brisk  reply;  "some 
from  Wisconsin,  some  from  Missouri ;  I  am  from  Connect- 
icut." I  could  but  stop  and  relate  to  him  the  anecdote  of 
M.  De  Tocqueville,  winding  up  with  his  remark:  "  Dat 
Con-nec-ti-coot  von  great  place."  Others  picking,  pan- 
ning, pumping,  spading,  bailing ;  losing  half  of  their  time, 
and  much  of  their  dust ;  he  makes  the  current  and  his  ma- 
chinery do  a  large  proportion  of  his  labor. 

Passing  on  further,  saw  a  man,  apparently  seventy  or 
eighty  years  of  age,  leaning  upon  his  staff.  Strange ! 
"What,"  thought  I,  "has  brought  him  here?"  Who 
knows  ?  Perhaps  the  strong  workings  of  parental  affec- 


438  OUTPOSTS    OF   ZION. 

tion.  Now  and  then  a  tent  or  booth  is  passed,  where  supe- 
rior order  and  neatness  reign.  A  cow-bell  tinkles ;  the 
crow  and  cackle  of  Shanghais  are  heard.  Soon  all  is 
explained.  A  neatly-attired  lady  appears  as  the  presiding 
genius  of  the  institution,  moving  gracefully  about  her 
domestic  avocations  ;  a  more  comfortable  phase  of  mining 
life.  And  this  is  right.  If  men  will  go,  their  wives 
should  accompany  them.  Left  by  themselves,  men  degen- 
erate rapidly;  become  rough,  harsh,  slovenly — almost  brut- 
ish. Every  frontier-man  knows  this.  Society  of  this  kind 
is  next  to  intolerable.  Men  need  the  restraining,  elevating 
influence  of  female  society.  Women  bear  up  under  the 
hardships  of  frontier  life  as  well  or  better  than  men.  There 
are  more  females  here  than  I  should  have  supposed,  espe- 
cially in  the  towns. 

I  have  already  spoken  of  the  large  number  of  intelligent, 
well-informed  men  in  the  country.  Whoever  comes  here 
expecting  to  find  an  ignorant  community  in  which  to  play 
his  part,  will  be  sadly  mistaken.  A  spirit  of  active  enter- 
prise and  adventure  is  a  leading  characteristic.  Some, 
doubtless,  were  happy  and  prosperous  at  home ;  but,  could 
the  secret  promptings  of  each  heart  be  read,  there  would 
probably  be  revealed,  in  a  large  number  of  cases,  as  the 
moving  cause  of  the  separation  from  home  and  friends,  dis- 
appointments, embarrassments,  domestic  griefs,  and  unhap- 
piness  in  various  forms ;  many  are,  doubtless,  the  sons  of 
misfortune.  Often  I  think  I  read  it  in  the  countenance. 
But  this  fact,  if  known  to  be  true,  would  only  increase  the 
interest  felt  in  their  behalf  by  a  benevolent  and  sympa- 
thizing heart ;  and  I  feel  assured  that  it  renders  them  more 
accessible  to  kind  and  well-directed  religious  appeals. 

The  legal  profession  is  largely  represented,  with  quite  a 
respectable  proportion  of  the  clergy  of  different  Churches, 
who,  though  engaged  in  secular  pursuits,  are  generally 
respected  as  ministers.  But  the  doctors  beat  them  all. 
Signs  of  "Dr."  stick  out  from  cabins,  shanties,  tents,  and 
wagons,  and  the  title  is  heard  in  almost  every  company  in 


THE   POPULATION.  439 

the  diggings.  A  wag  at  Cherry  Creek  said  that  he  called 
oat  "Doc."  in  the  street,  and  eighteen  men  turned  round  in 
response. 

In  the  published  report  of  Mr.  Greeley,  Indianians  figure 
largely  among  the  successful  early  adventurers.  While  at 
Gregory's,  and  elsewhere,  I  sought  and  found  many  fellow- 
Hoosiers,  but  could  not  find  the  lucky  ones.  I  suppose 
they  had  "  made  their  pile,"  and  left.  Illinois  leads  in 
numbers,  Missouri  in  stampeders,  Georgia  in  successful 
prospecters  and  miners ;  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota, 
Michigan,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska  are  fairly  represented, 
with  a  "smart  sprinkling"  from  other  States,  Middle, 
North,  and  East.  There  are  a  great  many  Mexicans  com- 
ing and  going,  generally  quiet  and  well-behaved.  A  very 
large  proportion  of  the  population  are  men  in  middle  life, 
with  quite  a  number  of  men  of  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age. 
Gray  hairs  and  furrowed  cheeks  are  common.  No  schools 
are  established  yet ;  but  they  are  contemplated  soon. 


440  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 


LETTER   IX. 

BESTTLTS   AND    P  R  0  S  P  E  C  T  S  — T  H  E   CHURCH'S 
WORK  — DOWN    THE   MOUNTAIN. 

FROM  isolated  facts  it  is  sometimes  hazardous  to  draw 
general  conclusions.  So  from  the  known  and  signal  suc- 
cess of  a  few  miners,  it  will  not  do  to  infer  positively  the 
future  fate  of  the  vast  multitudes  who  may  hereafter  be 
allured  from  their  homes,  to  engage  in  the  doubtful  enter- 
prise. Doubtful  and  precarious  it  always  is.  The  history 
of  the  mining  enterprise,  so  far  as  I  have  studied  it,  has 
been  any  thing  else  but  gratifying  in  its  results  to  the  great 
mass  of  those  personally  engaged  in  it ;  especially  in  the 
incipient  stages  of  an  undertaking.  Mr.  Greeley,  in  his 
very  impartial  and  cautious  report  given  to  the  public,  has 
presented  some  instances  of  early,  marked  success.  I  might 
add  others  of  more  recent  occurrence ;  but  I  shall  not. 
For,  to  balance  these,  I  know  not  how  many  hundreds  or 
thousands  of  cases  of  disappointment  and  loss,  of  personal 
and  domestic  suffering,  and  even  desperation,  there  are  that 
will  never  meet  the  public  eye.  What  further  and  richer 
fields  yet  remain  unrevealed,  or  when  the  enterprise  may  be 
checked  up  by  sudden  and  unexpected  failures,  I  can  not 
divine.  Miners  and  others  will  form  their  judgments. 
The  problem  will  be  solved.  The  exploration  will  be  made, 
at  whatever  expense  of  money,  or  labor,  or  life  ;  embracing 
probably  hundreds  of  miles  of  the  mountain  range,  and 
occupying  years  to  come.  Should  the  stores  of  hidden  ore 
be  found  extensive  and  permanently  productive,  a  mighty 
tide  of  emigration  will  set  in ;  these  mountain  ranges, 
hitherto  dreaded  and  shunned,  as  only  a  barrier  to  social 
and  commercial  intercourse,  will  teem  with  hardy  and  enter- 


MINING   PROSPECTS.  441 

prising  inhabitants ;  a  State  Government,  and  perhaps 
several,  will  be  found  midway  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Pacific  ;  railway  facilities  will  be  demanded  with  an  urgency 
that  will  compel  their  construction,  despite  the  tardiness  of 
mercenary  legislation  ;  and  the  great  break  between  the  now 
disjointed  portions  of  our  continent  be  filled  up  ;  not  with 
an  agricultural  people,  for  the  country  will  not  admit  of 
this,  but  with  capitalists,  who  will  draw  their  needed  sup- 
plies from  the  agricultural  regions  most  contiguous,  creating 
a  counter-market,  enhancing  the  value  of  lands,  and  thus 
contributing  to  advance  the  general  prosperity.  The  pro- 
ceeds of  the  sales  of  public  lands,  hitherto  deemed  worthless, 
will  pay  again  and  again  for  constructing  all  the  railroads 
needed.  The  mining  business  will  assume  a  more  regular, 
systematic  form,  and  be  attended  with  more  uniform  if  with 
less  brilliant  results.  If,  on  the  contrary,  the  golden  de- 
posits should  prove  limited  and  unremunerative,  or  to  bo 
lodged  at  such  depths  and  screened  by  such  obstructions  as 
to  elude  the  keen  search  of  the  gold-hunter,  the  enterprise 
must  in  process  of  time  be  given  over,  and  these  Alpine 
wastes  be  again  consigned  to  the  roving  savage  and  the 
beast  of  prey. 

As  yet,  a  veiy  large  share  of  those  in  the  mines  have 
realized  nothing.  The  work  is  in  its  incipiency.  Nine- 
tenths  of  the  miners  are  just  commencing,  and  have  not  yet 
tested  the  fruitfulness  of  their  claims  nor  their  own  capacity 
to  manage  them.  The  many  are  stimulated  by  the  success 
of  the  few  ;  and  so  long  as  they  can  "  raise  the  color  "  they 
do  not  despond.  "The  gold  is  here/'  say  they,  and  each 
one  sees  no  reason  why  himself  should  not  be  the  lucky 
finder.  With  few  exceptions,  all  seem  in  good  spirits  ;  all 
speak  hopefully  of  their  claims.  Meanwhile  their  private 
stocks  of  provision  are  growing  less  and  less  daily.  Many 
have  no  money ;  and  upon  their  success  it  depends,  whether 
they  shall  have  means  to  return  home  or  to  Winter  here,  or 
whether  they  shall  be  unable  to  do  the  one  or  the  other. 

Not    every   man — not    every    industrious,    enterprising 


442  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

man — I  might  as  well  say  at  once,  not  one  man  in  twenty 
is  fit  to  be  a  miner;  for  to  all  the  qualities  of  mind  and 
body  requisite  for  success  in  other  business  pursuits  must  be 
added  the  invincible  perseverance,  the  almost  reckless  spirit 
of  adventure,  the  desperate,  hang-on  determination  to  hazard 
the  last  die  and  strain  his  luck  to  the  utmost — I  had  almost 
said,  of  the  gamester ;  not,  however,  confounding  moral 
aspects.  Were  I  a  miner,  I  would  stay  and  work  for  life. 
Were  I  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  peaceful  and  quiet  home,  or 
in  the  road  to  its  attainment,  I  would  stay  there  and  take 
the  surer,  safer  road  to  competence.  Not  a  few  have  fallen. 
A  grave,  now  and  then,  by  the  way-side,  with  simple  stake 
and  pencil  inscription,  marks  the  last  resting-place  of  some 
departed  husband,  father,  brother,  friend. 

A  tribute  is  especially  due  the  morals  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ain miners  in  one  particular.  "  Our  '  Creek  '  runs  '  Clear  ' 
on  the  Sabbath,"  said  one  to  me,  alluding  to  Clear  Creek, 
which,  with  its  tributaries,  supplies  the  sluices  and  washes 
the  products  of  the  mines.  Turbid  and  dark,  unfit  for  use 
during  the  six  working  days,  on  the  Sabbath  its  pure  and 
invigorating  current,  fresh  from  the  mountain  snows,  flows 
bright  and  silvery.  The  thousands  of  laborers  above  have 
suspended  their  toil  and  are  enjoying  a  season  of  rest  on 
God's  holy  day ;  like  the  Iron  City  standing  proudly  at  the 
head  of  the  noble  Ohio,  six  days  and  nights  belching,  forth 
its  flames,  and  with  its  dark  columns  of  smoke  enveloping 
the  whole  city  and  enshrouding  its  laborious  inhabitants  in 
gloom  at  midday,  but  on  the  dawn  of  the  Lord's  day  all 
these  clouds  swept  away,  and  the  sun  shining  brightly  on 
the  day  of  Sabbath  rest ;  thus,  as  I  have  said  to  them,  giv- 
ing them  one  reason  to  love  and  cherish  this  institution  of 
God  above  their  fellow-men  elsewhere. 

Whatever  may  be  said  of  other  aspects  of  the  case,  the 
Church  has  a  great  work  to  do  here.  That  point  is  settled. 
"A  great  door  and  effectual  is  opened" — "and  there  are" 
few  "adversaries" — suddenly,  mysteriously  opened,  and  it 
were'faithlessness  to  Christ's  cause  to  neglect  it.  Thousands 


OPEN  BOOK.  443 

are  here.  Thousands  more  are  coming,  whether  we  advise 
it  or  not.  They  all  have  souls,  all  are  the  purchase  of 
Christ's  blood,  all  traveling  to  the  bar  of  God.  Many  of 
them  are  our  brethren,  Christians,  Methodists ;  some  are 
humble  seekers  of  religion,  as  we^ave  cause  to  know  ;  some 
are,  even  there,  struggling  to  break  away  from  habits  of 
dissipation  and  rise  to  a  better  life.  They  are  accessible  as 
other  men,  nay,  in  some  respects  more  so,  from  the  peculiar 
circumstances  thrown  around  them,  if  rightly  approached. 
They  want  the  Word  of  Life.  They  must  have  it.  Let  none 
stand  at  a  distance,  coldly  calculate  the  cost,  and,  like  the 
miner  standing  on  his  claim,  ask,  "Will  it  pay  ?"  "  That 's 
none  of  your  business,"  said  Wellington  to  a  young  divine 
who  asked  his  opinion  as  to  the  probable  success  of  the 
British  missions  in  India  ;  "  your  business  is  to  obey  orders, 
and  your  orders  are  to  'go  into  all  the  world  and  preach 
the  Gospel.'  '  But  it  will  pay,  it  is  now  paying,  feeble  as 
is  the  beginning,  in  the  spiritual  edification,  improvement, 
and  perseverance  of  our  people  here,  in  saving  youth,  the 
children  of  the  Church,  from  destruction,  in  leavening  this 
rising  community  with  a  healthful  moral  and  religious  in- 
fluence. And  it  will  pay  eventually,  should  success  attend, 
in  remunerative  contributions  to  the  fund  that  has  aided 
them  in  the  hour  of  their  struggle,  for  miners  are  proverb- 
ially liberal.  More  men,  too,  will  be  wanted  for  the  work. 
Let  none  dread  the  distance  nor  the  privations  ;  there  are 
some  truly,  but  what  of  that,  even  though  mountains  of 
difficulty  were  in  the  way  of  the  salvation  of  souls  ?  I  find, 
however,  upon  a  near  approach,  that,  the  journey  once  over, 
the  actual  privations  are  fewer,  and  outward  comforts  and 
privileges  greater  than  I  have  found  in  any  one  of  my  pre- 
vious fields  of  frontier  labor  when  first  entered  upon.  Get 
ready,  then,  for  an  appointment,  and  let  your  name  be 
recorded  on  the  journal  of  the  first  session  of  "Rocky 
Mountain  Annual  Conference." 

From  Buckeye  Diggings  another  stretch  along  a  narrow 
defile,    overhanging   precipices    above,    deep   gulch    of  the 


444  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

stream  beneath,  and  we  leave  the  diggings  and  ascend  a 
high  rocky  summit ;  am  almost  un-muled  in  the  ascent ; 
back  off,  try  it  again  and  succeed.  Up  and  down  again, 
now  once  more  apparently  almost  in  reach  of  the  "  eternal 
snows ;"  the  clouds  to  which  we  are  wont  to  look  up  are 
seen  resting  beneath  the  mountain  brow  ;  then  descending 
into  a  deep,  dark  ravine,  we  at  length  enter  a  pleasant 
valley,  the  only  one  worth  the  name  that  I  have  seen  in  the 
mountains.  Another  reach,  and  the  noble  Platte  with  its 
embryo  cities  heaves  in  view.  Down,  down,  down,  .and  still 
down,  down,  further,  steeper,  more  sidelong,  fragments  of 
wrecks  by  luckless  teamsters,  yet  again  down,  down,  we  are 
in  Platte  Valley.  A  pleasant  ride  of  a  few  miles  brings  us 
into  camp,  weary  and  jaded,  minus  some  mule  flesh  and 
some  needful  articles  of  personal  equipage,  plus  some  lessons 
in  mountain  traveling.  But  other  duties  press  ;  unfinished 
as  the  "Trip  to  the  Mountains"  is,  the  pen  must  be  laid 
aside,  perchance  not  again  to  be  resumed  on  this  theme. 


"STATE  OF  JEFFERSON."  445 


LETTER     X. 

AGAIN    AT    CHERRY     CR  E  EK  —  P  A  S  S  I  N  G    INCI- 
DENTS—THE    CONVENTION— THE    ROUTE. 

A  MOMENTARY  leisure,  in  the  midst  of  many  engagements, 
enables  me  to  sketch  another  letter  while  seated  in  the 
room  of  the  Convention  now  in  session,  for  the  purpose  of 
forming  a  Constitution  for  the  "State  of  Jefferson."  I 
necessarily  pass  by  incidental  details  ;  removal  to  the  Platte, 
several  Sabbaths'  labors,  organization  of  one  more  quar- 
terly meeting  conference,  and  several  societies,  arrange- 
ments for  receiving  lots  in  both  the  towns  of  Denver  and 
Auraria,  on  which,  it  is  hoped,  temporary  houses  of  worship 
will  yet  be  erected  before  Winter ;  also  some  matters  of  a 
different  character ;  severe  disease  for  a  time  prevailing  at 
Gregory  Diggings,  with  considerable  mortality  ;  the  death 
of  one  man  by  the  sudden  falling  in  of  an  earthen  roof ;  sev- 
eral cases  of  accidental  shooting,  one  within  the  last  hour, 
of  designed,  from  a  revolver  in  the  hands  of  a  prominent 
and  talented  bloat,  though  taking  effect  upon  an  unintended 
person — some  abatement  from  the  moral  picture  of  society 
I  have  before  drawn — quite  a  sudden  run  of  mule-stealing ; 
the  safe  preservation,  thus  far,  of  our  own,  by  an  armed 
protection  every  night ;  with  all  that  succession  of  stirring 
incidents  which  keep  up  a  perpetual  frontier  excitement. 

This  is  the  sixth  day  of  the  session  of  the  Convention. 
Soon  after  assembling,  it  was  found  that  about  one-half  of 
the  members  were  opposed  to  the  effort  for  a  State  Govern- 
ment at  present.  As  a  compromise,  it  was  proposed  and 
agreed  to  go  on  and  form  a  State  Constitution,  which  should 
be  submitted  to  a  vote  of  the  people  on  the  first  Monday  in 
September,  and  at  the  same  time  should  be  submitted  a 


446  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

memorial  to  Congress  for  admission  as  a  Territory,  leaving 
the  sovereign  people  to  adopt  the  one  or  the  other,  and  Con- 
gress, of  course,  to  reject  both  if  they  choose.  The  effort 
for  a  State  I  think  premature,  and  there  are,  in  my  judg- 
ment, insuperable  barriers  to  its  present  success,  independ- 
ent of  the  smallness  of  their  population  ;  a  Territory,  I 
think,  they  ought  to  have  at  once,  the  wants  of  the  people, 
the  numbers  here,  and  the  growing  importance  of  the  com- 
munity fully  justify  the  measure.  The  opposition  to  Terri- 
torial organization,  by  the  "  State-men,"  arises  in  a  great 
degree  from  the  large  number  of  broken-down  politicians 
and  disappointed  office-hunters  already  here,  who,  they  fear, 
'with  good  cause,  may  be  forced  upon  them  in  the  shape  of 
Territorial  officers. 

The  Convention  is  composed  of  men  who,  in  point  of 
talents  and  moral  worth,  will  compare  not  unfavorably  with 
deliberative  bodies  in  the  States.  There  was  some  "noise 
and  confusion  "  in  the  organization,  but  not  more,  not  so 
much  as  is  often  witnessed  in  older  bodies— not  more  than 
might  have  been  expected  from  a  body  of  men  assembled 
for  the  first  time,  recently  brought  together  from  different 
sections,  most  of  whom  had  in  fact  never  seen  each  other 
before.  There  has  been  no  shooting,  stabbing,  fist-fighting, 
nor  serious  broil,  though  revolvers  and  dirks  are  a  part  of 
the  usual  equipage  of  the  country,  needlessly  so.  The  pro- 
posed organization  embraces  portions  of  Kansas,  Nebraska, 
New  Mexico,  and  Utah.  About  one  hundred  and  twenty 
delegates  are  in  attendance,  representing  parts  of  all  these 
Territories,  except  the  last  named.  The  Convention  will 
probably  close  its  labors  to-day.  I  am  their  Chaplain. 

The  mining  interest  continues  unabated.  New  discov- 
eries are  still  said  to  be  made,  and  numbers  are  called  away 
from  the  occupied  diggings  to  fields  of  yet  richer  promise. 
Large  reports  have  recently  reached  us  from  the  waters  of 
the  Colorado,  in  the  South  Park,  say  about  one  hundred 
miles  from  this  place.  The  interest  is  increased  by  the 
statement  that  a  company  of  prospectors,  Mexicans  and 


ROUTE  TO  THE  MINES.  447 

others,  had  recently  been  driven  out  by  the  Utah  Indians, 
using  no  violence,  but  simply  forbidding  mining  operations 
in  what  they  claim  as  their  country.  This  has  only  led  to 
higher  expectations,  and  five  hundred  are  said  to  be  already 
in  the  South  Park.  This  unsettled  state  of  things,  this 
running  to  and  fro,  will  probably  continue  till  time  shall 
have  developed  the  real  seats  as  well  as  the  extent  of  the 
golden  deposits. 

About  two  weeks  have  now  passed  since  our  second  en- 
campment upon  the  bank  of  the  South  Platte,  now  upon 
the  west  side,  a  few  miles  below  Denver.  My  days  are  spent 
mostly  in  the  town  and  my  nights  in  camp.  An  opportu- 
nity is  afforded  of  tasting  the  garden  vegetables  raised  here.- 
We  have  green  peas,  beans,  radishes,  etc.,  and  I  have  seen  a 
fair  prospect  of  melons  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  A 
supply  of  the  short-lived  Summer  vegetables  may  be  raised 
in  fertile  spots  on  the  river  and  at  the  mountain  base, 
but  the  latter  at  least  will  require  irrigation. 

A  word  with  regard  to  the  route  to  the  mines.  Mr. 
Greeley,  in  his  published  report,  gives  a  most  gloomy  ac- 
count of  his  route,  and  he  seems  to  regard  it  as  the  only 
one,  as  he  speaks  of  no  other.  He  says  in  substance : 
"  Nearly  every  pound  of  provisions  has  to  be  hauled  from 
Missouri  River,  some  seven  hundred  miles  distant,  over 
roads  which  are  mere  trails,  crossing  countless  unbridged 
water-courses,  always  steep  banked  and  often  miry,  at  times 
so  swollen  as  to  be  utterly  impassable  by  teams.  Part  of 
this  distance  is  a  desert,  yielding  grass,  wood,  and  water  only 
at  intervals  of  several  miles,  and  then  very  scantily."  This 
is  discouraging  enough,  but  the  misfortune  is,  Mr.  G.  got 
on  the  wrong  road,  simply  because  the  Express  Company 
took  him  there,  and  they  were  making  a  vain  effort  to  estab- 
lish a  new  route  to  serve  local  interests.  Even  they  soon 
had  to  abandon  it  and  betake  themselves  to  the  Platte  route. 
If,  in  his  next  trip,  Mr.  G.,  instead  of  stopping  at  Leaven- 
worth,  will  come  up  to  Plattesmouth  or  Oreapolis,  or,  if  he 
prefer  it,  to  Omaha  or  Nebraska  City,  we  pledge  ourselves 


448  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

to  "show  him  a  nearer  way,"  inside  of  six  hundred  miles 
from  Missouri  River — my  figures  make  it  five  hundred  and 
fifty-eight  from  Plattesmouth — with  plenty  of  wood  and 
water  from  Platte  River,  not  one  troublesome  stream  to 
cross,  and  as  fine  a  natural  road  as  perhaps  the  world  can 
furnish  of  the  same  length,  with  sufficient  grass,  and  fuel 
enough,  at  least  by  prudent  foresight,  to  avoid  that  most 
odious  and  disgusting  resort,  the  use  of  "buffalo  chips,"  in 
preparing  food.  We  went  through  without  using  a  chip, 
and  could  do  it  again  and  again. 

There  is  a  third  route  from  Kansas  City  and  Independ- 
ence, by  the  Santa  Fe  road  to  the  crossing  of  Arkansas 
River,  and  thence  up  that  stream,  affording,  I  doubt  not,  to 
persons  starting  from  Lower  Kansas,  and  places  in  that  re- 
gion, a  pleasant  and  good  passage.  But  for  those  who 
come  up  the  Missouri  River,  and  for  those  who  pass  over- 
land from  the  States  further  east,  I  have  no  hesitancy  in 
saying,  the  Platte  route  is  the  route.  The  choice  of  start- 
ing-points may  be  had  among  the  towns  above  named. 
We  crossed  at  Plattesmouth,  and  should  do  so  again. 
COVEKTION  ROOMS,  AUBARIA,  K.  T.,  AUGUST  6,  1859. 


SECOND  QUARTERLY  REPORT.        449 


RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATION. 

PIKE'S    PEAK    AND     CHERRY    CREEK     MISSION- 
SECOND    QUARTERLY    REPORT,     1859-60. 

REV.  J.  P.  DURBIN,  D.  D.,  CORRESPONDING  SECRETARY  OP  THE  MISSION- 
ARY SOCIETY  OP  THE  METHODIST  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH. 

DEAR  BROTHER, — Having  now  spent  some  time  within  the 
bounds  of  our  present  field  of  labor,  visited  all  the  promi- 
nent points,  and  made  myself  acquainted  with  the  state  of 
things  here,  I  think  it  best  to  send  you  a  second  quarterly 
report,  anticipating  somewhat  the  regular  order  of  time. 

My  last  informed  you  of  my  appointment,  preparations, 
and  being  on  the  Plains  on  our  way  out.  By  the  blessing 
of  God  we  arrived  in  due  season.  The  first  portion  of  our 
time  after  arrival  was  spent  upon  the  South  Platte  and 
Cherry  Creek,  in  Denver  City,  Auraria,  and  the  country 
around.  Thence  we  removed  our  camp  to  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  and  spent  some  weeks  in  the  mining  places  up 
the  mountains,  and  in  the  towns,  and  among  the  scattered 
population  at  their  base.  Eight  days  since  we  again  re- 
turned to  the  region  of  the  Platte,  where  we  now  remain. 
The  present  population  of  the  mining  district  is  variously 
estimated  at  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  thousand.  I  incline 
to  the  larger  number.  This  population  is  mainly  embraced 
within  an  area  of  fifty  miles  square,  two-thirds  of  whom 
are  in  the  mountains.  We  found  an  inviting  field  and  an 
eager  demand  for  ministerial  supply.  The  work  being  be- 
yond the  capacity  of  one  man,  I  have,  under  the  authority 
intrusted  me  by  the  Bishop,  divided  it,  organizing  two  sep- 
arate mission  fields  : 

1.  DENVER  CITY  AND  AURARIA  MISSION — Embracing  the 
two  places  indicated  in  the  name,  with  the  country  along 
the  South  Platte  on  both  sides,  the  country  up  Cherry 

38 


450  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

Creek,  the  towns  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  the 
Bowlder  Diggings  in  the  mountains.  We  have  organized  in 
this  field  a  quarterly  meeting  conference,  consisting  of  the 
preacher  in  charge,  three  stewards,  and  one  leader.  The 
membership,  so  far  as  ascertained  and  enrolled,  is  twenty- 
two.  The  mission  is  under  the  charge  of  Rev.  J.  Adriance, 
of  our  Conference,  who  accompanied  me  out  by  appointment 
from  Bishop  Scott.  His  post-office  address  is  Denver  City, 
Kansas  Territory. 

2.  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  MISSION — Embracing  all  the  mining 
region  in  the  mountains  except  Bowlder  Diggings.  Here  we 
have  organized  a  quarterly  meeting  conference,  consisting 
of  two  local  preachers,  an  exhorter,  and  three  stewards  ;  we 
have  also  formed  one  society  of  fifty-seven  members,  in- 
cluding probationers  just  received.  I  have  employed  Rev. 
G.  W.  Fisher  to  take  charge  of  this  mission.  Address,  the 
same  as  above. 

We  have  traveled,  preached,  administered  the  sacrament, 
held  social  religious  exercises,  and,  at  intervals,  have  pri- 
vately sought  out  our  membership  as  largely  as  practicable. 
Our  organization  of  societies  and  classes  is  necessarily  par- 
tial and  imperfect.  But  a  small  portion  of  our  actual  mem- 
bership in  the  country  is,  as  yet,  enrolled.  These  arc  to  be 
completed,  and  others  made  at  the  several  preaching-places. 
There  is  present  need  of  the  labors  of  at  least  two  more 
preachers,  but  they  are  not  at  hand ;  and  by  the  time  they 
could  reach  here  from  the  States,  the  mining  season  would 
be  almost  past,  and  with  it  the  most  favorable  season  for 
labor.  The  question,  however,  of  further  immediate  supply 
will  be  submitted  to  the  Bishops  at  the  meeting  of  the  Gen- 
eral Mission  Committee.  Meanwhile  the  brethren  named 
will,  with  local  aid,  supply  the  work. 

I  have  nothing  to  say  here  about  the  mining  operations 
in  this  district.  One  thing  is  certain,  the  enterprise  will 
not  be  abandoned  till  pushed  to  its  furthest  practical  test. 
This  may  require  a  term  of  years.  Should  the  mines  prove 
permanently  remunerative,  and  should  other  discoveries  be 


AN  OPEN  FIELD.  451 

made,  a  large  mining  community  will  be  located  here,  and 
probably  a  State  Government  formed  at  no  remote  period. 
Should  the  mines  ultimately  fail,  still  there  will  have  been 
for  years  a  heavy  population  here  demanding  the  bread  of 
life,  and  among  them  many  of  our  own  Church  members. 
So  that,  in  any  event,  a  large  field  of  missionary  enterprise  is 
here  opened  up,  calling  for  the  watch-care  and  guardianship 
of  the  Church ;  and  a  field  which,  in  the  event  of  success, 
will  be  highly  remunerative.  The  larger  portion  of  our 
membership  is  now  in  the  mines,  but  this  will  in  the  nature 
of  things  be  fluctuating.  We  expect  the  principal  seat  of 
our  permanent  labors  to  be  in  Denver  and  Auraria,  and  in 
the  towns  and  settlements  at  the  base  of  the  mountains. 

Liberal  offers  are  made  by  the  several  town  companies  of 
lots  for  church  buildings  and  aid  in  their  erection.  We  are 
taking  measures  to  secure  them. 

WM.  H.  GOODE. 

CAMP,  NEAR  DENVER  CITY,  K.  T.,  AUGUST  3,  1859. 


452  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZION, 


CONCLUSION. 

A  RESIDENCE  of  some  length  upon  the  frontier,  employed 
as  it  has  been,  has  afforded  some  facilities  for  observing  the 
actual  effect  of  missionary  labors  upon  the  inhabitants  of 
different  colors,  castes,  and  condition.  Extensive  changes 
in  condition  and  character  have  been  witnessed,  and  the  in- 
fluence exerted  by  missionary  effort  upon  these  several 
transitions  has  been  carefully  noted.  I  now  sum  up  the 
result  of  all  my  personal  observation  in  one  single  thought : 
the  deepened  and  increased  conviction  that  "the  mis- 
sionary cause  is  the  cause  of  God  ;"  a  conviction  resting 
not  solely  in  promises,  but  in  proofs  ;  in  results  actually 
worked  out  and  sufficient  to  fix  the  seal  of  Divine  ap- 
probation upon  the  missionary  enterprise.  A  few  closing 
suggestions  upon  the  condition  of  our  frontier  population, 
and  the  missionary  work  among  them,  may  not  be  out  of 
place. 

INDIAN   MISSIONS. 

The  work  of  Indian  missions  is  a  great  and  glorious 
work.  Actual  results  establish  this,  despite  all  the  hinder- 
ances  that  have  intervened. 

I  know  full  well  that  the  aboriginals  of  our  country  are 
poetically  represented  as  "a  doomed  race — fading  away 
before  the  breath  of  the  white  man,"  as  though  there  were 
something  pestilential  in  the  very  approach  of  our  race  to 
their  borders.  Not  so.  There  is  a  pestilence  ;  but  it  is  a 
moral  one.  They  are  "fading  away"  before  the  white 
man ;  but  it  is  before  his  oppression,  his  cruelty,  his  con- 
taminating vices.  It  is  vain  to  plead  Anglo-Saxon  destiny  ; 


INDIAN   POLICY.  453 

it  is  impious,  thus  incidentally,  to  claim  Divine  sanction  to 
violence  and  wrong. 

REMOVAL   POLICY. 

The  policy  adopted  by  our  Government  in  transferring  the 
Indian  tribes  east  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  west,  however 
desirable  to  the  whites  who  envied  them  in  the  possession 
of  their  lands,  was  extremely  severe  upon  the  Indians  them- 
selves. Great  numbers  perished,  as  already  seen,  in  the 
removal  or  soon  after.  A  fearful  decrease  in  numbers  fol- 
lowed, especially  in  the  large  tribes.  But  all  experience 
shows,  that  when  left  for  any  number  of  years  unmolested, 
under  the  fostering  care  of  the  Government  and  the  aid  of 
missionary  labors,  the  tendency  is  reversed  and  an  actual 
increase  is  seen. 

But  scarcely  are  they  settled  in  their  new  homes,  till  the 
avarice  and  cupidity  of  our  people  are  directed  to  the  new 
lands  assigned  them.  The  treaties  have  conveyed  the  right 
to  the  soil  in  perpetuity.  Terms  have  been  used  to  express 
to  their  minds,  in  the  strongest  manner  possible,  the  com- 
pleteness of  their  title,  and  the  assurance  that  they  should 
never  again  be  disturbed.  They  are  told  that  in  their  new 
home  they  shall  have  "all  the  laud,  and  all  the  trees,  and 
all  the  stone,  and  all  the  buffaloes,  and  all  the  elks,  and  all 
the  deer,  as  long  as  the  sun  shines,  and  leaves  grow  on  the 
trees,  and  water  runs  down  hill."  But  in  a  little  time 
they  are  forced  or  persuaded  into  new  treaties,  and  an- 
other removal,  and  subjected  anew  to  the  same  hardships 
and  exposure. 

GOVERNMENT    GUARDIANSHIP. 

The  guardianship  of  the  Government  is  necessarily  ex- 
tended over  the  Indian  tribes ;  but  this  has  been  exerted  in  a 
manner  that  has  prevented,  rather  than  encouraged  vigorous 
efforts  for  improvement.  The  common  occupancy  of  their 
lands,  with  no  individual  rights  to  the  soil,  has  discouraged 
labor ;  while  the  system  of  annuity  payments  has  led  to  a 


454  OUTPOSTS  OF   ZTON. 

feeling  of  dependence,  and  to  habits  of  idleness  and  prof- 
ligacy. Their  hardy  manhood  has  not  been  developed,  and 
they  have  been  taught  no  lessons  of  self-reliance. 

Add  to  this  the  extremely-pernicious  influences  to  which 
they  have  always  been  subjected  in  the  example  of  the  most 
abandoned  whites,  and  not  unfrequently  of  United  States 
agents  and  officers  stationed  among  them  ;  men  who  seek 
there  an  unlimited  range  of  licentiousness  and  crime,  which 
could  not  be  tolerated  in  white  society.  Combine  these, 
and  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  debasing  influences  to 
which  Indian  virtue  and  progress  have  been  subjected ;  a 
test,  perhaps,  quite  trying  enough  for  the  constancy  of  those 
claiming  to  be  civilized. 

It  is  not  denied  that  the  policy  of  our  Government  toward 
the  Indian  tribes  has  been  well-intended,  and  in  many 
respects  liberal.  Expenditures  have  been  freely  made.  But 
then,  these  efforts  have  been  ill-directed  and  subject  to  a 
thousand  caprices.  Instead  of  good  and  tried  men  in  the 
agencies,  there  have  been  constant  changes,  only  filling  the 
places  of  one  set  of  novices  and  blood-suckers  with  another 
of  the  same  character.  Every  new  incumbent  must  show 
his  competence  by  striking  out  some  new  theory,  which  at 
once  ignores  all  the  lessons  of  former  experience.  The 
funds,  appropriated  for  their  benefit,  are  either  fraudulently 
pocketed  or  frittered  away  in  idle  experiments  ;  so  that  little 
actual  advancement  is  made  through  Government  efforts. 

INFLUENCE   OF   M I S  S I 0 N A K I E S  . 

To  meet  and  to  resist  all  this  tide  of  corruption  and 
debasement,  the  only  available  influence  brought  into  exer- 
cise has  been  that  of  missionary  instruction  and  labor. 
True,  these  have  not  always  produced  the  desired  results, 
baffled  and  thwarted  as  they  have  been  by  intervening 
obstacles ;  but  enough  has  been  done  to  establish  the  mis- 
sionaries and  their  work  in  the  confidence  of  the  Indian 
tribes.  They  look  upon  the  missionary  as  their  friend  and 
protector.  No  better  evidence  of  this  is  needed  than  the 


HAPPY   RESULTS.  455 

inveterate  hatred  always  found  existing  toward  the  mis- 
sionaries among  the  class  of  whites  just  referred  to,  who 
find  their  fiend-like  purposes  of  lucre  or  of  lust  interfered 
with  by  the  kind,  protecting  care  of  the  missionary.  Enough 
has  been  done  to  demonstrate  to  the  Government,  and  to 
the  world,  the  salutary  effects  of  these  labors.  What  Indian 
tribes  have  made  most  progress  in  agriculture,  education, 
and  morals  ?  What  tribes  have  made  the  nearest  approach 
to  civilized  life,  and  are  now  advancing  most  rapidly  ?  In- 
variably those  that  have  been  favored  with  steady,  faithful, 
persevering  missionary  labor.  No  valuable  advancement 
has  been  made  without  this. 

NUMB BBS    SAVED. 

Still,  the  most  interesting  and  important  aspect  of  Chris- 
tian missions  among  the  Indian  tribes  remains  ;  that  which 
most  thrills  the  Christian  heart.  It  is  the  positive  religious 
benefit  conferred  ;  the  number  of  immortal  souls  purchased 
by  the  blood  of  the  Redeemer,  that  have  been  converted  and 
saved  through  Christian  instrumentality ;  the  thousands 
upon  thousands  that  have  already  landed  safely,  and  the 
thousands  more  that  are  on  the  way.  It  is  too  late  to  doubt 
the  reality  and  permanency  of  the  work  of  grace  upon  the 
Indian's  heart,  or  the  adaptedness  of  the  Gospel  to  Indian 
character.  Just  as  well  may  the  question  be  raised  in  refer- 
ence to  our  own  people  or  any  other  in  Christendom. 

A    PLEA    FOB   THE    INDIAN. 

And  suppose  we  yield  the  ground  assumed,  unwarrant- 
ably, I  think,  that  the  Indians  are  "a  doomed  race,"  soon 
to  be  extinguished,  is  there  not  a  still  stronger  motive 
presented  to  Christian  philanthropy,  to  seize  as  many  as 
possible  of  the  devoted  remnant  as  they  pass  and  plant 
them  as  jewels  in  the  crown  of  the  Redeemer  ?  The  appeal 
to  the  sympathies  and  efforts  of  the  Christian  world  is 
strengthened,  not  impaired,  by  the  reflection. 

Let  not,  then,  the  case  of  our  aboriginal  inhabitants  bo 


456  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

abandoned  as  hopeless.  Let  them  not  be  given  up.  While 
other  and  inviting  fields  even  among  our  antipodes  are 
eliciting  our  interest  and  effort,  still  let  the  pleading  voice 
of  our  predecessors  upon  this  free  soil  be  heard  upon  our 
borders  ;  though  it  be  but  the  last  wail  of  a  people  passing 
away  into  deep,  long  oblivion.  I  would  fain  plead  earn- 
estly. Let  the  Indian  still  have  our  prayers  and  our  labors. 

A     POLICY    SUGGESTED. 

A  suggestive  word  here,  in  reference  to  the  Indian  policy 
of  our  Government,  may  not  be  out  of  place  from  one  who 
has  not  -been  wholly  an  inattentive  observer.  That  changes 
might  be  made,  of  a  beneficial  character  to  the  Indians 
themselves,  and,  at  the  same  time,  lessening  the  immense 
burden  borne  by  the  Indian  Department,  can  not,  I  think, 
be  doubted. 

A  short  time  previous  to  my  second  removal  to  the  front- 
ier, I  had  a  traveling  interview  with  the  late  lamented  Hon, 
Samuel  W.  Parker,  then  a  member  in  Congress  from  Indi- 
ana. The  conversation  turned  largely  upon  the  policy  of 
our  Government  toward  our  Indian  tribes.  I  expressed 
some  views  on  the  subject,  founded  upon  personal  observa- 
tion and  experience.  Colonel  P.  desired  me  to  write  out 
and  publish  them  in  some  one  of  the  secular  papers.  I  did 
so  in  some  detail  in  a  series  of  numbers.  The  policy  pro- 
posed was,  in  its  leading  features,  the  same  as  that  since 
adopted  in  the  late  treaty  with  the  Wyandotts,  and  is 
equally  applicable  to  all  other  tribes  in  a  like  stage  of  ad- 
vancement. A  few  prominent  features  I  here  repeat,  limit- 
ing their  application,  however,  to  those  tribes  whose  present 
condition  is  such  as  to  admit  of  the  proposed  changes  : 

1.  Let  the  lands  now  held  in  common  be  equitably 
divided  among  all  the  members  of  each  tribe,  and  hence- 
forward held  in  severalty;  with  such  temporary  guards  and 
restrictions  on  the  power  of  alienation  as  may  be  necessary 
to  protect  the  young  and  incompetent  from  fraud  or  impo- 
sition. And  let  these  rights  be  confirmed  irrevocably. 


FEATURES  OF  PLAN.  457 

2.  Let  the  system  of  annuity  payments  be  discontinued, 
and  the  entire  amount  of  the  funds  of  each  tribe  be,  with 
their  own  consent,  applied  to  useful  public  objects  within 

»the  tribes ;  a  large  proportion  being  permanently  invested 
for  the  maintenance  of  an  educational  system  under  the 
direction  of  the  Missionary  Societies  of  the  different 
Churches  now  actually  laboring  among  the  Indians,  with 
a  strict  accountability  for  the  proper  expenditure  of  all 
funds  intrusted  to  them. 

3.  Let  the  laws  now  in  existence  be  strictly  enforced  to 
prevent  the  introduction  of  ardent  spirits ;  and  when  they 
are  defective  let  others  be  enacted. 

4.  Let  no  man  be  appointed  to  office  in  the  Indian  coun- 
try whose  character  is  such  as  to  disqualify  him  for  white 
society.     Let  the  places  be  filled  by  honest,  capable,  exem- 
plary men ;  and,  when  found  to  be  such,  let  them  be  con- 
tinued in  office,  that  the  benefit  of  experience  and  confidence 
of  the  tribes  be  not  forfeited.  Bancroft  Ubtffij 

5.  So  soon  as  a  sufficient  number  of  tribes  is  prepared 
for  the  measure,  let  them  be  formed  into  a  separate,  inde- 
pendent State,  and  admitted  to  the  Confederacy,  with  all  the 
rights,  privileges,  and  liabilities  of  other  States. 

Without  these,  or  some  similar  regulations,  no  fair  test 
can  be  made  of  the  practicability  of  improving  Indian  char- 
acter and  condition,  or  of  the  extent  of  their  capabilities. 
My  firm  judgment  is,  that  the  privileges  of  citizenship  might 
now  safely  be  granted  to  some  four  or  five  of  the  lead- 
ing South- Western  tribes,  say,  the  Choctaws,  Chickasaws, 
Cherokees,  and  Creeks,  amounting  to  near  one  hundred 
thousand,  and  a  State  at  once  organized.  If  memory  is 
right,  there  is  a  clause  in  the  early  treaties  with  some  of 
these  tribes,  guaranteeing  this  whenever  the  tribe  shall  be 
prepared  for  it.  Should  objections  be  made  on  the  ground 
of  present  unfitness,  and  tendency  to  amalgamation,  I  have 
only  to  point  the  objector  to  the  hybrid  races  that  are  now 
being  admitted  to  citizenship  in  the  Territories  of  the 
South- West,  less  loyal,  less  qualified,  less  virtuous,  and 

39 


458  OUTPOSTS    OF    ZION. 

with  whom    amalgamation   would   be   far   more    revolting 
than  with  our  better  class  of  Indians. 

MISSIONS    TO    FRONTIER    WHITES. 

Not  inferior  in  its  claims  upon  the  continued  attention 
and  fostering  care  of  the  Church  is  the  mission-field  pre- 
sented by  our  white  settlements  in  newly-formed  Territories 
on  the  frontier. 

PERIOD    OF    STRUGGLE. 

In  every  newly-formed  Territory  there  is  a  period  of 
struggle.  Lands  are  unpaid  for ;  houses  are  unbuilt ;  farms 
are  not  made  ;  no  income  is  realized,  and  the  little  pecu- 
niary means  brought  into  the  country  is  daily  becoming 
exhausted  in  obtaining  from  a  distance  indispensable 
supplies.  Exposure  produces  sickness,  and  often  the  man 
and  his  family  are  prostrated  the  first  year.  Crops,  on  new 
soil,  are  always  precarious.  Unanticipated  hardships  and 
privations  are  encountered,  which,  had  they  been  foreseen, 
would  have  effectually  prevented  a  removal.  Often  has  my 
heart  wept  with  them,  as  I  saw  the  indications  of  "  better 
days  "  gone  by. 

But  they  are  there  now.  Poverty  disables  some  from 
returning  to  their  former  homes ;  pride,  or  manliness,  for- 
bids it  in  others.  They  resolve  to  stay  and  weather  the 
storm  through  ;  but  could  their  former  friends  just  look  in 
upon  them  in  their  changed  condition  ;  the  rude,  comfort- 
less dwelling ;  the  coarse,  scanty  fare  ;  the  tattered  wardrobe  ; 
the  unclad,  unschooled  children  ;  their  very  inmost  sympa- 
thies would  be  stirred. 

A  TRUE   PICTURE. 

This  is  no  overdrawn  picture.  This  stage  is  actually  passed 
through  in  every  new  settlement.  This  is  the  way  that 
States  are  made  and  Conferences  are  formed  in  our  country. 
I  have  been  familiar  with  such  scenes  all  my  life.  In  one 
such,  now  a  garden  spot  of  the  Union,  more  than  half  a 


FILLING  THE   CHASM.  459 

century  ago,  I  took  my  earthly  existnece.  In  another,  a 
little  west,  I  witnessed  a  repetition  ;  and  now,  well-nigh 
a  thousand  miles  still  west  of  that  spot,  I  am  surrounded 
hy  the  same  scenes.  Thus  rapidly  is  our  h order  trans- 
ferred. 

But  how  comforting,  under  such  circumstances,  is  the 
approach  of  the  minister  of  the  Cross  !  How  precious  the 
means  of  grace  and  ordinances  of  God's  house !  What  so 
well  calculated  to  produce  contentment,  and  cheerfulness, 
and  courage  ?  Oft  have  I  exclaimed,  when  surrounded  by 
such  scenes,  and  yet  enjoying  the  privilege  of  a  wilderness 
sanctuary, 

"  There  's  mercy  in  every  place  ; 

And  mercy,  encouraging  thought, 
Gives  even  affliction  a  grace, 

And  reconciles  man  to  his  lot." 

The  actual  results  of  labor  in  this  field  have  already  been 
sufficiently  presented  as  illustrated  in  the  Territories  that 
have  occupied  our  attention.  The  same  results  are  found 
elsewhere.  Only  let  it  continue  and  spread  ;  let  it  widen 
and  deepen.  Let  the  now  struggling  brethren  of  the 
frontier  be  sustained  ;  and  let  every  new  Territory  formed 
be  the  object  of  immediate  care  and  effort,  till  able  to  sus- 
tain the  work  among  themselves  and  to  aid  in  rolling  the 
evangelical  tide  still  further  onward. 

SEND    THE    GOSPEL. 

The  mighty  chasm  is  about  to  be  filled ;  the  hitherto  dis- 
jointed portions  of  our  Republic  upon  the  shores  of  the  two 
oceans  are  about  to  be  united  by  a  chain  of  living  beings  ; 
the  mountain  recesses  are  to  teem  with  humanity,  and  the 
desert  vales  between  are  to  swarm  with  active,  moving 
myriads.  O,  if  amid  the  busy  din  of  worldly  excitement 
a  pleading  voice  can  be  heard,  let  it  be  raised  in  their  be- 
half!  Let  them  have  "  your  Gospel."  Let  the  standard  of 
the  Cross  be  planted  in  every  vale,  and  upon  every  mount- 
ain summit,  till  a  "chain  of  living  voices"  from  sea  to 


460  OUTPOSTS   OF  ZION. 

sea  shall  unite  in  the  loud  acclaim,  "Ho,  every  one  that 
thirsteth,  come  ye  to  the  waters  1" 

A    WORD    PERSONAL. 

And,  now,  a  closing  word  with  the  reader.  Near  ten 
years  of  itinerant  life,  embracing  a  portion  of  my  best  days, 
has  been  spent  in  the  work  of  frontier  missions,  a  work 
unsought,  undesired  by  me,  till  the  providence  of  God, 
through  the  constituted  authorities  of  the  Church,  indicated 
the  path ;  suspended  for  a  time,  when  secession  wrested  my 
field  from  its  lawful  and  proper  connection  ;  resumed  again, 
at  the  same  bidding,  when  a  new  and  necessitous  field  was 
opened  up,  and  continued  to  the  present  hour. 

"PATIENT    CONTINUANC  E." 

Some  hardships  have  been  undergone,  some  privations  en- 
countered, some  bereavements  endured ;  but  of  these  I  will 
not  speak.  Once  in  my  missionary  life,  I  learned  a  lesson 
from  a  brother  that  has  never  been  forgotten.  While  seated 
at  table  at  one  of  the  Presbyterian  missions  in  the  Indian 
country,  one  present  referred  to  a  remark  lately  made  in 
a  speech  before  the  American  Board:  "Privations  and 
difficulties,"  said  the  speaker,  "talk  of  these  being  endured 
by  us  !  We  never  lost  a  single  dinner  by  our  labors  in  the 
cause  of  Christ."  It  was  added  that  this  remark  would  not 
literally  apply  to  the  company  present.  "  Better  men  have 
suffered  more,"  was  the  calm  reply  of  a  brother  missionary 
whose  life  had  been  spent  in  the  work.  "I  looked  upon  it 
and  received  instruction. '* 

REVIEW. 

The  fields  of  labor  embraced  in  my  several  successive  ap- 
pointments, and,  to  a  great  extent,  actually  traveled  over 
and  occupied,  have  covered  a  large  area,  including  all  the 
region  between  Texas  on  the  south  and  the  extreme  Terri- 
torial settlement  in  Nebraska  on  the  north,  and  reaching 
from  the  State  lines  on  the  east  to  the  Eocky  Mountains 
on  the  west. 


NOTINGS  OF  THE   PAST.  461 

The  country  up  Bed  River  has  been  traversed  to  a  point 
seven  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  -region  upon  the 
Arkansas  has  been  explored  eight  hundred  miles  up ;  that 
upon  the  Missouri  one  thousand,  while  the  tributaries,  Kan- 
sas and  Great  Platte,  have  been  followed,  the  one  to  the 
junction  where  it  takes  its  name,  and  the  other  to  its  mount- 
ain sources. 

Nearly  every  military  post  has  been  visited,  and  almost 
all  the  mission  stations  of  every  denomination.  The  lands 
of  every  tribe  of  Indians  on  the  western  frontier,  and  many 
of  the  tribes  beyond,  have  borne  the  impress  of  my  feet, 
and  more  or  less  intercourse  has  been  had  with  them  all. 
The  white  settlements  have  been  explored  in  their  infancy 
and  watched  in  their  progress ;  and  an  acquaintance  has 
been  formed  with  all  the  phases  and  circumstances  of  front- 
ier life. 

In  the  course  of  these  labors,  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
from  the  States  east,  near  or  remote,  to  the  Territories 
west,  has  been  crossed  twenty-three  times,  by  different 
routes  and  modes  of  travel,  besides  the  amount  of  traveling 
in  the  Territories  themselves.  The  number  of  miles  trav- 
eled over  in  the  time  is  probably  not  less  than  sixty  thou- 
sand, in  about  five  thousand  of  which  my  family  have 
participated  in  their  necessary  removals. 

The  Gospel,  meanwhile,  has  been  proclaimed  to  devout 
worshipers  in  the  churches ;  to  statesmen  in  legislative 
halls  ;  to  delegates  in  Territorial  conventions ;  to  promiscu- 
ous crowds  in  court-rooms  and  hotels  ;  to  soldiers  in  bar- 
racks, and  to  camps  of  armed  men  ;  to  the  thoughtless  and 
dissipated  in  saloons ;  to  emigrants  in  coralle,  and  to  miners 
upon  the  mountain  sides  ;  to  savages  around  their  council- 
fires,  and  to  slaves  upon  the  cotton  plantations  of  the 
South. 

CHANGES    WITNESSED. 

Great  and  unanticipated  changes  have  taken  place  within 
this  period.  New  communities  have  been  organized,  and 


462  OUTPOSTS   OF   ZION. 

lands  which,  when  first  I  passed  over  them,  would  not,  I 
supposed,  for  half  a  century,  if  ever,  be  the  abodes  of  white 
men,  are  now  teeming  with  population.  The  border  has 
been  transferred  a  thousand  miles  westward.  An  empire 
has  sprung  up,  and  more  than  a  hundred  thousand  white 
inhabitants  are  found  where,  less  than  a  score  of  years  ago, 
I  preached  to  Indians  only,  save  the  few  whites  officially 
tolerated  among  them. 

Three  entire  Conferences  west  of  the  State  lines  have 
sprung  up,  and  contingent  provision  is  made  for  a  fourth, 
in  the  formation  of  each  of  which  it  has  been  my  privilege 
to  bear  a  part. 

I  have  witnessed  much  of  the  outbreakings  of  sin,  and 
have  seen  some  violence  and  bloodshed.  Many  of  the  con- 
tacts of  life  have  been  rugged.  The  scene  has  often  been 
stormy,  and  the  skies  sometimes  deeply  overcast. 

I  have  seen  and  marked  the  workings  of  Christianity  in 
its  personal  effects  upon  the  great  and  small,  the  statesman, 
the  military  officer,  the  common  soldier,  the  white  settler 
and  his  family,  the  miner,  the  Indian,  the  African  slave, 
and  the  prisoner  awaiting  his  doom  under  the  law.  I  have 
seen  its  power  exhibited  in  living  and  dying  examples. 

Shall  I  forbear  to  add  —  I  have,  I  humbly  trust,  realized 
its  supporting  power  under  all  life's  changes,  and  often  ex- 
perienced that 

"  God  is  ever  present,  ever  felt, 
In  the  void  waste,  as  in  the  city  full, 
And  where  he  vital  breathes  there  must  be  joy." 

Nor  have  its  Divine  consolations  been  wanting,  when,  to 
human  appearance,  it  has  seemed  that  there  might  be  but 
a  "  step  between  me  and  death. " 

RESULT. 

The  result  of  all  is  strengthened  conviction  of  the  power 
and  divinity  of  our  holy  religion,  increased  love  for  that 
system  of  religion  that  is  provided  for  all,  adapted  to  all, 
offered  to  all,  with  a  growing  and  burning  desire,  if  the 


MY   COMPANIONS   IN    LABOE.  463 

Lord  will,  to  penetrate  yet  further  into  the  "  regions  be- 
yond," and  still  to  plant  the  standard  of  the  Cross  upon 
some  new  soil. 

Itinerancy  !  with  all  thy  toils,  "I  love  thee  still." 
Life  thus  far  may  have  been  spent  unprofitably  ;  it  has 
not  been  spent  idly  or  inactively.  "Chief  of  sinners" — 
"least  of  saints" — "not  meet  to  be  called"  a  minister 
of  the  Lord  Jesus — sums  up  the  experience  of  the  past  and 
the  present.  "Patient  continuance  in  well-doing"  is  the 
purpose  for  the  future. 

Happy !  should  I  fall  at  home,  surrounded  by  loved  ones, 
or  on  some  vale,  or  in  some  mountain  gulch,  alone,  unseen, 
unwept.  Happy !  if  I  may  but  fulfill  my  mission  and 
meet  the  "well-done"  of  the  Judge.  Happy!  yea,  thrice 

happy, 

"  If,  with  my  latest  breath, 
I  may  but  gasp  his  name, 
Preach  him  to  all,  and  cry  in  death 
'  Behold  1  behold  the  Lamb  I'  " 

TRIBUTE    TO    F E L L 0 W - L A B 0 R E RS  . 

Neither  personal  feelings  nor  sense  of  duty  will  allow  me 
to  close  without  a  brief  tribute  to  the  moral  and  religious 
worth  of  the  three  young  men  who  successively  have,  by 
appointment  of  the  Bishops,  accompanied  me  upon  my 
different  fields  of  labor — Revs.  Henry  C.  Benson,  James  S. 
Griffing,  and  Jacob  Adrian ce.  More  fortunate  selections 
could  not  have  been  made.  In  the  very  intimate  relations 
necessarily  sustained  by  us,  our  intercourse  has  been  confi- 
dential and  our  co-operation  cordial.  ^Ve  have  consulted, 
labored,  prayed,  wept,  and  rejoiced  together.  Cheerfully 
have  they  borne  their  part,  and  often  have  they  lightened, 
by  participation,  my  own  burdens.  Never  have  I  witnessed 
in  any  of  them  the  slightest  deviation  from  strict  moral 
integrity  or  entire  devotion  to  his  calling. 

They  are  still  in  the  active  field.  The  first,  after  nearly  a 
score  of  years  of  active  service,  is  now  traveling  a  district 
in  California  as  presiding  elder ;  the  second  is  still  toiling 


464  .  OUTPOSTS   OF    ZION. 

on  the  plains  of  Kansas,  and  the  third  is  yet  laboring  with 
the  miners  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  can  hardly  be  that  we  all  shall  meet  again  on  earth. 
They  may  "  increase  " — "  I  must  decrease."  May  the  God 
of  all  grace  preserve  them ;  and,  in  the  great  day  of  final 
reckoning,  may  they  each  return  "with  rejoicing,  bringing 
his  sheaves  with  him  !" 


THE       END. 


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